Day 2 Starts Early at the National

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9 The Best of D.C. in his full-day tour guides you through The Mall and Georgetown— Tthe two parts of the District you must experience before leaving town, despite the fact that Georgetown is slightly off the public transportation grid. Both attract visitors in droves for good reason, so don’t feel like a lemming if you end up following kids in matching T-shirts as you explore The Mall’s free monuments and museums and then the cobblestone sidewalks of M Street in Georgetown. START:

Metro to Foggy Bottom, then a 30-minute walk, or take Tourmobile One Day

“government of the people, by the Travel Tip people, for the people shall not I recommend exploring the monu- perish from the earth.” @ 30 min. ments on foot, but those who y 202/426-6842. www.nps.gov/linc. can’t might consider Tourmobile Free admission. Metro: See start, (y 888/868-7707). The red, white, above. and blue sightseeing trams travel 2 Vietnam Veterans Memo- in a loop around the monuments, rial. In Constitution Gardens, “The passing by every 15 to 30 minutes. Wall,” honors the 58,000 service- One fare is good for the day ($20 for men and -women who perished or passengers 12 and up, $10 for kids disappeared during the Vietnam 3–11). National Park Service rangers War. Two black slabs of granite are on duty around all the following seem to grow from the earth toward monuments daily 8:30am–11:30pm each other, rising in height and join- (except Dec 25). ing to form a “V.” Designed in 1980 by Maya Ying Lin, then an under- 1 Lincoln Memorial. Start your graduate at Yale, it has been likened day at 8:30am, on the steps of this to a “scar in the earth,” evoking the iconic tribute to Abraham Lincoln, deep division the war created the beloved 16th president of the United States. Architect Henry The Lincoln Memorial. Bacon designed this marble, Greek temple–inspired memorial in 1914. Its 36 Doric columns suggest the states of the Union at the time of Lin- coln’s assassination in 1865—days after the Southern states surren- dered the Civil War. Daniel Chester French designed the nearly 20-foot- tall (6m) sculpture of Lincoln, seated in solemn repose, surrounded by inscriptions of his immortal words from the Gettysburg address and his second inaugural address. You’ll likely feel chills as you contemplate Lincoln’s “dedication to the proposi- tion that all men are created equal,” as you gaze across The Mall and its tributes to the many who “gave the last full measure of devotion” so that 05_049014 ch01.qxp9/11/069:07AMPage10 10 The Best Full-Day Tours nps.gov. 967-2283 Bottom, thena25-min.walk. vive. Free admission.Metro: Foggy then a10-min.walk. open untilnoon.Metro: Smithsonian, 9am–4:45pm. ClosedDec25;July4th 6841. www.nps.gov/wash. Daily fee. For reservations, call usually goneby9am),for a$1.50 advance for reservations (tickets are free butrequired for entry. Callin views ofthecapitalcity. Tickets are the observatory, withitsbreathtaking city. Ifyou can,re visible from pointsthroughout the when itwas builtin1884,it’s still world’s structure tallestmasonry President George Washington. The tall (169m)monumenttohonor Millsdesignedthis555-foot- Robert 3 y husbands, andwives. sons, daughters, brothers, sisters, bings andleave flowers for theirlate familiessilence, mourning trace rub- into thereflective stone.Inreverent the deadandmissingare inscribed among Americans.Thenamesof The VietnamVeterans Memorial. 202/426 Washington Monument. @ or gotohttp://reservations. - 20 min. 6841. www.npa.gov/ serve aticket to y @ 202/426 20 min. y 800/ - www.nps.gov/frde. Free lives for it, farlives from for home. it, the menandwomen whogave their a war forgotten bymany, andhonors pleted in1986,itreminds viewers of battle gear, isahauntingone.Com- flowing rain capes,helmets,and through afield,dressed inidentical than-life ground soldiers slogging nian, witha25min.walk. West, Federal Triangle, orSmithso- com. Free admission.Metro: Farragut y 4 6 y 5 Bottom, thena30-min.walk. kowa. Free admission.Metro: Foggy more. sionately politicalwife, Eleanor;and president inhiswheelchair;pas- alongside sculptures ofsouplines;the showcases FDR’s mostfamous quotes sents thechallengesoftimeand presidency:term repre- Each gallery of Franklin DelanoRoosevelt’s four- completed in1997),ittellsthestory by Lawrence Halprinin1978(and and muchofWorld War II.Designed U.S. through theGreat Depression celebrates themanwhosaw the four outdoorrooms, orgalleries, (3-hectare) outdoormemorialwith fighting from 1941to1945. for the400,000Americanswhodied gold stars ontheFreedom Wall stand to enterthewar. The 4,000sculpted states andterritoriesintheirdecision lars thatrepresent theunityof bronze andgranite, itfeatures 56pil- or Washington Builtof Monument. ing theviews oftheLincolnMemorial completed in2004—withoutobstruct- altered, thisserene memorialwas naysayers want whodidn’t TheMall fought anddiedinWorld War II,and to “thegreatest generation” that between activistsdemandingatribute Memorial. Memorial. 202/426 202/426 National World War II Korean War Veterans FDR Memorial. @ 20 min. - - 6841. www 6841. www.nps.gov/ After controversy The imageof19larger- y 202/426 This 7 .wwiimemorial. admission. @ @ 1 - ⁄ 2 6841. 20 min. -acre 20 min. 05_049014 ch01.qxp 9/11/06 9:07 AM Page 11

