The Rouen Tourist Office magazine
The Rouen Tourist Office magazine The Rouen T
Tales of the river bank Tales of the river ban Armada 2008, a city at one with the sea Armada 2008, a city at one with the Getting the best out of life ! Getting the best out The cathedral : The inside story The cathedral : The inside story Focus fine food Focus fine food Weekend breaks Weekend breaks Out and about in Rouen Out and about in Rou Strolling along the Robec Strolling along the Robec Summary edition 2008 - 2009 5€ edition 2008 - 2009 5€
Tales of the river bank ‘Anchors away!’ For those who dream of the high seas 4 Armada 2008, a city at one with the sea 14 Officers and watermen 18 Call in at La Bouille 22 Bridging the gap between the Seine and the Sky 26 A woman at the helm Getting the best out of life! ‘Hoist the mainsail!’ 30 The cathedral: The inside story 37 One hundred years in Rouen 42 Antiques with ‘prestige’ 46 A day in the life of an exceptional woman 50 Women’s Rugby Focus on fine food ‘Send in the dessert!’ rings out the cry at the end of a meal. 54 The Nymphéas, to delight the palate 58 The Capucines, a feast of flavour! 62 That’s Ponpon cider! 64 Auzou and the Chocolate factory! 66 Weekend breaks… 70 Hermès, French chic 72 The big sleep 83 Out to lunch… Out and about in Rouen ‘Get out the oars!’ The sea is calm, land ahoy 88 Strolling along the Robec 92 Rouen: going green 95 Rouen for kids 98 Try a taste of Normandy in the Saint Marc Market 100 Rouen, the Divine Comedy 105 Agenda
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Edito
Having made one successful trip to Italy and before embarking on a second, the poet André Suarès remarked that ‘a successful journey is like everything else of any importance in this life. It should be considered as a work of art’. The poet who was incidentally friends with Gide, Valéry and Claudel was also a travel writer and his vivid descriptions of Marseille, Florence, Paris or Venice take us back to life at the turn of the 20th century. But, if he were alive today, would he bother to stop here in Rouen? Personally I am sure that he would. He loved the simple things in life, he was not in the least pretentious and I think that he would have fallen under the spell of the timeless charm of our city. Rouen has so many things to appreciate: its history, its heritage and today it is a vibrant modern conurbation with a warm welcome. Whether you want to focus on the sites or merely stroll along our wonderful new waterfront, whether it is to see our fabulous architecture or just to soak up the history, you will find all the information you need to get the best out of Rouen in this booklet. Once you are here you will see that there is so much to see that it is impossible to ‘do’ Rouen in a day. There is always something new to discover and of course our Tourist Office is on hand to answer all your questions. Now all that remains for you, the visitor, to do, is to open your eyes and ears to the sounds and the sites of this lovely city. I am sure that the photographs that follow will fill you with enthusiasm and encourage you to come to Rouen although if I may say so, one visit is never enough! I started with a quote so I will finish with another, this time from a great writer from Normandy: Maupassant. He said: ‘Art should only be considered “great” if it is able, at the same time, to both symbolise and convey an accurate picture of something tangible.’ If that is true, could we say that Rouen is a work of great art? Who knows! One thing is certain, our great city is here to stay and for all to enjoy!
Valérie Fourneyron Députée (MP) and Mayor of Rouen
3 Tales of the river bank ‘ANCHORS AWAY!’ For whose who dream of the high seas. Armada 2008 a city at one with the sea In 2003 the first Armada attracted almost nine million visitors onto Rouen’s quays. This huge international free festival will take place from the 5th to 14th of July. The festival kicks off with the Parade up the Seine from Rouen to Honfleur: a fitting prologue to the Tall Ships’ Race to Liverpool, 2008’s European capital of culture. Ten days of events, fireworks, concerts, boat rides, fun and festivities in Rouen.
ouen: latitude 49 degrees, 26 minutes and 38 seconds North; longitude 1 degree, 6 minutes, R 12 seconds East. The world’s most beautiful sai- ling ships head for Rouen every 4/5 years. And crews spruce up their uniforms, polish up the brass and wash the decks with perhaps a little more enthusiasm than usual as they get ready for the Rouen Armada. Sailors and officers from the different crews have fond memories of the trip up the Seine to the city. The river meanders 126 kilometres through the chalk cliffs of the Pays de Caux, through green meadows and grazing cows up to the soaring profile of the cathedral spire as it rises up from the blue-grey roofs that gleam like pearls in the sun, reminiscent of one of Monet’s pain- tings. This year’s event from July 5th to 14th is expecting 6,000 sailors from 15 different countries who will be welcomed by millions of visitors along the quays and waterfront in Rouen. This event could not take place without the help of the ‘Association Armada de la Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi’s masterpiece. The statue Liberté’ and its President Patrick Herr will be ready to was first sent by train to Le Havre and then from there open the fifth edition of Armada and launch 10 days went to New York by boat. of fun, fireworks and festivities. For Mr Herr, the Armada has played a major role in the reconquest of the river bank and the city’s water- Reunion on the Seine. front. The once-deserted docklands have been trans- Patrick Herr, who has been President of the Armada formed into pleasant riverside promenades with restau- organisation since its creation in 1989, thinks that rants, art galleries and fitness centres. Rouen renewed its links with the sea in 1986. Part of the celebrations for the 100th anniversary of The emblem of this regeneration is the new Gustave the ‘Statue of Liberty’ was a transatlantic race Flaubert vertical lift bridge specially designed to allow between Rouen and New-York in memory of sculptor the tall ships into the city!
> 5 Armada 2008 a city at one with the sea ‘If I had one wish then it would be to see the Seine waterfront as bust- ling and busy all the time, not just ‘people get to know each during the Armada,’ sighs Patrick Herr. Today, with the regenaration other and they feel that programme that wish is fast beco- they have the time to talk. ming a reality.
For me, that’s a big part Eight magical days. of the Armada magic’ The ‘Amerigo Vespucci’ will be the first ship to enter Rouen. She is due to arrive on July 3th around 5 pm. Over the years Patrick Herr has, of course, developed a wide network of contacts with the many different countries which send ships to the Armada. The Vespucci, an Italian three-masted bark, has not been back to Rouen since the Armadas of 1989 and 1994 and so its return is very welcome! The 101 metre long Vespucci is probably one of the ships that The Armada is for made the biggest impression on everyone visitors during the first two Armadas, both for the beauty of its The 2008 edition of Armada will canvass and the charm of its crew be marked by the presence of an who all have a twinkle in their eye! unusual ship, ‘The Tenacious’. > This British 65 metre long three-masted bark was launched in 2000 to give people with disabilities the opportunity to expe- rience the magic the sea and the thrill of sailing.
After the event, this ship will be home for twenty disabled people who will enjoy a one-week cruise to London. The ship has had a complete refit making it perfectly suitable for those with disability. It is equipped with a lift and a handrail so anyone can come aboard and expe- rience life at sea.
A chartered shuttle bet- ween the Armada site and Dieppedalle will be availa- ble for people with redu- ced mobility.
6 7 Armada 2008 a city at one with the sea and paddling pools for children, ‘plus every night millions of French and foreign visitors will enjoy the Cathedral light show, ‘From Monet to Pixels’. In this Fifth edition, ‘The cathedral from Monet to Pixels’ show will take on a special dimension. The majes- tic 12th century cathedral, will pro- vide a splendid backdrop to the tall ships, rising up like a beacon out of the darkness of the city as a fitting and everlasting flagship of the fleet as it comes once again to Rouen.
Economic momentum. The Armada is a free event for the public and a real economic motor for Rouen and the region. Patrick Herr confirms: ‘The Armada has a real impact on the local eco- nomy and, of course, on tourism plus the media coverage is clearly great for Rouen.’ People remember the warm wel- Rouen Town Hall, the Conseil In 2003 the Armada attracted nine come that they had aboard and it is Général, the Region and the million people with 15% of visitors this great feeling of international Agglomeration have all organised coming from abroad. Almost 5,000 cooperation and friendship that different events which mean that the press articles were written and more makes the Armada so special. Armada will not just be on the river than 600 journalists were accredited As Patrick Herr says: ‘It’s a truly but happening all over the city. All for the event. The Armada has thus popular festival, a special moment the districts of the conurbation will be become a vital means of promotion when people from all over the world flagged out in the colours of the diffe- not just for the town but for the come together. During the Rouen rent countries present. region as a whole. Armada, you really have a chance to Of course Rouen and Normandy meet people from so many different have not waited for the Armada to countries and people get to know each promote themselves either at home other and they feel that they have the in France or abroad. The time to talk. For me, that’s a big part Impressionists and the Normandy of the Armada magic.’ authors: Flaubert, Maupassant, Twenty military vessels and as Hugo, are perhaps some of the many civilian ones will be moored region’s most famous ambassadors. alongside during the 2008 Armada. Nevertheless the ‘Armada’ event has 2 of the latest exhibitors to register become a really original and dyna- are Mircea, a 83 metre long three- mic way to promote the city. masted bark from Rumania, and Mercedes, a 50 metre long brig from the Netherlands. ‘There will be some new develop- ments for this fifth Armada: the Mercedes and some of the other exhi- There will be lots going on: a big bitors will become floating restau- wheel sponsored by the 76 rants and will serve lunches aboard .’ Department will tower over the The river and the waterfront will be quay; the Conseil Régional has pro- the focal points of the festival. grammed free concerts every eve- ‘The city, too, will play a major part in ning, the Agglo of Rouen will offer the festival,’ explains the President. tree-climbing adventure activities
8 8 Photo : F. Carmuccini / Ville de Rouen de / Ville Carmuccini : Photo F.
9 Armada 2008 a city at one with the sea Tall Ships’Race, the adventure goes on!
On July 14th the Armada leaves This race is not really a race, as the Rouen and starts the slow and plea- criteria for success are friendship sant Parade down the river Seine to and a positive attitude. Honfleur. When the participants get to More than one sailor will probably Liverpool, the mayor and Patrick leave with a broken heart! For Herr will distribute the Armada others, their last night will disap- 2008 Grand Trophées and awards. pear in a blaze of light from the fire- The first Tall Ships’ Race was held works launched from the Gustave in 1956; it was known then as the Flaubert vertical lift bridge to the Cutty Sark Race. Since 2002 this chords of Beethoven’s Symphony n° 9 race has been organised by the (in D minor). A monumental work English association ‘Sail Training described by Richard Wagner as the International’. The race takes one ‘The symphony to end all sympho- month and is held every year in nies’. European waters. This majestic closing ceremony will The Tall Ships’ Race usually assem- certainly make an impression on ble a fleet of 50 to 100 ships of all even the hardest sailors. This final shapes and sizes and from over 20 day will be also be the start of ano- different countries. ther adventure: the Prologue to the Tall Ships’ Race. This starts on Any single hulled sailing vessel of at Monday 14th of July and will close least 9.4 metre can take part on one on the 18th in Liverpool, 2008 condition, at least 50 % of the crew European Capital of Culture. must be aged between 15 and 25. For this occasion, the dormitories Sail Training International is a and cabins of Statsraad Lehmkuhl, worldwide association well-known to Sorlandet and Christian Radich and the friends of the Tall Ships and it others will be ready to welcome 200 supports Armada 2008. adults aboard at the cost of a mere The Tall Ships’ Race 2008 will be 600 € all included (except return). held from July 18th to August 23rd. Less experienced sailors and land It will leave from Liverpool and sail lubbers can sail the short distance to Norway (Maloy and Bergen) and between Rouen and Honfleur, down from there to Den Helder in the the Seine as part of the parade. Netherlands. For those with a taste for adventure, (http://www.amisdesgrandsvoiliers.org) they can set sail from Honfleur, where a huge festival will take place in the presence of Albert de Monaco, and then cross over to Liverpool.
