The Coast & Heaths Area of Outstanding Landscapes Outstanding Natural Beauty The Suffolk Coast & Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) is one of Britain’s finest landscapes. It extends from the Stour estuary in the south to the eastern fringe of and then north to . The AONB was designated in 1970 and covers 403 square kilometres. It is a diverse and ever changing landscape which includes low-lying coast of shingle and sand, ancient woodland, forest, lowland heaths, farmland, valley meadowlands, estuaries with saltmarsh and Walk Guide intertidal flats, marshes with reedbeds and wooded fens, and historic towns and villages.

The Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB is a partnership of organisations which works to conserve and enhance the area’s natural beauty by encouraging sympathetic, sustainable use. AONBs are part of the UK’s “family” of protected areas that includes National Parks and Heritage Coasts. All receive special protection because of their quality and importance.

Explore a mosaic of unique landscapes including reedbed, woodland, heathland, marsh and shingle coast, which sustain a large diversity of wildlife.

1 2 Suffolk Coast National Nature here since at least the 14th century. The Walberswick Highlights Reserve. Managed by Natural , manor once sat in 240 acres of parkland this reserve offers a mosaic of habitats which is now farmland. In the 16th century including one of the largest reedbeds in John Brooke inherited the house. He was Britain; grazing marsh; hay meadows; nicknamed The Great Troubler due to his heathland; woodland; intertidal mudflats constant meddling in local affairs including This Outstanding Landscape and its wildlife wildlife and geological sites, supporting and the Blyth estuary. The landscapes enclosing the Common Land and his harsh is part of a network of habitats that are plants and animals that are rarely that we see here today continue to treatment of his servants. He passed away considered rare and significant, and are found elsewhere. All SSSIs are legally evolve as they have done over the at the age of 26 and his ghost, sometimes the reason for the Area of Outstanding protected under the Wildlife and centuries due to the changing coastline on horseback, is said to haunt the area. Natural Beauty (AONB) designation. Countryside Act 1981. and different land use by man. Within the AONB are many site-specific Special Area of Conservation (SAC) 4 Westwood Marshes The footpath conservation designations, helping this – strictly protected sites designated 3 Westwood Lodge is an interesting takes you through open areas of reeds remain an Outstanding Landscape, for under the European Habitats Directive, large manor house with a turret. and Blackthorn scrub. It is a great place now and future generations. The area to protect listed habitats types and Although the present building dates from to listen for birds including the Cetti’s around Walberswick includes four of these species. the 16th century, a manor has stood Warbler with its distinctive loud bursts designations: The wetlands are of international of song and male Bitterns booming in Special Protection Area (SPA) –strictly importance especially as a waterfowl habitat the spring. Look out for Marsh Harriers protected sites classified for rare and and are therefore listed as a Ramsar Site. displaying in the sky. This large and rare vulnerable birds. You can help to protect these habitats and harrier breeds here feeding on small birds Site of Special Scientific Interest their wildlife by remaining on Public Rights and mammals. Bearded Tits can be seen, (SSSI) – represent the country’s best of Way and clearly signed permissive paths usually flying rapidly across the top of a and by not allowing you or any dogs to reedbed. The beard is in fact a ‘moustache’ cause disturbance at any time of the year. and part of the male plumage. They are Please follow the countryside code and any sociable and noisy, their ‘ping’ calls often information signs displayed. being the first clue to their presence. Many species of wildfowl rely on the food, shelter 1 Walberswick. The ever changing and breeding grounds here including the B fortunes of Walberswick are profoundly rare Gadwall, Teal, Shoveler and Greater dictated by coastal change and tidal flooding. In the 14th century Walberswick’s wealth increased when storms destroyed much of the port at and at the same time a new river channel was forged directly out to sea at Walberswick. The town was able to thrive on trading with Europe, fishing and shipbuilding, but declined as the river silted up. The church of St Andrew fell into decay so was partly dismantled and restored as the smaller church that now stands within the ruins of A its previous structure. C 3 4 harsh environment but they can easily be destroyed by trampling and the adverse Around the Marshes with the option of effect from dog poo & BBQs. going through the reedbed or the forest. 6 is owned by the Forestry Commission (FC) who purchased what was once heathland for a plantation Start: Public Toilets, near the village during the 1920s. During WW1 Britain hall, Ferry Road, Walberswick IP18 6TU. realised that its dwindling timber stocks TM498746 would not be able to cope with demand Walking distances and times: and imports could not be relied upon. Much timber was required for pit props in Route via the reedbed: 7.6miles/12.2km D mines whose coal supplied heavy industry. Route via the forest:8.3miles/13.3km The forest is now managed jointly with the Allow 4hrs to enjoy each walk. white-fronted goose. The route through FC, and the RSPB, Terrain: Mostly flat. Routes the reedbed is a fantastic place to see and a rewilding programme is underway to G dragonflies in the summer. follow Public Rights of Way, including transform the pine plantation into a mosaic footpaths, bridleways and byways and of broadleaved woodland and heath. Some left towards the coast. The iconic dome 5 Vegetated Shingle is the term for also permissive paths, with boardwalks of the conservation work is done