CHINA TARIFF IMPACT/3 GWYNETH’S LAUDER DEAL/23 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 23, 2005 • $2.00

WWDMONDAY ▲ Gwyneth Paltrow Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

The Price Is Right NEW YORK — With Memorial Day Weekend coming up, WWD celebrates summer this week with a look at warm-weather merch. First up: fabulous fashion that costs $50 and less. Here, Old Navy’s nylon, Lycra and polyester bikini top, $14.50; Viktoria Hayman’s wood necklace, $50, 877-352-4224; A.P.C.’s cotton pareo, $34, at apc.fr; a dyed cornhusk tote with raffia flower from Redfish Designs, $33, at redfishdesigns.com; Old Navy’s plastic sunglasses, $10, and a leather sandal from Seychelles, $48, at Shopintuition.com. For more summer hits, see pages 6 and 7. Coty’s Global Ambitions: Calvin Klein Key to Unilever Deal By Molly Prior And Beetz showed it on Friday analysts said could catapult the NEW YORK — Coty Inc. chief executive when Coty acquired the marquee company into the top five of global officer Bernd Beetz is serious when Calvin Klein fragrance by signing a fragrance firms. he talks about grooming the deal to buy Unilever’s global Beetz has bigger ideas. He intends privately held company to be the prestige fragrance business for to become “the world fragrance world’s leading beauty firm. $800 million, a move that some See Coty, Page 22 PHOTO BY GEORGEPHOTO BY JULIA TOPOLSKI CHINSEE; STYLED BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 WWD.COM There’s No Dearth in Denim By Sharon Edelson stocks Friday — American Eagle $26.64, and PacSun closed at WWDMONDAY Outfitters, Abercrombie & Fitch $20.99, down 69 cents, both on the Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear NEW YORK — There can be too and Pacific Sunwear of Cali- Nasdaq. A&F closed at $54.49, much of a good thing — perhaps fornia — to “underweight” from down 71 cents, on the New York FASHION even for denim. “neutral.” Stock Exchange. Summer is meant to be easy and breezy, so there’s no need to spend big Fashion trends generally flow “Our sense is that denim for Guess will increase denim in- 6 bucks when chic looks can be had at affordable prices. in three-year cycles, but a lot can the industry continues to be ventory by 25 percent, and Aber- happen to shorten that life span. strong, but we also feel a glut crombie’s inventory is up 50 per- The most common and damaging brewing as retailer after retailer cent, compared with being down GENERAL is overexposure. Think of any de- talks about the larger denim in- 20 percent last year, Graves said. Coty Inc. acquired the Calvin Klein fragrance business by signing a deal to signer handbag or runway craze vestment and higher prices they He added that America Eagle is 1 acquire Unilever’s global prestige fragrance business for $800 million. whose facsimile turned up in the are planning on that denim,” up 5 percent. Others loading up As stores increase denim orders for fall, two Wall Street analysts have windows of Express, Zara and Pak wrote in a research note. on denim include Express, Gap 2 raised concerns there may be too much denim chasing too few customers. H&M a few months later. Jeffrey Klinefelter, a senior and Aeropostale. “If everybody makes the same research analyst at Piper Jaffray, Retailers most at risk are U.S. sourcing executives saw the move by China to place higher tariffs on bet, you’ll have a sea of sameness, said the moderate denim space those selling commodity-type 3 its apparel and textile exports as more symbolic than substantive. where everybody’s window is full is getting crowded. “Although we products. “There’s not enough INNERWEAR: The focus on newness at this month’s market overtook the of denim,” said Andy Graves, sen- are encouraged by American premium-priced denim or 8 apprehensive mood related to retail consolidation and lackluster sales. ior analyst at Pacific Growth Eagle’s decision to expand its al- adorned denim,” Graves said. Estée Lauder Cos. has snatched another bold-faced name, Gwyneth Equities, referring to the high ready dominant denim assort- “We’re in a good cycle, but the Paltrow, to be a spokeswoman for the Estée Lauder brand. denim inventories some retailers ment for back-to-school, we are product has to be creative. It 23 have planned for fall. “That could concerned about the number of can’t be a once-washed, five- Chanel shoppers gave the label two thumbs up to the tune of $5.6 million in cause backlash and buyer confu- competitors who have witnessed pocket blue jean.” 24 sales during a three-day record-breaking Bergdorf Goodman trunk show. sion. If the Gap doesn’t hit its AE’s success and will be joining Rob Wilson, president and EYE: AmFAR’s Cinema Against AIDS benefit at Cannes brought out the dazzling sales targets, the stores will start the denim fray in earnest this founder of Tiberon Research, 28 dresses missing from the red carpet all week and the stars to wear them. to mark down, and you’ll get a dis- summer and fall,” he wrote in a said that A&F is less exposed counting cycle. That’s the risk.” research note. because the company increased Classified Advertisements ...... 25-27 Even as retailers increase Klinefelter lowered Ameri- its price points and separated it- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is denim orders for back-to-school, can Eagle’s rating from “outper- self from the pack. [email protected], using the individual’s name. at least two Wall Street analysts form” to “perform.” “The more commoditized WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 have raised concerns that by fall Executives at A&F, American brands have more exposure,” he FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 189, NO. 109. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one there may be too much denim Eagle and PacSun did not return said. “There may be more expo- additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional chasing too few customers. phone calls seeking comment. sure with department stores and issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL Stacy Pak, a Prudential retail On Friday, shares of American brands like Old Navy...The people OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill analyst, downgraded three retail Eagle declined $1.07, to close at really at risk are the wholesalers.” Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is Ullman Lays Out Penney’s Plan required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, logue and Internet businesses Internet business hit $800 million please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild By Rusty Williamson magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully with a five-year agenda which fo- with $1 billion planned in 2005, screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive PLANO, Tex. — J.C. Penney Co. cuses on fashion and “styles that EBIT levels were 7.1 percent last these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED wants to be the preferred shop- inspire,” along with value, quality year and debt was reduced by MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND ping choice for middle America, and effective communication with $1.7 billion, because $3.5 billion TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART chairman and chief executive its associates and its customers. in net proceeds was gained from WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Myron E. Ullman 3rd said Fri- “Our long-range plan is fo- the sale of the Eckerd chain. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. day as he presided over his first cused on serving our customers “All the mergers taking place annual shareholders’ meeting and growing our business,’’ he in retailing now are creating tur- TUESDAY: Burberry Group reports fourth-quarter and since joining the $18 billion said. “Working together, we will moil for the consumer, and we year-end earnings. chain in December. take our performance to an in- see this as being an even more The Sports Authority reports first-quarter sales and Ullman told about 200 people dustry leadership level.” important time to focus on and earnings. the 1,017-unit retailer is poised to He noted Penney’s stock price make an emotional connection grow its multichannel store, cata- went up 54 percent in 2004, its with middle-income customers, WEDNESDAY: Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. reports first- which are the sweet spot of our quarter sales and earnings. business,” Ullman said. At least half of Penney’s vol- THURSDAY: The Commerce Department releases the ume is generated by shoppers first-quarter Gross Domestic Product report. ONE POINT. MANY RESOURCES. who are 35 to 54 years old, with Chico’s reports first-quarter sales and earnings. annual incomes of $35,000 to $85,000, he said. FRIDAY: EXIT-Export Italia show, Bologna, Italy In addition, Ullman said Pen- (through Saturday). Consultants to the ney’s is committed to new-store COMING THIS WEEK Jewelry & Watch growth and plans to build 12 to Industry 20 off-the-mall stores each year over the next five years, with $2.4 billion earmarked to remodel In Brief units and $270 million a year to build stores. In a meeting with Wall Street ● MAGIC SWIM: MAGIC Marketplace, a week after announcing analysts here last month, Pen- a bigger accessories component and partnership with the JCK ney’s executives said that, within Show, said it will be a partner with the International five years, they are aiming for op- Swimwear/Activewear Market. The ISAM Pavilion will bow at Mergers & Executive erating profits to increase to 9.5 the Aug. 29-Sept. 1 show at the Las Vegas Convention Center, Acquisitions Recruitment percent of sales from 7.1 percent showcasing swimwear collections for spring/summer 2006. last year, and to generate a 15 per- Sherman Oaks, Calif.-based ISAM has struggled to find the best cent return on equity and a 20 date and location for its show in the past few years. It had taken percent return on capital com- place at the California Market Center in downtown Los Angeles pared with 12.3 percent and 8.3 for almost two decades, moved to Santa Monica two years ago, Connection to percent, respectively, in 2004. and then bowed in Las Vegas in 2003 to coincide with MAGIC. Valuable Resources Last year, Penney’s had 2 percent annual store-to-store increases, ● SALVI TO LA PERLA: Giulio Salvi has been appointed presi- and the chain is planning low-sin- dent of La Perla Fashions Inc., the U.S. subsidiary of Bologna, gle-digit comp-store gains in 2005. Italy-based Gruppo La Perla. Based in New York, Salvi will over- For its latest fiscal year ended see the upscale lingerie and apparel maker’s wholesale and re- Jan. 29, Penney’s had earnings of tail businesses for the American and Caribbean markets. He re- 350 Fifth Ave. P (646) 473-1640 $524 million, or $1.76 a share, ports to Alberto Lavia, chief executive officer of Gruppo La Suite 5614 F (646) 473-1643 compared with a loss of $928 mil- Perla. Salvi has been a consultant for Italian and international New York, NY 10118 www.kaisertime.com lion, or $3.13 a share, a year ago. luxury apparel businesses since 1997. Salvi succeeds Yolanda Revenues grew 3.6 percent to Marini, who left the company in March. $18.24 billion from $17.79 billion. WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 3 WWD.COM Little Impact Seen From China Export Tariffs

By Evan Clark tunity for discussion with the Chinese government on with a 10-day notice,” said Stephen Lamar, senior vice the measure just announced.” president of the American Apparel & Footwear WASHINGTON — U.S. sourcing executives saw the move Other petitions for safeguards are still under consid- Association. “Those decisions have been made long ago.” by China on Friday to place higher tariffs on its apparel eration by the U.S. government and the groups repre- Should the increase in prices ultimately be passed and textile exports as more symbolic than substantive and senting domestic manufacturers have vowed to file more along to consumers, Lamar said it would in effect be a tax an action that won’t change manufacturing strategies. such requests. The European Union has also moved to by the Chinese government on the American consumer. It is symbolism, though, that might help China lessen restrain Chinese imports. Paul Charron, chairman and chief executive officer of tensions with the U.S. and Europe after a surge of imports The quotas pack more of a punch and are more dis- Liz Claiborne Inc., said at the firm’s annual meeting from the country following the elimination of quotas this ruptive to trade than the stepped-up tariffs, said Rick Thursday that he had heard speculation that China would year among World Trade Organization members. Darling, president of Li & Fung USA’s Global Brand raise its export tariffs, and noted the recent quota calls. China will increase export tariffs on 74 types of appar- Business Group. “All these possibilities have been incorporated into el and textile products on June 1, according to a report on “In the scheme of things, it’s not going to have much our allocation plans for the balance of this year,” the official state news service Friday. For most of the cat- impact certainly on the flow of trade,” he said of the ris- Charron said. “Importantly, our sourcing configuration egories, the duty would rise to 12 cents from 2.4 cents per ing duties. “It is an effort on China’s part to some coop- offers us significant flexibility to continue to effectively item. Complete details were unavailable, but exceptions erative effort. They’re trying to stem the flow of nega- source product during this uncertain time.” include women’s cotton overcoats, which will be levied tivism coming out of Washington.” Tariffs are also a revenue stream for the Chinese gov- with a 48-cent tariff, up from 3.6 cents. Wilbur Ross, chairman of International Textile Group, ernment and a way of nudging its textile and apparel man- The move puts more bite into tariffs China first imposed said the country raised its tariffs “to give them a better posi- ufacturing base toward more expensive goods, as per-item on its own exports on Jan. 1 and tariffs have a greater impact on low- comes on the heels of two calls within cost products. a week for new quotas by the Bush “[China] would like to do some- administration, meant to limit surging thing to ease tension, it’s not interest- Chinese imports into the country. ed in sort of sniping back and forth The rising tariffs indicate to the with the U.S.,” said Andrew Bernard, U.S. and other countries that China is professor of international economics not trying to absorb the entire appar- at the Tuck School of Business at el and textile industry, said Peter Dartmouth. “China wants to appear McGrath, chairman of purchasing for sensitive to the concerns of the U.S. J.C. Penney Purchasing Corp., noting, constituencies, but it’s not going to however, that the tariffs were not play necessarily by U.S. rules. This is “extraordinarily punitive.” the obvious place for it to try to signal “This, in my mind, is going to be that it’s not insensitive.” their method of export control,” said Looming larger for China than tex- McGrath, adding the Chinese can tiles is the issue of its currency, the raise them again to slow exports. yuan, which U.S. lawmakers and manu- The U.S. is seeking to restrict facturers maintain is undervalued, low- imports from China through the safe- ering the price of exports by as much as guard quotas it said it would imposed 40 percent and giving the country an this month, which would limit growth unfair trade advantage. in seven categories of goods, such as The yuan has been pegged to the man-made fiber trousers and cotton dollar at a rate of 8.28 to one for the last shirts and blouses, to a 7.5 percent decade, and the Treasury Department annual increase, calculated from the last week turned up the heat on China 12 months ended Feb. 28. for reforms. China had a trade surplus Together, the seven petitions for with the U.S. of $162 million last year. quotas, four filed by domestic manu- If China doesn’t move to further facturers and three initiated by the reform its monetary polices, Treasury administration, sought to slow the China imposed export tariffs on apparel and textiles Friday. Secretary John Snow said the country growth of imports of those seven cat- could be labeled a manipulator of its egories, worth $1.31 billion. Those currency, which would lead to WTO restrictions go into place when consultations with the tion in the consultations” with the U.S. on safeguard quotas. involvement and ultimately economic sanctions. Chinese are officially requested later this month. The first round of tariffs on 148 export categories, Dan Griswold, director of the center for trade policy Chinese apparel and textile imports shot up 60.5 per- which went into effect on Jan. 1, was for a token amount studies at the Cato Institute, a libertarian think tank, cent to $4.77 billion during the first three months of the of just 1 or 2 cents per garment, said Ross. said the tariff rise was “a move to diffuse protectionist year, according to the Commerce Department. “It will be interesting to see whether this is a mean- pressures in the U.S.,” but one that might not succeed. Commerce is evaluating a list of the export tariffs ingful amount or more of a token to fend off the retalia- “It’s a-lesser-of-evils gesture,” he said. “It’s bad eco- from China and will go ahead with the consultations on tory moves by the U.S. and Europe,” he said. nomics, and I don’t expect it will prove to be any better of the surging imports, triggering safeguard quotas on the The tariffs take effect quickly for an industry that a political move. Why shouldn’t purchasers of apparel and seven categories, a spokesman for the department said. works on lead times that can exceed eight months. related products be able to enjoy global prices and global “These consultations will be undertaken by the end of “I don’t know if anyone expects this to affect short-to- competition?” May,” the spokesman said, “and will represent an oppor- medium term sourcing patterns when it’s being imposed — With contributions from Kristi Ellis EIGHT DAYS IN MAY country could be labeled a manipulator of its currency, which could lead to World Trade Organization involvement and possible economic sanctions. U.S. ● At his swearing-in ceremony, U.S. Trade Representative Robert Commerce Portman said, “I have already begun a top-to-bottom review of China Secretary trade issues, and I will work closely with Congress to see that American Carlos workers, farmers and businesses are treated fairly.” Gutierrez

WEDNESDAY, MAY 18 ● The U.S. government moved to restrict imports of four additional categories of Chinese goods, including man-made fiber trousers and combed-cotton yarn valued at $690.4 million.

THURSDAY, MAY 19 U.S. Treasury Secretary John Snow ● Snow named Olin Wethington his special envoy to China. “[Currency] FRIDAY, MAY 13 reform is in China’s best interest and it is in the best interest of the ● The U.S. Commerce Department moved to limit imports on three global economy,” Wethington said. categories of Chinese apparel imports, including cotton knit shirts and blouses and cotton trousers valued at $624.5 million. FRIDAY, MAY 20 ● China said it would restrict its own exports by hiking tariffs on 74 TUESDAY, MAY 17 categories of apparel and textiles, effective June 1. Most of the goods ● U.S. Treasury Secretary John Snow warned China that without reforms the will be charged a duty of 12 cents per item, up from 2.4 cents. WWDThe Magazine The best seat in the house.

