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Russian Altai June 13–27, 2010 Jukka Hintikka Antero Lindholm The

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Russian Altai June 13–27, 2010 Jukka Hintikka Antero Lindholm The Russian Altai June 13–27, 2010 Jukka Hintikka Antero Lindholm The Russian Altai is rarely visited by western birders, and most European groups have visited the area only en route to Mongolia. Our team of seven Finnish birdwatchers decided to spend two weeks in the area. Even though some days on the Mongolian side of the border would probably have produced some interesting species, we found it easier not to get involved in the border bureaucracy and decided to get a more profound picture of the birds of the Russian side. The Russian Altai includes two parts: the Altai Krai and the Altai Republic. Barnaul is the biggest city in the area (capital of the krai). From birdwatcher's point of view, the Altai Republic is more interesting. It is a thinly populated, vast area of 92,000 square kilometres, and it host large woodland areas, mountains (highest peak 4506 m) and steppe. June 12, 2010 An early start from Helsinki and the morning train to St. Petersburg. Our flight departed from St. Petersburg, Pulkovo Airport at 19.40. June 13, 2010 We arrived at Barnaul 3.00 AM as scheduled. We met our guide Lena, who spoke good English and knew well the basic birds, and our driver Sergei at the airport. The trip started with wrong foot as we realised that the car (a 4W•drive UAZ van) was too small for our group by all standards. Anyway, it was impossible to get another car or hire a second vehicle at that time, so after some fierce work we managed to get ourselves and all our stuff in the van, even though travelling was like sardines in a tin can. The morning hours were spent birding at Firsovo, SE of Barnaul. River Ob was flooding, and vast areas were under water. Birding at the river banks produced Common Rosefinches, Blyth's Reed Warblers, Grasshopper Warblers, Siberian Stonechats, Kingfishers, Golden Orioles, both Common and Oriental Cuckoos and Yellow Wagtails (beema type). The highlights included a singing male Siberian Rubythroat and a Black Stork. During breakfast at a roadside cafe (delicious pies and hot tea!) we managed to find a couple of displaying Swinhoe's Snipe and our first Lanceolated Warbler was heard. Our first attempt for visitor registration was made in Gorno•Altaysk, but we missed the office hours. After Biysk, the road was cut due to the flooding river Biya. We parked by the roadside and Lena and Sergei started to prepare lunch. We had a short walk in the surrounding woodland and found a singing Dusky Warbler, a Siberian Jay and a singing Siberian Blue Robin. In a couple of hours the road was rebuilt (literally; loads of gravel was brought to the road and the road was elevated almost a metre) and we managed to reach village Artybash and Lake Teletskoye. We spent the night at a hunters' cottage on the hills 10 kilometres west of Artybash. This place proved to be excellent for a birder already in the evening: displaying Swinhoe's Snipe and singing Lanceolated and Pallas' Grasshopper Warblers and Siberian Rubythroats. June 14, 2010. Early morning birding in the forest was one of the finest hours of the trip. Species included Chiffchaff (subspecies tristis), White's Thrush, Taiga and Dark•sided Flycatchers, Radde's Warbler, Hawfinch and Little Bunting. After breakfast we returned to Artybash and after a failed registration attempt we boarded a ship, which seemed to be designed for larger waters than Lake Teletskoye. Anyhow, we cruised all the way to the southern end of the lake with several stops en route. Most interesting observations during the stops included Hume's Leaf Warbler, Black•throated Thrush and an interbreeding between alba and personata White Wagtails. The lake itself is picturesque and a tourist attraction. It is very deep with steep sides, which was probably the reason for the astonishing small numbers of water birds. We didn't see a single gull and only a couple of ducks, but luckily we did spot a small flock of Asian White•winged Scoters. We spent the night in a small village at the southernmost end of the lake, near the river Chulyshman. The water was flooding here too; our campsite was supposed to be a small cape, but due to high water it had turned into an island. The water had flooded in several houses, and the village's graveyard was about to fall into the lake due to erosion. June 15, 2010. Since there was hardly any birds to see on our island, we had arranged an early start for our ship. Unfortunately, the wind was heavy and we decided to rest until 7.00. We stopped at several sites when cruising back to Artybash. The birds included Osprey, Peregrine, several Siberian Blue Robins