10 11 Armada 2008 a city at one with the sea Rouen, and the Armada
The event is a fun-packed festival. Local authorities have worked tirelessly to ensure that a wide range of cultural and sporting events are on offer free for the millions of expected visitors. Rouen town, the Rouen Conurbation committee, the Departmental council of Seine Maritime and the Region of Haute-Normandie will all be present on the quays along both banks of the Seine to show their commitment to the festival and to the River. The fun starts early on Thursday To accompany the ships as they go The town will flag the colours of the 3rd July with La Grande Pagaille, a many different events have been five continents. It will be the slapstick race of crazy craft. organised in the different riverside opportunity for Rouen to confirm its The day after the first tall ships will communities. This sail past will be maritime identity and to promote its arrive in Rouen, passing sailing attended by hundreds of thousands close ties to the river. through the span of the impressive of people and will be the start of the Gustave Flaubert bridge. Prologue to the Tall Ships’ Race Cafés and restaurants will ring with 2008 (formerly the Cutty Sark Race) As part of the closing ceremony on the sound of a multitude of different from Rouen to Liverpool. The Monday 14th July, the ships will languages and there will be Grands Trophées of the Armada slowly leave Rouen’s quays and ‘pompons’everywhere! (Red pompons 2008 will be distributed on that launch the Parade down the Seine to are a feature of French naval occasion. uniforms.) the sea. The Rouen conurbation committee is sponsoring a ‘water bar’ and adventure tree-climbing (accrobranches) for our younger visitors while older visitors will be encouraged to have a go on the ‘ropes’. A big wheel sponsored by the Seine Maritime departmental council will be set up on the quays offering fabulous views of the sailing ships. Free concerts will be on offer every evening sponsored by the Region. The programme, which is guaranteed to get everyone up on their feet, features stars like Cali, Alain Bashung, Gilberto Gil, Hugues Aufray and many others! During the Armada 2008 people will enjoy twelve non stop fun days and some great evening entertainment. From Saturday 5th, July until Sunday 13th July free shows and concerts start nightly at 9 pm followed at 11 pm by fireworks.
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14 Officers and watermen With the Channel at one end and Paris the other, the capital of Normandy is the ideal place to discover the region which is, after all, home both to the Impressionists and to the writers Flaubert and Maupassant. To arrive in Rouen by boat or houseboat is a real experience, not only because of the stunning scenery on either side of the Seine but also because the city is both a river and a sea port. It is at Rouen that the salt waters of the Channel meet the fresh waters of the Seine.
‘ was surrounded by such extraordinary landscape that not even the most weird and wonderful I things could have surprised me.’ In 1876, Guy de Maupassant published ‘Sur l’eau’ in the Bulletin Français. This is the story of a one man’s fear on a changing river. Maupassant was himself sailor and enjoyed rowing. He Covered in a thick and gloomy fog, the river is wild knew the Seine inside out. from the salty waters of the and endlessly wide, full of strange sounds, of croaking estuary to the increasingly fresh water as the riverbanks frogs and whistling reeds.....terrifying. of Rouen approach. For Maupassant, the Seine is a Set on a sultry summer night, the poor oarsman is theatre, a living opera house. stuck; his anchor trapped and even worse lies in store at the end of the story. Yet all the time he is totally mes- Impressionist landscapes. merised, bewitched by the river. The river Seine is the focal point for light. In the ever-changing light on the river anything becomes possible, everything changes according to the light, whether it be the pale wintry light of the sun in November, whether it hits the steamy air of July, whether the glow of a red harvest moon gently brushes the cheeks of a passer-by, or whether it is a stolen touch as quiet and undetected as a burglar. Light is more than just the star of this show in Normandy, it is the very essence of the region. Raoul Grimoin-Sanson, born in Elbeuf- sur Seine (1860-1941), was inspired by the light playing on the Seine. Besides a
Photo : Port Autonome de Rouen de Autonome : Photo Port machine to bleach paper and a gas Born near Dieppe, Maupassant knew Rouen and the mask, he also invented the Cinérama, a surrounding area well. He used the familiar scenery panoramic film projection system involving ten synchro- around Rouen as a backdrop to an episode in Bel Ami, nized projectors, quite different from the system of pho- one where the author describes the river, inspired by the tography invented by Nicéphore Niépce in Chalon-sur- changing and turbulent waters of the Seine. Saône. Once again the river inspired people to capture the mysteries and the very substance of light. >
15 All of this just to say… that probably the best way to understand Rouen fully, or to get a glimpse of its very soul, is to arrive aboard a boat or a barge up the river Seine, which incidentally can accommodate vessels up to 289 metres long and with a tonnage of 150,000. The town of Rouen is at the junction of the two ports with the river port upriver and Rouen sea port down- stream.
‘the Seine is a theatre, a living opera house’
16 17 Rêver Call in at La Bouille Only twenty kilometres from Rouen by car, La Bouille is a small village nestling on the left bank of one of the most attractive loops of the Seine. You can also get to la Bouille from Sahurs on the right bank by ferry-boat and the village of Hector Malot is a popular stop for city dwellers in search of gourmet delights.
‘ t one o’clock we heard a piercing whistle, it was the “Steam” said the locals. Three times a day, a A boat comes up from Rouen to La Bouille.’ So wrote Caroline Commanville, Gustave Flaubert’s niece and heiress in “Souvenirs intimes”. In this piece published in 1886. she described how the steam boat travelled daily back and forth between Rouen and the small town of La Bouille, fifteen kilometres downs- tream from the city on the left bank of the Seine. Uncle Gustave was amused by ‘The steam’. Two years earlier, his young friend Maupassant, in a preface to the ‘Lettres from Flaubert to Sand’ wrote: ‘Sundays the good burghers of Rouen like to lunch at La Bouille and they are always very disappointed if they do not see the eccentric Mr Flaubert standing at his window as they sail by on their way home.’ At the end of the 19th century, when talking about his friend Flaubert, the author of Horla wrote: ‘He too was way replaced the numerous steam boat sailings from amused to see this crowded ship. He used to get out his Rouen, Madame Dupuis from La Bouille prepared an opera glasses, always ready to hand on his table or on excellent ‘Double crème’. the chimney corner, to watch with equal curiosity all This cylindrical cheese, seven centimetres in diameter, those faces that were so eagerly looking at him. Their weighed in at about one pound with 60% fat and a ugliness and their astonished expressions used to make white and yellow rind. him laugh out loud. He could tell at a glance the cha- Madame Dupuis used to sell her cheese on a plane-tree racter, the temperament and the stupidity behind each leaf and the people of Rouen loved it. Sadly today this and everyone of those faces.’ delicious cheese has all but disappeared. However, La Bouille is still a great place for those who love fine food. Gourmet stop. It is well worth taking the ferry-boat and heading for From the 17th century until the railway in the mid the restaurant (as there are only three bridges between 19th century, La Bouille was a port of call always Rouen and Le Havre, several ferry-boats still cross from much-appreciated by the middle classes from Rouen. one bank to the other). But what did they find so attractive about this loop on Among favourite dining places in La Bouille: the river Seine? ‘La Maison Blanche’, ‘Le Bellevue’ and ‘Les They came here to enjoy fine food. At first it was just Gastronomes’ are three of the most well known and all a nice country area for picnics but little by little La 3 are often listed in the selection of the hundred best Bouille became a place for tourists coming up from the restaurants in Haute-Normandie put together by our town. colleague: the ‘Petit Normand ’ guide. Then La Bouille became a well-known gourmet-desti- The attractive little streets of La Bouille are full of art nation. At the end of the 19th century, when the rail- galleries and artists’ workshops. So call in ......
2018 19 Hector Malot from la Bouille Hector Malot, writer and author of ‘Sans famille’, was born in La Bouille in 1878 where he lived until the age of five. He was deeply attached to his roots in La Bouille. His birth had been marked by a remarkable event that his mother was proud to recount as she read her travel books (she had married a sailor who died in Saint-Domingo). The story is well known. On May 20th, 1830, only a few hours after Malot’s birth, the mast of a passing sailing boat broke the window of the baby’s room. In ‘Souvenirs d’un blessé’ in 1872, Hector Malot wrote that his native village is for Rouen ‘as important as Saint Cloud and Joinville are for Paris.’ He meant that La Bouille was a popular place for entertainment where people went on Sundays for canoeing and country dinners. The truth is that even today La Bouille remains a charming riverside spot and the surrounding area is really delightful. Hector’s father was a lawyer and mayor of the village. A literary document on the Malot family, edited by the association of the friends of Hector Malot (http://www.hector-malot.org), describes in detail the houses and places frequented by this child of the region.
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22 Bridging the gap between the Seine and the Sky
With the inauguration in 2008 of the highest vertical lift bridge in the world, Rouen now boasts six crossings over the Seine for vehicles and pedestrians alike. Downstream as far as Honfleur and Le Havre, there are only three bridges over the Seine (Brotonne, Tancarville and Normandy). That makes a total of nine bridges to discover! Two of them will be in the spotlight in 2008. They have been named after a writer of genius and an opera composer much appreciated by Wagner and they both come from Rouen.
n Boieldieu Bridge, 10 Land ahead? to explore the depths of Brazil. He Obronze bust sculptures gleam Someone from Normandy, and sailed under the Dieppe flag. and, in the soft Rouen light. Ten especially if that someone was from although not from Rouen, he was navigators, whose eyes endlessy Rouen, would not believe their ears at least from Normandy. search the horizon, looking west- if we told them that Rouen was His forerunner, Jean de wards 126 kilometres down the really an island! Béthenourt, from the Durdent val- Seine as it twists and turns to the But let’s think about it a minute. ley in the Pays de Caux, conquered bustling waters of the Channel, Rouen is only seventy-four kilome- the Canary Islands and brought one of the busiest waterways in the tres from the Seine estuary as the back to Normandy a lucrative world (distance as the gull flies 74 crow flies which puts it quite a way monopoly in the sale of archil, a kilometres). from the sea. However, it was from vegetal colorant. Jean-Marc de Pas, the artist who Rouen that René Robert Cavelier Rouen behaves like an island! The made these heads, worked in full de la Salle embarked for the New city has always looked seawards view of the public during the World in 1667. He went to the and beyond. The Boieldieu bridge Armadas of 1999 and 2003. Great Lakes in the United States reminds those that cross the river Sponsored by the association and Canada and from there travel- today of the city’s long maritime Rouen Conquérant, this artist has led down the Mississippi River to traditions and heritage. found a way to convey the city’s the delta and discovered Louisiana. maritime past and the emotion of The original French colony in Butterfly effect. the city’s reunion with the Tall North America stretched from ‘I have been working on the construc- Ships. Just for an instant, one Quebec to Texas and was later sold tion of this sixth bridge since the could almost believe that Rouen by Napoleon in 1803 for 15 mil- beginning of June 2004.’ Jérôme was an island! lion dollars. Lallier is the sole photographer to Jacques Cartier from St Malo was have been authorised to record the >
23 four long years of complex building works required for this, the world’s highest lift bridge. He has now published a fascinating book (Le Pont Gustave Flaubert in Rouen, 35 € textual editions). ‘I was alongside the construction workers so I was able to capture their movements, the expression of the pride and joy they felt in being part of such an extraordinary experience.’ In 2006, the people of Rouen realised that this bridge, as then without a name and just referred to as bridge number 6, would be a truly exceptional feat of engi- neering. At that moment only four pylons and gabions acting as The Gustave Flaubert bridge is the sixth bridge over the Seine in bumpers in case of collision, rose up out of the river Rouen. To help traffic flow throughout the city, the option of a Seine. vertical lift bridge was chosen as it allows to larger vessels to On August 16th and 17th came the lifting and laying enter the city as far up as the Guillaume le Conquérant bridge, of two splendid metal ‘butterflies’ onto the top of the which is where the Seine river ceases to be tidal. Open in 2008 concrete pylons. Later on the double deck arrived on for The Armada, the Flaubert bridge is linked to the motorway barges and was lifted and laid on to the butterflies with A150 north (direction Barentin/Dieppe) and the A13 Normandy motorway south of Rouen. cables. Suddenly there it was, the bridge was almost complete. Total length including viaducts: 670 metres. 120 metre long and with pylons standing 86 metre high, the Gustave Flaubert bridge will lift 55 metre above the water level and so allow large vessels, inclu- ding the Armada Tall Ships to pass up the river to the centre of the city. The Flaubert bridge was designed by Rouen behaves like an island! architects Michel Virlogeux and Aymeric Zubléna, designers of the Normandy bridge and the Stade de The city has always looked France. A 6th crossing was needed to reduce traffic seawards and beyond. flow in the centre of Rouen and to improve environ- mental protection against noise and pollution. Everyday about 100;000 vehicles cross the river.
