The Rouen Tourist Office magazine The Rouen Tourist Office magazine The Rouen T Tales of the river bank Tales of the river ban Armada 2008, a city at one with the sea Armada 2008, a city at one with the Getting the best out of life ! Getting the best out The cathedral : The inside story The cathedral : The inside story Focus fine food Focus fine food Weekend breaks Weekend breaks Out and about in Rouen Out and about in Rou Strolling along the Robec Strolling along the Robec Summary edition 2008 - 2009 5€ edition 2008 - 2009 5€ Tales of the river bank ‘Anchors away!’ For those who dream of the high seas 4 Armada 2008, a city at one with the sea 14 Officers and watermen 18 Call in at La Bouille 22 Bridging the gap between the Seine and the Sky 26 A woman at the helm Getting the best out of life! ‘Hoist the mainsail!’ 30 The cathedral: The inside story 37 One hundred years in Rouen 42 Antiques with ‘prestige’ 46 A day in the life of an exceptional woman 50 Women’s Rugby Focus on fine food ‘Send in the dessert!’ rings out the cry at the end of a meal. 54 The Nymphéas, to delight the palate 58 The Capucines, a feast of flavour! 62 That’s Ponpon cider! 64 Auzou and the Chocolate factory! 66 Weekend breaks… 70 Hermès, French chic 72 The big sleep 83 Out to lunch… Out and about in Rouen ‘Get out the oars!’ The sea is calm, land ahoy 88 Strolling along the Robec 92 Rouen: going green 95 Rouen for kids 98 Try a taste of Normandy in the Saint Marc Market 100 Rouen, the Divine Comedy 105 Agenda 1 Edito Having made one successful trip to Italy and before embarking on a second, the poet André Suarès remarked that ‘a successful journey is like everything else of any importance in this life. It should be considered as a work of art’. The poet who was incidentally friends with Gide, Valéry and Claudel was also a travel writer and his vivid descriptions of Marseille, Florence, Paris or Venice take us back to life at the turn of the 20th century. But, if he were alive today, would he bother to stop here in Rouen? Personally I am sure that he would. He loved the simple things in life, he was not in the least pretentious and I think that he would have fallen under the spell of the timeless charm of our city. Rouen has so many things to appreciate: its history, its heritage and today it is a vibrant modern conurbation with a warm welcome. Whether you want to focus on the sites or merely stroll along our wonderful new waterfront, whether it is to see our fabulous architecture or just to soak up the history, you will find all the information you need to get the best out of Rouen in this booklet. Once you are here you will see that there is so much to see that it is impossible to ‘do’ Rouen in a day. There is always something new to discover and of course our Tourist Office is on hand to answer all your questions. Now all that remains for you, the visitor, to do, is to open your eyes and ears to the sounds and the sites of this lovely city. I am sure that the photographs that follow will fill you with enthusiasm and encourage you to come to Rouen although if I may say so, one visit is never enough! I started with a quote so I will finish with another, this time from a great writer from Normandy: Maupassant. He said: ‘Art should only be considered “great” if it is able, at the same time, to both symbolise and convey an accurate picture of something tangible.’ If that is true, could we say that Rouen is a work of great art? Who knows! One thing is certain, our great city is here to stay and for all to enjoy! Valérie Fourneyron Députée (MP) and Mayor of Rouen 3 Tales of the river bank ‘ANCHORS AWAY!’ For whose who dream of the high seas. Armada 2008 a city at one with the sea In 2003 the first Armada attracted almost nine million visitors onto Rouen’s quays. This huge international free festival will take place from the 5th to 14th of July. The festival kicks off with the Parade up the Seine from Rouen to Honfleur: a fitting prologue to the Tall Ships’ Race to Liverpool, 2008’s European capital of culture. Ten days of events, fireworks, concerts, boat rides, fun and festivities in Rouen. ouen: latitude 49 degrees, 26 minutes and 38 seconds North; longitude 1 degree, 6 minutes, R 12 seconds East. The world’s most beautiful sai- ling ships head for Rouen every 4/5 years. And crews spruce up their uniforms, polish up the brass and wash the decks with perhaps a little more enthusiasm than usual as they get ready for the Rouen Armada. Sailors and