Angelo Seminara and Great Lengths Take Long Hair To

BEAUTY IS OUR BUSINESS FEBRUARY 2018

ANGELO SEMINARA AND GREAT LENGTHS TAKE LONG HAIR TO EXTREMES IN NAMIBIA 11 Tool Innovations to Try ■ IT LIST ■ Johnny Wright’s Incredible Hair Journey ■ ARCHIVE ■ Miami’s Newest Salon Haute Spot ■ YOUNG AMERICANS ■ Good Thinking: Our Annual Guide to Education

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©2017 QUESTEX MEDIA LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. SOURCE CODE: 100 NEW YORK MARCH 4-6 MASTER CLASS ES ADDITIONAL FEE REQUIRED: $240 by 3/3/18 $265 after 3/3/18 SATURDAY MARCH 3 SUNDAY MARCH 4 MONDAY MARCH 5 CONFERENCE PROGRAM AT A GLANCE 1:00 – 4:00pm 11:00am – 1:00pm 10:00am – 12:00pm ROOM 1E02 ROOM 1E02 ROOM 1E02 The Social Media Summit Beyond Cre8tivity To Be Announced EMCEE: BONNIE BONADEO THE BEAUTY JOHN SIMPSON & VISIT IB YORK.COM SAVE $12 PER DAY AGENT NETWORK CHRISTOPHER DOVE FOR UPDATES NOTE: THIS CLASS IS HELD ON COCRE8 WHEN YOU REGISTER AT SATURDAY MARCH 3 IB YORK.COM

FREE CONFERENCEYOUR PAID PROGRAM EXHIBIT SUBJECT HALL TO CHANGE TICKET HAIR FOCUSED CLASSES TECHNIQUES & TRENDS COLOR EXTENSIONS & LOSS SUNDAY MARCH 4 ROOM 1E21 ROOM 1E15 ROOM 1E20 ROOM 1E14 ROOM 1E09 ROOM 1E16 10:30am – 11:45am Karg + Team, Unplugged The Art of Camo Curls Gone Wild The Color Experience To Be Announced Bridging the Gap Between 18: All American Haircutting MARLO STEENMAN ERIC MOKOTOFF VISIT IB YORK.COM Trichology and Dermatology MIKE KARG PATRICIA GROOMS-JONES MARLO HAIR IAS RAW INDEPENDENT ACADEMY FOR UPDATES RODNEY BARNETT SESSIONS KARG INC THE BEAUTY HAVEN INNOVATIONS TODAY

12:15pm – 1:30pm The Craft of Power to the Tools – Cutting, The Art of Technical Coloring Textured Hair Simple Haircolor Conquer Creative Freedom Precision Cutting Styling & Finishing Cutting TONI GARCIA JACKSON CARLOS VALENZUELA hairtalk extensions PAUL STAFFORD RICHARD SANTIAGO Y FANONE PRODUCT CLUB CARLOS VALENZUELA BEAUTY VICTORIA CASCIOLA DENMAN OLIVIA GARDEN FI HAIR HAIRTALK

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MONDAY MARCH 5 ROOM 1E21 ROOM 1E15 ROOM 1E20 ROOM 1E14 ROOM 1E09 ROOM 1E16 10:30am – 11:45am The Joy of Dry Cutting Moving Hair Volume 2 Textured Haircuts for Blondest Blondes Secrets of a Colorist: Growth Factors YANCY ED ARDS MARTIN PARSONS the Rest of Us MAX ELI Coils, Kinks & Curls & Trichology BONIKA SHEARS INTERMAR PRODUCTIONS RYAN TEAL MAX ELI LLP DESTINY COX ATTER THE TEALS DCI ACADEMY XTC - HAIR REJUVENATION SYSTEMS

12:15pm – 1:30pm Karg + Team, Unplugged Creative Haircutting Bridal Styles Foiling & Balayage Simple Haircolor Start, Maintain and 18: All-American Through Fundamentals VERONICA SHUR AMANDA LENZ CARLOS VALENZUELA Repair Locs MIKE KARG AARON JOHNSON VERONICA SHUR PRODUCT CLUB CARLOS VALENZUELA BEAUTY JUSTIN KACE KARG INC THREE EDUCATION JUSTIN KACE

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SUN MARCH 4 ROOM 1E04 ROOM 1E11 ROOM 1E13 ROOM 1E03 MON MARCH 5 ROOM 1E04 ROOM 1E11 ROOM 1E13 ROOM 1E03

10:00am - ARROJO Cut Men’s Hair Balayage HD Makeup for 10:00am – Braids & Bridal The Art of The Color Flawless Application 1:00pm American Wave Like a Pro Free-Hand & Foil Print & Film 1:00pm Hair Styling Technical Cutting Experience Techniques for Certification ANZA POOLE Techniques KARI KISCH GENEVIEVE STRAZISAR Y FANONE ERIC MOKOTOFF Brides & Bridal Party NICK ARROJO ICONIC BARBER SHERRY RATAY KARI KISCH MAKEUP TED GIBSON EDU FI HAIR IAS RAW INDEPENDENT EVE PEARL ARROJO NYC SHERRY RATAY HAIR ACADEMY SESSIONS EVE PEARL

2:00pm - Creative Haircut- Balayage Hair The Highlighting Speedy 2:00pm – Beachy Highlights Sahag Dry Cut Donna Bella Grow a BOOMING 5:00pm ting Techniques Painting Strategy that Application of 5:00pm & Hair-Painting EIJI YAMANE Hands-On Certifi- Brow Business in that will Leave JIMMY HILTON Works on Everyone Individual Volume Made Simple SAHAG WORKSHOPS cation Course Your Salon You Fearless! TED GIBSON EDU MARCO PELUSI Lash Extensions ELAINE TRAVIS BAELEE REITER MALYNDA VIGIOTTI DJ MULDOON MARCO PELUSI HAIR QUYEN NGUYEN EXPERT COLOR DONNA BELLA HAIR BOOM BOOM BROW BAR THE FACTORY STUDIO INC. EVALASH BEAUTY SOLUTIONS EXTENSIONS

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MEN’S MAKEUP NAIL ART THE BUSINESS SIDE OF BEAUTY ROOM 1E19 ROOM 1E18 ROOM 1E05 ROOM 1E10 ROOM 1E07 ROOM 1E08 SUNDAY MARCH 4 Classic Barbering 101 Brush Up! The Modern Master Your Technique 3 Powerful Steps to Mastering Your Leadership To Be Announced 10:30am – 11:45am GREG ZORIAN Airbrushed Bride JAIME SCHRABECK Raising Your Prices PAUL DIGRIGOLI VISIT IB YORK.COM ZORIAN OF NEW YORK JILL GLASER PRECISION NAILS ZAN RAY DIGRIGOLI SEMINARS FOR UPDATES MAKE UP FIRST SCHOOL ZAN RAY SALON COACH

Johnny B. Elite Clipper Flawless Bridal Squeeze, Slice and Roll! The #1 Marketing Tool to Power-On for Success To Be Announced 12:15pm – 1:30pm Cutting Techniques Application Techniques POLYGEL by GELISH Grow Your Business SHANNON LEEHR VISIT IB YORK.COM GABRIEL QUINONES EVE PEARL JESSE BRUNER ALEJANDRA CRISAFULLI STX FOR UPDATES JOHNNY B. HAIRCARE EVE PEARL GELISH & BONNIE BONADEO NAP EVENTS

Flawless Fades To Be Announced From Full Set to On Set: Salon Success Secrets Financial Fitness– #NoSlowDays 2:00pm – 3:15pm KENNY DUNCAN VISIT IB YORK.COM Session Manicuring DEREK MALDANADO 6 Ways to Increase DESTINY COX ANDIS FOR UPDATES ASHLEY GREGORY INSPIRING CHAMPIONS Profitability DCI ACADEMY THE NAILSCAPE STEPHEN GOMEZ STEPHEN GOMEZ BUSINESS COACHING

Total Men’s Grooming Strip Lashes 101 Stop Whining and Nail It! Attract New Clients with a Strategic New Advantages Social Media and the 3:45pm – 5:00pm RODRICK SAMUELS LISA STRA THER LÁSHAUN BRO 5-Star Online Reputation of Salon Suites! Power of Influence HAIR LAB DETRIOT MAKING UP LAS VEGAS SPEAKING ON POINT JUSTIN ALLEN LARRY OSKIN EVE PEARL IMATRIX MARKETING SOLUTIONS EVE PEARL

ROOM 1E19 ROOM 1E18 ROOM 1E05 ROOM 1E10 ROOM 1E07 ROOM 1E08 MONDAY MARCH 5 To Be Announced Editorial Face From Full Set to On Set: 3 Powerful Steps to Successful Pricing, To Be Announced 10:30am – 11:45am VISIT IB YORK.COM LISA STRA THER Session Manicuring Raising Your Prices Service Menu & Marketing VISIT IB YORK.COM FOR UPDATES MAKING UP LAS VEGAS ASHLEY GREGORY ZAN RAY Device Strategies FOR UPDATES THE NAILSCAPE ZAN RAY SALON COACH LARRY OSKIN MARKETING SOLUTIONS

The Iconic Philly Fade How to Microblade: Squeeze, Slice and Roll! Generation Gap Recruiting 101: Become a Social 12:15pm – 1:30pm ANZA POOLE Create Diva Style Brows POLYGEL by GELISH Communications The Do’s and Don’ts Media Maven & CRAIG MCLAURIN QUYEN NGUYEN JESSE BRUNER ALEJANDRA CRISAFULLI STEPHEN GOMEZ SHANNON LEEHR ICONIC BARBER EVALASH BEAUTY GELISH & BONNIE BONADEO STEPHEN GOMEZ BUSINESS COACHING STX NAP EVENTS

Tour of Techniques Elevating Eyes Charge What You're Worth! Attract New Clients with a The 168 Hour Theory to Social Media - Strategies 2:00pm – 3:15pm JES SUTTON KARI KISCH LÁSHAUN BRO 5-Star Online Reputation Entrepreneurial Success for Any Business or Budget & ANTHONY MARASCO KARI KISCH SPEAKING ON POINT JUSTIN ALLEN NIKKI TRO AMY CARTER BARBETORIUM EDUCATION IMATRIX THE STATEMENT PROJECT EMPOWERING YOU

Cut and Style the Corrective Makeup: Waterless Spa Pedicure Mastering Your Leadership Common Misconceptions Social Media - 3:45pm – 5:00pm Perfect Pomp Contouring & Highlighting JAIME SCHRABECK PAUL DIGRIGOLI in the Beauty Biz Play To Win GREG ZORIAN in 2 Steps PRECISION NAILS DIGRIGOLI SEMINARS TINA ALBERINO PATRICK MCIVOR ZORIAN OF NEW YORK EVE PEARL THE UGLY BEAUTY BUSINESS PATRICK MCIVOR COLOR STUDIO, INC EVE PEARL NEW

There’s a new crew in town and they’re here to extend the style party. SUGAR DRY CLEANSE SUGAR DRY CONDITIONER SUGAR TEASE

To get Paul Mitchell Neon in your salon, contact your John Paul Mitchell Systems® Distributor. Follow @NeonHair and visit neonhair.com for tips and tricks. February 2018 CONTENTS departments features

21 57 70 76 ■ IT LIST ■ BEAUTY VAULT ■ TEAR SHEETS Earth, Wind & Fire Fabulous finds from Unlocking this Inspirational Angelo Seminara brings long-hair the pop culture scene month’s cutting-edge collections from beauty to life amid the dunes of Salon64 lands in techniques and the global artists Namibia. London; Balenciaga products to create Truss recreates a on display; a Vivienne them century of waves; All about curls; must- Aveda’s Lupe Voss 82 Westwood biopic; Adir Rebels with a Cause Abergel accessories; have styling tools; shines the spotlight on The award-winning Rush Artistic Team Pamela Love and Joya banish the brass; the shadow roots. creates fearlessly modern looks in an collab. new nudes; seven homage to female strength. products to check out.

