Galapagos News Spring/Summer Galapagosnews2009 a biannual English-language publication for members of the international network of Friends of Galapagos organizations

IN THIS ISSUE

Anniversaries: Looking Backwards, Looking Forwards

Charles Darwin: Geological Footsteps &

Pink Iguanas?

Meet Gabriel Lopez: CDF's New Executive Director

Photo Contest 2010

The Floreana (left) is critically endangered, with just a few hundred individuals left on earth. It was more numerous when the HMS Beagle passed through Galapagos in 1835. Back then, there were enough around that managed to observe them and collect a single specimen, which resulted in this splendid drawing by John Gould, the Zoological Society of London’s ornithologist and artist extraordinaire. As Gould noted in the Zoology of the Voyage of the Beagle, the has white tips to its wing covets, “forming three transverse bands,” a characteristic that sets it apart from the other Galapagos mockingbirds and gives the its scientific name trifasciatus, literally three-banded mockingbird (see page 7 for more).

Reproduced with permission from John van Wyhe ed., The Complete Work of Charles Darwin Online (http://darwin-online.org.uk/). Can you highlight a couple of achievements from Dr. J. Gabriel Lopez your career to date? 200 Years of Darwin I have worked on scores of major conservation and sustainable …is the new executive director development initiatives in nearly 50 countries on five different Galapagos News is a copyright twice-yearly English continents, so this is a very difficult question to answer. But I am language publication produced for members of President's Report of the Charles Darwin the international network of Friends of Galapagos Foundation. He comes to particularly proud to have been a part of efforts to build several organizations. These non-profit organizations, which Galapagos with 25 years of research and training centers for sustainable development in are listed below, all support the Charles Darwin Mexico, southern Africa, and Brazil and also in various parts Foundation for the Galapagos Islands. uch has been said, and will brink and have re-established native experience in conservation, continue to be said in this landscapes and ecosystems. The flora philanthropy, public policy, of Asia. I am also very proud to have helped forge strong social The information in this issue was obtained from the M movements for conservation and sustainable development in Charles Darwin Foundation, the Galapagos National Darwin anniversary year, about the and fauna on many of the islands are, in environmental management, Park, and other sources, but they are not responsible impact that Charles Darwin’s work fact, richer than they were at the turn of and community development. Mexico, Central America, and the Amazon. These have led to for the accuracy of the content or the opinions has had on the fabric of scientific last century. There are legal measures in major advances in community-based management of forests and expressed herein. thought and the fundamental way we place to protect marine and terrestrial other natural resources that can serve as a model for sustainability ISSN 1468-8514 understand the natural world. This systems. The Galapagos waters, a world Tell us about your early years. in other settings. year, we celebrate the 150th anniversary Darwin never explored, still teem with I was born in Cuba but grew up in New York. As a child, I had a Galapagos Conservancy What is your vision for Galapagos? of the publication of Darwin’s On the life, and new species of corals and deep wide range of interests in academic pursuits, sports, and the arts, USA but I also had a great love of the outdoors and beautiful natural Sustainability by 2020. This is an enormous challenge, as current Tel: +1 703.383.0077 Origin of Species by Means of Natural ocean fauna are being discovered today. trends of growth and development threaten to overtake our efforts Email: [email protected] Selection. We also celebrate the 200th The report we would make to Mr. settings. I so looked forward to major hiking, canoeing, and sailing Web: www.galapagos.org trips during holidays. They offered a refuge away from the concrete to conserve and restore this magnificent ecosystem. But I remain anniversary of Mr. Darwin’s birth. And Darwin on the inhabited islands is optimistic that we can set in motion a process for creating a Charles Darwin Foundation of Canada of particular, immediate interest to us not as glowing. We see evidence of canyons of the city. It’s distressing that many children today are not Canada Galapagos where economic, urban, and tourism development are is the 50th anniversary of our most overpopulation, introduction of alien as drawn to the outdoors. This has potentially major ramifications Tel: +1 416.964.4400 for those of us who advocate on behalf of conservation and the very carefully managed under the highest of socio-environmental Email: [email protected] important conservation partners, the species in the municipalities and into environment. standards and guided by the realities of life on a small archipelago Freunde der Galapagos Inseln Charles Darwin Foundation and the the Park, we see overuse of scarce and in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. This must start with education. Switzerland Galapagos National Park Service. protected resources, and a growing When did you first visit Galapagos? Attaining a sustainable Galapagos will require a complete change Tel: +41 (0)1 254 26 70 We recall that Charles Darwin was economic footprint at odds with this Email: [email protected] In the 1990s, before tourism really took off. The number of visitors in how people view their relationship with this very fragile Web: www.galapagos-ch.org in Galápagos for five weeks during the isolated archipelago. We see a resident back then was around 40,000 a year and the islands had a resident ecosystem. HMS Beagle’s year-long voyage and population often in conflict with the Friends Of Galapagos New Zealand population of some 12,000 people. Today the annual number of New Zealand visited only 4 islands. His first reaction goal of biodiversity sustainability, and visitors is 173,000 and climbing and the resident population is well What else do you hope to achieve? Email: [email protected] was not enthusiastic we see economic activity which detracts into the 30,000s. Puerto Ayora in the 1990s was a small town where I would like to see CDF become a globally recognized center of www.galapagos.org.nz “Nothing could be less inviting