The double deck is 120 metre long and each side weighs 1,300 tons. It is supported by four pylons (in two sets of two) embedded deep into the river Seine bed. It will take 12 minutes to raise the roadway.
Total cost including the approach roads: 154 million euros. Estimated traffic: 50,000 vehicles per day.
24 Pont Boieldieu, a cardinal point
Going from the right bank sculptures were financed to the left bank these sta- by different companies tues represent the explo- based in Rouen (Caisse rers Jean François de la des dépôts, CIC, Dalkia, Pérouse, Jacques Cartier, Ferrero, the Fondation James Cook, Amerigo Bettencourt Schueller, Vespucci, Cavelier de la Lubrizol, Matmut, the Salle, Jean de Port Autonome, Quille et Béthencourt, Fernando Ressorts Masselin). Magellan, Christophe Colomb, Marco Polo and Vasco de Gama. These
25 A woman at the helm Catherine Cornu is a Seine pilot. This ‘first class captain of marine navigation’ sailed the African seas for over ten years. She is also the only woman maritime pilot in France. In June 2000, she passed the competitive pilot exam at the age of 34 and started work, standing in for experienced pilots. Today she can pilot any kind of vessel.
‘ e are lucky working in such a wonderful environ- ment,’ she says, but Catherine Cornu has a W watchful eye and an unusual job. Between Rouen and Le Havre, vessels loaded with cereals, wood or refined products sailing between the willows and poplars that line the banks of the Seine are all totally dependent on her knowledge of the river. goods transited via the 126 kilometres Seine waterway. Measuring 289 metres Cape Shanghai, a Hong Kong Catherine Cornu’s job is to prevent the difficulties coal carrier, is the longest vessel ever to enter the har- posed to navigation by the rhythm of the tides. bour in Rouen. ‘Of course when we are piloting we look at the amazing ‘Many captains tell us that Seine is one of the nicest rivers landscape that surrounds us. The light on the river is mar- in Europe; the hills coming down to the river and our vellous, like poetry, we often see picturesque steeples emer- Norman-style houses are lovely.’ ging from the mist, herons and wildlife. Don’t forget, up Although Catherine is from Normandy and proud to on the bridge we have a marvellous viewpoint and that is be so, she is only repeating what the sailors tell her!! fantastic. The 55 Seine pilots have a vital task leading ships ups- ‘However, the sandbanks and the mist on the river can tream to Rouen. be really dangerous, you have to really concentrate. ‘We have both human and economic responsibilities.’ The mist can come down at any time and you have to be focused all the time, it is really exhausting. We just keep Every year 7,000 sea-vessels travel between Le Havre our eyes fixed on the radar screen.’ and Rouen. In 2007 more than 22 millions tons of She adds with a smile: ‘Silly really, mist at night is psy- chologically more difficult to handle than mist in the day- time.’ She also has to deal with the helmsmen’s reactions, she has to understand captains from many different coun- tries and communicate in technical ‘maritime’ English. ‘On board we give the instructions for the tiller and the machines, we also communicate with the outside world, >
26 ‘For me the Seine means staying aboard...sailing the Seine.’
27 giving out information, arrival times and so on. We keep in touch with the ferry-boats, push and tug boats and our job is to avoid collisions.’ During the four hours that it takes to get to Rouen, Catherine Cornu enjoys some warm moments, sharing a joke with the crew, telling them the history of the Seine. ‘I like the contact with foreign crews, we talk about their countries, their culture, their families.’ She smiles again. ‘They ask me if I’ve got a husband and children and then say, how come a nice girl like you isn’t married ?’ . Chinese sailors are always astounded when they see a woman coming aboard from the small ‘pilotine’. ‘When they see me they laugh and take pictures.’ The ‘pilotine’ is the small speedboat that brings the pilot to the vessel as it approaches the Seine. Seine pilots have to get in and out of the assisted vessel in all weathers: ‘You really have to choose the right moment to drop the ladder.’ Catherine Cornu entered the navy just after the bacca- laureate. ‘I passed the competitive exam to enter the mer- chant navy in Le Havre in 1984 when I was 18. I then spent five years there with four years ashore and two months of navigation in between. Then I embarked for one year as a young hopeful, then as an officer for a container company. My first experience was in 1985 on the ore car- rier Cetra Corona, travelling from Le Havre to Richard’s Bay, in South Africa: 24 days on the high seas without stopping and rounding the Cape of Good Hope.’ In 1991 this young woman even went to Kuwait after the first Gulf War. ‘To bring back legionnaires, tanks and helicopters.’ But Catherine Cornu is first and foremost a sailor, even if today she is a river pilot ‘For me the Seine means staying aboard...sailing the Seine.’ ■
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Getting the best out of life!
‘HOIST THE MAINSAIL!!’ Get the best out of life! The Cathedral: the inside story
The Cathedral bares its soul ..... The title reminds us of Marcel Duchamp’s le Grand Verre: Bride stripped bare by her Bachelors, a work on glass dating from between 1915 and 1923 and today on exhibition in the Museum of Philadelphia. Marcel Duchamp, artist and famous chess champion of Haute-Normandie, is a true Franco-American born in Blainville-Crevon, a quiet little town just twenty kilometres north-east of Rouen which hosts a swinging festival Archéo-Jazz every year at the end of June under the patronage of Dee Dee Bridgewater.
The cathedral of Rouen is 144 metres high and 61 metres wide. It has the widest façade in France of all cathedrals. Through the western façade you can retrace the development of the gothic style. The lantern tower, junction of nave and transept. The gothic style developed with the rise of cities. In the 12th century, Henry II (Plantagenet), King of England and Duke of Normandy, granted the first city charter to the burghers of Rouen. From that time the cathedral became one of the expressions of the city’s political autonomy.
‘I am the living representation of over 1,000 years’ of history.’
arcel Duchamp, alias Rose Sélavy, was born in Grand-Pont represent the cardo; behind you it is the 1887, three years before Claude Monet started decumanus, today the rue du Gros Horloge. Work star- M to paint his series of ‘cathedrals’ from his view- ted on my construction in 1145, so I am essentially a point on the first floor of what today is the Rouen gothic monument, but let me remind you that my ori- Tourist Office. gins go back at least to the 4th century. Things were Duchamp died in 1968 (and is buried in the monu- very different then in those pagan times! In the 11th mental cemetery of Rouen with the famous epitaph century I was what is known as a romanesque church ‘it’s always used to be other people who died’). and was consecrated in 1063. In 1145 the building of 1968 was one year before another famous painter Roy the Saint Romain tower (it is the one on the left) on my Lichtenstein depicted this same monument in romanesque foundations transformed me into the ‘pop art’ style, on a triptych called Rouen Cathedral Set V. gothic monument that you see today. For the fortieth anniversary of Duchamp’s death, we The visitors: Saint-Romain? have conducted an imaginary interview with Rouen’s The cathedral: Yes, he was my first bishop in the 7th signature monument, a building as famous as any jet- century, long before your time! setting celebrity. But you know I was built on what had always been a traditional meeting place. Although Rouen has never Interview with a Cathedral (a world exclusive). had a royal palace, I have always been a city within a The visitors: Oh! So here you are! city, almost a sort of administrative complex. The cathedral: Greetings! Dear visitors, if you look care- In those days I was completely surrounded by half-tim- fully you will see that I am strategically placed at the bered houses for my canons and a hospital for poor peo- intersection of the roman ‘cardo’ and ‘decumanus. ple. The hospital moved in 1758 to La Madeleine, in On my right and left sides the rues des Carmes and the Hotel Dieu which is today our Préfecture. The visitors: What about the archbishopric? The cathedral: Oh, I see, you’ve done your homework! Yes, that’s right, I am the sole remaining cathedral in France with a bishop’s palace and moreover with an archbishop in residence. The visitors: Well, we know Notre Dame in Paris and the cathedral in Chartres, they seem to be better orga- nised than you! The cathedral: I beg your pardon! A little respect please! While I admit that my ‘relatives’ may be larger and built on a grander scale than I, let me remind you that if Monet and Lichtenstein were obsessed by my architec- tural ‘patchwork’, it is because I am the living represen- tation of over 1,000 years’ of history. I am poetry in motion and, if I may say so, my nave is exquisite! The visitors: Do you mean you are a kind of sacred architectural expression of all the ideas that developed over the centuries? A combination of stone and colour! Like an open encyclopaedia reminding us of every step in Part of the stained glass window religious and philosophical thought since the Middle Ages? dedicated to the first bishop of The cathedral: Well put, sirs! An excellent turn of phrase! Rouen in the 7th century, > Saint-Romain slaying the dragon.
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The visitors: Well, we have already been around Rouen with one of your super guide-lecturers from the Tourist Office. Did you know that those professional guides are accredited by the Ministry of Culture and are part of the national network of artistic and historic cities? Rouen has been a member of this association since 2002. The cathedral: Oh! I see. A bit like my former Swiss guards! The visitors: Sorry, what do you mean? The cathedral: Don’t you remember? Flaubert wrote about the Swiss Guards in Madame Bovary! You know: the bit where Emma arranges a date with her lover Léon, here at this very spot. Flaubert says there was a Swiss guard and he describes him: ‘Plume on head, sword on calf, cane in hand, more solemn than a cardinal and shiny like a ciborium. He Statue of Richard Cœur de Lion. The burial statue dates from moved towards Léon and with the kind hypocritical a century after the king’s death. His heart is kept in a casket smile such as churchman give to children he said: “I in the cathedral treasury. His body lies in Fontevraud Abbey. would guess that you are not from around here, sir? Charles V’s heart is also buried in Rouen’s cathedral. Would you like to see inside the church?”’ And do you know, he refused the invitation! The visitors: Well, maybe Léon was just thinking about something else. The cathedral: Yes, he just wanted to call a hansom cab.
‘... the sole remaining ■ cathedral in France with a bishop’s palace and moreover with an archbishop in residence.’
Statues of the prophets. These were originally on the façade of the cathedral, and then placed in the choir after restoration.
34 The Virgin Chapel at the end of the chancel has many graves. Two of them are worth noting: Georges d’Amboise (1460–1510), one of the patrons of renaissance art in Normandy, and Louis de Brézé (†1531), Grand-sénéchal of Normandy, grandson of Agnès Sorel and Charles VII. The sculpture on his tomb is particularly lifelike and touching. The model for his weeping widow (on the left) was the very beautiful Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II of France.
The Cathedral is a veritable Bible set in stone. All the paintings and pictures, statues, low reliefs and stained glass windows provided religious education for worshippers as well as retracing the building’s past.
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One hundred years in Rouen
The ‘Syndicat d’initiative’ of Rouen and Haute-Normandie was founded in 1908. In the 20th century Rouen was known as the ‘city of one hundred steeples’. An exhibition of the history of promotional materials and posters is on display at the Tourist Office.