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By Karyn Monget way: “May market is sort of a no-man’s land. We use it as Fashion-forward a postmortem opportunity to evaluate business.” NEW YORK — The focus on fashion and newness overtook looks such as Carole Hochman, chairman and design director of the the apprehensive market mood related to retail consolida- On Gossamer’s Hochman firm, agreed saying, “I consider the other mar- tion and lackluster sales this month as merchants reviewed colorful cami kets [January, March, August, November] to be hurricane assortments and buys for transitional and holiday selling. and briefs were season for us. May allows us to strategize and do it better Market week, which preceded Mother’s Day, one of the best-booking the next time.” biggest gift-giving holidays for lingerie, was split into two items. “We had overwhelming response to color plays like camps: vendors that showed new product or collections stretch lace camis and thongs in one color trimmed with for the fourth quarter and Valentine’s Day programs, and another contrasting lace,” said Gail Epstein, president those who recapped March offerings for fall and back-to- and creative director of Hanky Panky. She said the school. In some cases, particularly in foundations, spring increased interest in color opened up an up-and-coming collections were either introduced or expanded with classification: stretch lace sleepwear items. additional colors and key items. Jennifer O’Connell, designer of sleepwear by French While May typically is a quiet market, a number of Jenny and licensed characters at Richard Leeds Inter- manufacturers seized the opportunity to schmooze with national, said the company’s most successful initiative retailers and present new marketing and advertising for transitional and spring selling was “innovation and strategies. It also was a time to test reaction to fresh ideas newness.” and concepts as well as secure exclusive labels for 2006. “I think the mood overall was the stores might be a lit- All of these factors weighed in as executives mulled the tle apprehensive, but when ratio of brands and private label, fashion and basics, and there’s newness, it works.” the right balance of quantities and assortments needed to A spokeswoman for Kayser- survive in a challenging business environment. Roth Corp., which manufactures From a retailer’s perspective, Maureen Stabnau, senior Hue intimates, said sleepwear for vice president of merchandising at Bare Necessities, a lin- Valentine’s Day that did not have a gerie specialty chain based in Newark, N.J., said: “May is lingerie look was a best-booking two months down the road from March, but it still remains classification. “We’ve continued an important market for us, because we want to offer with fun little embellishments like uniqueness of product, silhouette and color. It’s also a good the part of retailers as they look ahead to embroidered hearts, grosgrain time to review fourth quarter and wrap up Valentine’s Day.” spring 2006 was mixed. Newness and ribbons, bugle bead trims and con- Stabnau said a highlight was how manufacturers are “There are the ones who are doing OK, and whimsey trasting waistbands. These are not dramatically “picking up on ready-to-wear trends,” par- it was business as usual. Better retailers don’t such as the sexy lingerie gifts. They are gifts ticularly a spectrum of rtw colors such as rich hues of seem to be as concerned, and the focus contin- licensed for your mother or your best metallics, a wide range of berry shades and earth tones, ues to be on luxury,” Lee said. “But I think a lot Pussyfoot friend,” said the spokeswoman. and anything that shines. She singled out three vendors more are suffering more than they would like brand by Meanwhile, she said Kayser- for “great color” — On Gossamer, Hanky Panky and to say. At the time of the [May 2-6] market, the Warner Bros. Roth’s rollout of No nonsense Jockey’s relaunch of bras in fashion colors. price of gas was sky high, and people were and at Richard panties has been expanded to Regarding anxiety over retail consolidation, Stabnau continue to be uncertain. Average consumers Leeds 10,000 food and drug store doors observed, “Everybody wants to see how the Federated- are not as concerned about the conflict in Iraq International from 1,000 when it was launched May merger works out. A lot of people are a little hesitant as they are about making ends meet at home.” was well in August 2004. “The demand right now.” Seth Morris, president of the Carole Hoch- received. has far exceeded out expecta- Victor Lee, president of NAP Inc., said the mood on man Group, sized up the pace of business this tions,” she said. Levi’s Goes Under the Jeans Macpherson’s Intimate Moment NEW YORK — The first line of men’s and women’s underwear, day- wear, sleepwear and loungewear bearing the Levi’s label is being LONDON — Fifteen years after launching her Bendon managers who looked at her bug-eyed produced under license by Signature Apparel Group for fall 2005. lingerie label — and her name as a brand — Elle when, pregnant with her first son, she floated the Officials at Levi Strauss and Signature Apparel would not give Macpherson is beginning to reap some long- idea of lingerie for pregnant women and new a sales projection, but wholesale sales the first full year for the awaited rewards. mothers. “They told me it wasn’t really my image, combined men’s and women’s businesses will be $15 million to “I’ve been through six management changes and it wouldn't appeal to my audience. I was like, $20 million, according to industry estimates. in 15 years,” said Macpherson, referring to her ‘Look at me. I’m my image,’ ” she recalled, laugh- Christopher Laurita, president and chief executive officer of license partners at the New ing. Maternity lingerie is now a Elle Signature Apparel, said distribution will be “three-tiered.” Zealand company Bendon Ltd. regular part of her collections. Macpherson “The strategy will be to present the lines to midtier stores like “Now, I finally have the support This season, she has expand- J.C. Penney, Kohl’s and Sears. “We’ll have better fabrics, treatments of the company, and the sales ed her line, with an eye to taking and trims for the Federateds of the world, and we’ll have a premium volumes to design exactly what lingerie back to its roots. “So line of technical fabrics [cotton and Modal and seamless polyelas- I want to design.” many designers have hijacked tane spandex] for department and specialty stores,” Laurita said. Macpherson signed a long- lingerie and used it as clothing. It Both the men’s and women’s products will be sized S, M, L, and term licensing agreement last needs to come back to where it XL. The underwear will primarily be merchandised in clear pack- November with Bendon, which belongs.” To wit, there are stretch ages that will display a prominent Levi-logoed waistband and a guarantees the global launch of satin camisole tops in shades of visual of a man and woman wearing underwear. Special treatments her label, Elle Macpherson Inti- pink and oyster; skinny cotton will include Levi’s signature red tabs, contrasting red stitching, and mates, over the next 20 years. jersey tops and shorts, and red and pale gray Levi logos. Styles will include lounge pants that As part of that new deal, she stretch satin slips to be worn at are an “exact replica of Levi’s 501 five-pocket jeans,” he said. launched her label in the U.S., home, or underneath clothing. “Calvin’s packaging is very where it sells at Saks Fifth Macpherson also paid par- sexy, while Jockey’s is very Avenue, Marshall Field’s, and ticular attention to detail this basic,” Laurita said. “We wanted in Canada at Holt Renfrew. season: She adapted a Thirties something in the middle, but we Total retail sales of the brand wallpaper print for a pair of still wanted the sex factor.” He grew 25 percent last year to $70 black lace underpants, and she noted that a concept shop envi- million. The brand launched in cut certain underpants strategi- ronment of different Levi prod- Australia and New Zealand in 1990, and in the cally across the upper thigh, so as to make legs ucts is being presented to retail- U.K. in 2001. It sells in about 1,200 retail outlets look slimmer. She also gave several camisole ers. “It’s really a lifestyle brand,” in the U.K., Hong Kong, Australia, New Zealand, tops a fishtail back so they don’t slide up and he said. the U.K. and Canada, as well as in the Middle expose inches of flesh when a woman sits down. A spokeswoman for San Fran- East in Bahrain, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and In terms of design, Macpherson said she was cisco-based Levi Strauss, said, the United Arab Emirates. influenced by several decades, including the “We are trying to put the power of Macpherson was in marketing mode here ear- Twenties, Thirties, Forties and Seventies. “It’s the Levi’s brand behind other cat- lier this month, bouncing around a candlelit, Seventies Lolita — prepubescent, young, and egories. Retailers will merchan- penthouse suite at Claridge’s, showing off her fall coquettish,” she said. dise the products by category and collection. She also took the role of guest speaker Macpherson said the fall collection is her the way they see it.” at an annual Cosmetic Executive Women spring most well-rounded. “I think it’s affordable, com- A visual of a fall marketing Prices have not been finalized. cocktail party at the Carlton Towers Hotel. fortable and wearable. campaign for Levi’s underwear. — K.M. During her speech, she talked about past — Samantha Conti LEEDS PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MACPHERSON BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE MACPHERSON BY MITRA; ROBERT LEEDS PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report Tanner Krolle Bags British Cool

By Sophia Chabbott Clarke, on the other hand, combined the house’s luxury her- itage and resources with the backdrop of London. She searched NEW YORK — Many of fashion’s “It” girls are born and bred in the U.K., through the costume archives of the British Museum and and no one understands this better than Tanner Krolle’s chief executive found inspiration in an 18th-century leather and brass bag officer Guy Salter. once used to carry coins In an effort to revitalize the 149-year-old handbag company’s Clarke reworked the silhouette into a contempo- London-cool quotient while retaining its integrity, Salter has hired rary handbag that is the centerpiece of the fall col- hip British shoe maven Adele Clarke as head designer. lection. The Money Bag in butter-soft napa that Clarke’s entry marks a youthquake for the brand. After attending slouches down elegantly has a tarnished nick- the Royal College of Art in London for footwear and studying fashion el bezel lid. Another style is an over- at Saint Martin’s School of Art, she designed accessories for size slouchy crescent bag in a but- Hussein Chalayan, DKNY and Asprey. She launched her own shoe ter color, made of the house’s collection in 2003 and has been the talk of industry insiders since. famous bridle leather and featuring ▲ The Sam Brown boot. “For us, it’s really about the London-chic thing,” said Salter, Tanner Krolle’s signature leather knots. adding that this is what he was hired to bring to the London-based Prices for handbags range from about $585 to $1,765 wholesale. brand. “It’s a sense of luxury that’s quirky, dangerous around the edges.” Clarke, who gave birth to a son, Orson, three weeks ago, calls her Tanner Krolle has been through more than a few incarnations. The collection of handbags and shoes “London-centric…. It’s like hearing

leather goods company was founded in 1856 by Frederick Krolle, a ▲ The Money Bag. a London accent in New York, but [without] it being too strong. I’m contemporary of the founders of Louis Vuitton and Loewe. ▲ The Knot Banana. trying to make [the accessories] more feminine than they were. Though it provided the British aristocracy with luggage and There is an overall backward-forward way of designing in saddles, public interest in it waned. Chanel purchased the London. It has an urban feel injected with femininity.” dusty brand in a buying spree in 1991. Though it still was Footwear, which is being tested in the firm’s three U.K. unable to find its footing with the fashion crowd during its boutiques and in retail partners such as Harrod’s, ranges tenure at Chanel, retail accounts, including Neiman Marcus from pointed flats in shiny calfskin to suede and leather and Bergdorf Goodman, held on to the luxury vendor. round-toe, knee-high boots on a medium heel. Depending Salter, who worked for the brand under Chanel, bought on its success, footwear will be brought to the U.S. market. it with a group of investors in 2003. The company is not looking to expand the number of whole- “It wasn’t a lovable brand when it was owned by Chanel,” sale accounts significantly. “We expect to see healthy revenue Salter said. “When I bought the brand, I thought it would increases, but not from [opening] more doors,” Salter said. be great to work with up-and-coming London talent…and However, the company is testing the waters in retail, with plans to people have been talking about Adele for ages in a stealthlike sort of way.” open a boutique here by mid-2007. Until last month, Quentin Mackay, now global creative director for In addition to its three U.K. boutiques, Tanner Krolle now has Samsonite, designed handbags and a capsule collection of shoes for the company. distribution in specialty stores in the U.S., Japan and London. Salter The collection varied from classic satchels with perforated spectator details to leather declined to give sales figures, but in 2003, the company was reported to totes with linear trapunto stitching and motorcycle-inspired silver zippered pockets. have sales of about $8.3 million. Carolina Amato Turns 30 And Looks to the Past Carolina Amato, the glove and shawl company, is celebrating its 30th anniversary in business. The Long Island-born designer may not be a household name, but her gloves and shawls are a mainstay for department stores like Neiman Marcus and specialty stores like Henri Bendel. Her styles range from popcorn-knit crocheted cashmere gloves in colors like pink and teal to elbow-length fine-knit cash- mere gloves with a leather gauntlet in a corresponding color like hunter green or midnight blue, for a dressy winter evening. Bridal accessories are a significant part of Amato’s business, with 1,500 wholesale accounts including specialty and smaller independent boutiques. The company offers a full range of silk and satin gloves in a large array of combinations, with crystal detailing and ribbon accoutrements. “Bridal worked out for me,” she said. “At the time I started doing bridal gloves, bare, elegant, unembellished dresses came into the market, and so everyone needed gloves.” The designer started in the fashion industry in the early Seventies designing costume jewelry. “Everyone was doing fash- ion jewelry back then,” said Amato. “Then a well-respected buyer came up to my showroom and told me, ‘Hey, no one is doing good gloves.’ So I decided to do gloves, and it grew from there.” The designer now is influenced by her 18- and 21-year-old daughters, Lorianna and Francesca. “They are always digging around in my archives and love the old styles that I did in the Seventies,” said Amato. In honor of her trifecta of three decades, Amato is ® reintroducing vintage styles SOXLAND from her archive, including a short, popcorn-knit glove with New Showroom 7 West 36th Street 7th Floor New York City 10018 two crocheted pom-poms at the end; a knit glove with an open- P 212•679•4588 F 212•679•0263 work gauntlet that slides over, E [email protected] www.soxland.com and a ruched midlength cashmere blend style with fur trim at the top. The company’s sales hit $5 mil- A vintage lion in 2004, according to Amato. style by — S.C. Amato. PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY 10 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 WWD.COM Accessories Report

BENEFICIAL BLING: Judith Leiber is adding some of her signature sparkle to the sunshine. Leiber created a sterling silver key chain set with genuine Austrian crystals in jet, light FINDINGS topaz, jonquil and black diamond to benefit Project Sunshine, a nonprofit organization that provides free programs and services to children and their families affected by life-threatening illnesses and serious medical challenges. The item is available for $145 at the Leiber boutique on Madison Avenue in Manhattan.

DOT THE ‘I’S: Handbag designer Rafe Totengco is lending his whimsical aesthetic to pens for A.T. Cross. For spring, Totengco has created a limited-edition line of pens and notebooks in colorful polkadot prints. Pens retail for $60 and notebooks are $12 on Cross’ Web site. This is the first time the 159-year-old Rhode Island-based company has paired up with a fashion designer for a line of products.

IN-HOUSE BAUBLES: Jewelry brand KC Thompson has moved into the Carlyle Hotel in New York. The company closed its three-year- old 72nd Street location and occupies 400 square feet of retail space at the posh hotel. Designed by Kristen Thompson and Martha O’Brien, the brand’s founding partners, the store is done in vibrant pink and gold tones. Cases along the walls and on the floor showcase Rafe Totengco’s pens and notebook for A.T. Cross. Thompson’s one-of-a-kind handmade jewelry, such as sea-inspired multistrands of freshwater pearls, chokers of coral and aquamarine and turquoise and blue topaz multidrop earrings. Retail prices range from $895 to $5,000. KC Thompson also is carried at Bergdorf Goodman.

BAKELITE AT BERGDORF’S: The Kentshire counter at Bergdorf Goodman in New York has undergone a drastic overhaul. The usual displays of vintage Cartier hoops and Van Cleef & Arpels brooches have been replaced by charm bracelets dripping with cherries and brooches shaped like a frowning bulldog. The change marks Kentshire’s exhibition of vintage Bakelite, a type of coveted costume jewelry that was ubiquitous in America and abroad from the Twenties to the Fifties. Costume jewelry designers ranging from Coco Chanel to Elsa Schiaparelli worked with Bakelite and set some of the major trends of the 20th century. Even after the midcentury war effort appropriated the supply of Bakelite for less glamorous uses, style icons such as Jackie O collected stackable bangles and kitschy pins. Sixty years later, the jewelry is making a serious comeback. Kentshire’s collection, which was amassed from private stashes, has drawn a crowd of serious collectors. “Bakelite and vintage costume jewelry A selection of provide immediate gratification to the Bakelite pieces at customer,” said Ellen Israel, co-owner of Bergdorf’s Kentshire at Bergdorf Goodman. “It just puts a smile on Kentshire counter. your face.”

