Shannondale Springs

By William D. Theriault Like its competitors, Shannondale owed its patronage as much to its image and atmosphere as to the efficacy of its The Shannondale Springs resort, waters. Its fate depended as much on the located in Jefferson County, was one of owners' economic and political savvy as many eighteenth- and nineteenth-century on the staff's ability to stamp out a stray enterprises developed ostensibly to profit spark or sidestep the inevitable floods. from the curative powers of mineral This study explores the ownership, springs.1 The springs construction, and region ran the entire renovation of length of the Shannondale Springs Appalachian Chain and the factors from New York to contributing to its Alabama, with most growth, decline, and of the resorts being demise. located in the Blue Ridge Mountains of The site now known and along as Shannondale the Alleghenies in Springs was part of a . much larger twenty- Springs varied in both nine thousand-acre temperature and tract called mineral content and "Shannandale" specific types were acquired in January thought to combat 1740 by William specific ills. Fairfax, nephew and Mineral springs agent of Thomas, began to gain Poster dated 1856 Lord Fairfax. In popularity in Virginia contemporary terms, during the mid-eighteenth century and Shannondale stretched along the continued to grow and prosper until the Shenandoah River from Castleman's Civil War. They began to prosper once Ferry in Clarke County, Virginia, to more at the end of the nineteenth century Harpers Ferry in present-day Jefferson and then declined again after World War County, West Virginia. I. Established in the early 1820s, the conveyed the whole estate to his son Shannondale Springs resort sought the George William on October 20, 1754. prominence and prosperity achieved at George in turn bequeathed the property other spas, such as the one at nearby and other substantial holdings to his Bath, present-day Berkeley Springs.2 nephew in 1787.3 Although its fate often resembled that of many other spas in the region, a study of Ferdinando Fairfax (1769-1820), the Shannondale Springs sheds light on third son of the Reverend Bryan Fairfax, important social, economic, and political was just eighteen years old when he changes that occurred in the Eastern inherited the Shannondale tract as well Panhandle of West Virginia during the as Piedmont plantation and the period. estate in Fairfax County, Virginia. Both

1 Shannondale Springs his uncle and father were good friends of his own furnace or forge at Shannondale , who had stood at this time. Nevertheless, he appears to godfather to Ferdinando.4 have been moving in this direction; Details of Fairfax's use of the property between 1809 and 1811 he purchased the before 1800 are sketchy, although he did furnace bellows, various pieces of erect a residence on it called "Shannon equipment, and available cast and Hall" across the Shenandoah River from wrought iron of the defunct Keep Triste the springs.5 By the start of the new Furnace from the armory.8 In 1811 century, Fairfax was one of the richest Fairfax sold a 1,395.5-acre segment of and most prosperous residents of the the Shannondale tract to the United area. He was one of the original trustees States government. The land was on the of the Charlestown Academy (founded east side of the Shenandoah River, in 1797), the largest slaveholder in the beginning at a point below Harpers Ferry area, and one of the original members of and running up the river. The following the Jefferson County Court in 1801. He year, he advertised for an individual to owned or leased several properties in build a flour warehouse on the Potomac Charlestown, was a justice of the peace River just below Harpers Ferry and very during this period, and played a major near Digg's Island, and he mortgaged role in the design and construction of the part of his Piedmont estate in Loudoun original Charlestown jail (1802) and County to Elijah Chamberlain. In 1813 Market House (1806).6 he purchased the 196-acre farm in Fairfax's attempts to develop the Harpers Ferry that included the Lee- commercial potential of his Shannondale Longworth House. The land was leased property appear to have begun in earnest by the United States government. That by 1808, when he gave notice of his same year Fairfax mortgaged his intent to apply to the February term of Shannon Hill tract to Charles Gibbs.9 the Jefferson County Court to establish a All of these events point to Fairfax's ferry across the Shenandoah River from attempts to find a market for his own his land to the public road opposite goods, certainly iron ore and possibly Shannon Hill.7 The Shannondale Ferry wheat or flour, at Harpers Ferry. Lacking was probably established in spring 1809. the capital to finance an iron furnace at Since the road to the ferry landing went Shannondale, Fairfax advertised for past the springs, this resource was partners in an 1815 prospectus published known, at least locally, by this period. in Washington, DC. His efforts to find However, no evidence has been found financial backing for the Shannondale thus far to indicate that the medicinal Iron Estate were unsuccessful. Except properties of the waters had been for a sawmill and some scattered tenant recognized. farms, Fairfax's Shannondale property, By 1809 Fairfax had extracted iron ore including the springs, seems to have samples from five sites on his property undergone relatively little development and sent them to several ironmasters for by 1815.10 conversion into bar iron and then to By 1814 Fairfax's financial empire was James Stubblefield at the Harpers Ferry unraveling. Mortgages made during the Armory to determine their suitability in last decade had come due, and he was the manufacture of firearms. These obliged to auction the ten thousand-acre activities suggest Fairfax did not have Shannondale Iron Mine tract and his

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Short Hill property in Loudoun County to pay his debts." Even if Fairfax had known of Shannondale Springs' medicinal properties, he lacked the funds to develop a spa. In the context of all the previously mentioned financial activities, Ferdinando Fairfax "of the city of Washington" sold Thomas Griggs Jr. and Benjamin Beeler an undivided two- thirds of the land containing Shannondale Springs in November 1819. The property was described as being "opposite the Shannon Hill tract, containing by estimation about sixty acres more or less and being commonly called the Horse Shoe Tract. . . ." On July 1 of the following year, Fairfax sold Griggs his remaining one-third interest in the Horse Shoe Tract to secure payment for a debt. Ferdinando Fairfax, age fifty-two, died at his residence in Fairfax County, Virginia, on September 24, 1820.12

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resort's initial success. After getting off The First Era to a good start in the early 1820s, the resort fell on hard times, lasting perhaps Shannondale Springs was not used for until the late 1830s. Until the arrival of commercial purposes until after Beeler the railroads and the Chesapeake and and Griggs had acquired two-thirds Ohio (C&O) Canal, access to the resort interest in the property. Even then, they from Washington, Richmond, or may not have recognized the springs' full Baltimore was difficult. The reputation potential. In 1821 the owners had the of the resort also appears to have water analyzed by a Dr. DeButts, who suffered during this period. Samuel pronounced it comparable to that found Kercheval noted that, when it first in the best spas in Europe.13 opened, "A few extraordinary cures were After Beeler and Griggs purchased the effected by the use of the water, of property, the winter weather would have obstinate scorbutic complaints, and it prevented work from commencing until suddenly acquired a high reputation." the following spring. There are Writing in 1838 John S. Gallaher indications that some facilities were observed, "After passing through various available by the summer of that year; vicissitudes, and encountering many Rosalie Stier Calvert reported visiting prejudices, as well as no small share of the springs on July 15, 1820. Thus, the obloquy, the most impartial, as also opening of the Shannondale Springs competent judges, have at length resort can be pinpointed with some stamped upon these waters that character confidence to the summer of 1820.14 to which they were early entitled, and During the construction of the which gives them a just claim to rank "houses" at Shannondale Springs, Beeler with the most celebrated mineral waters accumulated debts that forced him to of this country." Another writer recalled, mortgage his share in the sixty-acre "The few bilious cases that occurred parcel, the ferry, the mineral waters, and here in the summer of 1822,—a season the houses he had already erected. well remembered of general bilious Several other transactions took place in sickness throughout the country,—has August and September 1821, with James unfortunately but unfairly been L. Ranson, Thomas Brown, Samuel W. remembered to have occurred here, Lackland, and Thomas Griggs Jr. when forgotten as having happened at emerging as the new owners. The four other places." Another visitor to the men then entered into an agreement springs writing in 1838 believed which indicates Griggs erected a disagreements among the original "boarding house" (i.e., hotel) in the owners had led to the resort's being only summer of 1821, along with several partially completed and the original other structures (baths or bathhouses) buildings had deteriorated to the point where no guests could be which augmented the houses constructed 16 by Beeler the previous year.15 accommodated. According to one contemporary The layout of the early resort was well source, President James Monroe and his documented by the pen of Charles cabinet used Shannondale Springs as Burton about 1831. His illustration their summer White House until 1825. shows the hotel as a two-story, red- Such patronage may account for the roofed, white structure with an