27 ➤ in every issue ■ THINK TANK 67 AmericanSalon.com 13 The go-to guide for ■ TALK SHOW Publisher’s Note 15 salon profitability The Influencers, Editor’s Note 16 Marie Robinson jets Young Americans Cover Look 19 to Miami; XpresSpa’s First Lady Michelle Archive 88 new Dermalogica Obama’s stylist, services; an app for Johnny Wright, rocks textured hair; five LA; Cutler SoHo’s revenue-boosting tips; globetrotting talent. 83 barbershops that do good.

67 30

79 69

57 21

February 2018 americansalon.com 9

EDITORIAL Editorial Director KELLEY DONAHUE; [email protected] Art Director JORDINO DE LOS SANTOS; [email protected] Executive Editor ANDREA DAWN CLARK; [email protected] Senior Editors KRISTEN HEINZINGER; [email protected] MAUREEN SHEEN; [email protected] Associate Digital Editor MICHELLE MCKELVEY; [email protected] Contributing Art Director JEANNIE OBERHOLTZER Contributing Editor CORIE HENGST

MANAGEMENT Publisher BRETT VINOVICH; [email protected] Vice President of Content RUTHANNE TERRERO; [email protected]

SALES/MARKETING Eastern Regional Sales Director ANTHONY R. GIANNOCCORA; [email protected] Account Manager KRISTINE COMPTON; [email protected] Group Marketing Director TINA KASSIMIS; [email protected] Senior Marketing & Education Manager NATASHA BHALLA; [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOWS PRODUCTION/CIRCULATION Vice President, IBS Events LIZA WYLIE; 203/227-9875 Audience Development Manager CAROL HATCHER; 216/586-5620 To attend IBS New York: 800/427-2420 Publishing Operations Director HAL GARSTEIN; 212/895-8439; [email protected] To attend IBS Las Vegas: 800/496-9861 Production Specialist LYNN ERDAHL; 212/895-8499; [email protected] To exhibit at IBS New York or IBS Las Vegas: 212/895-8234 Senior Digital Imaging Specialist JON SHAW; [email protected]

LIST MANAGEMENT REPRINTS/LICENSING MeritDirect Wright’s Media ANTHONY CARRATURO; 914/368-1083; [email protected] 877/652-5295

President and Chief Executive Officer KERRY C. GUMAS Chief Financial Officer DEBRA S. MASON Chief Revenue Officer, Questex Digital BETH BRONDER Executive Vice President and Chief Digital Officer STEVE KURTZ Senior Vice President Sales and Business Development JACK FORDI Senior Vice President Digital Content and Product ANTHONY DeBARROS

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Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use of specific clients is granted by Questex LLC, for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923. Phone: 978/750-8400; fax: 978/750-4470. Call for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. For those not registered with the CCC, send permission requests to Wright’s Media, 877/652-5295. American Salon does not verify any claims or other information appearing in any of the advertisements contained in the publication and cannot take any responsibility for losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content. American Salon welcomes unsolicited articles, manuscripts, photographs, illustrations and other materials but cannot be held responsible for their safekeeping or return. Questex LLC provides certain customer contact data (such as customers’ names, addresses, phone numbers and e-mail addresses) to third parties who wish to promote relevant products, services and other opportunities that may be of interest to you. If you do not want Questex LLC to make your contact information available to third parties for marketing purposes, simply call 866/344-1315 or 847/513-6024 if outside the U.S. between the hours of 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m.

American Salon (ISSN 0741-5737) is published monthly (12 issues) by Questex LLC, 757 Third Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10017. Subscription rates $44.00, 1-year, $66.00, 2-year in the United States & Possessions; $57.00, 1-year $85.00, 2-year in Canada and Mexico; all other countries $66.00, 1-year, $99.00, 2-year. For air-expedited service, include an additional $75 per order annually. Single copies (prepaid only): $8.00 in the United States; $10.00 in Canada and Mexico: all other countries $12.00. Include $6.50 per order plus $2 per additional copy for U.S. postage and handling. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY 10199 and additional mailing offices. Post Master: Send address changes to American Salon PO Box 1267, Skokie, IL 60076-8267. Canadian G.S.T. number: 840 033 278 RT 0001. Publications Mail Agreement Number 40017597. Printed in the U.S.A. Copyright 2017 by Questex LLC, All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including by photocopy, re ording or information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Questex LLC for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, phone: 978/750-8400, fax: 978/750-4470; call for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. For those not registered with the CCC, send permission requests to Wright’s Media 877/652-5295. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, art, and other material will not be returned. Publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, art, and other materials. To order reprints contact Wright’s Media 877/652-5295.

February 2018 americansalon.com 11 HOTTER STYLES AT LOWER TEMPERATURES

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NAILED What I Like About You IT Hairdressing These days, fashion JAN ARNOLD, Whether you fell in love with isn’t limited to just co-founder and style hairdressing while you were director of CND clothing. As we’ve see braiding a friend’s hair in on some of the world’s elementary school, or you biggest runways, felt inspired at your very nail art is continuing first salon visit, chances are to play a prominent you can remember the exact role in the fashion CHELSEA JAMES moment you realized your scene. CND’s Jan passion for the craft. But Arnold and Morgan what made you stick around? MORGAN HAILE & Taylor namesakes TAYLOR DANIEL, We talked with a few industry Morgan Haile and Morgan Taylor namesakes favorites, including Chelsea Taylor Daniel talked James, Nick Stenson, to us about all things Rebecca Heile and Michelle nails. Read more on O’Connor, to learn what AmericanSalon.com. they love most about NICK STENSON their jobs. Head over to AmericanSalon.com to hear what they had to say. CND used holographic gems and animal prints at The Blonds SS18 NYFW show

It’s All In The Details REBECCA HEILE Every queen needs a crown—or at least a stylish hair accessory. From the simplicity of deliberately placed bobby pins to elaborate jewels and barrettes, we took to Instagram to round up some of the most fashion- forward accessories in the hair game. Visit AmericanSalon.com to

@kiyoigarashi see more of our favorites. MICHELLE O’CONNOR

STAY IN TOUCH Follow us on social media

@hairandmakeupbysteph

@jenniekaybeauty americansalon @American_Salon

February 2018 americansalon.com 13 97% HYDRATING GLOSS PLUMPER Lips look plumper & feel hydrated*

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& local distributors * Percentage based on consumer perception studies www.grandecosmetics.com | www.grandewholesale.com | 1.877.835.3010 publisher’s note The Choice BIG HEARTS Of Professionals One of the things that makes me extremely proud to be part of this industry is that it has an enviable track record of doing good and giving SINCE 1980 back. From assisting salons devastated by natural disasters to helping support the next generation of beauty pros, manufacturers, distributors and stylists have demonstrated time and again they are ready, willing and able to step forward, going the extra mile to lend a helping hand. One such important cause American Salon is co-sponsoring is the Sixth Annual Beauty Changes Live Experience on April 29 at the Art Institute of Chicago (beautychangeslives.org). The evening affair at America’s Beauty Show by Cosmetologists Chicago is the primary fundraiser for the Beauty Changes Lives Foundation, which has helped hundreds of salon professionals successfully begin their careers through scholarships. Much of the professional beauty industry will be on-hand, myself included, to celebrate those who have given back, as well as those who will lead the future. “The evening will show the creative possibilities that arise when the energies of NextGen talent combine with the savvy of iconic brands to explore the essence of our theme—Exposed,” says Lynelle Lynch, president of the Beauty Changes Lives Foundation. Pivot Point International—the creative force behind the event—developed the evening’s theme, which explores the realm where superficiality and commercialism are discarded and the deep, true essence of a brand and what it stands for are divulged. “Brands are under a tremendous amount of pressure these days, and transparency is the key to gain trust from consumers,” says Lauren Conway, Beauty Changes Lives executive director. “We’ve asked our sponsors to fully immerse their NextGen talent in the brand, so that they have the ability to translate, on stage, what that brand truly stands for.” In the spirit of giving back, I hope you can clear your schedule and support this very worthwhile cause.—Brett Vinovich, publisher, [email protected]

Attendees view hair artistry at the 2017 Beauty Changes Lives event.

For more detailed information and a distributor near you, please visit tweezerman.com or call 1.800.645.3340 editor’s note

SMART GROWTH If there’s one thing that pro beauty education advocate Virginia Meyer and I have in common, it’s our passion for the industry and a commitment to helping hairdressers grow. “Great stylists see their work as a craft,” says Meyer. “They understand with their whole being that learning and practice never end—there is always something to learn.” That hunger for knowledge is exactly what we took to heart when filling the pages of Good Thinking, our annual guide to education, a special supplement in this month’s issue. It’s filled with innovative concepts designed to help salons succeed and prosper, including a piece penned by Meyer on how to make your salon stand out and up your customer service. If inspiration is part of your game plan, you won’t want to miss International Beauty Show (IBS) New York. The perfect mix of art and commerce, this year’s show (March 4-6 at the Jacob K. Javits Center in New York City), features top talent, such as Martin Parsons and Nick Arrojo, hands-on workshops and business-building classes. Also debuting are a Mane Attraction Stage, where beauty pros can glimpse cutting-edge hair techniques, and a Finishing Touch Stage, showcasing makeup and nail trends. Prepare to learn! I look forward to seeing you there. For further details, visit ibsnewyork.com. —Kelley Donahue, editorial director, [email protected]

IN MEMORIAM: Dr. David W. Cannell, colleague, mentor and friend to so many, passed away on December 24, 2017. After earning a PhD in Physical Organic Chemistry from Yale University in 1970, he joined Redken in 1972. His contributions to research, product development and international marketing eventually earned him the title of David Cannell with senior vice president. He was revered by hairdressers, who L’Oréal Professional Products Division’s attended his presentations that fused beauty and science, Christine Schuster and was beloved by the consumer beauty press for his ability to make science sound sexy. Following Redken’s acquisition by L’Oréal in 1993 and its subsequent move to the East Coast the following year, Dr. Cannell’s R&D scope evolved to include heading up all L’Oréal USA hair brands until he retired in 2009.

cover look

FORCES OF NATURE DRAMATIC IS EXACTLY WHAT HAIRSTYLIST Angelo Seminara envisioned when he chose Sossusvlei as the site for his shoot with human- hair extensions brand Great Lengths. Situated in Namibia’s Namib-Naukluft National Park, the destination is characterized by some of the largest and most colorful dunes in the world. “The lighting casts a different glow on them depending on the time of day, so Andrew O’Toole, our photographer, and I had little doubt the images would be pretty impressive,” says Seminara, a four-time recipient of the CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Angelo Seminara is all British Hairdresser of the Year Award (2007, smiles after winning one of his British Hairdresser of the Year 2010, 2012 and 2016). To ensure the styles Awards; colorful hair extensions; were in sync, Seminara applied Great Lengths Seminara adjusts the model’s hair; Dune 45; Sossusvlei’s extensions that he had colored before finishing colorful dunes; the Agama River Camp was Seminara’s home the designs with products from the Davines while on location. Your Hair Assistant range. High-fashion, feminine and flowy clothes tied the concept together. “Because the desert wind plays games from sunrise to sunset, constantly reshaping the dunes, I wanted a similar effect from the clothing to achieve wondrous free-flowing silhouettes,” says Seminara. The one and only challenge Seminara hadn’t contemplated encountering was the weather. “When you shoot in an open-air location, conditions can take over, so you need to be prepared and patient,” he says. “Fortunately, my wonderful team made the impossible possible.”—Kelley Donahue : ANDREW O’TOOLE; HAIR: ANGELO SEMINARA USING DAVINES PRODUCTS; MAKEUP: DANIEL KOLARIC; FASHION STYLING: NICCOLO TORELLI; ISTOCK (DUNE 45) PHOTOGRAPHY

