©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Rajasthan, &

Delhi p148 #_

Agra & the p197 •#

Rajasthan p38

Lindsay Brown, Joe Bindloss, Bradley Mayhew, Daniel McCrohan, Sarina Singh PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Rajasthan, RAJASTHAN. . . . . 38 Bundi...... 83 Delhi & Agra ...... 4 Eastern Rajasthan. . . . 39 Kota ...... 87 Rajasthan, Delhi ...... 39 ...... 88 & Agra Map...... 6 Bharatpur ...... 63 Chittorgarh (Chittor). . . . . 89 Rajasthan, Delhi ...... 66 Udaipur ...... 94 & Agra’s Top 12...... 8 Mt Abu...... 107 Need to Know...... 14 & National Park ...... 69 Northern Rajasthan First Time ...... 16 Patan ...... 71 (Shekhawati)...... 111 If You Like ...... 18 ...... 71 Nawalgarh...... 111 Jhunjhunu...... 114 Month by Month...... 21 Pushkar...... 74 Fatehpur ...... 115 Itineraries ...... 24 Ranthambhore National Park ...... 79 Mandawa...... 116 Travel with Children. . . . 30 Karauli...... 82 Jaisalmer, Jodhpur & Wildlife Watching. . . . . 32 Udaipur & Southern Western Rajasthan. . . . . 117 Regions at a Glance. . . . 35 Rajasthan...... 83 Jodhpur...... 117 MIKADUN /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

AMBER FORT P61 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Kichan & Phalodi. . . . . 127 AGRA & THE Rajasthan ...... 128 TAJ MAHAL. . . . . 197 Today ...... 220 Jaisalmer...... 128 Sights...... 198 History...... 222 Bikaner...... 140 Activities & Tours...... 206 Rajasthani Sleeping...... 206 Way of Life...... 235 DELHI...... 148 Eating...... 209 Sacred ...... 239 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 211 Sights...... 152 Arts, Crafts & Activities & Courses . . . . 169 Shopping...... 211 Architecture ...... 244 ...... 214 Tours...... 171 Rajasthani Food. . . . . 252 Sleeping...... 172 Naturally Rajasthan. . . 257 Eating...... 177 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 184 Entertainment ...... 187 SURVIVAL Shopping...... 187 GUIDE

Scams...... 262

KAWINK /SHUTTERSTOCK © Women & Solo Travellers . . . . . 264 Directory A–Z...... 266 Transport...... 276 Health...... 284 Language...... 291

SPECIAL FEATURES Wildlife Watching. . . . . 32 Jaipur Lazy Days . . . . . 45 Forts of Rajasthan. . . . . 91 Rajasthan’s Coloured Cities. . . . . 135 Arts, Crafts & AMBER FORT P61 CAMELS OUTSIDE Architecture...... 244 JAISALMER P132 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24

Itineraries

PAKISTAN DELHI

#_ É Uttar É É Pradesh

Agra Amber •# ÷#•# •# Jaipur •# Fatehpur Sikri

INDIA

1 WEEK The Golden Triangle

One route is so well loved it even has a name: the Golden Triangle. This classic Delhi– Agra–Jaipur trip can be squeezed into a single week and gives a tantalising taste of the splendours of Rajasthan. Spend a day or two in Delhi finding your feet and seeing the big-draw sights, such as the magnificent Mughal and Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Then catch a fast train to Agra to spend a day being awed by the Taj Mahal and the mighty . Only an hour away is Fatehpur Sikri, a beautiful Mughal city dating from the apogee of Mughal power. It can be visited on the way to Bharatpur, in Rajasthan, where you can enjoy a natural respite from the cities at Keoladeo National Park, one of the world’s foremost bird reserves. Having relaxed and recharged with nature, you can now take a train to Jaipur. Spend a couple of days in and around Rajasthan’s hectic, dusky-pink capital, seeing the City Palace and Amber Fort and stocking up on blue pottery, daz- zling jewellery and Rajasthani puppets before heading back to Delhi. 25

PAKISTAN DELHI #_ PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Bikaner É Uttar •# É •# Pradesh Deshnok Keoladeo