4 Shannondale Springs

additional basement and a porch morning, dine at Harpers-Ferry at 1, and be spanning the entire first floor. The first here by 3. They can then ride out, in one and second floors show eight rectangular hour more, to the Springs, or, (which would windows evenly spaced across the front; be far preferable by-the-by,) they can defer the basement level reveals eight evenly riding out till the cool of the morning, and, in spaced square windows. Ten single-story the meantime, rest themselves at some of structures form a rough semicircle our hotels, where they will be regaled with around the hotel. delicacies not A barn-like surpassed by the structure and a rich tables of two-story house Hussey himself. lie close behind On the other the cottages on hand, the citizens the southeast. of the District Far in the have ready distance to the access to this southwest, two watering place, by other buildings way of the Little can be seen near River Turnpike, the edge of the which crosses the woods. Other river a few miles parts of the above, and by the illustration show Chesapeake and two small Burton’s drawing ca. 1831 Ohio Canal. From buildings the west, too, is northwest of the hotel near the ready access by means of stages, two lines Shannondale Ferry and a grove of trees of which run daily from Winchester to this uphill from the hotel, possibly at the site place and Harpers-Ferry."19 of one of the springs.17 Shares of the resort property were Shannondale Springs was now frequently bought and sold throughout accessible to the wealthy and influential the first half of the 1830s, perhaps from Baltimore, Washington, and reflecting economic hardship, cholera Richmond and the improvements in epidemics, or speculation based on the transportation were opening up new arrival of the railroads.18 The C&O markets for the area's natural resources. Canal reached Harpers Ferry in 1833, The heyday of Shannondale Springs was the Baltimore & Ohio (B&O) Railroad about to begin. in 1834, and the Winchester and Potomac (W&P) Railroad in 1835. During the early 1830s, Samuel W. Extolling the virtues of the springs, John Lackland gained control of most of the S. Gallaher, owner of Charlestown's Shannondale Springs property. On Virginia Free Press, noted in 1835: September 1, 1837, he and his wife sold their eight-ninths interest in the 66.5- "Shannondale Springs . . . can be reached in acre Shannondale Springs tract and the less than a day by travellers from Baltimore. entire 121-acre tract adjoining it to a They may start from that city at 5 in the new group of investors. The group included Andrew Kennedy, Joseph T.

5 Shannondale Springs

Daugherty, Robert T. Brown, George W. where persons can be provided with Hammond, William Yates, John S. warm or cold baths, for which purpose Gallaher, William Crow, John B. H. they can use either the mineral waters, or Fulton, and Charles G. Stewart.20 This the river water, as may be preferred." group, plus James L. Ranson, comprised Gallaher lost no time in promoting the the ownership of the Shannondale virtues of his new investment. In 1838 Springs Company when it was the Virginia Free Press, published a incorporated in March 1838 by the prospectus entitled Shannondale: The Virginia General Assembly. The men Quality and Character of the Waters and had their share of power, influence, and Their Effects upon Various Diseases.23 financing. To finance the purchase of the Gallaher's prospectus included the property from Lackland, each member of following description of the resort by a the group placed his forty shares in the Professor Hall of Maryland: company in trust to Richard Parker. A loan of five thousand dollars for "As you descend towards the [Shannondale] improvements was obtained from the Ferry, you see on the Northern side of the Charlestown branch of the Valley Bank, hill, and near its base, a long two-story brick whose president was their long-standing edifice, made snow white by lime, and back associate, Thomas Griggs Jr.21 of it, farther up the hill, a dozen or more small The birth of the Shannondale Springs dwellings, mostly of wood, and now in good Corporation in 1838 takes on additional repair. Back of these, and withdrawn a few significance when we recognize that the rods from them, stand two one-story brick incorporators were members of lodgments, separated each into four small Virginia's Whig party who had been convenient apartments. These are the best working for more than a decade to have private rooms belonging to the concern, and the legislature fund internal are preferred by those who love and seek improvement projects such as railroads, retirement. The upper stories of the long highways, and canals. One of the former edifice are divided into twenty-five lodging owners, Thomas Griggs Jr., had served rooms. The dining room, in the first story, is in the House of Delegates in 1835.22 80 feet long and 30 wide. In this spacious John S. Gallaher, in particular, was an apartment, the light-footed nymphs and joy- important force in the success of the seeking swains often mingle in the giddy resort. Gallaher had fought for internal dance. The buildings are neatly finished. improvements from his seat in the House Comfort is consulted."24 of Delegates and from his position as editor of or investor in several Whig A visitor to the hotel in 1848 provided newspapers in Virginia. As the fame of further details of the landscape. Shannondale Springs grew during the Describing the panoramic view from the next twenty years, it became a resort for hill in back of the hotel, he noted, "To the wealthy, as well as a Whig enclave the right, the waving and sloping ground with strong ties to Baltimore, is devoted to agricultural purposes, and Washington, and Richmond. exhibits an appearance of great fertility The hotel reopened on June 10, 1838. and productiveness. To the left of the Isaac N. Carter was hired as proprietor main building [are] gravelled walks, of the hotel, and a writer noted the bordered by trees. ..."25 "company are erecting bath houses

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Outlining the regimen at the springs, whose compensation is regulated by the Professor Hall asserted, "no mineral charity of those who avail themselves of water of this country, possessing the her voluntary aid. She may be the genius same constituent parts, is a more active of the fountain, but she is far from being purgative, when freely taken, than the its nymph. ..."27 Shannondale; being, in general, equal in power to most of the neutral salts; or, on But what if a guest demanded the contrary, more bland in its operation, amusement rather than treatment? when used with moderation; acting as gently as the mildest aperient, without "Are you a pedestrian? You have an giving rise to griping or flatulence, or agreeable promenade of a mile on the banks that feeling of debility so often of a stream about as wide, but not so deep, occasioned by ordinary cathartics." He as the Thames at London, but far more observed that "morning is considered the beautiful. Are you an angler? The home of most suitable—drinking it at the springs the perch, the sucker and the eel, is the if practicable... . It may also be taken at Shenandoah;—a boat and fishing apparatus night by those who are desirous to are prepared, and a colored man ever ready secure its full effect on the bowels." As to attend you. Are you fond of hunting? Four to other treatments, or five fowling pieces are now standing in ... the warm bath will serve as a very one of the rooms for your use. Do you like important auxiliary to the water. . . . It is excursions on the water? A skiff is at hand— generally believed to be a much safer you can go down the river in it to Harpers- remedy than the cold bath, and more Ferry in the evening, and row back in the particularly applicable to persons of morning. Are you a mineralogist or weak and irritable constitutions, who geologist? Gratifying ambulations may be could not bear the shock produced by made for examining the structure of rocks, cold bathing, in consequence of their not and the collecting of specimens. "I have not possessing sufficient vigour of strength," you may say, "to perform these circulation to bring about the proper re- excursions." Then you can sit in your action.... The necessary change of scene apartments, and amuse yourself in looking at that takes place in visiting watering the long rafts of lumber which are continually places, the exercise of the body, the passing, and boats freighted with flour, some abstraction of the mind from the cares destined to the city of power, but more for the attendant on business, the interruption of city of shot towers, and steamboats, and fine a uniform train of thought and attention, hotels. Backgammon, checker and puzzle all certainly co-operate with the boards, are at your call. Do you wish for the beneficial effects of the waters.26 society of well educated gentlemen and George Watterson, visiting the springs ladies? No where in this country, or perhaps a decade later, noted that the principal in the world, do you meet with better spring was surrounded by magnificent informed or more polished people, than very elms and other ornamental trees, with many of those who reside within the seats placed in their shade for those who compass of six miles around wished to drink the water. "An old Shannondale."28 colored woman seated near the Spring, from morning to night, employs herself Another visitor to the resort in the in dipping up the water for visitors, and summer of 1838 observed that a floating house had been erected for men wishing

7 Shannondale Springs to bathe in the river and that a similar In August 1839 Henry Berry sold the establishment for ladies would soon be Shannondale Springs Corporation two erected.29 parcels of land near the intersection of Under Gallaher's direction, the the Charlestown-to-Martinsburg road Virginia Free Press became an important (now West Virginia Route 9) and the vehicle for advertising the virtues of W&P, in present-day Kearneysville, Shannondale Springs. During the next West Virginia. Berry, who had served in twenty years, its pages contained the Virginia House of Delegates with numerous Thomas testimonials to Griggs Jr. and the curative John S. powers of its Gallaher, had waters and acquired the descriptions of property in the events 1834, before attended by the railroad local society had reached and visiting Harpers Ferry. dignitaries. By November Gallaher's 1841 T. A. articles and Milton and the property Company, transactions of former the period also investors in reveal that the the owners of Shannondale Shannondale Springs Springs were property, had developing the leased the U.S. local tourist Map dated 1832 Hotel at industry by Harpers Ferry. acquiring property near the intersection One of the company, Capt. Joseph F. of highways and the newly built Abell, had been the hotel keeper at railroads and by forming business Shannondale Springs for several years alliances with hotel owners in and became the proprietor of the U.S. Charlestown and Harpers Ferry. Shortly Hotel in 1845. An 1847 Free Press after the Shannondale Springs Hotel article identifies Capt. John J. Abell as opened under the management of Isaac the proprietor of the Shannondale Carter, a guest wrote to the Free Press Springs Hotel and Capt. M. Thompson that he had stopped at Carter's hotel in as bartender at both establishments. The Charlestown, where he had been invited Free Press noted that guests arriving at to visit the springs. Carter was actively Harpers Ferry on the B&O could enjoy a recruiting guests for his hotel at delicious meal at the local hotel, then Shannondale.30 board a W&P train for Charlestown, Other persons associated with the where they could take a carriage to the springs were also busy forging alliances. springs.31 These alliances suggest that