ICE FACTORY: When two of the country’s largest diamond jewelry companies team up and forge a new one, all ears in the industry perk up. M. Fabrikant & Sons Ltd. has partnered with Leer Gem Ltd. and formed Fabrikant-Leer International. The entity is a jewelry company that aims to be one of the largest full-service suppliers in the industry. The firm intends to ensure factory-direct pricing for its consumers by way of both companies’ resources in production, merchandising and design. Fabrikant will continue to expand its private label and branded product lines as before.

GIULIANI GOES FOR GOLD: Former New York Mayor Rudolph Giuliani has been signed on to be the keynote speaker at the new JCK NYC Invitational show set for March 5-7. The show, which will be a venue for high-volume wholesalers, will be at the New York Hilton hotel. It has been said that there is a need for a concentrated trade show for larger retailers. As the event takes place in Manhattan, Giuliani will speak on leadership, security and general business principles and philosophies in relation to the city, as well as on the burgeoning jewelry industry. Representatives from Zale Corp., Macy’s East and Sears are scheduled to attend.

ARCTIC SHADES: Original Penguin, the apparel brand popular with golfers in the Fifties, is launching its first eyewear collection, to land in stores this spring. The collection is licensed by Baumvision, based in California. There are eight styles — three plastic and five metal — available in four different colors. Oversized acetate frames have a small gold penguin logo pattern on the temples, and metal aviators fold up compactly to fit in a shirt pocket. Retail prices for the line range from $125 to $140. It will be carried at specialty retailers such as Barneys New York, Disrespectacles and Fred Segal.

JEWELRY APPOINTMENTS: Just in time for the fine jewelry shows later this spring, Couture and VNU Expositions has promoted three executives. Nancy Robey has been named vice president of the VNU Jewelry Group, Mindy Fielman has been promoted to operations director and Lars Parker-Myers is now a couture account executive. Robey has been with the company for 11 years and will take on an expanded role in the leadership of the JA New York Shows, which include JA New York Winter and Summer and the JA Special Delivery Show. Fielman will oversee operational aspects of JA New York in addition to Couture and Signature Salons. Fielman and Robey will partner on all industry activities. Parker-Myers will be the primary contact for all customer service and assistance related to Couture, the Couture Pavilion at JA New York and the Couture Diamond Leadership Conference.

JEWELRY GIVES BACK: Three-hundred members of the jewelry industry gathered at the Hilton in New York recently to laud industry leaders Mary Forte and Gedalio “Gerry” Grinberg. The two were honored by the UJA-Federation of New York’s Diamond, Jewelry and Watch Division at its Annual Leadership Awards dinner and benefit. Forte, president and chief executive officer of the Zale Corp., was awarded the Leadership of Excellence Award for her contributions to the organization. “It’s such a wonderful organization, and you needn’t be Jewish to participate. They help all kinds of people,” said Forte, referring to the group’s original title as the United Jewish Appeal. Grinberg, founder and chairman of the Movado Group, received the Award for Humanitarian Excellence. Grinberg is an active member of the organization and a past division chair. Also at the event were Regine Basha, daughter of Aaron Basha; Stacie Orloff, president of Corum, and Benny Shabtai, president of Raymond Weil. WWDJewelry & Watches Pages 11-20 Being A Girl Fashion designers may be set on tomboyish looks for fall, but jewelers politely disagree. Fine jewelers are offering feminine, ladylike looks incorporating rose gold and girly motifs such as bows and butterflies. Here, a Harry Winston 18-karat rose gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl watch on a pearlized linen and leather strap, and an 18-karat gold, diamond and wood brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; STYLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI TURNER; STYLED BY DAVID PHOTO BY 12 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005

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JEWELRY & WATCHES

Three designers from varied backgrounds are making A Triple Play the moves on the fine jewelry and watch market.

MANOMETRO DASHA When deciding on a career, why choose just one? The word “dasha” is Greek for “gift from the gods,” and for Giuliano Mazzuoli, the Italian-born artist, race car some women, affordable semiprecious jewelry can be just driver and pen and notebook designer, can now add that. But until Cathy Pitts brought Dasha Boutique, her watchmaker to his résumé. line of handmade necklaces and earrings, to the market, Inspired by a pressure gauge, the clock towers of such a combination was difficult to find. Europe and his need for a watch that is both A Dasha A former business strategy consultant, Pitts sells beautiful and functional, Mazzuoli conceived the Boutique her line directly to consumers. As such, she is able to Manometro watch. bracelet. charge relatively affordable prices, such as $55 for “My criteria to put something into production is smoky topaz and aquamarine earrings that would that I must like it 100 percent,” Mazzuoli said. “I otherwise cost double elsewhere. Customers also never sell an object that I don’t like.” have the option to customize a particular piece. The watch has retro and modern elements. The But Pitts’ most useful marketing tool has been a thick steel case features a crown that is set at 2 string of cocktail parties held around the world. In o’clock. This is paired with a calfskin strap July 2003, she hosted her first one in New York at the handcrafted in Mazzuoli’s hometown, Florence, Italy. apartment of interior designer Celerie Kemble and her The round face is simple, with ticking lines around husband, Boykin Curry, a friend of Pitts from Harvard. the circumference. Color options include white, off- There, she made enough money to realize she could stop white, navy and black. The watches have Swiss her consultancy work and focus solely on jewelry, which movements, but are assembled in Italy. she had been doing on the side for the past 10 years. Now she The handmade watches are being kept exclusive hosts between four and eight events a month with anywhere worldwide. Manometro launched at the BaselWorld from 10 to 80 guests. In the last year, she’s traveled from her home base Watch & Jewelry Fair in Basel, Switzerland, in March PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY in San Francisco to New York, Chicago, Boston, Dublin and Copenhagen. and is in 25 doors throughout Europe and eight in Pitts, 38, attends every one of the events, and now customers have begun to ask if they can host their Japan. The watches are available only in two doors in own. The idea sounds like it could evolve into the modern Tupperware party, but Pitts is unsure whether the U.S. so far, including Govberg Jewelers at Boyds she will start to contract out her events. More likely, she’ll hire more Dasha Boutique employees to host Philadelphia and Chatel, in Carmel, Calif., where them in her absence. they retail for $3,500. The company intends to grow Pitts doesn’t have any ambitions to open a brick-and-mortar store yet. Instead, she sees growth in the distribution stateside slowly and methodically, increasing the number of parties per city per visit, as well as adding more 18-karat and gemstone pieces to although it already boasts celebrity wearers, her collection. She also is considering adding more categories, such as handbags, to her endeavor. If that including Russell Crowe and Roberto Cavalli. happens, though, it’s likely she’ll stick with jewelry and look to other vendors for other categories. “This watch relies on simplicity,” said Mazzuoli. “I wouldn’t want to dilute the message in terms of high quality and really attractive pricing,” she said. However, he added that there is a more complicated — Emily Holt project in the works: Mazzuoli is planning a collaboration with Italian carmaker Fiat, in which he is producing a watch to coincide with Fiat’s reintroduction of Alfa Romeos in the U.S. next year. A watch prototype, based on the tachometer of the S. AUFRICHTIG car, will be ready in September and is slated to Art and design are a natural relationship launch next year at Basel. for Sheryl Aufrichtig, a painter and “There was a time when I was only thinking of sculptor who just launched S. Aufrichtig, a pens, but now it’s watches,” said Mazzuoli. “I’m not S. Aufrichtig’s gold collection of gold, diamond and really a businessman; I am a creative type.” and pearl chandelier semiprecious jewelry that often features — Sophia Chabbott earrings. lace-like detailing. The artist has long had jewelry on the brain. “I [always] wanted to combine fashion and art,” she said. “I would have been a jewelry designer no matter what.” To create her intricate pieces, Aufrichtig, a self-taught metalsmith, uses the wax method of casting jewelry. But as for her exact creative formula, she said, “I’ll never reveal my secrets.” Signature styles include the Sarina cuff, a wide gold bracelet that is designed to look like a swatch of lace about the wrist; the Goddess necklace, a garland of delicately woven gold flowers, and the Loop earring, a chandelier silhouette that features woven gold dripping with freshwater pearls. Wholesale prices for the jewelry range from $190 to $7,000. Aufrichtig said the pieces appeal to a broad spectrum of consumers, noting that her clients range from celebrities such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Jennifer Aniston to a 90-year-old woman. “People get it on different levels, which is very satisfying to me,” she said. Aufrichtig added that 90 percent of her sales are from a self-purchasing customer, which is why she keeps her styles exclusive and her prices affordable. “It’s like buying a print blouse,” she said. “Women know they’ll like it and know they’ll wear it.” The collection is now in specialty stores including Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills, Michael Eigen in New York and independent jewelry retailers. She expects to hit $2 million in sales this year. The Manometro watch. — Marianne Hayes For Information call 212 239 1800 Available at Bloomingdales 14 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005

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JEWELRY & WATCHES

In BloomSpring has kept celebrities and socialites in full swing — and full regalia. Between the Costume Institute gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the film festival in Cannes and Cartier’s party for its Beverly Hills store, there has been no shortage of reasons to break out the good stuff. Diamonds, of course, got plenty of play, but bold-colored gems and stones crept into the spotlight, too. Big, long necklaces were a hit, as were showstopper earrings. The bottom line is that, bought or borrowed, fine jewelry is a red-carpet essential.

Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos

Lindsay Lohan Carolyn Murphy

They Are Wearing®

Aishwarya Rai

L’Wren Scott and Vera Wang Linda Evangelista

Scarlett Johansson Tori Spelling

Marjorie

Gubelmann Aerin Lauder Jessica Seinfeld Mellody Hobson Kristin Davis STEVE EICHNER JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE.COM; OTHERS BY BY SPELLING AND DAVIS STEPHANE FEUGERE; LOHAN, I AND JOHANSSON PHOTOS BY RA

16 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005

JEWELRY & WATCHES Generation XY Fine jewelers are revving up their men’s assortments in response to strengthening sales.

By Sophia Chabbott “Our [overall] business has had serious double- digit increases — men’s is 9 to 10 percent of that,” THE CULTURAL IMPACT OF “QUEER EYE Cartier said David Yurman. “Men have been so sup- for the Straight Guy” has influenced the way pressed by conservative culture, but by nature men think about and buy fine jewelry, as well men are more apt to dress up. [Men] have more of as clothes and beauty products. a flair. Just look at the animal kingdom — the Specialty department stores such as Neiman male peacock is the interesting color.” Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue have experienced Fine jewelry lost some of its connotation of femi- increases in demand for men’s jewelry in precious metal ninity when athletes like David Beckham and musi- and sterling silver. The trend is also encouraging fine jewelers to ex- cians, including Jay-Z, started wearing serious ice. pand their collections for male consumers. “People started to take notice when these successful business- Colby McWilliams, vice president of men’s fashion and merchandise men [started wearing diamonds],” said Nak Armstrong, co-designer of development at Neiman’s, said he has seen a significant increase in Anthony Nak. “It makes the concept of wearing jewelry other than a gold men’s jewelry business in the last five years. Me&Ro chain more acceptable.” “A lot of the collections for fall, like Dolce [& Gabbana], showed lots of Anthony Nak is launching a men’s line featuring its signature brightly jewelry with everything,” McWilliams said. “A lot of people are a little more colored faceted stones in chain-set metal work. flamboyant than they were — men are wearing velvet.” Jeweler Garrard has a significant men’s offering. McWilliams sees the resurgence of men’s jewelry as a reference to the late “Male figures in popular culture have definitely Sixties and early Seventies — the days of pinky rings and gold necklaces for paved the way,” said creative director Jade Jagger. men, which was an inspiration for the recent runway collections. “Role models in music and sport, who clearly Michael Macko, men’s fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, also notes a shift. love wearing jewelry, have raised the awareness. “It’s such an exciting time in men’s wear,’’ he said. “Part of it is Men have realized that jewelry and accessories because of magazines like Cargo, Vitals and Vogue Man, which Push by don’t necessarily equate with femininity.” is about to be launched. Men have more advice [on style] than Karen Karch Garrard’s pieces are striking yet wearable. A ever. There’s a new generation of [young] guys that have never white gold angel’s wing encrusted in white dia- worn cuff links and they think it’s the coolest thing.” monds is popular among men, as is a white gold Robert Burke, senior vice president for the fashion office ring with an extended line of pavé diamonds that and public relations of Bergdorf Goodman, said, “[We’ve ex- stretches across two fingers. With influences like her perienced] an increase in jewelry sales overall.” boyfriend, his friends and her pet guinea pigs, Jagger, Although the store does not offer many men’s necklaces based in Ibiza, Spain, is going forward with black pearls for men and bracelets, it does offer rare men’s vintage watches, like a in coming collections. Rolex with a bright red face, of which the store sold 28 last The NoLIta-based company Me&Ro has of- holiday season. Garrard fered men’s jewelry since it started in 1991, “I’m seeing a significant amount of designer jewelry that mostly in semiprecious beads with gold de- is becoming popular,” Burke said. “There’s a young designer tails. Robin Renzi, designer for Me&Ro, said customer who has not had the opportunity [to wear jewelry] her men’s business in Barneys New York and is doing so in a casual way.” John Hardy has doubled in the past two years. The category, once considered some- “Before it was superfluous ornamenta- what tacky or uncool, has transcended tion, now it’s modern, more like an from chunky gold ID bracelets and David Yurman amulet,” she said. onyx-laden rings to subtle beaded The jeweler now offers hand-beaded surfer necklaces and fine watches in necklaces of Peruvian opal, lapis lazuli and yellow and rose gold, bedecked with di- rutilated quartz. One of the firm’s signature amonds and precious stones. looks for men is a flat gold skull with diamonds The influence may have trickled in the eyes. down from the red carpet, said Stanislas “The overall men’s business has grown 50 percent,” de Quercize, president and chief executive Renzi said. “We sell $8,000 [men’s] rings.” officer of Cartier North America. Karen Karch, designer for Push, launched a men’s collection “Diamond watches are becoming more popular with earlier this month. men,” de Quercize said. “There was a huge reaction [for “All of a sudden, men are wearing Seven and Diesel jeans, and us] when Morgan Freeman, who is very elegant, wore a they look great,” said Karch. “Men are getting more like women Cartier diamond watch to the Oscars this year.” in their shopping. They want things to define their personali- He said Cartier has seen such an increase in requests for men’s ties. Jewelry is a way to enhance your individuality.” jewelry that it launched a Santos men’s jewelry line last September. Karch’s collection features hand-hammered gold rings The line includes bracelets, pendants, rings and cuff links in yellow gold Jacob & Co. with black rose-cut diamonds and other precious stones. and two-tone white that are based on the classic linear watch with its “It could be the next phase of the metrosexual,” screw-head details. Some pieces include colored stones. she said. Jacob Arabo, famous for draping the rich and famous in his hip- Sharon Buntain, ceo and president for North hop-inspired baubles, believes that men have always wanted to America of Links of London, said, “[We’ve experi- festoon themselves. enced] a 15 percent increase in men’s [jewelry] over the “About 10 years ago when I started a line of platinum and dia- past year.” mond men’s jewelry, everyone thought I was crazy,” Arabo said. Tiffany & Co. Buntain said the number of men’s products doubled for “Six years later, I couldn’t make enough.” fall, compared with this spring. Thirty-five percent of Jacob & Co.’s store inventory is men’s Mark Udell, owner of London Jewelers, said he is doubling the space for jewelry. The jeweler said he sells his outrageous watches and men’s jewelry throughout his stores to about 4 percent in time for this year’s jewelry to ceo’s, athletes and musicians. Some of the compa- holiday season. ny’s bestsellers are diamond crosses and diamond-encrusted “There’s a tremendous demand [among men] for something very inter- dog tags. esting,” Udell said. “It’s not just a heavy gold-link bracelet.” Tiffany & Co. is honing in on the men’s trend, as well. He said consumers are looking for unique designs and rare materials “Men want more options…to go beyond just wearing the ba- such as rose gold and titanium. sics, by accessorizing with bracelets, earrings, rings and neck- “I’m looking for that elegant European look — when you see a man on the laces,” said Melvyn Kirtley, group vice president of Tiffany. French or Italian Riviera wearing a beautiful watch and a really interesting Kirtley said Tiffany is increasing the amount of men’s jewelry bracelet,” Udell added. by adding new collections and continuing to create lines that John Hardy, whose men’s collection is up 25 percent in Neiman Marcus have components that work for men and women. and is also up 40 percent at Saks year-to-date, summed it up by saying adorn- David Yurman has had a men’s line for 15 years. The designer’s ing oneself, whether man or women, is a force of nature. 23-year-old son, Evan, heads up the men’s division. The younger “Wearing jewelry is elemental,” he said. “When you look at men of centuries Yurman recently incorporated black-and-white pavé diamonds, past, it was only in the 1950s when men stopped dressing up and accessorizing. leather and titanium, as well as colorful gemstones to the assortment. Now it’s back.” WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 17