É É National Park •# Agra

÷#•# Jaisalmer •# É •# Fatehpur Sikri •# Jaipur Jodhpur •# Pushkar

It É i nerar

•#•#

Ranakpur É

•#Udaipur i es INDIA

2 WEEKS Royal Rajasthan

With a fortnight to spare, you can forget triangles and go all out for a multifaceted loop taking in Rajasthan’s most spectacular cities, all erstwhile capitals of former princely states, boasting fairy-tale palaces and formidable fortresses. You will most likely start from the nation’s capital of Delhi to see the Mughal monu- ments, such as the massive Red Fort. No trip to India is complete without a visit to the Taj Mahal at Agra. Spend two days here viewing the Taj during the day, at night and from the maze-like Agra Fort. Spend a day exploring the ghost city of Fatehpur Sikri, before heading to Keoladeo National Park for birdwatching. Next stop is the pink city of Jaipur, where you will want to spend two or three days exploring the palaces of Jaipur and Amber and the shopping bazaars of the Old City. From Jaipur, head to the sacred of Pushkar, where you can release your inner hippie or attend the camel fair. Move on to the romantic lake-town of Udaipur, visit- ing the rambling City Palace and the impressive Jagdish Temple as well as doing some shopping, relaxing on rooftops, and peering at the lake and its famous floating palace. From Udaipur, head towards the extraordinary, bustling, blue city of Jodhpur. Take time to stop at the milk-white Jain temple complex of Ranakpur and the isolated, dramatic fortifications of Kumbhalgarh – as they are fairly close together, you can visit them en route to Jodhpur within a day. In Jodhpur, visit the spectacular , a fort that towers protectively over the city like a storybook fortress. Next take an overnight train to the Golden City, Jaisalmer, a giant sandcastle in the desert, with its beautiful Jain temples and exquisite merchants’ havelis (traditional, ornately decorated mansions). Take a short camel safari through the bewitching land- scape of sweeping dunes and sleep under the stars. If you have the time on your way back to Delhi, break your journey with a stop in the desert city of Bikaner, home of the impregnable and nearest city to the famous rat temple of Deshnok. From Bikaner catch one of several trains back to Delhi. 26

aIstan DELHI #_ Mandawa É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É Bikaner •# •# Fatehpur •# Nawalgarh •# •# Deshnok seaatI É

Keoladeo É É National •# Agra É Park ÷# •# Jaisalmer •# •# Fatehpur Jaipur Sikri •# Jodhpur •# Pushkar It ÷#Ranthambhore

i nerar É National Park Bundi É Kumbhalgarh •#

É •# •#

Ranakpur

i es É •# Chittorgarh •# •# Mt Abu Udaipur InIa

4 WEEKS A Month-Long Sojourn

A month will allow you to explore Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan to their fullest extent, with plenty of time to linger along the way whenever a particular destination takes your fancy. After arriving in Delhi and exploring the city sights, take the train down to Agra to gaze at the picture-perfect Taj Mahal, explore Agra Fort and have a day trip out to the abandoned Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri. To experience Rajasthan’s wild side, head to the World Heritage–listed birdwatching paradise of Keoladeo National Park, where the sheer numbers of nesting birdlife will astound you. This can be followed by a tiger safari at Ranthambhore National Park, one of your best bets in all India for spotting a tiger. Take a Kota-bound train southwest for a stop at the charming settlement of Bundi to explore the crumbling palace and its magical art. From here it is a short train ride to Chittorgarh where one of Rajasthan’s most impressive fortresses occupies a mountain plateau. Next stop is Udaipur, where you can relax after your travels with a few easy days of sightseeing, elegant dining and souvenir shopping. From Udaipur it’s worth side-tripping to Mt Abu to see the extraordinary Delwara Temples before going north to Jodhpur. Alternatively, head north to Jodhpur, stop- ping on the way to see the magnificent fort at Kumbhalgarh and the Jain temples of Ranakpur. From Jodhpur it’s an easy train or bus ride to Jaisalmer, the desert town with a romantic, picturesque fort rising from the golden sands. Here you can spend a few days exploring havelis and temples, before taking an overnight camel trek into the desert. After Jaisalmer, head east across the desert to Bikaner. Travel south from Bikaner, stopping at the fascinating rat temple of Deshnok before coming to rest at the sacred pilgrimage town of Pushkar. At Pushkar you may be in time for the famous camel festival; otherwise, just put your feet up for a few days and soak up the serenity. From Pushkar, it’s a short hop to Jaipur, with its fabulous citadel at Amber and great shopping. Head north to Shekhawati for a few days, inspecting havelis at Mandawa, Nawalgarh and Fatehpur, before returning to Delhi. 27

arana aIstan Fatehpur •# Mandawa •# •# •# É

É Deshnok Nawalgarh

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É É

•# •# •#Jaipur

Jaisalmer Osian Pushkar É •# •# Ajmer It

i nerar

É É i es Ranakpur•#

É Mt Abu É •# •# Udaipur InIa

Painted 3 Sacred Rajasthan 4 WEEKS DAYS Shekhawati

Temples abound in Rajasthan. These in- The fabulous frescoes of Shekhawati can be clude Hindu and Jain edifices, plus mosques, scouted out in three or four days by moving gurdwaras and a scattering of churches. between three or four of the region’s towns. Here are some of the more noteworthy. A bonus is the chance to stay in restored Starting in Jaipur, there’s the popular havelis once inhabited by prosperous trad- Ganesh Temple that sees scores of worship- ers, and to explore the backstreets on foot. pers every Wednesday. Other temples in Nawalgarh is only a couple of hours’ Jaipur include the Govind Devji (Krishna) drive from Jaipur and offers accommoda- Temple inside the city palace, and Galta the tion ranging from thatch-roofed rural huts ‘monkey temple’, swarming with monkeys. to grand and luxurious havelis. There’s Ajmer boasts one of the most important even a palace. Base yourself here to visit Sufi shrines in the world, the Dargah of restored havelis and museums; don’t forget Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, and the fas- to wander around and discover the fading cinating Soniji Ki Nasiyan (Red) Temple; its gems on lesser-known, crumbling havelis. unremarkable exterior hides a fantastical From Nawalgarh head north to Man- golden diorama depicting the Jain concept dawa. Mandawa can lay claim to the most of the ancient world. Pushkar has one of accommodation options suited for travel- the very few temples devoted to Brahma. lers, including a grand castle, and it also At Udaipur, the Hindu Jagdish Temple is has several havelis worth a look for their always a riot of colour and fervent worship- whimsical murals of 18th-century life. ping, while up at Mt Abu, the intricately West of Mandawa, is the dusty hamlet carved Delwara Temples are Jain master- of Fatehpur, a town now famed for its pieces. The Chaumukha Mandir in Ranak- restored Le Prince Haveli, where French pur and Mahavira Temple in Osian can be artist Nadine Le Prince rejuvenated the visited on the way to Jaisalmer, whose fort frescoes and hosted visiting artists. It shelters several finely carved Jain temples. is now an inviting boutique hotel amid Last on the list is Karni Mata, the rat tem- a town of deteriorating yet tantalising ple of Deshnok, south of Bikaner. treasures.

