SHOULD YOU GO VEGAN? SPORTING TRACKS APRIL 2019 the Alt Fad That Became a Worldwide Movement a ROMA GUIDE to MEXICO CITY

ATLANTA MAKES SHOULD YOU GO VEGAN? SPORTING TRACKS APRIL 2019 The alt fad that became a worldwide movement A ROMA GUIDE TO MEXICO CITY

OS_042019.P01_Cover.indd 1 3/21/19 2:43 PM OS_DPS_Template.inddAP DP SI PASSIONE OPEN 2 SKIES 390x260+DCC2X7mm_UAE.indd 2 04/03/20193/25/19 3:03AP 11:05 DP PM SI PASSIONE OPEN SKIES 390x260+DCC2X7mm_UAE.indd 3 04/03/2019 11:06 AP DP SI PASSIONE OPEN SKIES 390x260+DCC2X7mm_UAE.indd 2 04/03/2019AP 11:05 DP SI PASSIONEOS_DPS_Template.inddAP DP SI OPEN PASSIONE SKIES OPEN 390x260+DCC2X7mm_UAE.indd 3 SKIES 390x260+DCC2X7mm_UAE.indd 3 3 04/03/2019 04/03/201911:063/25/19 3:03 11:06 PM maxx royal - LHP.pdf 1 3/19/19 2:28 PM maxx royal - LHP.pdf 2 3/19/19 2:28 PM

C C

M M

Y Y

CM CM

MY MY

CY CY

CMY CMY

K K

OS_DPS_Template.indd 4 3/25/19 2:54 PM maxx royal - LHP.pdf 1 3/19/19 2:28 PM maxx royal - LHP.pdf 2 3/19/19 2:28 PM

C C

M M

Y Y

CM CM

MY MY

CY CY

CMY CMY

K K

OS_DPS_Template.indd 5 3/25/19 2:54 PM turkey tourism - LHP.pdf 1 3/19/19 2:35 PM turkey tourism - LHP.pdf 2 3/19/19 2:35 PM

C C

M M

Y Y

CM CM

MY MY

CY CY

CMY CMY

K K

OS_DPS_Template.indd 6 3/25/19 2:56 PM turkey tourism - LHP.pdf 1 3/19/19 2:35 PM turkey tourism - LHP.pdf 2 3/19/19 2:35 PM

C C

M M

Y Y

CM CM

MY MY

CY CY

CMY CMY

K K

OS_DPS_Template.indd 7 3/25/19 2:56 PM savills - LHP.pdf 1 3/21/19 10:51 AM savills - LHP.pdf 2 3/21/19 10:51 AM

C C

M M

Y Y

CM CM

MY MY

CY CY

CMY CMY

K K

OS_DPS_Template.indd 8 3/25/19 3:00 PM savills - LHP.pdf 1 3/21/19 10:51 AM savills - LHP.pdf 2 3/21/19 10:51 AM

C C

M M

Y Y

CM CM

MY MY

CY CY

CMY CMY

K K

OS_DPS_Template.indd 9 3/25/19 3:00 PM indonesia tourism - LHP.pdf 1 3/19/19 2:12 PM indonesia tourism - LHP.pdf 2 3/19/19 2:12 PM

C C

M M

Y Y

CM CM

MY MY

CY CY

CMY CMY

K K

OS_DPS_Template.indd 10 3/25/19 3:02 PM indonesia tourism - LHP.pdf 1 3/19/19 2:12 PM indonesia tourism - LHP.pdf 2 3/19/19 2:12 PM

C C

M M

Y Y

CM CM

MY MY

CY CY

CMY CMY

K K

OS_DPS_Template.indd 11 3/25/19 3:02 PM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MANAGING PARTNER EDITORIAL & GROUP EDITOR DIRECTOR OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER IAN FAIRSERVICE GINA JOHNSON [email protected]

EDITOR SENIOR ART ART DIRECTOR DIRECTOR GEORGINA LAVERS OLGA PETROFF CLARKWIN CRUZ [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

SENIOR DIGITAL EDITORIAL WEB DEVELOPER ANIMATOR ASSISTANT FIROZ KALADI SURAJIT DUTTA LONDRESA FLORES [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS Iain Akerman; Emma Coiler; Ben East; Sarah Freeman; Sarah Gamboni; Alice Holtham; Dom Joly; Emily Manthei; Conor Purcell; Reverend Andrew Thompson Front cover: Maurizio Di Iorio

GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION CHIEF COMMERCIAL GROUP SALES PRODUCTION MANAGER OFFICER MANAGER SUNIL KUMAR R MURALI KRISHNAN ANTHONY MILNE MICHAEL UNDERDOWN [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION SENIOR SALES MANAGER MANAGER BINU PURANDARAN MURALI NARAYANAN [email protected] [email protected]

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES EDITOR DEPUTY EDITOR MANNA TALIB CATHERINE FREEMAN

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND Okeeffe Media; Tel +61 412 080 600, [email protected] CHINA Newbase, Tel +86 21 6141 3871, [email protected] CYPRUS Enigma Advertising, Tel +357 26 811062, [email protected] INDIA Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, [email protected] JAPAN Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, [email protected] NETHERLANDS giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, [email protected] BENELUX, SWITZERLAND, FRANCE/ITALY & SPAIN IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, [email protected] TURKEY Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, [email protected] UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, [email protected] USA World Media Inc; Tel: +1 212 244 5610, [email protected]

Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: [email protected] Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

OS_042019.P12-17_FrontSection.indd 12 3/21/19 2:50 PM

Subscribe via My Etisalat UAE App or dial *177# CONTENTS

APRIL 2019

56 DUBAI

The ethical dilemma A scientific case for clean eating 56

19 73 GLOBAL EMIRATES

Tony Blackburn The radio legend on “ruining soul” 62

Expo 2020 On including every kind Experience 20 Latest news 74 of visitor 66 Stay: Palatial accommodation, from the Inside Emirates 76 Oman’s summit to London glamour 22 Destination: Glasgow 78 LitFest Dom Joly on Sarajevo’s delights 30 UAE Smart Gate 80 A festival of thought, Dispatch: Atlanta, football heroes 32 Route maps 82 and action 68 Neighbourhood: Lavapiés, Madrid 36 The fleet 88 Art beyond vision 44 Celebrity directions: the Roma guide to A Year of Tolerance The sounds of Helsinki 50 Mexico City 90 70

OS_042019.P12-17_FrontSection.indd 15 3/21/19 4:05 PM A cutting-edge public library located in Al Watan Palace in Abu Dhabi, this new landmark houses a large collection of titles about the United Arab Emirates, along with a plethora of knowledge, research and entertainment sources, and unique reading experiences using the latest technology.

Qasr Al Watan Library: Where the Future of Knowledge Begins!

Qasr Al Watan Library is open from 11 March 2019

For more information, visit visitabudhabi.ae 17

EDITOR’S NOTE

BOTH FEET IN THE DOOR

To encourage people out into the world, institutions ranging from stadiums to galleries are waking up to the fact that they must shake things up. In Berlin: “Anyone who has ever visited a museum knows the urge to touch artworks: here that becomes reality” says Berlinische Galerie. The art gallery spent two years creating tactile models made of felt, wood and fabric, so that their visually impaired art lovers might be able to experience modernism or abstraction through touch. Emily Manthei spent some time with visitors to get their first impres- sions on p44, and to see if this might be the beginning of art that speaks to every sense, and guest. In Atlanta, a city perhaps not revered for its sporting prowess, a combination of marketing savvy and young talent has brought about real change, says Conor Purcell on p32. By drafting in players from Ecua- dor and Venezuela, Atlanta United made the city the epicentre of Major League Soccer, as well as raising a generation of devoted fans. The team’s owner, Arthur Blank, made some drastic choices too in their home stadium: slashing food prices in half, widening the seats, putting on karaoke and giveaways in a ‘Power Hour’ before games. The sport brought a wave of new and devoted fans, as well as putting the city back on the sporting map. Marketing tactics? Maybe. But for whatever motive, the more people that go catch a game, visit a gallery, sit in a jazz club – the more vibrant our cities will be. FOLLOW US Georgina Lavers, facebook.com/ Editor openskiesmag

twitter.com/ openskiesmag

instagram.com/ openskiesmag

OS_042019.P12-17_FrontSection.indd 17 3/21/19 2:50 PM sharjah tourism.pdf 1 3/19/19 3:15 PM

CMY

K Global

EXPERIENCE ° STAY ° DISPATCH ° NEIGHBOURHOOD ° MUSEUM ° JAZZ PHOTO: BRETT REEVES BRETT PHOTO:

Wildean glamour A discreet entrance on Southampton Row conceals the ornithological artistry within L’oscar hotel – recently reimagined by Jacques Garcia of La Mamounia. p24

OS_042019.P19_GlobalOpener.indd 19 3/21/19 2:52 PM 20 / GLOBAL / EXPERIENCE

KEUKENHOF, APRIL-MAY The gardener to seven million blooms Keukenhof is one of the most spectacular gardens in the world. Open for just two months in the spring, there are over 800 varieties of tulips. Celebrating its 70th edition this year, gardener Andre Beijk explains the power of flowers

Why do you think Keukenhof has become I would imagine the spring bulb flowers Yes, on a sunny, warm day you can ex- such a unique experience? like tulips, hyacinths and daffodils, as al- perience this amazing smell throughout Obviously the flower displays are amaz- ways. But there is so much more to Keu- the park. The funny thing is, you don’t ing. But more than that, I think people kenhof than that actually. I say to people exactly know where it is coming from see Keukenhof as the signal that winter in the city “you live so close, why have and you can see people sticking their is at an end. It’s been cold, it might have you not been to Keukenhof”, and they noses in the air! Along with the look of snowed, and then people come here and tell me they can see flowers everywhere the flowers and the sound of the birds feel spring has come. There’s a sense of they go. When they finally get here tweeting, it all comes together to make nature coming to life again and people they’re surprised by what else there is you feel, wow, I’m in a good spot here. run to that after winter time. – grasses, flower shows in the pavilions, I’m in the right place. Has social media affected its popularity? sculpture, live music, exhibitions, boat This year the theme is Flower Power. Is We say on our website that some areas of trips. It’s a pretty special place. it a nod to the 1960s movement? the garden are very Instagrammable and And what’s your favourite flower this year? In the garden we have a few changes – I do think that social media has made a Some of the tulip varieties this year have we’ve got some areas and flower designs huge difference in the last five years. It’s this deep yellow colour. They’re strong, which reference Flower Power. But Keu- interesting, how we are seen on social they look great, they feel like a smile in a kenhof is about celebrating the impor- media has somewhat changed the gar- flower, to me. And they smell like real tu- tance flowers have in people’s lives. I dens we design – we have to make them lips. I know that sounds strange, but not believe flowers do have a power to change work as images that will be shared online. all tulips have a good smell. the way you feel about your life in an What do you imagine will be the most So how Keukenhof smells is important individual moment. ‘liked’ images this year? to you, too? Lisse, The Netherlands. keukenhof.nl/en

Andre Beijk believes flowers can change the way you feel about your life

OS_042019.P20-21_Experience_ThePlan.indd 20 3/21/19 4:06 PM 11-13 APRIL MIDDLE EAST FILM & COMIC CON Fuelled by the never-ending enthusiasm for superhero films, the multi-billion dollar comic-con industry has spread to the Middle East with MEFCC, where superheroes and superfans of comics, television series, movies, anime and manga all come together in one extravagant celebration of pop culture. The big draws this year will be Katie Cassidy Rodgers (Arrow), Mike Colter (Marvel’s Luke Cage) and Ross Marquand (The Walking Dead) – but the fans’ exuberant costumes take equal billing. Dubai, UAE. mefcc.com HK RUGBY UNION HK RUGBY LASH RYAN

APRIL 5-7 APRIL 8-13 APRIL 15-19

HONG KONG SEVENS SNOWBOMBING TED 2019 The short sided version of interna- When a group of dance music fans TED conferences have become so tional rugby union has gone from first envisaged a Glastonbury in the influential (and ubiquitous), it’s easy strength to strength in recent years, snow, they probably didn’t expect it to forget they were initially set up to and Hong Kong is the place where would draw dance music fans to the discuss technology, entertainment this game really took off. It’s a so- ski slopes of Austria 20 years later. and design. The theme of this year’s cial as well as sporting event, with a But the combination of igloo parties, annual event is ‘Bigger Than Us’, gig from Gwen Stefani alongside in- winter sports, and big beats makes it with everyone from actor Joseph tense action on the pitch: the top four a unique festival. Headliners this year Gordon-Levitt to strategic advisor teams in World Rugby Sevens Series include Stormzy and Fatboy Slim. Priya Parker exploring ideas that will qualify for next year’s Olympics. Mayrhofen, Austria. inspire wonder and creativity. Hong Kong, China. hksevens.com snowbombing.com Vancouver, Canada. ted2019.ted.com

OS_042019.P20-21_Experience_ThePlan.indd 21 3/21/19 4:07 PM 22 / GLOBAL / WHERE TO STAY

MUSCAT 23.5859° N, 58.4059° E PRICE: FROM US$632 PER NIGHT

A peaceful Omani stay, IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD where privacy is valued above all For those looking to explore outside of the hotel, the Sultan Qaboos Mosque is a short taxi ride away and is open every Serai style morning except for Friday. De- spite its grandeur – with an 8.5 WORDS: GEORGINA LAVERS tonne chandelier and ornate mosaic work throughout – the atmosphere is casual, and visitors are free to explore most of the buildings.