11 The Best of D.C. in scientist, politician, musician, diplo- mat, and inventor. Dedicated in 1943, it features a 19-foot-tall (5.7m) bronze statue of Jefferson inside. @ 20 min. y 202/426-6841. www.nps.gov/thje. Free admission. Metro: Smithsonian, then a 25-min. walk.

8 Pavilion Café. It’s tough to One Day know where to find a quick bite to eat amid so many museums and government buildings. The Pavilion Café, in the National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden, has a solid, kid-friendly menu of salads, sand- wiches, espresso drinks, and baked goods. Dine outdoors on warm The Korean War Veterans Memorial. days, or admire the ice-skating rink when it’s cold, from inside. @ 45 Metro: Smithsonian, then a 30-min. min. 9th St. and Constitution Ave. walk. NW. y 202/289-3360. $2.50–$7.75. Mon–Thurs and Sat 10am–7pm; Fri 7 Jefferson Memorial. Modeled 1–9pm; Sun 11am–7pm. after the Pantheon in Rome, this circular colonnaded structure sits before the picturesque Tidal Basin— 9 National Gallery of Art. If which is lined with cherry trees that you visit only one of the city’s free burst with rosy color in late March art museums, make it this one, through mid-April. Architect John founded in 1937. Its permanent col- Russell drew from Thomas Jefferson’s lection spans 9 centuries of master- love of neoclassical design to cele- works: early Italian and Flemish brate the third president’s contribu- Renaissance paintings, including the tions as a renowned architect, single Leonardo da Vinci painting in

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12 Full-Day Tours Full-Day The Best

John Singer Sargent’s Nonchaloir (Repose), at the National Gallery.

