We admit it: We’re impressed by size, from state-fair-winning watermelons and Mark Zuckerberg’s bank account to the formidable dimensions of the Grand ­Canyon and Mount Everest. But nothing on terra firma gets our pulse racing as fast as a big coming out of the blue depths, sometimes at terrifying speeds. Skip this article if you suffer from megalophobia (fear of large things), but if you’re a fan of the truly colossal, you’ll love this gallery of the most electrifying­ ­big-animal ­encounters in the ocean, from the Arctic to the South Pacific. BY TERRY WARD

01 >> Great White ISLA GUADALUPE, MEXICO

South Africa and ­ are among a handful of places in the world where you can reliably get in the water for a cage match with great white sharks. When it comes to water clarity and insane topside views, how- ever, there’s no place like Isla Guadalupe. Save for a few scientists, this volca- nic island about 150 miles off Baja’s west coast is as unpopulated as it is exotic. Clouds cascade waterfall- style down rust-red cliffs into an ocean the color of mouthwash, where the great whites lurk. Migra- tory , the sharks traverse these waters from ­August through November to feed on elephant seals and other pinnipeds. And this is when divers descend on ­ (the only way to dive here) to ob- serve the animals up close from the relative comfort of ­aluminum cages. You’ll be hookah air from the surface, so if you forget to breathe for a bit — and you might — no worries. T EXPERIENCE LEVEL TRAVEL ROUNDUP

GO CONDITIONS 70°F WATER , 125 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY LEAVE YOUR MACRO LENS ON LAND FOR GO NOW SOLMAR V, SOLMARV.COM THESE WIDE-ANGLE ANIMAL WONDERS LOPRESTI DAVIDE scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 34 BIGscubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 35 GOBIG

02 06 Nerpa >> Dolphins >> Seals SOUTH AFRICA LAKE BAIKAL, RUSSIA Catching the legendary ­Sardine Run when it’s ­doing No one says getting to its thing is like witnessing S­iberia is easy. But ­Russia’s an underwater ­Serengeti. remote World Heritage- From May through July listed Lake Baikal is the off South Africa’s east only place in the world coast, billions of north- where you can dive with bound sardines are fodder nerpa seals. Endemic to this for an all-out frenzy that one particular lake, they are lures whales, sharks, div- an earless species related to ing ­gannets and dolphins. Arctic ring seals and among ­Common and bottlenose the only freshwater seals dolphins are the primary in the world. Nerpas can herders, working in teams weigh up to 260 pounds, to corral the sardines. With and like other seals are an ­estimated 18,000 dol- T ­underwater acrobats, div- phins ­following the Sardine TRAVEL ROUNDUP ing to depths of more than Run, this is one of the most 1,000 feet. They spend most reliable ­places in the world of the winter under the ice to see them. or in snowy lairs ­topside. EXPERIENCE LEVEL And while ice diving is one way to see them, we ­advise waiting for the sum- mer thaw to enjoy ­Siberia’s CONDITIONS 62°F WATER TEMPERATURE, 20 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY, STRONG ­fabulous hiking too. a magnet for mola molas. sharks on our dives are not just seeing the creature CURRENTS POSSIBLE EXPERIENCE LEVEL Settle in near the cleaning indiscriminate­ man-eaters­ jigged up on deck during GO NOW BLUE OCEAN DIVE RESORT, stations where they tend to but majestic, powerful trips in the Sea BLUEOCEANDIVE.CO.ZA gather. Nothing lowers your ­animals to be respected,” of Cortez is a thrill. “Our cli- heart rate like watching a says ­Michelle Cove, of trips ents say it’s the most alien CONDITIONS 54°F WATER ­TEMPERATURE mola mola do its cool and with Stuart Cove’s Dive thing they’ve witnessed — 07 IN SUMMER, 130 FEET AVERAGE ­VISIBILITY casual thing. Bahamas. Most are in the like seeing a creature from Tiger Sharks GO NOW BAIKAL DIVING, EXPERIENCE LEVEL 6-foot range, but you might outer space,” says Rocio del BEQA LAGOON, FIJI BAIKALDIVING.RU spot a few up to 8 feet long Mar owner Dora Sando- as you kneel on the sandy val. At night, dive guides “Set your lens and strobes bottom in the feeding arena jig up the — some wide, and don’t turn into a 03 CONDITIONS 80°F WATER TEMPERATURE, and take in the frenzy. ­specimens up to 6 feet long dribbling pile of sissy,” says 65 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY Mola Molas GO NOW ARENUI, THEARENUI.COM EXPERIENCE LEVEL — using lights to attract underwater photographer BALI, INDONESIA them in the deep waters Jeffrey Millisen of photo- 04 where sperm whales, which graphing tiger sharks. At Because they spend much are the ’ main preda- Tiger Cathedral, off of their time lollygagging Sharks CONDITIONS 80°F WATER TEMPERATURE, tor, are seen during the day. Beqa, Fiji, the striped beau- 80 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY near the ocean’s surface, NEW PROVIDENCE, GO NOW STUART COVE’S DIVE BAHAMAS, “They get pretty aggressive ties are lured by a feeding soaking up the sun’s heat, BAHAMAS STUARTCOVE.COM and excited,” says ­Sandoval box near a wall that drops mola molas are often re- of the squid, which are to 70 feet. As many as seven ferred to as ocean sunfish. No place has sharks like the 05 ­voracious eaters and often tigers show up on a single Known for their unusual Bahamas. And for all the engage in cannibalization ­frenetic dive. body shape, they can grow bulls, tigers and hammers SEA OF CORTEZ, as they’re being reeled in. EXPERIENCE LEVEL