by a herd of B, the UK’s only pressurised a beach with shingle stable enough to in places. of Dartmoor ponies that graze the forest to water reactor (PWR) nuclear power support vegetation. These rare and fragile create and maintain open areas. This route Caution: There is a 1 mile (1.6km) station, can be clearly seen from here. habitats are seldom found outside North offers plenty of opportunities for fantastic stretch along a quiet road. Routes can At the corner of a field bear right and West Europe, Japan and New Zealand. views over the marshes and out to sea, be very muddy in places. then keep straight ahead. On reaching a Plants are specially adapted to conditions welcome shade in the summer and hosts of T-junction turn left onto a bridleway. Bear where there is no butterflies enjoying the bramble bushes. Start at the toilets. Take the footpath (FP) right when you emerge from the avenue of soil, it is very windy between the toilets and the dyke which runs trees and out onto the Oldtown Marshes. and salty and there parallel to the beach huts in the distance. At a WWII Pill Box bear right and then turn is little fresh water. The FP bears right at the start of a caravan left at a T-junction of paths. At the next Yellow Horned park. It then bears left at the bottom of junction bear right. From this high point Poppy has waxy a set of steps. At a junction of paths turn enjoy the views over the nature reserve. leaves and fine hairs that restrict water loss and act as a sunscreen; E Sea Pea grows very low to the ground to avoid the wind and its seeds can survive F for 5 years in the sea and Sea Kale has long thick tap roots to reach freshwater and leaves that reflect sunlight. These Front Cover) Walberswick Windpump in winter; A) Walberswick Green; B) Looking south over the marsh; plants are protected under the Wildlife and C) View from Westwood Lodge; D) Bearded Tit © FLPA; Countryside Act 1981 and must not be E) Sea Pea on Shingle Beach; F) White Admiral butterfly in I picked, they have adapted to survive this Dunwich Forest. 5 6 The path gently undulates and winds through an area of scrub woodland and Route through the reedbed then emerges onto a boardwalk to cross Continue straight ahead towards the the reedbed. At a T-junction of paths turn trees. The FP takes you through an right and continue straight ahead. After area of wet woodland with Willow and approx. 200m take the FP on the right, Alder trees along a boardwalk and then across a boardwalk through the reeds through dryer Birch and Oak woodland and then turn left onto a bridleway. On before emerging into the reedbed. On reaching a dirt track bear right and head reaching a flood defence wall turn left and then immediately right. Do not towards the road. This track is used by K local reedcutters to access the marshes linger on the wall as this disturbs and cut reeds for thatching; the areas the birds which may lead them to reedbed. On reaching a gravel track where shingle vegetation. Follow the path along cleared of reeds provide pools for abandoning chicks or interferes the St Helena trail turns right you turn left, the river towards the wind pump. bitterns and herons to feed on fish and with them feeding. At a T-junction towards a cottage. Pass through the gate on The wind pump was built in the 1800’s amphibians. Turn of paths turn left to walk past the old the right of the cattle grid. At a T-junction of and was used to drain the salt marshes left along the road wind pump. tracks, turn left onto a FP. You now join the and grind feed for horses; it was burnt to join a stretch of . This is a long distance out in the 1960’s. Just past the wind the Route through Dunwich route of 60 miles between and pump turn right to cross a bridge, keeping (SW). This is long which is marked by blue and the river on your right towards the coast. distance route of Forest yellow discs. You follow this route as far as Follow signs for coast path and at a 60 miles from Turn right at the start of the Birch trees to the beach huts in Walberswick. High points T-junction of paths turn right. Cross over Ipswich to remain on the SW. Pass through a gate along the track give views of Dunwich the river at the bridge. Ascend the shingle with a cattle grid. and the sea as well as the marshes and ridge and turn left to head north back which explores At this point continue straight ahead to join Walberswick Church. The small woodland H towards Walberswick. Turn left just in front what remains of is worth a visit in spring to see the wild the St Helena Trail, which is marked with of the beach huts, cross back over the river the once extensive Sandlings Heaths. Daffodils. white and orange discs, through the north and turn right to follow the track back to A grass car park area on the left offers section of Dunwich Forest. When the St Pass through a gateway and after 200m bear the public toilets. lovely views. The metalled road becomes a Helena Trail splits, turn left. When the trail right, this path will lead you out onto the gravel track and Byway. Turn left through turns right you can take a short detour reedbed. At a T-junction of paths turn left. G) Look out for Dragonflies like this Common Darter; a kissing gate and immediately right onto to the left and discover the hide, a great Some areas of the shingle beach ahead H) Sandlings Walk Sign; I) Sunlight through Birch trees; J) Walking on the St Helena Trail; K) Looking north the FP. This area is grazed by Highland place for wildlife watching. The path winds of you are fenced off in the summer over the marsh; L) Walberswick beach huts and view of cattle to maintain the acid grassland so up a gentle slope with fine views across the to protect the nesting Little Terns and Southwold. please stay on the FP and keep dogs on leads. The path leads through a damp woodland area and then back onto the byway through a kissing gate on the right. Before reaching a car park turn left at the SW waymarker post.There are now two options to proceed. Both routes converge at a junction of FP’s before the wind pump. J L 7 8 Key 1