28

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN OFF THE BEATEN TRACK BEATEN THE OFF

# km O the Beaten rak - R#•ajasthan e miles 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 DESK 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 ALWAR t t5 r 5 5 5 5 a t t 5 5 5 5 5 s 5 5 s t P A K I S T A N t 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5r 5 5 5 5 5 5 #• a 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 e

v 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 i

HARYANA a

5 5 5 5 5 5 PATA

UTTAR

5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

#• a PRADESH SA t 5 5 5 #• 5 5 5 5 5 t t 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 RÎ9 5 5 5 5 Rajgarh 5 #• DELHI # 5 5 5 5 5 5 RT S 5 5 5 Churu 5 D RÎ48 #• 5 5 5 5 5 Ramgarh Jhunjhunu R #• 5 5 5 5 A Gajner Bikaner #• 5 H Wildlife #• #• #• RÎ19 5 5 5 5 T #ë Ratangarh #• Mandawa 5 5 #• Sanctuary #• Fatehpur Shekhawati PATA 5 Kishangarh #• #ë #•Nawalgarh al #•DESK #• a Kolayat Tal Chhapar 5 5 5 hi Sikar #• #• Kotputli a Wildlife a #• Udaipurvati 5 i #• Nokha Sanctuary ALWAR #• DEEG RÎ52 5 •#5 Ramgarh #• RÎ11 Khichan Shahpura #• #÷ Sariska Tiger Bird Reserve Bharatpur AGAR National Park Phalodi #ë Sanctuary #• 5 #• Agra #• #• Lodhruva #• aha AGAR RÎ21 #•Fatehpur al ae Amber #• 5#÷ #• Sikri Sam #• #• Keoladeo5 Jaisalmer SA 44 Jaipur #• National Park #• Pokaran #• #•Dausa Dholpur #• #÷ #• 44 Dholpur #• #÷ #•Khuri #• Desert Pushkar Kishangarh KARAL #• 4#• 4 #• National Mandore #• Park Ajmer Jodhpur #• ive i Ranthambhore asa a #•Tonk National Park #• Beawar #÷ #•Rohet RÎ52 #• •#Kekri Sawai Balotra Munabao Pali Madhopur #• #• RÎ48 #• Barmer #•5 #• Deoli 5 RÎ46 RÎ62 #• e Deogarh v i #•Bundi 68 RÎ Bhilwara i #• Kumbhalgarh #• #• Bijolia #•Kota Ranakpur #• Rajsamand #• Bijaipur Guru Saira #• Chittorgarh #• #Þ Baroli Mt Abu Shikar #• 44 AGAR4444 Wildlife (1m) Sanctuary R O : #• #ë ALAWAR Mt Abu #•Udaipur #• : : : #•Abu 44: :4: :4: 4: 4 Road ahi N aa : : RÎ48 aisaa MADHYA : :R: ae PRADESH : : Dungarpur 4444444 #• : : : : : : : KARAL Banswara 44: 44444 #• O : : AGAR R 444: T:4 : 4 4 B4 ALAWAR : : : T : : : : : : : 444444:4: : : : : : : 444 44: : 5 : : 5 : 5

: : : 5:

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN OFF THE BEATEN TRACK BEATEN THE OFF