008 will be a year of commemora- 2 tions: 1968, Marcel Duchamp was buried in Rouen; 1808, creation of the botanic gardens; 1988, first edition of the Festival of Nordic cinema; 1928, the railway station was inaugurated, 16 years after the start of its construction. As well as its hundred steeples, Rouen is also the city which will forever be associated with the father of contemporary art, the author of an urinal called ‘Fontaine’ (chipped when Pierre Pinoncelli took a hammer to it, an act that cost him a fine of 215,000 €). Belgian poet Emile Verhaeren was one of the poets The botanic gardens were created more than two hun- who, like Guillaume Appollinaire, wrote about emer- dred years ago as a result of Rouen’s maritime links. ging modernity at the beginning of the twentieth cen- Later the garden was moved onto hunting grounds pre- tury. Verhaeren died in Rouen in a train accident but viously owned by John Law, banker of the regent was buried in Belgium. Throughout the 20th century, Philippe d’Orleans, and responsible for one of the most Rouen was always a favourite destination for celebrities. famous bankruptcies in history. Some of the famous visitors proof of this international Rouen was the first city to welcome Baltic filmmakers interest : the Negus Haïlé Sélassié, Nikita Khrushchev, to Western Europe. Elisabeth II of England, Léopold Sédar Senghor, all of Rouen was only one hour and fifteen minutes from whom came here on official visits. Paris in 1928 - and still is today eighty years later. In show-business the references to Rouen are also inte- resting. Many films set in Paris during the Middle Ages Summary of the previous episodes. have used the medieval-style scenery of Rouen: such as Marcel Duchamp is buried in Rouen (although he died in ‘Adieu Poulet’ starring Lino Ventura and Patrick Neuilly-sur-Seine, known for its presidents and postmen). Dewaere, filmed in 1975, Chabrol’s 1999 ‘Madame Bovary’ >
37 One century in Rouen
with Isabelle Huppert filmed on the cathedral parvis and more recently Agnès Jaoui’s ‘Le Goût des autres’ fil- med in and around the Théâtre des deux rives. This all goes to show that Rouen is much more than a ‘museum city’, a slogan invented by the Syndicat d’ini- tiative to show Rouen had not been completely des- troyed by the 1944 bombings. Rouen is above all a lively city steeped in art and history.
May 1962 : André Hunebelle films the ‘Mystères de Paris’, with Jean Marais, in a picturesque part of Rouen now no longer. (Photo Paris-Normandie)
After the bombing: 1944 (Photo petit Normand)
38 (Photo Leblanc)
interviewHenry Decaëns is an historian and vice-president of the Tourist Office of Rouen-Normandy. He has also written many history books about the Mont-Saint- Michel, Rouen and Normandy*. July 1952: Inauguration * His monograph on Rouen, Ouest-France editions (November 2007, 32 pages, of the Pont Corneille. (Photo Jean Vavasseur, Paris-Normandie) 5,50 €), is available at the Tourist Office.
The editor: With the Armada and the completely reno- vated waterfronts, Rouen seems to be at one again with the river Seine. What influence does the river have on The editor: Why was that? the capital of Normandy? Henry Decaëns: The port of Rouen is influenced both by the sea and by the river. It has always played a major Henry Decaëns: Rouen could not exist without the role in the French economy. But in the period after the Seine. The city grew up around the port, which has Second World War the town turned its back on the always played a leading role in its development. This Seine because everything was so badly damaged by the was illustrated in the posters published in the thirties by bombings and the riverside districts were completely the Syndicat d’initiative to promote the city. Le Havre, destroyed. Dieppe and Evreux were all shown as satellites of Rouen. These were all rebuilt to redevelop the harbour activity in the centre of Rouen. The banks were raised to let smaller ships go upstream as far as the port of Gennevilliers. But the elevated quays put a barrier bet- ween Rouen and the river and it was only in the nine- ties that Rouen recognised the need to regenerate the Seine riverside.
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39 One hundred years in Rouen
The editor: Rouen is often referred to as a ‘museum city’. Does this mean that there is no contemporary development? Henry Decaëns: No, it would be a mistake to think that. Even if I am nostalgic for the districts that were destroyed during the second world war, especially the waterfronts either side of the river, personally I like the 50s reconstruction. The well-known rue de l’Épicerie, the Caradas house (a splendid building dating from the 16th century), the Théâtre des Arts built in the 19th century and the district Henri IV with its bars have all been replaced by modern high quality constructions like the Galeries October 1977: Louis Arretche Lafayette at the corner of the rue Grand Pont and the during the construction rue Général Leclerc, or the Hôtel du Département on of ‘his church,’ place du Vieux-Marché the left bank. The Place du Vieux Marché (old market (Photo agence Arretche) place) with the Joan of Arc church is an excellent example of how the marriage of past and contempo- rary architecture can work. ■
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BargainRêver hunting with ‘prestige’ In 2008 the third edition of the Rouen ‘International Antique Experts Fair’ will take place from November 27th until December 1st in the Rouen Exhibition Centre. About sixty selected exhibitors and a panel of recognised experts will be available to the public, experienced lecturers and guided visits will all guarantee the quality of this traditional Rouen event.
‘ he fair was a major interna- For Rouen it is a ‘must’ event. discover the exhibits as presented by tional event until 1998,’ Rouen is perfectly at home with the an expert. T explains Dorothée Balland, latest trends and styles in the world There is also an art gallery for visi- exhibition commissioner from the of fashion and has a good idea what tors looking for contemporary Committee for the Organisation of tomorrow’s trends will be: ‘Today pieces by recognised artists from Economic events in Rouen people are more focused on contempo- France and abroad. All very helpful (Comet). rary art and design,’ explains for those seeking to match the ‘The fair originally incorporated both Dorothée Balland. antique with the modern. ■ antiques and bric à brac, but we had As for interior design it seems that to interrupt the Fair for a while until anything goes. the Zénith was completed and during Dorothée Balland says: ‘The exhibi- Rouen Exhibition Centre : that time the market underwent tion reflects trends in today’s market. Avenue des Canadiens, Grand-Quevilly, many changes’. Visitors want to mix contemporary to the south of Rouen direct access But it is no accident that such a pieces with antique furniture. People from the A13. Entrance fee: 9 € (free major antiques event takes place in no longer follow fashion. Everyone under 12), free parking. Refreshments. Rouen. today has their own style. On the For historical and geographical rea- other hand there are so many sons, Rouen has always been a copies, counterfeits and so on that major player in international trade it makes it really difficult for people and her economy has always been to be sure that a piece they buy is open to overseas influences. genuine. We will have four well- Since the kingdom of Normandy- known experts from different sectors Sicily (from 1060 to 1189) and the on hand during the exhibition. They conquest of England by William will give advice and information to the Conqueror in 1066, up to the buyers and they will guarantee the present day and the international authenticity of the pieces on offer’. Armada event, Rouen has always The prestige label ensures that the been in close contact with the rest exhibition takes special care of its of the world. visitors-buyers. A programme of Rouen houses the second largest conferences and guided visits is orga- area of antique dealers of France in nised two or three times a day for the Damiette-Saint-Maclou dis- small groups. This is a personalised trict. and no-risk way to visit the Fair and
2042 43 More bargain hunting Other important dates for antique dealers open their doors The next event will be held from antiques in Rouen. to visitors. the 12th to 14th September 2008 For the last 14 years in In addition, two other events - in the Exhibition Centre. September, about 70,000 visitors ‘Les Puces Rouennaises’ or flea come to the antique dealers markets - are held in January and district located near the rue September although these are Damiette for the event ‘Art more bric à brac than antique d’exception’ when 25 Rouen fairs.
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Rêver
A24 day heuresin the life of a very sp
Aline Derlot and her team-mates are training for the 45th edition of the Rouen 24 hours international motonautique marathon. This article was written before the event but our ‘special woman’ was already getting ready for the race.
‘ am afraid of water,’ she told us but Aline Derlot didn’t hesitate one moment before throwing I herself into this new challenge. This dynamic young lady is an experienced ‘pilot’. She already manages a business (director of the Printemps store in Rouen)’, but had little experience at the helm of a speedboat. ‘I have never done speed boat racing before,’ she admits, ‘but I like a challenge and I like to see how far I can go. On May 1st, I won’t have a choice, I mean I will have to get up to speeds of 110 kilometres per hour on the Seine and keep going for 24 hours - but that’s OK. I like mechanical sports and when a friend suggested that I do this I was keen enough to get up an all-girl team for the 2008 edition of the 24 hours.’ So the dashing director got together with her daughter, a business school student, a colleague working in the beauty department and another friend. The four ‘special (Photo A. Bertereau) women’ will each take turns during the 24-hour race, fashion brands for women. We want to emphasise the femi- changing over every hour or every hour and a quarter. nisation of this sport and get some media coverage. It is ‘Piloting at night is a headache,’ confesses courageous important to get the publicity as it is amazing to think Aline. ‘Fifty boats are taking part in the race and our boat of us girls in the driver’s seat of these racing boats, we is sponsored by “Printemps” store and some well-known will be piloting a 850 m3 boat, the top category. Formula 2000 is the one reserved for professionals.’ Aline Derlot is confident: ‘People imagine that falling into water is not as dangerous as coming off onto the ground, they think that water will break your fall, but at this speed the risks are the same.’ The risks of take-off >
4620 y special woman
47 have been reduced but the threat of being plunged into the water is always there, it is something we have to Spirit of endurance think about.’ Yet the search for strong sensations overcomes all fears. ‘The combination of water and engines is exciting. Speed 2008 will be the forty-fifth edition of the Rouen is heady. Driving at speed on the water is a bit like driving 24 hours international motonautique race. The race was first held in 1964. It will take place a motorbike.’ Aline Derlot would like to master the from 30th April at 4 pm to 1st May at 4 pm. The engine and get the best out of her motor. This iron boats race round Lacroix island on the river maiden may be afraid of water but where there is a will Seine right in the heart of the city. The winner is there is a way. ■ the boat which completes the highest number of laps in 24 hours. This event is part of the speedboat endurance world championship programme.
The race is divided into three categories. The winners on average do more than three thousand kilometres, i.e. about 850 laps. Every year the ‘The combination of event attracts more than 400,000 spectators on water and engines is the bridges and quays of the town. The 2007 edition was won by Christophe Boyard, Xavier exciting.’ Savin and Cédric Deguisne, from the Vauban Humanis Team.
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Women’s rugby
50 French people call France the hexagon but for the 2007 Rugby World Cup, France became ‘oval’ as rugby fever hit the country. The competition saw the South African team winning the William Webb Ellis Trophy. The name of the trophy is English, but the game comes from a pretty rough sport with French origins: the ‘soule’ or ‘choule’ as it is pronounced in Normandy. Whatever the origin, English or Norman, today this sport is played by women as well as men.
pparently it was the famous calendar called ‘Dieux du Stade’ where every month a different A French national player tastefully posed in the nude that encouraged women to get involved in this the sport of gentlemen. ‘Nobody thinks of rugby as a sport for women,’ explains Karl Janick, the manager of Women’s Rugby in the Association sportive du Rouen Université Club (Asruc). ‘People used to think that it was not good for women’s health. Yet in women’s rugby there is very little injury, except perhaps bruising, because women always abide by the rules and never argue with the referee.’
A feminine achievement. William the Conqueror imported the ‘choule’ to England, its successor rugby came back to Le Havre several centuries later in 1872. Then the oval ball hit Rouen but the first all-girl team started only in the third millennium. ‘The club only has 32 members,’ says Karl Janick, ‘but the team has been competing in university competi- tion for the last six years. In 2004, they trained for the Rugby Federation championship. In 2006, the girls team reached the Federation’s third division, won all the pool matches and got as far as the semi-finals and since 2007 the team is in the second division.’ You have to like contact and be tough to play rugby. >
515 ‘Our girls have often played basket ball, he played First Division rugby for the ‘Today I have such fun with women’s judo or hand-ball,’ explains Karl club between 1981 and 1995. rugby as here in France it is an amateur Janick. ‘You can become a good player In 1996 he joined the University as sport so there is a lot less pressure.’ ■ in six months.’ games master (EPS) in the University And the coach knows his job. Karl of Sport Sciences at Mont-Saint- Janick comes from Toulouse where Aignan.