WWD.COM A Woman’s Prerogative A Prince Swiss watchmakers are adding a feminine touch to their Gets Charmed men’s styles to cater to a growing market. MOST LUCKY CHARMS COST LESS than a dollar and are dispensed from dime-store vending machines. Prince By Robert Murphy Dimitri’s, however, are not. The New York-based jeweler has THE TIME FOR WOMEN’S WATCHES SEEMS TO introduced a line of watch charms have arrived. made from precious materials. They “Until recently, women didn’t really have much range from $400 for a gemstone bauble of a choice in the world of watches,” said Paul Ziff, to $1,400 for a pearl charm with dia- president of LVMH-owned Zenith in North America. mond detailing. “Basically, they could either wear a man’s mechani- “It’s the new look of luck,” he said. cal watch or a ladies battery-driven quartz watch.” The well-connected designer came Judging from the attention Swiss timepiece manufac- up with the idea after a friend of his turers devoted to women at the recent Basel and Geneva got one of her many bangles and watch and jewelry fairs, change is in the air. Ostensibly bracelets caught on her watch. driving the development is that women are buying more “It looked like these charms and men’s watches, especially oversized models. the idea just popped into my head,” he Manufacturers have responded to the trend by intro- said. “My number-one friend wearing ducing large models tailored to women, then adding bling, it right now is Sarah Ferguson, the such as diamond bezels, or mother-of-pearl faces and straps in Duchess of York.” colorful exotic skins. The charms come in a variety of “For a woman to wear a big watch has become a real fashion gemstones, with either gold or diamond statement,” said Mark Udell, co-owner of London Jewelers, which polkadots. They also can be custom-or- runs five stores in the U.S. “It definitely says something strong dered. Dimitri recently created a lapis about the lady and her personality.” lazuli charm to match the blue dial on a Udell estimated that 30 percent of the watches he sells to women customer’s Rolex. Shipments have ar- are designed as men’s pieces. rived to Neiman Marcus in San Fran- “Women want larger-case watches,” said Andrew Block, senior vice cisco and will slowly be delivered to president of marketing at Tourneau, which operates some 25 stores across other locations. the U.S. “In fact, we’ve seen a trend from the watch manufacturers toward The charms fit loosely over a metal referring to their watch by size — small, medium and large — instead of by gender.” bracelet or leather watch strap, but Corum, a high-end Swiss manufacturer, has started to operate along similar customers should not be worried lines. Chairman Severin Wunderman said some of the company’s recent creations, about losing stones if they’re flung such as watches with hand-painted enamel faces, “are sold to the tune of 75 per- around. Dimitri admitted he did re- cent to women.” cently break one of his charms by “That very large watches are in vogue today helps the situation,” Wunderman shoving his hand too quickly into his said. “But one of the reasons women are buying men’s watches is very simple: pocket, but insisted that his friends Women’s models are very few and only a minority of manufacturers is making them.” have not had any problems. Some manufacturers are going farther, betting women will be wooed by more — Emily Holt special features in watches such as perpetual calendars and chronographs. At Basel, Zenith even introduced a tourbillon, a sophisticated mechanical movement that compensates for the effect of gravity on time. It costs about $250,000. Agate, pearl For its part, Tag Heuer reported strong demand for its ladies chronographs, and and green Patek Philippe introduced an annual calendar for women that retailers praised. tourmaline Hank Edelman, president of Patek Philippe in North America, said he expects charms. women to buy more complicated watches, because people don’t only buy one watch, but think of them as one of many accessories in their wardrobe. “It’s also a question of knowledge and awareness,” he said. “A woman can be just an interested in a mechanical watch as a man. Women have been ignored in some regard.” Several retailers and manufacturers question whether women will take to compli- cated mechanical timepieces. “We believe the jury is still out regarding women’s acceptance of watch complica- tions,” Block said. “The sell-through on these watches isn’t as strong as in the men’s category.” Wunderman said, “Complications for women I feel will be very short-lived. Women pre- fer quartz pieces, which don’t need a person to be an engineer to make them Clockwise from top left: Patek Philippe’s new work. Also, $150,000 to $200,000 for a complication piece is a hard sell [for] a annual calendar for women; Corum’s Golden woman to get her husband to buy — at least in my world.” Bridge was designed for men, but is being Thomas Morf, chief executive officer of Carl F. Bucherer, said, “Ladies look purchased by women; Carl F. Bucherer has made at design first, then they look at the brand. They don’t care if its mechanical or larger women’s watches with plenty of bling. quartz. If it fits their style, those details matter little.” PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY

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JEWELRY & WATCHES The interior of Doyle & Doyle. A Fine Way Jewelers are bringing added sparkle to a once-seedy downtown New York thoroughfare.

By Ashley Baker DOYLE & DOYLE 189 ORCHARD STREET (212-677-9991) TWENTY YEARS AGO, DRUG-ADDLED TEENS, Although the impeccable Pam and Elizabeth Doyle fit starving artists and derelicts populated the Bowery. in perfectly with the coterie of hipsters flocking to the In true New York fashion, however, times have Lower East Side, these sisters possess an unexpected, changed. encyclopedic knowledge of jewelry, thanks to almost a Now the avenue in lower Manhattan is the nexus of decade as students and buyers of colored stones. In a burgeoning fine jewelry scene. To the east of the 2000, the sisters invoked their knowledge to fuel their Bowery are boutiques filled with custom-made and passion: collecting antique and estate jewelry. antique baubles. To the west, emerging trendsetters At their boutique, Doyle & Doyle, everything have unloaded their jewels in NoLIta’s charming from 19th-century micromosaic pendants to Art retail spaces. Deco engagement rings are lovingly encased in Many of the designers who have set up shop here glass. Much of their extensive collection remains in are attracted to the fierce independence found in this the safe until a savvy buyer makes a special request. neighborhood, especially as the retailing area of the One such client is Natalie Portman, a local resident Meatpacking District increasingly becomes a circus. who relies on the Doyle sisters to build her own Here, a roundup of newcomers to the scene: collection, as well as furnish birthday gifts for friends and family. PUSH 240 MULBERRY STREET (212-965-9699) EXHIBITIONIST Jewelry designer Karen Karch has a Midas touch. 177 ORCHARD STREET (212-375-1530) Upon opening her boutique on Mulberry Street in In the weeks following Sept. 11, 2001, partners Sloan 1996 after several years of selling at Barneys New Mandell and Michael Spirito did something unusual: York and Nordstrom, she augmented her collection of They opened a business downtown. Their jewelry, sterling silver pieces with styles in gold and precious which encompasses the realms of fine and costume, is metals. Both her store and the new collection took the characterized by a touch of the Gothic and includes downtown jewelry scene by storm, attracting fans spires, thorns and even the occasional skull. with high style and celebrity status who took to Despite the stylistic simpatico between store and Karch’s decidedly individual pieces. Her men’s neighborhood, the team moved to the Lower East Side jewelry line, launched in late 2004, has also earned a with an economic motive. “We wanted the most money serious following, mostly from the artists and for our space, and we didn’t want to jump on an musicians who populate the area’s streets. already-moving bus,’’ Mandell said. “Now, we’re an anchor of the neighborhood.” JILL PLATNER 113 CROSBY STREET (212-324-1298) A selection of It sounds impossible to call an enclave spacious, but necklaces at that’s exactly what Jill Platner has achieved with her Jill Platner. first retail outlet. In it, a gargantuan sculpture hangs from a sky-high ceiling, and limited-edition necklaces dangle, gallery-style, from a crocheted netting. “All my Bittar, Lee Angel and Ben Amun offer alternatives to jewelry is very sculptural,” explained Platner, “so it’s a carefully edited assemblage of fine jewelry lines a mock-up of one of my jewels.” such as SeidenGang and Penny Preville. Platner, a native of Massachusetts who has been selling her sterling silver wares at Barneys New York ME&RO since her days as a student at Parsons, opened the 241 ELIZABETH STREET (917-237-9215) store in 2000. She ventured into the realm of fine Robin Renzi and Michele Quan met in the 1980s when jewelry in 2002 when she began fashioning pieces they were waitresses at the restaurant Indochine. from 19-karat gold. Nearly 20 years later, their collaborative jewelry line Me&Ro is revered for subtle, feminine pieces featuring BESS serious gemstones such as rose-cut diamonds and Basra 259 ELIZABETH STREET (212-260-6740) pearls. To augment its thriving wholesale business, In 2004, Doug Abraham opened the fine jewelry store Me&Ro arrived on Elizabeth Street in 1999 only to Bess, named for his wife Elizabeth and, move to a larger space next door in 2003. appropriately enough, occupying a darling space on A floating flower pond occupies the space Elizabeth Street. Clients range from locals to the commonly used for a front window, a device that couple’s children, Eli, four, and Kaia, two. They all entices the parade of well-heeled passersby to peruse fawn over Abraham’s geometric designs of lapis, its cases. amazonite, chalcedony and a mélange of other unusual gemstones. “Because there are so many JELENA BEHREND jewelry stores in the neighborhood, I’m inspired to 188 ORCHARD STREET (212-995-8497) do something different,” Abraham said. “I hope that “I was first inspired by the work of gypsies, who do more stores come.” one-of-a-kind pieces in my country, Serbia,” said jewelry designer Jelena Behrend. THE YELLOW DOOR Her styles, which are also influenced by childhood 4 PRINCE STREET (212-274-0020) recollections and the classicism of ancient Greece, Sallee Bijou opened a giftware and jewelry shop in are dreamed up and cast by the designer herself. She Brooklyn in 1964, and The Yellow Door, as she called even casts the smallest of chain links. When it comes it, soon inspired Manhattanites to venture across the to her forte — custom pieces — she relinquishes East River. Luckily for them, the commute is no aesthetic control to her client. longer necessary. Bijou opened another outpost on “I give them complete freedom,” she said. When Prince Street last November. After her death in Behrend is not jetting to Los Angeles to service her January, Bijou’s daughter Luna Zemmol took over the celebrity fans, her boutique on the Lower East Side, A gemstone necklace at Bess. managerial duties. Midrange designs from Alexis which bowed in 1998, is open by appointment only. MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 19

WWD.COM

A fashion-forward and international clientele is making this Florida city a hot spot for fine jewelers

Miami Ice ▲ A ring from divisions. Since Miamians appreciate color, there will Cartier’s colorful be rare emeralds and rubies and interesting variations Delices de Goa of diamonds in pink or blue. collection, which has Cartier president and chief executive officer Stanislas been a bestseller de Quercize said the company has always had an affinity in Miami. for Floridians, evident through its sixth retail venture in the state, a boutique in Naples, opening this year. “There’s a fit between us,” he said. “They like our

sunny yellow gold and beautiful stones. It’s a fun, so- ▲ Harry Winston cial place, which is what we are.” will include its The store in Bal Harbour Shops Avenue C Chrono opened 26 years ago and was renovat- watch, along with ed in 2004. Miami’s bestsellers are other selections Cartier watches, favored by Latin- from its watch os, said de Quercize, less formal division, in its jewelry and colored stones such as new store in the those used for the Meli Melo and Bal Harbour Bulgari’s Miami boutique. Inset: Bulgari Delices de Goa collections, which re- Shops. earrings from its new Sapphire Flower tail for between $3,900 and $36,000. Collection, which was launched with a “[Miami residents] embrace new- cocktail party in Miami. ness quicker than in other places,” he said. By Rebecca Kleinman A Palm Beach mainstay since the Sixties, Van Cleef & Arpels wasn’t at- MIAMI SAYS BRING ON THE BLING. tracted to Miami until 2000, when it From fetes hosted by jewelry houses to the also opened in Bal Harbour Shops. The opening of Harry Winston at Bal Harbour two stores’ customers are different, said Shops in Bal Harbour, Fla., the fine jewelry Nathalie Guedj, president and ceo of market is complying with the city’s transfor- Van Cleef & Arpels. mation into a world-class destination. “Palm Beach is very American and Bulgari’s cocktail party and performance by opera Caucasian, while Bal Harbour is 50 percent American singer Sasha Lazard to introduce its Sapphire Flower and 50 percent international tourists who just don’t go Collection here in April was held in the up-and-com- to Palm Beach,” Guedj said. “Even the Americans are ing Wynwood neighborhood, but it announced that different in both places, though.” Miami has already arrived on the company’s radar. Guedj said Miami, with its glitzy nature, took to the “The market was hungry for the brand,” said a jewelry immediately. With the exception of brooches, Bulgari spokeswoman. “It was an immediate success which are more popular in other markets, such as with both the local and South American clientele.” New York, and the Frivole collection of yellow gold, di- The company operates a store in Bal Harbour amonds and patent leather, which performs better in Shops. There is also a shop-in-shop at Saks Fifth Miami, she said merchandise generally sells at the ▲ Pendants from Chopard’s Happy Spirit Collection. Avenue in Dadeland Mall in Miami. same pace throughout all locations. “The customer is generally younger here — both in “We have a very refined Latin crowd in Miami age and attitude,” said the spokeswoman. “[They are] that’s into jewelry at a higher level than many a fashion-forward mix of Latinos, Europeans and lo- Americans,” said Guedj. cals, many with dual residences in the Northeast or Scott Maroon, Florida boutiques manager for South America.” Chopard, also observed a heightened interest in pricy Jim Seuss, president of Harry Winston, said the jewelry in Miami, compared with the other six U.S. company chose Miami over other locales, including cities where the company has stores. Palm Beach, to open its ninth store in order to reach a “Maybe it’s the whole South Beach hype and the new audience that participates in sophisticated events free-spirited lifestyle here, but there’s definitely more such as Art Basel. excitement,” he said. “Miami has that vibrant, international market we Taking advantage of a weak dollar, more Europeans look for,” he said, adding that it has an existing busi- have been joining the summer surge of Latin ness in Palm Beach through private sales visits. American tourists who shop at Chopard year-round. Slated to open in November, Harry Winston’s 1,000- Maroon also attributed Bal Harbour Shops’ luxury sta- square-foot Bal Harbour Shops store will carry the en- tus as a huge coup for fine jewelry. tire collection, including the full bridal and watch “It provides a setting that speaks for itself,” he said. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Miami store. 20 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005

JEWELRY & WATCHES

De Beers’ A Light Touch Sparkle ring. Anew artistic director is making her mark on De Beers.