Route through the reedbed Route through Dunwich Forest Suffolk Coast Path/Sandlings Walk Byway open to all traffic Footpath Bridleway 5 Hide

Wind pump 3 1 ‘Highlights’ location

2 Countryside Code Route through the reedbed Route through the reedbed Please follow the Countryside Code Route through Dunwich Forest Route through Dunwich Forest www.gov.uk/government/ Public Footpath Suffolk Coast Path/Sandlings Walk Restricted Byway Byway open to all traffic publications/the-countryside-code Long Distance Route 4 Bridleway Footpath Respect other people: Byway Bridleway consider the local community National Cycle Route Hide and other people enjoying the

Wind pump outdoors 4 leave gates and property as you 6 1 ‘Highlights’ location Dunwich Forest find them and follow paths. Protect the natural environment: leave no trace of your visit and Route through the reedbed & Lowestoft; you can then walk to This guide was funded in 2016 by the Coastal take your litter home Route through Dunwich ForestCommunities Fund which is managed locally by Suffolk Visiting Walberswick Walberswick (30mins). fires can devastate wildlife, Public Footpath Coastal District Council on behalf of The Suffolk Coast Destination Management Organisation (DMO). The habitats and property – so be Ordnance Survey Connecting communities:Restricted BywayThis is a guide and Rights of Way improvements on this route careful with naked flames and Explorer Map No. 231 (Southwold local book in advanceLong travel Distance service Route were undertaken by the Suffolk Coast & Heaths Area of cigarettes at any time of the year and ). which links to publicBridleway transport Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and Suffolk County Council. keep dogs under close control 01728 635938. Byway Walberswick is at the end of the Disclaimer: Whilst the Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB have National Cycle Route made every effort to ensure the accuracy of maps and at all times, especially when B1387 and approximately 3miles/5 Nearest train station . information within this publication, they are provided as amongst livestock and during bird km from the A12 at . www.nationalrail.co.uk Tel: guidance only and we cannot accept any liability for their nesting season. Release your dog interpretation and use. 08457 484950 Ferry Road pay & display - IP18 6TU; Maps based on Ordnance Survey Copyright mapping. if chased by cattle. Wherever you Harbour pay & display - IP18 6TJ. All rights reserved. Unauthorised reproduction infringes are, clean up after your dog. Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB Crown Copyright. Suffolk County Council Licence Public transport information: T: 01394 445225 No.100023395 2016. Enjoy the outdoors: Unless credited to FLPA all photographs by Lynda and plan ahead and be prepared www.suffolkonboard.com or call E: [email protected] Robin Gilbert. 0345 606 6171. Local buses serve W: www.suffolkcoastandheaths.org follow advice and local signs. Designed by: Southwold from , 9 10