On a blustery January morning, a flock of immersion, where the only coming and gulls are seemingly the only visitors to a going of visitors is guests hopping from private beach in Muscat. cabana to spa, pool to tennis court. The scene is one of wild beauty. Birds Asian elements such as small square pools blast through the thermals; foaming waves dotted symmetrically throughout the prop- pound the coastline. erty meld seamlessly with Omani influence, But just over the dunes off this 370-metre seen in factors that include staff – many locals strip, tranquility reigns. This is the home of work on the property – as well as aesthetic. Chedi Muscat: the Omani offering from the Rooms range from the more modest GHM group synonymous for its select offer- serai, with pool and city views, to private MUSCAT ing of properties and Asian design elements. villas off the beach, each equipped with its One of the few premier properties in Mus- own sunken bathtub and private terrace. A cat, the Chedi has – unusually for the capital unique touch is the infinity lap pool, which – its own private beach, and this emphasis on is twice the length of an Olympic pool. Even calmness and privacy echoes throughout. the gym feels intimate, with carved wooden Children are only allowed at one of the dividers offering privacy for those wanting pools, and all three are the deepest allowed to try out the Pilates machine. before needing lifeguards, allowing for an Though the vibe is elegant, guests are uninterrupted paddle. relaxed. As night falls, bright whites are The hotel does not offer day passes to replaced by flickering lanterns, and the lick its pool or beach, and grants few outside of flames from the firepit, where guests cong- Emirates operates daily reservations for its eight restaurants and regate to watch the sunset. It’s peaceful, flights to Muscat with the lounges. The resulting feeling is one of total serene – and everything a getaway should be. Boeing 777-300ER.

OS_042019.P22_Stay_ChediMuscat.indd 22 3/21/19 2:57 PM

24 / GLOBAL / WHERE TO STAY

LONDON 51.5074° N, 0.1278° W PRICE: FROM US$510 PER NIGHT

A former Baptist Church in Bloomsbury’s historic TAKE A PEW For seasonal British fare in Holborn gets a flamboyant facelift more ecclesiastical surround- ings, make a reservation at the Baptist Grill. Michelin-starred Tony Fleming whips up dish- A theatrical turn es in the former chapel that include coal-roasted beetroot WORDS: SARAH FREEMAN salad and rose veal neck with rosemary, anchovy and lemon. IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD In a city the size of London, location is everything. As well as a coveted address on fashionable Southampton Row, L’oscar is just a whisper from lively Covent Garden’s pedes- trianised piazza, the British Museum and Russell Square – a welcome oasis of greenery in central. Fittingly, the theatre district is also on the doorstep, as well as high culture hub, the Royal Opera House and (for lit-lovers) the Charles Dickens Museum.

With no visible signage, the low-key en- The influence of Irish-born playwright trance to London’s newest 5-star hotel, Oscar Wilde, the hotel’s muse, comes to the L’oscar, lets its neo-baroque interior do the fore in its guestrooms. Adorned with chaise talking. Derelict for over a decade, the Grade lounges, antique gilt mirrors and more tassels II-listed building has been reimagined than a Victorian drapery store, peacock-feath- by pre-eminent French interior designer er panels complete the decadent look. Jacques Garcia, of Paris’ Hôtel Costes and Every Garcia hotel has an animal motif, La Mamounia fame. and L’oscar is no different. Birds and but- Garcia has brought bohemian excess terflies take whimsical flight in the form of to every corner of L’oscar’s central London hand-painted peacock plates and Lalique address, from its velvet-clad lobby to the 39 crystal butterfly taps in the bathrooms. Be- boudoir-esque bedrooms. spoke his and her toiletries are courtesy of LONDON Thankfully, its turn-of-the-century feel master perfumer Roja Dove, who was tasked isn’t lost under all those drapes of damask. with creating two new scents for the hotel. Original heritage features like the grand Everything from umbrellas to champagne staircase (now illuminated by a cascad- coupes (and toilets!) has been custom-made. ing chandelier of glass birds), Royal Doul- A sultry space in the evening is be- ton-tiled fireplaces and stained glass win- neath the mirrored ceiling of the ground Starting 1st July Emirates dows have been painstakingly restored by floor’s Café L’oscar, inspired by the décor of will launch a second daily flight from Dubai to London scores of master craftsmen. Overseen by na- Venice’s iconic Caffè Florian. A French-in- Stansted. The additional tional charity English Heritage, the building flected menu of rabbit and potato gratin flight means that Emirates underwent a six-year, US$50m refurbish- or buttermilk fried baby chicken makes for customers will now have ment, which involved the addition of two comfort food par excellence. I’m quite sure 11 daily flight options to and more storeys to its original five. Wilde would have approved. from three London airports.

OS_042019.P24_Stay_London.indd 24 3/21/19 2:59 PM Untitled-4.pdf 1 3/18/19 3:43 PM

CMY

K 26 / GLOBAL / WHERE TO STAY

HỘI AN 15.8801° N, 108.3380° E PRICE: FROM US$180 PER NIGHT

A stay that delivers innovative dining, local art and plenty of tropical allure in Vietnam’s most enchanting city, Hôi An Riverside beauty WORDS: SARAH FREEMAN ART MEETS TECH Making its contribution to Hội An’s thriving creative scene is the resort’s new art and dining concept space, where you can dine on wood-fired oven pizza and grilled spiny lobster, with a side of local art. Its curator is acclaimed British artist Bridget March, who has brought candid Viet- namese street photography, Fauvist-style landscapes and portraits by acclaimed French photographer Réhahn Cro- quevielle to the venue’s bare- brick walls. The dessert plates are equally creative, thanks to a 3D food printer (Vietnam’s first and only one), which magic’s up edible Japanese Brid- ges and Mondrian paintings.

IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD Aside from its Chinese Tem- ples, colonial-styled houses They say location is everything, but so too plate of beef salad. The romance is taken up a and 18th-century Japanese is being cocooned from the hustle and bus- notch at night, when clusters of glowing paper Bridge, Hội An’s old town is tle of the city. Striking this balance with lanterns carrying wishes, float on by. where you’ll find some of aplomb is Anantara H i An Resort, a mini Local Vietnamese design elements com- the city’s best art, traditional oasis nestled on the fringes of the Vietnam- bine with French and Japanese heritage in food and tailoring. Check out ese city’s ancient quarter. a cohesive mix, from exposed timber in the Réhahn’s gallery-slash-muse- Ninety-four rooms and suites are split Lanterns restaurant to airy guestrooms with um to see fine art photography and traditional dress between two terracotta-roofed buildings shuttered French windows and ceiling fans. from the country’s 54 minor- that wrap round a palm-shaded square pool. An elegant balustrade divides the split-level ity tribes. Then try the city’s Its hanging vines, fragrant herb garden living-bedroom area, flanked by a mosaic signature dish, Cao lầu, made and frangipani trees may transport you to bathroom with rain shower, and luxurious with water sourced from a some faraway tropical land, but local life and house brand products. local ancient well, at no-frills culture remain within arm’s reach. A public Sealing the deal are the rooms’ wide porch- Cao lầu Không Gian Xanh. promenade separates the resort from the Thu es – Anantara’s refined take on the street-side Ready to get measured up? At Kimmy Tailor’s, you don’t Bon River, where sampans (Chinese wooden hammocks locals sling up for their daily siesta. just come home with a new boats) putter downstream and buffalo lazi- Endowed with plaster-cast cushioned day- suit – you’re assigned a per- ly graze on its banks. A sweet spot to watch beds, they’re the only place to spend a languid sonal style guide and get to this bucolic scene unfold is the terrace of the afternoon with a dog-eared book and lemon- visit its factory, located just resort’s H i An Riverside Restaurant, over a grass iced tea, gazing out over the river. one block away.

OS_042019.P26-27_Stay_Vietnam.indd 26 3/21/19 3:01 PM Hội An, known as the city of 1,000 lanterns

HỘI AN

Emirates flies to 13 destinations in South East Asia including Hanoi.

OS_042019.P26-27_Stay_Vietnam.indd 27 3/21/19 3:01 PM 28 / GLOBAL / WHERE TO STAY

RAS AL KHAIMAH 25.6741° N, 55.9804° E PRICE: FROM US$225 PER NIGHT

There’s more than meets the eye to this regal FROM THE CONCIERGE resort in the Northern-most emirate Via Ferrata Inject some adventure into your stay at the Via Ferra- ta. Traverse more than 1km Kings on the coast along a mountain route that combines climbing, hiking and WORDS: ALICE HOLTHAM ziplining off the UAE’s highest peak, Jebel Jais.

Wadi Showka The Wadi Showka trail takes hikers across part of the Hajar Mountains so expect a pretty epic – and elevated – climb. For the most part, it’s a clearly defined route and as you climb, be sure to look out for Showka Pools – they’re perfect for cooling off in.

Suwaidi Pearl Farm Nestled off the coast of Al Rams, a sleepy fishing village on the northern tip of Ras Al Khaimah, Suwaidi Pearls keeps a 7,000-year tradition alive. The pearl farm educates visitors on the history of pearl diving, as well as guiding guests through the activities of a working pearl farm.

As you enter into the arabesque lobby of the a balcony to enjoy them alfresco. Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah – only to be The resort is expansive, featuring a la- swiftly greeted by your very own personal goon-sized swimming pool, luxury spa, no concierge – the tone is set for a luxury stay less than nine restaurants and adjacent to in this relaxing emirate. an 18-hole golf course – meaning you never The first Waldorf hotel to open in the have to leave the property, should you not United Arab Emirates, in 2013, the property wish to. However, an array of restaurants and has since transformed the quiet beachfront bars can be found a short walk from the hotel of Al Hamra into a glittering 346-room, in Al Hamra village, from a traditional Eng- RAS AL KHAIMAH Arabian palace. lish pub to a candlelit beachfront restaurant. Though originally an American brand – If time allows, take a trip to the nearby its flagship property is in New York – the ge- Hajar mountains, which serve as a stun- ography of the UAE defines the design, from ning backdrop to limitless hiking trails and the Arabic calligraphy in the majilis-style adventure sports just a 45-minute drive lobby, to mother-of-pearl accents that run from the resort. throughout – a nod to the country’s rich After a day of either pool or adven- pearl diving history. ture, few places are better to retire to than The rooms are breathtaking; all are Siddharta Lounge by Buddha Bar, a six- Planning a visit to Dubai? generous sizes, with luxury furnishings in month beachfront pop-up at the hotel. By Press the “i” button on the pale blue and beige silks so beloved in day, guests lounge poolside tucking into an your screen to discover the country. Sea view rooms grant you a Asian fusion menu, while by night the air more about Dubai’s at- front-row seat to spectacular evening sun- pulses with lively house beats, as the sun tractions, shopping, din- sets, and it is worth upgrading to one with sets over the Arabian Gulf. ing and events.