44 29 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 298

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

and Kevin. In Delhi, a big thank you to Pradeep, Sha- READER THANKS hadutt, Pash, Catriona and Paula (amessing!), and of Many thanks to the travellers who used the last course to Nick, and to Dilip and his beautiful family, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful for being such wonderful hosts. advice and interesting anecdotes: Ian Gardner, John Eadington, Karen Chamberlain, Sarina Singh Mark Adams, Maurice Catherall, Nigel Tully, Surekha Gratitude to the many readers who wrote to us with Narain their feedback and travel experiences. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Joe for being such a delightful edi- tor; to my fellow co-writers; and to everyone involved AUTHOR THANKS in this book’s production. Finally, warm thanks to my Lindsay Brown parents for always being so fantastic. Thanks to all the folks who assisted me throughout my travels in Rajasthan. I am very grateful to Satin- der, Ritu, Raj, Dicky and Kavita in Jaipur, Anoop and ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Bunty in Pushkar, Nikhil and Atush in Jodhpur, Ravin- BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the dra in Ranthambhore, Harsh in Bikaner, Vikram in Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Jaisalmer, and Keshav and Manish in Bundi. Special Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. thanks to Jenny. Cover photograph: Sari factory, Rajasthan, Tuul & Bruno Morandi/Getty Images © Bradley Mayhew llustrations pp216–17 by Michael Weldon, pp154–5 Thanks to Rouf in Rinagar; Anil and Ramesh Wadhwa and pp200–1 by Javier Zarracina. in Agra; Zaheer Bagh in Kargil; Juma Malik and Tashi of Hidden North in Leh; Harish and Michael Schmid in Varanasi. Thanks to Carolyn for keeping me company in Varanasi. Daniel McCrohan Love, hugs and kisses to my amazingly patient wife, Taotao, and two incredible children, Dudu and Yoyo; and to mum for helping out so much. At LP, huge thanks to Joe for trusting in me, and to my fellow writers, especially Abi, Isabella, John, Bradley, Mark 299 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Destination Editor Forge, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, THIS BOOK Joe Bindloss Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, This 6th edition of Lonely Senior Product Editors Kate Jodie Martire, Alison Morris, Planet’s Rajasthan, Delhi & Chapman, Anne Mason Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, Chris Pitts, Agra guidebook was curated Product Editor Kate James by Lindsay Brown. This guide Simon Williamson Senior Cartographer was researched and written by Valentina Kremenchutskaya Cover Researcher Lindsay, Joe Bindloss, Bradley Naomi Parker Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Mayhew, Daniel McCrohan and Thanks to Jennifer Carey, Assisting Editors Sarah Sarina Singh. The previous Lauren Egan, Bailey Freeman, Bailey, James Bainbridge, edition was written by Lindsay Evan Godt, Gemma Graham, Judith Bamber, Imogen Brown, Bradley Mayhew and Niamh O’Brien, Matt Phillips, Bannister, Katie Connolly, Abigail Blasi. This guidebook Ross Taylor was produced by the following: Andrea Dobbin, Samantha ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 300