the U.S.; the High Renaissance summer of 2008. For those who works of Titian; the Dutch interiors wish to immerse themselves for an of Vermeer; the pre-Impressionist afternoon or a day, see chapter 3. and Impressionist works of Monet, @ 1 hr. See p 42, bullet 4. Manet, van Gogh, Degas, Toulouse- ! Café Milano for dinner. Lautrec, Gauguin, and Cézanne; After touring The Mall, hail a cab and the modern masterpieces of and head for historic Georgetown, Picasso, O’Keeffe, Johns, and Pol- lock, to name a few of the artists Filippo Lippi’s Portrait of a Youth, at the represented. Art lovers may want to National Gallery. clear out the day to wander these halls. Everyone else, allot 2 hours before heading to the National Museum of American History, your next stop. @ 2 hr. See p 60 for service details. 0 National Museum of Ameri- can History. Want to see the original Kermit the Frog hand pup- pet? How about a Civil War uniform, the flag that inspired “The Star Spangled Banner,” a nugget from the California Gold Rush, or Muham- mad Ali’s boxing gloves? America’s history is told through objects, art, advertising, communications, and song at this popular museum that is now undergoing extensive renovations, due for completion in the 13 The Best of D.C. in One Day See 202/456- y at the eastern end behind its imposing at 15th and E streets (daily at 15th and E streets Federal Reserve Building, Reserve Federal National Museum of American History. National Museum of American Muhammad Ali’s boxing gloves, at the gloves, boxing Muhammad Ali’s p 164 for service details. p 164 for National Zoo, where Day 2 begins, Day National Zoo, where is close to the Dupont Hotel Madera access fast-morning for Metro, Circle stop. This Park-Zoo to the Woodley pet-friendly boutique hotel features high-tech guest well-appointed, with nice touches such as rooms See chapter 10 animal-print robes. other lodging options. for White House, 1–6 months in advance; 1–6 months in advance; 6183. U.S. Capitol Building, - and the more information. more 202/333 Halfway White Elephants 3251 Prospect St.3251 Prospect y White House Visitor Center, 5555. www.bluegindc. - 202/452-3324; Billing itself as a “boutique y ). The Hotel Madera. Blue Gin for after-dinner Blue Gin for 202/965 Washington” on p 28 for on p 28 for Washington” Entrees $14–$42. AE, DC, DISC, MC, Entrees 11am–11pm; Wed–Sat Sun–Tues V. Bot- 11am–midnight.Foggy Metro: tom or Roslyn. # @ NW (at M St.). 1206 Wisconsin Ave. y home of the wealthy, the preppy, home of the wealthy, Rub shoulders and the powerful. with Botoxed at Café Milano senators, socialites, back-slapping at the lively playboys and European a meal of for bar scene. Or sit down middling-to-good Italian fare—if 7 can get a table. See chapter you options. other for nightclub and lounge,” this posh, if nightclub and lounge,” this hot spot is pretentious, somewhat hand-shaken premium for known cocktails, upscale ambience, two and booty-moving dance floors, hip-hop, global, and techno music. Circulator. drinks. $10 after 9:30pm week- com. Cover access. Bus: D.C. ends. No Metro between Georgetown and the and Georgetown between NW (at Patomac). NW (at Patomac). more, via requests submitted through Congress members, Tues–Sat members, Congress submitted through via requests more, first-served on a first-come, holidays, federal 7:30am–12:30pm, except accepted are basis; reservations wrought-iron fence, at 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. (open to groups of 10 or (open to groups Ave. Pennsylvania at 1600 fence, wrought-iron 7041 details and a 30-minute video. See “Political more 7:30am–4pm), offers As you wander among the monuments, memorials, and museums, among the monuments, wander As you can’tnotice the help but you Mon–Sat except guided tours of The Mall (open to the public for Thanksgiving and Dec 25; see p 30); the the Vietnam from across almost directly on Constitution Avenue, group prearranged Memorial (open to the public through Veterans tours; 05_049014 ch01.qxp 9/11/06 9:07 AM Page 13 Page AM 9:07 9/11/06 ch01.qxp 05_049014 05_049014 ch01.qxp9/11/069:07AMPage14

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A v e . 15 The Best of D.C. in Two Days home of giant pandas home of giant But Butterstick is not the only But Butterstick draw here. Established in 1889, the Established here. draw National Zoo is home to some 500 and/or species, many of them rare over The park ranges endangered. are which (65 hectares), 163 acres beautifully landscaped, wooded, and strolling for and wonderful see the sunshine. You’ll enjoying camels; ele- cheetahs; zebras; antelopes; brown phants; tapirs; hippos; rhinos; pelicans; kangaroos; lions, apes; and, of course, giraffes; and (other) bears. tigers, Habitat; tickets are required to view Habitat; required are tickets 8:30am and the pandas between passes 3:30pm. A small number of available are viewing same-day for at 8am, daily at the zoo, beginning Booth. Information at the Panda A contest was National Zoological Metro to Woodley Park-Zoo to Woodley Metro A baby giant panda was born A baby giant panda was ay 2 startsay National Zoo— early at the Shan (aka Tai toddler, Tian, and their adorable Mei Xiang, Tian Washington Post. Washington

You’ll need tickets to catch a need tickets You’ll

glimpse of these rare, wonderful glimpse of these rare, e-tick- The zoo issues free creatures. timed for its website ets through entry to the Fujifilm Giant Panda e here in captivity on July 9, 2005; he in captivity here length and size of a the measured since, Washingto- Ever stick of butter. been obsessed with their nians have logging onto the national treasure, and fol- online “pandacam,” live, zoo’s step in his every progressive lowing the garner- held to name the little critter, than 200,000 suggestions. ing more won, Shan (“peaceful mountain”) Tai still “Butterstick,” but to locals he’s son. our favorite and he’s 1 Park. D start early If you this side of Beijing. the cutest bears “Butterstick”), the time left to explore have zoo opens at 6am), you’ll enough (the bustle of Eastern the commercial of Capitol Hill—from many faces Capitol and and judges in the U.S. to the hustle of lawmakers Market and spectators. Court tours buildings, both open for Supreme START: Butterstick in infancy, at the National Zoo. in infancy, Butterstick