OS_042019.P28_Stay_WaldorfRAK.indd 28 3/21/19 3:03 PM four seasons.pdf 1 3/19/19 3:15 PM

CMY

K 30 / GLOBAL / COLUMN

SARAJEVO

43.8563° N, 18.4131° E

Dark tourism in Sarajevo Cast off any Sarajevo. It’s a name that is synonymous, craters are still visible in much of the city, but preconceptions, in most people’s minds, with a bitter civil local artists have painted petals round them says Dom Joly – war and a brutal siege. What it should be and filled the holes with red resin, turning however, is your next go-to destination as I them into the so-called Sarajevo Roses. Sarajevo should honestly think it’s currently the most inter- I wandered down the Appel Quay that be on your Europe esting city in Europe. runs through the middle of the city along- I got there by flying to Dubrovnik in Cro- side the Miljacka River. I was looking for a bucketlist atia and then doing a leisurely road trip up particular corner; Franz Josef Street, where the Dalmatian coast and into Bosnia-Herze- Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassina- govina. I stopped off in Mostar, a beautiful ted in 1914, an event that eventually precip- little town, most famous for her gorgeous old itated World War One. Ottoman bridge built in 1566. The bridge was After a five-minute walk I got there. I intentionally destroyed by Croatians in the stood on the very spot where the Serb as- war. Fortunately, it has been meticulously sassin, Gavrilo Princip, had been sitting rebuilt and I was thrilled to see that the im- forlornly in a café, thinking that his chance pressive tradition of local youth diving off the to kill the Archduke had gone after one of twenty metres high apex had resumed. I was his associates had clumsily thrown a bomb sorely tempted to give it a go, but my goal was that bounced off the car and exploded un- the Bosnian capital – Sarajevo. After another derneath it. The Archduke and his wife had three hours driving through almost Alpine been unhurt and driven fast to the town hill country, I rolled into town. hall. Now they were on their way to the Sarajevo is very much where the shift- train station to get the hell out of Dodge. ing tectonic plates of the Muslim East and Unfortunately for them, their driver took Christian West meet. Church spires vie with a wrong turn, stopped, and was reversing minarets to dominate the skyline. Sadly, it back onto the Quay right in front of Princip. was this heady, religious ratatouille that, He stood up and shot them both dead. mixed with a rise in supra-nationalism, The most extraordinary fact of the was the cause of the conflict that over-ran whole affair? The number plate of the car in the city and the country in the mid-Nine- which they were riding. It was so extraordi- ties. Sarajevo sits in a valley surrounded by nary that I didn’t believe it at first and had mountains and it was from these that Serb to travel to Vienna to see the car and check. flydubai operates a codeshare gunners besieged the city for 1,425 days. It was A 11 11 18. The 11th of November, 1918 service with Emirates to over 84 destinations including non- This experience has given Sarajevo some was the last day of Wold War One. Some- stop flights between Dubai unusual tourist attractions that are like a times travel really does throw up the most and Sarajevo. magnet for a Dark Tourist like myself. Mortar wonderful nuggets of trivia.

OS_042019.P30_Column_DomJoly.indd 30 3/21/19 3:04 PM Experience the Quality and Originality

Visit us at

Sheikh Saeed Hall 3 15th - 17th April 2019 Dubai turkishcosmetics.org OS_042019.P32-35_Dispatch_Atlanta_notile.indd 32 3/25/19 3:05 PM GLOBAL / DISPATCH / 33

This American city hadn’t seen a major sporting victory in over two decades. It took one English sport – and a devoted fanbase – to change that

WORDS: CONOR PURCELL How Atlanta rebooted the MLS

It was, in the end, the most unlikely of victories. A team less than two years old, based in a city with no soccer heritage to speak off, winning the Major League Soccer (MLS) Cup. Equally surprising is that it did so with record attendances, a young, multicultural squad and some of the most passionate fans in the division. Atlanta United’s MLS Cup victory last December is even more impressive when you consider the city’s recent sporting history is one littered with near misses and painful failures. This is a city that hadn’t won anything in any sport since the Atlanta Braves won the 1995 World Series – a gap of 23 years. Only two years Jubilant ago, the city’s NFL team, the Atlanta celebration Falcons, threw away a 28-3 lead over the after the MLS New England Patriots in the 2017 Super Cup Final Bowl. Before that, the Atlanta Braves lost between a two game lead in the 1996 World Series. Atlanta United Typical Atlanta, rival fans crowed. and Portland Timbers, That narrative was rewritten on a in December freezing December night in front of 2018 73,000 delirious fans. The victory, over

OS_042019.P32-35_Dispatch_Atlanta_notile.indd 33 3/25/19 3:05 PM 34 / GLOBAL / DISPATCH

(1)

(2)

(3)

the Portland Timbers was, in the end, home of the civil rights movement, higher than the attendance at the past relatively routine. Atlanta settled any billed in the 60s as the “city too busy to four Super Bowls. nerves in the 38th minute when star hate.” In the 70s, the city pioneered af- That is reflected in the excitement striker Josef Martinez pounced on a firmative action in industry, ushering around the MLS right now. Los Ange- sloppy back pass and rounded the Port- in a new wave of black millionaires. The les FC became the league’s 23rd team land keeper. Atlanta sealed victory in 90s saw the Olympics put the city on last year, while Cincinnati will join in the second half when their best player, the world map, an South Coast hip hop 2019, followed by Miami and Nashville Miguel Almiron (since moved to New- make waves. In short, not a city where in 2020. There are as many as 10 other castle United in a record US$28 million ‘soccer’ – which has largely taken root cities, including front-runners Austin, transfer) converted from a tight angle. only among Latino residents – would Phoenix, St. Louis, and San Diego look- Cue bedlam in the stands. have a chance to succeed. ing to join the league. That Atlanta’s victory came as a Yet Atlanta’s victory was not just one “Every now and again you have surprise, isn’t all that surprising. It has for the city, but for the MLS as a whole. something that happens that shocks always been an overlooked city. A local It showed that the league could generate you,” the MLS Commissioner Don Gar- journalist wrote after the MLS victory: a buzz outside the traditional hot spots ber said. “Seattle was the first example “Will America finally acknowledge At- of New York and California. Atlanta av- of that. What’s happening in Atlanta lanta as the international, world-class eraged 53,000 per game last season, a continues to astound me.” city it is?” That remains to be seen. figure most Premier League clubs would Of course, some of this needs to be Atlanta has always prided itself kill for. Its final match saw more than taken with a pinch of salt. Atlanta, led by on being different, especially from its 73,000 fans pile into the Mercedes-Benz its billionaire owner Arthur Blank (who neighbours in the South. It was the stadium – to put that in perspective, it’s also owns the Atlanta Falcons), were

OS_042019.P32-35_Dispatch_Atlanta_notile.indd 34 3/25/19 3:05 PM GLOBAL / DISPATCH / 35

(4)

1. Miguel Almirón, who signed for Atlanta (5) FC for US$8m 2. The signature red, black and gold on display in the Mercedes- Benz Stadium 3. Owner Arthur Blank 4. Venezuelan striker Josef Martinez 5. Atlanta fans have gained press inches for their enthusiasm 6. Martinez holds the MLS record for career hat- tricks, with six in his first 44 games (6)

very savvy in how they sold the brand. siders could reinvent themselves. And tried to avoid relying on big name super- A marketing team was put in place near- so this team of Argentinians and Ven- stars looking for a last pay day (hello Lo- ly three years before the team kicked a ezuelans, Jamaicans and Paraguayans, thar Matthaus) and instead tried to nur- ball in order to drum up support. ‘Evan- Germans and Irish won the hearts of a ture a new generation of talent. Indeed gelists’ were found in local bars who city known as the centre of black culture the big European clubs now look at the would drive support in local communi- in America. Their victory was what the MLS as a credible incubator of young ties. Flags and scarves were given away MLS hoped would happen when it was players, something that was inconceiv- at the ground in order to encourage at- created: a team of young, largely un- able even a few years ago. mosphere. The loudest fans in the world known, ethnically diverse players tak- And, if the MLS does eventually com- – from Anfield to Borussia Dortmund’s ing home the top prize. pete with the traditional big three Amer- Yellow Wall – don’t need brand evange- It’s not the first time an Atlanta soc- ican sports, it may just be that a freezing lists to get behind their team, and there cer team has won a trophy. In 1968, the night in Georgia was the catalyst. is something slightly gimmicky about Atlanta Chiefs won the inaugural NASL this ready-made fanbase, something a championship. If that feels like a life- bit artificial about all the face-painting time ago, it is. That club – the brainchild and chest thumping. of the owner of the city’s baseball team Fly to Atlanta and over 70 other destinations in the US, Caribbean and Latin Ameri- But in America fans expect their – would only last until 1973 before it ca, with Emirates and Jet Blue. Members of teams to move around: loyalty lasts only was dissolved. The average attendance Emirates Skywards earn Miles on JetBlue as long as ‘their’ team stays in their city. in 1968 was a little over 5,000. The MLS flights. Members of JetBlue’s TrueBlue loy- It helps too that Atlanta has always been has (largely) learned from the mistakes alty programme can also earn points for a city of immigrants, a place where out- NASL made in the 70s and 80s. It has Emirates-operated flights.

OS_042019.P32-35_Dispatch_Atlanta_notile.indd 35 3/25/19 3:05 PM 36 / GLOBAL / EXPLORATION

NEIGHBOURHOOD MADRID, SPAIN 40.4168° N, 3.7038° W

Find old-timey tapas joints, community gardens ringed by street art and secret ateliers in the Spanish capital’s most bohemian neighbourhood Lavapiés, Madrid

WORDS AND IMAGES: SARAH FREEMAN

OS_042019.P36-42_Neighbour_Madrid.indd 36 3/21/19 3:15 PM From Jewish corner to working class blocks from graffitied La Tabacalera, a Spanish barrio, village-like Lavapiés’ his- former tobacco factory-turned-commu- tory is as colourful as its ubiquitous ochre nity-arts-space. Straddling both worlds and dusky pink balconies, which hang is vibrant indoor market, El Mercado de over its maze of cobblestone streets. Lavapiés, which hosts free Swing Danc- Located southwest of the city centre, ing and Salsa lessons on Sundays. The Tirso de Molina Square marks its north- barrio’s ‘pay what you can afford’ book- ern boundary, bordered to the south by stores and free admission days at Reina Embajadores metro station. Originally Sofía mean you don’t need to show up it was set beyond the city walls, and in with deep pockets. 1 many ways Lavapiés is still an outsider, As well as throwing its fair share START marching to the beat of its own drum. It of fiestas, Lavapiés pulls out all the has an emerging underground culture, stops for Chinese New Year and Ram- PASTELERÍA SALAMAT and yet traditions still run deep. Old adan, a clue to its multiculturalism, converges with new – Cine Doré, a be- also reflected in an eclectic food scene. For the sweet taste of Syria in the loved 1920s cinema, is situated just four Take your pick from traditional tapas heart of Madrid, follow your nose to haunts and hip Bao hole-in-the-walls, this unassuming bakery, said to have to Moroccan teahouses and Senegalese the stickiest and crunchiest baklava restaurants like Baobab in Nelson Man- in town! These bite sized parcels are dela Square. But it’s still a barrio that baked fresh every morning by owner packs a castizo (genuine) Madrileño Yahid, a third-generation baker hailing punch, with old-school taverns like An- from Aleppo. Don’t be surprised if he DID YOU KNOW? tonio Sánchez and Bodegas Alfaro. You offers you a cardamom-laced black tea A portmanteau of ‘lava’ (meaning could while away several hours at tree- on the house. It’s the perfect accompa- wash), and ‘pies’ (meaning feet), lined Calle Ave María and Calle Argu- niment to dulces árabes (Middle East- Lavapiés translates as “wash your feet”, after the fountain that once mosa – both strewn with animated bars ern pastries) like Ma’amoul; a buttery stood in its namesake square and street-side terrazas, that make for date-paste stuffed cookie. where locals did, well, exactly this. the perfect tapeo (tapas crawl). Calle del Tribulete, 10, +34 666 62 31 37

OS_042019.P36-42_Neighbour_Madrid.indd 37 3/21/19 3:15 PM 38 / GLOBAL / EXPLORATION

2 A FIVE-MINUTE TAXI

LA CASA ENCENDIDA

Housed in an imposing Neo-Moorish building, this 6,000sqm social and cultural hub is an incubator for Ma- drid’s emerging artistic talent. It also hosts cinema sessions, workshops, live music and a jam-packed performing arts calendar. Ronda de Valencia, 2, +34 915 06 21 80. lacasaencendida.es

ing ceramics shop keeps excellent creative company. Its Madrileño owner, Deborah, turned her love for mud (an obsession that took hold aged four) into a business three years ago. Rang- ing from US$28-280, her collections include rustic stoneware dinner sets, 3 hanging flower “Sapa” pots that recall A SEVEN-MINUTE WALK Vietnamese hats, and porcelain plates inspired by her rescue greyhound, Phil- DEBORAH ABIZANDA CERAMICS ip. Get your hands dirty at one of her small group pottery classes ($28 for two Sandwiched between galleries and atel- hours), held in her annexed studio. iers on Doctor Fourquet Street, spitting Calle Doctor Fourquet 11, +34 652 93 62 distance from Reina Sofía, this charm- 37, deborah-abizanda.es