Index

A travel to/from 213-14 B food 252, 253, 255 Abhaneri 62 travel within 214 Bala Quila 67 health 286 accessible travel 266 Agra Fort 202-5 baoris, see step-wells history 227, 229, 231, 233 accommodation 16, 266-7 Ahhichatragarh 128 bargaining 17 border crossings (to children 31 air pollution 288 bathrooms 274 Pakistan) 126, 276-7 costs 176, 208 air travel bazaars, see markets & Brahma 240 language 292 to/from India 276 bazaars bread 252 palaces 16 within India 277 bears 259 British Company 229 activities 21-3, see also airlines 276, 277 beer 256 individual activities Ajmer 71-4, 72 begging 235 British empire 229-31 Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 72-3 , Emperor 227 Bhagavad Gita 241 budget 15, 176, 184, 267, 269 Adivasis 238 alcohol 256 bhang 270 Bundi 12, 83-7, 84, 12 Agra 36, 197-218, 198, altitude sickness 289 bhang lassi 256 Bundi Palace 83, 12 203, 8 Alwar 66-9 Bhangarh 69 bus travel 277-8, 281 accommodation 197, Amber 61-3 Bharatpur 63-6, 64 206-9 business hours 15, 271 Amber Fort 11, 61-2, 91, 2, Bhil people 238 activities 206 11, 90 bicycle travel, see cycling airports 213 amoebic dysentery 287 Bikaner 140-6, 142-3 autorickshaws 214 C animals 258-60, see bird flu 287 camel rides 11, 23, 132-3, bus travel 213 also wildlife, individual birds 259-60, 33 144, see also safaris climate 197 species birdwatching camels 19-20, 12 costs 208 antelopes 258 books 259 car travel 195, 278-9 cycle-rickshaws 214 archaeological sites Desert National Park 140 carpets 246 drinking 211 Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra Guda Bishnoi 126 caste system 239-41 emergency services 212 72-3 Keoladeo National cell phones 14, 273 Bala Quila 67 festivals 205 Park 63-5 cenotaphs 247 163 food 197, 209-11 Kichan 127 84-Pillared Cenotaph 83 Archaeological history 198 Kota 87-8 Park 168-9 Cenotaph of Maharaja medical services 212 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Bakhtawar Singh 67 Qutab Minar Complex money 212 Sanctuary 106 168 Cenotaph of Mumtaz nightlife 211 Mt Abu 107 Mahal 202 architecture 246-7 postal services 212 Ranthambhore National Cenotaphs of the arts 244-5, see also Park 79 Maharanis of Jaipur 47 safe travel 212 individual arts Bishnoi people 238 Jaswant Thada 120 shopping 211 ATMs 270 block printing 245-6, 249, Royal Gaitor 47 sights 198-206 Aurangzeb, Emperor 228-9 250 chai 255 taxis 214 autorickshaws 281 boat trips chaat galli 210 tourist information avian flu 287 212-13 Agra 204 chhatris see cenotaphs ayurveda tours 206 Kota 87-8 children, travel with 30-1 Agra 209 train travel 214 Mt Abu 107 chinkaras 258 Bundi 86 Udaipur 96-7 Chitrasala 83 Delhi 171 books 220 Chittorgarh (Chittor) 89-94, Map Pages 000 Jaipur 49 birdwatching 259 92, 20, 90 Photo Pages 000 culture 237, 245 301 cholera 287 climate 148 deserts 257 cooking courses 9, 75, cinema 220, 245 costs 176, 184 dhal 253 169-71 City Palace (Alwar) 67 courses 169-71 dhurries 246 costs 184 City Palace (Jaipur) 42-3 cycle-rickshaws 195 diarrhoea 287-8 for children 30-1 City Palace (Kota) 87 cycling 195 disabilities, travellers health 288 City Palace (Udaipur) 95 dangers 190-1 with 266 language 292-4 INDEX INDEX climate 14, 21-3, see also drinking 184-7 divorce 235-6 scams 262 individual regions entertainment 187 Diwali 23 street food 182 climate change 276 festivals & events 149 dormitories 267 vegetarian travellers 253 -C  clothing 17 food 148, 177-84 drinking water 287 forts 20, 91, 247, see also palaces  G coffee 256 Greater Delhi 168-9, 177, drinks 255-6 commission agents 263 184, 186-7, 190 scams 262 Agra Fort 202-5 consulates 268-9 (Gurugram) driving 195, 278-9 Ahhichatragarh 128 cooking courses 168-9, 177, 184, 186-7, drugs 270 Amber Fort 11, 61-2, 91, , , Delhi 169-70 190 safe travel 262 2 11 90 Bala Quila 67 Jaipur 49 highlights 150-1 scams 262 Chittorgarh 89-93, Pushkar 75 history 149 dysentery 287 20, 90 costs 15, 176, 184, 267, 269 internet access 191 89, 91 courses, see also individual Lodi Colony 164-8, 176, Jaigarh 62 locations 183-4, 186, 190 E 10, 91, cooking 49, 75, 169-71 Majnu-ka-Tilla 153, 188 economy 221 129, 10, 17 crafts 99 media 191 electricity 268 Junagarh 91. 141 meditation 49, 170-1 medical services 191 embassies 268-9 Kankwari Fort 69 music 75-6, 99 metro 195 embroidery 246 yoga 49, 98, 170-1 mobile phones 191 emergencies 15 Kumbhalgarh 91, 105, 91 cranes 127 158-63, 175, language 294 Lohagarh 63 credit cards 271 181-3, 185-6, 189, enamelwork 245 Mehrangarh 91, 118- 20, 91 scams 262 160-1 environment 257-60 Nahargarh 47 cricket 238 nightlife 184-7 environmental issues 221 164 culture 221, 235-8 Nizamuddin 164-8, 176, etiquette 17 183-4, 186, 190 Ranthambhore Fort currency 270 events see festivals & 152-8, 172-3, 80, 91 customs regulations 267-8 events 177-9, 184-5, 187-8, Red Fort 152-5, 167 cycle-rickshaws 281 exchange rates 15 156-7 163-4 cycling 277 Paharganj 158, 173-4, Taragarh 83-4 Bikaner 142 174-5, 179-81, 185, F Timangarh 82 Delhi 195 188-9, 174 Fatehpur 115-16 Tughlaqabad 169 Jaipur 49 postal services 192 Fatehpur Sikri 214-18, frescoes 245 Udaipur 99 safe travel 190-1 216-17 shopping 187-90 Fatehpuri Masjid 158 sights 152-69 festivals & events 19, 21-3 G D 163-4, 176, Delhi 149 Gadi Sagar 131, 5 dance 244 183, 186, 189-90, Diwali 23 Gagron Fort 89, 91 dancing bears 212 178-9 Holi 21, 19 Galta 47-9 dangers, see safe travel Sunder Nagar 164-8, 176, Jaipur Elephant Festival galleries, see museums & Deeg 68 183-4, 186, 190 21-2 galleries deer 258 taxis 195 Jaipur Literature Festival Gandhi, Indira 163 dehydration 289 tourist information 192 21, 52 Gandhi, Mahatma 231 Delhi 10, 36, 148-96, 150-1, tours 171-2 Jaisalmer Desert Gandhi Museum 160-1 , , , Festival 21, 