up to 10 feet long and tip that await in this enormous MEXICO EXPERIENCE LEVEL the scales at 5,000 pounds, archipelago, accessible making them the heaviest dives with graceful Carib- In-water encounters with bony fish in the world. From bean reef sharks off Nassau aggressive Humboldt and (MUST HAVE AT LEAST 30 LOGGED DIVES) July to October, the clear deliver some of the headiest­ giant squids are very rare CONDITIONS 65°F-85°F WATER TEMPER- CONDITIONS 79°F WATER TEMPERATURE, ATURE, 60 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY 90 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY waters around Nusa Penida thrills. “Divers realize and only for very serious GO NOW ROCIO DEL MAR, GO NOW BEQA LAGOON RESORT, ­BEQALAGOONRESORT.COM off Bali’s southeast coast are that these Caribbean reef (or crazy) adventurers. But ROCIODELMARLIVEABOARD.COM OPPOSITE: GERALD NOWAK GREG LECOEUR.

scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 36 scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 37 GOBIG 08 Atlantic Sailfish ISLA MUJERES, MEXICO

Every year from January to March, shoals of sardines attract huge numbers of sailfish for one of the Carib- bean’s greatest feeding fren- zies. Keeping up with the fish as they use their bills, sails and color flashes to herd sardines will test even the fittest diver. But the re- wards are worth it. “To be in the water with the ocean’s fastest fish is as exciting as it gets,” says Swedish ­underwater photographer Magnus Lundgren. “They are the Ferraris of the sea. You realize how controlled T and deliberate their hunt for TRAVEL ROUNDUP the sardines is.” EXPERIENCE LEVEL

CONDITIONS 79°F WATER TEMPERA- 11 TURE, 65-100 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY GO NOW PRO DIVE MEXICO, PRODIVEMEX.COM Manta

09 them in person — what I open-mouthed with amaze- Rays KONA, HAWAII Scalloped had previously seen only on ment. To all but guarantee Hammerheads TV and in magazines — was encounters with the larg- GALAPAGOS, ECUADOR the ultimate justification of est fish in the sea, head to Underwater lights placed why I started diving.” ­Africa’s Tofo Beach, a tiny in the sand near Garden Of the endless ­Darwinian EXPERIENCE LEVEL travelers’ and Eel Cove set the stage for reasons to visit the mecca roughly 250 miles one of the world’s great- ­Galapagos in the eastern north of ­Mozambique’s est night dives. ­Swarming Pacific Ocean, the chance bustling capital, Maputo. plankton arrive first, and to fin among schooling scal- CONDITIONS 79°F WATER TEMPERATURE, From October to March, they are followed by huge 90 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY loped hammerheads is near GO NOW GALAPAGOS AGGRESSOR III, a nonstop supply­ train of manta rays that immedi- the top of every diver’s list. AGGRESSOR.COM ­plankton from the ­Indian ately start loop-the-loop Though hammers can be Ocean attracts the filter-­ feeding somersaults. “This spotted throughout the 10 feeding sharks, which is the only dive where the archipelago, Darwin and Whale Sharks sometimes roll up to animals are performers Wolf islands — accessible TOFO, MOZAMBIQUE 50 animals deep. But en- and the divers are both only by liveaboard — are countering whale sharks the audience and the stage the best spots to encounter­ There’s no better surprise­ are a ­quality over quan- lighting,” says Byron Kay them. June brings ­massive for visitors on a dive than tity experience — seeing of Kona Honu Divers. “The migrations, with the ani- whale sharks, which of- just one is enough to make mantas are like graceful mals ­often numbering in ten disappear into the blue your day. Operators offer alien ships dancing in an the thousands. Wayne B. as quickly as they appear. ­-only encounters. underwater rave.” Brown, CEO of Aggressor It’s practically a religious EXPERIENCE LEVEL EXPERIENCE LEVEL Fleet, remembers his first experience: With a ten- time in the water with these dency to eclipse the sun unique sharks: “There was when they cruise over- a virtual wall of them, from head, the bus-size spotted CONDITIONS 78°F WATER TEMPERA- CONDITIONS 80°F WATER TEMPERATURE, TURE, NIGHT DIVE as far deep and as high as I beauties can stop divers in 80 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY GO NOW KONA HONU DIVERS, GO NOW TOFO SCUBA, TOFOSCUBA.COM GREG LECOEUR. OPPOSITE: PETER G. ALLINSON, M.D. ALLINSON, OPPOSITE: PETER G. GREG LECOEUR. could see,” he says. “To see their tracks and leave them ­KONAHONUDIVERS.COM

scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 38 scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 39 GOBIG

12 Humpback >> Whales TONGA

“Getting to Vava’u is a bit of an ordeal,” underwater photographer Brandon Cole says of the remote Tongan­ island group, “but the humpbacks are so worth it.” From late June to November, the whales make this tropi- cal stop on their way north from Antarctic feeding grounds. Most of the whales are mellow mothers with young calves. But you might find yourself in the water T with feistier males too. “For TRAVEL ROUNDUP hot drops into the chaos of a testosterone-charged ‘heat run’ — with multiple males chasing a female — I switch my camera [from manual metering] to shutter-priori- ty metering,” says Cole. EXPERIENCE LEVEL

CONDITIONS 77°F WATER TEMPERATURE, 80 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY GO NOW TONGAN EXPEDITIONS, TONGANEXPEDITIONS.COM

13 Fur Seals NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA

Clearer waters make the an- tipodal winter months (May to October) prime time to dive or snorkel with thriv- ing colonies of Australian fur seals that frequent the waters around ­Jervis Bay, south of Sydney in south- eastern Australia. “They’re playful and curious and come right up to your face, then veer off and do somer- saults,” says Bill ­Mountford, owner of Dive Jervis Bay. And the fur seals’ habi- tats here — including a

cave on the side of a cliff — MIGNON VANESSA

scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 40 scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 41 GOBIG