OS_042019.P36-42_Neighbour_Madrid.indd 38 3/21/19 3:15 PM GLOBAL / EXPLORATION / 39

tographer pattern making with antique leather-craft tools, surrounded by his Singer sewing machine and 60-year- old leather stencil press. Most of the 4 materials are sourced from the city’s A FOUR-MINUTE WALK Calle de Ribera de Curtidores – once the navel of Madrid’s tanning industry. OLLO MAO Starting at $170, Francisco’s signature backpacks take an average of three days Self-taught designer Francisco Panade- to make, and, along with the designer’s ro’s atmospheric milk-shop-turned-at- wash bags, wallets, cardholders and key elier is an unexpected find on Calle de rings, come with a lifetime warranty. la Fe. You’ll often find the former pho- Calle de la Fe, 18, [email protected]

OS_042019.P36-42_Neighbour_Madrid.indd 39 3/21/19 3:15 PM 40 / GLOBAL / EXPLORATION

5 A TWO-MINUTE WALK

LA GATOTECA

A cat café with a conscience, non-prof- it La Gatoteca is both a refuge for Ma- drid’s stray kitties and a space to enjoy feline company. “The house belongs to the cats” is the owner’s motto, and judging by the eat-sleep-play zones, running wheels and climbing towers that monopolise its two floors, we’d have to agree. Cats take up residence here anywhere from several days to tion. Prices start at $5 for half an hour, a year, and if one tugs at your heart- including one free soft drink. strings, you can adopt after attending Calle Argumosa, 28, +34 916 22 58 31, a crash course in feline care and nutri- lagatoteca.es 6 A FOUR-MINUTE WALK

ARTE REINA SOFÍA

This vast temple to 20th-century Span- ish art features all the greats, from cubist master Picasso to doyen of Sur- realism, Dalì. Francis Bacon’s Lying Figure and Mirò’s Man With a Pipe are crowd-pleasers, but it’s Picasso’s vener- ated black-and-white, Guernica, which hangs with jarring impact at 3.5 metres tall, that steals the show. Also check out its art-dedicated library (Spain’s largest), housed in the museum’s triangu- lar-roofed Jean Nouvel extension. Visit Saturday evening, Sunday afternoon and weekdays (except Tuesdays) from 7pm onwards, for free entry. Calle de Santa Isabel, 52, +34 917 911 330, museoreinasofia.es

OS_042019.P36-42_Neighbour_Madrid.indd 40 3/21/19 3:15 PM FA_Emirates (Open Skies)_196x260mm.pdf 1 3/1/19 8:14 PM

Pink Beach, Komodo National Park

CMY

Breathe in the Tranquil Thrill of a Harmonious Paradise

There are just seven pink beaches on this entire planet, and one of them located in East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia. But this one is diﬀerent like no other. Here, not only you can enjoy endless majestic discoveries above and below the horizon, but also witnessing the habitat of a primordial creature or even island hopping to several nearby paradises. Enjoy trekking, snorkeling, or even just relaxing by the beach with its surreal landscape. Travel around and experience a remarkable journey in the land of endless wonders.

Find out more on April 28 - May 1, 2019 at Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre #AS2550

www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel Indonesia.Travel indtravel 42 / GLOBAL / EXPLORATION

SOUND BITE Like an artsy postcode? Track down San Pedro Mártir Street, where Pablo Picasso once lived. 8 A THREE-MINUTE TAXI

CAFÉ BARBIERI

One of the city’s oldest literary cafés, this 114-year-old Art Nouveau institu- tion attracts a motley crowd from stu- dents to well-heeled tourists. Tables spill out onto the pavement (great for people watching on sunny days), whilst inside its peeling walls, cast-iron beams and original tiled-floors transport you to 19th century Madrid. Settle into one of their red velvet banquettes and cave into your sweet tooth with chocolate molten cake or homemade churros. Thirsty? Choose from 25 different teas, a dedicated milk- shake menu or spirits and vermouth on tap. There’s usually someone tinkling the ivories from 9-11pm, and Swing or Jazz nights on Mondays. Calle del Ave María, 45, +34 915 27 36 58, cafebarbieri.es 7 A SEVEN-MINUTE TAXI

LA POSITIVA MADRID

Vintage-meets-urban style at this gorgeous boutique that champion’s independent Spanish designers. Shop for jazzy bow ties, light box art, woolly hats with customisable bobbles and rails of retro-print fashion. Calle del Ave María, 27, +34 918 23 70 71, Emirates serves two destinations in facebook.com/lapositivashop Spain – Barcelona and Madrid.

OS_042019.P36-42_Neighbour_Madrid.indd 42 3/21/19 3:15 PM philips.pdf 1 3/21/19 1:25 PM

CMY

K FEELING THE ART

WORDS: EMILY MANTHEI

OS_042019.P44-49_BerlinGallery.indd 44 3/21/19 3:22 PM How the Berlinische Galerie is making visual art accessible to all

OS_042019.P44-49_BerlinGallery.indd 45 3/21/19 3:22 PM 46

People with disabilities are limited in period, of which two of the pieces in the how they see the world in many ways. permanent exhibition are a part. (The Curators at the Berlinische Galerie de- museum is currently hosting a wider cided to take on the lack of access to show of Novembergruppe works.) cultural life for disabled individuals by Katrin-Marie Kaptain, the educatio- creating a way for the visually impaired nal consultant at the museum, says that From top: Emily Eldridge, to visit the museum for modern art, vision-impaired visitors, as well as sight- a muralist and graphic designer; Otto Moeller’s photography and architecture in Berlin. ed ones, are curious to experience the Strassenlärm, 1920 More than a year ago, the gallery un- artistic interpretations of the tactile mod- veiled a project that would allow more els, which help everyone see the art in a independent access to the museum for new way. I talked to a few visitors across visually-impaired visitors. Partnering the spectrum of sight about using their with the German Society for the Blind other senses to experience modern art. and Vision-Impaired, they developed accessibility upgrades, including raised floor tracks to guide a visitor’s feet through the museum; an app with a bea- Christine Rieger worked as an art tea- con system enabling it to physically lo- cher before taking a position with the cate the visitor and play the appropriate German Society for the Blind and Vi- audio tracks describing works of art in sion-Impaired. She herself has a vision the museum; and, most exciting, seven impairment. She used feedback from tactile models of pieces of art from the the focus group of the society to develop museum’s permanent collection, “Art the audio guide text for the assistance in Berlin, 1880-1980,” developed in co- app, and now gives tours to blind and operation with the German Society for vision-impaired visitors a few times a the Blind and Vision Impaired and two year, along with Dirk Sorge. visualisation-model companies. About the audio guide app: “The spe- The modernist, somewhat abstract cial thing about the audio guide is that vis- pieces are replicated in felt, wood and itors with a visual disability can visit the fabric to give visitors the experience of museum independently and complete art from dynamic art movements, in- the exhibition. The audio guide has two cluding the exciting Novembergruppe systems: a technical system, which means that if they have the courage, they can access the text for the audio guide by using a beacon, which knows how to locate your smartphone and the image in front of it, so that the visitor can listen to the text independently, if they so desire. This is great for the blind. It makes them relatively independent as they move through the exhibition. The second system is of course an audio version of what is readable to everyone. But in addition, especially for the blind visitors, there is a special audio guide for 17 pictures. Of course, for some of these there are also the texture models. But this audio description is in addition, and is special because it offers a physical description, which is really for the inner eye, so that the blind visitor can develop another sense instead.” “You can download the app on your own smartphone and read the text in a

larger size at your house. When you’re NINA SCHNITGER STRASSGUETL, HARRY PHOTOS:

OS_042019.P44-49_BerlinGallery.indd 46 3/21/19 3:22 PM 47

The model is very complex – it’s got all different parts to it. You can feel the keys, different wood, all sorts of surfac- es to feel. It feels like a complicated in- strument he is playing, like a one man band or something. I can see a lot of color, and the feeling of the myriad con- trasts makes it come to life. So it’s quite a jolly kind of music he’s playing. You get the impression that there are lots of different sounds, like there is something you’re activating.” On the Novembergruppe exhibition: “It’s an exciting period in art, I think, because there was so much going on politi- cally and socially. New things were tried all the time. You can tell by how different the paintings are, and how different the tactile models are, and the different effect they had on me. There were so many different styles going on. They were colorful, and had lots of textures. Those were possibilities that helped me see the painting with other senses.”

Dirk Sorge is a Berlin-born visual artist who works with video, interactive animation and sound. His vision impairment is part of what drew him to Berlinische Galerie worked animation and video. “I got interested for two years to equip the permanent exhibition in programming because it gives me with tactile exhibits some kind of freedom, but also control. I know what’s happening because I’m scripting it, like a theatre director.” But the script itself allows for variation and home, you might be able to understand one of which sees blurred colours and the randomness, which bring independ- everything better, including the de- other of which can focus on close-up ob- ent life to the work: “You have a strict scriptions because you have the possi- jects. To regulate her sight during the day, framework, but within the framework bility to zoom in on your ipad and en- she wears glasses; to experience the mu- you can be pretty flexible. It’s a power- large the image.” seum, she took off her glasses and let her ful tool if you’re visually impaired. You About the tactile models: “They are other senses take over. know what’s happening, but there are super. I can understand everything. On Review Girls: “There’s lots of con- also unexpected behaviours.” Dirk gives For the vision-impaired, they are really trast of colour, and I can tell they’re look- tours of the museum’s collection and ex- good because of the strong contrast, so ing to the left. They have a different tex- hibitions to blind and vision-impaired it adds to the understanding and is good ture on the hats, and the hair. You can feel groups several times a year. for everyone.” the strands of the hair… their heads are On the museum’s systems for the roughly in the same direction. That’s very visually impaired: “This museum here nice. You can tell they are dressed up for is special because as far as I know it’s some occasion, in sleeveless dresses, for a the only art museum in Berlin that has Eleanor Forbes is a Scotswoman who has party or summer outing.” permanently installed aids for blind been living in Germany for almost 25 On The Musician: “There is a differ- people. It tells you that the museum is

PHOTOS: NINA SCHNITGER STRASSGUETL, HARRY PHOTOS: years. She has had operations for her eyes, ent texture between coat and trousers. really paying attention to our needs.”

OS_042019.P44-49_BerlinGallery.indd 47 3/21/19 3:22 PM 48

On the tactile models: “I think the ing to understand the volume of the fig- models are very helpful because you get ure. Her face is more prominent than the a good sense of the composition. It’s al- background elements, which are lower, ways hard to describe everything, even recessed. You have this feeling that it’s with a good audio description. This behind her. This piece of wall next to her way you get an impression of the whole is lower too. It’s interesting how they’ve image in your head. So when you have used volume to show the depth of the the tactile model and the description piece. It’s also all smooth, so you can’t together, it’s very good. I’m not blind, really tell, but my impression is that it’s but I have a visual impairment. I can see smoothly painted and the artist has not the colours if they are bright enough or used a lot of texture. Does this represent if the lighting is good. The tactile mod- the brush strokes, or not? My question els help because they offer contrast, and is, does it represent the painting style, you can get closer to them than the orig- or just what’s shown?” inals hanging on the wall. The models On Synthetic Musician: “It’s inter- are prominently in the room, and well esting how they have used a lot of dif- lit, with a spotlight. Sometimes you can ferent types of wood, materials, fabric, really find some details in the model some synthetic materials, wood grains, that you would overlook on the original wood finish. And some velvet stuff. I painting, even as a sighted person.” can’t see anything, but I can feel that there is volume because some parts are raised, some receded. The painter has used, as far as I can tell, some volume Emily Eldridge is a muralist and graphic or texture here in this black coat area. designer from the United States, who It’s hard to see, but I can feel a lot of tex- came to Berlin via Hong Kong and Bar- ture. It’s cool. Not having inspected the celona. Glasses help her with her near- painting, I’m curious if this is all paint- sighted vision, but as an artist who ed or if it’s collage, or if it’s representing works with different textures and brush- the textures that the painter has used. stroke techniques, the tactile models There’s a lot of different materials.” provide an additional level of experi- On the texture models: “I think in ence with the artwork. some of the more abstract works, I could On Dancer: “It’s interesting because sense there was a little bit more energy I can understand the volume of what or movement because of the different the painter is trying to express. I can feel pieces. Some of the classical stuff is rep- underneath the dress, the form of her resented in a more naturalistic way: one body. By being nearsighted, I can see solid piece, or fabric, that gave a feeling [in the model] some of the details that of what the painter was trying to depict. I can’t see in the image because it’s far They did an interesting job adding the away. Like her face, and the flowers in collage elements where the painter was her hair, are quite blurry from here. To really painting something that was a lit- see some of the details brings the art to tle bit chaotic in style or had more move- life a little bit more. Also the sensation ment to it…. They [the models] gave a of what the artist is trying to portray sensation that the painting style was with the diaphanous fabric as portrayed different, and the painters were very dif- in paint. It gives me a deeper feeling.” ferent people. But maybe I didn’t under- On Jenny Sitting Down: “If you’re stand so clearly the texture of the canvas completely blind, you don’t need the or the brush strokes. You did understand colours or have a deep understanding the form and the volume and the shape of colour. But it’s interesting to feel the and the subject matter – that made sense. form of the figure, and the volume. You Btu texture or line work would be more can almost feel the depth because her difficult to deeply grasp. But generally I knees are higher than her hips, which had a feeling for what was being depicted recede a bit. The height of things is help- and how the artist created the work.” 49