8 Shannondale Springs businessmen in Jefferson County were the Washingtons, first crossed over the aggressively building local tourism as an Ridge before the Revolution."32 industry. Residents of the surrounding counties, Visitors to Shannondale Springs many of them friends and associates of during the the owners, 1840s and mingled with 1850s the guests for included a fortnight, a invalids day, or an taking the evening, waters, artists returning seeking regularly for inspiration, concerts, and members dress balls, of the social July Fourth and political fireworks, elite who and ring renewed old tournaments friendships —good- and forged natured new alliances. jousting One New matches in York which local columnist, "knights" characterizing vied for the the difference honor of between crowning Shannondale their "ladies." and its One of these northern tournaments competitors, was captured noted, by the pen of Map dated 1852 a guest in "... there is an July 1848: entire absence of that codfish aristocracy, and those sets of "The sound of many feet and the murmur of would-be exclusives, of whom we have been voices rose through the vale. The crowd so much in connection with Northern gathered from all points to witness the watering places; none of your Simkinses, or expected pageant. The rush of vehicles and Timkinses, or such people whose pedigree horses was so great that they had to be left runs full tilt into a grocery or soap factory; but upon the opposite side of the river, and we have unassuming people—F.F.V's, if you gentlemen and ladies were borne over in the please—whose history runs back to the large ferry boat as thick as they could stand, ancient cavaliers, who, with Lord Fairfax and and walked thence to the Hotel. It was truly an exciting and strange sight, to see them

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stretching in hurried and confused step sumptuous feast was spread. There with the across the lawn. flow of Champagne and the exchange of . . . At 10 o'clock the knights gave in their consumed the afternoon.... Every one then names to the Herald, and 18 brave and retired to their rooms to prepare for the daring champions were registered. They Fancy Ball.... were then ordered to prepare themselves At about half past 8 o'clock, the spacious and horses for the tournament. At 11 o'clock, ball room was thronged with spectators the crowds gathered beneath the awaiting the entrance of the Queen, her umbrageous and majestic elms that over champion and cortege and attendants.... At hang the fountains, where they had a near the sound of music the folding doors at the and far view of the scene. The bugle then upper end of the room were suddenly sounded and the knights, all mounted, rode opened, and the Queen and her champion, in front of the assembled throng under the richly dressed, in fancy costumes . . . direction of the Herald, Dr. G[erard]. F. appeared, followed by the knights and maids Mason. Dressed in peculiar and picturesque of honor, and a long train of attendants, all costumes, with their tall lances glittering in fancifully attired. . . . The many characters .. . the sun-beams, they presented an imposing represented every nation, and flitted before and brilliant spectacle. The President of the you in such rapid succession that it was day, the Hon. Henry Bedinger, addressed impossible to identify them. A few, however, them in such eloquent tones and elevated were very conspicuous. Mr. L[awrence]. W. and inspired sentiments, that the dullest W[ashing]ton, as the English hunter of the bosom was roused to the highest daring and 15th century, was superb; he filled the the true spirit of ancient chivalry was revived. character to very life. Mr. J[ohn]. W. The privilege of selecting the fairest from K[enne]dy, in the court dress of Lewis [sic] the lovely array, and crowning her the Queen 14th looked remarkably striking and of Beauty, was to be the deed of victory, and handsome.... "33 there was not one among them would not have scaled a fortress for so rich a boon. The Scenes like this were repeated frequently speech of Mr. Bedinger was most during this period, with southern ladies appropriate and beautiful, and I regret that I and gentlemen reenacting Sir Walter cannot give it here. When he had concluded, Scott's tales of medieval chivalry while the knights repaired to the place of starting. they were waited on by black servants in Then began the most splendid contention livery. that eye ever witnessed. It is impossible to Although not every evening at the give a detailed account of it but the horses, springs was filled with such splendor, catching the spirit of the rider, flew like the dances were held almost nightly. Mary J. wind, and their flashing eyes and foaming Windle, who stayed at the springs in July mouths betrayed the high excitement.... 1851, described the music from the Mr. K. [the victor]... was then requested to ballroom as drawing guests from their name the first maid of honor and selected cottages on the summer evening, "and one of the belles of Jefferson, Miss the variety of costumes and colors in Rebecca.... Mr. Moore then named for constant motion formed a gay piece of second maid of honor, Miss Fitzhugh of human Mosaic."34 Stafford, and... Washington for third maid of Promoted as a "Fashionable Watering honor the fair and graceful Miss...Martin of Place," praised by Henry Howe as Kentucky. After the selection [concluded], the "easier of access from the Atlantic cities, company repaired to the Hotel, where a most than any others in Virginia,"

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Shannondale Springs drew high area. A writer to the Virginia Free Press recommendations from the travel critics in 1875 nostalgically recalled that, at the of its day. John J. Moorman, writing of resort's bowling saloon, he "had the its pleasures just two years before the pleasure of rolling with the distinguished hotel burned, noted, "The authoress, Mrs. Southworth . . . where, accommodations at Shannondale are not surrounded by so much of the romantic

Depiction of "The Shannondale Springs" from Henry Howe's 1845 Historical Collections of Virginia extensive, perhaps adapted to 140 to 150 and beautiful, she no doubt received no persons, but it is admittedly a very little inspiration for her interesting delightful place."35 novels."36 One writer of the period further advanced the springs' reputation when It was here that she penned her novel she stayed there in July and August Shannondale, a romantic tale with a 1850. Mrs. Emma D. E. N. Southworth, convoluted plot, set at the estate of the one of the best-known "female fictitious Lord Summerfield. The novel novelists" of her time, spent part of the has virtually nothing to do with its summer there with her son Richmond namesake, although it was used as an and daughter Charlotte. Fleeing the historical reference by one misguided oppressive heat of Washington, DC, she newspaperman in the mid-1920s. joined other members of society leaving Southworth's novel appears to be the the sweltering cities and those who origin of the myth about "Lover's Leap," believed that the springs' iron-laden a cliff overhanging the Shenandoah waters would protect them against the River across from the Springs. cholera epidemic that was sweeping the According to the novelist's rendition, a

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beautiful Indian princess threw herself Shannondale Springs Hotel appear to into the river after being wooed and have ended in 1848, with James B. spurned by one of the white gentlemen Wager leasing the former establishment staying at the Summerfield estate. The and Capt. M. Thompson overseeing story has been used frequently to Abell's interests during his "absence."41 promote the hotel since the novel's The springs' biggest promoter, John S. publication.37 Gallaher, accepted an appointment from Whatever failings the novel might President Zachary Taylor in October have had, there was something romantic 1849 to be third auditor of the treasury and special about Shannondale that drew and presumably moved his residence to people to it again and again. As a Washington, DC. By May 1850 an correspondent from the New York advertisement in the Spirit of Jefferson Herald wrote about his visit to the noted that the Shannondale Springs springs, "We feel completely cut off, Hotel had been leased by Hall, Osburn, shut out, or rather shut in, from the busy, and Company and was undergoing delving, money making world which we thorough repairs. The following season, have left behind."38 the proprietors promised all was in a state of readiness for the June 10 Throughout the 1840s and 1850s the opening and added, "They have procured resort continued to be owned by the the best Band of music, and most group of Whigs who had formed the capable servants that can be found Shannondale Springs Corporation in without regard to price." According to 1838. During the 1840s at least, it one newspaper correspondent, the music appeared to prosper, and beginning was provided by about 1847 the hotel came under the management of John J. Abell. One "a band of colored musicians, and their correspondent to the Virginia Free Press favorite air is—"Carry me back to ole described him as "a gentleman of the Virginny" which they play almost every day at most urbane manners, and assisted by dinner time; and sometimes in the evening, that old Virginia gentleman, Capt. when the sun is sinking behind the western Thompson, gives an additional attraction mountains, they give us a variety of Virginia to the place." Abell seems to have been melodies, with the variations, the favorite of careful in the use of the hotel's which, among the ladies, appears to be— resources, suspending all credit to guests "Why don't you stop dat knocking at da in 1848 and hiring out slaves used as door?""42 domestic servants when they were not needed at the hotel.''39 Despite President Millard Fillmore, Secretary Shannondale Springs' popularity, it is of War Charles Magill Conrad, and unlikely that the hotel was expanded Postmaster General Nathan K. Hall during this period. Henry Howe's visited Shannondale Springs in August depiction of an enlarged hotel in his 1851. The president first stopped at Historical Collections of Virginia (1845) Harpers Ferry to inspect the armory, probably reflects the improvements then took a special train to Charlestown made in 1838.40 and a carriage to the springs. He The Abells' associations with the U.S. attended a ball given in his honor, stayed Hotel in Harpers Ferry and the