­ are spectacularly­ scenic,­ 15 17 of the darkness and hang with beautiful sponge Oceanic Mantas 16 Napoleon Wrasse right near you and scare ­gardens and soft corals, and RAJA AMPAT, INDONESIA >> PALAU the bejeezus out of you,” ­frequent appearances by Beluga says Janine Lucas of Mike gray nurse sharks too. The West Papuan archipel- Also known as ­humphead Ball Dive Expeditions. Whales EXPERIENCE LEVEL ago of Raja Ampat has more and Maori wrasse — a EXPERIENCE LEVEL than 1,500 islands, cays and SVALBARD, ­reference to the intri- shoals to lure divers, and cate patterning around sits smack in the triangle Nothing can prepare you their heads that ­resembles CONDITIONS 63°F WATER TEMPERATURE, of biodiversity. Gill-raking for an encounter with tribal tattoos — Napoleon CONDITIONS 80°F WATER ­TEMPERATURE, 30-50 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY 50-70 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY GO NOW DIVE JERVIS BAY, practices prevail in many of these whales that are as wrasse are one of the most GO NOW MIKE BALL DIVE EXPEDITIONS, DIVEJERVISBAY.COM the world’s oceans, but both white as snow. Liveaboard ­outgoing and friendly crea- MIKEBALL.COM reef mantas and oceanic trips in Svalbard — an ar- tures you’ll encounter in 14 mantas are protected in the chipelago in the Norwegian the ­Indo-Pacific region. Sperm Whales waters around Raja ­Ampat, Arctic — cruise the coastal The largest of wrasses are 19 SRI LANKA where they appear in large fjords and even enter the among the world’s biggest numbers. The largest of all pack ice to look for belugas. reef fish too; they weigh up >> Giant A mask, flippers and ­snorkel rays, oceanic mantas can They tend to hug the coast to 400 pounds and could are all you’re permitted to weigh as much as 2,900 in numbers anywhere from easily blanket your car’s Pacific use when encountering pounds. But most of the five up to several hundred, windshield. Napoleons sperm whales off Sri Lanka ones you’ll see in Raja are says Sven Gust of North- have a curious streak that Octopus in the Indian Ocean. One smaller, with a wingspan ern Explorers, who runs endears them to divers. VANCOUVER ISLAND, T of Earth’s deepest-diving of around 15 feet. “They’re trips here under the mid- At iconic Palau sites such BRITISH COLUMBIA, TRAVEL ROUNDUP ­animals, capable of plung- as big as a blanket when night sun, in June and July. as Blue Corner and Pele- CANADA ing more than a mile to feed they move over you, and Entering with snorkel gear liu Express, divers are ap- on giant squid, local opera- with so much grace and el- and seeing how the animals proached by puppylike Forget all you know about tors find them when they egance,” says Seth Setiada, react is standard protocol. Napoleons that seem to be mini Caribbean­ octopuses.­ surface to breathe. a ­ J­ akarta-based­­ diver. EXPERIENCE LEVEL soliciting a pat on the flank. The bracing­ waters­ off EXPERIENCE LEVEL EXPERIENCE LEVEL EXPERIENCE LEVEL Vancouver­ Island­ set the stage for an octopus­ ­encounter on an entirely­ CONDITIONS 37°F-42°F WATER different scale. The TEMPERATURE, 20 FEET AVERAGE CONDITIONS 80°F WATER TEMPERATURE, CONDITIONS 84°F WATER TEMPERATURE, CONDITIONS 82°F WATER TEMPERATURE, VISIBILITY intelligent­ giant Pacific­ 30-80 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY 80 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY 82 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY GO NOW NORTHERN EXPLORERS, GO NOW SRI LANKA AGGRESSOR, GO NOW S/Y INDO SIREN, GO NOW SAM’S TOURS PALAU, ­octopus is the largest of NORTHERN-EXPLORERS.COM AGGRESSOR.COM SIRENFLEET.COM SAMSTOURS.COM all octopuses, averaging 16 feet across and weighing 18 around 110 pounds. They Potato Cod blend with their surround- , ings and live in large dens AUSTRALIA or caves, but they can be spotted in open areas too. Another enormous fish Color changes give insight with puppy-dog tendencies into their moods. “White is the potato cod, thought indicates fright, bright red to be named for their dark, is anger, and a dull brick- spudlike markings. But red octopus is tired as well don’t let the oft-mellow de- as angry,” says Washing- meanor of this fish — often ton diver Mike Reynolds, seen lying in the sand or who was once approached calmly ­cruising — fool you. from behind by a bright-red On shark-feeding dives in specimen (he managed to Australia’s Coral Sea, potato free himself thanks to loose cod are often seen zipping rocks preventing the octo- in and out of the action with pus from gaining a hold). immense power, scrapping EXPERIENCE LEVEL for scraps. They’ve been known to appear out of ­nowhere, even popping up CONDITIONS 57°F WATER TEMPERA- between a diver’s legs. “On TURE, 35 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY night dives at , GO NOW GOD’S POCKET RESORT, GODSPOCKET.COM

they love to cruise up out FLEETHAM/SEAPICS B. OPPOSITE: DAVID FRANCO BANFI.

scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 42 scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 43 GOBIG

Sea’s dive sites are a world are packed with colorful apart. Trips on the Red Sea fish. Heading to ­England 25