from and damages the charismatic most people either walked or rode bicycles. Today, the number of excellence, providing highly rigorous empirical knowledge and Galapagos Conservation Trust than the first appearance…the resources upon which it is based. cars, trucks, and taxis is approaching 400 and they can cause traffic information for informing and shaping sound decision-making at United Kingdom multiple scales. CDF needs to have its greatest impact in helping Tel: +44 (0)20 7629 5049 country was compared to what we In this anniversary year, we realize tie-ups at times. Remarkable and very worrisome. Email: [email protected] Web: www.savegalapagos.org might imagine the cultivated parts of how much good has been done in agencies of the Government of Ecuador and other key partners the Infernal regions to be…” From Galapagos. We also are acutely aware What is your enduring memory from that trip? sustainably manage, conserve, and restore this vital ecosystem. The Japanese Association for Galapagos The magnificence, the beauty, and diversity of the islands. I Japan his descriptions of marine iguanas of the enormous pressures which But CDF is more than that. As a major institution working on the Tel/Fax: 03-5766-4060 (“disgusting, clumsy Lizards”) to his threaten to compromise the work that remember diving with penguins and sea lions. Penguins at the frontline of conservation and sustainability, CDF is well positioned Email: [email protected] equator! But beyond these magical moments I also observed the to play a lead role in shaping the vision, policies, practices, Web: www.j-galapagos.org fascination with tortoises (“…old has been done by the Government fashioned, antediluvian or of Ecuador and the international great fragility of Galapagos and even then I was concerned that partnerships, and institutional frameworks needed to advance local Nordic Friends of Galapagos rather inhabitants of another planet”), conservation community to protect this unplanned and poorly managed growth could potentially endanger and global sustainability. Finland this global treasure. Tel: +3358-50-5644279 Darwin was intrigued by the geology, extraordinary place. Email: k.kumenius@kolumbus.fi plant life, and fearless behavior of the We acknowledge and celebrate Web: www.galapagosnordic.org island’s wild inhabitants—as are visitors the important work of the Galapagos Stichting Vrienden van de Galapagos Eilanden to the islands today. National Park and the Charles Darwin The Netherlands Friends of Galapagos Organizations Tel: +31 313 421 940 I was recently asked what I thought Foundation in keeping this covenant Email: [email protected] Darwin would think today about the with nature. And we thank all the FOGOS Web: www.galapagos.nl state of Galapagos almost 175 years organizations and individuals around Following successful eradication projects on northern Isabela, environmental education into the local school curriculum in Zoologische Gesellschaft, Frankfurt after his visit. My answer was that the world who have been such a critical Santiago, and Floreana, the focus is now on the inhabited islands of Galapagos. Germany he would be pleased. Conservation part of their success. We wish Charles Galapagos where livestock are still present and the consequences The Friends of Galapagos in the Netherlands have provided Tel: +49 (0) 69-943446-0 of an increased human population are intensifying. In January support for the expansion of solar power capabilities at CDF’s Fax: +49 (0) 69-439348 efforts on the uninhabited islands Darwin the happiest of birthdays and Web: www.zgf.de have brought species back from the congratulations on his modest little text. the Frankfurt Zoological Society signed an agreement with the Galapagos-based research station. The use of solar rather than Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF), confirming $150,000 support diesel-generated power would reduce energy costs by 30% or Editor: Henry Nicholls this year. around $500 each month, demonstrating to the local community On February 12th, the UK’s Galapagos Conservation Trust and visitors how solar energy can be used. Designer: Lori Ulrich (GCT) held a prestigious fundraising dinner with Christ’s College CDF’s social science team is now up and running thanks to Galapagos News is printed on recycled paper. Cambridge to launch a lasting research link between Cambridge support from Galapagos Conservancy (GC). Their investment ______Johannah E. Barry University and Galapagos. CDF was represented by their Patron will strengthen CDF capacities to address key underlying issues in HRH the Duke of Edinburgh, new executive director Gabriel Galapagos relating to the social and cultural sciences. Tied in with Error Correction: On page 6 of the Fall 2008 President of Galapagos Conservancy Galapagos News, we made an error in a photo credit. Lopez, and director of technical assistance Felipe Cruz. Special this is GC’s support for the publication of the 2007–2008 Galapagos We would like to apologize to Sabine van der Meulen guests at the event included Sir David Attenborough, Sarah Darwin, Report. This publication has had an important impact on decision- of Boulder, CO for mistakenly crediting another Randal Keynes, and the Vice Chancellor of Cambridge. Following making and public perceptions of the issues in Galapagos. It will photographer for her beautiful photo of Galapagos Penguins. a successful pilot study, GCT is also funding a program to integrate also help to ensure a more integrated approach to research. 3

is further evidence that President Correa Tour Boat Disaster Rat Extermination on Isla Lobos Moreno and Puerto Chino, like many other from was serious about his announcements that roads in the archipelago, is defined under News Galapagos is “at risk” and its conservation GNP officials are investigating the cause of Rangers from the Island Ecosystems the GNP Management Plan as a public use “a national priority.” “There is now far a fire that led to the sinking of a tourist vessel Conservation and Restoration Team (CYREI) area within the borders of protected natural greater protection for Galapagos and other just off the popular island of Bartolome. of the San Cristobal Technical Office of the areas. Galapagos ecosystems in Ecuador than there was there The fire broke out on board the Parranda Galapagos National Park are exterminating Many different species can be found before,” says Margil. “That’s very important.” in the early hours of January 14. All of the rats at the Isla Lobos visitor site. along the Puerto Baquerizo