By Samantha Conti Hilton, Brett Ratner, Cozmo latticework of diamond charms. Jenks, Bay Garnett, Gaban Canot defied convention and re- DESIGNER RAPHAELE CANOT ISN’T ONE FOR O’Keefe, Sophia Swire and Zara fused to overtreat the white gold. As a fancy finishings. Simon, drank pink champagne and result, the tone of the gold is darker and In her first season as artistic director of De Beers nibbled on cocktail sausages, tomato warmer than normal. LV, the high-end diamond jewelry joint venture be- canapés and small coconut shrimp. “In the Nineties, jewelers started coating the tween the South African trading company and LVMH Anthony Oppenheimer, a director of De gold to make it look as white as possible. Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, she has taken a natural Beers, said his family’s company was committed There’s no point in hiding the true approach and chosen lightness as her theme. The col- to the jewelry business, despite the usual bumps color of the gold. I think that look is lection is called Radiance. along the way. over,” she said, laughing, during a “I started from the De Beers identity: diamonds. “Bond Street is difficult all around because the recent walk-through of the new col- What are they about? Light, radiance, sparkle, happi- dollar is so weak and there are so few U.S. tourists lection at the flagship. ness, a playful mood,” said Canot, who last now,” he said. “But the stores in Japan are doing very Canot also has introduced col- September joined De Beers LV from Cartier, where well, and the reason we waited to open in New York ored diamonds into the collection she was jewelry creative director. “So I wanted the was to ensure that everything was fine-tuned, which in an array of brown, pink, yellow collection to reflect an inner radiance — a glow — it is. This business is going to take time to grow. It’s and orange stones for rings, neck- and I wanted the light to blow outward.” about getting in there with all the established brands laces and earrings. Last week, Canot and De Beers LV chief executive and hopefully climbing over them.” Prices range from $920, or 500 pounds, for a gold officer Guy Leymarie were hosts of a cocktail party at In the new collection, the diamonds are tension- band with a single diamond to over a million pounds, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London to show- set and sit like droplets of spring water inside white or $1.8 million, for one-off items. The average prices case the collection. It’s now selling at De Beers LV’s gold frames. The little pendants link together to form in the collection range from $3,680, or 2,000 pounds, flagship at Piccadilly and Bond Street, and will be necklaces, dangle like charms from rings and inter- to $9,200, or 5,000 pounds. available at the company’s first Manhattan unit, which lock to create a latticework shape for medallions and Canot said her job couldn’t be more different from opens next month at Fifth Avenue and 55th Street. necklace charms. the one she held at Cartier. For the cocktail party, the V&A’s Raphael Cartoon Key styles are playful and include a flower ring “Cartier is all about history. Here, it’s about the fu- Gallery was filled with trees festooned with red ap- with a clump of flexible petals made from the dia- ture and establishing a brand identity,” she said. “At ples and dripping with glittering faux jewels. The real mond pendants; rings with diamond-studded discs the same time, I think jewelry is something really in- stuff, meanwhile, sparkled from behind glass cases. that can spin around; a necklace featuring spheres, timate, and each piece should feel like it’s always Guests, including Anthony and Antoinette like gumballs, that are studded with diamonds, and been a part of a woman’s life. So I never, ever want it Oppenheimer, Emily Oppenheimer, Rick and Kathy showstopping medallions constructed from a flexible to look brand-new.” Fabergé Hatches Two New Collections FABERGE, THE 163-YEAR-OLD COMPANY BEST KNOWN for its gold, enamel and precious stone-encrusted Easter eggs, has launched two limited-edition jewelry collections. The first is a bridal line to premiere next week at the Couture, Signature Salons by Couture and JCK trade shows in Las Vegas. The collection consists of five styles that incorporate the German jeweler’s signature enamel detailing, mostly employing guilloche, in which translucent enamels are fused over a re- cessed design in precious metal with geometric patterns incised into the gold base. The technique dates back to the 12th century and is rarely used by jewelers who typically paint on the lacquer. Many of the engagement rings feature an egg motif, referenc- ing Fabergé’s signature objects of art that were favored by the 17th-century czars of Russia and European royalty and continue to be made in limited numbers, selling for upward of $100,000. “We had the demand for bridal jewelry,” said Marcus O. Mohr, president of Victor Mayer GmbH & Co., which owns Fabergé. “Fabergé did engagement rings in the 1900s.” Continuing in the tradition of the company, one ring in platinum has modern lines and a four-prong setting with the underside of the stone set in a royal blue enamel cup. Another in yellow gold has two ribbons of orange enamel on either side with swirling gold-leaf insets. Retail prices for the bridal collection start from $5,000 and go as high as $160,000. The second line is an addition to the Signature Collection, which is a youthful direction for the brand. Launched at the BaselWorld Watch & Jewelry Show in Basel, Switzerland, last month, and coming soon to the U.S., it fea- tures miniature jeweled and brightly col- ored enamel egg pendants with easy-to- use hinges that invite consumers to create their own combinations in A platinum charm bracelets and necklaces. A and diamond standout is a bracelet with more ring with blue than 50 pastel-hued egg charms in enamel. yellow gold. Charm bracelets start at $4,000 retail. Fabergé jewelry is sold in 40 coun- tries. The company looks to soon ex- pand distribution into China and Taiwan. — Sophia Chabbott WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2005 21 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE WWDCOMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 RETAILERS 59.98 27.42Abercrombie Abercrombie & & Fitch Fitch 22.2 186079 54.49 -2.36 35.10 22.82Aeropostale Aeropostale 17.5 54465 26.22 0.28 30.45 13.07American American Eagle Eagle Outfits 16.1 154085 26.64 0.52 30.34 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 38.2 59761 25.66 1.51 37.08 11.45Bebe Bebe 39.5 18870 36.24 1.74 S&P 500 3.59 1.20Bluefly Bluefly - 4137 1.45 0.11 19.78 9.84Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 13.2 2893 17.48 -0.32 30.18 17.42Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 11.7 4710 29.92 1.95 18.53 10.90Cache Cache 17.6 5081 13.10 1.32 33.40 20.02Cato Cato 16.3 5105 27.15 1.20 22.24 8.84Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 24.3 9438 10.77 0.09 9.64 6.23Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 14.9 50726 8.89 1.22 31.71 16.91Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 40.1 80109 31.44 2.50 50.27 16.77Children’s Children's Place Place 29.4 65911 46.79 2.46 55.50 38.61CVS CVS 23.3 117704 55.00 1.29 31.35 22.05Deb Deb Shops Shops 20.7 2529 30.00 2.07 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 28.60 18.30Dillard’s Dillard's 18.2 30943 25.29 1.54 22.80 17.44Dollar Dollar General General 21.0 92206 22.01 1.24 20.75 15.19Dress Dress Barn Barn 20.0 10054 18.73 1.24 59.21 30.78eBay eBay 57.4 727836 36.56 1.50 35.25 23.68Family Family Dollar Dollar 18.3 73771 26.92 2.79 69.05 42.80Federated Federated 16.7 174490 68.86 5.61 29.95 19.97Foot Foot Locker Locker 15.3 44491 26.50 1.96 25.72 18.12Gap Gap 17.1 274158 21.46 0.86 1/14 1/28 2/11 2/25 3/25 4/22 5/6 5/20 12.40 7.35Goody’s Goody's 42.2 7638 7.67 -0.01 12.45 3.85Gottschalks Gottschalks 23.8 2661 9.81 -0.23 18.34 11.58Guess Guess 20.5 15521 16.43 1.07 2.80 0.95Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 553 1.82 -0.08 23.49 13.85Hot Hot Topic Topic 25.5 65819 22.24 2.87 53.44 33.69J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 19.3 152485 50.67 3.01 54.00 41.02Kohl’s Kohl's 22.5 93001 49.15 1.57 WWD STOCK INDEX RALLIES 27.89 18.34Limited Limited Brands Brands 14.6 207123 20.89 0.46 38.66 23.04May May Dept. Dept. Stores Stores 23.8 186623 38.50 1.75 23.31 11.58Mothers Mothers Work Work 20.1 2352 12.32 -2.16 NEW YORK — With oil prices hovering at $47 a barrel and inflation held at bay — at least for now 100.98 48.93Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus 20.6 29697 95.95 1.55 24.41 14.76New New York York & & Co. Co. 50.5 8956 18.80 0.71 — investors enjoyed the biggest four-day rally in six months. Each major index finished the week 60.00 36.06Nordstrom Nordstrom 19.3 77549 59.90 5.45 with hefty gains of roughly 3 percent. 29.05 17.25Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 15.0 76304 20.99 -0.74 As a result, the WWD Composite Stock Index climbed 3.27 percent over the week to close at 46.88 33.86Regis Regis 26.7 8743 37.50 1.14 1,113.03 on Friday from 1,077.81 the prior week. The S&P 500 increased 3.05 percent over the 11.62 6.02Retail Retail Ventures Ventures - 6798 10.70 0.32 31.37 20.95Ross Ross Stores Stores 23.7 58115 27.70 2.28 week to end at 1,189.28. 19.27 11.61Saks Saks 39.4 87123 17.34 0.48 Federal Reserve chairman Alan Greenspan said that energy will “remain central” to the econo- 149.50 47.79Sears Sears 11.6 154321 142.83 5.70 my’s health, in a speech at the Economic Club of New York on Friday afternoon. Retail analysts 26.70 12.51ShopKo ShopKo 15.9 33481 23.57 0.30 42.50 31.22Stage Stage Stores Stores 13.7 12638 38.48 -0.10 have linked rising oil prices with this spring’s soft sales. Growing private inventories of crude oil in 26.47 13.43Stein Stein Mart Mart 28.6 15303 24.98 3.15 the U.S. helped moderate prices, Greenspan said. 14.08 7.69Syms Syms 92.9 663 12.60 0.02 Also bolstering Wall Street’s confidence was a gain in the Consumer Price Index, which jumped 39.82 24.11Tal Talbotsbots 16.4 23628 29.25 1.40 54.14 40.03Tar Targetget 23.7 268776 51.89 3.40 0.5 percent in April — higher than expected. But the core CPI was unchanged, which means little 26.82 20.64TJX TJX Cos. 18.5 108326 23.51 0.84 or no inflation. 6.69 1.77United United Retail Retail Group Group - 539 5.04 -0.06 Tempering investor optimism were several analyst reports on Friday that predicted an invento- 53.48 22.95Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 42.7 66372 52.93 2.22 57.89 46.20W Wal-Martal-Mart 19.1 674199 47.18 0.05 ry glut in the teen denim segment for the back-to-school season. Excess inventory levels or longer 7.10 0.69We Wett Seal Seal - 21108 3.46 0.23 inventory turns can reduce gross margin rates. 6.75 2.44Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather 4.3 5369 5.43 0.26 Over the the past few years, retailers have worked to improve their inventory positions. If the 31.74 24.59Zale Zale 14.6 27872 30.85 2.12 VENDORS denim glut occurs, investors fear profits at certain retailers could be negatively impacted. 56.31 41.61Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 20.8 31093 45.21 2.37 Reflecting sector-wide concerns over inventory, Emanuel Weintraub Associates is holding a 46.65 36.08Avon Avon 22.0 122945 41.06 2.41 seminar called “Supply Chain/Speed-to-Market” on June 14 at the Princeton Club in New York. 26.76 18.15Benetton Benetton 25.7 674 19.21 0.61 37.87 22.70Cherokee Cherokee 17.7 1965 34.62 0.88 The session will cover product development, production and distribution, and will feature sec- 29.98 17.99Coach Coach 31.3 98971 29.35 1.24 tor leaders such as Peter Longo, president of logistics at Federated Department Stores; Chuck 62.18 41.90Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 13.0 17330 44.64 0.77 Gilreath, senior vice president of sourcing and systems at Saks Department Store Group; Rob 26.50 17.60Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden - 8257 21.79 0.97 Birkins, senior vice president of sourcing at Sears Holdings Corp., and Trudy Sullivan, executive 49.34 36.84Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 21.6 73839 40.04 3.04 32.37 18.90Fossil Fossil 15.1 22720 21.01 1.18 vice president of Liz Claiborne. 9.45 5.69G-III G-III 75.1 70 7.45 0.10 — Fahmida Y. Rashid 43.20 34.83IFF IFF 18.7 19327 38.00 1.32 25.68 11.32Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 22.7 3128 18.37 -0.12 40.00 29.07Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 13.5 42132 32.03 0.68 45.10 24.40Kellwood Kellwood 10.2 11226 26.00 1.31 34.98 24.66Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 16.6 2488 29.64 0.54 43.82 32.09Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 13.0 34299 37.92 0.78 WWDStock Market Index 4.50 2.67Mossimo Mossimo 20.5 296 4.36 0.15 Weekly % Changes Ending Sept. 20 19.80 12.99Movado Movado 16.1 2778 17.18 1.06 92.43 65.83Nike Nike 18.7 123598 82.09 5.64 45.14 33.34Oxford Oxford 12.6 10231 34.24 -0.33 Composite: Retailers: Vendors: 25.56 18.20Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 8.5 2752 19.32 -0.16 1113.03 1079.56 1300.59 Largest Gainers Largest Losers 29.95 17.04Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 24.0 11121 28.68 1.62 42.83 31.01Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 15.4 18410 37.52 2.12 Close Change Close Change 18.12 9.63Quiksilver Quiksilver 20.5 45798 15.20 0.73 Charming Shpps 8.89 15.91 Mothers Work 12.32 -14.92 46.30 31.25Reebok Reebok 12.7 35139 41.26 0.32 3.45 1.96Revlon Revlon 95.3 33064 2.89 -0.01 Hot Topic 22.24 14.82 True Religion 13.30 -5.34 19.78 15.79Russell Russell 12.3 7371 18.54 1.11 35.22 31.77 57.75 Steinmart 24.98 14.43 Harold’s Stores 1.82 -4.21 2.70 0.71Tarr Tarrantant - 9937 1.61 -0.03 15.64 8.47To Tommymmy Hilfiger Hilfiger 9.3 20423 10.91 0.41 Family Dollar 26.92 11.56 Abcmbie & Fitch 54.49 -4.15 15.20 0.65Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 37.6 25330 13.30 -0.75 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices Cache 13.10 11.21 Pacific Sunwear 20.99 -3.41 60.74 43.77VF VF Corp. Corp. 12.6 24959 55.57 0.45 of Dec. 31, 2002. 25.84 17.57Wa Warnacornaco 19.6 12005 22.17 0.60 22 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 Coty Expands Globally With Unilever Unit