February 2018 americansalon.com 19 BORN IN THE ■

IT LIST

vanishing act TOP BRIT STYLIST Ricky Walters has taken the traditional notion of a hair salon and turned it on its head with the debut of Salon64 in London’s Soho district. In addition to a coffee bar and serene shampoo area, Walters’ reimagined salon concept brings beauty into the 21st century with a sleek marble unit boasting a fire pit as well as work stations that function like jewelry boxes. All eight lift up to reveal mirrors, charge-points and compartments for creature comforts such as drinks, jewelry, magazines or iPads. “When laid flat, they create the perfect area for sitting and socializing,” says the creative director and salon owner.—KD PHOTOGRAPHY: FRANCESCO RUSSO FRANCESCO PHOTOGRAPHY:

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Ready for a change? Join our team at JCPenney Salon, JOIN US AS WE BECOME where you’ll transform your career and build an exciting future. Visit us online at jobs.jcp.com SPANISH CLASS The North American exclusive premiere of Balenciaga, Master of Couture heads to the McCord Museum in Montreal, Canada, this spring. The major fashion exhibition—organized by London’s Victoria and Albert Museum—examines the work and legacy of influential Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga, showcasing more than 100 pieces crafted by the master, his protégées and his contemporaries, including Oscar de la Renta, who interned with Balenciaga.—KD

WESTWOOD WORLD File this under: must-see. Fashion legend and A look from punk icon Vivienne Westwood is getting Oscar de la her own feature-length documentary, an Renta’s Spring 2015 ready-to- homage to her creativity, activism and cultural wear collection influence. Prepare for interviews with her collaborators, friends and family, including her son Joseph Corré, archival shots, and a LIP SERVICE spotlight on her relationship with Malcolm What better way to add McLaren. Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist stunning design to your salon premiers at the Sundance Film Festival and will setting than with this Bocca be released by Dogwoof this spring.—KH

tray from Italian decorative arts company Fornasetti? Adorned with the lips of opera singer Lina Cavelieri—Italian painter Piero Fornasetti’s favorite subject—the vessel is ideal for storing prized hair possessions or serving coffee or tea. us.amara.com—KD PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MCCORD MUSEUM (SPANISH CLASS); GETTY (WESTWOOD WORLD)

DREAM TEAM Two New York Fashion Week mainstays are bringing trends to life with an all-in-one concept. The inaugural M.A.C. & Bumble and bumble Makeup and Hair Studio was recently unveiled in Dallas NorthPark Center in Texas. The big idea? To offer customizable menus for total beauty looks using M.A.C. Cosmetics’ arsenal of cosmetics and Bumble’s styling powers, which can be captured at a personalized selfie wall. Life just got a lot more beautiful.—KH

February 2018 americansalon.com 23

PHOTOGRAPHY: IMAXTREE (UV INDEX) and couture gowns. rizzoli.com—KD moments, capturingimmaculate grooming curtain onsomeofTinseltown’s most famous The updated andredesigned volume liftsthe photographs ofstyle-makers andA-listers. with more than250 2018) isloaded (Rizzoli, February Fame andFashion Carpet: Hollywood popular book,Red of Frank Trapper’s This all-new edition Star Trek

with New York City-based fragrance studio Joya Jewelry designerandartist Pamela Love hasteamed up STARS LUCKY and cedar. joyastudio.com—KD patchouli, petigrain surfleurs, incense notes ofgrapefruit, orange, tangerine, scents like Rise, acitrusy fragrance with inscribed withcelestial relief, andfeature candles are housedincast porcelain that transport usto faraway places. The a range ofcandleswithheadyscents to create

clients,” says Abergel. leletny.com—KD the sameway Iapproach working withmy women’s self-expression withthesepieces, silver androse gold.“Iwanted to celebrate crafted from 18kgold,antique sterling headbands, barrettes, combs andhairpins an opulent collection ofmixed-metal collaborated to create Adir XLelet NY, Sara BielerSasson ofLelet NYrecently Celebrity stylist Adir Abergel anddesigner MAKERS STATEMENT chiffon gown.—KH this one-shouldered themed runway, like down herCMYK- electric purplelooks sent not one, buttwo Caroline Herrera, who collections, including spring/summer 2018 the color intheir Designers embraced hue authority reports. where we are now,” the the discoveries beyond what liesahead,and cosmos, theintrigue of the mysteries ofthe Ultra Violet suggests and contemplative, Violet. “Complex of 2018 isUltra The Pantone Color The results are in: UV INDEX

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ■ The main styling area of the salon with light flooding in from the courtyard; the intimate outdoor setup THINK TANK THINK TANK

EXTENDED FAMILY

Marie Robinson’s latest outpost is Miami’s hottest beauty destination du jour.

FebruaryMonth 2018 americansalon.com 27 ■

MARIE ROBINSON IS NO “We wanted to create a warm and STRANGER to the luxury salon intimate space with inviting colors and business. With a thriving New York City salon, accolades as the a more personalized, detail-oriented best colorist in Manhattan and an service environment.” A-list celebrity clientele that would

THINK TANK —MARIE ROBINSON make People magazine jealous, the haircolor guru opened her second eponymous location in Miami’s Little River neighborhood. “Our salon in New York is much larger and more rectangular, allowing more space and serving as an oasis for our clients. Space is important for New Yorkers as many deal with small living arrangements and crowded streets,” says Robinson. “But in Miami, you can see so much more sky and most of the town is becoming quite modern. So, we wanted to create a warm and intimate space with inviting colors and a more personalized, detail-oriented service environment.” Floor-to-ceiling windows and skylights flood the salon with Florida sunshine while soft blues and yellows set the ambience and a shaded bamboo courtyard with plush outdoor lounging sofas and dining chairs make it enjoyable to indulge in a beverage. With 20 chairs and a staff specializing in corrective color, cutting and styling, Robinson rotates her staff between the two locations CLOCKWISE FROM to keep the salon’s signature close- TOP: Naturally lit color knit culture together. “It’s about stations; the relaxing shampoo area; a stylish nurturing our people and making bowl for towels them feel safe,” says co-owner Abell Oujaddou. “There is no advantage to having your staff not be happy, or having them not grow or unable to afford things or live as they’d like.” Sign us up.—Maureen Sheen

28 americansalon.com February 2018

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COMING UP ROSES It’s the season of love, so why not show clients a little extra TLC? Take a cue from Spa Sophia in Venice, CA, which offers the Dozen Red Roses facial, a hydrating and exfoliating treatment that’s perfect for winter. “Rose can be very soothing on the skin, and it’s also a great way to

THINK TANK relax,” says esthetician Tarsh Bimson. “It’s a very calming experience, rather than severe, like extractions or a peel.” spasophia.com—KH

Start with a rose-based 1 face mist. PRO TIP: “We One of the XpresSpa ask guests to take a few deep facials offered breaths and enjoy the vibes that it gives off,” Bimson says. On the Fly Next, double cleanse XpresSpa and Dermalogica have teamed up 2 with an exfoliation to give new meaning to beauty on-the-go. enzyme, followed by a few Their new partnership brings specially designed minor extractions. Dermalogica products and services to XpresSpa Apply a rose-scented locations nationwide, starting with seven US 3 hydrating mask. airports, including New York’s JFK and Orlando PRO TIP: “Usually we mix together a few different products,” says International Airport. Services like the Xpres Bimson, “and we’ll layer a vitamin C serum underneath that so that 15-minute Facial with FaceMapping and Facefit, guests are getting results in addition to being pampered.” Xpres 20-minute Facial with Refresh & Relax Massage the hands, neck, shoulders, scalp and feet with a rose- Focus and Xpres 30-minute Facial with Hydration 4 based moisturizer. Boost will be offered. “Dermalogica and XpresSpa have designed the proprietary services with our mission of providing premium services to the busy, traveling customer in mind,” says Ed Jankowski, CEO of XpresSpa. xpresspa.com—MS

MATCH MAKERS Swivel Beauty is changing the game for women with textured hair and stylists

alike. The app, launched by two friends, Jenny Lambert and former beauty editor Jihan Thompson Jihan Thompson and lawyer Jenny Lambert, lets users specify what they’re looking for in a stylist, their hair ➤ Here, a few tips for interested stylists: type and zip code, and nails down perfect matches. “We EDUCATE CLIENTS “Stylists who do really well on think of it as Yelp meets Open Table,” says Thompson. “A our platform go the extra step and tell clients what customer can put in what she’s looking for and her hair they can do in between appointments to keep hair type, and it will show only stylists that its healthiest,” Thompson says. “Being a part of the can do that service on hair like hers.” journey is important.”

Reviews from previous clients help users SHOW YOUR WORK “Stylists need a proven track narrow down the list before booking record of doing great work on textured hair,” Thompson the appointment, which is also possible says. “That’s a combo of reviews from clients and seeing through the app. Swivel Beauty is open to pictures of finished work and before and after shots.” all hairdressers, but they have to be vetted ASK FOR FEEDBACK “We’ll often send customers to by the co-founders and customers before test out stylists, especially in new cities where we’re officially joining the database. Currently, looking to launch,” says Lambert. “We want it to feel the app is offered in New York City and like we’re bringing that word of mouth experience Washington, D.C., with new cities signing online. We really value recommendations from on this year.—KH customers.” swivelbeauty.com

30 americansalon.com February 2018 WIN a SALON MAKEOVER

Calling all salon owners looking to add a touch of joie to their salons: The American Salon Minerva Makeover Contest will award a salon with $10,000 in Minerva furnishings, in partnership with Quest Resources. Winners will pay a visit to Minerva’s showroom to select items of their choice within the value range. “As a salon business author, I have written about and seen firsthand how small updates and renovations can dramatically increase a salon’s foot traffic and create new buzz to draw potential clients,” says Jeff Grissler, Minerva creative director. “A salon that is up-to-date with its furnishings is also seen as being up-to-date regarding the styles and looks it can create.” To enter, send us shots of your salon and let us know what the makeover will mean for your business. For more details and to enter, visit AmericanSalon.com/MinervaMakeover. Entries are accepted from February 1, 2018 to April 30, 2018.

minervabeauty.com

NO PURCHASE OR PAYMENT NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. A PURCHASE WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. VOID WHERE PROHIBITED. Complete official rules available at www.americansalon.com/minervamakeover. The Contest is not open to the general public. Entrant must be a salon owner and a legal resident of the United States who is (18) years of age or older. This Contest is no way sponsored, endorsed or administered by or associated with, Facebook, Inc. Essay Contest entry period begins 2/1/18 at 12:00:01 a.m. EST and ends 4/30/18 at 11:59:59 p.m. EDT. LIMIT: One entry per person. Sponsored by: Minerva Beauty, Inc., 390 Jim Daws Rd, Monroe, GA 30655

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ONE FOR THE BOOKS It was during one of his regular haircuts at the barbershop across the street from his Harlem school Rev Up Your Revenue when genius struck first grade teacher Alvin Irby. “One THINK TANK If anyone knows how to boost of my students walked in and he just sat there doing salon business, it’s John Harms, nothing while waiting for his cut,” Irby says. Irby was Millennium Systems International inspired to launch Reading Holiday Project and its first founder & CEO. We chatted with initiative, Barbershop Harms and asked him, “What are Books, which helps your top five tips for improving create children’s salon revenue?” Here’s what he reading spaces in says every salon should be doing to barbershops. The increase their bottom line.—ADC John Harms program provides participating Give front desk employees pre-written scripts. This 1gives them confidence in their delivery and a tool to barbershops with contribute to business growth. A front desk go-getter with a curated list of savvy lingo can have a huge impact on your revenue. books, replacement Increase retail sales with education. Want to sell more books and a colorful 2 hair products? Educate your clients in the chair. Train bookshelf with your team to incorporate a dialogue while performing a hopes of reaching service. Then have your service providers write product kids who may not recommendations on the work ticket. That way the front have any or many desk professional can grab the items without any verbal reading opportunities communication. These changes can increase retail sales outside of school. upwards of 25 percent. “Part of the premise Create a culture is to help black boys Irby reads aloud to kids 3 around pre- identify as readers by booking. A simple connecting reading way to increase to a male-centric space, and to involve men with boys’ revenue is to focus on early reading experiences,” he says. Many young boys bringing in retained are visiting barbershops anywhere from once a week to clients more often. twice a month, he adds, offering a repeat opportunity to Typically, a salon that give them access to books and have men they look up to doesn’t focus on pre- Millennium’s Meevo 2 assists encourage them to read. front desk operations booking their clients, Currently, Irby has reached 110 barbershops in rebooks less than the US with plans to enter 200 in 16 cities this year. 50 percent at checkout. Your goal should be 50 percent or “We’re looking for barbershops who see at least 40 higher. Increasing client visits just two more times a year can children per month, ages 4 to 8, and that have the significantly impact revenue. space for a 2-by-2 bookshelf,” Irby says. Barbershops Start a client loyalty program. Reward your clients for 4 actions that grow your business, such as referring new pay a tax-deductible clients, pre-booking and trying new services. If clients can fee of $475 and can accrue enough points for a free service, they’re much more encourage children likely to come back. to read while they’re Personalize your marketing. Consumers become waiting for their 5 more engaged when they see their name or some type appointment—a of “self-perception.” Take time to divide your clients into small price to make different personas based on what they need from your salon. a big difference. Once your clients are segmented, craft specific messages barbershopbooks.org Alvin Irby

and marketing campaigns to increase revenue. Millennium’s —KH THE BOOKS) FOR (ONE REVENUE): IRBY OF MILLENNIUM (REV UP YOUR COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY: Meevo 2, assisting front desk operations