Moreno–Puerto Provided by the Charles Darwin Foundation & 15 passengers and 11 crew members were Since the beginning of the year, CYREI has Chino highway. Those most affected by Going, Going Goats… rescued unscathed. As it went down, the set traps to control rodents on Isla Lobos. irresponsible driving include finches, The Galapagos National Park Service 125-ft-long vessel released small quantities These traps consist of toxic bait placed inside mockingbirds, and flycatchers. It cost GNP $6.1 million to remove goats of diesel fuel, but it is unlikely to cause PVC tubes, which prevent other species from are one of the primary attractions from Santiago, according to a recent article significant environmental damage, according consuming it. Each week, the tubes are of the Galapagos archipelago. The English in the Journal of Wildlife Management. But, to GNP. The boat will be removed by the checked and new bait is added to the traps scientist Charles Darwin was inspired to write the other populations—those on Plaza New Color for Land Iguanas the researchers argue, this was money well Parranda's touring company. where the bait has been eaten. his theory of of the species based Sur and Santa Fe—have particularly low spent and should act as a model for even According to the reports on his observations of the mockingbirds he genetic diversity so face an increased risk of Geneticists have discovered that a group more ambitious eradication efforts. presented by the rangers, the saw during his travels in the islands. . of mysterious pink iguanas belongs to an Between 2001 and 2005, GNP staff consumption of rat poison is “Our molecular results provide objective entirely new species. removed almost 80,000 feral goats from decreasing rapidly, which indicates Fire on Isabela Island data for improving continuing in situ species 2 The pink reptiles—nicknamed rosada—are the 585 km island, the third largest in the a decline of the rodent survival plans and population management found only near the summit of Isabela’s Wolf archipelago. This was achieved using a suite population in the area. for this spectacular and emblematic volcano, the highest in the archipelago. of eradication techniques, including packs of In order to increase reptile,” says Michel Milinkovitch, professor Staff from the Charles Darwin Foundation tracking dogs, aerial hunting by helicopter, effectiveness and safety of molecular genetics at the University of (CDF) and Galapagos National Park (GNP) and radio-collared “Judas” goats to help of the operation, the Geneva in Switzerland. stumbled across them during an expedition home in on remnant herds. This combination extermination methods back in 1986, but their existence has of approaches “likely decreased the length will be adjusted in the remained something of a secret until now. Rights of Nature and cost of the eradication campaign,” they coming months. DNA collected from 36 individuals is report. Islas Lobos is a small In September, Ecuador became the first clearly distinct from other populations of land The last 1,000 goats were the hardest to islet located 6.5 km country in the world to grant legal rights iguana in Galapagos—enough to warrant remove, sapping almost a third of all the The Parranda sinks near Bartolome. © GNP from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on to nature, further indication of President designating a new species, according to money spent, a lesson to other countries San Cristóbal Island. It is a very Rafael Correa’s commitment towards the an article in Proceedings of the National attempting a similarly ambitious eradication Native Plants popular visitor site in the National conservation of the country’s ecological Academy of Sciences. “These iguanas are program. Park because it is a nesting area assets. all that remain of a lineage that originated CDF botanist Rachel Atkinson has won for blue-footed boobies and frigatebirds, Ecuador’s new constitution, approved between 5 and 6 million years ago,” says No Show for George the Merit Prize for Ecological Conservation as well as home to marine iguanas, lava After receiving report of a fire during the by some 70% of the population, stipulates Gabriele Gentile of Tor Vergata University in for her innovative project to encourage lizards, finches, warblers, and sea lions. The afternoon hours of March 21st, personnel that nature “has the right to exist, persist, Rome, Italy and lead author of the study. All the eggs laid by the female tortoises greater use of native plants in Galapagos elimination of rats will help protect all of from the Galapagos National Park Service, maintain and regenerate its vital cycles, While not much is known about this new in Lonesome George’s enclosure have been gardens. This recognition should increase the the species which make Isla Lobos such an National Police, Puerto Villamil harbor structure, functions, and its processes in species, there are concerns about the viability declared infertile. pressure on El Mirador, a new development attractive site. authorities, Provincial Government, and evolution.” of the population. It’s estimated there may Last year, the two females that have shared to be constructed on Santa Cruz, to seed its Isabela Firemen’s Corp sped to the scene to In the US, there are several municipalities be fewer than 250 individuals surviving, with a coral with George for almost 20 years gardens with native species. Reducing Bird Deaths by Cars try to control the conflagration. two males for every female. More alarmingly, that already recognize the rights of nature. constructed three nests between them and The fire was centered in the agricultural Until recently, however, none of them had nobody has ever seen a juvenile, says produced a total of 20 eggs. GNP staff were Galapagos Flamingo Census The Technical Office of the GNP in San zone in the Cerro Verde area of Santo asserted the right of nature to evolve, Gentile. “We really need to collect data to able to recover most of these and incubate Cristóbal and the Environmental Protection Tomás, in the highlands above Puerto says Mari Margil, Associate Director of help the conservation of this form,” he says. them artificially. After several months, Under the direction of the GNP, staff and and Traffic Units of the National Police are Villamil, in southeastern Isabela. the Legal Defense Fund, a Pennsylvania- Geneticists studying populations of land however, with no sign of hatching, geneticists volunteers conducted a general census of the carrying out a campaign to reduce the The