Continued from page one the men’s scent Crave in Bernd leader,” and the Calvin Klein brand will play a September 2002, which is no Beetz and major part. The Coty ceo said that he has strong longer produced. Sources estimat- Jennifer European brands and that Klein will provide “the ed that Euphoria would do $35 The Vera Lopez linchpin” of a global power because of its strong Wang million to $40 million at retail in presence in markets around the world. Coty is ex- fragrance. the U.S. in its first year. A men’s pected to log annual sales of about $2 billion when its counterpart of Euphoria is expect- fiscal year ends June 30. With the addition of the ac- ed sometime in 2006. quired brands, which do more than $600 million in Tom Murry, president and estimated volume, it is anticipated that Coty may chief operating officer of Calvin reach total sales of $3 billion within the next Klein Inc., said earlier this month two years. that the Calvin Klein color cos- The Unilever business brings a portfolio of metics brand will be relaunched designer fragrances — Calvin Klein, Cerruti, in fall 2006 with a partner other Vera Wang, Chloé and Lagerfeld. Each will than Unilever Cosmetics become part of Lancaster Group International. Unilever had start- Worldwide, the prestige division of Coty, ed the line in 2000 in a narrow which houses megawatt brands such as lineup of doors — about 120 glob- Jennifer Lopez, Marc Jacobs, Kenneth ally — and phased it out in 2003. Cole and Nautica. “CK1 is a huge international Coty is already the top player in [hit] and that could give Lancaster mass-market fragrance, with hits such a great lift,” said industry consult- as Celine Dion, Mary-kateandashley, ant Allan Mottus. “Even though Adidas and Stetson. The acquisition Jennifer Lopez does well in the will give Coty the critical mass in the States and a few European mar- prestige segment to match its strengths kets, this deal will give Coty more in mass, Beetz said. With a stronger leverage to bring those brands lineup covering all distribution chan- into the international markets in a nels and extended geographic reach, significant way.” Coty is poised to go after industry behe- As for Vera Wang, which was launched as a signature moths, namely L’Oréal, Estée Lauder and women’s scent in 2002, Unilever expanded the offering with Procter & Gamble. Shania Vera Wang for Men in January 2004, and in April, with “In addition to making Coty a leading player Twain Sheer Veil, a limited-edition fragrance. in a highly fragmented industry, this acquisition Meanwhile, Chloé, which is among France’s hippest fashion will move us closer to our longer-term goal of labels, juiced up Unilever’s fragrance wardrobe with being among the top five beauty companies in Chloé Collection 2005, a limited-edition women’s scent the world,” Beetz said in a statement. that is expected to sell through August in about 5,000 Under the terms of the deal, Coty will make doors globally. deferred payments to Unilever based on the In July 2003, Unilever chairman Niall FitzGerald iden- sales performance of the Calvin Klein fragrances tified prestige fragrances as one of its businesses that over the next 10 years. was failing to meet the company’s standards and were The stipulation, which Unilever said could holding back sales growth. “These businesses are ‘on generate $100 million or more, ensures the con- watch’; they are not up for sale,” he said at the time, also sumer goods company benefits from its previous referring to frozen foods and household care. “These investment in the brand, a Unilever spokesman businesses are not performing up to standard. If they said. Since 2003, Unilever has worked to freshen don’t step up and meet our targets, we will look for alter- its fragrance offering, introducing scents such as native solutions. But these businesses should be well ca- Vera Wang for Men, CerrutiSí, and Calvin Klein pable of meeting our standards.” Eternity Moment. That same month, Valentino ended its fragrance and “Coty has the scale and resources to develop cosmetics licensing deals with Unilever, a relationship the business to the next level,” said the between the companies that dated to the Eighties. It was spokesman, adding that the divestiture will allow announced soon afterward that P&G would pick up the Unilever to focus on building its core businesses. Valentino fragrance business. Unilever’s battalion of personal care brands in- The fevered pitch of today’s fragrance launches, cludes Dove, Ponds and Axe. from players such as Unilever, Lauder and Coty, has For Coty, the deal furthers its strategy to in- not subsided. Although the launches haven’t resulted in crease prestige sales in the U.S., Beetz said dur- category growth, consolidation could breed better op- ing a news conference Friday. He added that erating efficiencies. “The industry has gone from Unilever’s fragrance portfolio will also reinforce ridiculous to sublime in the distribution channels of the company’s presence in Europe and give it a high-end fragrances,” Mottus said. “If you have fewer stronger foothold in Asia. The Americas and companies handling the distribution and squeezing out Europe accounted for 89 percent of Coty’s total the excesses, they can make the business profitable sales in 2003, while Asia and the rest of the world IMAGE JEFFREY MAYER/WIRE PHOTO BY again.” generated the remaining 11 percent. Mottus continued, “You’re talking about just a couple In addition to the fragrance licenses, Coty will of fragrance players now: Estée Lauder, L’Oréal, P&G acquire a manufacturing and distribution center and Coty and maybe a few more. That makes a lot more in Mt. Olive, N.J., and a distribution center in sense than 12 players in terms of efficiency.” Lille, France. In Beetz’s view, the acquisition builds on the success The deal marks the second major coup for Coty has achieved over the last several years. He added Coty since Beetz joined the company four years Calvin Klein’s Eternity Moment. that since 2001, the company has reignited growth in its ago. In May 2003, the chief executive expanded fragrance business across three platforms: designer, the firm’s prestige stable when he added the lifestyle and celebrity. During his tenure Beetz reported that the firm has experi- beauty licenses of designers Marc Jacobs and enced double-digit sales growth. Kenneth Cole to Lancaster’s portfolio. The company is in the midst of publicizing a turbo-charged launch schedule for Given Beetz’s penchant for building global fall, which so far in the U.S. includes Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker, Kimora Lee fragrance franchises, Calvin Klein offers the Simmons’ Baby Phat Goddess, Shania by Stetson, a Kenneth Cole scent and the greatest promise. Industry sources estimate that launch of David Beckham’s first fragrance in Europe. it accounted for about $525 million of the In an interview last fall, Beetz declared, “We believe in brands, and we believe in Unilever unit’s more than $600 million in sales. them for the long term. [In today’s market] there is too much in-and-out marketing.” Unilever has put elbow grease into its brand Thus far, Coty has managed to avoid the pitfalls that sometimes come with celebri- portfolio, as it prepared to spin off the division. ties by inking deals with personalities deemed to have staying power and turning In February 2004, Unilever signed actress their high-profile names into fragrance franchises. Scarlett Johansson to serve as the spokes- For instance, Coty has created three fragrances for Jennifer Lopez and three for woman for the Calvin Klein brand. She kicked Celine Dion. A fourth scent for Lopez is reportedly in the works. off the partnership by appearing in ads for The firm has also broken through cultural barriers and entered uncharted territo- Eternity Moment. Sarah ries, pulling new customers in along the way. The most notable example of that strate- Its latest women’s scent, Euphoria Calvin Jessica gy is Baby Phat Goddess scent. “Hip-hop was too big for us to ignore,” said John Klein, is to launch globally in September. It is Parker Galantic, president of Coty U.S., at a recent industry conference. billed as the first major brand introduction since — With contributions from Pete Born WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 23 WWD.COM Clarins to Get Everlast Line NEW YORK — Clarins Frag- rance Group has won U.S. distribution rights for yet-to- be launched Everlast fra- grance and grooming prod- ucts. The move comes after Clarins said last week that it would distribute ITF fra- grances in the U.S. As with the ITF scents, Clarins will start as the offi- cial distributor of Everlast fragrance and grooming products on Jan. 1. Everlast’s first fragrance launch, a men’s scent, has been slated for spring 2006. Everlast Worldwide Inc., the 95-year-old apparel and sporting goods marketer here, announced in 2003 a worldwide fragrance licens- ing agreement with France- based PAC Paris. PAC Paris was founded by Etienne de Aerin Lauder and Gwyneth Paltrow Swardt and Laurent Jugeau, who also founded Dog Generation, a Paris-based beauty marketer. PAC Paris has worked with Givaudan to develop Everlast fragrance and grooming products and Paltrow Signs With Lauder is seeking further world- wide distribution opportu- By Bryn Kenny and Pete Born Testino and art directed by Lauder and creative consultant Doug nities for the Everlast fra- Lloyd. Lauder described the Pleasures campaign as a relaunch of grance brand. NEW YORK — A month after recruiting Tom Ford, Estée Lauder the brand. Terms of the distribution global brand president John Demsey has snatched another bold- Demsey described Pleasures as Lauder’s global fragrance mas- deal were not disclosed. faced name — Gwyneth Paltrow. ter brand. Lauder executives did not talk numbers, but industry Everlast chairman and The Oscar-winning star will appear as a spokeswoman for the sources estimate that the Pleasures franchise still generates more chief executive George Estée Lauder brand, first in a new print and TV campaign for the than $100 million at wholesale. The Pleasures campaign could cost Horowitz called Clarins, 10th anniversary of the Pleasures fragrance brand, then Lauder an estimated $8 million to $10 million, according to industry which also handles Thierry makeup and, finally, as the face of a new fragrance product next sources, who speculate that Paltrow might earn $3 million for an Mugler, Azzaro and Stella spring, a new version of White Linen. unspecified period. Cadente fragrances, “a great Since taking the helm of the Lauder brand in Paltrow joins the current faces of Estée Lauder, company with excellent mar- January, Demsey has been on a mission to freshen BEAUTY BEAT models Liya Kebede, Carolyn Murphy and Elizabeth keting and distribution the image of the once-dominant brand, and Hurley, all of whom will continue to represent the strengths.” Paltrow seems well cast for the effort. brand across the makeup, skin care and Ben Gillikin, president of “Gwyneth has been on our radar screen fragrance categories. Hurley, the original Clarins Fragrance Group, for many years,” Demsey said Friday, Pleasures model, will become the face of said, “The [Everlast] brand’s adding that she is the personification of the company’s Re-Nutriv skin care line; ads image conveys a sense of the brand’s values: “She’s talented. She’s will hit later this year. Demsey noted that strength and individuality serious. She’s beautiful. She’s a mother, Re-Nutriv, which is estimated by sources to and adds a completely new and she’s respected in her craft.” still do $150 million globally, was one of the and exciting dimension to For her part, Paltrow, 32, talks like a industry’s original premium-priced skin our existing portfolio of fra- Lauder fan. care brands when it was launched in 1958. grances. Everlast is a per- “It’s an American beauty icon,” she said Demsey has wasted no time in making fect brand for a fragrance in an interview. “I always liked the self- his mark on the 59-year-old company since and grooming line.” made nature of Estée Lauder herself.” taking over as global brand president in — Matthew W. Evans Paltrow said the company’s recent January. He lured in Thia Breen from revamping has made the brand more Federated Department Stores to become palatable to younger consumers. She North American president and Andrea remembers being struck by the fresh, Robinson of Ralph Lauren fragrances for clean look of a Carolyn Murphy makeup ad the new position of chief marketing officer. at a bus stop. In addition, he inked a multimillion-dollar The actress said this would be her first deal with Ford to launch a Tom Ford for appearance in beauty advertising, Estée Lauder collection and stand-alone Tom although she was in an ad for a Christian Ford beauty brand. Most recently, Demsey Dior handbag in the late Nineties. named several executives to new posts, Paltrow said she had no qualms about including Daniel Annese, senior vice presi- doing commercial work because over the dent and general manager of Estée Lauder last few years highly regarded actresses, International on June 1; Marjorie Lau, including Halle Berry and Nicole replacing Annese as vice president of mar- Items from the Pleasures fragrance line. Kidman, have been pitching products. keting for Lauder North America; Alicia The stigma has evaporated to the point of Valencia, to become vice president of sales “becoming cool,” she noted, adding that she has talked with Lauder and marketing for Latin America and Hispanic markets, and Beth Zurn, about doing a different type of commercial that is more “creative, vice president of education, North America, for the Lauder brand. interesting and exciting.” Paltrow will join a slew of stars affiliated with the company, in Paltrow said her mother, actress Blythe Danner, uses Lauder addition to Ford and Hurley, including Donald Trump, whose epony- products. Although Paltrow herself uses more skin care than make- mous fragrance launched in November, and Ashley Judd, the face of up, she spoke highly of Lauder’s mascara, lip gloss, a sea foam body American Beauty, a line of color cosmetics and skin care sold wash and a Crystal Glow Sugar Rub body exfoliator. through Kohl’s. “She’s an iconic global beauty and personality who people all Paltrow won a Golden Globe Award, Screen Actors Guild Award over the world aspire to emulate,” said Aerin Lauder, senior vice and Academy Award for Best Actress in her role in 1998’s president of global creative directions at the Lauder brand. “She “Shakespeare In Love.” She lives in New York City and London, with represents to me the modern woman.” her husband, musician Chris Martin of Coldplay and their daughter, The actress has patrician looks and a timeless style that have put Apple, who just turned one. Ben Gillikin her firmly on the A-List since her acting debut in the 1993 film Paltrow’s next film projects include the film adaptation of “Flesh and Bone.” Her multiyear Lauder stint will begin with a hol- Pulitzer-Prize winning play “Proof,” with Anthony Hopkins, and iday ad campaign for Pleasures. The print ad has been shot by Mario “Running With Scissors,” costarring Annette Bening. 24 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005

Avenue windows. Photos by others like Adam Fuss, Jack WWD.COM Pierson, Todd Eberle and Christopher Wool will also be showcased in the designer’s concept shop. All the Fashion Scoops artists’ work will be put on the auction block on June 8 Bergdorf Trunk Show Sees at Phillips de Pury & Co. at 450 West 15th Street. LAURENCE LOVES LIZ: It was a painting he’d dreamed about owning for years — and now it's finally his. Last week at a EARLY STARTERS: Monday was girls’ night out, as women Record $5.6M With Chanel Sotheby’s auction in New York, diamond mogul Laurence from media, broadcasting, entertainment, fashion and Graff paid more than $12.6 million for “Liz,” a silk screen politics gathered at Tina Brown’s home to fete Candace NEW YORK — The Chanel exhi- Chanel of screen diva Elizabeth Taylor. The London-based Graff, a Bushnell’s latest book, “Lipstick Jungle.” Nibbling, or not, bition at the Met might be get- rabbit- major collector of contemporary art, believes “Liz,” which on appetizers were Lisa Airan, Ines Rivero, Sally Albemarle, ting mixed reviews, but Chanel trimmed was made from a publicity photo in 1963, the year Taylor Kate Betts, Jackie Astier, Cynthia Rowley, Miramax’s Meryl shoppers gave the label two jackets starred in “Cleopatra,” is a major work. “He feels this Poster and Desiree Gruber, who had just jetted back from thumbs up to the tune of $5.6 were a particular painting is the finest portrait [Andy] Warhol ever Heidi Klum’s and Seal’s wedding in Careyes. The party was million in sales during a three- hit. did,” a spokeswoman for Graff said. “It is a painting Mr. cohosted by La Mer and was the first of many to be held day record-breaking Bergdorf Graff dreamed of owning for many years, and it is a for the novel, which is still in galley form. New Disney chief Goodman trunk show. valuable addition to his important collection of Warhol executive officer Bob Iger will hold one in Los Angeles this Bergdorf Goodman’s chairman paintings.” The painting was the top lot in the sale of summer, and when the book comes out in September, and chief executive Jim Gold was contemporary and postwar art, and exceeded its presale Bushnell will throw a party in New York during fashion quick to note the trunk show tally estimate of $9 million to $12 million. week. “It’s when the year really starts for us,” she said. was a 10 percent increase com- “For everyone else, it’s Labor Day, with back-to-school and pared to last year’s Chanel trunk, GOING ONCE, GOING TWICE: When the bidding got fierce, stuff. But for us, the year starts with fashion week.” another record breaker. Donald Trump took matters into his own hands. Trump “This shows that luxury re- served as auctioneer the evening of May 16 at “A RIPKA REELS THEM IN: Letting it slip that the goody bags tail is alive and well,” Gold said. Celebration of Learning: An Event to Benefit The are filled with expensive jewelry is one way to pack a “We believe $5.6 million is the rabbit-trimmed jackets, retailing McCarton Foundation,” a financial aid program for party. Nearly 250 people largest trunk show ever record- from $3,100 to $3,600; 41 units of a children enrolled at The McCarton School, which is came to celebrate the ed in the U.S.” $3,930 black jacket with three- dedicated to the education of children with autistic opening of Judith Ripka’s To whet shoppers’ appetites, quarter sleeves and a $1,980 spectrum disorders. Two bidders were battling it out to new glimmering boutique on Bergdorf ’s vice president of vi- above-the-knee skirt; 32 units of a play golf with “The Donald” on his private course, and just Manhattan’s Madison sual merchandising flagged the $5,533 black sweater with floral as the bidding topped $25,000, Trump said, “OK, stop. Avenue Wednesday night. trunk show in its windows, appliqués; seven units of a You get it,” gesturing to one bidder. “And you get it,” he Who knows how many guests dressed mannequins in vintage $12,980 embroidered shearling said, pointing to the other. Just like that, Trump brought in had seen the item that and new Chanel designs and jacket, and two units of an $18,210 $50,000 for the school. Jon Stewart hosted the event and appeared in a gossip column plugged the Met’s event. The pink tweed dress and coat. treated partygoers to a fair share of Pope jokes. “Can you last week announcing the buildup worked, considering “Karl’s collection has contin- believe how the world was in a flip-flop for two days goody bag graft, but there’s many of the 50 women who were ued to gain momentum,’’ Burke without a Pope?” he asked. Elyse Kroll, founder and no doubt that fitting a crowd invited to the Chanel runway said of Karl Lagerfeld. “He’s sat- president of ENK International, was the honorary chair of that size into the tiny 1,200- show on May 9 that kicked off isfying his established customer the auction, which brought in more than $1 million. square-foot store was a the trunk show were seated with who wants a suit to go to lunch or squeeze. Nevertheless, pens and notepads in hand a to wear to work, as well as the