Aggressor­ that depart from to snorkel in the north >> southern Egypt are a safe ­Atlantic Ocean might seem Orcas way to visit the area to get ­counterintuitive. But it’s NORTHERN NORWAY up close with some of the worth beelining it to the most exciting sharks in the chilly waters off Cornwall There are operators who ocean. Oceanic whitetips from May to July to swim will take you scuba div- are reliably seen around alongside basking sharks, ing with orcas in Andenes the pelagic-magnet pin- the second-largest fish in and Senja in northern nacles of Daedalus Reef, the ocean. There is ­perhaps Norway. But ­snorkel-only Brother Islands and El- no more prehistoric-look- ­encounters are the best phinstone from October ing fish than these wide- way to ­appreciate these through ­December. “The mouthed, slow-moving dolphins as they enter sharks gather in 15 to 20 ­behemoths that can grow Andfjord­ from December­ feet of water under the live- up to 40 feet long. The long, to early February to feast aboards and make repeated sunny days of summer on massive schools of passes at any divers lucky bring plankton to the sur- herring.­ (Bubble-blowing­ enough to share the ­water,” face, which in turn lures the divers scare the herring says Sport Diver EMEA basking sharks. While they away, and when they leave, editor Mark Evans. “They are spotted elsewhere along so do the orcas.) ­Feeding can become rather frisky, the U.K. coastline, they ar- situations are the most but shark aficionados and rive here first. Cornwall’s thrilling, with several orcas T underwater­ photographers waters are also ­markedly herding herring in ­shallow TRAVEL ROUNDUP 20 will be in their element.” clearer than elsewhere, water. Float above or EXPERIENCE LEVEL and since all the action is at ­free-dive down for a look as Blue the surface, you won’t even they slap the fish with their miss your tank. If you want tails to stun them, sending Sharks to photograph one, “the scales flying everywhere. CONDITIONS 74°F WATER TEMPERATURE, trick is to spot the fin above As if orcas weren’t enough 100 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY GO NOW RED SEA AGGRESSOR, the surface, swim into po- of a thrill, there are usually Operators use ­pulverized AGGRESSOR.COM sition, float on the surface, humpbacks feeding in the sardine and mackerel to and wait,” says underwater area, and sometimes even attract blue sharks in the 24 photographer Alex Mustard. fin whales too. Atlantic waters off the re- Basking Sharks EXPERIENCE LEVEL EXPERIENCE LEVEL mote Azores. Back-roll­ UNITED KINGDOM off the Zodiac and drop down a line to wait for When most people think the show. Most of the about , they day- CONDITIONS 60°F WATER TEMPERATURE, CONDITIONS 41°F WATER TEMPERA- 40 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY TURE, 20 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY blues are in the 6-foot dream about warm, ­tropical GO NOW ATLANTIC DIVER, GO NOW LOFOTEN OPPLEVELSER, range, but their attitude waters and coral reefs that ATLANTICDIVER.CO.UK LOFOTEN-OPPLEVELSER.COM makes up for what they 21 says Jason Hillier of Arctic­ else. The scythelike tail that one of the toothiest and lack in size. “Showing Narwhals Kingdom. “They are like commands almost half of ­tailsome shows of your life. no signs of stress, they NUNAVUT, CANADA underwater acrobats, and its torpedolike body and EXPERIENCE LEVEL roam the water around the younger whales seem to can alone weigh more than the boat and the bait box, Often called the unicorn ­truly enjoy checking us out.” 700 pounds gives this ani- and come over to the of the sea, the narwhal EXPERIENCE LEVEL mal an unmistakable look. lines for a closer look at is known for a spiraling, That they use those tails CONDITIONS 84°F WATER TEMPERA- TURE, 65 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY, the bubbling visitors,” swordlike protuberance S&M-style to stun or kill STRONG CURRENTS POSSIBLE says German photogra- from its head that’s actu- prey makes them all the GO NOW SEA EXPLORERS, ­­ pher Daniel Brinckmann. ally an erupted tooth rather CONDITIONS 29°F WATER TEMPERATURE, more fascinating and in- SEA-EXPLORERS.COM 80 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY “Don’t be surprised if one than a horn. Entering the GO NOW ARCTIC KINGDOM, timidating. Threshers exist gives your strobes a little water in Arctic Canada with ARCTICKINGDOM.COM in all of the world’s ­tropical 23 toothy treatment.” these fantastical creatures oceans. But for the most Oceanic Whitetip EXPERIENCE LEVEL is inspiring. During May 22 reliable ­sightings, Mala- Sharks and June, you’ll gear up in Thresher Sharks pascua — a tiny island off RED SEA, EGYPT your drysuit atop landfast , the northern tip of Cebu ice miles out to sea, then PHILIPPINES in the ­Philippines — is the With aquariumlike visibil- CONDITIONS 71°F WATER TEMPERA- plunge in at the floe edge. spot. ­Cleaning stations at ity and some of the most TURE, 60 FEET AVERAGE VISIBILITY GO NOW NORBERTO DIVER, “You can hear them loud You likely won’t ­mistake a the dive site called Monad beautiful soft coral ­gardens

NORBERTODIVER.PT and clear as they vocalize,” thresher shark for ­anything Shoal are magnets for JORDI CHIAS; GREG LECOEUR TOP: FROM in the world, the Red

scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 44 scubadiving . c o m JULY 2016 / 45