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On the Lewis and Clark Trail Across the Bitterroots

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On the Lewis and Clark Trail Across the Bitterroots when parking the car or the trailer, and a initials, or the toilet facilities are littered. regular check upon the whereabouts of Courtesy and consideration for other the children. Campground operators have campers is as vital outdoors as it is at some grim tales to tell about parents who home—almost more so, since four walls would let others assume the responsibility can contain noise to some extent. for their youngsters and teenagers alike. Happily, most campers are thoughtful, Camping at its best is a relaxing family considerate types who have a wide repu- adventure, but it's not a time for letting tation for being the friendliest people on the small fry roam at will—straight to a earth. They love to swap tales of their rushing stream. Nor can the campground adventures over well-brewed tea or hearty operators be expected to supervise teen- coffee. Advice and assistance from the age activities without the assistance of seasoned veterans can aid the beginner in responsible and concerned parents. getting out of all sorts of strange situa- Considering the increasing use of the tions. And the veterans are not above Nation's campgrounds, it's become more laughing at their own mistakes, both past important than ever for campers them- and present, like leaving the tent stakes selves to be interested in the maintenance at home for the first time in 15 years. of campsites. A campground quickly be- It's a congenial business, camping—in a comes a slum when trees are stripped of congenial outdoors. But do go armed limbs, tables are festooned with carved with a healthy taste for adventure. On the Lewis and Clark Trail Across the Bitterroots ED PARKER ATOP a ridge of the Bitterroot Moun- by rugged, mountainous country, remote -^ÍJ^ tains in Idaho you walk a narrow from civilization, and looking much as trail. it did when Lewis and Clark first saw There's an excitement in you which it in 1805. Yet just a few hours ago you builds with each step, for this centuries- breakfasted at a hotel coííee shop back in old trail, in places worn almost knee deep Missoula, Mont. in the earth, is a significant part of our The Lewis and Clark Expedition was country's early history. one of history's greatest overland explo- Indians, explorers, prospectors, trap- rations. Altogether the expedition traveled pers, settlers. Army troops, and nameless some 7,500 miles through the wilderness others—all passed this way countless times from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean and in countless numbers. And among those back. The trip lasted 2 years 4 months who found this trail in the wilderness 9 days, and by far the most difficult times and followed it on across the forbidding mountains were Lewis and Clark. ^ ^ Now the earth drops steeply from each Ed Parker, formerly with the Forest Service, is side of the trail, and the view is from now in the Bureau of Land Management, Depart- horizon to horizon. You are surrounded ment of the Interior. 67 of the journeys west and east were those American claims to the Pacific. Economi- spent in crossing the Bitterroots. cally it provided the first knowledge of The expedition west nearly failed as it the resources which eventually led to the struggled for 9 days around and across opening of our western lands for devel- the rugged mountains and through dense opment and for settlement. forests. The Indian trail that the party fol- It took the determined and brave men lowed was narrow and twisting, difficult of the Lewis and Clark Expedition—the to stay on, and often blocked by wind- Corps of Discovery—-9 days to cross the felled trees. The first snows had fallen, Bitterroot Range. You, today's automobile and game had left the high country. The traveler, can drive through the mountains men were reduced to a diet of horsemeat in an easy 4 hours along U.S. 12, the and soup before they breached the moun- Lewis and Clark Highway, which was tains and arrived sick and exhausted at completed during 1961. an Indian camp on the Weippe Prairie. I followed the trail of the expedition Their return trip in June 1806, under across the Bitterroots with keen anticipa- the expert guidance of three Nez Perce tion—I had never been in these moun- Indians, was less difficult, but still arduous tains—and with a purpose. The Forest and exhausting. By forced marches over Service was beginning planning for the snow which was packed so hard it sup- interpretation of historical sites and the ported their horses, they made the trip development of other visitor services from Weippe Prairie to Lolo