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Lessons from New York Guest Care in the Big Apple HOW HARD COULD IT BE? When David Adams, Frank Rizzieri and I first stumbled upon our TriBeCa salon location, our first thought was, “If we want to open a salon in New York City, this is the place—we will never again find this kind of deal.” VIRGINIA MEYER, We were right. We were fortunate enough to acquire an existing salon CO-FOUNDER OF downtown and, as they say, the stars aligned and everything fell into place. REDCHOCOLATE During those initial months, everyone kept saying things like, AND NEW YORK “Wow, New York, that’s expensive,” or “New York, you guys are brave.” I wondered, why are they saying that? We know the business inside CITY’S FOURTEENJAY out, have top technical talent, have trained for years, the location is a SALON, OPENED diamond in the rough—how hard could it be? UP SHOP IN ONE It’s been 18 months since we opened, and we've learned that almost OF THE TOUGHEST nothing from the “building a salon business” playbook works in New York City. We quickly realized that we had to challenge conventional thinking CITIES IN THE and start from scratch—dump the blocks from the box, rebuild the box WORLD. HERE, SHE with some brand-new blocks, or reconstruct the old blocks in a new way. SHARES LESSONS Fortunately, the salon is thriving, and we believe that’s because IN PERSISTENCE, we got really serious really fast about some very fundamental things, which we are excited to share. Our thinking is that if it works in New SUCCESS AND HOW York, it can work anywhere. TO STAND OUT. First, we have to make a big disclaimer. We are a work in progress, just like you. We are doing some things really well, and others, not too well, just like you. The truth is, no matter where your salon is located, we are all working on the same thing: creating amazing experiences for our guests so we can achieve growth and prosperity. Hopefully, our key learnings from a market like New York can help to inform, excite and inspire you to bring new thinking and systems to your salon in 2018. That's our intention, and it is in that spirit that we encourage you to read on.

VISION, MISSION AND CULTURE FOURTEENJAY BEDROCK Mother Nature is a great teacher when it GUEST SERVICE comes to planning growth. She teaches us WHEEL that it happens from the bottom up, inside out. Trees, plants, flowers and humans don’t begin from a mature state—rather, they start as a seed or embryo that needs development and nurturing. We think our business is no different. To grow well, we need a rock-solid foundation and seeds for growth. For us, that starts with vision, mission and values. That trifecta to make. Think about what matters most to hard at. Executing the steps of that wheel matters now more than ever. We had to you and capture that in some way. You can is the business. It’s our true north, it’s our create a culture and service experience that record it, make a mind map, do an outline. scorecard, it’s everything. We are aiming for was sharply aligned with the vision, mission Keep it simple. Capture it. You and your consistency and excellence, not perfection. and core values of our company. We take team can refine as you go. Just get it down. it seriously and mean it literally. We work ❸ BE NICE. We have found that being the mission and values into every huddle, DEFINE THE EXPERIENCE nice, especially in a city like New York, and training and team interaction. We also Our salon is located in the third most genuinely caring about the guest and the spend time assessing and understanding affluent zip code in the country. There are quality of their experience gives us a true each team member’s strengths and values, 20 salons in our salon’s 10-block radius and competitive advantage. Nice is part of our using the Strengths Finders Assessment and each essentially offers the same services. So, culture, and we have worked to define Values in Action Survey, so that we can learn what makes our salon experience different? what that means in big and small ways. how to optimize our team performance by Why do people come see us, and why do leveraging the strengths of each person. they want to come back? ❹ ALWAYS AND NEVER. We want everyone to deliver exceptional service. QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER: The FourteenJay Service Experience We're always working toward the “yes,” no ➤ How alive are your vision, mission and is founded on four non-negotiables: matter what the guest’s question, desire values in your culture? ❶ BEAUTIFUL COLOR BEGINS WITH or issue might be. We know that means ➤ Does the team know the mission and HEALTHY HAIR. Our mantra, emblazoned we have to collectively define what must do they know how to handle issues and on our wall, is the first thing guests see. always happen and what must never occur. opportunities with the mission in mind? While we’re known for color, we put hair and ➤ Where are the greatest opportunites scalp health at the center of every service. QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER: to link back to your vision and mission? We assure guests will leave with hair in ➤ What are your service non- Think about huddles, one-on-ones, better condition than when they arrived. It’s negotiables? Name three but not more modeling guest care standards, etc. a promise we live, and it makes us different. than five. ➤ What is your customer service If you don’t already have a vision, mission ❷ 100 PERCENT EXECUTION OF THE “always/never” model? and values statement, don’t stress. Start to GUEST SERVICE WHEEL. Every guest, ➤ When your non-negotiables are in create. Write down the reason you opened every visit, no exceptions. That's a tall place, what measurable impact will they your salon and what difference you want order and something we work incredibly make on your business?

Executing the steps of that wheel is the business. It’s our true north, it’s our scorecard, it’s everything. STANDARDS AND FOCUS MATTER As much as we live in an in-the-moment age, having standards in place for everything—from how a guest is greeted to how they are shampooed to how they receive a consultation—is essential. Without TOOLS & TIPS those standards, we wouldn’t know what to do or how well we are The “Doing” of Being Nice doing it. When it comes to consistent excellence, we don’t think that you can wing it. Practice and well-defined standards count. ❑ “Please,” “Thank you” and “May I.” Each step of our FourteenJay Service Wheel has a corresponding ❑ The answer is “Yes.” set of behaviors and standards that serve as the foundation for our ❑ “What we can do is…” training and as a performance assessment. While the service wheel concept isn’t new, what is novel is the implementation of each step ❑ Face-to-face and heart-to-heart greeting (no front desk), of the wheel every day with every guest. virtual check-in and chair-side checkout, if desired. We consider the salon floor the stage, the team the actors and ❑ Customized new guest welcome gift with a handwritten players, and the guests the audience. We know guests expect the note, sample products to take home, a referral card same performance every time, and we must be prepared to deliver and a menu. it—easy in concept, but more difficult in practice. Because it makes a ❑ Custom consultation with three options including time, big difference, it deserves and requires our focus. That means having well-defined systems in place and making sure everyone is clear on price and upkeep, written and given to the guest and their roles and cues and that understudies are in place so that every documented in their record. Always confirm with a visual. performance is set up to be seamless. ❑ Scalp health assessment using the scalp. ❑ Drinks menu (coffee, cappuccino, espresso, assorted QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER: teas, flavored water of the day, prosecco). ➤ Have you mapped your guests’ ❑ Tray, napkin, biscuit, cup and saucer. experience from the moment they walk in to the moment they leave? ❑ Head, neck and shoulder massage, hand and arm ➤ What is the one most important thing massage, and hot towel treatment. you think must happen at each step of ❑ USB outlets at each station and power cords provided. your wheel? ❑ Lap desks. ➤ Which areas of your Service ❑ Send a follow-up thank-you and “How is your hair doing?” Wheel represent your greatest growth email within three days of the visit. opportunity? Always/Never Telephone Etiquette COACHING AND IMPLEMENTATION It’s not sexy, it doesn’t get blogged about much and it’s certainly ALWAYS not on the influencer top 10. Our not-so-radical very radical thought ❑ Happy voice and tone with smile. is that exceptional guest care has to be lived. It has to be modeled ❑ “Please," “Thank You” and “May I?” by the leaders of the company and showcased in their behavior. It’s ❑ Guest’s name. not a “do as I say, not as I do” kind of thing. As leaders, we have to ❑ passionately and authentically model exceptional guest care. The Say “Yes.” hard truth is that if “they” are not doing something, it is because ❑ Close the loop. “we,” the leaders, are doing or not doing something. ❑ When in doubt, ask or refer “up.”

QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER: NEVER ➤ If you work behind the chair, how consistently are you ❑ Rush, rapid, short or rude. implementing the Service Wheel? What are your areas of ❑ Give an outright “No.” strength and opportunity? ❑ Hon, honey, dear, darling, etc. ➤ Where can you find opportunities to model exceptional ❑ Quote a haircolor, extension or texture price over the phone. guest care to your team? ❑ Make the guest wrong. ➤ How does your interaction with your internal team members ❑ reflect the standards of care you wish to extend to your guests? Hide or bury.

An advocate of beauty industry education with 20-plus years of experience, Virginia Meyer co-founded RedChocolate, which connects the art and business of color, with celebrated colorist David Adams, the former technical artistic director at Aveda. The duo are also business partners of FourteenJay Salon, New York.

Kristi Valenzuela

Shear Art Salon & Spa recently relocated to a new location in Tampa, FL, to accommodate its booming client base.

THE FRONT DESK Taking IS THE LIFEBLOOD OF THE SALON, Lead PROVIDING Long before I became an educator and earned the success of its service providers. ESSENTIAL GUEST moniker “Front Desk Doctor,” I was a commission- As it turns out, it was also the impetus behind INTERACTION service provider in one of the fastest-growing my desire to create salon programs designed to AND INCREASING salons in Michigan. This place ticked all the boxes— overcome front desk frustration. When it comes to REVENUE it had multiple, upscale locations; it was one of creating a blueprint for being the best at the front the best salons to work as a service provider; and desk, salon owners and managers must overcome POTENTIAL. HERE, it had a stellar reputation in the community, not three common challenges: SUMMIT SALON to mention a burgeoning clientele base. From all BUSINESS CENTER appearances, it seemed the business was moving 1. HIGH TURNOVER CO-OWNER KRISTI full speed ahead. 2. INCONSISTENCY WITH CUSTOMER CARE Behind the scenes, it was a whole different AND SCRIPTS VALENZUELA story. Speed bumps in the form of little or no team 3. LACK OF MOTIVATION SHARES HER TIPS communication and customer care systems were FOR ACHIEVING slowing down the business. High turnover, which The good news is that these challenges can be GREATER SUCCESS I came to learn after helping the salon manager prevented—not by teaching the front desk team send out W-2s to a slew of former front desk as one might expect, but by bringing awareness IN THIS VITAL AREA. employees one January day, was another huge and systems to the top. Oftentimes, the challenges issue. I remember looking at the stack of envelopes encountered by the front desk result from having being sent out and thinking that it looked pretty weak systems and lack of leadership in place. It’s staggering. Without a doubt, it was definitely an not because salon owners and managers are doing aha moment for me—one that made me aware anything wrong, it’s simply because they have of the pivotal role that qualified front desk team never been given a strong leadership action plan members play in shaping a salon’s image and the for this important area of the salon. comin’ at ya like a freight train… we’vee gotgot your ticket!

1(844) GIBSMEN www.gibsgrooming.com essential for this growth. For example, you might say: “We have a great opportunity in our spa nail department today. Melissa has time to pamper you with our signature pedicure right after your hair service. Would you have time to enjoy that service today?” BROWSE Instead of saying, “Have a seat,” say, “Go ahead and take a look around. I'll let your stylist know you are here.”