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2 Eastern Market. After the zoo, return to the Metro and head for Capitol Hill. First stop: a city insti- tution that unites Washingtonians of all political stripes. Is it a flea market? Farmer’s market? Crafts fair? Vanity fair? Eastern Market is all Full-Day Tours Full-Day these things. Its permanent buildings (Tues–Sun) house florists, bak- eries, and brunch spots. Fuel up on lattes, pancakes, muffins, omelets,

The Best bagels and lox, or even ham sand- wiches and salt-and-vinegar chips before you shop. The outdoor lot Cheetahs in the African Savanna exhibi- fills on weekends (Mar–Dec) with tion at The National Zoo. farmers and fresh produce, artisans and ceramics, and bargain-hunters If you have very young children, haggling over a mishmash of the hilly terrain can be tiring, espe- antiques. @ 1 hr. Start: 9:45am. See cially on hot days. The zoo rents p 111 for service details. strollers, and the Kids’ Farm provides a nice break from all that walking. 3 Library of Congress. Want Children 3 to 8 can observe farm to see the original Declaration of animals up close: ducks, chickens, Independence written in Thomas goats, cows, and miniature donkeys. Jefferson’s own hand? This Ameri- And toddlers love the nearby “pizza” can treasure is here, along with the playground. @ 60–90 min. Start: papers of other presidents, historic 8am (the zoo opens at 6am, so you maps, revolving exhibitions, and can start earlier if you’d like more multimedia resources. The Library time here) and allow 20 min. for of Congress houses the most com- Metro to next tour stop. 3001 Con- prehensive collection of archival necticut Ave. NW, adjacent to Rock material documenting this country’s Creek Park. y 202/673-4800 or birth and growth as a nation. It 673-4717. www.si.edu/natzoo. Free occupies three adjacent buildings admission. Daily Apr–Oct (weather permitting): grounds 6am–8pm; ani- The original Declaration of Independence, at the Library of Congress. mal buildings 10am–6pm. Daily Oct–Apr: grounds 6am–6pm; animal buildings 10am–4:30pm.

Need a quick coffee or snack? Look for one of the three year-round eateries on zoo grounds: the Mane Restaurant on Lion/Tiger Hill, Panda Café near the Fujifilm Panda Habitat, or Express Grill at Panda Plaza. PopStop, across from the Small Mammal House, is seasonal. Vending machines are positioned near restroom and information facilities throughout the park. 17 The Best of D.C. in Two Days 1 hr. @ 6827. www.aoc.gov, - 202/225 y For the guided tour, head to the the guided tour, For www.house.gov, or www.senate.gov. www.house.gov, Mon–Sat, starts 1st tour at 9:30am and the last at 3:30pm. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, and Dec 25. Metro: Capitol South or Union Station. 17-acre (6.8-hectare) floor area. A floor area. (6.8-hectare) 17-acre tour includes the 30-minute guided (29m) Rotunda, with its 96-foot-wide the (54m) domed ceiling; 180-foot-tall Crypt; and the Statuary Hall, with its sons and of favorite sculptures each state. from daughters corner of the kiosk on the southwest (1st and Indepen- Capitol grounds the from across dence sts. SW, Botanic Gardens; daily 9am–4:30pm). first- first-come, free; are Tickets (even beverages Food, served. and pointed bags, sealed), large prohibited. objects are Entrance on E. Capitol St.,Entrance at 1st St. NW. The Library of Congress reading room. reading The Library of Congress This 1 hr.; arrive 1 hr.; @ U.S. Capitol Building. Interior of the Library of Congress. 4 on Capitol Hill: the Thomas Jefferson Building (1897), the John C. Adams Building (1938), and the James Madi- son Building (1981). to the building’s completion in 1819. to the building’s A museum of American art and his- civic as its principal as well tory, a stop the Capitol is worth forum, and hun- just to see its architecture and of paintings, sculptures, dreds its throughout other artworks majestic, 19th-century neoclassical the seat of as landmark has served since the first American lawmaking in 1800. In 1793, George Congress of laid the cornerstone Washington original William Thornton’s Dr. saw architects design, and various 30 min. before tour begins.30 min. before Docent- departled, scheduled public tours Mon–Sat, Hall of the Great in the Building, at 10:30, Thomas Jefferson 11:30am, 1:30, 2:30, and 3:30pm. SE. www. 101 Independence Ave. Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm, loc.gov. Metro: holidays. federal for except Capitol South or Union Station. 05_049014 ch01.qxp 9/11/06 9:07 AM Page 17 Page AM 9:07 9/11/06 ch01.qxp 05_049014 05_049014 ch01.qxp 9/11/06 9:07 AM Page 18