and Siberian Rubythroats, Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers, Black•throated Thrushes and a Red•backed Shrike. The lake itself was as stunningly beautiful and as empty of birds as yesterday. Ticks were very abundant in the woods around Lake Teletskoye. After a short walk, it was normal to find 5•10 ticks crawling on your legs or sleeves. Some of the ticks are supposed to carry a virus which causes meningitis, so checking each others arms, legs and back was done regularly. The numbers of mosquitos here seemed very low, at least from Finnish point of view. Overnight in a comfortable hotel in Artybash. June 16, 2010 Wake•up call at 3.50 AM and birding in the surroundings of Artybash. Several roads and paths were cut due to the flooding. Black•throated Thrushes were abundant (both adult and juvenile), Goldfinches (grey•headed subspecies subulata), Greenish Warblers, Hume's Leaf Warblers, Oriental Turtle Doves, Taiga Flycatcher and a singing male Black•faced Bunting. An interesting shrike was found next to our hotel, which we figured out to be an odd Brown Shrike. After an excellent breakfast we headed for a long drive towards the mountains. The day was hot (+31C) and the car tightly packed, which made us all sweat. In addition, the engine radiator caused hot air flowing into the cabin, which is probably helpful in the long cold winter, but in summer it made our travel nearly unbearable. Our aim was to get as close to the Mongolian border as we can, but we had some delays. We managed to do the obligatory immigration registration in Gorno•Altaysk, but it took us two hours of valuable time. The hot weather, overweight and upward slopes were a bit too much for the engine, and we had to stop to cool it down a couple of times. We did not have good chances for birdwatching during the day, but we managed to observe Demoiselle Crane, Greater Spotted Eagle, Ortolan Bunting, Isabelline Wheatear and Black Stork. Eventually, we found a nice camping spot in a valley near a small creek (1019m above sea level). Overnight in tents. June 17, 2010. Morning birding in the valley produced Oriental Cuckoo, several Ortolan Buntings, Dark•sided Flycatchers, both Tree and Olive•backed Pipit, Treecreeper, Nuthatch, Pied and Isabelline Wheatear and an adult Imperial Eagle. After some drive we had a stop on the dry steppe. Isabelline Wheatears were everywhere, seven Lesser Kestrels, Tawny Pipit, a pair of Imperial Eagles and Skylark. A delightful surprise was a male Meadow Bunting, which was skulking in the riverside bushes but eventually seen well. The next stop produced the first Lammergeier of the trip. We arrived at Aktash at 15.00. Surprisingly, the pre•ordered permits for the border zone were handed over to us without any bureaucracy or additional delays. After some shopping and engine fixing we continued to our accommodation: a group of small, cozy cottages in the valley bottom with beautiful views to the snow•covered high mountains. Birds in the surrounding included Black Redstart (subspecies phoenicuroides), Pine Bunting, Fork•tailed Swift and Booted Eagle. A good meal and a refreshing sauna made the day. June 18, 2010 Birds were already active in the dark at 4.00 AM. Since we were in the bottom of the valley, the sun was not visible until 8.00. Interesting birds included Tengmalm's Owl, Brown Shrike, Black•throated Accentor and a pair of Ruddy Shelduck. Chiffchaff and Hume's Leaf Warbler were common. Our first stop was in semi•desert near the flooding river Chuya. The stop produced quite a few new birds for us: lots of ducks, Coot, Whooper Swan, Booted Warbler, Citrine Wagtail, Mongolian Finch and Shore Lark. We observed some distant Buzzards, which caused some debat about identification of Upland Buzzard and Long•legged Buzzard. The next town was Kosh•Agach, which is located on the flat and treeless Chuisky Steppe. On the outskirts of the town there are several ponds, which hosted Pochard, Great Crested Grebe, Horned Grebe and Red•crested Pochard among others. After the last•minute shoppings at noon we headed off from the main road, across the Chuisky Steppe and into the mountains. Our passports and permits were checked by the border guards, and after the last bureaucracy we were on our own in the mountain area. Soon we found Black Vulture, Steppe Eagles and Citrine Wagtails. We drove the mountain roads into the eastern parts of Ukok Highland and camped by a small mountain lake (2283 metres above sea level). The view was surprisingly similar to the fjells of northern Finland: treeless, rounded mountain tops and slopes, a clear lake and dense thickets of Dwarf Birch and Downy Willow. We were very happy to find several Pallas' Reed Bunting next to our campsite and a Asian White•winged Scoter.
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