12 Shannondale Springs overnight at Shannondale, and then all now lie a mass of smoldering ruin," proceeded to Winchester.43 the damage seems to have been limited In 1852, when S. Howell Brown had to the hotel and a few adjacent completed his first detailed map of structures. The reporter hoped "that the Jefferson County, he showed eleven Springs and lands attached, in all about buildings arranged around the hotel to one hundred and ninety-six acres, may the north and west, a bowling green to fall into the hands of capitalists, who the northwest, and three mineral springs will erect spacious accommodations, and to the southwest of the hotel, between it the gaiety of former years be also and the river. The road to the ferry was inaugurated."47 shown on the north side of the river; a Before the hotel was rebuilt, the nation building stood at the ferry crossing; and would experience the devastation of the the road from the ferry continued along Civil War and Jefferson County would the south bank of the river, passing in face incorporation into the new state of front of the hotel. Henry Howe's 1845 West Virginia and the miseries of illustration of Shannondale Springs, Reconstruction. An era had ended at depicting an expanded hotel, was Shannondale Springs and its rebirth included as an illustration on the map.44 would be left to another generation. As late as 1854 the resort seems to have been doing well. An article of the period In September 1859 a writer for the notes that festivities included fireworks Virginia Free Press noted the and a ball well attended by visitors from Shannondale Springs property was now neighboring counties.45 on the market: If the success of Shannondale Springs was tied to the patronage of prominent "Although the main building was burned Whigs, the election of Democrat some two years ago, the walls are in a fair Franklin Pierce may have been the condition to admit of improvement at harbinger of hard times. After Pierce's comparatively little expense, whilst there are inauguration, John S. Gallaher and other 15 cabins on the Lawns attached. There are Fillmore supporters lost their two brick cabins, with 8 rooms, all having appointments. In April 1855 corporation chimneys, 13 frame, besides Bath Houses, president Samuel W. Lackland Dairy, Stabling, Ice House, Corn House, etc., advertised that the resort was for rent, etc.... Hundreds of people even now resort and a month later the furniture and 140 there for pleasure and the benefit of the acres attached to the springs were put up water, although there are no for sale. Lackland's attempts to find a accommodations offered."48 buyer appear to have been unsuccessful.46 Perhaps the hotel would have been With Gallaher's continued absence in restored to its earlier genteel ambiance Washington, the Virginia Free Press's had a buyer been found at the time. But promotion of the hotel and reportage of less than ten miles away, John Brown its events dwindled. In March 1858 a fire and his men were gathering at the from a burning chimney progressed so Kennedy Farm in preparation for his raid rapidly that efforts to save the hotel were on Harpers Ferry. Col. Lawrence fruitless. Although the Free Press Washington, who had attended the reported that "The entire buildings . . . costume ball at the springs dressed "as

13 Shannondale Springs the English hunter of the 15th century," Barbecue" to be held on August 22. had already been identified by one of Persons interested in dancing were John Brown's party as a slaveholder and assured that the services of the best potential hostage. Andrew Kennedy, one musicians in the state would be procured of the members of the Shannondale and "a good floor would be prepared" so Springs Corporation, would soon be the they could dance under the stars. prosecuting attorney in the trial of the Although the ring tournaments were conspirators. Judge Richard Parker, who gone for the present, various earlier had handled some of the financial affairs participants calling themselves the of the corporation, would preside over "Knight of Shannondale" represented the the case. springs at tournaments both near and Little information about Shannondale far.51 Springs is available for the war years. In May 1868 the property was The area was frequented by Confederate advertised for sale. Commenting on raider John Singleton Mosby and his recent attempts to revitalize the springs, men and by Federal cavalry responsible one writer observed, "the war itself for destroying Mosby's disruptive prevented the company from rebuilding. operations.49 There are now but two [John S. Gallaher By 1867 Shannondale Springs was and William Crow] of the original once again in use, with the Shannondale proprietors living, and they are too old to Circuit of the Methodist Episcopal commence the work of renovation. The Church South holding its first quarterly heirs of others are numerous and prefer meeting there. Religious services, church selling." The Alexandria, Loudoun, and meetings, and church picnics were Hampshire Railroad was to come within frequently held at the springs during the a mile of the springs, providing summer months even though the hotel additional access. The property was still was no longer standing. Many attendees on the market in October 1870 when the to these meetings stayed overnight, flood that devastated Harpers Ferry and presumably in the remaining cabins or in many of the industries along the tents erected for the occasion. Other Shenandoah River also took its toll on private groups on pleasure excursions Shannondale Springs. The Spirit of came to picnic for the day. The Spirit of Jefferson reported, "The old Ferry- Jefferson noted that the place had House at Shannondale is no more, but become popular with the " votaries of acted as escort to its downstream the terpsichorean art." The Virginia Free neighbors, Walraven's saw-mill and Press, observing that some of the cabins house, in their transit oceanward." Some were being renovated that summer, of the cottages were renovated in 1872 stated Shannondale Springs "is now an in an effort to accommodate a few of the attractive resort for Pic-Nic and Fishing visitors that frequented the site. The parties."50 assessed value of the property continued That summer new proprietors Samuel to decline through the 1870s, suggesting Hill, M. D. Wilson Jr., S. H. Wilson, and deterioration was outpacing the minimal J. W. Milton attempted to revive the efforts made at maintenance.52 elegant festivities that had been held at The full extent of deterioration at the the springs in its antebellum days. They springs was described by a visitor who advertised a "Grand Pic Nic and had frequented the place in the 1850s.

14 Shannondale Springs

Returning in 1875 he observed that, in Hurst. Baker and Hurst purchased earlier days, Shannondale Springs at a public sale in 1888." "sounds of music were to be heard there, and gay parties of dancers filled the halls, and other lively sports were the order of the day, at this then fashionable resort.—All was life and activity. Now the scene is changed. Herds of cattle, roaming at will, are the only living creatures to be seen, and the voice of the ploughman, and the old familiar voice the passing river, dashing over the rugged rocks, are the only sounds that greet the ear. . . . Amongst former improvements which have passed away, is the old bowling saloon, to which ladies as well as gentlemen were in the habit of resorting for agreeable exercise, in the edge of the forest on the top of the hill.... Nothing remains now to mark the place [of the hotel], where so many bright eyes glanced and pretty feet danced over the smooth boards, but the cold stones of the foundation—and some barbarous sinner, having no veneration for cherished relics, has run through the centre of this almost sacred spot, a worm fence!"53

Of the group that had formed the Shannondale Springs Corporation in 1838, only John S. Gallaher remained. Seventy-five years old and living in Washington, he lacked the energy, influence, and capital needed to resurrect the once famous resort. He died on February 4, 1877.54 By 1883 Shannondale Springs appears to have dwindled to only eight cottages. Nevertheless, it was still frequented by parties from the surrounding counties who picnicked, played croquet, played music, and danced on the green. The springs and the natural beauty of the spot remained. In May 1885 Mary Crow, widow of William Crow, one of the last shareholders in the Shannondale Springs Corporation, conveyed her interest in the property to Eugene Baker and J. Garland

15 Shannondale Springs

The Second Era commercial subdivision adjacent to Charlestown, and utilize local resources Since the Shannondale Springs Hotel such as limestone, timber, clay, and iron had been reduced to ashes in 1858, its ore. The company purchased options on owners and potential investors had both the iron deposits at Shannondale lacked the resources to restore the resort and the Shannondale Springs resort, to its former splendor. The devastation meaning the owners of the springs would share in the prosperity if the economic caused by the war and the challenges of 58 Reconstruction had forced the owners to boom occurred. focus on rebuilding their lives. But the By 1896 the tradition of ring economic climate had changed by the tournaments returned to the springs, time Baker and Hurst purchased although on a smaller scale. The Shannondale Springs in 1888.55 participants were ages six and seven. In Baker and Hurst began construction of the years that followed, the contestants a new Shannondale Springs Hotel in the were to be more mature. The springs spring of 1890. The frame structure was attracted more families, young people, and sportsmen and few members of the built on the spot where the earlier hotel 59 had been. The building was one hundred nation's political and social elite. feet long by forty-five feet wide, included a basement and two stories, and contained twenty-five guest rooms, a ballroom, and several bathrooms. Allowing for porches and piazzas, the new building closely resembled the original structure in size and external appearance.56 The hotel opened early in July 1890 with a dance marking the occasion. The only criticism of the well-attended festivity was that the women outnumbered the men three to one. An advertisement marked the spring's season opening: "Excellent Boating, Bathing, Fishing and Hunting—Scenery Unsurpassed. Three Fine Mineral The financial boom envisioned by the Springs. Cool, Quiet. Reasonable Charlestown Mining, Manufacturing, Charges. Everything new."57 and Improvement Company did not The rebirth of the hotel at this time materialize, and the hopes of the springs' was directly related to the establishment owners collapsed with those of the grand of the Charlestown Mining, project. Baker and Hurst used the Manufacturing, and Improvement springs property and the adjacent farm to Company. Formed to inject new secure a note for $8,000. When they economic vitality into Jefferson County, defaulted on the loan, H. C. the corporation planned to improve Getzendanner purchased the property in transportation, establish major October 1902 at public auction for industries, create a large residential and $9,055. The purchase included the 66.5-