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Focus on fine food
‘SEND IN THE DESSERT!’ rings out the cry at the end of a meal
54 Masterclass
The Nymphéas is one of the oldest starred- restaurants in Rouen. The chef, Patrice Kukurudz, received one Michelin star in 1993 but that did not change his approach. He remains as open to new tastes and is as creative as ever, producing delicious dishes for us to enjoy.
s soon as you walk into the Nymphéas you feel something special, something light and fresh A that is hard to place. Then you realise that it is just that extraordinary feeling you get when you are in Normandy. Patrice Kukurudz’s restaurant is in a listed 16th cen- tury building not far from Pierre Corneille’s birthplace. is a bit like producing a play but one where you don’t The name, les Nymphéas, is in homage to Claude know the actors.’ Monet’s famous paintings of the water lilies in the In this sort of production nothing can be left to chance pond at the painter’s Normandy home. and there is no room for improvisation. Says Kukurudz: These huge paintings are now on display in the ‘I really just want to do my best and let people enjoy them- Orangerie Museum in Paris. selves. That’s why I am always here in the restaurant.’ For him, when a customer comes to his restaurant it Kukurudz says: ‘When I visited the Giverny gardens I must be a unique moment, which will be totally was really inspired and so I decided to open the Nymphéas ‘ ’. The minute the customer steps into the at the end of 1991.’ It was not the first time that his unforgettable culinary genius had been put to the test; between 1978 restaurant they should feel comfortable and wanted; and 1991 Patrice Kukurudz was already in the red the service should be warm yet discreet. These things Michelin guide for his restaurant ‘Saint-Pierre’ in La are really important and Madame Kukurudz oversees Bouille. this side of the business. Patrice Kukurudz sums up: ‘ .’ Today he thinks that ‘Les Nymphéas’ is a respected and My job is all about selling little moments of happiness well-known address in Rouen. Les Nymphéas ■ ‘We have all sorts of clients: business people, families, local 7-9 rue de la Pie and foreign customers that is the way it should be in a res- Tel. : 00 33 2 35 89 26 69 taurant.’ A sort of culinary democracy, says Kukurudz who goes on to explain his need to talk to customers Open every evening from Tuesday to Saturday and be sure they are happy. ‘I feel happiest when the restaurant is full and the team in the kitchen is ready to go. A restaurant is a living thing, it
55 If you are looking for inspiration… The perfect blend of traditional takes analysis, research, reading like this town, it is important to cuisine and today’s trends: the and creativity.’ live in a place that has a past.’ Chef’s signature dish of duck foie gras seared in a cider vinegar Patrice also seeks out and selects The Chef has created a ‘neo- sauce or his lobster stew with the best suppliers: ducks from classical’ cuisine-style that is all sauternes and, of course, the Cécile Boiteau in Aneville- his own. Kukurudz says that, like delicious duck ‘à la rouennaise’ Ambourville and fish directly that other French master chef and the apple soufflé with supplied from Dieppe. Joel Rebuchon, he has merely calvados. Modestly the Chef says: taken traditional dishes and ‘I just get the best out of local Kukurudz was born in Picardy, revisited them. Tradition remains products’. These are real classic came to Rouen in 1978 and fell in all-important and he admits that recipes on the menu that we love with the region. ‘I feel at his favourite reference is the change two or three times a year. home here, I like the green fields French cooking bible: Auguste ‘I like to create new dishes: that and the Norman bocage. I really Escoffier.
56 … A feast of flavour!
Les Capucines, one of the (very) good addresses on the left bank, a favourite haunt of businessmen during the week and locals at weekends. The chef, Thierry Demoget, says he likes to adapt recipes and he too has succeeded in adding a very personal touch to ‘traditional’ Normandy cuisine.
hierry Demoget’s cuisine is all about flavours. For him the art lies in sensitivity and precision. T Cooking should be a little exotic but it should be discreet and barely discernible, like a stolen glance, a touch of colour. If you don’t believe this, it is probably because your Thierry respects traditional Normandy gastronomic taste buds have never experienced the taste of prime cuisine, even if he has been cleverly giving it a new look shellfish from Brittany with a touch of wasabi, the since 1985 when he started with his father. tangy green Japanese horseradish. He knows the traditional products inside out, products Imagine lamb delicately prepared with saffron, a pear that have always been used in Les Capucines, a restau- seasoned with Szechwan pepper or a spicy ‘pain perdu’ rant founded by his grandfather. with rum or peanut ice cream! ‘I like a hint of the unex- Thierry explains: ‘It is a family business. After a career as pected, the exotic, and personally I need to be different,’ chef on cargo ships, then as sauce chef at La Couronne, my declares Demoget. grandfather bought what was then a café-brasserie in 1957 and completely transformed it.’ Thierry’s father took over in 1970. ‘It was then that Les Capucines earned itself a reputation as a gourmet restau- rant.’ Now, at 43, Thierry Demoget is a self-made man, he learned his craft in situ: ‘I grew up in a restaurant, I learned and taught myself over the years, although, of course, I also had some formal training.’ Demoget’s dishes all have a character like their creator. He cooks with care, respecting local products while adding a distinctive touch. For example: duck à la rouennaise, lobster salad with balsamic vinegar, apple symphony, or his sumptuous game with chocolate sauce. ‘I want to enjoy myself in the kitchen and for my clients to enjoy my food. It is a fantastic job, you not only get to express yourself but you also spread a little happiness on the way!’ ■
Les Capucines 16 rue Jean-Macé 76140 Petit-Quevilly Tel. : 00 33 2 35 72 62 34 Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday for both lunch and dinner, Saturday evenings, Sunday lunchtimes.
2058 59 Sacrées Cook-ins! The chef’s wife Corinne also has a Monday in the month, Thierry culinary arts. ‘It’s a bit like a role to play at Les Capucines shares tips and recipes and shows Tupperware meeting,’ jokes the ‘She’s very good at getting the the participants, mostly women, chef, ‘so we call these workshops customers to try new dishes,’ how to impress their guests with the Cook-ins.’ explains Thierry Demoget. unexpected dishes like lemon pie Sessions are held at Lanef’s But she’s not the only one. The served in a glass. cookery showroom in Deville-lès- chef himself likes to share things And one evening every two Rouen. and once a month he organises a months, Thierry does the same special practical cooking but this time to a group of 10 to 14 For information phone: workshop. In sessions held one men, all eager to learn the 00 33 2 32 10 74 74.
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Apples, apples and more yet more apples
At Cider Pompon’s shop you can buy apple juice, calvados jelly, jams and more. You can also buy calvados bottled in Darnetal but That’s Ponpon! produced in Beuzeville by Lilian imes are hard but where's there’s a are not crushed; otherwise the cider will be Toutain. will there's a way we will hang on! bitter. Next they are placed in a hydraulic The shop will also give you lots of good ideas for presents and has a T says François Pontreué, owner of press and the juice is then filtered through range of local products: Jumièges Ponpon cider. muslin, leaving the pulp behind. Pontreué, a ‘bon viveur’, is strongly opposed cookies, foie gras from Fontaine- Cider producers have always practised sous-Préaux - all beautifully gift both to today’s attitude of looking for a stan- sustainable development and what is left wrapped. dard taste and to the cowboys of the gastro- over after the cider has been produced is Ponpon refuses to sell its products nomic world. fed to livestock. The juice is kept in open to supermarket chains but you can According to him, there is a huge increase stainless steel or glass fibre vats. Settling is find them at the cidery: 20 route in raw materials that have little or no taste de Lyons, Darnetal, or at the and good products like cider are now dif- a natural process and after ten days or so a brown layer appears and is removed. The grocery, Place de l’église in ficult to find. ‘We are the last cider makers Bihorel, and in certain fine food remaining juice is poured into new vats. The in Rouen,’ declares Pontreué. stores. Cider making is an art. ‘Choosing the vats are filled right to the top so that the air apples is a very important part of the process. cannot get in and turn the liquid into vine- Ours come from Haute-Normandie and we gar. prefer those that are grown on the plateau to Fermentation takes between 30 to 40 those that come from low-lying farms, which days. It is a completely natural process, tend to give out more water. Every year bet- says Pontreué. ween September and November we buy about ‘It is very straightforward: the quality of the 150 tons and transform them at once.’ cider depends first on the apples and then on Cider Ponpon is produced in Darnetal in the skill of the cider-maker.’ And for that the traditional way and is free of addi- tives. François Pontreué is very strict we can trust François Pontreué. ■ about this. ‘Our cider is a living product, Cidrerie Ponpon every barrel is different. You either like it or 20 route de Lyons, Darnétal you don’t.’ Tel : 00 33 2 32 12 03 02 The apples are washed and placed in an Open everyday except Sunday from 9 electric mixer. It is important that the pips to 12am and 2 to 7pm.
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Auzou master chocolate maker!
hen Jean-Michel Auzou was young, his neigh- bour was a pastry chef and that is perhaps W where his love of chocolate comes from. It is easy to imagine the young Jean-Michel, on tiptoes, looking over the fence, his mouth watering as he wat- ched his neighbour working the chocolate. He says that today the shop is in a really good location Another local chocolate fan Marcel Duchamp, produ- but, looking back, this part of the Rue du Gros ced the famous ‘Chocolate Mill ’ in 1912 and today, co- Horldoge was nowhere near as busy as it is now. coincidentally, Auzou’s shop in the rue Gros Horloge is The maître-chocolatier has opened other stores in Le just a few steps away from the place where Duchamp Havre and Val de Reuil. ‘Auzou chocolates are only sold depicted that machine. in Auzou shops,’ says Auzou who is dedicated to main- Auzou has a lot to thank his neighbour for. It was him taining high quality and whose chocolates are made who helped the young man find an apprenticeship in from 100% cocoa butter. Saint Quentin in the Aisne when he was 14. Then Auzou He is vice-president of the Artisans Chocolatiers de worked in Paris in famous houses like ‘Le Nostre’ before France, which represents about 3,000 shops in France but finally going to the international school of chocolate which incredibly accounts for only 8% of the French cho- makers (COBA) in Basel, Switzerland - the chocolate colate sales. world’s equivalent of Mecca. Auzou regularly visits the cocoa bean producing coun- Jean-Michel then travelled through Europe before ope- tries to meet the cocoa planters. ‘I often go to Sao Tomé, ning his first shop in 1970 in Evreux, followed by one in in Equator, to the Ivory Coast which is the major produ- Rouen in 1980. cer of beans, to Madagascar, Brazil, Indonesia and so on.’ He is also actively engaged in the development of fair trade, creating a ‘quality network’. His idea is to develop the transformation of the beans into cocoa paste on site, enabling the planters to earn more (10 tons of beans = 1 ton of paste) thereby guaranteeing the best quality beans and paste for the artisan-buyers. ‘Travelling so much for the business has given me lots of happy memories,’ says Jean-Michel Auzou who will now have the time to travel for pleasure as his 35-year-old daughter Sonia, chef chocolate maker in her turn, is ready to take over the business. ■
Chez Auzou 163 rue du Gros-Horloge tel : 00 33 2 35 70 59 31 www.auzou-chocolat.fr Open all year except on Sunday afternoons and Monday mornings.
64 Grandmother Auzou’s macaroons A macaroon is always round, prepared with egg white, sugar and macaroons with a cup of chocolate in the afternoon,’ he explained. almonds from Spain or from Provence. It is one of Auzou’s Nowadays there is a wide range of different flavours. ‘We now make specialities. His macaroons are hand-made in the traditional way. 18 different sweet flavours and recently we launched a line of ‘ I have been making macaroons since 1961, but I only ever used to savoury macaroons with flavours like aubergine caviar, foie gras make vanilla and chocolate ones. Later I added fruit flavours like and apple Tatin, salmon with dill and blue cheese.’ raspberry.’ Then in 1998/99 Jean-Michel Auzou decided to dedicate his His advice: ‘A macaroon must be soft, kept at room macaroons to the memory of his maternal grandmother and gave temperature and eaten within three days. They are best them the title Grandmother Auzou’s Macaroons. ‘When I was enjoyed with a cup of tea or coffee or served as a dessert young, during the holidays she used to give me some of her small with ice cream and whipped cream.’
65 For an unforgettable weekend
takeOften we only a really getbreak to know a town at the inend of our Rouen stay - but why leave things to the last minute? Let Rouen Tourist Office show you how to get the best out of Rouen. Our unforgettable Rouen weekend breaks are a pure delight.