entry with time to spare. 1 1st St. NE If you wish to view the House or (between E. Capitol St. and Maryland Senate galleries in session, you Ave. NE). y 202/479-3000. www. can find complete coverage (with supremecourtus.gov. Free admission. how-to tips) in “Political Washing- Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm, except for fed- ton” on p 28. eral holidays. Metro: Capitol South or Union Station. Full-Day Tours Full-Day 5 Supreme Court. The chamber of the U.S. Supreme Court, the high- You have an hour or two before din- est tribunal in the land, has been ner and don’t want to spoil it. If the restored to its mid-19th-century weather is beautiful, grab a soda and The Best appearance. Its nine justices, snack at any of the many vendor appointed for life terms, decide our carts stationed on 6 The Mall. collective fate—whether they’re Then, either relax on the grass and weighing in on federal laws or, more people-watch, admire the sights, rarely, sealing a contested presiden- check out a monument, or take in tial election. The court convenes the one of the dozens of events held on first Monday in October and stays in The Mall through the year—from session until it has heard all its cases kite-flying festivals to international and handed down decisions. The dance performances. (To find out Court hears oral arguments the first what’s happening during your visit, 2 weeks of each month on Monday, go to www.nps.gov/mall.) If the Tuesday, and Wednesday. Visitors can weather is nasty, head to Union listen to the arguments on short Station (Columbus Circle at Massa- tours, or they can watch the day’s chusetts Ave. and 1st St.), just a few entire proceedings. @ 1–2 hr.; lines blocks north, where you’ll find shel- can be long, so be prepared to wait ter, snacks, coffee, shopping, and for up to 1 hr. If you’re a legal eagle or stunning architecture—plus a Metro Court TV fanatic and absolutely must station for transportation to your see the day’s full proceedings, arrive next stop, dinner. @ 1 hr. Start: 4 or by 8:30am and get in line early, for 4:30pm, depending on when your first-come, first-served seating. Every- last tour ends. one else can start at 1:45pm and gain

The Supreme Court of the United States. 19 The Best of D.C. in Two Days 202/ y 450 7th St. NW 1122. www.shakespearedc.org. - Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar, with Bar, and Wine Sonoma Restaurant glass. than 40 vintages by the more Tickets $23–$68. Metro: Gallery $23–$68. Metro: Tickets or Archives/Navy Place/Chinatown Memorial. (between D and E sts.). (between 547 astounding sets and nationally actors. known pasta and pizzas, 202/544-8088. y Oenophiles and fans of Oenophiles and fans in productions with in productions Start: plan to catch If you The Shakespeare Theatre. The Shakespeare Sonoma Restaurant and Sonoma Restaurant Othello, Interior of the Supreme Court Chamber. Interior of the Supreme some theater after dinner, reserve for reserve some theater after dinner, you server 5:30 or 6pm and tell your need the check by 7:30pm. See chap- other options. 223 Pennsyl- ter 7 for SE. Ave. vania 8 best, from Catch the Bard’s Dream Night’s A Midsummer’s to 7 casual bistro is the perfect place to is the perfect casual bistro of sit and unwind after a long day Airysightseeing. and elegant, in four “small plates” Sonoma serves and char- cheeses groupings: food cuterie, handmade meats and fish, and wood-grilled Book salads and produce. organic be guaran- to table in advance your teed a table at this ever-popular hotspot. simply prepared, New American fare New simply prepared, Sonoma. With 40-plus will adore wines by the glass, plus a lovingly edited wine list of some 200 Italian bottles, this upscale but and French 11:30am–2:30pm; dinner Sun–Thurs 5:30–10pm, Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm. Capitol South. Metro: www.sonomadc.com. Lunch Mon–Fri www.sonomadc.com. Wine Bar. 05_049014 ch01.qxp 9/11/06 9:07 AM Page 19 Page AM 9:07 9/11/06 ch01.qxp 05_049014 05_049014 ch01.qxp9/11/069:07AMPage20