16 Shannondale Springs acre springs property, the adjacent 125- $25 per month each. Horses boarded. Livery acre farm, and "the ferry and ferry attached to hotel. Bait always on hand."62 franchise and cable and large ferry boat."60 When the springs was about to open in the summer of 1902, William P. Craighill reminisced about the past glories of the place and the eminent visitors it had served. The author claimed at least five presidents had visited the springs—George Washington as a surveyor, James Monroe as a friend of the Craighills (who owned property nearby), Andrew Jackson, Martin Van Buren, and Millard Fillmore. Although documentation has not yet been located to verify the visits of Washington, Monroe, and Jackson, Craighill claimed to have seen Van Buren and Fillmore at the springs. The claims for presidential visits have continued to grow from this By the end of July 1903 all of the period and most of them remain cottages had been filled and the hotel unsubstantiated.61 rooms taken. Shortly after he reopened the hotel, Getzendanner issued a The new hotel was scheduled to open prospectus describing it as a plain under Getzendanner's ownership on June wooden structure consisting of a 1, 1903, and advertisements and basement, two stories, and an attic. The newspaper articles promised significant overall dimensions of the building were improvements. One writer observed: "about 100 feet long by 30 feet wide," with the addition of porches accounting "The hotel at this old historical resort, famed for the imprecise measurements. The in song and story, is thoroughly renovated basement contained a dining room of 50 and newly and comfortably furnished, feet by 30 feet, a kitchen about 25 feet including bath rooms, electric fans, etc.... by 30 feet, plus a cellar and pantry. The Telephone connection with Charles Town first floor included a ballroom about 32 and surrounding towns. Three fine mineral by 30 feet, an office and waiting room, springs—Chalybeate, Red and Blue Sulphur. and eight bedrooms with front and rear Amusements—Golf Links, Tennis Courts, porches. The second floor had sixteen Bathing, Boating, Bass Fishing and other bedrooms and a rear porch. Two brick sports can be indulged in by guests at all cottages with shingle roofs were located suitable times, as they will have free use of near the hotel. Referred to by later over 100 lovely acres of blue grass, wood writers as the "Presidential Cottages," and meadow land. Terms—$2 per day; $10 each was about 50 by 15 feet, with a per week; $30 per month. Special rates to porch and four bedrooms. Getzendanner parties and families; when two occupy the also built a new stable and servants' same room the rate is $8 per week each or quarters. A large wooden water tank provided the hotel with water for the

17 Shannondale Springs bathrooms and for domestic purposes, climb the cliffs, there was also a the water being pumped by a gasoline magnificent view from Lover's Leap of engine from a driven well.63 the horseshoe bend, the mountains, the There was "a beautiful lawn around the hotel, and the lawn. Persons coming to entire hotel, sloping to the river and the resort late in the season would also extending above and below the hotel, find good hunting. The mineral springs, and containing over one hundred acres." as always, were praised for their medicinal powers, but the focus of the resort clearly was recreation rather than medication.65 In addition to the resort, Getzendanner owned several other businesses, including an operation to manufacture railroad ties from timber on his Shannondale tract. Previous owners of the springs had relied on their political influence, a local network of hotel, transportation, and tourist enterprises, and diverse investments to promote the resort and help it weather the hard times. Getzendanner's success did not last long.

The hotel was more of a family resort than a watering place for the elite. The author noted, "One will find here entire freedom from all formalities, and the Springs are especially adapted to those seeking the freedom and outdoor amusements the place affords, rather than the style and attractions of a fashionable summer resort." For those Presidential cottages who might be concerned about the moral climate, "No bar for the sale of The hotel was destroyed by fire early spirituous liquors is maintained on the in November 1909. According to a property."64 contemporary source, "the conflagration Other amusements included a piano in begun about 5 p.m., and in a short while the ballroom, a large, open fireplace, a the entire building and contents with one tennis court, a croquet ground, and a six- of the cottages, were destroyed. No one hole golf course. The bass fishing knows how the fire started. Mr. H. F. directly in front of the hotel was reported Koonce, the lessee, was at the barn when to be excellent, boats were available for his wife called him, saying the hotel was the guests, and there was "good bathing on fire. It was first discovered by Mrs. ground and moderate depth of water just Koonce who found a blaze in the above the riffs in front of the hotel." For office."66 Getzendanner had insured the those willing to row across the river and hotel for five thousand dollars and the

18 Shannondale Springs furniture for an additional one thousand to pay his outstanding debts. Of the dollars. Virginia Koonce Cosy, the twelve new cases reported on the local Koonces' daughter, was of the opinion chancery docket for April 1924, four that the fire had started in the rafters on involved Frye as defendant. The charges the basement floor. She also believed alleged he had transferred the that both the hotel fire and the blaze Shannondale Springs farm to his wife which leveled the farmhouse at the previous fall to the detriment of his Shannondale a few weeks later were of creditors.70 suspicious origin. The hotel fire was so That same year, C. L. Crane attempted intense that even possessions placed to form a country club at Shannondale nearby on the lawn were consumed. A Springs. In his prospectus, Outline of spoon with "Shannondale Springs" Plan for the Organization and stamped on the handle was rescued from Development of Shenandoah Country the ashes and remains in her Estate and Colonial Country Club at possession.67 Shannondale Springs, Crane proposed erecting an elegant stone clubhouse and selling club memberships that included fifty- by one hundred-foot lots. Memberships, set at two hundred dollars, could be paid in installments. Designed for "those of limited means and who, through force of circumstances, are unable to pay the high cost of membership in the existing Country Clubs," the facility was to Despite the fire, the ferry continued to include extensive recreational facilities operate and visitors frequented the for all members. There is no evidence springs for picnics and religious retreats. that the plan went much further than the A. M. S. Morgan II clearly remembered prospectus. Despite their financial the ferryboat that transported passengers hardships, the Fryes managed to hold on across the river for a nickle or their to the property for more than a decade, buggies for a quarter. For several and in August 1931 they gave Crane a summers the grounds were occupied by lease on the springs' resources. A flyer a group of young men from Washington, published in 1931, probably by Crane, DC, studying to be Catholic priests. advertised five-gallon bottles of They erected tents on the site and had Shannondale Springs water for one 68 their own mess hall. dollar each, claiming it was beneficial On October 1, 1919, Getzendanner and for high blood pressure, rheumatism, his wife Anna sold the resort property "auto intoxication," kidney conditions, and the adjacent farm to E. B. Frye for tuberculosis, eczema, acne, neurasthenia, five hundred dollars. Frye grazed cattle and constipation.71 on the land, attempted to raise sugar Representatives from the West beets, and continued to make what was Virginia Geological Survey who visited 69 left of the resort available to friends. the property in 1936 noted that little of Within a few years, the new owner the original resort remained standing and encountered serious financial problems, that the springs, though still flowing, and in 1923 he mortgaged the property

19 Shannondale Springs were dirty and unprotected. In 1937 Thornton T. Perry Sr. began acquiring portions on the original Shannondale Springs tract, including the resort property.72

20 Shannondale Springs

The Third Era structures on the resort property were still intact - a stone For almost half a century, the springhouse/bathhouse dating from the Shannondale Springs property and much early period of the resort's history and a of the larger Shannondale estate concrete fountain probably dating from remained in the Perry family. In August Getzendanner's renovations in 1903. 1980 Eleanor C. P. Read and T. T. Perry III received title to the Shannondale property through the will of T. T. Perry II. Shortly thereafter, they transferred

The concrete fountain in 2004

The deteriorating springhouse/bathhouse was restored in the summer of 1997 with a grant from the state. The landmarks commission, with a grant from the State Historic Preservation Office, resurveyed the historic boundaries of the resort, collected and analyzed available documentation, identified the locations of many former structures, and prepared a nomination to place Shannondale Springs on the National Register of Historic Places. That nomination was The concrete fountain ca. 1910 approved by the West Virginia Archives and History Commission in February 76 580 acres of the land to the Nature 1998. Conservancy. This property was then Thus far, study of the Shannondale transferred to the state of West Virginia Springs resort has provided important in 1986 and is now administered as a information about the development of hunting and fishing preserve by the West the recreation and tourism industries in Virginia Division of Natural West Virginia and about the culture of Resources.73 the area during the century of the resort's In March 1996 the Jefferson County existence. Its role in Virginia Whig Historic Landmarks Commission politics and local plans for internal obtained a lease from the state on the improvements has yet to be explored portion of the Shannondale Springs fully. Much knowledge may also be property where the resort had been gained through archaeological located.74 At that time, only two investigation and the rediscovery of

21 Shannondale Springs long-forgotten documentation. Perhaps the current interest in the springs will help bring these resources to light so we can understand more about this fascinating part of our past.77

The bathhouse west wall before restoration in 1997

After restoration (2004)

22 Shannondale Springs

Addendum

In 1955, 2500 acres of the mountain above the horseshoe bend was subdivided and named Shannondale (sans ‘Springs’). Soon a lake was formed by damming a nearby creek, and a third Shannondale resort was built on its bank. This resort was not used as a hotel, though nearby cabins were rented. In 2003, it too was destroyed by fire.