The models are not only of use to blind guests: children and families can also perceive art with two senses by using them OS_042019.P50-54_Helsinki_notile.indd 50

AN UNLIKELY PLACE FOR JAZZ? BUT HELSINKI IS MAKING TRADITION WITH ITS CLEAN SOUND

PHOTO: KOPTERCAM & PETRI ANTTILA WORDS: IAIN AKERMAN 3/25/19 3:16 PM H A R D

B O P

OS_042019.P50-54_Helsinki_notile.indd 51 3/25/19 3:16 PM 52

Just under a kilometre southwest of Hel- manship, polished contemporary pro- “The idea was to make modernist (not sinki’s South Harbour is an area known duction and the golden era of modern modern or contemporary, but modern- as Viiskulma, or the Five Corners in Eng- jazz, but it was also minimalist and el- ist as a mid-century cultural movement) lish. It’s not much to look at, just an inter- egant, just like much of Helsinki’s most jazz and the architecture of that period section of five streets with a statuesque memorable architecture. fitted in well,” says Eerikäinen, who also building on each corner, but for lovers of The man responsible for this runs Jackie, a bar inspired by 60s Italian jazz and architecture it is of very particu- symbiosis was Antti Eerikäinen, the lounge and 70s French cosmic disco. “I lar, and very precise, importance. co-founder of Ricky-Tick Records and thought that it would somehow reflect the Viiskulma is the spiritual home the entrepreneur behind Pontus and overall ethos of our project.” of The Five Corners Quintet, one of Ateljé Finne, two of the city’s finest res- On the cover of Trading Eights, Finland’s finest musical exports and taurants. He combined architecture and therefore, was a photograph of the a modernist creation formed by the design on the quintet’s album covers, Meilahti Hospital, which was designed founders of the now defunct Ricky-Tick creating the concept behind the band by the architects Jaakko Paatela and Re- Records. When the band was launched with music producer and Ricky-Tick ino Koivula in 1965. For The Devil Kicks in the early 2000s it fused jazz, archi- co-founder Tuomas Kallio, who would EP Eerikäinen chose Marja and Keijo tecture and design in a way that was go on to found the hugely successful Petäjä’s Lauttasaari Church. For Cha- completely Finnish. It was about crafts- summer music festival Flow. sin’ the Jazz Gone By, the Tapiola Cen-

L-R: Valtteri Laurell Pöyhönen of the 20-headed Ricky-Tick Big Band and sextet Dalindèo; Helsinki’s eclectic Flow Festival

OS_042019.P50-54_Helsinki_notile.indd 52 3/25/19 3:16 PM 53

tral Tower by Aarne Ervi. You can see galleries and cafes, amongst them the jazz that provides the soundtrack. It these buildings during walking tours Design Museum on Korkeavuorenkatu matches the energy of its buildings, of the city or read about Ervi and other and Galerie Forsblom in Kamppi. Ee- with its clean but edgy lines and rejec- influential architects at the Museum of rikäinen’s Jackie is here, too, three blocks tion of the abstract. When it was first Finnish Architecture, which is a short up from Viiskulma. released in 2003 The Five Corners Quin- walk from Viiskulma and forms part of Architecture is at the heart of Helsin- tet’s debut EP, Trading Eights, blended Helsinki’s Design District. ki’s identity, particularly modernism and hard bop with Latin jazz and took jazz More a state of mind than anything the work of Alvar Aalto, who borrowed running back to the dancefloor. For else, the Design District spans several shapes and colours from the Finnish land- anybody unaware of Helsinki’s vibrant downtown neighbourhoods and repre- scape and treated each of his buildings as music scene, it was a revelation, with sents the capital’s epicentre of creativity. a work of art. You can find many of them the quintet coming to epitomise an era It is here that you’ll find everything Hel- in the city, including the asymmetrical of stylised dancefloor jazz. sinki is renowned for – great architec- wonder of Finlandia Hall, just to the south Although the quintet no longer per- ture, great design, great art galleries and of Töölönlahti Bay, and Aalto’s own home forms, many of its members are now museums. There’s even a Design District in the northern suburb of Munkkiniemi. part of the Ricky-Tick Big Band, while map, offering a curated selection of more But if modernist architecture pro- groups such as Dalindèo (the second than 200 boutiques, ateliers, museums, vides Helsinki’s urban backdrop, it is signing to Ricky-Tick Records) contin-

OS_042019.P50-54_Helsinki_notile.indd 53 3/25/19 3:16 PM 54

ue to play live. That means a focus on bridge, Kallio is a sometimes intoxicat- Band, it’s not just about jazz, it’s about basslines and grooves. ing mix of cafes, restaurants, nightclubs hip-hop and other musical influences.” “It’s about energy,” says Valtteri and bars and is home to venues such as Pöyhönen is at the Korjaamo Cul- Pöyhönen, the immaculately dressed the Koko Jazz Club and Tenho Restobar. ture Factory in Töölö, a cultural venue jazz guitarist, bandleader, composer And then there’s Flow, which began not far from his studio and the Sibelius and producer behind Dalindèo. “If you life as a soul and jazz event and is held monument, with its wave-like steel pipes go in the abstract direction you have a every August in a former power plant forming a visual representation of music. different type of energy than if you go in Suvilahti. It now attracts more than Nearby is Café Regatta, a traditional red for the hard-hitting stuff that makes 80,000 people a year. cottage by the edge of the sea famed for people move.” “It’s the musicians that you play its homemade cinnamon buns. That energy is on display at venues with too,” adds Pöyhönen, who is also The following evening he is at the such as G Livelab, which lies northeast the leader of the Ricky-Tick Big Band. Savoy Theatre in central Helsinki lead- of Viiskulma in Kaartinkaupunki, and “Jaska Lukkarinen, who’s the drummer ing the Ricky-Tick Big Band & Julkinen at Storyville, the oldest jazz joint in in both the bands, is an energetic guy Sana. It’s a full house. With the band fea- town. Most of the best spots, however, and I think we always have this kind turing some of Finland’s finest jazz mu- can be found in Kallio, Helsinki’s trend- of push, this drive, which is also part sicians and the rappers Paleface, Tom- iest neighbourhood. Located north of of jazz. And right now, especially with my Lindgren and Redrama, it would be the city centre and across the Pitkäsilta what we do with the Ricky-Tick Big hard to imagine it being anything else.

Flow Festival takes place in a former power plant – tenants now include a brewery and graffiti gallery PHOTOS: MIIKKA PIRINEN, KONDRUKHOV KONSTANTIN, KONSTA RYOESA KONSTA KONSTANTIN, MIIKKA PIRINEN, KONDRUKHOV PHOTOS:

OS_042019.P50-54_Helsinki_notile.indd 54 3/25/19 3:16 PM Untitled-3.pdf 1 3/21/19 10:17 AM

CMY

K 56

As traditional food production struggles to keep pace with population growth, veganism has been touted as a solution HIGH STEAKS

How big is your favourite cut of steak? sumers identifying as vegan between Are you partial to a 500g rib-eye, a 300g 2014 and 2017. The Guardian noted a eye fillet, or perhaps a 1kg T-bone is 260 per cent increase in veganism in more your style? What if we told you the UK over the past decade, with one in that the ideal daily serving size for a eight Britons now vegan or vegetarian. piece of beef may be closer to 15g? For Earlier this year, 300,000 people took many, it’s a concept that’s hard to swal- part in Veganuary, a movement that low, yet a team of scientists believe it is encourages participants to switch to a the optimum amount of red meat for the plant-based diet for January, and which health of our bodies and the planet. led to Emirates Airlines seeing a 40 per A new report published in The Lan- cent spike in the number of vegan meals cet, one of the world’s oldest and most ordered on flights that month. prestigious medical journals, recom- For many people who are concerned mends a drastic overhaul of our diets: about global warming, making the VEGANISM IS FAST replacing much of the animal protein switch to veganism or significantly cut- MOVING BEYOND we currently consume with plant-based ting back their intake of animal protein proteins and rethinking the way land is feels like a tangible step towards secur- A FAD TOWARDS used for agriculture. The EAT-Lancet ing our planet for future generations. BECOMING A Commission aims to “illustrate the ways The co-founder of Dubai Vegan Days, GLOBAL ECOLOGICAL that food production and consumption, Will Rankin explains that there’s a rising perhaps more so than any other human body of evidence that shows reducing NECESSITY. activities, inextricably link the earth’s meat intake will have a positive impact IN THE UAE, MEAT- natural systems and human health, and on the health of the planet. “The facts that this relationship does not have to are pretty startling,” says Will. “Animals BASED TRADITIONS boil down to a choice between health or and meat production cause more green- ARE BEING TURNED the environment.” house gases than the entire world’s ON THEIR HEAD transport systems. Rainforests and other wooded lands are being razed to the THE ENVIRONMENTAL ground to grow soybeans for animal FOOTPRINT feed and, with a growing global population, food production isn’t keeping pace The report comes at with the number of people.” a time when a record “Animal production is also ex- WORDS:SARAH GAMBONI number of people are tremely inefficient in terms of land turning to veganism as use,” Will explains. “For example, T a way to reduce their en- one acre of land can produce about vironmental footprint. 22,500kg of tomatoes, 24,000kg of po- In November, Forbes reported a 600 per tatoes, 13,500kg of carrots or just 114kg cent increase in the number of US con- of beef. It doesn’t take a genius to work

OS_042019.P56-61_CoverStory_Vegan.indd 56 3/21/19 4:14 PM 57

OS_042019.P56-61_CoverStory_Vegan.indd 57 3/21/19 3:31 PM 58

One acre of land out that if we reduced meat consump- can produce about IN GOOD HEALTH 24,000kg of potatoes – tion, it would have a direct, rapid, posi- or 114kg of beef tive effect on the environment.” It’s not just the health Figures provided by The Lancet re- of the planet that gives port suggest that by 2050, feeding our us a reason to rethink global population with a healthy, sus- our meat intake. The tainable diet will be impossible without I World Health Organisa- massive, systemic changes to our eating tion classifies processed habits, food production, and waste re- meats as a Group 1 carcinogen, mean- duction. “The food we eat and how we ing there is evidence that processed produce it determines the health of peo- meats cause cancer, while red meat, ple and the planet, and we are currently including beef and lamb, is classified getting this seriously wrong,” says Tim as Group 2A, probably carcinogenic to Lang, the commission’s co-author and humans. Nutritionist Banin Shahine professor at Britain’s University of Lon- from Fitness First believes a vegan diet don. “We need a significant overhaul, has a number of health benefits. “It is changing the global food system on a a great way to improve digestion with scale not seen before.” a high intake of vegetables, fruits, fibre

OS_042019.P56-61_CoverStory_Vegan.indd 58 3/21/19 3:31 PM 59

and prebiotics,” she says. “According to tent, as there are nine essential amino conscious, and they like to come to the American Dietetic Association, re- acids that the body cannot produce.” Little Erth because they say the food is ducing your animal product intake can These amino acids can be found in ‘clean’,” says Nabih. “We’ve veganised also help lower the risk of developing quinoa, buckwheat, hemp seeds, chia a lot of the most popular Arabic dishes chronic diseases such as hypertension, and spirulina. Banin also suggests ve- and we’re challenging the idea that a lot diabetes, and heart diseases. And it gans supplement their diet with a num- of these recipes only go well with meat.” may decrease the risk of having can- ber of nutrients that are hard to obtain Dubai-based chef Anand Radia of cer, due to its richness in antioxidants from plants alone, including vitamin Nara Pan Asian has been a vegetarian and superfoods.” B12, omega 3 and zinc. his whole life, and credits his diet with For those tempted to reduce their At their award-winning Little Erth keeping him healthy, “physically and meat and dairy intake, one concern that restaurant in Dubai, Nabih Al Momaiz spiritually. At 55 years of age, I am in commonly crops up is how to replace and Ghalia Alul serve a menu that is 98 perfect health, and I have never gone those traditional protein sources with per cent vegan, drawing on a natural out of my way to source plant-based plant-based alternatives. “All plants bounty of chickpeas, quinoa, kidney proteins. Instead, I try and consume a have a good amount of protein, even beans, mushrooms, nuts and seeds to balanced diet consisting of fresh fruits cucumbers,” says Banin. “However, the create mouth-watering burgers, tagines and near raw vegetables as often as quality of protein in plants is different and desserts. “A lot of our customers possible,” he says. “I know it is diffi- and dependent on the amino acid con- are not vegan, but they are very health cult to change a ‘habit of a lifetime’, but