136 156-7 160-1 170-1 train travel 193, 194 National Gandhi , 174 178-9 travel to/from 192-4 Pushkar Camel Fair 12, Museum 162 accommodation 148, 23, 76, 12 travel within 194-6 Raj Ghat memorial 161-2 172-7 Rajasthan 50 Delwara Temples 109 Gandhi Smriti 160-1 activities 169-71 films 220, 245 dengue fever 287 Ganesh 240 airports 192 food 17, 252-6, 269, Desert Cultural Centre & gardens, see parks & bus travel 192-4 see also individual Museum 136 gardens car-sharing services 195 locations Desert National Park 140 gay travellers 270 302 gazelles 258 HIV 288 courses 49 nightlife 124 gems 57, 245, 263 Holi 21, 19 drinking 56-7 shopping 124 geography 257 holidays 272 entertainment 57 sights 118-21 giardiasis 287 homestays 267 food 53-6 tourist information 124 golf 45 horse riding history 39 transport to/from 124-5 Guda Bishnoi 126 Nawalgarh 112 medical services 58 transport within 125 INDEX INDEX Gurdwara Bangla Sahib Udaipur 98 nightlife 56-7 Junagarh 91. 141 159 hotels 267 shopping 57-8 Gurgaon (Gurugram) Humayun’s Tomb 164, 167 sights 42-9 G- 168-9  tourist information 58-9 K M Guru Shikhar 257 Kaila Devi Game  tours 49-50 Sanctuary 82 I transport to/from 59-60 immigration 276 Kali 240 transport within 60-1 H Independence 231 Kankwari Fort 69 Hanuman 240 walking tour 54 indigenous people 238 Karachi 126 havelis 13, 111, 115, 247, 13 Jaipur Elephant Festival influenza 288 Karauli 82 Baa Ri Haveli 132 21-2 Keoladeo National Park 32, Bhagton ki Choti Haveli insect bites & stings Jaipur Literature Festival 63-5, 33 112 289-90 21, 52 insurance Khejadali 126 Binsidhar Newatia Jaisalmer 128-39, 130-1, Khuri 140 Haveli 116 health 284 5, 10, 17 Le Prince Haveli 116 motorcycle 280 accommodation 136-7 Kichan 127-8 Modi Havelis 114 travel 269 drinking 138 Kipling, Rudyard 85 Mohanlal Ishwardas internet access 269 festivals 136 Kota 87-8 Modi Haveli 114 internet resources 15 food 138 Krishna 240 Murmuria Haveli 116 health 286 history 129 Kumbhalgarh 91, 105-6, 91 Nathmal-ki-Haveli 133 women travellers 265 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Patwa-ki-Haveli 132-3 shopping 138-9 Isarlat 43 Sanctuary 106 Hawa Mahal 43 sights 129-36 Islam 225-6, 241-2 health 284-90 tourist information 139 itineraries 24-9, 134-5, , 24 tours 136 L carbon monoxide 25, 26, 27, 134 poisoning 290 transport to/from 139 children 31 transport within 139 Gadi Sagar 131, 5 environmental hazards J Jaisalmer Desert Jait Sagar 84-5 288-90 jackals 259 Festival 21, 136 96-7, 13 food 288 Jagmandir Island 97 Jaisalmer Fort 10, 91, 129, 107 , heat 288-9 Jai Singh II 39, 43 10 17 language 14, 291-7 Jama Masjid (Agra) 206 insurance 284 Jaigarh 62 leatherwork 245 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 153 medicines 285 Jain temples legal matters 269-70 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur vaccinations 284-5 Bhandasar Temple 141 Sikri) 215-18 leopards 359 water 287 Chaumukha Mandir 106 Jantar Mantar (Delhi) lesbian travellers 270 women 290 Delwara Temples 109 159, 166 LGBT+ travellers 270 healthcare 286 Digambara Jain Temple Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 43 literature, see books heatstroke 288-9 153 jeep travel 281 Lodi Garden 165, 166 hepatitis 287 Jaisalmer fort temples Jehangir, Emperor 227-8 Lohagarh 63 129-31 highlights 8-13 jewellery 245 Luna Vasahi Temple 109 hijras 237 Jhalana Forest Reserve 34 Mahavira Temple 127 M hiking Jhalawar 88-9 Neelkanth Mahadev Jain magazines 268 Mt Abu 107, 108 Jhunjhunu 114 Temple 93 241 Nawalgarh 112 Jodhpur 11, 117-25, 118-19, Soniji Ki Nasiyan (Red) Majnu-ka-Tilla 153 Udaipur 101 11, 91, 135, 248, 250 Temple 72 malaria 286 Hinduism 239-41 accommodation 121-3 Vimal Vasahi 109 Mandawa 116-17, 12 history 222-34 activities 121 Jainism 243 markets & bazaars 18 drinking 124 Jaipur 9, 39-61, 46-7, 54, 187-8 festivals 121 9, 44-5, 134, 251 Jaipur 57 Map Pages food 123-4 000 accommodation 50-3 Janpath & Tibetan Photo Pages 000 activities 49 history 117-18 Markets 189 303 Khan Market 190 City Palace (Udaipur) 95 O Phalodi 127-8 Kinari Bazaar 205-6 Crafts Museum 159 observatories photography 263, 271 Main Bazaar 188 Dadha Heritage Jantar Mantar (Delhi) planning Majnu-ka-Tilla 153, 188 Museum 128 159 budget 15 Meharchand Market 190 Desert Cultural Centre & Jantar Mantar calendar of events 21-3 (Jaipur) 43 Sadar Bazaar 78 Museum 136 children, travel with 31 opening hours 15, 271 INDEX Spice Market 188 Dr Ramnath A Podar first-time visitors 16-17 Haveli Museum 111 opium 237 Subhash Bazaar 211 India basics 14-15 Fort Palace Museum 129 Osian 126-7 marriage 235-6 itineraries 24-9, 134-5, Gandhi Smriti 160-1  M-R mausoleums, see 24, 25, 26, 27, 134 cenotaphs, tombs Ghar Palace 89 regional overviews 35-6 Government Museum 96 P measures 268 paan 255 travel seasons 21-3 media 268 Indira Gandhi Memorial police 270 Museum 163 painting 244-5 medical services 286 politics 221 Lohagarh Museum 63 Pakistan (border meditation crossings) 126, 276-7 pollution 288 Mehrangarh Delhi 170-1 population 221 Museum 120 palaces 18, 247, see also Jaipur 49 forts postal services 271-2 Morarka Haveli Mehrangarh 118-20, 91, 91 Museum 111-12 Bundi Palace 83, 12 pottery 246 metro travel 281 National Gandhi Chitrasala 83 public holidays 272 Mina people 238 Museum 162 City Palace (Alwar) 67 public transport 280-1 miniatures 244 National Museum City Palace (Jaipur) women travellers 265 mobile phones 14, 273 159-60 42-3 puppetry 246 money 14, 15, 17, 270-1 Nehru Memorial City Palace (Kota) 87 Purana Qila 164 money changers 271 Museum 163 City Palace (Udaipur) 95 Puranas 241 monkeys 165, 168-9, 259 Prachina Cultural Centre Fatehpur Sikri palace Pushkar 74-9, 75, 12 & Museum 141 monuments & statues 