23 Shannondale Springs

proprietary after the death of the Footnotes previous agent, Robert Carter, in 1732. Several agents were also employed by 1. This study builds upon the studies of the Fairfaxes, including Col. George T. T. Perry, "Shannondale," address Colville. While performing their duties given to the Jefferson County Historical as agents, Fairfax and Colville acted as Society, 9 August 1940, and reprinted in partners to amass substantial land Magazine of the Jefferson County holdings of their own. The Shannondale Historical Society 7(December 1941): tract appears to have passed from Fairfax 19-22; and Susan E. Winter, "A Short to Colville and back again as part of History of Shannondale Springs," 23 their efforts to arrange an equitable January 1983, unpublished paper. The settlement when their partnership ended. former work, an undocumented lecture, William Fairfax had two sons by his first provides tantalizing references to marriage, George William and Thomas. sources in the author's private collection, Two sons, Bryan and William Henry, many of which have not been and a daughter, Hannah, were the issue authenticated. The second work provides of his second marriage. When Fairfax an extensive record of the property died in 1757, George William succeeded ownership of the entire Shannondale him to the proprietary stewardship. Upon estate, as well as an analysis of the the death of Thomas, Lord Fairfax in newspaper sources available to the 1782, his successor Denny Martin author. Perry's address and Winter's appointed William Fairfax's son Bryan paper, along with many of the Jefferson the steward of the proprietorship. One of County resources cited in this article, are Bryan's sons, Ferdinando, inherited the available in William D. Theriault, Shannondale property from his uncle "Jefferson County Module" of Explorer: George William in 1787. The West Virginia History Database See Jefferson County, WV, Deed Book CD-ROM (Charleston: WV Div. of 1, 290; Stewart E. Brown Jr., Virginia Culture and History, 1996), hereafter Baron: The Story of Thomas 6th Lord referred to as "Jefferson County Fairfax (Berryville, VA: Chesapeake Module," Explorer. Book Co., 1965), 102-03; and Battaile Muse to George Washington, 6 2. Stan Cohen, Historic Springs of the November 1788, in The Papers of : A Pictorial History George Washington, Presidential Series, (Charleston: Pictorial Histories vol. 1, ed. Dorothy Twohig Publishing, 1981), vi-vii. The Berkeley (Charlottesville: Univ. Press of Virginia, Springs were well known by the mid- 1987), 97-98. eighteenth century and had undergone substantial development by the 1780s. 4. George Washington to Bryan Fairfax, See Thomas Marshall Hunter, "Two 6 April 1789, in The Papers of George Famous Springs of Eastern West Washington, Presidential Series, vol. 2, Virginia," West Virginia History ed. Dorothy Twohig (Charlottesville: 6(January 1945): 1932204. Univ. Press of Virginia, 1987), 27-29.

3. William Fairfax was selected by his 5. Fairfax's mortgage of the property in uncle to manage the 1800 notes his residence as "Shannon

24 Shannondale Springs

Hall county of Berkeley." Jefferson 9. Jefferson County Deed Book 8, 67, County Deed Book 1, 290-91. 514; Farmers Repository, 27 March 1812 and 20 August 1817; and National 6. The Charlestown Academy was a Park Service, National Register private school established in 1797 and its Nomination Form for Lee-Longworth supporters included many rich and House. influential landholders. At the age of twenty-one, Ferdinando Fairfax had 10. Description of Ferdinando Fairfax's published an article opposing slavery in Shannondale Iron Estate, 7-8. Although the December 1790 American Museum maps by Charles Varle (1809) and John or Universal Magazine, but by 1800 he Wood (1820) both record Fairfax's owned sixty-two taxable slaves. "The residence, neither shows a ferry or any Wonders of Charles Town: The Crane structure on Horse Shoe Bend, the name House" (n.p., n.d) records that on 1 May first given to the area. See Charles Varle, 1804 Magnus Tate Sr. rented to Map of Frederick, Berkeley, & Jefferson Ferdinando Fairfax "a lot of ground (1 Counties in the State of Virginia acre) in Charlestown on the main street (Philadelphia: Benjamin Jones, whereon is erected a dwelling house and Engraver, 1809); and John Wood, small kitchen...." The town established Jefferson County Surveyed and Drawn in present-thy Jefferson County by under the Direction of John Wood, (n.p., Charles Washington originally was 1820). Both maps clearly depict mills, called Charlestown, although variant ferries, and other industries in the area. spellings were frequent. The name was Varle is silent on Shannondale Springs changed to Charles Town in 1912 to while mentioning Berkeley Springs and distinguish it from Charleston. other local resources in Topographical Description of the Counties of Frederick, 7. Farmers Repository, 2 December Berkeley & Jefferson Situated in the 1808. State of Virginia (Winchester, VA: W. Heiskell, 1810). 8. According to Fairfax, several of the samples received enthusiastic 11. In 1814 the administrators for recommendations. See Description of William B. Paige [Page], deceased, Ferdinando Fairfax 's Shannondale Iron initiated a chancery suit against Fairfax. Estate, with A Plan of a Company for Under the terms of the settlement, issued Improving the Same (Washington, DC: in 1816, Fairfax was obliged to auction J. Crossfield, 1815). See also "Notes on his iron mine tract. The land was Keeptryst Furnace," 23 November 1809, purchased by William Herbert Jr. In R18, vol. 2, 105, Harpers Ferry National April 1817 Fairfax was involved in a Historical Park, Harpers Ferry, WV. chancery suit with George Reynolds, and These notes record "Sale of bellows to F. in September he sold the Short Hill tract Fairfax. Mr. Fairfax requested if he to repay the 1812 mortgage. See might purchase pair of bellows at Jefferson County Deed Book 9, 414-15; Keeptryste Furnace. If they weren't and Farmers Repository, 4 May 1815 needed at the Ferry they might be valued and 30 April 1817. While Faixfax and sold." struggled to stay solvent, Col. Benjamin Beeler in 1816 sold Thomas Griggs Jr.

25 Shannondale Springs

"one undivided third part of a certain Hopkins Univ. Press, 1991), 362. tract . . . extending on both sides of the Thomas Deakin of Harpers Ferry Shenandoah river, . . . containing as is advertised in the 21 June 1820 Farmers supposed 125 acres and 3/4 of an acre." Repository that "he intends keeping neat This land was adjacent to the springs and and substantial hack for hire at Harpers would eventually become part of the Ferry for accommodation of persons resort property. Jefferson County Deed visiting Shannondale Springs." Samuel Book 10, 135. Beeler served in the War Kercheval, History of the Valley of of 1812 from Jefferson County, as did Virginia (Winchester, VA: Samuel H. Griggs and John S. Gallaher. His Davis, 1833), 473274, supports the daughter, Sarah C. Beeler, married belief that the resort opened some time William Arthur Carter in 1824. Mary E. between 1817 and 1821. He notes, "It is Carter, the daughter of William and not much more than twelve or fourteen Sarah, married James T. Milton, whose years since this spring was first resorted father had received title to part of to as a watering place, though it was Shannondale Springs in 1825. See J. E. known for some years before to possess Norris, History of the Lower some peculiar medicinal qualities. . . . A (Chicago: A. Warner company of gentlemen in its and Co., 1890), 624. Griggs served as a neighborhood joined and purchased the member of the Virginia House of site, and forthwith erected a large brick Delegates with Henry Berry in 1835. See boarding house, and ten or twelve small Millard Bushong, Historic Jefferson buildings for the accommodation of County (Boyce, VA: Carr Publishing visitors. For several years it held a high Co., 1972), 572. rank among our watering places." An undated painting of the springs may 12. Jefferson County Deed Book 11, document this phase of its construction. 201, 327; and Farmers Repository, 27 Entitled "A view of the Shannondale September 1820. Springs and the Horse Shoe bend on the Shenandoah River," the scene depicts a 13. [John S. Gallaher], Shannondale: man, woman, and baby sitting on a hill The Quality and Character of the Waters on the north side of the river, possibly at and Their Effects upon Various Diseases Shannon Hill. Behind them, on the south (Charlestown: Free Press Office, 1838), side of the river lies a U-shaped 5. DeButts's analysis of the water collection of one- and two-story revealed the following constituents buildings. No hotel is visible. In the (translated into parts per million by the lower right portion of the picture, the West Virginia Geological Survey): iron road leading to the ferry is shown, as (Fe), 18.5; calcium (Ca), 942.8; well as a structure on the riverbank and a magnesium (Mg), 207.2; sodium (Na), boat crossing the river. This painting is 16.29; carbonate (CO3), 275.8; sulfate in the collection of the Jefferson County (SO4), 2,625.5; and chloride (Cl), 55.9. Museum, Charles Town, WV.