OS_042019.P56-61_CoverStory_Vegan.indd 59 3/21/19 3:31 PM 60

10 TO TRY THE BEST PLACES IN THE UAE TO TRY ON VEGANISM FOR SIZE

Little Erth by Nabz&G Bareburger Vegan meatballs, Buddha burgers, and Get your vegan burger fix at Bareburger, carrot cake with cashew cream are where the Beyond Meat patty delivers just some of the tempting dishes on the juiciness and flavour you’d expect offer at Little Erth. They also host a from a beef burger, with a huge 25g popular vegan Iftar every night during of plant protein whose primary source Ramadan. Shop 34, Building J2, Cluster is peas. Various locations, bareburger. J, JLT, nabzandg.com com/uae/

Nara Pan Asian Life N One Café Chinese, Thai and Japanese classics Located in the Life N One wellness cen- are given a vegetarian makeover, as tre, this plant-based café is renowned for chef Anand Radia serves meat-free its cakes and desserts, such as Snickers dim sum, curries and sushi along- pie or the triple chocolate cheesecake, all side the traditional meat and seafood free from gluten and refined sugar. Street options. Cluster A (next to Movenpick 27B, Jumeirah 1, Jumeirah Beach Road, Hotel), JLT, naradxb.com Dubai, lifenone.com/cafe/ having access to information showing how meat production is harming the Super Natural Kitchen Ronda Locatelli environment and how eating meat is This 100 per cent raw, vegan, glu- From Italian masterchef Giorgio actually harmful, the decision should ten-free eatery creates virtuous ver- Locatelli, this family-friendly pizzeria in be an easy one to make. Initially be- sions of lasagne, pizza and cakes, Atlantis, The Palm, has launched a new come a weekend meat-eater and there- along with a dairy-free cheese board vegan menu sporting 40 pizzas, pas- after reduce totally,” Anand suggests. of cultured, nut-based cheeses. 2nd tas and desserts. Atlantis, The Palm, Floor, Galeries Lafayette, The Dubai atlantisthepalm.com/restaurants/ron- Mall, Downtown, snkitchen.com da-locatelli CHANGING HABITS

Ananda Shakespeare, Wild & The Moon The Raw Place co-founder of Dubai With locations in Dubai, Paris and New Using certified organic, GMO-free and Vegan Days, has been a York, this hip eatery does a roaring plant-based ingredients, online store vegan for 26 years, but trade in breakfast bowls, lunchtime sal- The Raw Place delivers detox juices, A she has a simple mes- ads, and raw desserts made from nuts, handmade nut milks, superfood bowls sage for people who are cacao and coconut oil. Alserkal Avenue, and restorative soups around the UAE. readdressing their diet. “For those who Al Quoz, and Robinsons, Dubai Festival Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Sharjah; theraw- would like to cut down, there’s a move- City; wildandthemoon.ae place.com ment called Meat Free Mondays, which I think is a good way to start. Paul, Mary and Stella McCartney are behind Meat Roots Bistro Dubai Vegan Days Free Mondays and it’s been going for When you’re craving comfort food, Follow Dubai Vegan Days on Facebook years. Try one night a week and then Roots Bistro delivers with its vegan to hear about community days, pop-up maybe challenge yourself to another takes on ramen, paella and lasagne. markets, informative talks and catch- day a week and so on. It’s great to chal- Techno Hub 2, Dubai Silicon Oasis, ups at vegan eateries around town. lenge ourselves and embrace change… rootsbistro.ae Follow @DXBvegandays it keeps life interesting.”

OS_042019.P56-61_CoverStory_Vegan.indd 60 3/21/19 3:31 PM 61

OS_042019.P56-61_CoverStory_Vegan.indd 61 3/21/19 3:31 PM HOW TO HOLD AN AUDIENCE For decades, UK DJ Tony Blackburn has captivated listeners, from Top Of The Pops to Radio 1. What’s his magic formula?

WORDS: IAIN AKERMAN PHOTO: RON BURTON

OS_042019.P62-64_BBC_TonyBlackburn_notile.indd 62 3/25/19 3:17 PM OS_042019.P62-64_BBC_TonyBlackburn_notile.indd 63 3/25/19 3:17 PM 64

It’s the kind of gentle mockery that Blackburn appreciates. “I’ve never taken myself too seriously. With an act like mine you can’t,” he says with a chuckle, inject- ing self-deprecating humour into the con- versation with endearing regularity. “I made 29 singles and two albums – all ahead of their time,” he says at one stage, discussing his failed singing career and, in particular, the song I’ll Do Anything, which he recorded in 1969. He would later describe it as a “soul record without any soul”. “I’d already destroyed Baby I Need Your Loving by the Four Tops and I didn’t realise I couldn’t sing soul music,” he says with a smile. “It’s very difficult. But this record got released in the northern soul clubs under the name of Lenny Gamble and somebody rung me up and said, ‘I don’t know if you know, but you’ve got a northern soul hit’. I said ‘that’s an awful The former Radio 1 DJ at his home in the UK. Previous page: Rehearsals ahead of the official record’. But I went to the Wigan Casino launch of Radio 1, in 1967. The first record played and they introduced me on stage as Len- was ‘Flowers in the Rain’, by The Move ny Gamble and I came on and I could see the look of disappointment in their eyes. They thought, ‘my God, we bought a Tony Blackburn record by mistake’.” One of the many faces of Top Of The Because until I started playing it on the Despite the self-mockery, there’s Pops and the DJ who officially launched pirate ships and on Radio 1 – people like a formula to Blackburn’s success. One Radio 1, Tony Blackburn is a household Diana Ross and Stevie Wonder – nobody that has assured him a place in British name in the UK. was playing those records.” radio history. Unabashedly mainstream, he has Blackburn began his career as a sing- “If you’re going to go on the radio you survived more than 50 years in radio er in a dance band, performing at the might as well get a big audience,” he says. and is as busy as ever, working for four Bournemouth Pavilion for three years “I’ve always adopted the American top 40 different stations and currently touring until he landed his first gig as a pirate ra- system, which is based on a half an hour the country with Sounds of the 60s, his dio DJ for Radio Caroline in 1964. He later format where you would take the same re- weekly show on BBC Radio 2. joined Radio London (which, like Radio cords, but you’d change them every week It is because of The Emirates Soul Caroline, was run from a ship in the North because you predict what’s going to be a Show, however, for which Blackburn has Sea), but it was the launch of BBC Radio 1 hit and what isn’t going to be a hit. So you so far recorded two episodes, that we are in 1967 that made him a household name. refresh it that way. talking. “I listened to one of them coming “Good morning everyone, welcome to the “The current commercial radio in over – I thoroughly enjoyed it,” he says exciting new sound of Radio 1,” were his Britain I think is awful. They play the with a laugh. It’s the kind of easygoing immortal first words. same records over and over again. With banter that has made him such a popular A large part of his popularity, how- my shows you’re never more than one figure in the UK, refusing to take himself ever, is down to comedy. The British record away from a hit, and that’s the too seriously and mixing lighthearted pop comedian Harry Enfield modelled the secret of getting an audience.” chatter with a genuine love of music. fictional character Dave Nice (of Smash- “For me it’s always been soul music,” ie and Nicey fame) on Blackburn and he he says. “I just love it. You know, people was once described as “more Partridge Hear an exclusive interview with Tony singing from the heart and fabulous than Partridge”. The latter was a refer- Blackburn, who tells us all about his singers and anything Motown. That’s ence to Steve Coogan’s comic radio pre- colourful career and how he came to the only thing I’m proud of really – in- senter Alan Partridge, who is prone to host The Emirates Soul Show. Listen to

troducing Motown into Great Britain. eccentric, self-aggrandising chatter. it on channel 1800 on ice. / GETTY KITWOOD DAN IMAGES PHOTO:

OS_042019.P62-64_BBC_TonyBlackburn_notile.indd 64 3/25/19 3:18 PM TR_SP_M&C MUST BE 2019 SUMMER BEAUTYSHOT CRAVATE 150 ANS_OPEN SKIES_195X260_L_UAE.indd 1 14/03/2019 10:53 66 / EXPO 2020

Welcoming everyone in the ‘hayyakum’ spirit Inspired by the traditional Emirati greeting of ‘hayyakum’, Expo 2020 Dubai is creating an inclusive site equipped to deliver an unforgettable visitor experience for millions of people – and everyone’s invited

What does it mean to host a World Expo? It means bringing together millions of people from every corner of the planet to share ideas, drive progress and have fun. It means creating a jam-packed programme of events, with mind-blowing per- formances from world-famous artists, taste bud-tickling cuisine from Michelin star chefs, horizon-expanding talks from pio- neering thinkers, and everything in between. Most importantly, it means delivering an unforgettable visitor experience for everyone, regardless of age, background or ability. In the spirit of ‘hayyakum’ – a traditional Emirati greeting used to welcome guests – Expo 2020 Dubai aims to host the most inclusive World Expo in history. Our accessible site will cater to all needs, with a variety of features that have been ‘designed in’ to With accessibility and inclusivity at its The Expo 2020 site empower visitors in line with our theme of core, Expo 2020 is working with its partners has considered every ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’ and and participants to deliver a hassle-free vis- visitor in its design, from our key subtheme of Opportunity. itor experience for people of determination, wheelchair stations to audio induction loops Based on the principles of equity, dig- senior citizens, guests with temporary in- nity, functionality and independence, the juries or medical conditions, individuals of Expo 2020 team has considered all visitor tall or short stature, pregnant women, fami- segments and requirements to create a com- lies with small children, school groups, and prehensive selection of accessibility solu- every other segment of society. tions, which are being deployed across the Put simply, if you are ready to take part site and its supporting infrastructure. in a global celebration of human ingenuity From mobility services such as wheel- and progress, we are ready to say ‘hayya- chairs and charging stations, strollers and kum’ to you. Whoever you are, wherever electric vehicles travelling to and from des- you’re from and whatever your require- ignated parking zones, to audio-description ments, Expo 2020 can provide tools that will guides and audio induction loops for people help you to shape a brighter tomorrow. with visual or hearing impairments, Expo By welcoming the world to our accessi- 2020 has the amenities needed to support ble and inclusive site, we hope to help raise every single visitor journey. the benchmark for accessibility and inclu- In collaboration with the Dubai Autism sivity in our region and beyond, creating a Center, Expo has also created four quiet lasting impact for generations to come. rooms – spread across its site – to provide At Expo 2020, we are committed to say- ‘decompression areas’ for visitors who are ing ‘hayyakum’ to the world, because every For more, check out the prone to experiencing sensory overload or single one of us has an important role to play Expo 2020 podcast on hypersensitivity. in ‘Connecting Minds, Creating the Future’. ice channel 1901.

OS_042019.P66_Expo.indd 66 3/21/19 3:36 PM estetik.pdf 1 2/21/19 4:02 PM

CMY

K 68 / LITFEST / THE BIG QUESTION

From left: Jane Hawking’s memoir was a poignant memory of her father

of the Royal Ballet Company at a mere 20 years of age and features gravity-de- Why go to a fying poses through a series of gorgeous images shot by Annie Liebowitz and Mario Testino. All spoke at LitFest about literature festival? their journey.