contingent deployed to fight the blaze based organization that helped Ecuador iguanas elsewhere in the islands are also confirmed that there was no evidence of flamingo population in Galapagos in order deaths of endemic and native birds along included eight park rangers, six police, draft this part of the constitution. The adding definition to our understanding of embryos in any of the eggs. to determine the status of the species. the road from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno to six members of the Navy, two members of Ecuadorians came up with the idea of this group of reptiles. What are currently The census took place at all 27 lagoons Puerto Chino. Firemen’s Corp, and a member of Civil adding in a reference to evolution, she says. recognized as two distinct species could, Combing Wolf Volcano simultaneously—guards and volunteers made This initiative seeks to limit deaths Defense, in addition to two backhoes and a “Communities in the US are now taking in fact, be more, they report in Molecular their way to each of the lagoons at the same caused by vehicles through education and tanker truck. Ecuador’s language and using it to make Ecology. In addition to rosada, two of An ambitious expedition to Isabela time. At a specified time, they began to count communication activities and improved Among the team’s first actions was the their own laws.” promises to reveal the hidden secrets of the and register the birds at each site. monitoring and signage. The GNP is training construction of an eight-meter fire-break to The idea of giving tortoises on Wolf volcano. Every guard was armed with a GPS, a ruler members of the National Police to use GPS halt the spread of the blaze. forests, rivers, and Unlike other areas of Galapagos, this to measure the water depth at each lagoon, and other tools in the monitoring of birds The Galapagos National Park Service, volcanoes rights is volcano is home to several different kinds of and a special form to record the data. and the recording of data. The program has in coordination with the Ministries of extremely new. When it tortoises, many of them hybrids between the “After many years, it has been determined been promoted through the local media. Government, Environment, and Defense, comes to the law, natural Wolf tortoise and those from other islands. that the best time to do the census is at The highway between Puerto Baquerizo brought in additional heavy machinery to ecosystems like these It’s thought that the movement of tortoises by 10:00 a.m. because that is the extinguish the fire. are typically treated as pirates and whalers may explain this strange busiest feeding time for flamingos The fire did not represent any danger for property, so are open to mix. and allows for better collection Galapagos species. The Cazuela exploitation by whoever In December, GNP staff and scientists of data,” said Tobias Robalino, a area, some seven kilometers from the happens to own the land. from Yale University spent 11 days on Wolf GNP guard who participated in the location of the blaze, was the nearest “With this vote, the people volcano and succeeded in collecting blood census event. site to the fire with a population of giant of Ecuador are leading the samples from 1,663 giant tortoises. Genetic 435 flamingos were counted in tortoises. way for countries around analyses are currently being carried out, and the entire archipelago, including the world to fundamentally it is hoped that they may turn up a female both adults and juveniles; 360 Species Lists change how we protect with Pinta-like genes that could be a more birds were found on Isabela Island; nature,” says Margil. suitable mate for Lonesome George. 48 were found on Santiago; 17 on The first ever comprehensive list Although it remains to Floreana; and 10 on Santa Cruz. of Galapagos species—marine and be seen whether and how Additionally, 38 old nests and 20 terrestrial—has gone online, thanks to the such revolutionary powers abandoned nests were counted. CDF (see http://darwinfoundation. A Pink Iguana on Wolf Volcano on Isabela. © Gabriele Gentile will be implemented, this org/en/checklists/). Galapagos Flamingos. © GNP   Life in In Darwin's the old geological footsteps Sally A. Gibson is a geologist at the Henry Nicholls is a freelance science University of Cambridge. The 2007 and journalist and the author of Lonesome bird 2008 expeditions to Galapagos were funded George (Macmillan, 2006). He is also the by the Geological Society of London, editor of Endeavour, a history magazine, Mineralogical Society of Great Britain and and the editor-in-chief of this publication, Trekking towards James Bay on Santiago. Ireland, University of Cambridge, and the Galapagos News. National Science Foundation. Floreana Mockingbird today. © Andy Thurman and Sally Gibson © Paquita Hoeck

harles Darwin’s musings on giant hunters. One excursion took him to James crystals would sink to the greatest depths his is a story of a mockingbird that only on Floreana, one exclusive to Isabela, demonstrate that the same was true for Ctortoises and mockingbirds are so well Bay, where Darwin visited the salt mines and lightest crystals would rise towards Tonce lived on the Galapagos island of and one inhabiting both San Cristóbal and the mockingbirds, with different islands known that it is easy to forget he was, first and collected samples from a prominent, the top. These differences would then be Floreana. It starts in late September 1835 Santiago. Gould made beautiful life-like inhabited by subtly different forms. Such and foremost, a geologist. During the five sparsely vegetated black-grey lava flow. manifested in the lavas erupted from a when Charles Darwin loaded his rifle, took drawings to illustrate Darwin’s Zoology facts, he felt, would “undermine the years Darwin spent on board HMS Beagle, He also went on two separate treks inland, single volcano, with the densest basaltic aim, and fired. The influence of this single of the Voyage of the Beagle that came stability of Species,” offering a glimpse more than three quarters of all the notes each lasting two days. These were up the magma emerging at its base and the least specimen on Darwin and its importance out a few years later in 1839, and it’s his into “that mystery of mysteries—the first he took were about geological matters, and slopes of the prominent inactive volcano dense trachyte at its greatest heights. This for us today is hard to overestimate. incarnation of the specimen that Darwin appearance of new beings on this earth.” geology was