215 accommodation 76-8 Rao Madho Singh 159 Fort Palace Museum 129 food 78 Museum 87 Clock Tower 121 Ghar Palace 89 shopping 78 Taj Museum 199 Raj Ghat 161-2 Hawa Mahal 9, 43, 9 sights 74-5 Thar Heritage Royal Gaitor 47 Jal Mahal 47 Museum 136 transport to/from 79 mosques Old City Palace 82 transport within 79 Vintage & Classic Car Patan Mahal 71 Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra Collection 98 Pushkar Camel Fair 12, 23, 72-3 Sajjan Garh 98 76, 12 Fatehpuri Masjid 158 Sukh Mahal 84 Jama Masjid (Agra) 206 N Suraj Mahl’s Palace 68 Jama Masjid (Delhi) Nagaur 128 Umaid Bhawan Palace Q 153, 166 Nahargarh 47 120-1 Qutab Minar 168, 10 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur National Gandhi paper making 246 Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid 168 Sikri) 215-18 Museum 162 parks & gardens, see Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid National Museum 159-60 also national parks 168 & reserves, wildlife national parks & reserves R 260, see also wildlife reserves motorcycle travel 279-80 rabies 288 reserves Lodi Garden 165, 166 movies 220, 245 radio 268 Mt Abu 107-11, 108 Desert National Park Mehrauli Archaeological 140 Park 168-9 Rajasthan 35, 38-147, Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary 40-1 107-8 Jhalana Forest Reserve Mehtab Bagh 205 34, 49 accommodation 38 Mughals 226-9 Raj Ghat 161-2 Keoladeo National Park climate 38 murals 115 Ram Niwas Bagh 46 32, 63-5, 33 festivals 50 museums & galleries Rao Jodha Desert Rock Ranthambhore National Park 120 food 38 Alwar Museum 67 Park 12, 32, 34, 79-82, 165 highlights 40-1 Anokhi Museum of Hand 80, 12, 33 history 39 Printing 63 Partition 231 Nawalgarh 111-13 223-5 Baa Ri Haveli 132 Parvati 240 Nehru, Jawaharlal 163 Ramadan 22 Bagore-ki-Haveli 98 passports 276 Nehru Memorial Ramayana 241 Central Museum 43 Museum 163 Patan 71 Ranakpur 106-7 City Palace (Kota) 87 newspapers 268 phad 242, 244-5 304 Ranthambhore Fort 80, 91 Siri Fort 163-4 Laxmi Narayan Temple tuberculosis 288 Ranthambhore National Sisodias 224 131-2 Tughlaqabad 169 Park 12, 32, 34, 79-82, sloth bears 212, 259 Meera Temple 92-3 TV 268 80, 12, 33 smoking 270 Old Rangji Temple 74 typhoid 288 Red Fort 152-5, 167 solo travellers 265 Pap Mochani (Gayatri) refugees 153 sound-and-light shows Temple 75 INDEX INDEX religion 221, 239-43 Amber Fort 62 Raghunath Temple 107 U Uber 195, 265, 280-1 rice 252-3 Chittorgarh 92 Ramakrishna Mission 158 Udaipur 13, 94-105, 96, 13 rickshaws 281 Kumbhalgarh 105 R-W Sachiya Mata accommodation 99-101  rugs 246 Purana Qila 164 Temple 127 activities 98 ruins, see archaeological Udaipur 103  sites Sai Ka Angan drinking 102 statues, see monuments & Temple 169 statues entertainment 102-3 Savitri Mata Temple 74 step-wells 247 food 101-2 S Shri Parashnath history 95 sacred texts 241 Chand Baori 62 Temple 127 medical services 103 safaris, see also camel Nagar Sagar Kund 83 Surya Mandir 48-9 nightlife 102 rides Raniji-ki-Baori 83 textiles 245-6 shopping 103 Bikaner 141-2, 144 Sufism 243 thalis 254 sights 95-8 Bishnoi 126 Suraj Mahl’s Palace 68 11, 19-20, 220, tourist information 104 Jaisalmer 132-3 257, 11 tours 99 Jhalana Forest Reserve theft 263 T transport to/from 104 49 Tibetan refugees 153 Taj Mahal 9, 36, 199, 202, Kumbhalgarh Wildlife transport within 104-5 204, 207, 8 tigers 69, 70, 79, 258-9, Sanctuary 106 12, 33 Umaid Bhawan Palace Taragarh 83-4 120-1 Osian 127 Timangarh 82 taxes Ranthambhore National time 14, 273-4 Park 80-1 accommodation 267 car hire 278 tipping 17, 271 V Sariska Tiger Reserve & toilets 274 vacations 272 National Park 69 departure 277 tombs, see also cenotaphs vaccinations 284-5 safe travel 272-3 food & drink 269 Akbar’s Mausoleum 205 Vedas 241 Delhi 190-1 taxis 281 car-sharing services 195 Dargah of Khwaja Muin- vegetarian travellers 253 drugs 262 ud-din Chishti 71-2 women travellers 265 visas 14, 274-5 health 288-90 Hazrat Nizam-ud-din tea 255 Vishnu 240 scams 262-3 Dargah 165 telephone services 14, 273 volunteering 275 solo travellers 265 Humayun’s Tomb 164, temples, see also Jain transport 265 167 temples water 287 Jamali’s tomb 168 Akshardham Temple 168 W women travellers 191, Royal Gaitor 47 walking tours 54 Bahai House of 264-5 Safdarjang’s Tomb 168 Worship 163 War of Salawas 126 tour scames 263 Independence 230 Brahma Temple 74 Sam Sand Dunes 140 tourist information 274 water 287 Galta 47-9 Sariska Tiger Reserve weather 14, 21-3, see also Gurdwara Bangla tours, see individual & National Park 34, individual regions Sahib 159 locations 69-70, 34 weaving 246 Hanuman Temple touts 191, 236, 263 scams 262-3 (Delhi) 165 train travel 281-3 websites, see internet Shekhawati 13, 111-17, 112 resources Hanuman Temple transport to/from India Shiva 240 (Sariska Tiger Reserve 276-7 weights 268 shopping 17, 18 & National Park) 69 transport within India 15, wi-fi 269 shrines, see cenotaphs, Jagdish Temple 97 277-83 wildlife 18, 32-4, 258-60 tombs Jhandewalan Hanuman safe travel 265 wildlife reserves, see Sikhism 242-3 Temple 159 scams 263 also national parks & Singhasini 126 Kaila Devi 82 solo travellers 265 reserves Karni Mata traveller’s diarrhoea 286-7 Agra Bear Rescue Facility 212 Temple 146 trekking, see hiking, safaris Map Pages Elephant Conservation 000 Kumbha Shyam tribal groups 238 Photo Pages 000 Temple 93 Centre 212 305 Kaila Devi Game Sajjan Garh Wildlife World Heritage Sites Y Sanctuary 82 Sanctuary 98 Fatehpur Sikri 214-18, yoga classes Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sariska Tiger Reserve 216-17 Delhi 170-1 Sanctuary 106 & National Park 34, Jantar Mantar Jaipur 49 Mt Abu Wildlife 69, 34 (Jaipur) 43 Udaipur 98 Sanctuary 107 wine 256 Keoladeo National Park