The highlights of the 10th Emirates HOW TO SPEAK IN PUBLIC Airline Festival of Literature Radio personality Richard Dean launched a groundbreaking new book on public speaking at LitFest – CROWD- LOCAL FLAVOUR INSPIRATIONAL MEMOIRS PLEASER: the 100 greatest public The 10th iteration of the festival kicked Travelling to Infinity is Jane Hawking’s speaking tips of all time from Socrates off with a spectacular opening event at record of her time with her then hus- to Steve Jobs. The tips will, says Dean, The Cultural & Scientific Association, Al band, the renowned Stephen Hawking, “transform your talks in minutes.” Each Mamzar. The ceremony featured multi- tracing his life after motor neurone of the 100 lessons summarises a classic cultural performers honouring the his- disorder struck him, through to his as- public speaking tip, such as the Steve tory of the Festival and its home, Dubai, cension into one of the most brilliant Jobs ‘Twitter-friendly headline’ or ‘The with recitals by Festival 2018 authors, minds of his day. Alannah Hill designs Wonder Woman Pose’ by Harvard pro- shadow-dancers, pearl diver aerialists fabulously feminine clothing with frills, fessor Amy Cuddy. and traditional Emirati sea-faring singers, flowers and flair. Her memoir however, bringing to life the many facets of the Fes- makes it clear that underneath all that ADVICE FOR WANNABE WRITERS tival’s programme. The event also marked froth, lies a core of steel. Evolved cele- The Festival programme also included a the official launch of the Festival’s 10th brates Darcey Bussell’s many achieve- dedicated Publishing Day, where global

anniversary book, For the Love of Words. ments, becoming the principal dancer industry experts held sessions, master- ANGELINA MICU PHOTO:

OS_042019.P68-69_LitFest_Highlights.indd 68 3/21/19 3:40 PM LITFEST / THE BIG QUESTION / 69

Nine days of literary entertainment classes and workshops on key aspects of featured more than 175 global authors. publishing, while experts on the Busi- Below: Richard Dean ness Day discussed the latest thinking on a range of topics to help business leaders give their companies the edge. There was also a raft of competitions to hone writing skills, from the Oxford University Press (OUP) Story Writing Competition to the Costa Debate for Events included a dedicated Youth Day 2019 (which is best, Fact or Fiction?) which attracted more than 1,200 young people to the dynamic sessions de- IMMERSIVE EVENTS signed to engage, inform and inspire the More than 1,700 children were enter- up and coming generation of the UAE; a tained by Diary of a Wimpy Kid author ‘United by Food’ dinner celebrating the Jeff Kinney in his hilarious fast-paced ways we are all connected by words and show and crowds of YA fans came to food; the return of the Festival’s atmos- see their heroes Cassandra Clare, Holly pheric landmark event Desert Stanzas; Black and Victoria Aveyard. The chil- and The Murder Mystery Dinner featur- dren’s programme included favourite ing legendary DJ Tony Blackburn. characters such as the Demon Head- master, Isadora Moon and Bee Boy with lots of free family fun events and the Festival Fringe showcasing drama For more, visit the Emirates Airline and music from schools and commu- Festival of Literature podcast on chan-

PHOTO: ANGELINA MICU PHOTO: nity groups around the region. Special nel 1805 on ice.

OS_042019.P68-69_LitFest_Highlights.indd 69 3/21/19 3:40 PM 70 / THE YEAR OF TOLERANCE

Sheikh Zayed at the opening of St Andrew’s Church in 1968

this instance means to “show oneself as tolerant, by treating others kindly and with indulgence, and to forgive”. Anoth- er form of the verb with the same root is translated as “to grant from a generous heart, to be generous, magnanimous, kind, liberal, open-handed”. The UAE’s long history of religious tolerance stands in stark contrast to her neighbours. With over forty church cen- tres, two Hindu temples, a Mormon Stake and a Sikh Gurduwara, the UAE hosts more religious minority buildings of worship than the rest of the GCC put together. Most recently, this commitment to religious tolerance was enshrined to a deeper What is tolerance? level with a new law, passed in 2015, which criminalised all forms of discrimination In the UAE’s Year of Tolerance, Reverend on the grounds of religion, caste, creed, doctrine, race, colour or ethnic origin. Andrew Thompson asks what the term could For people not familiar with the – and should – mean for today’s world UAE, the discovery that there is freedom of worship here, not only for Chris- ADAPTED FROM ‘CELEBRATING TOLERANCE: RELIGIOUS DIVERSITY tians, but also for people of other faiths IN THE UNITED ARAB EMIRATES’/BOOKSARABIA.COM comes as a surprise. The one thing that unites us all as When I stand in the garden of St An- air over the garden. It sent shivers down diverse religious communities in the drew’s Vicarage, which is our home in my spine and I wondered where else in UAE is our commitment to tolerance, Abu Dhabi, I look to my right and I see the world would you experience this? tasaamu, that is, to be generous-heart- the magnificent mosque of Mohamed The word tolerance in the English lan- ed, kind, forgiving and open-handed. In bin Zayed Al Nahyan, with its four min- guage can be ambivalent in meaning; to short, this whole book is a call to friend- arets towering over my house. In front of tolerate someone does not necessarily im- ship. That in the words of the Holy me, lies the huge campus of the Roman ply an attitude of goodwill. For example, Qur’an, there is a divine mandate to Catholic Church of St Joseph. One starry the child’s bad behaviour was tolerated “know one another“ (Surah Al Hujurat night, we hosted a Passover meal in our through gritted teeth. Is this the meaning 49:13), or as Jesus Christ said, we must garden and as the Psalms known as the behind the Emirati commitment to toler- “love our neighbours“ (Mattew 22:39). Hallel (part of the Passover tradition) ance? Is the purpose of tolerance to put up May God guide and bless the UAE began to be chanted in Hebrew, sudden- with the expatriate presence and religious as they pursue the paths of peace ly the call to prayer rang out plaintively others with ill grace, or a plea to the for- and tolerance. from the minaret next door. eign tourists to bear with the Islamic cul- At the same time, the Roman Catho- ture and practice of the Emiratis? lic Church who were holding an open air The reality of religious tolerance on meeting in their courtyard burst into a the ground in the UAE is very different. Rev. Canon Andrew Thompson is Senior song of praise – a Christian hymn of wor- In Arabic, the word used for tolerance Anglican Chaplain ship to the Father, Son and Holy Spirit. by the UAE’s government is tasaamu, of St Andrew’s Church, For a profound moment, the Hebrew which unlike the English word has no which is next door to chanting, the Arabic call to prayer and a negative undertone. Thus, according to the magnificent Mary traditional English hymn collided in the the Arabic dictionary, the verb used in Mother of Jesus Mosque.

OS_042019.P70_Year_Tolerance.indd 70 3/21/19 4:13 PM FEATHERS-OpenSkiesAD.pdf 1 3/18/19 5:26 PM

CMY

K anthon berg.pdf 1 3/24/19 9:32 AM

CMY

K Emirates

NEWS ° INSIDE EMIRATES ° DESTINATION ° UAE SMART GATE ° ROUTE MAP ° FLEET

Along the Douro Emirates is to launch a four times weekly service between Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, and Dubai from July 2. p.74

OS_042019.P73_EmiratesOpener.indd 73 3/21/19 3:42 PM 74 / EMIRATES / NEWS

Emirates to launch new service to Porto

Porto will become Emirates’ second destination in Portugal, as Emirates announced it will launch a four times weekly service between the country’s second-largest city and Dubai from 2 July 2019. Emirates – which currently serves capital Lisbon with two flights a day – will provide travellers with a new service in northern Portugal, a major urban area, as well as those in the Northwest of Spain in cities such as Vigo and Santiago de Compostela. The flight will be operated by a Boeing 777-300ER aircraft in a three class cabin configuration, offering eight private suites in First Class, 42 lie flat seats in Business Class and 310 spacious seats in Economy Class. The flight between Dubai and Porto will operate on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, and depart Dubai as EK197 at 0915hrs and arrive its Port wine production and historical The new service will also enable in Porto at 1430hrs. The return flight, city centre, a designated UNESCO Emirates SkyCargo to offer up to EK198, will depart Porto at 1735hrs World Heritage Site. Besides offering 18 tonnes of cargo capacity on the and land in Dubai at 0415hrs the a rich cultural heritage and variety flight, giving local businesses the next morning. of tourist attractions, Porto is also an opportunity to increase their exports Situated along the coast and on the important trade and industrial city, such as garments, shoes, automotive Douro River, Porto is world famous for attracting business travellers. parts and cork.

EMIRATES TO LINK PHNOM PENH AND BANGKOK WITH DAILY SERVICE FROM DUBAI Emirates will link Phnom Penh (PNH) and Bangkok (BKK) before arriving at Phnom Penh International Airport at 2125hrs. with its new daily service set to launch on 1 June 2019. The On the return segment, flight EK371 will depart Phnom Penh at service from Dubai to Phnom Penh, via Bangkok, will provide 2320hrs, and will arrive in Bangkok at 0040hrs, the following day. passengers travelling between the capital It will then set off to Dubai at 0225hrs, cities of Cambodia and Thailand with arriving at 0535hrs. more flight options. Emirates has been serving Cambodia Travellers from both Southeast Asian with its flights to Phnom Penh since July nations will also enjoy access to Emirates’ 2017, carrying over 100,000 passengers global network, with enhanced connectivity on the route to date. As Cambodia’s to over 150 destinations in 86 countries largest and most rapidly developing city, and territories. Phnom Penh contributes significantly The new service will be operated with to the country’s economic growth and an Emirates Boeing 777 aircraft. Flights continues to witness a significant increase to Phnom Penh will depart daily from Dubai International Airport in foreign tourist arrivals. Trade links between the UAE, Cambodia (DXB) at 0845hrs local time, as EK370, and arrive in Bangkok at and Thailand will also be supported with daily Emirates cargo 1815hrs. The same flight will then depart Bangkok at 2000hrs, services on the same route.

OS_042019.P74-75_EmiratesNews.indd 74 3/21/19 3:43 PM EMIRATES / NEWS / 75

ADVANCED NAVIGATION Kabul airport is situated in a wide EMIRATES WINS TECHNOLOGY TO INCREASE valley at an elevation of 5,800 feet and is AWARDS FOR CABINS CARGO CAPACITY TO KABUL surrounded by mountains that are over AND LOYALTY 11,000 feet tall. The airport has a number PROGRAMME of constraints associated with it because of the challenging terrain, Air Traffic Control (ATC) and other security requirements. Kabul airport’s primary Runway 29 has two established missed-approach procedures with one of them requiring that an aircraft be able to climb at a steep angle when cloud cover is lower than 1,200 feet. Previously, whenever meteorological Emirates Flight Operations has developed reports predicted cloud cover below this a new navigation technique that allows level at Kabul airport, cargo was offloaded the airline to carry additional cargo into in Dubai to make the aircraft lighter to Kabul International airport. The innovative ensure that in the event the aircraft had missed-approach procedure developed by to execute a missed-approach at Kabul the airline has replaced an older technique airport, it could achieve the required climb that required cargo bound for Kabul to be gradient. However, this measure often offloaded in Dubai during poor weather resulted in cargo not arriving on time at conditions at the destination. Kabul. In order to optimise cargo loads Emirates has won ‘Favourite Emirates operates a daily flight into without compromising on safety, Emirates Middle East Airline, Premium Kabul International airport on its Boeing Flight Operations Support developed Cabin’ at the Condé Nast 777-300ER aircraft and within the first a new missed-approach navigation Middle East Reader’s Choice three months of implementation, the new procedure with an easier climb gradient Awards, as well as ‘Excellence solution gave Emirates the capability for for Kabul airport’s Runway 29 taking in Management’ at the carrying an additional 250 tonnes of cargo advantage of the Boeing 777 aircraft’s Loyalty Awards 2019. into Kabul during low-cloud conditions. superior navigational accuracy. The Condé Nast awards are conferred by reader-generated votes across the GCC. Over the past year, Emirates has Emirates partners with tech startups been working hard to bring its for Dubai Future Accelerators customers a more comfortable and connected onboard Emirates and Dubai Future experience, from refreshed Accelerators, an initiative of Dubai cabins to greater entertainment Future Foundation, have launched options, dining choices the sixth cohort of their Accelerators and upgraded lounges. programme. For the second year, Emirates The Dubai Future Accelerators Skywards, the loyalty programme programme brings together innovative of Emirates and flydubai, was tech startups from around the world presented with the ‘Excellence to collaborate with government and in Management’ award at the corporate entities in Dubai to develop Loyalty Awards 2019. solutions around specific challenges In 2018, Emirates Skywards outlined by the host entities. was recognised for its use The three challenges defined by of data science to optimise Emirates are: using the latest blockchain and developing an online system that member engagement through and AI technology to build a platform consolidates all the different processes relevant offers. This year, that will redefine b2b purchasing and involved in cabin crew duty travel. Emirates Skywards introduced procurement for the airline; creating The seven shortlisted teams taking its dynamic flight upgrade and an integrated platform to support a part in the programme originate from Cash+Miles promotions for seamless pre-airport arrival experience six different countries including two members who book their for customers travelling on Emirates; teams from the UAE. flights via Emirates.com.