GOALS AND REWARDS Lack of motivation, focus, follow-through and self-accountability from front desk team members can easily be remedied by supplying them a monthly goal and reward program based on performance FRONT DESK LEADERSHIP SUCCESS WHEEL in five main areas. Individual goals should include upselling services (40 per month), To maximize the true power of the front and revenue potential. Many implement gift cards sold or upsold (20 per month) desk, strengthen these six areas to achieve shadow training to educate a new hire on and new guest referrals (five per month). success and motivate the front desk team. salon systems. However, taking notes and There are also two front desk team goals— following a lead person for a few weeks rebooking (5 percent greater than the HIRE SMARTER, FIRE FASTER often results in inconsistent experiences current rebooking trend), and retail (2 All too often, salon owners lack the time, and an inconsistency in the new hire’s percent greater retail to service percentage organization and questioning skills to skills. Instead, start off with a training chart than the current trend). Monthly bonuses find qualified staff. They employ the first containing tasks, exercises and assessments are paid per target achieved by each front person they talk to, which often results in that each new hire and trainer follows desk professional. The system provides a high turnover. To ensure hiring success, for the first 30 days of employment. This potential bonus up to $100 per front desk ask the candidate to complete an exercise ensures more employee follow-through and team member each month. Hourly raises are called “sell me this item.” It could be a pen consistency with systems and scripts. achieved when the front desk professional or even a coffee cup. The goal is to see achieves five targets per month, for five whether the interviewee can complete GUEST CARE SYSTEMS months during a 12-month period. the exercise in a confident, descriptive, Since the front desk is equal parts customer friendly, conversational way. Rather than service and sales, all guest-care systems TRACKING measuring sales skills, simply observe how should be spelled out in a salon training Tracking goes hand-in-hand with goal fast and willing the candidate completes manual that includes chapters on phone and reward systems. Each of the five the unexpected task during the interview. scripting and how to greet the guest at indicators mentioned here are tracked by If he or she is incapable of executing the check-in, conduct the salon tour, offer the individual and team on a daily, weekly request in the interview, that person will additional services and perform guest and monthly basis. This maintains focus and likely not be strong, confident nor smooth checkouts. Here, an example: allows for sales-goal forecasting, strategic when recommending products and services scripting and enhanced team synergy. to salon guests. On the flip side, salon WELCOME Instead of saying, “Hi, who are owners need to fire faster, especially when you here to see?” say, “Welcome back—who COACHING it’s apparent that a new employee isn’t has the pleasure to see you today?” Once goals, rewards and tracking have working out within the first few days or RETAIL Opening the sale is a great way been implemented, it becomes easier to weeks. Failing to act swiftly is a leadership to enhance customer care and increase conduct a 15-minute private coaching inefficiency that can cause stress with sales. For instance, you might say, “We session with the front desk staff member guests and the team, as well as a loss of have a great special—buy any two full-size to discuss strengths and areas of needed revenue at the front desk. products, receive a travel size free. Ask your improvement. stylist which ones would be right for you.” A renowned motivational speaker and success TRAINING ADDITIONAL SERVICES The front coach, Kristi Valenzuela focuses on salon team It’s no secret that salons suffer from lack of desk’s mission is to help grow the service building, profitability through the front desk providers’ and the salon’s business. Offering and empowering salon owners to take control front desk training, which, in turn, causes of their business. She is also the co-owner of a breakdown in team synergy, guest care service availabilities in other departments is Summit Salon Business Center, Plymouth, MN.

To ensure hiring success, ask the candidate to complete an exercise called “sell me this item.” VAN MICHAEL The Van Michael Kit—launched by Van Michael Salon CEO Susan Dykstra and cofounder Van Council—guides salon owners through 459 pages of best business practices, covering FROM HOW-TO topics such as staff recruitment VIDEOS TO and retention, customer service, compensation and partnerships. The JOURNALS TO binder also comes with contracts, forms and agreements ($2,950). EDUCATION vanmichaelkit.com WAHL WEBSITES, THESE Wahl Professional’s rebranded website offers new TOOLS WILL features and content including a weekly blog, cleverly named “Wahl Street,” and a product selector to help MOTIVATE SALON artists choose the best tools for their needs. The site also includes Wahl Education & Artistic Team PROFESSIONALS (W.E.A.T.) bios and photos, videos and a calendar of TO GROW THEIR events, classes and shows. wahlpro.com BUSINESS AND SHARPEN THEIR SKILLS.—CORIE HENGST Tool Time Check Out These 10 Tools for GREAT LENGTHS USA, A Inspiration and Growth DIVISION OF HAIRUWEAR INC. The GL USA Mobile App, expected to launch this month, gives stylists access to a comprehensive learning guide of correct GIBS BS with Brandon, a fun video miniseries application procedures, how-tos including from Gibs featuring lead brand ambassador color placement and bond customization, Brandon Cover, covers product knowledge client forms and a real-time FAQ. and styling how-tos. Episodes include Gibs hairuwear.com Man Wash BHB and the volumized matte look, among others. The series, which began last year, will continue this year and is also MILADYPRO available on YouTube. gibsgrooming.com Not Licensed to Fail: A Growth Journal for Beauty Professionals helps beauty professionals manage their time, as well as set and achieve goals in 28 days. The journal, available for $15, keeps salon professionals motivated along the way with goal and mentoring prompts, self- care activities, reflection and quotes. miladypro.com/succeed MILLENNIUM SYSTEMS INTERNATIONAL Millennium Academy is an online learning platform that allows users to become versed in the new Meevo 2 software via Meevo training videos and resources. Through Millennium Academy, salon and spa professionals can also become Meevo 2 certified.millenniumsi.com

MOROCCANOIL Moroccanoil recently launched the first phase of its professional website, which includes a lineup of classes, teacher bios and a seamless class booking process that allows stylists to view class availability via their accounts. The next phase of the site will feature an education platform with inspirational photos and videos for stylists. moroccanoilprofessionals.com

KERACOLOR Keracolor offers several instructional videos on its website that show how to use Keracolor products including Clenditioner, Purify Plus and Purify Plus Lite. The videos feature Janine Jarman, owner of Hairroin Salons in New York City and Los Angeles. The Keracolor website HELEN OF TROY also features a how-to The Hot Tools University video library includes styling techniques video on Color + from guest artists and educators using a variety of Hot Tools Clenditioner with products. Stylists can learn everything from how to achieve the before and after shots. perfect blowout using the Hot Tools Black Gold Ionic Hair Dryer, keracolorhair.com to getting effortless curls with the Deep Waver. Most videos are also available on the Hot Tools YouTube channel. hottools.com

SUMMIT SALON BUSINESS CENTER Summit Salon’s Front Desk Tracking System Binder and Video Tutorials ($149) helps front desk staff plan and record individual sales efforts in one place. The binder tracks retail and gift card sales on a daily, weekly and monthly basis, and provides a yearly summary of achievements and rewards. Meanwhile, the Front Desk Script Guide and Audio Training CD, $49, walks the front desk through sales scripts and closing retail sales. summitsalon.com

Classes at the Moroccanoil Academy cover everything from cutting and styling, to building a brand.

THE MOROCCANOIL ACADEMY 135 E. 57th St., New York City to The Moroccanoil Academy, which opened in 2016 Room at the company’s New York City marketing offices, offers hands-on learning for stylists at any career Grow stage. The academy has on-site, customized learning from global educators and well-known BRANDS ARE FEEDING THE NEED FOR LEARNING ACADEMIES stylists who teach foundational skills and techniques WHERE SALON PROFESSIONALS CAN COME TOGETHER TO while incorporating Moroccanoil education. IMPROVE THEIR CRAFT, AND EVEN THEIR DIGITAL SKILLS. Classes range from cutting and styling, to HERE’S WHAT SOME OF THE STUDIOS OFFER—AND A PEEK AT building a brand and creating an editorial vision. WHAT’S TO COME IN 2018. “You’ll find anything from taking on a more advanced and technical spin on a modern-day men’s haircut, to working with an editorial REDKEN STUDIO 404 AT THE REDKEN EXCHANGE photographer for those stylists looking to build 404 Fifth Ave., New York City their portfolios and everything in between,” says Smartphones can certainly capture amazing photos these days, but stylists Robert Ham, director of global education for who want to take their selfies and social media posts to the next level Moroccanoil. This year, Moroccanoil is adding can drop by Redken Studio 404, a social content studio that provides a new academy location in Manhattan’s SoHo professional camera equipment, lighting and backdrops. The studio, located neighborhood that’s slated to open by summer. within the Redken Exchange in New York, opened in March 2017 with a The new space is expected to accommodate 24 mission to help stylists create high-quality photos and videos they can upload stylists per class, compared with 12 at the 57th to Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat and other social networks. The studio has Street studio. an array of tools on hand including a Canon EOS 5D Mark IV DSLR Camera with Macro Lens, lighting equipment, a ring light, and for stylists who want to snap photos on their smartphones, there’s a lens Redken Studio 404 provides stylists adapter and camera rig system with wide-angle and with professional camera equipment, lighting and backdrops. fish-eye lenses. The studio has several backdrops to choose from including multiple colors, a New York cityscape and a branded area where artists can snap selfies. “Studio 404 allows stylists the opportunity to shoot high-quality imagery and social content during their time spent at the Redken Exchange. It also gives them the ability to share the latest trends and techniques learned in class with their followers almost instantaneously,” says Aditi Sharma, AVP, PR and social, Redken & Pureology. “It’s a full-circle approach to education and content creation for the growing and established stylist.” Redken Studio 404 is open Monday through Thursday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.—Corie Hengst START 2018 OFF RIGHT WITH CLASSES AND TRAINING SESSIONS THAT WILL TAKE YOUR CAREER TO Class THE NEXT LEVEL. Act HERE’S WHAT’S NEW IN EDUCATION OFFERINGS THIS YEAR. Certification for all three Great Lengths tape-in methods is included in the three-day, GIBS in-person class. Danny Amorim, Director of Education Gibs Grooming is bringing education to the forefront in 2018, says Danny Amorim, Gibs’ director of education. “We put together an elite team of 24 barbers, stylists and educators who will give you some of the best cutting and styling techniques, along with product knowledge and the power of putting the product in someone’s hand and letting it sell itself.” A new educational menu includes: Product Knowledge, Hands On, Danny Amorim, and Look & Learn with a class called The with the updated training for all three methods on February 1—is director of education Exchange about the relationship between available by calling 800/999-0809. barbers and clients. “With our new team, we are ready to hit the road and spread the word,” Amorim says. HELEN OF TROY Classes will be held at trade shows such as Bronner Bros. Atlanta Detra Smith, Artistic Director (February 10-12) and the CT Barber Expo in Hartford, CT (April As Helen of Troy celebrates 50 years of business, the company 21-22). Show information, updates and product knowledge are will focus on classes that celebrate “how far stylists have come,” available at gibsgrooming.com. and will “teach what it takes to be progressive in the future,” says Detra Smith, artistic director at Helen of Troy. Stylists can GREAT LENGTHS USA, A DIVISION OF attend in-person trainings on styling techniques in classrooms HAIRUWEAR INC. at national shows. “We emphasize the importance of the way Brett Butcher, National Program Director hair trends follow fashion,” says Smith, who teaches how to Great Lengths recently introduced two new tape-in extensions translate runway and editorial looks into commercial use. “If you and, as a result, is recreating its Great Lengths Tape-in Extension see it on the runways, you’ll see some form of it on the streets.” Online Certification program to include training for all three tape-in Other educators include Stephanie Hodges for braid techniques methods: GL Apps, new GL Tapes and GL Tapes Plus. The Tape-in and Alisha Jared for bridal. In addition, Helen of Troy teaches Extension Online Certification program is available to all licensed how to work with different types of hair extensions, Smith says, cosmetologists and doesn’t require the Great Lengths three-day giving stylists “a better understanding of how to use our tools in Premium Bonded Certification or its criteria—rather, just a valid ways that give them the best finished results.” It’s not just about cosmetology license. The Great Lengths Tape-in Extension Online learning the techniques, it’s also about learning how to promote Certification program is free for Great Lengths certified stylists, yourself as a stylist. So, Helen of Troy provides photography as well as for qualifying, non-GL certified stylists who purchase a tips for social media and marketing. To increase its social GL Apps, GL Tapes or GL Tapes Plus introduction package. More media presence, the company plans to feature its educators on