a major concern in the five that dominates the northwest of the island. was a radical departure from the then HMS Beagle’s first Galapagos stop was collected on Floreana that graces the cover So suggestive of evolution were weeks that he spent in Galapagos in late In addition to dozens of plant, bird, widely held view that the composition of San Cristóbal (then known as Chatham of this issue. Darwin’s Galapagos mockingbirds that, 1835. and animal specimens that Darwin volcanic rocks changed over geological Island), where Darwin bagged a single While Darwin was on Floreana, in On the Origin of Species, he painted a Darwin had been fascinated by volcanic took on these forays inland, he also time and it’s one that has influenced mockingbird. This was interesting the vice-governor of the islands—Mr. picture of how a few birds from mainland islands and was eager to know how they collected several rock samples that proved subsequent thinking on volcanoes. enough—it might turn out to be a species Lawson—told him that each island in South America might have reached the formed. Indeed, even prior to arriving in fundamental to his theory of how volcanic unknown to science and one he could the archipelago had its own particular archipelago, their descendents gradually Galapagos, he had described how eager islands form. He noticed that the lava claim credit for finding. It was, however, type of tortoise and boasted he could tell populating other islands and adapting to he was to reach the islands and witness near the green summit of the volcano was on Floreana (then Charles Island), them apart from their shells. Though the slightly different conditions found on an active volcano. On August 12, 1835 he different from those that he had studied when he collected his second Galapagos Darwin did not collect enough tortoises each. From there he broadened out his wrote: on its lower slopes at Buccaneer Cove and mockingbird, that he noticed something to confirm Lawson’s hunch, he was able to argument: “We see this on every mountain, "In a few days time the Beagle will sail James Bay. As he described in Volcanic crucial. “I fortunately happened to observe in every lake and marsh,” he announced for the Galapagos Islands—I look forward Islands, the base of Santiago’s volcano that the specimens which I collected in with a characteristic flourish. with joy and interest to this, both as being seemed to be comprised of black rock or the two first islands we visited differed For most of the 20th century, however, somewhat nearer to England and for the sake basalt. At the summit, by contrast, he had from each other, and this made me pay it was the Galapagos finches, not the of having a good look at an active Volcano." found a less dense, grey-green rock known particular attention to their collection,” he mockingbirds, that were credited with As it turned out, there were no as trachyte. A microscopic view of Darwin's trachyte. wrote of his mockingbirds. 14 November 2008 – 19 April 2009 turning Darwin into an evolutionist, eruptions at the time of Darwin’s visit This led Darwin to propose that there © Andy Thurman and Sally Gibson. So when Darwin subsequently stepped even though he left them out of the to Galapagos, but this did not stop him might be subtle but important differences ashore on Isabela and then on Santiago, Origin entirely. This is largely due to the from making some important geological in the composition of magmas inside The particular specimens that led to he made a special point of collecting a pioneering work of British ornithologist observations. Many of these assumed a volcano. He speculated that if these this insight are held at the University of mockingbird from each. In total, Darwin David Lack, whose influential 1961 a prominent place in his 1844 book on formed in a large chamber, the densest Cambridge’s Sedgwick Museum. They sailed away from Galapagos with four book Darwin’s Finches nested this phrase Volcanic Islands and remain fundamental are small, typically measuring less than 5 birds, one from each of the islands he had Some very small securely in the public imagination. Since differences inspired to our present-day understanding of cm across and are covered in lichen and visited, but he also had a chance to study a very big idea. then, a long-term study by Peter and Can you spot them? volcanoes. unsuitable for detailed study. Together other mockingbird specimens collected Rosemary Grant, where they have been If you look closely at their plumage you’ll notice differences between these two Some of Darwin’s greatest insights with an international team of scientists, I by Captain FitzRoy and others on board. mockingbirds, which Darwin brought able to witness evolution taking place, has back from the Galapagos Islands. The birds helped to inspire his theory of came from observations he made during set out, in 2007, to collect similar samples. En route to Tahiti, he noted a remarkable natural selection 150 years ago. If you kept the focus on the finches. can’t tell them apart here, come and see them in our Darwin exhibition. ten days on Santiago (formerly known as An additional goal of our expedition was possibility. Each of his four birds might And find out why his theory still inspires Now though, in 2009, with fresh our scientists at the Natural History James Island). On September 16, 1835, he to use these geological samples to pinpoint turn out to be “distinct species.” Museum in their groundbreaking work. attention focused on Darwin’s intellectual and a few trusted assistants landed and the exact route that Darwin took as he He was right. When John Gould, journey, his mockingbirds are staging a Book now at www.nhm.ac.uk/darwin set up camp at Buccaneer Cove in the scoured the island for ornithological, the Zoological Society of London’s Booking fee applies. South Kensington comeback. The Natural History Museum This exhibition is organised by the American Museum of Natural History, New York, in collaboration with the Natural History Museum, London, the Museum of Science, Boston, the Field Museum, Chicago and the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. northwest of the island. It was here that zoological, and botanical specimens. expert ornithologist, taxidermist, and in London has been looking after these Darwin collected most of his geological Darwin imagined a magma chamber beneath Starting our journey in Buccaneer artist, formally described the Galapagos Darwin's mockingbirds advertising the Natural birds ever since they landed in its care samples, but