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A t o a u d 21 The Best of D.C. in Three Days past every- Embassy Row, National Cathedral; Walkers will enjoy the 2-mile will enjoy Walkers tional; embassy offices provide valu- tional; embassy offices provide able services to their countrymen and many ambassadors and women, as well. here live and their families the Wash- toward (3.2km), uphill hike ington radiate. Head northwest up Massa- Head northwest radiate. immedi- and you’ll chusetts Avenue of the ately notice stunning examples this city is so which for architecture as known It’s famous. 170 embassies are and many of D.C.’s and on or near this strip. Elegant these the top, occasionally over both historic and func- are structures one else can grab a bus at several a one else can grab advise the I’d points along the way. to Sheridan Circle majority to stroll on Massachusetts Avenue—which, 15- or 20- uninterrupted, is a leisurely but you’ll Kramers, from minute walk to stop and gape along the want Highlights include: way. Metro to Dupont Circle Metro 202/ Washing- y This book- START: After you’re Leaves of Grass. Leaves 1 hr. Start: 8:30am. 1 hr. @ he Day 3 itinerary spirits you away from the crowds, crowds, the from away 3 itinerary spirits you he Day National to the Embassy Row, highlights of the architectural 1400. www.kramers.com. Break- 1400. www.kramers.com. - Kramer Books and After Kramer Embassy Row. Kramer Books and Afterwords Café & Grill, in Dupont Circle. Books and Afterwords Kramer T Cathedral. Then you’ll spend a leisurely afternoon browsing, spend- afternoon browsing, spend a leisurely Then you’ll Cathedral. By the end of in Georgetown. and sipping espressos ing some dosh, bet you we Washington—and know you as though feel 3, you’ll Day to leave. want won’t Words Café & Grill. Café Words dinner $11–$18. Daily 7:30am–1am. See start,Metro: above. fast $6.25–$9.75; lunch $8.25–$13; fast 2 1 387 store, grill, and coffee shop is the grill, and coffee store, A leg- Circle. center of Dupont nerve always endary gathering place, it’s college kids, styl- with groovy packed readers, men, voracious ish gay debating politicians, and curious to pick up the urge tourists who feel Whitman’s Walt Open early in the morning and late at spot to start the perfect the night, it’s the and breakfast over day, ton Post. NW (between 1517 Connecticut Ave. and Q St.).Dupont Circle jazzed up on espressos, cross the cir- cross jazzed up on espressos, thoroughfares which several cle, from 05_049014 ch01.qxp 9/11/06 9:07 AM Page 21 Page AM 9:07 9/11/06 ch01.qxp 05_049014 05_049014 ch01.qxp9/11/069:07AMPage22 22

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23 The Best of D.C. in such as roasted chicken, tuna steaks, and burgers. With small por- tions and crayons for kids. @ 1 hr. Start: Noon. 3228 Wisconsin Ave. NW (at Macomb St.). y 202/ 628-2233. Entrees $12–$20. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 10:30am–10pm. Metro: Tenleytown. Three Days

In pleasant weather, walkers will enjoy the roughly 20-minute downhill stroll to R Street, our next stop. Houses on Embassy Row. Everyone else can take the 30, 32, 34, 35, or 36 bus line in front of the 3 Washington National Russian Embassy at 2650 Wiscon- Cathedral. This glorious cathedral, sin Ave. NW, about a block north the world’s sixth largest, is where of the intersection of Wisconsin presidents are eulogized and some- and Calvert. Taxis are also always times interred, and where many a plentiful on this main drag. member of high society is wed. With 5 R Street in Georgetown. vaulted ceilings and rich stone carv- With its four- and five-story brick Fed- ings, the English Gothic architecture eral and Georgian-style mansions, incorporates stones from shrines and painted in robins-egg blue and sunny historic buildings around the uni- yellow; its private gardens rife with verse—including outer space. That’s red tulips and pale pink hydrangeas; right: A piece of lunar rock from the and its uniform row houses and man- Apollo XI mission is embedded in the icured lawns, this street epitomizes stained-glass Space Window. It’s a residential Georgetown. Simply put, big hit with kids, as is the Darth R Street between Wisconsin Avenue Vader gargoyle hidden among the spires. Episcopalian, the church has The Washington National Cathedral. no local congregation; rather, it has functioned as a national house of prayer for various denominations, including Jewish and Serbian Ortho- dox citizens. (For directions, ask an attendant or download your own self-guided map from www.cathedral. org.) @ 1 hr. Start: 11am. Mass- achusetts and Wisconsin aves. NW. y 202/537-6200. tours@cathedral. org for tour information. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–4:30pm; Sun 8am–6:30pm.