information about the online certification program—set to launch Facebook Live more frequently this year. (ORIBE) CHRIS DELORENZO LENGTHS); (GREAT MCKINDRA SHAWN PHOTOGRAPHY: KERACOLOR MOROCCANOIL Tarah Edberg, Brand Coordinator Robert Ham, Global Director of Education Keracolor will focus on education via digital this year with Moroccanoil added two classes to its 2018 lineup: Signature livestreaming and weekly instructional videos on social media. Cutting: Men’s Collection and Signature Cutting: Couture Collection. Tarah Edberg, brand coordinator at Keracolor, will host many of Signature Cutting: Men’s Collection, a two-day course, teaches the weekly videos, but guest stylists from the Pro Team will also stylists how to create modern haircuts that complement male clients’ make appearances, like Garrett Roach (@garrettkenroach), owner personalities, lifestyles and careers. “Technique and artistry are of Coven KC salon in Kansas City, MO, and Kat Collett (@katcolors), combined to deliver classic and progressive looks suitable for the also from Coven KC. In addition, the Keracolor Clique, a group of 34 suburbs and city,” according to the Moroccanoil class description. stylists who test Keracolor products, will post monthly social media Signature Cutting: Couture Collection, a two-day course, focuses content including before and after shots. This month, Keracolor will on haircuts inspired by art, fashion and modern street styles. begin its Lab Training, in-salon, hands-on classes around the country Moroccanoil’s hands-on classes suit stylists at every level of their that teach artists the different ways Keracolor can be used. For more careers and are available at The Moroccanoil Academy at 135 E. information, contact Edberg at 651/681-7769. 57th St. in New York City. For more information, call 212/616-1524 or visit moroccanoilprofessionals.com. Stay tuned for an additional MILLENNIUM SYSTEMS INTERNATIONAL Moroccanoil Academy in New York’s SoHo neighborhood, set to Rowena Jaico, Learning Manager open by summer. Millennium has a variety of educational options: webinars, remote trainings, in-house training, onsite training and workshops. ORIBE A new monthly live Talia Thomas, Executive Director of Education Millennium webinar, called Coffee S.I.'s VP of Oribe offers classes in its New York studio, but for those who Talk, launched this year Enterprise can’t make it in, the company is hosting five Oribe On the Road Sales Robert and features experts Maconi at The educational presentations from February to May. These small, including John Mosley, Millennium traveling classes will cover cutting and styling techniques from Experience Robert Cromeans and 2017 Oribe’s current Journey to Mastery curriculum, used in the Jason Everett (get New York studio. The classes will be smaller than the Oribe more information at Ateliers (Atelier dates to be announced soon), and max at 150 millenniumsi.com/ students. On the Road will be demo-only and will be available education/webinars). at a lower price than Atelier, says Talia Thomas, executive Other educational director of education events include for Oribe. “Everything Millennium’s annual we teach in the On conference (speaktme.com) for Millennium and Meevo clients, the Road experience held September 30-October 2 in Scottsdale, AZ. This year, is salon-friendly and speakers include Sam Villa, Antony Whitaker (author of Grow My inclusive of stylists of Salon Business), Jenny Strebe (founder of The Confessions of a all levels of experience,” Hairstylist) and Millennium founder John Harms. The conference Thomas says. “It’s also covers everything from cutting and coloring techniques to a chance to connect business development and staff satisfaction. Millennium also with in-network salon offers remote trainings with a senior learning specialist to cover owners and stylists.” On the new software, Meevo 2; in-house training with up to nine the Road’s first stop is Coby Alcantar, members of your team in the company’s learning lab; onsite Phoenix on February 19. Oribe director of training and training from Millennium’s education department; and onsite There, stylists will see two content Millennium Academy Workshops for business growth. In addition, cutting demonstrations there’s a new online learning platform, Millennium Academy, for with multiple styling options. On the Road will make its way Meevo 2 training and certification. For information on workshops, to Boston, Atlanta and several other cities. More information is visit millenniumsi.com/academy/workshops. available at oribe.com/ontheroad.

“We emphasize the importance of the way hair trends follow fashion.” —DETRA SMITH, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, HELEN OF TROY Millennial Trends and the newest Gray Hair Trends. The field also covers the Hottest Trends in Haircolor: Balayage, Ombre- Sombre, Advanced Color Correction, Formulation Hot Tips, and How to Bleach and Tone Successfully. To attend a class, contact the Redken Exchange at 800/545-8157 and browse the class schedule at redkensalon.com/redken-education/ redken-exchange/class-calendar. Field classes are offered at all distributor store locations. Redken’s field Salons can qualify classes cover the hottest trends in for complimentary haircolor. education with purchases and also use PPD Level Reward points for in-salon education. Ted Gibson at Premiere WAHL Orlando Tracey Nugent, US Education and Artist PREMIERE SHOW GROUP Coordinator Jill Acosta, Marketing and Operations Coordinator Wahl Professional is introducing several new classes this Premiere Show Group plans to bring more panel discussions year, including To Connect or Disconnect, Fading & More and roundtables to this year’s events. “This will allow our with Wahl, Design Artistry and Short, Sassy & Classy. The attendees to be more engaged with the education offered classes are offered either in two-hour demos or four-hour, at the show and put in their own personal experience to the hands-on formats. To Connect or Disconnect helps students mix,” says Jill Acosta, marketing and operations coordinator with the best techniques for blending longer hair on top with for Premiere Show Group. In addition, Premiere Show Group shorter sides, or how to nail a disconnected look. Fading & will broaden opportunities to learn about trendy topics such as More with Wahl helps stylists create the perfect fade and balayage, men’s grooming and hair loss. Premiere Orlando in taper, and offers tips to avoid and correct lines. Meanwhile, June covers everything from hair and nail art trends to weaves Design Artistry to business classes. “We understand how vital it is for an artist shows students behind the chair to be equipped with the tools and techniques how to personalize they need to provide their clients with the most fashion- haircuts with artistic forward looks and trends,” Acosta says. “This is why, collectively flair, including how with our exhibitors, we aim to bring the top artists from across to identify design the globe to our event to have them help deliver education placement, basic on what has made them so successful.” Other shows this year shapes and fading include Premiere Beauty Classic and Premiere Birmingham. with the design. The goal is to give stylists REDKEN the confidence to Sheri Doss, VP Global Education “never turn a client No matter what their career level, stylists can turn to the away who asks for a Redken Exchange in New York City and attend field training hair tattoo design,” Wahl Education and Artistic throughout the US to sharpen their skills. “A stylist should says Tracey Nugent, Team (W.E.A.T.) member attend class at the Redken Exchange if they are a starter US education and Julius Arriola in action salon, or a successful salon ready to expand, remodel or artist coordinator for grow,” says Sheri Doss, VP of global education at Redken. Wahl. Lastly, the Short, Sassy & Classy course is for mastering The classes can inspire ideas about starting a new salon short styles for women, like bobs, pixies or soft fades. design; remodeling an existing one; creating a positive “These techniques take less time, yet are so innovative that experience during a client’s visit; and developing career participants can charge more for the service,” Nugent adds.

paths for your staff. For the field, there’s Blonding Trends, —Corie Hengst PROFESSIONAL OF WAHL COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY: premiereshow group delivers the education you need to succeedTM

save the dates

& NEW! June 2-4, 2018 September 23-24, 2018 Orlando, Florida Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

October 7-8, 2018 October 21-22, 2018 Columbus, Ohio Birmingham, Alabama

premiereshows.com 800-335-7469 On Mark your calendars with this Schedule dynamic roster of classes and shows.

SHOWS EVENTS & CLASSES INTERNATIONAL GREAT LENGTHS USA, ORIBE BEAUTY SHOW— A DIVISION OF HAIRUWEAR INC. oribe.com/education NEW YORK & LAS VEGAS hairuwear.com Oribe Hair Care Studio ibsnewyork.com; ibslasvegas.com Nationwide New York City Year-round Jacob Javits Convention Year-round Attend classes throughout the year in Center The Great Lengths three-day Premium Bonded Certification teaches stylists how to Oribe’s New York City studio including New York City, March 4-6 effectively apply and remove Great Lengths Cutting: Unstructured Bob on February Las Vegas Convention Center premium bonding methods and tape-in 25, Cutting: Signature Cut on February Las Vegas, June 23-25 methods including GL Apps, GL Tapes and 26 and The Essentials: Foundations from IBS New York features over 100 GL Tapes Plus. Stylists will learn placement April 15-16. Oribe is also offering On classes that cover everything techniques for length, volume and the Road educational presentations in from haircolor to makeup dimensional color effects, as well as cutting. cities such as Phoenix on February 19, application to business growth. In-person certification is held throughout Boston on March 5, Atlanta on March 26, This year, IBS New York will the U.S., with upcoming dates including Washington, D.C., on April 23 and Detroit on May 21. Visit oribe.com/ontheroad or have two new stages: The February 25-27 in Dallas, March 11-13 in Los email [email protected] for more Mane Attraction Stage will Angeles and March 25-27 in Nashville, TN. information. showcase cutting, coloring, styling and barbering, while MILLENNIUM SYSTEMS INTERNATIONAL REDKEN the Finishing Touch Stage will redkensalon.com/redken-education/ speaktme.com feature makeup, eyelash and redken-exchange/class-calendar J.W. Marriott Scottsdale Camelback Inn nail enhancements. IBS Las Redken Exchange Resort & Spa, Scottsdale, AZ Vegas also offers 100-plus New York City September 30-October 2 Year-round classes and major main-stage Millennium’s annual conference will This month, Redken is offering sessions on headliners. feature educators including Sam Villa, overcoming stage fright for presentations, Antony Whitaker and Jenny Strebe, techniques for finishing styles and PREMIERE ORLANDO alongside Millennium founder John maximizing a salon’s men’s business, premiereorlandoshow.biz Harms. Stylists will learn creative cutting along with many other classes year-round. Orlando/Orange County and coloring techniques, while owners Finish and Know Why and Centerstage Convention Center – and managers will learn how to grow their will be held February 5 at the Redken West Complex businesses and keep their teams happy. Exchange in New York, followed by Orlando, FL The conference is for Millennium and Color and Shapes and The Boys Club on Meevo clients only. June 2-4 February 12. Premiere Orlando offers a MOROCCANOIL variety of classes, as well as WAHL moroccanoilprofessionals.com wahlpro.com/education/calendar a haircolor stage, a men’s Moroccanoil Academy Nationwide zone and barbershop, and a New York City Year-round business forum. Other shows Year-round Several new Wahl classes are on the from Premiere Show Group Moroccanoil’s two new classes this year, lineup this year, including this month’s this year include Premiere Signature Cutting: Men’s Collection and Fading & More With Wahl: The Blueprint Beauty Classic (October 7-8) Signature Cutting: Couture Collection, to Seamless Fading, a SalonCentric at the Columbus Convention will be held at the Moroccanoil Academy class on February 5 in Santa Rosa, CA Center in Columbus, OH and in New York City. Upcoming dates for and Lake Forest, CA; To Connect or Premiere Birmingham (October Signature Cutting Men’s Collection are: Disconnect: Endless Choices for Leaving 21-22) at the Birmingham- March 19-20, April 23-24, June 11-12, July the Hair on the Head, a SalonCentric class on February 12 in Niles, OH and Jefferson Convention Center in 9-10, August 20-21, September 17-18 and October 15-16. Signature Cutting Couture Short, Sassy & Classy: Creativity, Attitude, Birmingham, AL. Collection dates include: March 5-6, May and Individuality in Women’s Cutting, 14-15, June 4-5, August 13-14, November a SalonCentric class on February 19 in 12-13 and December 3-4. Alexandria, VA.—Corie Hengst

