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The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club for the Year 1908

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The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club for the Year 1908 m •3 m: REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION / Digitized by tlie Internet Arcliive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/bookofoldedinbur1190olde THE BOOK OF THE OLD EDINBURGH CLUB FOR THE YEAR 1908 Issued to Members March 1909 THE BOOK OF THE OLD EDINBURGH CLUB FIRST VOLUME EDINBURGH PRINTED BY T. AND A. CONSTABLE FOR THE MEMBERS OF THE CLUB 1908 1766855 CONTENTS PAGE PROVISIONAL LIST OF OLD HOUSES REMAINING IN HIGH STREET AND CANONGATE OF EDIN- BURGH. With a Map. By Bruce J. Home 1 THE EMBALMING OF MONTROSE By John Cameron Robbie 31 THE PANTHEON: AN OLD EDINBURGH DEBATING SOCIETY ... By John A. Fairley 47 SCULPTURED STONES OF OLD EDINBURGH: THE DEAN GROUP. With Illustrations. By John Geddie 77 THE BUILDINGS AT THE EAST END OF PRINCES STREET AND CORNER OF THE NORTH BRIDGE : A CHAPTER IN THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE NEW TOWN OF EDINBURGH By William Cowan 137 INDEX .155 APPENDIX- REPORT OF FIRST ANNUAL MEETING SPEECH BY THE EARL OF ROSEBERY LIST OF MEMBERS, ETC. f PEOVISIONAL LIST OF OLD HOUSES REMAINING IN HIGH STREET AND CANONGATE OF EDINBURGH * Mine own romantic town. O, be his tomb as lead to lead Upon it 's dull destroyer's bead/ Sir Walter Scott. T may be safely affirmed that, since 1860, two-thirds of the ancient buildings in the Old Town of Edinburgh have been demolished. It goes without saying that a large number of those old buildings had necessarily to be removed in the interests of hygiene, and of a healthy recoil from the congested conditions under which our forefathers found themselves constrained to pass their lives. Had these desixable, and indeed indispensable clearances been effected with discrimination, and with a due regard to historic, literary, and aesthetic considerations, there might still have remained ground for a few sentimental regrets; but the common sense of the community would have recognised and accepted the inevitable, and there might have been, even from the standpoint of the artisb and archaeologist, a certain gain from the isolation and added conspicuousness of the more important examples which it had been deemed desirable to retain. Unfortunately, the actual process has been widely different. Destruction, widespread, ruthless, and indiscriminating, has been the rule ; rarely has any consideration beyond the most baldly utilitarian been allowed to influence the decision, and the result is that a large proportion of our most valuable historic and 2 HIGH STEEET AND CANONGATE architectural remains has been irretrievably lost to the city and to posterity. This process, which has gone on practically unchecked for over sixty years, has now reached a point when, if aught of the venerable aspect and romantic interest of our city is to be maintained, an entirely different policy must be inaugurated. A united and vigorous effort must be made to rescue from the hands of the house-wrecking Philistine all that is possible of the few relics which still survive. Failing such effort the fatal * too late ' must be the epitaph of the famous Old Town of Edinburgh. The following attempt to record the existing, or recently existing, ancient buildings may, it is hoped, be of service as a practical basis for such an endeavour at conservation. Beginning at the Esplanade, on the south side stands a building, popularly known as * The Cannon Ball House,' dating from the reign of Charles i. It has survived three sieges, and has been a good deal knocked about and altered, so that its general aspect is more modern, but here and there it bears traces of its antiquity, and its date, 1630, crowns a dormer window on the west side. Its name, 'The Cannon Ball House,' is derived from a bullet said to have been fired from the Castle in 1745 and still sticking in the wall.^ This house exhibits the unique peculiarity of stone grooves above and below the windows for outside sliding shutters. Immediately to the east stands the new Board School, erected nearly twenty years ago on the site of the stately mansion of the Duke of Gordon, governor of the Castle in 1689, the doorway of which, surmounted by the ducal coronet, has been rebuilt into the wall of the School- house at Boswell's Court. To the east of the new Board School stands a handsome old tenement of hewn stone entering from Boswell's Court (so 1 This legend is open to question. ALLAN EAMSAY'S HOUSE 3 named from a medical man there resident at the end of the eighteenth century). A doubtful tradition associates this land with the Earls of Bothwell. These are the only ancient buildings remaining on the south side of Castlehill. On the north side—behind the reservoir —stands a group of houses erected by Professor Patrick Geddes, called Ramsay