IN PRINT: Ross Bleckner, William Wegman and Sante socialites including Tinsley STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY half-hour before the start time. younger customer who wants a D’Orazio will see firsthand what people think of their Mortimer, Sally Albermarle, Ivanka Trump outside “They were serious,” said piece of Chanel, whether it be a oversized Polaroid prints at Tuesday’s Free Arts Art Tiffany Dubin and Ivanka the Judith Ripka shop. Robert Burke, Bergdorf Good- jacket to wear with a pair of Auction Benefit kickoff party and preview. Giorgio Trump all showed up to congratulate Ripka on the new man’s senior vice president, jeans or a bag.” Armani is hosting the shindig at Barneys New York, store. And grab a pair of silver, gold and diamond fashion office. “It was a frenzy Chanel was also the source of where the artists’ work is on display in its Madison earrings on the way out. for three days.” Bergdorf Goodman’s all-time Bergdorf Goodman delivered highest trunk show tally last with 10 models showing a total of year, when sales hit $5.1 million. 30 looks. The store sold 72 units of — Rosemary Feitelberg De La Renta Sets New Unit Stephen J. Donohue NEW YORK — Oscar de la A rendering of Renta, aiming to build its Oscar de la Renta’s U.S. retail presence before Manhasset store. venturing abroad, will un-
veil a boutique at the Ameri- cana in Manhasset, N.Y., in 10/12/44 – 5/18/05 July. The 2,100-square-foot unit will boost the compa- ny’s store count to four. Since opening its Madison Avenue store last year, Oscar de La Renta has sought out leases in high- profile, high-traffic luxury First Capital would like to extend shopping areas. The Ameri- cana fits the bill with its Peter Marino-design and its sincerest condolences to Steve’s family long list of upscale retailers. “Our ultimate goal with freestanding stores is to expand into and friends. We will miss a great Europe and other parts of the world,” said Alex Bolen, president and chief executive officer of Oscar de la Renta. Executives are scouting locations for a store in Southern California, friend and colleague. and Hawaii would be another logical location, Bolen said. While there is no set time frame for international expansion, Madrid and Moscow are being considered. “We still feel we are very new to this game,’’ Bolen said. “We are pleased with the start we are off to, but we want to make sure we have a high degree of confidence in our ability to open stores before we go to countries where English is not the primary language.” Meyer Davis, the architecture firm behind de la Renta’s Bal Harbour, Fla., boutique, also is doing the honors on Long Island. The space will have clean lines, coral stone and plaster palm trees consis- tent with the elements of other Oscar de la Renta stores, and a glass and bronze facade that accents Marino’s modern touch for the center. In another sign of the company’s commitment to its retail strate- gy, Susan Mathieu has been promoted to director of U.S. retail oper- ations, overseeing the freestanding stores. She joined Oscar de la Renta last year as the store manager for the New York unit. She continues to handle those responsibilities as well as the new ones. “Her success on Madison gives us the confidence to continue opening stores in select U.S. markets and eventually overseas,” Bolen said. — R.F. WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 25

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Must have 3 Search- www.manhattanoffices.com LADIES COSTUME JEWELRY 90k years of exp. in graphic design & have project management COUTURE LADIES CASHMERE Design Assistant & creative staff management background. Self-motivation & SWEATER DESIGNER 75k+ Jr./Missy/Contemporary Co. is seeking an time management skills required. Ability to coordinate multiple LOGISTICS ANALYST - LARGE CO. 40k exp’d. Assistant Designer. Must sketch projects & provide varying levels of graphic support on projects as TURN YOUR UNWANTED ASSOCIATE TECH DESIGNER - &spec. Will have a full range of design necessary. Must be comfortable working in a demanding, fast- CHILDRENS 40k+ responsibilities. Import experience a CLOTHING & plus. Fax resume to: 212-768-2835 paced environment w/a high degree of time pressure. Must be a SALES - ALL CATEGORIES 100k team player & able to motivate staff. Strong typography & ACCESSORIES INTO CASH Design Assistant Asafashion executive you probably Please contact Ruth Nalley Illustration skills necessary. Working knowl. of Plaid Maker a plus. [email protected] Major apparel company seeks experi- have a closet full of clothing & acces- enced individual to act as a liaison be- Art Director Candidates Fax Resume to: (646) 277-7478 sories that you no longer wear. So why tween design and production. Respon- not turn it into some real cash? sibilities include assisting designers DoubleTake is the country’s premiere with concepts/layouts, pricing inquiries upscale consignment boutique & because and completing production packages. - GRAPHIC DESIGNER - wehave thousands of customers with an Must have knowledge of Photoshop Must have 1-2 years of exp. in graphic. Ability to coordinate insatiable appetite for designer fashions, and/or Illustrator. you’re guaranteed to get the greatest PATTERN/SAMPLES Fax resume 212-239-2766 multiple projects & provide varying levels of graphic support return. Call Liz (973-564-6464) now to Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast on projects as necessary. Must be organized, detail-oriented arrange for a free pick-up & before you DESIGN know it you’ll be getting your checks. work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 & able to coordinate multiple projects simultaneously. Must www.edoubletake.com Associate Designer be comfortable working in a demanding, fast-paced environment Well est and fast growing sleepwear with a high degree of time pressure. Must be a team player. Patterns/Samples/Beading and footwear based company seeks Duplicates Cut & Sew highly qualified, motivated, organized Strong Photoshop, Illustrator, typography and illustration Fast & Full Service- Production and creative individual. Must have 2-5 skills necessary. Working knowledge of Plaid Maker a plus. Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 500 Seventh Avenue New York, New York 10018 years experience. Candidates must possess the ability to work well under Graphic Designer Candidates Fax Resume to ( 646) 277-7483 P: 646.312.8918 pressure and multi task for different Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. F: 646.312.8919 No Lot Too Big or Too Small. labels and accounts Photoshop, Illus- Call CLOTHES-OUT: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, trator, Excel a must. Excellent drawing (937) 898-2975 Apparel Staffing, Ltd. skill is a must. Fax to: 212-202-4396 or PRODUCTIONS *PRODUCTION*DESIGN*FINANCE* E-mail: [email protected] All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. *TECH DESIGN*GRAPHIC DESIGN* Call Sherry 212-719-0622. *MERCHANDISING*PRODUCT DEVEL* Designer CAD STYLIST www.apparelstaffing.com ASST. HAT DESIGNER Call Alan Wolf Leading Consumer Products Company based in New York Call: (212) 302-0216 Fax: (212) 302-1161 EUGENIA KIM Hats/Shoes seeks a talented stylist to create print and sourced collections Fast-paced, high-end NY hat/shoe design PATTERNS, SAMPLES, co seeks FT creative, detail-oriented for bedding products. This individual will facilitate engravings CLOSE OUTS PRODUCTIONS A/R CLERK indiv to design hats & conceive of a and technical specs that appeal to the mass merchants cus- We Buy Men’s, Full servcie shop to the trade. Major apparel importer in NYC looking hat bridge line. Must have 1-2 yrs of tomer. Must be able to understand and translate trends for Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. for an A/R Clerk. Req’s: filing, phone hat design exp & working technical Women’s & Children’s communication, computer exp. a must. knowledge of hat patterns, felt/straw, mass appeal. The qualified candidate must possess a four- All Quantities Please send resume with salary req’s: cut & sew, knits, & fur hats. Overseas year degree in design, textiles or related field with 3-5 years WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY FAX: (646) 304-8489 product development exp a major plus. work related experience. We’re looking for a self-starter with PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Please email or fax resume: We are nice people to deal with High qlty, reasonable price. Any E: [email protected] F:212-674-1769 the ability to multi-task. If you’re a team player, have a posi- P.S. Large Piece Good Deals design & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 BOOKKEEPER - Full Charge tive attitude, and are willing to pitch in when there are dead- Textile Co. is seeking an exp’d. individual. Also HBA and General Must know Peachtree, Excel, and Word. lines, we want to hear from you! Merchandise. Please Fax resume to: 212-398-1793 Sample Fabric Dyeing NYC Please send resumes to: CAD artist $45-50K. Current experience Designer All Fabrics / No Min in Nedgraphics or U4IA requrd. Exp in Box#M 1083 800.NY.DYEING / 24 HR SVC prints of textiles for intimate apparel Bra Designer & c/o Fairchild Publications end use requrd. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Assistant Designer 7 West 34th Street, 4th Floor CAD artist $60-65K. Current exp in New York, NY 10001 U4IA, Photoshop. Strong in yarn dyes, WANTED!!!! prints. Womens or mens or kidswear Lingerie Company requires bra designer EOE, M/F, H/V OK. 7th Ave. @ 35th Street. Call 973- and design assistant. 564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency Designer: Candidate should possess ex- Designers Immediate perience in full design tasks including Designer CAD Artist/Designer creative contribution, first sample pat- BETTER WMNS $125K SENIOR LEVEL tern, grading and fitting. Candidate will Head Designer TECHNICAL $75K Fun Jr. Intimate Apparel/Sleep Mfr. need to work closely with merchandising Large manufacturing company seeks Unique Sales Opportunity seeks CAD artist to join our TEAM. Must &sales and run a design room with a full Head Designer for ladies athletic apparel CAD DESIGNER $60K Partnership option with no investment! possess creativity for product develop- charge assistant & multiple sample hands. to design branded and private label Well est’d. co. with successful lines and ment, a strong color sense, the ability collections for major brands. Must GRAPHICS $60K broad customer base looking for National to communicate conceptual ideas, and Assistant Designer: Candidate should have proven skills in designing a suc- ASST-ILLUST $40K Sales Representative with experience be a self-starter. 3+ years CAD experi- possess 3-5 years experience in related cessful athletic wear collection from and relationships in fashion forward ence req’d. Photoshop/Illustrator a must. design tasks for bras. Creative as well concept to completion. as technical skills a plus. CAD ASST-6 Mths Exp $30K COSTUME JEWELRY. Excellent product Ned Graphics and/or U4ia a +. Must be Please Fax resume to 212-239-2766 [email protected] organized & work well under pressure. development in place with support staff Salary and benefits to compensate Excellent salary and benefits package throughout Asia. If you’re tired of work- Fax resume and salary requirements: 212-213-0100 Attn: CAD Director/or with experience. Please send resume Designer - Sweater ing for someone else and want to secure and salary history to: your future, call or fax resume to: E-mail: [email protected] Well est’d import co seeks talented, Tel: 781-784-4300 / Fax: 781-784-4304 Box#M 1042 exp’d Jr./Contemporary sweater & knit CAD artist to $55K. Current exp as print c/o Fairchild Publications designer. Responsibilities include stylist for original prints. Illustrator/ 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl sketching, specing & product develop- Photoshop on PC. Midtown Co. Call New York, NY 10001 ment. Must be proficient in Photoshop 973-564-9236 JARAL FASHION AGCY /Illustrator. Email resumes to: Designer/Head/to 100K+ [email protected] or CAD Designers Immed MEN’S LOUNGEWEAR Fax: 212-398-2087 Attn: Jody Sr. Operator $50K For established co’s "hot" branded urban Entry Level $32K DESIGNER licensed lines (dept & specialty stores). [email protected] ELLE Sleepwear Req: hands on designer with men’s Designer to $110K. Min. 3 yrs exp as Customer service $45-50K. Min 2-3 yrs (Urban a +) loungewear expr., ability to bra designer req. Creative to design for GREAT OPPORTUNITY WITH direct other designers, (would consider mass market. Mdtn co. Jr + missy. current exp in apparel or footwear or WELL-ESTABLISHED CO. accessory co OK. Must have dealt w/ men’s related sportswear bkgd), trend Growing Co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY 488 7th Avenue (36th Street) Right candidate will be able to identify analysis, strong Illust/Photohop skills. Sears or JC Penny or Dept. stores or trends and translate to garments that SUNNY/LOFT-LIKE SHWRM chains. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY. E-mail resume: [email protected] Live/Work will retail at better dept. stores. Must (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Customer service supervisor $70-K. Current flat sketch, have extensive knowledge Designer to 125K current exp in moder- Wood flrs, Hi ceils, 2 baths, drmn MERCHANDISER exp in managing min 5 CS reps. Garment of computers to prepare packages for ate priced women’s full fashion sweaters Approx. 1100SF. Immed Occ … $ 3595 or accessory or footwear exp req’d + large development through WebPDM or + knits. Well known branded co. Call 212.629.8694 – MON-FRI – NO FEE Fast paced national distributor of co exp. Call 973-564-9236 Agency. similar, Illustrator, PhotoShop; under- Designers Immed. 973-564-9236 JARAL Fasion Agency apparel / accessories seeks stand fabrics and construction. Good Customer Service communication, sense of urgency and Handbags $100K+ Merchandiser. 5 yrs exp with ability to meet deadlines, is required. Activewear $100K+ 85 Mercer Street - SOHO licensed merch, managing Women’s Designer 3+yrs exp in Sleepwear/Intimates. We 1,200 sq. ft. w/high ceiling. Retail Space. 3+ yrs exp data entry, invoicing, EDI offer an excellent salary with benefits. Sweaters $100K+ Designer to $90K. Current exp in womens design team, etc. E-mail: implementation. Excellent communi- Please submit resume with Subject woven and cut & sew moderate priced Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 [email protected] cation & computer skills, able to multi- Header: Designer-Elle- Your Name to: Knits $100K+ branded sportwear for JCPenney market www.dumann.com task. Fax res & sal req: (212) 768-2358 [email protected] [email protected] niche & the like. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. 26 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES IN SALES/Mdsing Exec-7+ yrs exper w/a Mens or Y/Mens branded accessories INTIMATE APPAREL importer selling to lge strs. $125-150K Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 Successful, well established intimate apparel company seeking top notch talent with DIRECT INTIMATES experience (bras, panties, daywear, sleepwear, loungewear): SALES PRO Off-price wholesaler of children’s, SENIOR MERCHANDISER/PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT women’s & men’s clothing looking for an experienced Sales Pro, NY based. Take complete charge, manage private label accounts, work Must know retailers for mass market with buyers, handle pre-production & branded goods. Please send resume: Briara Trading Co., Fax: (610) 828-1799 or Email: [email protected] SENIOR FIT/TECHNICAL DESIGNER No telephone calls please. Patternmaking background & fitting experience a must JUNIOR FIT/ TECHNICAL DESIGNER SHOWROOM SALES Assist fittings, specs, know patterns, computer Accessory Co. seeks a highly motivated Salesperson for New York showroom. PRODUCTION COORDINATORS National accounts available based on experience. Salary + commission offered. Work with private label accts-Victoria’s Secret, J.C. Penny’s, Please Fax resume to: 914-674-2977 Wal-Mart, Mandarin speaking helpful CAD ARTIST/GRAPHIC DESIGNER Top 7th Ave. Dress Co. Photoshop + Illustrator, strong portfolio, knowledge Seeking experienced salesman/woman garment construction as well as Sales Manager with dress and or sportswear background. Please Fax resumes to: 201-964-5802 Tel: 212-563-5930 Fax: 212-563-6086 Email: [email protected] CREATIVE CONNECTIONS AGENCY