in 7 days. along the highway and on the primitive Lewis and Clark did not find the easy Lolo Trail Road higher in the mountains. water passage to the West which they had Al Swift and I had come from Wash- sought, but the expedition is considered ington to work on this planning with by many historians as the single most Ken Keeney, Chief of Information and important event in the development of Education for the Forest Service's North- the Western United States. Politically it ern Region, and others of his staff. secured the recent American purchase of It was a clear-sky day when we left the Louisiana Territory and extended Missoula for our on-the-ground look at The old and the new in outdoor travel, Bitterroot National forest. the historic Bitterroots. We took U.S. 93 Plan at least 2 days for your explora- south and west for 11 miles to the com- tion of the Bitterroot country; or more if munity of Lolo. Here we turned west- possible, for there's much to see and do. ward on U.S. Highway 12. This historic land is also rich with un- On September 9,1805, Lewis and Clark usual natural beauty—dense forests, deep had reached this same point after travel- canyons, high alpine meadows, mountain ing north from Lost Trail Pass through lakes, and white water rivers. Fishing is the beautiful Bitterroot Valley. By a creek excellent. So don't make yours a fast rush they called Travelers Rest (Lolo Creek), on down the highway when you travel they had camped for 2 days, their hunters out this way. shooting game for food and the horses We made ours a 2-day trip, traveling grazing the surrounding meadows. And the length of the Lolo Trail west for the here they, too, turned westward toward first day and staying overnight at Orofino. the imposing Bitterroots, taking a trail Here on the banks of the Clearwater used by the Nez Perce who lived west River the sick and hungry men of the of the mountains. Every year the Nez expedition camped while they hewed and Perce, including the women and children, burned out the "holler" of the five canoes crossed the mountains over this trail to that would carry them on to the Pacific. hunt buffalo on the plains farther east. We returned to Missoula over the high- Ahead of us then, as we left Lolo, were way, disappointed only that rain kept us the mountains which had nearly turned from crossing over one of the suspension back the expedition. For about the next bridges that span the Lochsa and hiking 160 miles we would follow Lewis and for a ways into the Selway-Bitterroot Clark's route across the Bitterroots, more Wilderness. than 100 miles of it through the Lolo and the Clear water National Forests. Tips for Campers U.S. 12 winds through the mountains along the water grades of the Lochsa and If you are camping, you'll certainly Clearwater Rivers, and roughly follows want to stay longer than 2 days. Along the expedition's route and the old Nez the highway are a number of the Forest Perce trail for some 50 miles to a point Service campgrounds from which you just beyond the Powell ranger station. can explore the country and enjoy its There the expedition left the valley of pioneer atmosphere. If you are not camp- the Lochsa, which had become increas- ing, a circle trip like ours—beginning on ingly narrow and choked with brush, and either side of the mountains—is an ex- climbed to the ridges above. cellent way to see this country. Take rain The rest of the way across the 6,000- gear in case it's needed and make the foot mountains the Nez Perce trail stayed wilderness walk which I missed. along the ridgetops, avoiding the steep- The interpretation of the historical sites walled canyons that the Indians had long and the development of the other visitor ago found impassable for men and horses. services along these roads are not yet Since about 1860 this trail has been called complete, but they are well underway. the Lolo Trail, a name which now is also Watch for Forest Service signs along the applied to a Forest Service road that is highway and the Lolo Trail Road. They often on and always very near the historic give mileage distances, locate off-highway Nez Perce trail. In a great many places trails and roads, and interpret points of along the road the old Indian trail is still interest and historic significance like the visible even today. campsites of Lewis and Clark and other So it is that the traveler today has his places associated with the expedition. choice of taking the modern highway U.S. 12 is a modern, 2-lane, all-weather through the canyons of the Lochsa and the highway, but to travel it your car should Clearwater Rivers or else the primitive, be in good condition and have a full gas and ridge-hugging, Lolo Trail Road.
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