4 Café Deluxe. Airy, light, and warm, this bustling neighborhood bistro serves New American classics 05_049014 ch01.qxp 9/11/06 9:07 AM Page 24

2–5pm (except national holidays and Dec 24). 7 Montrose Park. Next door to Dumbarton, this historic park leads to the trails of Lover’s Lane and Rock Creek Park (the paved road that bor-

Full-Day Tours Full-Day ders the brick walls of Dumbarton Oaks will lead you down to these wooded trails). Doggie central, Mon- trose Park is where you’ll spot famous politicos walking their precious The Best pooches (George Stephanopoulos and his dachshunds are regulars). It’s also a serene space, perfect for lolling around, on its great lawn; having a picnic; or playing tennis, on one of its four free courts. @ 30 min. On the Dupont Circle. 3000 block of R St. NW, next to Dumbarton Oaks. and 28th Street NW, is where most 8 Oak Hill Cemetery. This his- Washingtonians would choose to live toric cemetery is sometimes hard to if money were no object. It is also get into—funerals trump tourists, home to a spectacular botanical gar- naturally—but even a stroll along its den, a historic park, meandering trails winding iron gates is worth the trek. with romantic benches and weeping Across the street from the former willow trees, and a grand, private mansion of the late, great Katharine cemetery. @ 2 hr. Start: 1:30pm. Graham (the Washington Post 6 Dumbarton Oaks. Once a pri- doyenne), its chapel is the only vate residence, this 19th-century known example of James Renwick’s mansion is a research center for stud- Gothic Revival ecclesiastical design. ies in Byzantine and pre-Columbian The hilly grounds also feature gar- art and history, as well as landscape dens, winding trails, and stunning architecture. A former cow pasture, statuary dating from 1850. With the grounds of Dumbarton Oaks were views of Rock Creek and the occa- fashioned into staggeringly beautiful sional wild deer and fox. @ 30 min. traditional European gardens—with 30th and R sts. Mon–Fri 10am–4pm; an orangery, crocus, scilla, narcissus, closed to the public during funerals. magnolia, and cherry blossoms. Walk- ways are lined with bubbling foun- 9 Patisserie Poupon. Join the tains, stone archways, romantic legion of French expats who congre- hideaways, tiled pools, and a Roman- gate here because it makes them style amphitheater. The mansion is feel like they’re back in the old coun- closed for renovations, but the gar- try. Narrow and spare, this sweet dens remain open year-round, confection of a cafe serves up snappy weather permitting (Apr–May are espresso drinks, authentic croissants, peak months). @ 30 min. 1703 32nd and other tempting baked treats. St. NW (garden entrance at 31st and @ 30 min. Start: 3:15pm. 1645 Wis- R sts.). y 202/339-6401. www.doaks. consin Ave. NW (between Q St. and org. Gardens: $7 adults; $5 kids and Reservoir Rd.). y 202/342-324. seniors. Tues–Sun year-round; Mar www.patisseriepoupon.com. $ 15–Oct 31 2–6pm, Nov 1–Mar 14 25 The Best of D.C. in Three Days Stroll 4242. Cocktails $6.75–$10. - or any of its neighboring 3050 K St. NW (waterfront). 3050 K St. NW (waterfront). On a beautiful night, nothing Mendocino Grille for din- Mendocino Grille for Cabanas for cocktails. cocktails. Cabanas for 202/944 ner. # @ y 11:30am–11pm; Sun 1–9pm. Head 11:30am–11pm; Sun 1–9pm. back to M St.by 7:15pm. the promenade, gaze at the boats gaze at the the promenade, waves, the Potomac slicing through a cocktail—you and then order The and relax. to sit down deserve Harbor has loads of Washington better for but most are restaurants, of their outdoor seating and views their culinary than for inven- the river stop by suggest you So we tiveness. Cabanas, right on top (they’re restaurant/bars a dirtyof each other) for martini or And don’t snack. Save cold beer. meal, back on M a great for room Street. 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat Mon–Thurs beats a garden table at this stylish of which fuses the flavors restaurant, The and the Mediterranean. California the wine list interior is open and airy, small touches is great, lovely and olives, of zesty warm abound. Bowls off hunger help stave example, for works Trautmann while chef Drew casual his magic in the kitchen. It’s need to won’t enough that you but elegant dinner, change or fuss for shouldn’t wear enough that you 45 @ Look Bring your Depending hr. Start: 4:30pm. hr. 2 ⁄ 1 1 and for early-20th-centuryand for @ Random Harvest. Carling Nichols, Cherry, Gore- Antique Row. Corner of Wisconsin Antiques stores on Wisconsin Avenue, in Georgetown. Avenue, on Wisconsin Antiques stores Avenue and M Street. Avenue min. Start: 3:45pm. Wisconsin Ave., N sts. S to from ! 0 ceramic water jugs, and all sorts of water ceramic finds. The best of the one-of-a-kind lot: Dean, fans, which way you’re walking, Antique walking, you’re which way either a cool cruise downhill is Row case, In either or a steep upgrade. care—they’ll won’t antiques lovers store- be too busy gaping at the condition 18th-cen- with mint fronts tury beautifully painted divans, consoles, weathered Persian Chic, and a slew of antiques stores. It of antiques stores. Chic, and a slew afternoon. could be an expensive all shopped out, walk When you’re on Wisconsin south, downhill, to the you It will deliver Avenue. Harbor and the Potomac Washington River. down M Street and you’ll spy Inter- spy and you’ll M Street down Kate Sephora, mix, Coach, K Baby, design district,Spade, and the new up Wisconsin and Look Alley. Cady’s see Benetton, Kenneth Cole, French Urban Connection, Baby Gap, Sugar, black AmEx card for this shopping black AmEx card for that steep. are stroll—prices 05_049014 ch01.qxp 9/11/06 9:07 AM Page 25 Page AM 9:07 9/11/06 ch01.qxp 05_049014 05_049014 ch01.qxp9/11/069:07AMPage26