sales DIRECTOR OF PATTERNMAKER Ladies’ underwear/swimwear company SALES/ PR/ MARKETING located in Midtown: 3+ years experi- Prestigious French Children’s Wear EUGENIA KIM Hats/Shoes ence for fast paced department. Good Company is looking for enthusiastic English. and experienced sales associates for its Well est’d , high-end NY hat/shoe new Madison Avenue location. Great design co. seeks energetic, organized PATTERN CLERK benefit package. Please email or fax to: indiv to oversee wholesale sales ( trade Entry level clerk. Good command of [email protected]/212-987-1861 shows, showroom appts, phone sales) & English, willing to learn, organized PR (pitch stories, editorial placement). and PC literate, basic pattern knowl- Must have minimum of 1-2 years whole- edge a plus. sale sales exp, (pref in high-end mar- SALES-RETAIL ket, accessories, shoes & dept. stores) Fax resume w/ salary req to District Mgr/Hi-End Fashion ...... $85K and 1-2 years prev PR exp. 212-337-0639 or email [email protected] SHOWROOM/ASST MGR Please email or fax resume: Upscale French Designer...... $60K Product Devel Mgr $90-100K. Current exp FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] E: [email protected] F:212-674-1769. in merchandising costume jewlery for jun- ior trendy line requrd. Supervise 4. Popu- FASHION DESIGNER lar priced market. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Knitcraft - St Croix - Corporation , an exclusive sportswear mfr seeks talented Product Development designer to join our dynamic team in Assistant Winona, MN. Candidate must be a self- Growing accessories company seeks starter and well disciplined with a de- ahighlymotivated and experienced sire to excel. We offer an excellent and individual to join our dynamic team! challenging work environment. Relo- Must be very organized & detail oriented. cation to Winona, Minnesota required. Responsibilities include all aspects of PD Please send resume to: from conception through production Knitcraft Corporation Production Manager $80-90K. Current as well as maintaining & supervising exp. in private label product devel. woven 4020 West 6th St. design lab. Strong computer skills Winona, MN 55987 womens imported sportswear reqrd. including Excel, Photoshop & Illustrator No Travel. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY P: 507-454-1163 F: 507-454-1589 a plus. Email: [email protected] Share Our Success! GIRLS $40K Product Development Denim Salesperson Industry Leader in Denim & Sportswear Production sourcing manager VP $200- Looking for salesperson with experi- offers a Ground Floor Opportunity for CAD DESIGNER Coordinator 250K. Current exp in sourcing jr. denim ence only in denim fashion. Junior / aJr. Jeans & Sportswear Professional. 1-2 yr Exp. Photoshop/Illustrator Major apparel company seeks individual bottoms from China, Far East +WW kids / missy / large sizes. Call 917-328- L.A. based - other territories available. Call Laurie: 212-947-3399 with minimum two years experience. required. LA based. 350 mil vol co. Will Account Executive 2361 or send by fax to: 212-869-6882. Please Fax or E-mail details to H.R. at: or email: [email protected] Responsibilities include approving lab relo. Negotiation of process + tech knowl- 626-338-6886 / [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS edge of washes etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Excellent opportunity with the rapidly dips, fabric and accessories. Individual growing lifestyle brand, Tory by TRB, Horizon Textiles Inc. will review design worksheets and coor- aluxury apparel company with both SALES POSITION: Knitted fabric and Graphics Designer $65,000 dinate information between design de- Wholesale and Retail divisions.Tory by garment packages; Domestic production Nice firm seeks experienced partment and production department. Production/Sourcing Mgr/to 120k+ TRB is seeking to fill an account exec- and imports; fast delivery and huge stock person with fashion forward sense. Must have good organizational, com- MENS URBAN SPORTSWEAR utive position for our fast-paced Corpo- inventory. Call Bobby at: 213-305-9151 Missy and Jr. Goods. munication and computer skills. Fabric This highly successful multi-div. co rate office. The ideal candidate will [email protected] construction knowledge a plus. seeks Sourcing/Prod’n Manager for a have 3+ years experience in women’s Italian Textile Mill Fax resume 212-239-2766 top Urban Brand. Req: Expr in off-shore apparel, be a self-starter who thrives in sourcing (China a must) for the Urban Seeking an aggressive Salesperson with Product Devl Coord/Merchandiser to afast paced and hard working envi- experience in the better & bridge market. Sportswear Market (Macy’s level). Ability ronment, and be able to immediately Linea Pelle Inc. $50K. Min 1 yr exp. in follow-up of to coord samples, monitor prod’n etc. Salary + commission. Knowledge of pre-production & PO’s OK. Woven handle majors and specialty stores. Italian a plus. Fax résumé: Planner E-mail resume to: [email protected] Please submit resume with salary 212-354-0520 sportswear co. exp. req’d. PDM helpful, Fax: 917-591-2521 Ph: 212-481-1941 Growing West LA Accessories company not nec. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY requirements to via email to needs planner for Major National Accts [email protected] Jr. Plus-size Sales like Target, Walmart etc. Experience required. Salary based on experience . Production Assistant ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Representative Please E-mail Accessory Importer seeks highly Sales Assistant We are looking for Jr. Plus-size Sales organized, detailed individual to help Jones New York Intimates Rep. for our NY showroom. Must have [email protected] or Distributor of Eyewear currently seeks Licensed by Madison Intimate Brands Fax to 310-231-9949 &handle; accounting dept , EDI, shipping, experience with specialty chain stores. F/T Business Analyst for their Family Fax resume to 213-627-1196 Attn: Gary. traffic/customs . Great opportunity for Optics Division. This position requires Looking for experienced professional the right candidate. Must have 3 yrs the following qualifications and skills: Senior Account Executive. Will be Men’s Loungewear/to 100k+ exp. in this field. Please fax or email: responsible for targeting customers This very successful co. seeks sales pro Merchandiser F: 212-967- 3912 E: [email protected] •Must be familiar with Partners on line needs, making the sale, through sell- for their branded, licensed "hot" Urban Large childrenswear company seeks (Target system) to be able to retrieve through with existing accounts; and loungewear lines. Req: strong expr sell- Merchandiser with girls background, PRODUCTION ASSISTANT sales information from POL. exploring other areas of growth. ing men’s loungewear to dept/specialty sizes 4-16. Must be a heavy hitter and •Must have an understanding of the Excellent opportunity to join a firm, stores, would consider sportswear with have vast knowledge of the business. Ladies suit MFR needs organized person Kmart system and knowledge of loungewear dept. store contacts, (Urban to order trim follow up w/ contractors, with company-owned overseas factories, Ideal candidate coming from Limited Workbench. with strong sourcing capacities and brands a plus). E-mail resume to: Too or Gap background. domestic & China. Knowl. of excel & •Working knowledge of JDE preferred reputation for quality and on-time [email protected] Fax resume 212-239-2766 word a must. Email or fax resume. (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 212-481-1941 F: 212-869-5393 E: [email protected] but not necessary. delivery. Must have high level of communication and computer skills In addition the ideal candidate must (Excel spreadsheets, Word, Email), Sales Associate Production Asst to $50K. Min 1 yr exp. be proficient in Excel and be able to PATTERNMAKER in scheduling, follow-up of orders from minimum 5 yrs sales exp. Excellent Legwear & Bodywear create and format reports. Must have salary, benefits. GERBER SILHOUETTE Far East. Computerized. Long Island analytical capabilities, be detail oriented This position reports directly to the Seeking 1st through production City Loc. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Email resume w/subject header: Acct National Sales Director for a major and have excellent follow up skills. Exec : Your Name to: [email protected] Patternmaker well versed on the Must be a team player. We offer an excel- sport lifestyle brand. The ideal candi- Gerber Silhouette software to make lent compensation package including date will have 3-5 years of sales admin- all categories of Missy, Petite & Plus PRODUCTION Major Sleepwear Manufacturer seeks company paid benefits. Account Representative istration experience with independent Size clothing. Candidate must be an Come join one of the fastest growing and department store accounts. independent worker & work well with highly motivated, detail-oriented team E-mail/Fax resumes to V.Viscovich at: players to fill several positions in our ACCESSORY COMPANIES today! We are Responsibilities will include coordina- technical staff. Please fax resume & [email protected] tion & administration of accounts in expanding, fast paced production dept: 212-561-7593 seeking a Sales Rep in our NY location. salary requirements to: (212) 629-9272 Minimum 2 years Fashion related exp. conjunction with the sales team, PRODUCT COORDINATOR management of house accounts, Minimim 3 years experience necessary. Travel req’d. Please E-mail resumes to: [email protected] weekly selling analysis, trade show Patternmaker Immediate preparation & participation, and coor- Better Womens ASST PRODUCT COORDINATOR TECH Design Mgr-3+ recent yrs exp Minimim 1 year experience as a Tech Design head w/a knit gloves/ dination of marketing initiatives with Knits/Wovens contracted PR firm. Qualified $75,000 hats/socks importer/Excel. $85-110K BOOKKEEPING P/T ASST PRODUCTION SCHEDULER Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 candidates can submit their resume to: [email protected] Minimum 1 year experience Showroom looking for a Part Time Bookkeeper. Experience in a [email protected] PRODUCTION ASSISTANT multi brand showroom preferred. or fax 212.869.7375 PATTERNMAKER Entry Level E-mail: [email protected] FABRIC ASSISTANT Warehouse Manager SALES MANAGER Jr/Missy Swimwear Co. seeks organized, Entry Level Must have shipping/receiving experi- HANDBAGS experienced patternmaker. Must have ence in the garment industry and Couture Evening Wear New better fashion handbag line knowledge in Gerber & specs. Job based To apply, please fax your resume with knowledge of shipping to the major Mfr. seeks exp’d. Salesperson. Must seeks someone experienced with better in NJ. Fax: 973-772-5011 / E-mail: salary req’s & position title Attn: Lauren retailers and guidelines. Great have high-end Specialty Store relations. Specialty stores. Great Opportunity! [email protected] 212-685-4341 opportunity. Fax resume: 718-963 2855 Fax resume & salary to: 305-826-6028 Please fax resume to: (212) 279-2027 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 27 WWD.COM

Tech professor had cautioned him about infatuation with style. “Architecture is not about Style Boosts Atlanta’s Profile style, which seems so temporal,” Portman said. “Buildings sail By Georgia Lee highlighted Atlanta’s increasing- create much of the city’s skyline, through time, and last. They re- ly diverse, international nature, received an award for his impact flect elements of an era, but they ATLANTA — Like the city it cele- as awards were presented to on the style of architecture. Tom have to have the vision of time.” brated, the Style Atlanta grand style leaders in fields from retail Galloway, dean of the school of ar- Portman said in an interview finale was a mixture of down to music to architecture. chitecture at Georgia Tech, Port- that after decades of growing sub- home and diversity, Old South André Leon Talley, editor at man’s alma mater, introduced urban sprawl in Atlanta and else- and New Internationalism — large of Vogue, got the award for him as “the man who broke the where, his vision of urban multi- and a great place to dress up. international style, while rapper mold at the time, and changed use centers where people live The black-tie gala on May 6 at Andre 3000 Benjamin, of Outkast, everything in the landscape of work and play is becoming widely the Ritz Carlton in the Buckhead in tuxedo and skullcap, accepted cities worldwide.” accepted. section ended the first annual a prize for music and style. Portman, who popularized the Hotels he designed opened in TSHOMBE ROBERTS PHOTO BY Outkast rapper Andre 3000. Style Atlanta, a fashion and de- Paula Wallace, president and atrium as a standard feature of Warsaw and London last year, and sign week intended to raise the founder of the Savannah College modern hotels, has designed proj- Portman has developing projects style came from “growing up not city’s profile as a style center of Art and Design, which opened ects from Atlanta’s AmericasMart in Istanbul and Dubai. However, having anything, and having to and spotlight the design and re- an Atlanta branch in March, ac- to San Francisco’s Embarcadero he said, “China is the country make something out of nothing.” tail community. cepted the award for impact of Center and Marina Square in with the most potential for the After the event, Benjamin re- About 500 people attended design education. She wore a Singapore. Recalling student 21st century, followed by India.” vealed plans to launch an the $300-per-person event, dress designed by a student. days as a follower of the Bauhaus Taking a less lofty view of Atlanta-based clothing line for which benefited the Atlanta John C. Portman Jr., chairman, movement of modern architec- style was rapper Benjamin. The fall 2006, starting with men’s and AIDS Partnership Fund and the Portman Cos., who helped ture, Portman said a Georgia star of the film “Be Cool” said his expanding into women’s apparel. 28 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 23, 2005 WWD.COM

Jessica Alexandra with Diane Alba in von Furstenberg. Ralph Final Fete Lauren. CANNES — There’s something to be said for saving the best ’til last. AmfAR’s 12th annual Cinema Against AIDS benefit Thursday night brought out the dazzling dresses that were missing from the red carpet all week and a stable of stars to wear them. Co-host Sharon Stone rallied Penélope Cruz, Salma Hayek, Milla Jovovich, Joely Richardson and Jessica Alba to get glammed up for the gala, held again at Moulin de Mougins. Co- chair Carine Roitfeld brought out the fashion stars — John Galliano, Vanessa Seward and Patrick Demarchelier. Stone also wrangled a good dinner partner: Fiat heir Lapo Elkann, whose company donated an Alfa Romeo coupe. “I like to think Italians do it better,” he said, BLONDE AMBITION referring to the car as well as the midnight NEW YORK — Valentino sure loves his blue tuxedo he designed for himself, blondes. Although he chose a brunette, “Sharon is the picture of a movie star,” he Eugenia Volodina, as the face of his new said, “Smart, elegant and funny.” perfume, V, Pamela Anderson, Nicollette Benicio Del Toro had similarly kind Sheridan, London social transplant words for his date, Puerto Rican model Alexandra von Furstenberg and newly fair- Astrid Munoz. “Doesn’t she look fabulous? haired Lindsay Lohan all turned out at the We’re from the same country,” he bragged. Four Seasons to help him celebrate its He dwarfed Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, launch. Lohan, who looked who both wore vintage. As the twins surprisingly demure in cream convened by a side table with their Valentino couture, enthused about handler, Mary-Kate revealed she’s Astrid eye® her upcoming appearance with her on a European whirlwind. “I’ve Munoz in favorite band, Coldplay, on the been traveling around, first Christian season finale of SNL. “This is my third London, then Paris, then London, Dior. time hosting SNL. The first time was then here, then I go to Madrid tomorrow,” when I was 17. Now I’m much more she said, adding, “I barely knew what I was comfortable. I feel like I can be silly,” going to wear tonight; I pulled this outfit explained Lohan, who was hoping to meet together about 10 minutes ago.” Martin’s better half, Gwyneth Paltrow. Cruz also decided at the last minute “Chris Martin was like, ‘Can we listen to what she would wear. “I just got in last “Rumors”?’ And I was like, ‘I can’t believe night,” she said. “Oh yeah, you made it to you know the name of my single!’” Valentino with our party!” clapped Stone as she went in While Lohan arrived promptly at Pamela Anderson. for an embrace. “And you look so happy, it eight, a glammed-up crowd of the usual really shows,” she continued, social suspects, including Lauren duPont, Marina Rust and Jennifer Creel, filtered in asking if Cruz would mind through the evening. The Four Seasons restaurant space was outfitted as a being in the home movie discotheque for the night, complete with moody lighting. As Valentino and his she was shooting. entourage settled into dinner in one of the booths, Diane von Furstenberg chatted Looking on were with former daughter-in-law Alexandra before heading out to the country later that Marchesa designers night. “It’s a drive I’ve done a million times and it’s really a pretty, safe road. Even Georgina Chapman in the Studio 54 days when I wasn’t quite so…clear,” she laughed. and , who Keren Craig Lapo Giancarlo Giammetti, resplendent in a suit with a bright red shirt, was looking scored a coup getting Elkann forward to returning to Europe. “New York is so busy. You always feel you have to their powder blue be out, even at 3 o’clock in the morning, in case you miss something. It’s crazy.” strapless sheath on While most women showed up in touches of red or Valentino gowns, Tiffany Cruz just the day Dubin chose a sleek, somber black Lanvin, and eschewed the black and red feather before, though people masks handed out at the door. trampled its train all When one guest asked Damon Dash where his was, he said, “It’s for later,” and night. “All I do is step on Ziyi Zhang in winked at his wife, Rachel Roy. people’s dresses,” admitted Armani Prive. one offender, Mickey Rourke. As Jovovich squeezed by in a dress of her own design, Cruz pinched her arm. “I heard you’re going to sing tonight!” cried Jovovich. “No, never! I don’t sing, I can’t!” replied Cruz. Jovovich, on the other hand, belted out a rendition of “Big Spender” that got the crowd on its feet. Still, she was no match for co-host Liza Minnelli singing “New York, New York.” Robert Rodriguez, in his signature stetson, noted, “The [‘Sin City’] cast is taking up two tables. We’ll be the rowdy ones.” True to form, the director played the theme song to “Desperado” with friend Hayek on backup vocals. Meanwhile, his toned-down star, Jessica Alba, explained that her Ralph Lauren look was meant to be reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe. But Stone was the real blonde bombshell in the room, compelling the crowd to donate over $3 million in auction items. “It’s for a good cause, but I like to think it’s because I’m just fabulous,” she purred. Around midnight, the crowd moved on to Naomi Campbell’s birthday party at the Palm Beach Sharon Casino, but the diva didn’t show until Stone in 1:30 a.m. Then it was on to a private Max Azria yacht, where guests reveled until 8 Atelier. a.m. “I had to leave,” sighed one tired Penélope Cruz designer. “But the party was still going strong.” inin Marchesa.Marchesa. Lindsay Lohan Nicollette Sheridan CANNES PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; ELKANN AND ALBA BY WIREIMAGE; VALENTINO BY STEVE EICHNER BY WIREIMAGE; VALENTINO STEPHANE FEUGERE; ELKANN AND ALBA BY CANNES PHOTOS BY