he also made several Santiago. © Andy Thurman and Sally Gibson. Cove, just as Darwin had done more than mockingbirds in 1837, he decided there History Museum's Darwin exhibition. more than 150 years ago. The museum excursions with Spanish-speaking tortoise 170 years ago, we hiked to James Bay and were three different species, one found © Natural History Museum, London used the first mockingbird Darwin  (continued on page 10) (continued on page 10)  AlmostAlthough we stubbornly refuse at least 100-fold. This will require strict limits on the volume oneto see in ourselves as an invasive of transport of people and cargo and a massive upgrading of Looking Back, Looking Forward... species in Galapagos, the damage quarantine controls on transport to and within the islands. With we'reevery causing is now more investment of a small fraction of the Galapagos economic product, To mark the 50th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Foundation, obviousfive than ever; we are, in fact, plus leadership with a long-term vision, both nationally and in the Galapagos News asked eight former directors to recall something speciesthe worst offender. Our growing islands, it could be done. from their time in charge and to reflect upon the islands' future. innumbers and detrimental activities should thus be curbed Graham Watkins (2005–2008) Köster with a juvenile swallow- immediately, and our comfort tailed gull he and his family saved Raymond Lévêque decisions, managing, and educating in these islands not be enhanced I was delighted to discover that the 1840 and reared to independence. CDF director from 1960–1962 others about the importance anymore—this frenzy has to stop. portrait of Charles Darwin—a picture I © Friedemann Köster. of science and conservation in These wonderful if not enchanted have used in hundreds of presentations islands, worth protecting for their —was painted by George Richmond, the When I arrived in Galapagos, there Galapagos, Ecuador and beyond. Galapagos shouldn’t be there. With Without this capacity, none of own sake, were never meant to be a paradise for man! great uncle of my grandfather. It shows was nothing, simply nothing. We had to large mammals being successfully improvise from the beginning, bringing in the very significant advances in, what a small world we live in and how, in supplies to build the Van Straelen building for example, removing invasive eradicatedGunther Reck from (1984–1988) all corners of the some senses, families have interacted with Watkins prepares that would form the heart of the Charles mammals would have been archipelago, efforts are now being Galapagos for hundreds of years—some to talk to members When I arrived in Galapagos in 1984, famous and some less famous. For me, this Lévêque arrived Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz. possible. Sitting at the wheel of CDF’s jeep, made to control or eradicate some of the Galapagos to find “nothing, It is my hope that awareness of Kramer drives HRH Prince Philip there were no computers on the islands. distils the importance of appreciating the Conservation Trust We also put up an outbuilding to house a lesser well-known, but equally simply nothing.” generator and a water tank so we could have Galapagos will be raised to such around Puerto Ayora in the early CDF's decision to buy some was surprisingly interconnectivity of Galapagos with the rest on Galapagos Day, © GC. light and fresh water. When I left there were a degree that it will be possible 1970s. © Peter Kramer. destructive,controversial. Theinvasive concern species. among scientists By of the world. 2006. © Peter Tulley. just these two buildings standing. to contain the immigration of Henryand students Nicholls was that it would set a trend, What Galapagos really needs is a The future of Galapagos lies in education. So long as there alien species to the islands, even with the wider community following charismatic and effective leader from the Reck welcomed are people who think Galapagos is just like anywhere else on reducing the arrival of new species to something like the levels suit, resulting in rapid and undesirable islands with a strong conservation bent. Galapagos does not lack computers to earth, there is not much we can hope to achieve. For example, that occurred before humans reached the archipelago in 1535. development. To a degree this turned financial and human resources, and yet seems to consistently Galapagos for the the residents simply cannot bring plants with them from the out to be the case, although computers move in the direction of growth and unsustainable development. first time. © CDF. mainland just because they want nice flowers. Not only are these Hendrik Hoeck (1978–1980) simultaneously revolutionized reporting, Excellent laws, plans, and ideas are developed but very few are invasive species themselves, but insects also reach the islands accounting, budgeting, and planning of implemented. So ultimately, it would appear that what Galapagos through this route. This doesn’t sound like something that is Before coming to Galapagos, I had been conservation efforts in the islands. lacks is the leadership to bring together disparate interests and particularly difficult to stop, but even this apparently simple task working on the hyrax in Africa’s Serengeti. Since then, my views towards the islands have changed a move toward a single shared vision that incorporates conservation presents a huge challenge. So I was immediately interested in the lot. I no longer imagine that the human population can be and sustainable development. impact that mammals were having in reduced. Instead, my main hope at the moment is that a younger Roger Perry (1964–1970) Galapagos. Shortly after taking up office, generation of "Galapagueños" will be able to raise local, regional, I remember seeing feral dogs wandering national, and international acceptance that ongoing development CDF Obituary The most urgent task in 1964 was to along the shoreline in southern Isabela. must be accompanied by very serious rules and controls to prevent further introductions of invasive species. David William Snow, director protect the surviving populations of giant In 1979, renowned zoologist Hans Kruuk Hoeck and his young of the Charles Darwin Research tortoises. So far as we knew there were only (who had worked on spotted hyenas daughter Paquita at Station from 1963 to 1964, died the remnants of colonies on Santa Cruz and alongside me in Africa) came to Galapagos work on Santa Cruz in Robert Bensted-Smith (1996–2001) on