14. Rosalie Stier Calvert, Mistress of 15. See Jefferson County Deed Book 11, Riversdale: The Plantation Letters of 392, 414, 498. The sequence of Rosalie Stier Calvert, 179521821, ed. construction is substantiated by Margaret Law Callcott (Baltimore: Johns

26 Shannondale Springs

Kercheval, History of the Valley of artist of this view of Shannondale Virginia, 473-74. Springs was the father of James Henry To summarize ownership of the property Burton, master armorer at Harpers Ferry, in 1821, the 66+-acre tract containing who was "born of English parents the ferry, "houses," "boarding house," August 17, 1823, at Shannondale and "baths and bath houses," was owned Springs. . . ." Norris, History of the by James L. Ranson (one-ninth), Lower Shenandoah Valley, 612. Thomas Brown (one-ninth), Samuel W. Lackland (one-ninth), and Thomas 18. Jefferson County Deed Book 16, 9, Griggs Jr. (six-ninths). Griggs also 286, 368, 371. Cholera first reached the owned one-third of the adjacent 125-acre area in the summer of 1833 and parcel. The remaining two-thirds of the reappeared sporadically during the next larger tract was owned by James Milton, half century. a relative of Benjamin Beeler, who transferred his ownership of the property 19. Virginia Free Press, 4 June 1835. to Robert Milton in 1825. See Jefferson County Deed Book 14, 490. 20. Jefferson County Deed Book 24, 287. 16. Virginia Free Press, 5 July 1838 and 9 August 1838. The Free Press also 21. James L. Ranson sold his one-ninth noted, "During the administration of Mr. share to the corporation in October 1838. Monroe, the President and the highest See Jefferson County Deed Book 23, officers of the Government made it their 460. He was one of the incorporators of summer retreat." James Monroe may the Smithfield, Charlestown, and have heard of Shannondale from Harpers Ferry Turnpike Company, as Nathaniel Craighill, who then lived on well as a director of the proposed the Shenandoah River near the springs. Alexandria, Loudoun, and Hampshire Craighill and Monroe had been born on Railroad, which had planned to have a adjacent places on Monroe Creek in stop at Shannondale Springs. Acts of the Westmoreland County and grew up there General Assembly of Virginia, 1830 together. See Kercheval, History of the (Richmond: Thomas Ritchie, 1830), 86; Valley of Virginia, 473; and [Gallaher], Spirit of Jefferson, 18 April 1853; and Shannondale: The Quality and Character Virginia Free Press, 22 September 1853. of the Waters, 5. Andrew Kennedy was a prominent lawyer, who later became prosecuting 17. The view of "Shannondale Springs, attorney in the trial of John Brown, and Virginia," was drawn by "C. Burton, one of the directors of the Smithfield, New York," and was engraved and Charlestown, and Harpers Ferry printed by Fenner, Sears, & Co., in Turnpike Company. He was the brother London, 1 September 1831. A 28 May of John Pendleton Kennedy, the author 1823 advertisement in the Farmers and secretary of the navy under Millard Repository noted, "Charles Burton of Fillmore. Robert T. Brown was clerk of Harpers Ferry is to take likenesses in the circuit court for almost fifty years. Charlestown in a few days." C. Burton George W. Hammond was a local justice and Charles Burton are probably the of the peace, the owner of Happy same person. It is also likely that the Retreat, and builder of "Shannon Hall"

27 Shannondale Springs

on the Shenandoah River. William Yates of Shannondale Springs in Henry Howe, sold his interest in the corporation to Historical Collections of Virginia Samuel W. Lackland in May 1839. See (Charleston, SC: Babcock and Co., Jefferson County Deed Book 23, 534. 1845) shows a grove of trees surrounded Richard Parker, then a circuit court by a fence; this is probably a depiction judge for Jefferson County, later of the major (middle) spring. See also presided over John Brown's trial. John S. [Gallaher], Shannondale: The Quality Gallaher was a member of the Virginia and Character of the Waters, 6-11. House of Delegates from 1830-34 and 1842-43, editor of the Virginia Free 26. [Gallaher], Shannondale: The Press, and owner or editor of several Quality and Character of the Waters, 13- other Virginia newspapers. See Jefferson 14. County Deed Book 23, 366; and Norris, History of the Lower Shenandoah 27. Virginia Free Press, 24 August 1848. Valley, 658. The advertisement for the The blacks mentioned in these and later springs placed by the new corporation antebellum descriptions were probably was printed in the Virginia Free Press, slaves who were owned or leased by the 17 May 1838. According to an article in corporation's president, Samuel W. the same issue, the company had a one Lackland. Lackland was listed as owning hundred thousand-dollar line of credit. 28 slaves in the 1850 slave census of Jefferson County and frequently offered 22. Thomas Griggs Jr. was his slaves for rent while the resort was commonwealth's attorney, a veteran of closed during the winter. Other members the , a member of the of the corporation who owned slaves Virginia legislature, a member of the included Andrew Kennedy (19), George Virginia convention of 1829-30 and W. Hammond (6), William Crow (2), 1850-51, and for thirty-six years the and Charles Stewart (3). See Hugh E. president of the Valley Bank of Virginia Vorees and Robert E. Allen, comps., at Charlestown. Norris, History of the "Jefferson County, West Virginia Slave Lower Shenandoah Valley, 658. Census for 1850," Magazine of the Jefferson County Historical Society 23. Virginia Free Press, 17 and 31 May 61(1995): 69. 1838. 28. [Gallaher], Shannondale: The 24. [Gallaher], Shannondale: The Quality and Character of the Waters, 15. Quality and Character of the Waters, 13- 14. 29. Virginia Free Press, 9 August 1838.

25. The layout of this hotel, which 30. Ibid., 21 June 1838. A 17 May Free burned in 1858, matches the layout of Press advertisement for Carter's Hotel, the second hotel built on the same spot immediately following the one for in 1890. George Watterson noted in the Shannondale Springs, notes, "The Virginia Free Press, 24 August 1848, proprietor's engagements at the that all three springs were located in Shannondale Springs will not interfere groves of trees and described the with the arrangements of this House— landscape in some detail. An illustration every department of which will continue

28 Shannondale Springs to be conducted in a manner to insure Virginia. A 9 August 1850 Virginia Free entire satisfaction." Press article supported the belief that water from the springs would prevent 31. Jefferson County Deed Book 23, cholera. The author recalled a C&O 538; and Virginia Free Press, 25 Canal contractor during the 1833 November 1841 and 17 June 1847. epidemic who said none of his workers contracted the disease even though 32. Virginia Free Press, 14 August 1851. hundreds living above and below his section were stricken with it. Both the 33. For a description of the Fourth of writer and the contractor suggested that July celebration, see Virginia Free Press, immunity came from drinking iron-laden 10 July 1851. Tournaments were a water from Shannondale Springs. frequent event at Shannondale and other Virginia Free Press, 25 September 1875, health spas in the area. See Baltimore recounts Southworth's visit. The bowling Herald, 2 August 1848; and Virginia alley is also mentioned in the Virginia Free Press, 18 July 1839 and 17 June Free Press, 24 August 1848. 1841. Additional descriptions of tournaments and balls at Shannondale 37. Emma D. E. N. Southworth, Springs can be found in Virginia Free Shannondale (New York: D. Appleton Press, 28 August 1851 and 11 September and Co., 1851). Thus far, this author has 1851. The 1851 season closed with three found no references to "Lovers' Leap" days of horse racing at the springs. before the publication of Southworth's Virginia Free Press, 9 October 1851. novel. An historically inaccurate article containing references to attempts to 34. President Fillmore, along with revive the property in the mid-1920s was Secretary of War Charles Magill Conrad published in an unidentified newspaper. and Secretary of the Interior Alexander J. P. Cranke, "Shannondale: The H. H. Stuart, had arrived the same week Historic. To Be Modernized and Once at Harpers Ferry, where they had toured More Opened to the Public Through the the armory. According to Windle, Colonial Country Club. Memberships in Conrad's son was present at the dance the Club Can Now Be Secured," in she attended. See Virginia Free Press, 7 "Jefferson County Module," Explorer. August 1851. 38. Virginia Free Press, 14 August 1851. 35. Spirit of Jefferson, 28 May 1847; Howe, Historical Collections of 39. Ibid., 26 August 1847, 9 September Virginia, 342-43; and John J. Moorman, 1847, 22 December 1847, and 3 August The Virginia Springs: Comprising an 1848. Account of All the Principal Mineral Springs of Virginia (Richmond: J. W. 40. Howe's illustration has prompted Randolph, 1857), 257-58. speculation that the hotel had been substantially enlarged by this time. 36. Census of the Population, Seventh According to a 5 July 1838 article in the Census of the United States, 1850 Virginia Free Press: "Owing . . . to some (National Archives Microfilm misunderstanding perhaps, or want of Publication M432), Jefferson County, harmony amongst the proprietors, the