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MORE THAN 60 PERCENT OF THE POPULATION HAS wavy, curly or coily PAUL MITCHELL SPRING LOADED hair, and the textured-hair market is one of the fastest growing categories FRIZZ-FIGHTING CONDITIONER is in the beauty industry. That’s why it’s critical for salons to carry the most infused with moisturizing jojoba oil, helping to nourish hair, tame frizz and effective curl products. “There’s never a one-size-fits-all approach to curls easily detangle curls. paulmitchell.com and waves. Everyone has their own unique curl-DNA,” says LaDonna Dryer, Paul Mitchell national educator and business development coordinator. But, understanding that all curls are naturally “thirsty,” Dryer zeroed in on her top moisturizing ingredients. “Marula oil is full of antioxidants that MOROCCANOIL CURL DEFINING tame and soften curls. Shea butter and coconut oil prevent moisture loss. CREAM activates and defines curls Jojoba heals dry ends without a heavy texture. And, avocado oil is great for while hydrating the hair with a blast of nourishing argan oil. The cream features detangling.” Check out these hydrating shampoos, conditioners and styling an advanced, heat-activated technology products that’ll keep all your curly clients happy.—Andrea Dawn Clark that boosts curl memory, definition and bounce. moroccanoil.com

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AQUAGE CURL DEFINING CREME R+CO ANALOG CLEANSING moisturizes the hair, FOAM CONDITIONER has creating soft, silky, frizz- a super light formula that free curls. The flexible weightlessly softens, cleanses polymers and light and conditions curls. Loaded

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OUIDAD ADVANCED CLIMATE “Apply CONTROL HEAT & HUMIDITY REDKEN CURVACEOUS GEL uses anti-frizz nano products FULL SWIRL CREAM technology, combined with when the SERUM gives curly and wavy silk protein, to seal in essential hair added control and body. moisture, while blocking out hair is quite The sugar crystals infused in humidity. The result: frizz-free, the formula help reactivate perfectly defined curls no wet, before it curl shape, while a healthy matter the weather. ouidad.com has a chance dose of moringa oil restores moisture. redken.com to start drying and MATRIX BIOLAGE R.A.W. CURL separating. DEFINING STYLING BUTTER is packed with nourishing cacao and is 98 percent It’s that natural origin. After applying a small amount of product on damp hair, curls separation TRUSS CURLY become beautifully defined, without the CONDITIONER uses a dreaded crunchy texture. matrix.com of the curl blend of high-tech active that causes a ingredients and organic elements to form a frizzy look.” transparent film around the hair shaft. This film helps —LISA LOBOSCO, support and define curls, ECRU NEW YORK CREATIVE DIRECTOR without an oily residue. usa.trussprofessional.com

INOAR DIVINE CURLS SHAMPOO pampers curls and waves with a “low poo” ECRU NEW YORK CURL formula that gently cleans PERFECT DEFINING as it smooths each strand. A STYLING POTION rich blend of D-panthenol, creates well-defined macadamia and kernel curls with a medium- oil keeps curls soft. hold, cream-gel formula. inoarprofessional.com After air or diffuser drying, curl shape and smoothness last for days. ecrunewyork.com

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Upgrading your kit with the best blow-dryers, curling irons, flat-irons and clippers is key for getting the job done right. But sifting through the mountain of new products, technology and

BEAUTY VAULT BEAUTY innovation is easier said than done. Not to worry—we’ve done the homework for you. Here are all the styling tools you need to switch into your daily rotation right now. —Maureen Sheen

TRANSFORMERS UPDATE YOUR KIT WITH THE LATEST TOOLS FOR ALL YOUR STYLING NEEDS. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF SAM VILLA (BEAUTY SHOT)

Salontech Titanium SHC Digital Flat Iron With premium-grade titanium technology, ergonomically designed handling and an innovative digital temperature and power indicator, Salontech’s latest flat-iron delivers performance and results. Chemical treatments are simplified and thick, coarse hair is straightened in just one pass.

Andis Slimline Ion Trimmer Powered by a Designed from Olivia Garden Double Clips lithium-ion battery for up to two hours of a durable blend of carbon and fiberglass, nonstop trimming, this new model can also this lightweight clip features stainless steel fully recharge in just two and a half hours. It springs and an antibacterial surface to comes as part of a 12-piece kit, outfitted with easily part and hold multiple sections of six attachment combs, multi-voltage charger hair at once. It’s ideal for sectioning pin- and stand, blade oil guard and cleaning brush. curls or flipped ends, and saves time when cutting, coloring or curling.

60 americansalon.com February 2018 Body by Blowpro Titanium Flat Iron Heating up to 425 degrees Fahrenheit for one easy-pass, the new flat-iron features curved 1” titanium plates and a matte handle for a no-slip grip. Color-coded LED lights reduce cleaning time and auto shut-off Dyson Supersonic The original Dyson Supersonic made its debut kicks in after one hour. as the most buzzed-about hair dryer in the industry, with all of its bells and whistles. And now, a brand-new colorway, chic purple and black, is burning up social media feeds as the new must-have for stylists in 2018.

BaBylissPRO Avanti Titanium Straightening Iron BABAV124T Equipped with an EasyFlex hinge that requires less force to close and reduces stress on the wrist, this wet to dry iron features floating titanium plates plus an advanced ceramic heater for instant heat-up and recovery to deliver consistent performance.

CHI Lava Iron An innovative combination of volcanic lava and ceramic plates results in effortless glide-ability on even the most unruly and coarse textures. The digital and adjustable temperature quickly heats up to a max 450 degrees Fahrenheit and allows for lower temperature settings to reduce heat damage to strands. Elchim Healthy Ionic 3900 Yellow Daisy Blow Dryer Pushing out 2,000 watts of wind power and far-infrared heat to reduce drying time by 30 percent, Elchim’s ionic-ceramic system nourishes the hair while three temperature settings and two speed options work Hot Tools Black Gold Salon Marcel Iron to preserve hair health. Plus, a built-in Available in 1” and 1¼” sizes, this latest silencer reduces noise so carrying on a innovation from the Black Gold line conversation is actually possible. features the brand’s best-in-class 24K Gold styling surface, a micro-shine finish, a professional 9-foot swivel cord, and a Marcel TouchGuard for easier handling close to the neck and face.

Wahl Designer Clipper The best-selling Wahl Designer Clipper has been updated to feature a sleek yet modern design plus an improved grip and Sam Villa Artist Series 2-in-1 Marcel Curling Iron & feel for easy distinguishability. The classic black Wand 1" With a ¾”-longer barrel and the ability to color plus a textured black lid adds to the already transform from a Marcel iron into a wand with just a powerful electromagnetic motor and professional touch of a button, is there anything more necessary to steel blade for superior clipper cutting. a stylist’s toolkit for creating texture? Ideal for longer hairstyling, this two-in-one makes it easy to switch from one curl style to another.

February 2018 americansalon.com 61 ■

Banish the Brass There are many reasons why beautiful blonde shades turn brassy—too much sun, too much heat, hard water and harsh products. To find out how to transform this unflattering yellow-orange effect, we talked with two top colorists to get their best brass-busting tips. • “If your client has a brassy ombre, you need to fill in the blanks

BEAUTY VAULT BEAUTY with a beige shade, like Zotos Agebeautiful Topcoat in Beige,” says Mike Petrizzi, Agebeautiful artistic director. zotos.com • “For toning down all-over brass, I like to use the Aloxxi Tones Brass-free blonde thanks to Zotos Demi-Permanent line. Depending on the level of the hair, my go-to Agebeautiful tones are 9.21 or 10V and 10A equal parts,” says Freddy Mattera, Topcoat Aloxxi national educator. aloxxi.com—ADC

INDIE ROCK Individualism with bohemian flair is the flavor of salon owner and Aveda Global Style Director Allen Ruiz’s latest collection. Collectively given the moniker The Individualists, the six styles use Aveda color in a kaleidoscope of gemstone hues—like sapphire, amber and emerald—for looks that are far from precious. Ruiz breaks down one of his creations.—KH ➤ To see more looks from this collection, check out AmericanSalon.com.

STRIKING COPPER This dynamic red was the result of applying Aveda Universal 0N, 1N and Red Pure Pigment at the roots, and a pinwheel color-blocking technique using Intense Base, Orange Pure Pigment and OY Deep Pure Tone, plus Intense Base, Red Pure Pigment and Light Red/Red Deep Pure Tone on the mids and ends. YULIA GORBACHENKO; HAIR: ALLEN RUIZ; COLOR: LUIS GONZALEZ;

Nude 2.0 Not all nudes are created equal, and this spring’s latest polish offerings are definitely not a one-shade-fits-all deal.Morgan Taylor’s Flirting With The Phantom and Orly’s new line of Breathable nudes complement every skin tone. “We made sure these nudes were opaque enough with just one or two coats for that perfect creamy solid nude look,” says Shanee Pink, Orly creative director. And judging by the neutral nail looks on the spring

runways, the classic shade has been modernized THE BRASS); (BANISH PROFESSIONAL OF ZOTOS COURTESY with shimmering finishes and subtle nail art to make the hue really pop.—MS The new nude look at the Morgan Taylor-sponsored Rodarte Couture SS18 show

From Orly’s new Breathable nudes collection PHOTOGRAPHY: MAKEUP: ANASTASIA DURASOVA; FASHION STYLING: SANDY ARMENI (INDIE ROCK); ORLY (NUDE 2.0)

62 americansalon.com February 2018 Ultra Light Weight 2 speeds plus Instant cold shot button New Innovative K - ADVANCED® motor 4 temperatures Ionic & Ceramic Technology 3 meters of strong cable Long life 2,500 hours Recyclable materials Powerful 2,200 Watt Output Equipped with 2 nozzles 83 cubic meters/hour Air Flow Available in black, silver, light blue emerald, yellow, red and violet Less noise – incorporated silencer Optional diffuser available Ideal Size and Ergonomic Design Made in Italy Anti-Heating front body model 333

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1 Unite 7Seconds BlowOut Crème shortens drying time, creates high shine and leaves a serious seal, so that sleek looks last for days. Bonus: The cream allows brushes to glide through hair and provides UV and thermal protection. unitehair.com 2 Aloxxi Andiamo Express Permanent Colour significantly reduces color service time because it’s formulated with a Turbo Dye Technology that offers up to four levels of lift and total gray coverage in just 10 minutes. aloxxi.com 3 MOP Pomegranate Smoothing Shampoo is rich in essential fatty acids and punicic acid, found in pomegranates and celebrated for its ability to strengthen strands. mopproducts.com 4 Paul Mitchell Neon Sugar Dry Cleanse absorbs oil and odor, keeping second-day strands fresh and voluminous with a sugar-infused formula. paulmitchell.com 5 Redken Brews Extra Clean Shampoo is formulated with malt, brewer’s yeast and orange zest, which help to intensely cleanse the hair, eliminate dirt and oil, and remove unwanted product buildup. redken.com 6 Matrix SoColor Mixed Metals comes in four new shades, including two metallic violet mauves and two metallic rose golds. These gilded hues will help colorists achieve the luminous haircolor shades taking over social media.

PHOTOGRAPHY: ISTOCK (BEAUTY SHOT) (BEAUTY ISTOCK PHOTOGRAPHY: matrix.com 7 Aveda Nourish-mint Lipstick comes in 23 shades, and each one is designed to complement a unique haircolor. aveda.com

February 2018 americansalon.com 65 ANDREW Art + Science Salon Chicago, IL

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influencersthe JOHNNY WRIGHT, FIRST LADY MICHELLE OBAMA’S PERSONAL STYLIST FOR TWO TERMS, HAS RETURNED TO THE WEST COAST, CREATING MANE TALK SHOW TALK MAGIC FOR HIS CELEBRITY AND LOS ANGELES CLIENTELE.