66 (Photo Torben-Fotolia.com) Learn to cook like a master chef How do they do it!! Rouen’s master chefs, some of whom the Saint-Marc market to learn how have Michelin stars, and find out just important it is to choose and buy It is easy to think that master chefs how to cook traditional Rouen and fresh produce - all under the eagle never have any problems especially Normandy recipes. eyes of one of our experienced chefs. when a simple recipe goes horribly The Tourist Office has put together a This weekend break is available all wrong. really exciting and delicious weekend year round (except from June 25th to Well, now you can get to meet one of programme. On Saturday morning July 16th, 2008). one of fifteen selected chefs, all Reservation: at least 8 days before. members of the ‘Toques Rouennaises’ association will meet you. He will demonstrate several traditional The package* includes: dishes before helping you get to grips • Two nights in a city centre hotel, breakfast with the recipes. By the end of the and taxes included lesson you will be able to make some • The cooking lesson (preparation, cooking, delicious dishes yourself and you will tasting and all drinks included) with a chef discover that French cooking can be selected from the members of the Rouen as easy as pie! Then comes the hard Toques Association part when you will taste the dishes • One pass for 3 Rouen museums (Fine Arts, and learn about the best wines to Ceramics, Ironwork) accompany them! • Administrative fees On Sunday you will have some free * Prices from 179 € per person. time to take in one of the great
(Photo Office de Tourisme de Rouen) de Tourisme (Photo Office museums in Rouen before heading for
Learn to paint ... like an Impressionist The cathedral is both a religious which houses a large collection of building as well as an urban Impressionist paintings (Pissarro, monument located in the old town of Renoir, Cézanne, Monet) as well as Rouen at the crossroads of the two paintings by other famous artists such oldest streets in the very heart of the as Velazquez, Delacroix, Modigliani historic city centre. and Duchamp. With the help of a trained artist Finally enjoy an Impressionist-theme de Rouen) de Tourisme (Photo Office n discover Claude Monet’s secrets, dinner in a prestigious Rouen understand the techniques used by restaurant run by one of the chefs The package* includes: the Impressionist and find out just from the Toques Rouennaises • Two nights in a city centre hotel, breakfast how he depicted the changing Association. The dinner will be and taxes included Normandy light. inspired by Monet’s cookbooks. • 1 painting workshop (equipment and course Claude Monet made a careful study of The evening will end at the cathedral included) the cathedral between 1880 and 1890 with the amazing light show ‘From • 1 ‘Impressionist’ dinner inspired by Claude in a series of 28 portraits of the Monet to Pixels’. western façade. You will visit the Programme available all year round Monet’s cookbook in one of Rouen’s best res- Georges-d’Amboise room, on the first (except from June 25th to July 16th, taurants (drinks included) floor of the Tourist Office, which is 2008). • One pass for 3 Rouen museums (Fine Arts, where Monet sat to complete this Reservation required at least 8 days Ceramics, Ironworks) major work. before. • Administrative fees Then a visit to the Fine Arts Museum * Prices from 189 € per person.
67 For an unforgettable weekend In the pink on or off the green Overworked and under pressure? Continue your stress free programme Why not get away from it all and with a stroll through the antique enjoy a relaxing weekend break! Play shops along the Rue Damiette in a little golf on the some of the most Rouen before enjoying a romantic beautiful courses in Normandy and candlelight dinner. then chill out in one of our elegant saunas and wellness centres. Programme available all year round (except from June 25th to July 16th, 2008).
Reservation: at least 8 days before. de Rouen) de Tourisme (Photo Office All you can eat seafood buffet dinner (drinks The package* includes: included). • Two nights in a city centre hotel, breakfast One entrance to the Fine Arts Museum of and taxes included Rouen. • A round on an 18 hole course for one and /or Administrative fees. one wellness session for the second person in a three star hotel with our aqua tonic formula (sea * Prices from 199 € per person. water hydro massage bath with marine salts, shower jets with relaxation programme for the back and legs), free access to Turkish baths and sauna; in a two star hotel, steam + scrubbing + relaxation massage with essential oils). (Photo Office de Tourisme de Rouen) de Tourisme (Photo Office
Antiques galore
Just a short hop across the channel Programme available all year round Rouen is the ideal place to hunt for (except from June 25th to July 16th, antiques! 2008). We are sure that you will find what you are looking for in Rouen in the The package* includes: antiques quarter around the rue • Two nights in a city centre hotel, breakfast Damiette and the Saint-Maclou and taxes included church. • A lecture in fine arts Here, tucked away in the picturesque • Evening gourmet dinner in a selected Rouen cobbled streets and medieval houses restaurant (drinks included) you will find pottery, paintings, • One pass for 3 Rouen museums (Fine Arts, bookbinders, upholsterers, sculptors Ceramics, Ironworks) and many more. • Administrative fees A traditional Rouen craftsman will be * Prices from 179 € per person. your guide and will help you to better understand the skills and the techniques needed to restore antiques. In the evening enjoy a sumptuous dinner in La Couronne, France’s
(Photo Office de Tourisme de Rouen) de Tourisme (Photo Office oldest inn.
68
Hermès fragrances are designed and produced exclusively in-house from the preparation of the basic components to the finished product.
The heart of Hermès, fragrances in Normandy
Hermès fragrances is based in Le Vaudreuil, Eure, about thirty kilometres south of Rouen. The plant supplies the 252 Hermès stores, including the one in Rouen, which you will find just by the cathedral.
ith a name like Hermès it is not surprising that In 1961, a second successful perfume ‘Calèche’ confir- the company earned a reputation for its divine med the fine ‘nose’ of Le Vaudreuil workshop. Guy W designs. Hermès was founded in 1837 in Paris Robert created the scent and it was the first creation to by harness-maker, Thierry Hermès, who supplied sad- come out of Le Vaudreuil. Its success confirmed dles and harnesses to the international aristocracy. Hermès as one of the great houses of contemporary In 1918, with the arrival of the motorcar, the brand perfumes. launched a line of fine leather goods and luggage. Nine years later, Guy Robert created ‘Equipage’, the first Hermès extended its products to fashion, jewellery, Hermès fragrance for men. Since then other creations luxury items including silk scarves and, of course, per- have all contributed to the firm’s success and confirm fume. its position as a major player in the fragrance industry. In 2004, Jean-Claude Ellena became the exclusive in- Normandy is in the air. house perfumer at Hermès. Hermès established its perfume production unit in Le He describes his latest creation for men: ‘Terre d’Hermès’ Vaudreuil in 1951. as ‘A full bodied fragrance with all the freshness of orange, The first fragrance is a classic of the French perfume the acidity of grapefruit, the hotness of pepper, the perfume industry: ‘L’eau d’Hermès’. This perfume was created by of aldehyde, the earthiness of vetiver and just a touch of Edmond Roudnitska and Émile Hermès (the third of bitter patchouli but with all the depth and richness of that name) and its success opened up new directions for Atlas cedar.’ the company. Ellena’s work is now focused around the 3 signature
70 ranges of the Hermès brand: the classic Hermès fragrances: the Jardins or ‘Garden’ line which the com- pany describes as fragrances that are as significant to perfume as Impressionism is to painting. The latest garden is ‘Jardin après la mousson’. Finally the ‘perfumed poetry’ of the Hermessence col- lection which come in leather-sheathed designer bot- tles, all also manufactured in Le Vaudreuil. ■ • Hermès at Rouen 11 rue du Change.
The production unit of Hermès Perfumes and fragrances, Le Vaudreuil, Eure. The Company employs 6,825 people worldwide but remains committed to the savoir-faire of local craftsmen.
Rouensur mer In 2003, the Hermès ‘Rouen sur mer’ silk scarf design was produ- ced to pay homage to the city; its few grams of pure natural silk depict images from the Seine valley. This square scarf was designed by the artist Joachim Metz and in this limited series Rouen stands alongside other exclusive towns honou- red in the collection such as Monaco. Joachim Metz is also the author of other Hermès scarf designs: ‘Les Perroquets’ (1984), ‘Carpe Diem’ (1994), ‘Automobile’ (1996), or ‘L’Or des Chefs’ (1997). All Hermès scarves are woven in Isère and prin- ted in Lyon. Price: 265 €.
71 The big sleep Raymond Chandler wrote ‘The Big Sleep’. Written in 1939 it was his first novel and it introduced the character Philip Marlowe, that cult Californian private detective. ‘I was the sharpest dressed detective around and I had a appointment with four million dollars,’ writes Marlowe … As for us, we have an appointment with nine hotels.
Le Vieux Marché
72 Hôtel de la cathédrale, 2 stars Tucked away in a small pedestrianised street in the heart of Rouen’s historic centre, this delightful Norman style hotel has a splendid timber-frame façade dating back to the 17th century. A comfortable hotel, with rooms looking out onto the cathedral; the inner courtyard with its many flowers has an English tearoom atmosphere.
12 rue Saint-Romain - 76000 Rouen 00 33 2 35 71 57 95 www.hotel-de-la-cathedrale.fr contact@hotel-de-la-cathedrale 26 rooms incl: 20 double, 3 triple and 3 quadruple.
73 Hôtel Andersen, 1 star
This family run hotel was built in the 19th century. Carefully designed with guests’ comfort a priority, the hotel is centrally placed, 3 minutes from the station and just ten minutes walk from the cathedral.
Hôtel Andersen 4 rue Pouchet 76 000 Rouen 00 33 2 35 71 88 51 www.hotelandersen.com [email protected] 15 rooms including 9 double and 6 single No parking: the nearest is the station carpark. Hôtel Eden, 2 sTARS The comfortable and well-appointed modern hotel is just 5 km north of Rouen. The hotel has a swimming pool with golf and horse riding nearby
Hôtel Eden Rue Gustave-Eiffel 76230 Bois-Guillaume 00 33 2 35 59 97 97 www.eden-hotel.fr [email protected] 68 rooms twin and double DR
74 Manoir de Villers The Manoir du Villers is 17 km from Rouen, near Sahurs. The Seine runs through the bottom of the park and the pretty riverside town of La Bouille and Saint-Georges-de-Boscherville abbey are both close by. Owned by the de Bellegarde family since 1764, the manor buildings are all listed and date from the 16th and 19th centuries. The 18th century furniture adds to the historical atmosphere and makes this the perfect place for a quiet stay.
Manoir de Villers - ‘Jardin remarquable’ Label - ‘Normandie Qualité Tourisme’ Label 30 route de Sahurs 76113 St-Pierre-de-Manneville - 00 33 2 35 32 07 02 www.manoirdevillers.com - [email protected] Two big rooms of 50 m2 with bathroom, toilets and dressing room. Free parking Visits all year round for groups on request and from April to end of October including week-ends and bank holidays. The park is open to public from 1st of May to 30th of September except Thursdays and Fridays.
75 Jardin de la Muette
The Jardin de la Muette, 8 km Jardin de la Muette outside Rouen. 5 bedrooms Open every day from March 21 to december 19. Once a staging post this 18th century 1057 rue des Bosquets 76230 Isneauville Norman pressoir has been 00 33 2 35 60 57 69 completely renovated. Set in a www.charmance-lamuette.com spacious park the property is [email protected] bordered by forests. Breakfast included with our homemade brioches, The grounds are delightfully jams and bread picturesque with horses grazing peacefully in the paddocks.
76
Novotel, 3 stars
You will appreciate the relaxed atmosphere of the Novotel. Situated on the edge of the city the Novotel is the ideal place for a family stay as it offers excellent leisure facilities including an outdoor swimming pool, two tennis courts and a garden The Novotel is conveniently placed for the Zenith congress and entertainment centre, the Madrillet technopole and the St Etienne forest. The hotel restaurant offers French and International cuisine.