February 4, 2009 after a short the northern volcanoes of Isabela. Two other and assisted by two keen local biologists— the late 1970s. © Hans illness, aged 85. He was one of races, those of Pinzón and Española, were Hernan Vargas and Felipe Cruz—advised Kruuk. Europe’s foremost ornithologists, With sleeves rolled critically endangered. I proposed that we on an eradication plan. Within just two The decision to introduce a non-native ladybird to the islands to control cottony especially in the field of the up, Perry prepares should begin a captive-breeding program. years, feral dogs were gone from Isabela. ecology of South American forest for action. © CDF. This was to become one of our most This kind of cooperation is very important for successful cushion scale, a pest threatening scores of native plants, was momentous: the first birds. He arrived in Galapagos encouraging ventures, eventually being taken conservation. I hope national parks around the world follow after working in Trinidad and over by the newly formed GNP. By the end of 1970, the first batch this model, making greater efforts to share their knowledge and use of biological control in Galapagos. It illustrates the value of science in informing at Oxford. As well as steering of young Pinzón tortoises had been repatriated to their home experiences. This can be done by encouraging frequent visits from the Station through a difficult conservation decisions and of collaboration Bensted-Smith island, and the first Española hatchlings were being raised at the scientists, students, wardens, and administrative personnel and period under logistical and living across the scientific and conservation oversaw the new tortoise-rearing center. the greater involvement of young local people. conditions that few now can envisage, the Snows, communities. Just before leaving the implementation As one who long ago came under the spell of these islands, as David and Barbara (who died in 2007) were Islands in 2002, my wife and I accompanied of the Special Law I was saddened to learn that the archipelago has been relegated Friedemann Köster (1981–1983) universally known, made a major contribution to Galapagos National Park staff on an for Galapagos, the to a World Heritage Site “in danger.” I hope the Ecuadorian the study of the archipelago’s seabirds. The Snows expedition to release the ladybirds on the establishment of the government can yet restore the status of the islands and resolve I have many unforgettable memories of Galapagos: my first were among the most approachable and erudite of summit of Fernandina, the most pristine Galapagos Marine the underlying problems of spiralling human population growth recce [reconnaissance] of the islands on board the brand new scientists. In 1965, the year after they left, I inherited island in the archipelago. The occasion and Reserve, and the and development. Beagle IV; my days among the vampire finches of Wolf Island, their seabird studies on South Plaza and they could the spectacular setting brought a strong eradication of pigs which even came to taste my blood; and those awesome scuba- not have been more supportive. The world has lost sense of shared responsibility, mixed with from Santiago. Peter Kramer (1970–1973) dives amidst enormous shoals of hammerheads, all but gone two outstanding naturalists, and Galapagos has lost today. But also unforgettable are my many sorrows and long satisfaction, even elation. © CDF. Looking forward, I would like to see two longstanding supporters. I am proud to have played a part in educating and training sleepless nights, when the money promised to keep the research Mike Harris, Center for Ecology and Hydrology, UK people, most of them Ecuadorians, about the precious nature station going didn't arrive, when letters took ages to reach their Ecuador implement radical measures to of Galapagos. It is these people that are now leading, making destination, and answers even longer to return. reduce the influx and spread of alien species   Continued from Page 6, In Darwin's from the island. His Footsteps. exceptionally keen MEMBERS' CORNER collecting “eye” enabled also to Santiago’s summit. It was there him to find the rare that we located a small outcrop of grey- trachyte, a specimen Galapagos Fund Builds Local Capacity green trachyte, the rock type so crucial to so vital to one of leave a legacy in galapagos Darwin’s theory of how volcanic islands his most significant Travelers aboard Celebrity Xpedition can point to real impact on form. In spite of our best efforts, we could As a member of Galapagos Conservancy, you have been a part of contributions to the the ground, as contributions they have made to the Galapagos Fund not find trachyte anywhere else on the successful efforts to protect the unique biodiversity and landscapes geological sciences. at the end of their trips have been put to work. The Galapagos Fund island, strongly suggesting that Darwin of Galapagos. You can ensure that these efforts continue by Just as Santiago’s is a small grant program managed jointly by Celebrity Xpedition and had indeed reached Santiago’s summit becoming a member of the Galapagos Legacy Society—a special rocks proved an group of supporters who have demonstrated their commitment Galapagos Conservancy. It is designed to strengthen local capacity on at least one of his treks inland from inspiration for Darwin, to preserving the archipelago for future generations by making a and foster sustainable living in the islands. Buccaneer Cove. we hope the samples planned gift. With hindsight, it is fortunate that it collected in 2007 Since its inception in 2006, a total of 24 grants have been made for an was in northwest Santiago where Darwin and on a subsequent Member of the Galapagos Legacy Society maximize their approximate amount of US $350,000. Here are a few examples: and his assistants had the opportunity trip in 2008 will philanthropic giving in ways that meet their personal financial • Construction of 6,000 m2 of greenhouses on Santa Cruz, Isabela, to explore, for this part of the island strategies. Please consider: hold secrets that will and San Cristóbal islands. Greenhouse technology allows farmers boasts a diverse range of volcanic rock reveal more about the to make efficient use of the islands’ scarce water resources and types in close proximity to the sources of • Remembering Galapagos Conservancy in your will or living causes of widespread minimize the use of chemicals, as they substitute imported produce freshwater on which they so depended. volcanic activity