Ranthambhore National women in Rajasthan 236-7 32, 63-5, 33 INDEX Park 12, 32, 34, 79-82, women travellers 191, Taj Mahal 9, 36, 199, 202, 80, 12, 33 264-5, 290 204, 207, 8-9 W-Y   306 NOTES 307 NOTES 308 NOTES 309 NOTES FARAH MESBAHI

LONELY PLANET IN THE WILD

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week! 310

Map Legend

its noation outes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building eoaic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout oundaies oo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed ctiities Pass Regional/Suburb ouses ous Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Poulation Course/Tour Capital (National) ydoay Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool ansot Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular eas leein Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MTR/MRT station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking atin Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Taxi inin itlie Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) ntetainent Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove oin Shopping ote ot all sols displaed aove appear on the aps in this oo ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sarina Singh After finishing her business degree Sarina bought a one-way ticket to India where she met an aspiring photographer who asked her to write a paragraph for one of his photos in the hope he could get it published. The magazine asked Singh to turn her 100-word ‘caption’ into a 3000-word feature, and so began her accidental writing career. After five years in India she returned to her home town of Melbourne to pursue postgraduate studies. Sarina has written on 50 Lonely Planet titles, including more than 10 editions of India; four editions of Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra and three editions of . She has also written for dozens of other international publications such as the UK’s Sunday Times and the USA’s National Geographic Traveler. Find her on Twitter @ sarina_singh and www.sarinasingh.com. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Lindsay Brown Rajasthan Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. Since becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has co-authored more than 45 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia, Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea.

Joe Bindloss Joe first got the travel bug on a grand tour of Asia in the early 1990s, and he’s been roaming around its temples and paddy fields ever since on dozens of assignments for Lonely Planet and other publishers, covering everywhere from Myanmar and Thailand to India and Nepal. Joe was Lonely Planet’s des- tination editor for the Indian subcontinent until 2019. See more of his work at www.bindloss.co.uk.

Bradley Mayhew Agra & the Taj Mahal Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years. He start- ed travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the co-writer of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s ten most scenic long-distance trails. Brad- ley has also written for Rough Guides, has contributed chapters to Silk Road: Monks, Warriors & Merchants and is a co-writer of Insight Guide’s Silk Road.

Daniel McCrohan Delhi Daniel is a British travel writer who specialises in Asia and who has au- thored more than 40 guidebooks for Lonely Planet and Trailblazer. His expertise lies in China and India, but he has written guides to countries right across the continent, including Mongolia, Russia, Tibet, Thailand and Bangladesh. He also has written numerous British walking guides. Daniel has been a guest speaker at international travel shows, and was a co-host on the Lonely Planet television series Best in China. He speaks Chinese fluently and badly, owns three cycle rickshaws and never uses cars. Find him on Twitter (@danielmccrohan).

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 6th edition – Oct 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 368 1 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’