Garden, and reached from Ramsay Lane. Incorporated in this group we find the oddly shaped house known as * The Guse Pie/ built for himself by Allan Ramsay the poet, and the somewhat later row erected by his son, the painter. These buildings are found in Edgar's Plan, dated 1742. At the east corner of Ramsay Lane we come to ' The Outlook Tower,' the lower portion of which is antique, the upper part raised and remodelled for * Short's Observatory.' This tenement is traditionally associated with the Laird o' Cockpen—not the great magnate who is supposed to have inspired Lady Nairne's lyric, but the more obscure proprietor who had been a boon- companion of Charles ii. in his days of adversity, and having consequently been deprived of his patrimony, recovered his lands by playing the old Scots tune *Brose and Butter' as a voluntary in the Chapel Royal, St. James's, in presence of the King, subsequent to the Restoration. Eastward from * Outlook Tower,' and standing considerably back from the street, is the southern part of a good old house known as ' Lord Sempills House.' The father or grandfather of this nobleman married Mary Livingstone, one of the 'Four Maries.' Between the gable of this house and the street front extends a row of ancient buildings, but the house facing the street is modern. This exhausts the list of ancient houses on the north side of Castle- hill, but it may be worthy of note that the modern buildings of the United Free Church College, extending from this point to Milne's Court, almost exactly cover the site of the ancient group of buildings known as Mary of Guise's Palace. On the same (north) side of the street, and immediately east 4 HIGH STREET AND CANONGATE of the United Free Church College, stands a very large building of hewn stone forming the front of a courtyard—the whole erected by Robert Milne (builder of the newer Holyrood), and dating from 1690. These erections form one of the very earliest efforts at ' City Improvement.' On the east side of the quad- rangle stands an old house, evidently of earlier date than Milne's tenements. Milne's Court commences the Lawnmarket. Still proceeding eastward, we come to James's Court, with three separate entrances, the buildings surmounting which are all modern. Inside the court on the north side stands a very stately group of buildings, the western half of which is modern. The eastern half, however, dates from 1727, and is associated with the memories of many eminent citizens of the eighteenth century—among others, David Hume, James Boswell, and his guest Dr. Samuel Johnson, Dr. Blair, etc. A portion of the more ancient buildings, a survival from several closes removed to form this early sample of * City Improvement,' bounds the court to the east. Passing James's Court and its modern frontage, we reach a very picturesque old house known as ' Gladstone's Land,' where may still be seen the last example of the Arcades, once an almost universal feature in old Edinburgh streets. In the courtyard behind it we find the ancient mansion known as ' Lady Stair's House,' lately restored by Lord Rosebery. On the north side of same courtyard stands a fine old land lately restored and utilised as a University Hall, and on the east side of the court are several ancient buildings, the fronts of which look into High Street and Bank Street. This exhausts the list of old houses on north side of Lawnpaarket. Returning on the south side to the West Bow, we find the upper part of that most interesting street entirely modernised, the new buildings extending for some small distance down the Lawnmarket. The tenements at the old Bow-Head— most characteristic and striking examples of ancient Edinburgh archi- tecture—were unnecessarily and most unfortunately demolished f DAVID HUME'S HOUSE 5 by civic authority in 1878—an irreparable loss to the anti- quities of the city. Immediately below the new houses we find two tall and stately tenements of late Stuart style ; next to them comes a more antique and very picturesque edifice with two characteristic dormers and a tall turret stair ; next we have the only antique timber-fronted house remaining in the Lawn- market, with a large and very effective gable ; and finally, a stone-built land of many stories which runs into and is incor- porated with the new-fronted buildings facing Melbourne Place. Between the Bow and Melbourne Place, and behind the tenements above described, many interestiDg survivals are still to be found. On entering Hiddle's Court we find an outer area, on the right-hand side of which stands the large turnpike stair which gave access to the first abode in Edinburgh tenanted by David Hume.^ South of the stair of Hume's house is the arched entrance to the exceedingly quaint and picturesque inner court contain- ing a fine old mansion with wainscotted walls and decorated plaster ceilings, the abode of Bailie Macmorran, a city magnate of the days of Queen Mary and James vi.
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