29 Shannondale Springs improvements [in the early 1820s] General Nathan K. Hall to accompany remained half finished, the Fillmore on his visit to Shannondale accommodations became bad and finally Springs suggests the Halls may have none were provided." The new been related. The identity of the black corporation, with capital of one hundred musicians has not been established. They thousand dollars, was making substantial were probably slaves of Samuel W. improvements. Lackland, president of the Shannondale The hotel depicted in the Howe Springs Resort. illustration has twenty evenly spaced windows on the first and second floors, 43. Virginia Free Press, 7 and 14 August with a basement level obscured by an 1851; [Nathan K.] Hall to Hall, Osburn, overhanging porch and the upper story and Co., 26 July 1851, Jefferson County capped by a peaked roof containing ten Museum; and Independent Democrat, 21 evenly spaced dormers. If the August 1860. dimensions reported more than a decade earlier (a two-story structure 44. Brown, Map of Jefferson County. approximately 30 by 90 feet with eight evenly spaced windows) are applied, the 45. Virginia Free Press, 10 August 1854. hotel shown by Howe must have been at The omission of Shannondale and other least 160 feet in length. Rectangular, local springs from a tour book caused a one-story structures are arranged around great deal of consternation in this area, the hotel in a semi-circle; two two-story although it appears not to have adversely barnlike structures are shown to the affected business at the time. One local north, another two-story structure to the writer noted, "Burke, in his book on the northeast of the hotel, and a long, one- Mineral Springs of Virginia, has treated story building further to the northwest on those of the Valley rather cavalierly. He the edge of the woods. A small building extols to the skies, the Warm, Hot, stands on the edge of the river close to Greenbrier, White Sulphur, and others; the ferry landing. S. Howell Brown's but does not give Shannondale, Jordan's, Map of Jefferson County, Virginia Capon or the Berkeley Springs, even a (Philadelphia: J. L. Smith, 1852) passing notice. He heaps praises upon included Howe's illustration. It is not the proprietors of those well known known whether Howe accurately watering places, but acknowledges no depicted the extent of the renovation. acquaintance with the polite and Archaeological investigation of the hotel accomplished hosts of the valuable site is needed to clarify this issue. medicinal Springs of this region. Had he extended his travel to this portion of the 41. Virginia Free Press, 8 and 15 April Valley, previous to writing his book, he 1848. would have found material for a more interesting work, readier sale for it, and a 42. Ibid., 10 February 1877; and Spirit of more extensive circulation. If he will Jefferson, 28 May 1850. The Spirit allow us, we would advise him." See advertisement first appeared on 14 May. Virginia Free Press, 14 August 1851. See also Virginia Free Press, 5 June 1851 and 14 August 1851. An invitation 46. Virginia Free Press, 19 April 1855 from proprietor Hall to Postmaster and 23 May 1855.

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1885; and Jefferson County Deed Book 47. Ibid., 25 March 1858. 5, 64.

48. Ibid., 1 September 1859. 56. Spirit of Jefferson, 9 November 1909. 49. R. P. Chew, Military Operations in Jefferson County Virginia (West 57. Virginia Free Press, 25 June 1890, Virginia) (1910; reprint, Bakerton, WV: and 2 and 9 July 1890. Jefferson County Oral and Visual History Association, Inc., 1992). 58. Ibid., 18 June 1890.

50. Virginia Free Press, 13 June 1867, 59. Ibid., 8 July 1896. 22 June 1872, 5 September 1874, 8 and 22 September 1877, and 12 August 60. Jefferson County Deed Book 91, 1886; and Spirit of Jefferson, 21 June 313-14; and Deed Book 92, 159. 1870, 18 June 1872, and 1 September 1874. 61. Spirit of Jefferson, 17 June 1902. See also Spirit of Jefferson, 15 January 1901. 51. Virginia Free Press, 5 August 1867. Alvin Dohme, Shenandoah: The Valley Moses Ewing rode as the "Knight of Story (Washington, DC: Potomac Shannondale" at a tournament in Rippon Books, 1972), 85, apparently without in June 1870 and an unnamed contestant any documentation, claimed that rode under the same title at a tournament Presidents Hayes, Garfield, and Arthur held at Prospect Park, Brooklyn, that had visited Shannondale Springs. T. T. same year. See Spirit of Jefferson, 14 Perry, in his lecture on Shannondale, June 1870; and Virginia Free Press, 11 mentions the visits of several presidents June 1870. without providing references.

52. Virginia Free Press, 7 and 28 May 62. Spirit of Jefferson, 12 May 1903. See 1868, 11 June 1870, and 22 June 1872; also Spirit of Jefferson, 28 April 1903 and Spirit of Jefferson, 4 October 1870. and 28 July 1903. The property was also offered for sale in 1871. Virginia Free Press, 2 September 63. H. C. Getzendanner, Shannondale 1871; and Jefferson County Land Springs (Washington, DC: W. F. Roberts Assessment Books, 1st and 2d Dist. Co., [1903]), 3.

53. Virginia Free Press, 25 September 64. Ibid., 5. 1875. 65. Ibid., 6-8, 13; Jefferson County Deed 54. Ibid., 10 February 1877. Book 104, 365, 369; A. M. S. Morgan, II, Charles Town, 1912-1924: A Boy's 55. S. Howell Brown, Map of Jefferson Eye-View of Charles Town and its County, West Virginia (Philadelphia: J. People, 15 November 1987, 6, in L. Smith, 1883); Spirit of Jefferson, 27 "Jefferson County Module," Explorer. July 1880; Virginia Free Press, 21 May

31 Shannondale Springs

66. Spirit of Jefferson, 9 November Virginia (Morgantown: WV Geological 1909. Survey, 1936), 13, 71-74; Jefferson County Deed Book 145, 293; Deed 67. Interview by the author, Virginia Book 146, 53-54; Deed Book 147, 521; Koonce Cosy, Hagerstown, MD, 5 Deed Book 149, 29, 205; and Deed March 1997. Book 164, 332.

68. Morgan, Charles Town, 8. 73. Jefferson County Will Book S, 270; and Deed Book 502, 484-86. 69. Jefferson County Deed Book 118, 47; Deed Book 114, 424; and Farmers 74. License Agreement, 18 March 1996, Advocate, 8 and 15 May 1920, 26 June WV Bureau of Commerce, Div. of 1920, 24 July 1920, and 22 July 1922. Natural Resources, Public Land Corporation, to Jefferson County 70. Farmers Advocate, 5 April 1924; and Historic Landmarks Commission. Jefferson County Deed Book 124, 5-6. 75. Preliminary archaeological studies of 71. Jefferson County Deed Book 136, the stone bath/springhouse reveal that 383. [Charles L. Crane] Outline of Plan the original floor lies approximately one for the Organization and Development foot below the current dirt floor. No of Shenandoah Country Estate and water flows through the structure at Colonial Country Club at Shannondale present. It did not house one of the three Springs (n.p., [1924]), 1. According to J. medicinal springs, which have all been P. Cranke, "It is proposed to develop a located several hundred feet distant. A country club on a huge scale, its grounds well lies directly behind the structure to embrace three thousand acres of and includes plumbing once used to mountain, forest and stream. Before the pump water uphill to the hotel. The plan [can] become operative the depth of the building's original floor Chamber of Commerce resolution suggests it may have been used first as a provided that a certain number of bathhouse and then have been modified members, who shall be residents of for use as a springhouse or icehouse. Jefferson County, West Virginia, must Visitors to the springs took warm or cold be secured, and then memberships would baths in addition to drinking the mineral become available for citizens of waters, and the building may have been Washington and Baltimore who may used for this purpose. Although the desire to join the club. The Chamber of structure may predate the construction of Commerce as a body pledged itself to the hotel and outbuildings (ca. 1821), get out and work for the success of the more accurate dating will require further enterprise." See J. P. Cranke, archaeological investigation. "Shannondale: The Historic"; and "Shannondale Springs Water Has Health 76. WV Historic Property Inventory Building Properties" (Charles Town: Form, in "Jefferson County Module," n.p., [1931]). Explorer.

72. Paul H. Price, John B. McCue, and 77. The author wishes to thank the WV Homer A. Hoskins, Springs of West Div. of Culture and History, the WV

32 Shannondale Springs

Div. of Natural Resources, the Jefferson County Museum, the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, and the other individuals and organizations that assisted in information gathering, provided access to artifacts, and helped in survey efforts. In particular, he wishes to thank William D. Hartgroves, whose decade-long crusade raised the community's consciousness about Shannondale Springs and whose efforts helped to raise the local resources needed to complete this project.

William D. Theriault has a Ph.D. in American literature from George Washington University. He is the creator of Explorer: The West Virginia History Database, published by the WV Division of Culture and History and designer of the pilot West Virginia Memory program, an Internet-accessible archive of West Virginia materials. Theriault has published articles in West Virginia History and Goldenseal, as well as a book on eastern Jefferson County.

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