The Best Full-Day Tours 26 Detour toArlingtonNationalCemetery chapter 7for otheroptions. especially onweekend nights.See Bookyourshorts. tableinadvance, St. NW (at 29th St.). NW(at29thSt.). St. War II,andtheKorean War (seephoto). the unidentifiedremains ofservicemembers from World War I,World justices Thurgood Marshall andWilliamBrennan alsolieinrest here. John Foster Dulles,President WilliamHoward Taft, andSupreme Court ers, suchasfive-star General JohnJ.Pershing’s of State tomb.Secretary Many famous Arlingtongraves bearnothingmore thansimplemark- heroes andmore than260,000war dead,veterans, anddependents. side oftheTheodore Roosevelt Memorial Bridge.Ithonors national (248 hectares) onthehighhillsoverlooking thecapitalfrom thewest ranges overArlington NationalCemetery approximately 612acres mobile tickets close to8amcontemplatethesitequietly. Kennedyisburiedcloseby.to herhusband,andRobert Arrive John Fitzgerald Kennedy. the cityhedesigned.Below ArlingtonHouseisthe House ataspotthatisbelieved toafford thebestview ofWashington, lived here between 1831and1861. E.Lee, dolph, inheritedtheestate,andsheherhusband,Robert building thestructure in1802.Custis’s daughter, AnnaRan- Mary Washington’s grandson, George Washington Parke Custis,began 20-minute, uphillwalk from theVisitorCenter. andGeorge Martha Arlington House Other highlightsincludethe The Pierre CharlesL’Enfant’s grave Visitor Center y (p 9). 202/333 2917 M ( y offers adetailedmap,restrooms, and - 2912. 703/235-1530; Jacqueline KennedyOnassisrests next Tomb oftheUnknowns, 11pm. Metro: Foggy Bottom. Thurs 5:30–10pm;Fri–Sat5:30– $18–$27. AE,DC,DISC,MC,V. Sun– www.mendocinodc.com. Entrees was placednearArlington www.nps.gov/arho) isa gravesite of containing Tour-