OS_042019.P74-75_EmiratesNews.indd 75 3/21/19 4:12 PM 76 / INSIDE EMIRATES

To Veganuary and beyond The worldwide vegan movement had a major impact on which meals you requested on board Emirates in January – but it didn’t stop there

Emirates’ team of nutritionists and chefs use the freshest vegetables and unique grains to create our special meals. Known for our regionally- inspired cuisine on board, we take the same approach for our vegan meals, with recipes inspired by our destinations.

Emirates’ Veganuary in numbers Our most popular vegan meals: • Mushroom ravioli • Vegetable tagine served with couscous • Sweet potato, lentil and spinach ragout with brown rice 20,000+ 40% Plant-based meals Increase in requests served on board for vegan meals …Not forgetting desserts • Key lime parfait The movement didn’t stop in January: with date and • Emirates has more than 170 plant-based recipes in its kitchen citrus compote • They are designed by a team of nutritionists and chefs • Moist chocolate • Vegan is our 3rd most commonly requested special meal cake in Economy • Chia seed • Emirates was voted as ‘Best Airline for Vegan Meals’ pudding by Vegan News

OS_042019.P76-77_InsideEmirates.indd 76 3/21/19 3:47 PM INSIDE EMIRATES / 77

We go to great Prefer a regular meal? lengths to present our customers in For customers less inclined every class with toward a plant-based diet, a great dining Emirates’ regular menus are also whipped up by experience, award-winning chefs regardless of • 110 million+ meals served their preferences onboard each year or dietary • The same attention to detail across classes requirements.” • 55 million+ dine-in guests Joost Heymeijer, Emirates’ catered to per year Senior Vice President, Catering • Destination-inspired cuisine

DID YOU KNOW? 18,000kgs+ Of nut-based cheese has been served on board in the last year

How to get your hands on one of our vegan meals Vegan meals, along with other special meals, are available on all Emirates flights and across all classes and can be requested 24 hours before departure. All the menus on board are changed monthly.

WANT TO FIND OUT MORE? HEAD TO EMIRATES’ OWN FOOD AND WINE CHANNELS ON ICE TO GET A BEHIND-THE-SCENES LOOK AT HOW WE CREATE OUR ONBOARD MENUS AND WORK WITH OUR GLOBAL PARTNERS

OS_042019.P76-77_InsideEmirates.indd 77 3/21/19 3:48 PM 78 / EMIRATES / DESTINATION

Glasgow, Scotland Take in the colour – and humour – of this former merchant city

Glasgow is testament to the fact that a city is not all that it appears. Superficially, its centre is mostly made up of a lot of handsome – if stol- id – brick institutions that have weathered both the loss of industrialisation, as well as winters that run to around two degrees. Yet, colour can be found in the unlikeliest of corners. Whether its the Klein blue of Glasgow Cathedral’s stained glass, the gold leaf of City Chambers, or the bright fuschia of the Billy Con- nolly mural in Gallowgate – this is a city that you have to delve into in order to appreciate. Another inarguable source of colour are Glaswegians themselves, who are only too willing to poke fun at themselves (and others). Check out the Stand or Rotunda comedy clubs for some of the best acts in the country – or just try to decipher residents’ many colloquialisms. Once the shipbuilder to the world, today the city has many more strings to its bow, from art to architecture and music. A perhaps lesser-known attraction is its shopping – the city has the second-largest retail sector in the UK, most of which can be found on Style Mile. Pick up some Scottish tartan or tweed at one of the traditional tailors on Sauchiehall Street, browse diamonds at Argyll Arcade, or haggle for flea-market finds at Barras Market.

A mural of local comedian Billy Connolly on Osborne Street

Emirates will operate the A380 on the Glasgow-Dubai route between 16 April and 31 May. EMIRATES / DESTINATION / 79

15 GLASGOW BLYTHSWOOD HOTEL DU VIN This boutique bed & SQUARE HOTEL GLASGOW breakfast manages to For a stay with all the Near to the Botanic mesh period features amenities head to Gardens and only half – the 19th-century this five-star property, an hour from Loch terrace property has which has a barber Lomond, Hotel du Vin original fittings such shop, heated pool, golf – part of a boutique as fireplaces and course and beauty chain in the UK – is wooden shutters salon on its premises. set on a tree-lined – with a cosy and Activities like snow Victorian terrace in the informal atmosphere. skiing and racquetball West End. Stay for the Its five rooms are pet can be arranged, and ambience, plus luxuries friendly and a meander the city centre is just a such as a cigar shack away from the bohemi- 10-minute walk away. and whiskey room. an West End. blythswood-square. hotelduvin.com/loca- 15glasgow.com hotelsofglasgow.com tions/glasgow

ALSTON BAR 111 BY NICO THE UBIQUITOUS & BEEF A bistro that mentors CHIP If you happen to young people from Known affectionately notice commuters underprivileged back- just as ‘The Chip’ by slipping through an grounds, 111 is ethi- locals, this brasserie, unremarkable doorway cally-minded without restaurant and bar inside Glasgow Central losing its gastronomic trifecta has been open Station, chances are focus. Their menu since 1971. Now, food they’re heading to Al- changes weekly but ad- provenance is all-too ston, a speakeasy-style venturous eaters should familiar but owner underground gin bar try ‘TRUST’, where the Ronnie Clydsedale and steak house that guest chooses from a was truly unique in his sources from sustaina- list of 12 ingredients championing of local ble, small batch farms to make up their five Scottish cuisine, before that grass feed. course tasting menu. it was fashionable. alstonglasgow.co.uk 111bynico.co.uk ubiquitouschip.co.uk

GLASGOW TIGERS SWG3 HAMPDEN PARK SPEEDWAY Roisin Murphy plays Take a tour around the Scotland’s best mo- there in May, as well as 52,000-seater stadium torcycle riders jostle every iteration of EDM, that created the ‘Hamp- for position at speeds a regular poetry night den Roar’, a crowd of over 100km/h, and an event space for celebration so loud with no brakes, in this hire. This artistic tabula that in 1929, a player event that runs from rasa can adapt to fit lying in the infirmary a March to August. The every creative medium mile away could hear machines are specially manageable – the Acid it. As well as a chance designed to have only Bar hosts ongoing exhi- to measure the speed one gear which – bitions, and the Yard is of your penalty kick, alongside the lack of an outdoor space that visitors can also visit brakes – causes their has seen graffiti shows the football museum extreme sliding. and food festivals alike. housed within. glasgowtigers.co swg3.tv hampdenpark.co.uk 80 / EMIRATES / UAE SMART GUIDE

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES Be smart! Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport

Citizens of the countries listed on in and out of the airport within the right and UAE residents can seconds. speed through Dubai Interna- Just look out for signs that tional by using UAE Smart Gate. will direct you to the many UAE If you hold a machine-read- Smart Gates found on either side able passport, an E-Gate card or of the Immigration Hall at Dubai Emirates ID card you can check International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to 1 be scanned.

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into 2 the card slot.

Go through the open gate, stand on the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set 3 of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim.

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register for Smart Gate access, just spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer and that’s it. Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed. *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re • Machine-readable passports travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport from the above countries control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and • E-Gate cards Departures, across all three terminals at DXB. • Emirates ID cards

OS_042019.P80_UAESmartGates.indd 80 3/21/19 3:51 PM Untitled-3.pdf 1 3/18/19 2:27 PM

CMY

K 82 EMIRATES ROUTE MAP

GLOBAL ROUTES Suspended Seasonal service

msterdam ucland ano arcelona eiin irminham risbane asablanca four times hristchurch openhaen Dusseldorf ranfurt eely service Guanzhou ambur on Kon ouston starts uly eddah ohannesbur Kuala umpur Kuait ondon os neles Madrid Manchester Mauritius Melbourne Milan Mosco Mumbai daily Munich e or ice saa aris erth service starts raue ome an rancisco o aulo eoul une hanhai inapore ydney aipei oyo NE ROUTES A ROUTES A oronto ienna ashinton D urich outes shown are as of time of going to press as of time going to outes shown are

OS_042019.P82-86_RouteMaps_notile.indd 82 3/25/19 3:48 PM EMIRATES ROUTE MAP 83

RA ADDIINA DSINAINS I R DSAR PARNRS ith codeshare partners in countries ( airlines and an airrail codeshare arranement ith rances G ir and Italys renitalia) Emirates has even more fliht options

effectively epandin its netor by partners for full details on our travel over destinations isit

OS_042019.P82-86_RouteMaps_notile.indd 83 3/25/19 3:48 PM 84 EMIRATES ROUTE MAP

MIDDLE EAST

AFRICA Suspended Seasonal service outes shown are as of time of going to press as of time going to outes shown are

OS_042019.P82-86_RouteMaps_notile.indd 84 3/25/19 3:48 PM EMIRATES / ROUTE MAP / 85

ASIA & PACIFIC

EUROPE & CENTRAL ASIA

**Seasonal service

OS_042019.P82-86_RouteMaps_notile.indd 85 3/25/19 3:48 PM 86 / EMIRATES / ROUTE MAP

AMERICAS

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

Freighter destinations Routes shown are as of time of going to press as of time going to Routes shown are

OS_042019.P82-86_RouteMaps_notile.indd 86 3/25/19 3:48 PM

88 EMIRATES FLEET

mrates eet ur fleet of aircraft includes passenger aircraft and SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800 I EET ll aircraft ,

Up to - passeners ane m m m aircraft

BOEING 777-300ER I EET ll aircraft

Up to - passeners ane m m m aircraft

BOEING 777-200LR I EET ll aircraft

, Up to passeners ane m m m or more information more or

OS_042019.P88-89_EmiratesFleet.indd 88 3/21/19 3:54 PM EMIRATES FLEET 89

ive nes i-i Mobile Data umber of sport phone roamin channels

irst lass *nboard **In-seat U In-seat hoer pa loune poer port telephone

* irst lass and usiness lass **vailable in all ros in Economy lass and in all seats in irst lass and usiness lass

BOEING 777-300 I EET ll aircraft ,

Up to passeners ane m m m

AIRBUS A319 I EET

he Emirates Eecutive rivate et taes our Up to passeners ane m m m eceptional service to the hihest level to fly you personally around the orld ly up to uests in the utmost comfort of our customised aircraft ith the fleibility of private et travel urther information at eirateseetieo

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F I EET he most environmentally-friendly freihter operated today ith the loest fuel burn of any comparably-sized caro aircraft lon ith its ide main-dec caro door hich can accommodate oversized consinments it is also ane m m m capable of carryin up to tonnes of caro non-stop on -hour sector lenths irraft numers aurate at the time of going to press at the time of going to numers aurate irraft

OS_042019.P88-89_EmiratesFleet.indd 89 3/21/19 3:54 PM FERNANDO GREDIAGA’S GUIDE TO MEXICO CITY

From Netflix’s Oscar-winning ‘Roma’, Fernando Grediaga introduces the real Mexico City

INTERVIEW: EMMA COILER

The Roma district was named by Mexico City as Famous for its cafes and coffee shops, one of its magical neighbourhoods, or “Barrios Borola on Jalapa is my favourite. Not only is Mágicos”. That says it all about Roma. It’s a place the coffee totally delicious but they have an of magic: the colours, the people, the streets. incredible choice as well. Buna on Orizaba is The great thing about Mexico City is that it is great, too; it’s located on the fountain-centred warm most of the year, so you don’t need to worry Plaza Rio de Janeiro, which is a brilliant place about the weather. I love the morning walks there for people watching. – it just makes the world seem so colourful. It’s For dinner, Salon Covadonga on Puebla is so eclectic; business people on their way to work, some of the best seafood I have had anywhere in the many juice stalls piled high with papaya’s the world. Sobrino’s on Obregon is an upmarket and melons, and the delicious smell of huevos y place if you are looking for somewhere special, frijoles (eggs and beans) coming from everywhere. and they have this great pavement bar where Roma probably has become more gentrified you can sip on a margarita while they get your over recent years, but even though it has many table ready. tourists, it doesn’t feel touristy. It still very A special place in Roma for you that sums much has that real and gritty feel to it. If you are the district up is El Moro on Obregon, a 24-hour a regular visitor, it’s the sort of place where the joint that sells churros and hot chocolate. I like bartenders remember your name – it has a real going late when the street musicians are there neighbourhood feel. after a long night playing.

Fly to Mexico City and over 70 other destinations in the US, MEXICO CITY, MEXICO 19.4326° N, 99.1332° W Caribbean and Latin America, with Emirates and Jet Blue.

OS_042019.P90_LastPage_Roma.indd 90 3/21/19 3:55 PM aadaran.pdf 1 3/21/19 3:35 PM

CMY