in trust • Naming Galapagos Conservancy as beneficiary of a charitable (a major source of invasive species) with locally- and sustainably- Each of Santiago’s different rock types this extraordinary remainder trust that costs you nothing during your lifetime grown vegetables. is present in Darwin’s modest haul archipelago. Some of the rocks Darwin collected from Santiago. • Naming Galapagos Conservancy as beneficiary of a charitable • Training in organic agriculture. The Foundation for Alternative © Andy Thurman and Sally Gibson. lead trust which can preserve your estate for your family and Responsible Development in Galapagos (FUNDAR Galapagos), a Continued from Page 7, Life in the deliver years of support for Galapagos conservation local NGO, has provided training to children (ages 6-10) and adult Old Bird. • Naming Galapagos Conservancy as owner and beneficiary of a farmers on a range of topics related to organic agriculture. The life insurance policy or all or part of a retirement plan project also involved technical assistance and pilot projects related collected on San Cristóbal and the mockingbird collected by FitzRoy has to post-harvest storage and irrigation, and research on organic As a member of the Galapagos Legacy Society, you will receive a all-important second from Floreana in enabled researchers to get a feel for the methods of pest control for Galapagos. Native plants nurseries were a striking poster to advertise their big genetic makeup of the Floreana population Galapagos tortoise pin, designed by renowned Galapagos artist, Jacqueline de Roy, as well as other benefits. established for use by three local schools. exhibition on Darwin (page 7). as it was in Darwin’s day. “The two old • Strengthened local capacity to sterilize domestic cats and What’s more, visitors to the exhibition specimens from Floreana show a genetic dogs. Funding trained Ecuadorian veterinarians in spay and neuter have been able to see and appreciate the makeup that is intermediate to those of If you have not informed Galapagos Conservancy about your intention to make a planned gift, or to learn more, please contact techniques, equipped animal clinics, and educated local residents importance of these exact same birds, with birds still on Champion and Gardner, Richard Knab at (703) 383-0077 or [email protected]. about responsible pet ownership. Through the collaborative efforts of carefully labeled tags hanging from their telling us that we can use individuals from Animal Balance, a US-based NGO, the Inter-institutional Committee feet. “These two specimens have unique both satellite islands for reintroduction for the Management and Control of Introduced Species (CIMEI), value in showing how a careful scientist onto Floreana,” says Paquita Hoeck, a FOUR STAR RATING! and the local community, 96% of the current pet population in can develop a single field observation geneticist at the Zoological Museum of the Galapagos has been sterilized. Galapagos Conservancy has achieved the into a deep insight—in this case, one University of Zurich. • Community action to combat invasive species. Funding has that has helped toward a grasp of one of When Darwin scooped up the limp, coveted Charity Navigator 4-star rating for DNA samples from Floreana mockingbirds sound fiscal management. This is our second enabled a team of residents of Floreana Island to undertake a the essential factors in natural life,” says warm body of this bird back in 1835, collected by Darwin (left) and Fitzroy consecutive 4-star rating from America's systematic effort to eradicate invasive species from their island. Randal Keynes, a historian and great- smoothed its feathers and admired its (right). © Paquita Hoeck premier charity evaluator. We hope our The team is 1) surveying the agricultural area and National Park great-grandson of the famous naturalist. simple beauty, he could hardly have members will feel confident that their support is being used lands of Floreana in order to map the distribution of the most wisely and efficiently. Visit www.charitynavigator.org to see Darwin’s Floreana mockingbird is imagined the immense influence it was aggressive weed species, 2) eradicating these plants and monitoring also feeding into a bold project to restore to have on him and, through his ideas on our profile. Floreana as it appears in the Admiralty for reestablishment, and 3) working with farmers on the island to Floreana to something of its former glory. evolution, on all of us today. develop strategies for future control of these invasive species. Not long after Darwin’s brief visit, this map of Galapagos produced following the species disappeared from the main island Beagle voyage. © John Woram. Going Greener at GC Galapagos Conservancy, Celebrity Xpedition, and the project completely. Though it did not go extinct, Two ways you can help. . . beneficiaries thank those who have contributed to the Galapagos ; Fund, and welcome others to support these important projects. for two small populations still survive on the islets of Champion and Gardener-by- • Help us help the environment by requesting to receive this newsletter by email instead of by mail. It's simple: email Floreana just offshore. The Charles Darwin [email protected]. Put "Going Green" in Spotlight Donor Koa Halpern of Denver, Colorado Foundation and Galapagos National Park the subject line, and include your full name and address in the recently celebrated his 11th are now working to reintroduce surplus body. You'll receive a link to a PDF file twice a year, as well as "Bird-day." Instead of gifts, Koa birds back to the main island in an effort our bimonthly email updates. asked his party guests to make to sure-up the long-term future of this contributions to Galapagos • Become a Galapagos Conservancy monthly supporter. This Conservancy to help save the species. method of contributing is "green" because Monthly Supporters critically endangered Mangrove Incredibly, Darwin’s Floreana specimen, do not receive renewal notices or appeals in the mail—saving though long-dead, is contributing to trees, money, and room in your mail box. You choose the Finch of Galapagos. Many thanks this conservation effort. DNA extracted amount and frequency of your gift, and you can change your to Koa and his guests, who raised more than $300 for Galapagos from it and from a second Floreana preferences by contacting us at any time. Get more details and sign up at www.galapagos.org. conservation! 10 11150 Fairfax Boulevard, Suite 408

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