officers from the different crews have fond memories of the trip up the Seine to the city. The river meanders 126 kilometres through the chalk cliffs of the Pays de Caux, through green meadows and grazing cows up to the soaring profile of the cathedral spire as it rises up from the blue-grey roofs that gleam like pearls in the sun, reminiscent of one of Monet’s pain- tings. This year’s event from July 5th to 14th is expecting 6,000 sailors from 15 different countries who will be welcomed by millions of visitors along the quays and waterfront in Rouen. This event could not take place without the help of the ‘Association Armada de la Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi’s masterpiece. The statue Liberté’ and its President Patrick Herr will be ready to was first sent by train to Le Havre and then from there open the fifth edition of Armada and launch 10 days went to New York by boat. of fun, fireworks and festivities. For Mr Herr, the Armada has played a major role in the reconquest of the river bank and the city’s water- Reunion on the Seine. front. The once-deserted docklands have been trans- Patrick Herr, who has been President of the Armada formed into pleasant riverside promenades with restau- organisation since its creation in 1989, thinks that rants, art galleries and fitness centres. Rouen renewed its links with the sea in 1986. Part of the celebrations for the 100th anniversary of The emblem of this regeneration is the new Gustave the ‘Statue of Liberty’ was a transatlantic race Flaubert vertical lift bridge specially designed to allow between Rouen and New-York in memory of sculptor the tall ships into the city! > 5 Armada 2008 a city at one with the sea ‘If I had one wish then it would be to see the Seine waterfront as bust- ling and busy all the time, not just ‘people get to know each during the Armada,’ sighs Patrick Herr. Today, with the regenaration other and they feel that programme that wish is fast beco- they have the time to talk. ming a reality. For me, that’s a big part Eight magical days. of the Armada magic’ The ‘Amerigo Vespucci’ will be the first ship to enter Rouen. She is due to arrive on July 3th around 5 pm. Over the years Patrick Herr has, of course, developed a wide network of contacts with the many different countries which send ships to the Armada. The Vespucci, an Italian three-masted bark, has not been back to Rouen since the Armadas of 1989 and 1994 and so its return is very welcome! The 101 metre long Vespucci is probably one of the ships that The Armada is for made the biggest impression on everyone visitors during the first two Armadas, both for the beauty of its The 2008 edition of Armada will canvass and the charm of its crew be marked by the presence of an who all have a twinkle in their eye! unusual ship, ‘The Tenacious’. > This British 65 metre long three-masted bark was launched in 2000 to give people with disabilities the opportunity to expe- rience the magic the sea and the thrill of sailing. After the event, this ship will be home for twenty disabled people who will enjoy a one-week cruise to London. The ship has had a complete refit making it perfectly suitable for those with disability. It is equipped with a lift and a handrail so anyone can come aboard and expe- rience life at sea. A chartered shuttle bet- ween the Armada site and Dieppedalle will be availa- ble for people with redu- ced mobility. 6 7 Armada 2008 a city at one with the sea and paddling pools for children, ‘plus every night millions of French and foreign visitors will enjoy the Cathedral light show, ‘From Monet to Pixels’. In this Fifth edition, ‘The cathedral from Monet to Pixels’ show will take on a special dimension. The majes- tic 12th century cathedral, will pro- vide a splendid backdrop to the tall ships, rising up like a beacon out of the darkness of the city as a fitting and everlasting flagship of the fleet as it comes once again to Rouen. Economic momentum. The Armada is a free event for the public and a real economic motor for Rouen and the region. Patrick Herr confirms: ‘The Armada has a real impact on the local eco- nomy and, of course, on tourism plus the media coverage is clearly great for Rouen.’ People remember the warm wel- Rouen Town Hall, the Conseil In 2003 the Armada attracted nine come that they had aboard and it is Général, the Region and the million people with 15% of visitors this great feeling of international Agglomeration have all organised coming from abroad.