Novotel Rue de la mare-aux-sangsues 76800 Saint-Étienne-du-Rouvray 00 33 2 32 91 76 76 www.novotel.com [email protected] 134 rooms for one, two or three persons, Le Vieux-Marché, 3 étoiles including 2 rooms for people with reduced This hotel is right in the heart of the historic city centre in the street where the mobility. famous poet Pierre Corneille was born just off the market square where the English sent Joan of Arc to her death. The hotel has 3 stars and a distinctive British-style atmosphere with its rich furnishings and wooden panelling.
Le Vieux-Marché 15 rue de la Pie 76000 Rouen 00 33 2 35 71 00 88 www.hotelduvieuxmarche.com [email protected] 48 rooms including 2 single rooms and 2 large rooms. DR
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‘The Leaning House’
This delightful half-timbered house is just opposite Saint Maclou Church and is Rouen’s equivalent of the leaning Tower of Pisa. This charming guest houses is run by Madame Cotel who pays special attention to small details. The linen embroidered sheets, the home made jams and the delightful old fashioned tableware that she finds in bric à brac and antique shops all add to the quaint charm of this delightful establishment.
La Maison qui penche 4 place Barthélémy 76000 Rouen 00 33 2 35 15 92 58 3 rooms with private entrance, 2 rooms of 35 m2 and 1 room of 24 m2.
80 Château de Belmesnil Saint-Denis-le-Thiboult.This char- ming 18th century chateau is set in the green meadows of the Normandy countryside. The combi- nation of modernity and tradition is in perfect harmony and offers visi- tors premium comfort.
Château de Belmesnil For receptions or seminars. Route du Château 76116 Saint-Denis-le-Thiboult Tel : 00 33 2 35 02 76 50 [email protected] [email protected] www.belmesnil.com
81
Lunch
Whatever you are looking for: bistro, brasserie, exotic or chic and trendy, there is a wide range of good restaurants in Rouen. Let’s take a closer look at four restaurants that are all good value for money and all good choices for a lunch date.
‘Chez Nous’ Offering excellent home-style cuisine
ne of the most Chez nous attractive terraces 234 rue de Martainville O for outdoor lunches 00 33 2 35 89 50 02 in Rouen. 42 settings indoor + 16 on Situated in the old quarter terrace opposite the beautiful Open from Tuesday to Saturday flamboyant gothic Saint for lunch and dinner Maclou Church. ‘Chez nous’ offers traditio- nal French cuisine with a fresh twist. Their signature dishes include: pastilla of Neufchâtel, fillet of cod with raspberry and Norman crumble. This is a small and highly popular restaurant so reser- vation is advised.
83 Lunch ‘Brasserie Paul’ Longstanding favourite with Rouen diners
he five chefs who work chez ‘Paul’ all T go to the Alain Ducasse cooking school in Argenteuil once a year to perfect their knowledge and the art of making Olivier’s Cheese Emporium, simple, delicious dishes. wines from Pierre Noble). The apple and Philippe Coudy and Nabil Camembert turnover, Cherabier have been run- duck pâté or veal head in ning this busy Bistro, sauce gribiche are all plain popular with theatre and traditional dishes that are operagoers, since 1992. served to perfection. Brasserie Paul is the ideal address for lovers of good food and local produce (cider from the Pays de Bray, snails, cheeses from
Brasserie Paul 1 place de la Cathédrale 00 33 2 35 71 86 07 Seating for 100 in the dining room + 20 seats in the small lounge Seating for 80 on the terrace with fan- tastic cathedral views Open 7 days a week, all year round, for lunch and dinner.
84 ʻ e Jardin de Chine’ is light with delicate steam- one of the most cooked raviolis and fish L popular Asian res- and rich with roasted ‘Jardin taurants in Rouen. suckling pig and ducks. The chef Phane Hong is Flavours are varied, dishes Cantonese born in are sweet, sour and spicy Cambodia and his wife and this Rouen based Monikhim Hong is from Asian haven is the perfect de Laos. They got married in place to discover the Paris and the cuisine of delights of the East. this Asian gourmet ‘gar- den’ is particularly inven- Chine’ tive and varied. The ravioli soup, pan-fried bream, lobster with ginger For a taste or Cantonese duck are prepared according to old of the Orient Cantonese recipes slightly adapted to suit Western tastes. In the South China region of Canton food is
Le Jardin de Chine 36 rue Percière 00 33 2 35 89 72 07 Seating for 62 Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.
85 Lunch ‘Le Sixième sens’
The owner Pierre Guéret has taken care to marry history and good food in these exceptional surroun- dings
hy do we go out to eat? W If ever you have asked yourself this ques- tion this is the ideal place to find the answer. The menu here is original yet chic. Try the red butter cagouilles (snails) or vanilla quail filet. Diners will appreciate the setting under the magnificent 18th century vaulted cei- ling of this building that was to have been the Town Hall until Louis used the money to wage war on the English.
Le Sixième sens 2 rue Thomas-Corneille 00 33 2 35 88 43 97 75 settings Open daily
86
Out and about
‘GET OUT THE OARS!’ The sea is calm, land ahoy .....
Strolling along the
88 When Rouen and the surrounding valleys were one of the main textile producing regions of France, the whirling paddle wheels of the factories and mills dominated the Robec. In the 19th century when the paddles stopped turning, the peace and quiet of nature returned. The former ‘industrial river’ is today a sleepy stream where families from Rouen come for a quiet countryside walk.
tarting from the rue des Petites-eaux-du-Robec enjoy a romantic stroll along the Robec as it bab- S bles along under the overhanging branches of the trees. This area is really charming, just follow the guide...
A delightfully preserved valley. In spite of a period of dense industrialisation the river has nonetheless retained its original country feel. It is what we would today call a perfect example of ‘sustai- nable development’. Before industrialisation, the valley was sparsely populated with many people living in ‘chartreuses’, the name usually used for a convent, but used here for small country isolated houses like the house near the Pannevert Mill. Later, along with the Aubette and Clerette two small rivers nearby, the Robec played a major role in the industrialisation of Rouen. Until the use of steam-dri- ven engines in the factories, all these small streams pro- duced energy and water was diverted to irrigate local orchards and market gardens. All along the riverbank, some of the former factories and mills are still standing and can be seen today.
Kingfisher. The development of steam changed the profile of these former industrial sites and little by little the fauna and the Robec flora have recovered and now the kingfisher has retur- ned to the Robec. If you are lucky you can catch sight of this predator as it skims just above the water. It is a bird much feared by insects and small fish. You will need sharp eyes and hearing to catch this shy bird as it hovers above the water for, in spite of its bright blue feathers, it is difficult to spot. ■
La cathédrale de Rouen mesure 144 mètres sur 61 mètres. Sa façade est la plus large de France. La seule observation de cette façade occidentale permet de lire l’histoire de l’architecture gothique.
895 DR
Youth Hostel
The refurbished Rouen Youth Hostel (4 Sapins) will open in 2009. The new hostel is in a former dyeing factory on the Robec that has been completely renovated. Dating from 1780, it is one of the oldest and most A quick one-hour walking tour interesting buildings from Departure from the rue des Petites-Eaux (below the Darnétal road) Rouen’s industrial past. The red Arrival: Faubourgs de Darnétal (suburbs of Darnétal) brick construction has been given Length of the tour: 2 kilometres Parking further down the rue de l’Abreuvoir a modern extension and the hostel Sites: Former dyeing factory Auvray (future Youth Hostel); former mill of has a capacity of 100 to 120 beds. the Dames de Saint-Amand; bread oven and Pannevert mill; Parc The new youth hostel will be open Fromage (former elasticated thread factory, today the School of all year and will have a direct bus Architecture); Saint-Gilles Mill; Marc-d’Argent Mill; Chartreuse of the link to the centre of Rouen. Rose; and, of course, the kingfishers. Centre d’Histoire sociale Expotec 103 - Moulin Saint Gilles 13, rue Saint Gilles - 76000 Rouen - Tel: 00 33 (0)2 35 08 08 41 DR
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Rouen, going green There are 310 hectares of green space in Rouen with over 18,000 trees, exceptional botanical collections, a hundred play areas and 25 parks or public squares all within the city at the heart of this conurbation of 400,000. These valuable oxygen sources ensure that Rouen is a member of the Villes-Santé section of the World Health Organisation.
Parc Grammont Second largest green space in the town, the Parc Grammont is Rouen’s most recent public garden. In 2010, Rouen’s future mediateque will be built here. Architect Rudy Ricciott’s library will be a glass construction designed to reflect the green of the gardens and so merge perfectly into the park. The building will open onto the park as the park opens onto the city, this world of information will be an inspiration to all. The park has been designed to have something for everyone no matter what their age and interests. Once the Rouen abattoir, the park - designed by landscape gardener Jacqueline Osty - is now a haven of conviviality and creativity, criss-crossed by walkways linking the various playing Parc Grammont areas. Jacqueline has also created a variety of different green Rue Henri-II-Plantagenet spaces so that everyone is sure to find their own little corner of Rouen left bank paradise. Open all year from 8 am to nightfall A small lake with water plants, banks with willow trees, a bridge Surface: 25,000 square metres over the water, an island with five species of willows, various Outdoor theatre / Playgrounds for all ages Ball games field / Roller skating area species of ducks and birds, the fragrance of aquatic mint, an Bowls pitch / Reading spaces urban garden and an environmental window onto contemporary Pond / Parking life.
92 Botanical Garden 114 ter avenue des Martyrs-de-la-Résistance Rouen left riverbank Open all year from 8 am to nightfall Free guided tours for groups upon request, except on Saturday, Sunday and bank holidays (reservation at the ‘Service espaces verts’, 7 rue du Trianon, tel: 02 32 18 21 30) Permanent exhibition on Parks and Gardens of Haute Normandie (pavillon double) Cultural events (in the Orangerie) / Surface area: 84,747 square metres Notable trees: Ginkgo biloba, Parrotia persica, Quercus rubra, Ailanthus altissima, Fagus sylvatica Purpurea, Aesculus hippocasta- num, Pterocarya fraxinifolia, Sequoiadendron Giganteum Playing areas (2 to 12 years old) / Ball game field Boules area / Ping-pong tables Water basin for model boats / Bandstand Roundabout / Statuary / Aviaries Snack and refreshment kiosks / Picnic areas / Public toilets
The Botanical Garden At the south end of the town, this very popular garden is unique in the Rouen conurbation. Families enjoy the green space but the garden has also a scientific role to play in the conservation of vegetal species from the five continents. Each species of the garden has been carefully tagged for easy identification by visitors. The park is both cultural and educational as well as being the perfect place to relax on a sunny day. Children can have fun in the play areas, older visitors will enjoy the peace and quiet as well as the scientific curiosities. The park has been remodelled several times as public taste has changed but in spite of this it has always kept its original function as a botanical garden with living collections and seed banks. It has been a member of the Association of Botanical Gardens of France and French-speaking Countries (JBF) since 2004.
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Rouen for kids
The pedestrian centre of Rouen is ideal for children. The Tourist Office of Rouen, Normandy, has come up with several activities and games encouraging younger visitors to discover and enjoy the town.
‘ ’m Mahou the gargoyle and I have been here since the dawn of time.’ What bet- I ter guide to Rouen than a gargoyle? The gargoyles on the cathedral look so real that the Rouen Tourist Office has chosen one of these strange creatures as a mascot to help visitors and guide young and old to the very heart of the city. Mahou’s little pamphlet will give the visitor insights into the most beautiful monuments in Rouen as well as practical information about museums, swimming-pools and the ice rink plus some good ideas for souvenirs and gifts to take home. Gargoyles have a great sense of fun and Mahou has designed a special treasure hunt game to encourage young explorers to get round the city! For adults the Tourist Office has designed a ‘Tourist rally’ which will give visitors the chance to spot details that you might have missed on your own, like the tiny mermaid on the ‘Portail des libraires’ entrance to the Cathedral.