SALON KAZUMI TAMRON HALL KERRY WASHINGTON

t’s said that opportunity comes knocking when you least expect it. Johnny Wright (@johnnywright220) certainly knows a thing or two about that. In 2007, Wright, a native Chicagoan, was enjoying I a day off from the local salon he worked at when his agent, Ken Barboza, phoned him with some major news. “Obama had announced his presidential candidacy two weeks earlier, and he was calling to tell me about an opportunity to style Michelle Obama’s hair at a photo shoot for Essence,” recalls Wright. “It was the chance of a lifetime.” The two had instant rapport. That same year, Wright headed to Southern California, working at the tony Frédéric Fekkai salon in Beverly Hills, CA while pursuing a hairstyling career in television and film. “Whenever the First Lady traveled to Los Angeles for TV appearances, I continued to style her hair,” says Wright. After crafting her look for the Democratic National Convention in 2008 and a Vogue cover shoot in 2009, Wright was asked by the First Lady to move to Washington, D.C. to serve as her personal stylist. “I was honored, excited and nervous about the unknown all at the same time,” says Wright of his new role, explaining that he had worked with celebrities before but had some trepidation about the political world. “It was definitely unfamiliar territory.” Throughout Wright’s eight years at the White House, he had the opportunity to travel the world, meet amazing people and create hair history, fashioning looks for the First Lady that ranged from lobs, bobs and bangs, to loose curls and effortless updos. “There are so many amazing memories,” says the style icon, who first became fascinated with beauty thanks to his grandmother, a working stylist and colorist until age 91. With Washington, D.C. behind him, the celebrity stylist has big plans for the future. “I want to develop a product line and an academy,” says Wright. “I’m very passionate about education. My philosophy has long

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF JOHNNY WRIGHT COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY: been, ‘the more you know, the more you grow.’”—Kelley Donahue

February 2018 americansalon.com 67 WE ARE

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EMILY HESER Young Americans EMILY HESER

n the past few years, when she wasn’t styling hair at SHOW TALK Cutler Salon in SoHo, NY, Emily Heser could be found I climbing Mount Kilimanjaro for charity, empowering women in India by teaching them her trade, or giving free cuts to protesters at Standing Rock. Under the tutelage of Rodney Cutler, she perfects her craft, and has her eyes set on a philanthropic project of her own.—Kristen Heinzinger AHA MOMENT In high school, I was into punk rock, DIY haircuts and bright colors from Manic Panic. I gave friends haircuts and almost stained the bathtub blue a million times. A friend who went to hair school convinced me to go too. TRAINING DAYS I went to a small school in Connecticut where we practiced styling mannequins in the backyard. Then I worked at my friend’s mom’s salon. She told me I couldn’t stay long, or I’d “never get anywhere.” I joined the salon across the street, where I met Sam Villa, who helped me land an interview at Cutler Salon. CLAIM TO FAME I’m known for helping clients create easy, wash-and-go looks. One of my most exciting moments was giving makeovers to young ladies for an MTV show. I’ve done New York Fashion Week for 12 years, and I recently assisted Anthony Turner on the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show—incredible experiences. SOCIAL BUTTERFLY You can follow me on Instagram at @emily___sue. WORDS TO LIVE BY “You can’t write a script in your mind and then force yourself to follow it. You have to let yourself be.” —Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie TOOL KIT Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray, Redken Satinwear 04, TIGI Bed Head Queen For a Day Thickening Spray and Amika flat-iron. MY MENTORS My boss, Rodney Cutler. Seeing him juggle a multifaceted career with a family is so inspiring. And my mother, who raised me to have compassion, strength, generosity and a fierce work ethic. BRIGHT FUTURE My boyfriend and I are creating a line of natural styling products, and we’ll collaborate with nonprofits. I will continue to look for ways to support gender equality, the indigenous community and the environment using my skills as a hairstylist. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF EMILY HESER

February 2018 americansalon.com 69 ■

Making Waves TEAR SHEETS

These voluminous waves speak to the ’80s adoration of everything flashy and oversized. Persil reinterpreted the decade’s style and relaxed the roots a bit for a more contemporary feel. PHOTOGRAPHY: RONALDO GUTIERREZ; MAKEUP: ZEZINHO SANTOS; FASHION STYLING: BRUNO VAROTO BRUNO STYLING: FASHION SANTOS; ZEZINHO MAKEUP: GUTIERREZ; RONALDO PHOTOGRAPHY:

70 americansalon.com February 2018 FOR ITS LATEST COLLECTION, TRUSS AND STYLIST PAULO PERSIL LOOKED TO A STYLE THAT HAS PERVADED THE 20TH CENTURY, SURVIVING NEARLY EVERY FAD: WAVES.

From the bobbed finger-waves of the 1920s to the loose, au naturale 1970s iteration to the over-teased and permed 1980s, waves have taken on many identities, and together they tell the story of 100 years of beauty. Using BaBylissPRO hot tools and Truss Fluid Fix, Instant Repair, Fix Strong Pomade, Sculpt Fix and Fluid Shine, Persil reimagines looks from the ’20s, ’30s, ’70s and ’80s, taking us on a trip back in time.—Kristen Heinzinger

Women’s style was revolutionized in the 1920s, from head to toe. Persil introduced marked waves to the era’s Coco Chanel-inspired cut, fixing the waves at the base of the neck and shortening the length with a bit of asymmetry.

A flower child sentiment crops up in this 1970s look. Persil created broader, more daring curls, loosened them a touch, and topped off the style with a single bloom barette.

Inspired by the more adjusted, finer waves of the 1930s, Persil created a bun turned backwards and used twisted strand movements, showing the sobriety of the time. Shadow Dancing TEAR SHEETS ■ GIVING ICONIC SHAPESASOFT FINISH. ARTIST, PLAYS WITHSHADOW ROOTS, LUPE VOSS, AVEDA HAIRCOLOR GUEST 72 72

americansalon.com americansalon.com styles withaninspiringhaircolor placement.—Andrea Dawn Clark the team choseblackclothing andedgymakeup. The result: timeless the hair.” To create adramatic contrast withherlight haircolor palette, melted outadifferent shade, anduseditalso for shadowing through at thebaseandthrough theinterior ofthehair,” says Voss. “Then I “I usedAveda Full Spectrum Haircolor andashadowing technique guest artist, whenshecreated agentle shadow root oneachmodel. ultimate “soft touch” from LupeVoss, (@lupevoss) Aveda Haircolor Bobs, waves andfringes—these iconic hairshapesreceived the February 2018 February 2018

OPPOSITE PAGE To create this muted color variation, “I made a mohawk subsection at the top of the head and applied the root color half an inch through,” says Voss. Afterwards, she pulled the base color up at varying widths in the proceeding partings.

THIS PAGE These ’40s style waves got a modern update with a light blue shadow root service. “To create a sheer finish, add the color in increments to your developer,” Voss suggests. PHOTOGRAPHY: MANUEL VOSS; HAIRCOLOR: LUPE VOSS; HAIR STYLING: ALLEN RUIZ; MAKEUP: JANELL GEASON; FASHION STYLING: CHRISTIAN RAMIREZ

February 2018 americansalon.com 73 TEAR SHEETS ■ shimmering effect inthehair.” roots perfectly, you can seeabeautiful “When thelight hitstheseshadow 74 americansalon.com F ebruary 2018 —LUPE VOSS says Voss. marbling effect,” had abeautiful “The finishedlook shape ofthehair. to contrast theedgy shadowout” color fringe a“melted this punkera, tight Voss wanted to give

Earth, Wind &Fire

In this American Salon exclusive, internationally acclaimed hairstylist Angelo Seminara brings desert beauty to life amid the inspired landscapes of Namibia.

Photographer ANDREW O’TOOLE Editor KELLEY DONAHUE

76 americansalon.com February 2018 Admired for his imagination, Angelo Seminara’s approach to hairstyling is that of an artist, designer or inventor, translating his observations of the world into stunning, original shapes and colors. The award-winning, London-based stylist more than delivered on his most recent endeavor—a photo- shoot collaboration with Great Lengths in Sossusvlei, Namibia. “The high red dunes, Mother Nature’s stunning afternoon lighting and the simple linear landscape was the perfect backdrop for our creative vision,” says Seminara, who called on Great Lengths hair extensions to fashion long, free-flowing creations, which he accentuated with colors. “The combination of all these elements resulted in quite an awe-inspiring collection.”

THIS PAGE Seminara used Great Lengths hair extensions and a flamboyage color technique to create this long look.

OPPOSITE PAGE Deep red dunes and a light blonde flowing mane strike a dramatic contrast in this photo. MAKEUP: DANIEL KOLARIC & NICCOLO TORELLI NICCOLO & KOLARIC DANIEL MAKEUP:

February 2018 americansalon.com 77 Seminara imbued hair extensions with blue haircolor and white clouds, proving that the sky’s the limit when it comes to his creativity.

78 americansalon.com February 2018 This natural- looking, long mane is the epitome of laid-back femininity.

FebruaryFebruary 2018 2018 americansalon.com americansalon.com 79 A balayage technique lends added drama to this long-hair look Seminara created with Great Lengths extensions.

80 americansalon.com February 2018 Seminara used a variety of hues to create his own take on locally inspired African tribal hair patterns.

February 2018 americansalon.com 81 Rebels with a Cause Rush nabs the British Hairdressing Awards 2017 Artistic Team of the Year title with a release emphasizing strong shapes and textures.

No doubt about it: Creative magic happens when artists come together, bringing their distinctive styles and unique skill-sets to the studio, with the overarching goal of lifting artistry to new levels. Witness the Rush Artistic Team’s Lost Rebels collection, seen exclusively on these pages. Strong women, sporting shattered shapes and opposing yet complementary colors of dawn and sunset, are the centerpiece of the portfolio created by International Creative Director Andy Heasman, International Colour Director Chris Williams, Editorial Director Tina Farey, Education Director Paola Pinto, and Rush team members Seung ki Baek, Jamie Benny and MJ Farmer. “Using different textures and techniques enabled us to put a new spin on classic hairstyles, creating looks with an edgy touch that are effortless, modern and cool,” says Heasman.

Photographer JACK EAMES Editor KELLEY DONAHUE

82 americansalon.com February 2018 OPPOSITE PAGE For a new take on the mullet, the Rush Artistic Team amplified texture by tightly curling the crown section and then shortening the length.

THIS PAGE “The key to this look is disconnection,” says Andy Heasman, who along with his team created the textured crown by taking each hair section and disconnecting it from the previous one. MAKEUP: KRISTINA VIDIC; FASHION STYLING: ROBERT MORRISON ROBERT STYLING: FASHION VIDIC; KRISTINA MAKEUP:

February 2018 americansalon.com 83 Layering paired with choppy fringe adds sizzle to this stylish shape.

84 americansalon.com February 2018 After crimping all the hair, the Rush Artistic Team used a paddle brush to comb strands and create voluminous, frothy texture.

FebruaryFebruary 2018 2018 americansalon.com americansalon.com 85 The Rush Artistic Team crafted braids toward the front of the hair, then used a mix of crimping and backcombing to achieve the style’s voluminous effect.

86 americansalon.com February 2018 After sectioning the hair with cotton wool, Williams used a freehand color technique to achieve patterned shades in the style.

February 2018 americansalon.com 87 archive

TRESS TO IMPRESS Awards season is in full swing, with red carpet looks taking hold of the beauty conversation (get the full report at AmericanSalon.com). What better time to look back on the trendy black-tie hairstyles of yesteryear? Take, for instance, this illustrated coif how-to from our February 1907 issue, when we were known as American Hairdresser. Ladies would have visited their hairdresser for this formal, ornate pompadour before heading to a soirée or the theater, and it would have been all the rage. How far we’ve come.—Kristen Heinzinger

88 americansalon.com February 2018

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Deluxe Prime Blond: 8x Powder: treats, detangles and your powder instantly neutralizes bond builder for warm tones. The extra protection perfect home care during coloring maintenance for a and decolorizing brass free blonde. services (40 applications).

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