However you decide to visit the city, whether Heka Agence : Photo on foot or in the little train or horse-drawn carriage, there is so much to see and do. The recently reopened Museum of Natural History with about 800,000 exhibits is highly recommended as the museum is ranked as France’s second museum of Natural History after Paris. ■
• Office de tourisme, 25, place de la cathédrale. Tel : 00 33 2 32 08 32 40
95 A family visit to the museums The Museums of Fine Arts, Ceramics and Le Secq des Tournelles (ironwork) all belong to the town. The aim of a public service is to attract visitors, helping them to discover and appreciate the exhibits. Here in Rouen we have come up with some new ideas to try and make our museums as interesting and attractive as possible to visitors. For children: every year we organise 14 workshops for youngsters. The workshops are run by qualified staff and the maximum number of participants is 15. The programme includes one hour of theory and explanation and one hour of practical activities. During school holidays similar workshops are also organised around both the permanent and temporary exhibitions. Once a month on Sunday afternoons at 4 pm, you can visit a museum and discover the collections as a family. This visit has full commentary delivered by two lecturers, one for adults and one for children (free entrance for under 18s). We also offer theme-based workshops, for example: ‘Splish splash or the representation of water in paintings’ and ‘Flowers, fruit, and vegetal decoration on pottery’.
96
Saint-Marc Square is the place to be on Sunday mornings or Dédé Neufchâtel cheese should be tasted directly The Saint-Marc market has a special atmosphere. It is a from the cow but we think that Dédé is going a bit real mix and we will let you in on the secret. On F too far there!! At the Clos Saint-Marc, there are Sundays in the market you will find the freshest and no cows but is the right place to find this cheese from best produce from all over Normandy. Here in the Normandy’s Bray region. sunshine taste a variety of the best regional specialities This ‘cream’ of cheese is the best of the best according such as ‘saucisson’ or ‘boudin’ or some crusty bread to Dédé. ‘Neufchâtel,’ he says as he raises his glass of baked in a wood-fire oven or what about oysters, white wine, ‘is the father of all cheese. Did you know that apples, strawberries... Neufchâtel was already being produced in the 6th century That’s a taste of paradise, isn’t it Dédé? ■ and that young ladies from the area used to give their lovers cheeses which is why the Neufchâtel is heart-shaped, or so the story goes!’ As early as the 17th century it was being delivered to Paris and even sent to England. Dédé is a fierce supporter of this traditional cheese which is still made in the old-fashioned way with unpasteurised cow’s milk. It is then left to mature and to develop a creamy outer mould. And Dédé is not alone, many Neufchâtel fans come to the place St Marc on Sunday mornings.
98 On Sunday morning, the market in the Place Saint-Marc is the busiest in Rouen. With over two hundred stalls, it is the place to go if you are looking for fresh products and it is the favourite haunt of night birds who are now ready for a late breakfast, not to mention gourmet lovers of fine local fruit, vegetables, fish... the list is endless.
99 Rouen, a modern Divine Comedy
A shopper’s In the morning, when the cobbles shimmer in the sunlight, as people search for bargains in boutiques, when everyone is out and about busy seeing paradise by day what the town’s shops have to offer and when chicly-dressed ladies walk leisurely down the avenues window shopping. Come with Beatrice and take a walk to paradise in the Rouen sun ... Beatrice is everywhere. Everywhere one has to be seen. Let’s go with her as she takes us into the heart of ‘her‘ Rouen on a typical girls’ day out and let’s hope that she doesn’t forget anything. She wants something for the kids, something for her husband, not forgetting a little something for herself....
09 : 06 BREAKFAST IN TOWN Dame Cakes 70 rue Saint-Romain 76000 ROUEN 00 33 2 35 07 49 31
09 : 53 BEAUTY L’Univers du Bien Être Hairdresser, face and body care, hammam, jacuzzi 14-16 rue de la Tour de Beurre ROUEN 00 33 2 35 70 17 84 ou 00 33 2 35 70 26 63
11 : 20 SOMETHING FOR THE CHILDREN Des Choux et des Roses 9 rue Massacre ROUEN 00 33 2 35 07 55 71
100 11 : 59 BARGAIN BASEMENT La Rose des Vents 37 rue Saint-Nicolas 76000 ROUEN 00 33 2 35 70 29 78
12 : 37 A LIGHT LUNCH Le Petit Gourmand - Hôtel de l’Europe 87 rue aux Ours ROUEN 00 33 2 32 76 17 76
14 : 45 IT’S IN THE BAG T u s c i a 72, rue Saint-Romain ROUEN 00 33 2 35 71 88 32
14:30 IT’S ALL SEWN UP Homo Roussel 116, rue du Gros-Horloge ROUEN 00 33 2 35 71 83 45
14 : 02 15 : 00 SOMETHING FOR HERSELF A BOOKWORM’S PARADISE Divine Librairie Polis 74 rue Saint-Romain ROUEN 21 rue Percière ROUEN 00 33 2 35 98 63 24 00 33 2 35 36 63 14
101 16 : 01 17 : 31 TIME FOR TEA FOR THAT SPECIAL HAT Le Strudel Le P’tit Clos Saint-Marc 18 rue Petit de Julleville ROUEN 40 rue Victor-Hugo ROUEN 00 33 2 35 15 58 26 00 33 2 35 71 01 01
18 : 52 NEVER MIND THE RAIN
18 : 31 SOMETHING FOR THE MAN IN 19 : 00 HER LIFE SAY IT WITH FLOWERS Hors Série Au Nom de la Rose 30 allée Eugène Delacroix ROUEN 61 rue Jeanne d’Arc ROUEN 00 33 2 35 08 26 17 00 33 2 35 07 31 05
102 Night life. When night falls and cats come out to play, enjoy a great night out and get down to where And sizzling the music is pumping, where the action’s hot and night life the dance floor is the place to be. Let Bérénice take you to where it’s at ...Enjoy Rouen by night Tall and blonde she is irresistible and when she takes your hand there is no going back ...
00 : 00 DOWN ON THE DANCE FLOOR La Luna 26 rue Saint-Étienne-des-Tonneliers ROUEN 00 33 2 35 88 77 18
20 : 44 DINING OUT Le Rouennais 5 rue de la Pie ROUEN 00 33 2 35 07 55 44
22 : 30 A DRINK IN A BAR L’Euro 41 place du Vieux Marché ROUEN 00 33 2 35 07 55 66
04 : 12 TAXI HOME …
3 : 43 NO MORE LIPSTICK
103
2008/2009 Diary of events Rouen has always been a city where theatre and spectacle play a major role in the entertainment on offer. The city has first class opera, music, dance and theatre while the Zénith concert hall puts on a programme of the very best in French and International artists.
- Rouen Classical Music JUNE 2008 Festival The Cathedral, - National Music day Rouen (21/06) - ‘Vivacity’ - Sotteville les Rouen’s annual street SEPTEMBER 2008 festival, Bois de la - Summer Son et Lumière Garenne (27-29/06) light show, Rouen: The Cathedral from Monet to - Festival Archéojazz, - Blainville Crevon (26- Pixels (on 19th and 20th 28/06) September) - International Organ
- National Event: Photo A. Bertereau National Cinema Day Music Festival, Abbey (29/06 to 01/07) Church of St Ouen Fair, Parc des Expositions - Bernard Ollier - Rouen autumn bric à (27/11 au 01/12) MARCH 2009 exhibition - Fine arts brac and flea market, - 22nd Edition of the Museum (16/05 to 31/08) Rouen Exhibition Centre Rouen Nordic Film DECEMBER 2008 Festival - Charles Fréchon (12-14/09) - Children’s Book Festival, exhibition - Fine arts - National Event: National - Trans-European South Bank lower quay, Cultural Festival Museum (13/06 to 21/09) Heritage Days (20 & 21/09) Rouen (5 to 7/12) Francophonie - Books on the Quayside - Christmas in Rouen - Rouen International Event (21/09) JULY 2008 Fair, Rouen Exhibition - Comic Book Festival, - ARMADA 2008, tall ships Centre Darnétal (27 & 28/09) gathering (05/07 - 14/07) JANUARY 2009 - Cinema from the South - Seine Parade and sail Festival: African Film MAY 2009 past: Farewell to the ships Festival (15-26 January) (14/07) OCTOBER 2008 - Rouen 24 hours - Autumn in Normandy - Winter Bric à Brac and - Les terrasses du Jeudi monocoque speedboat Cultural Festival flea market: Rouen (outdoor Concerts on race, on the river Exhibition Centre (25-27 01) Thursdays, except on - Fine Foods Gourmet - International Choir 10th July 2008) Festival (12/10) Festival, Rouen - Summer Son et - National Event: Get FEBRUARY 2009 - 22nd Edition of Circus Lumière light show, Reading (10 to 12/10) Arts, Grand-Quevilly - French national Rouen: The Cathedral - Rouen Half Marathon synchronised skating - Joan of Arc Festival - from Monet to Pixels (10 au 12/10) cup, Rouen Skating Rink Rouen (nightly 01/07-31/08, and - Georges Koskas, Fine - Local Artists’ Fair, Halle - Exhibition: ‘the 19&20/09) Arts Museum (17/10 to picturesque Normandy’ aux Toiles - 18/01/09) Fine Arts Museum (16/05 AUGUST 2008 - Rouen Annual Fun Fair - Normandy Creative to 16/08) - Summer Son et ‘Fête St Romain’, South Workshop Lumière light show, Bank quaysides (24/10 to - Exhibition: Embossment Rouen: The Cathedral 23/11)) and Japonese dolls – from Monet to Pixels Fine Arts Museum (13/02 (nightly 01/07-31/08, and to 10/05) 19&20/09) NOVEMBER 2008 - International Antiques 105 100 Address Book
• Accommodation Rouen and area • Restaurants Rouen and area • Tourist Attractions Rouen and area • Shops and Good ideas • Our Partners • Leisure
Restaurants Rouen and area
Accommodation Rouen and area Shops and good ideas
Tourist attractions Rouen and area
Our partners
Leisure
The Tourist Office offers you a wide range of services: Information about the city and its surroundings (museums, monuments, entertainment, sports, leisure and practical information) also on the rest of France' (brochures, lodging, etc.) and several other European countries. Ticketting for Zenith and shows. Thanks to the audio guide, visit the historical Reservation of hotel rooms, bed and breakfast accommodation and self-catering centre by yourself. cottages for Rouen and its region. Available in six languages it cannot be simpler to Contact the main desk.: visit the city by yourself or with your family! Tél. 02 32 08 32 40. Fax : 02 32 08 32 44 Just ask our front desk for an audio guide which E-mail : [email protected] will be given with a map. Marked steps on the pavement and the narrator's voice will reveal secrets of the monuments of Rouen and the TOURIST OFFICE HOURS**** artists it inspired. Take your time to have a good look! • May to September: From the Cathedral to place du Vieux Marché, Monday to Saturday 9 am to 7 pm passing the Gros Horloge and the Aître saint Sundays and bank holidays maclou, offer yourself a cultural journey 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm. through the Capital of Normandy. Day rental of an audio guide • Rest of the Year: (according to the front desk Monday to Saturday 9.30 am to 12:30 opening time): €5. pmand 1:30 pm to 6 pm. Reservation to the Tourist Closed on Sundays and bank holidays Office of Rouen: except for special events. +0033 232 083 240
Tél. : +33 2 35 89 48 60 Purchase or sell travellers-checks We buy foreign bank notes which were quoted before the euro
The Rouen-Normandie magazine is published by the Tourist Information Centre in Rouen, Normandy 25, place de la Cathédrale - BP 666 - 76008 Rouen cedex 1 Tél. : + 33 (0)2 32 08 32 40 - Fax : + 33 (0)2 32 08 32 44 www.rouentourisme.com Editor : Henry Decaëns Legal deposit : 2nd term of 2008 Managing editor : Yves Leclerc ISSN : being processed Journalist : Stéphane Nappez Print : Noao Group Photographer (except if otherwise stated) : Jean-François Lange Distibution : 50.000 copies Sub-editor and illustrations : Marion Rabiller Style and design : Bruno Voisin - Veo Communication Copyright is subject to permission from the Tourist Advertising : B&L Associés Information Centre in Rouen, Normandy