©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Great Britain

Central & Northern Argyll, Central & Highlands & Islands Northeast p892 p836

#_Edinburgh p771 Glasgow & Southern Newcastle & The Lake District Scotland Northeast England & Cumbria p624 p802 ! p588 Yorkshire Manchester, Liverpool p497 & Northwest England ! p553 Snowdonia & Birmingham, North the Midlands & Hay-on-Wye p728 the Marches Cambridge & & Mid-Wales ! p407 East Anglia p704 p367

! Cardiff, Pembrokeshire ! #_ London p62 & South Wales Canterbury & p657 Bath & Southwest Southeast England England Oxford, p148 p229 Cotswolds & Around p184

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Neil Wilson, Oliver Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Peter Dragicevich, Damian Harper, Anna Kaminski, Catherine Le Nevez, Andy Symington PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Great ENGLAND . . . . 59 Cheltenham...... 216 Britain ...... 6 Forest of Dean ...... 219 Great Britain Map. . . . . 8 LONDON ...... 62 Buckinghamshire, Great Britain’s Top 26. . . . 10 Bedfordshire & Hertfordshire ...... 221 Need to Know...... 22 CANTERBURY & St Albans...... 222 First Time Great SOUTHEAST The Thames Valley. . . . 224 Britain ...... 24 ENGLAND ...... 148 Windsor & Eton ...... 224 What’s New...... 26 Kent ...... 149 Bray ...... 227 If You Like…...... 27 Canterbury ...... 149 Margate...... 158 Month by Month...... 31 BATH & SOUTHWEST Broadstairs...... 160 Itineraries ...... 35 ENGLAND ...... 229 Ramsgate...... 161 Hampshire...... 233 The Great Outdoors. . . . 40 Sandwich...... 161 Winchester ...... 233 Eat & Drink Dover ...... 163 Like a Local...... 45 Portsmouth...... 237 East Sussex...... 166 ...... 241 Travel with Children. . . . 49 Rye...... 168 Lymington...... 244 Regions at a Glance. . . . 52 Hastings...... 169 Isle of Wight...... 245 Eastbourne...... 171 TOM BONAVENTURE / GETTY IMAGES © Dorset...... 250 Brighton & Hove...... 173 Bournemouth...... 250 West Sussex ...... 180 Poole...... 252 Arundel ...... 180 Dorchester & Around. . .. 256 Chichester...... 181 Weymouth...... 259 Surrey...... 182 Isle of Portland...... 261 Farnham...... 182 Sherborne...... 264 Shaftesbury & Around . . .266 OXFORD, Wiltshire...... 266 COTSWOLDS & Salisbury & Around. . . . . 267 BRITISH MUSEUM, LONDON AROUND ...... 184 P103 Stonehenge...... 271 Oxford ...... 186 Avebury...... 275 Woodstock...... 199

CHAD EHLERS / GETTY IMAGES © Exmoor National Witney ...... 200 Park ...... 278 The Cotswolds ...... 200 Lynton & Lynmouth. . . . . 280 Cirencester...... 201 Dunster ...... 282 Burford...... 204 Devon...... 283 Stow-on-the-Wold . . . . . 208 Exeter & Around...... 284 Chipping Campden. . . . 210 Torquay & Around . . . . . 289 Winchcombe...... 212 Dartmouth & Around. . .. 292 Painswick...... 214 Totnes & Around...... 294 Western ­ Plymouth & Around. . . . . 296 Gloucestershire . . . . . 216 ROYAL MILE, EDINBURGH Dartmoor National P773 Berkeley...... 216 Park ...... 300 Contents

Bristol...... 310 Warwick...... 422 Helmsley...... 522 Bath ...... 320 Stratford-upon-Avon. . . . 425 Whitby...... 525 Somerset...... 330 Staffordshire...... 432 Yorkshire Dales Wells & Around...... 330 Lichfield...... 432 National Park ...... 530 Glastonbury ...... 333 Worcestershire...... 435 Skipton...... 531 Cornwall...... 337 Worcester ...... 435 Ribblesdale & the Three Peaks...... 533 Boscastle...... 339 Great Malvern...... 437 Hawes...... 534 Padstow & Rock...... 341 Herefordshire...... 439 Richmond ...... 536 Newquay...... 343 Hereford...... 439 West Yorkshire . . . . . 537 St Ives ...... 346 Ledbury...... 442 Leeds...... 537 Penzance...... 352 Shropshire...... 443 Hebden Bridge...... 544 Falmouth & Around. . . . . 356 Shrewsbury...... 443 Haworth...... 545 Truro...... 358 Ironbridge Gorge...... 447 South Yorkshire . . . . . 547 Fowey...... 360 Church Stretton & Sheffield ...... 548 Looe...... 361 Around...... 453 Ludlow...... 454 East Riding Bodmin Moor ...... 362 of Yorkshire...... 549 Nottinghamshire . . . . 457 Isles of Scilly. . . . . 363 Hull...... 549 Nottingham...... 457 Beverley...... 551 CAMBRIDGE & Newark-on-Trent...... 464 EAST ANGLIA. . . . 367 Lincolnshire...... 464 Lincoln...... 465 MANCHESTER, Cambridgeshire . . . . . 370 LIVERPOOL & Stamford...... 469 Cambridge...... 371 NORTHWEST Northamptonshire. . . . 471 Essex...... 385 ENGLAND ...... 553 Leicestershire...... 473 Colchester...... 385 Manchester...... 556 Leicester ...... 473 Dedham Vale...... 386 Cheshire...... 568 Derbyshire...... 479 Saffron Walden...... 387 Chester ...... 568 Derby...... 479 Southend-on-Sea...... 388 Liverpool...... 572 Matlock Bath...... 482 Suffolk...... 389 Lancashire...... 581 Peak District...... 484 Bury St Edmunds...... 392 Blackpool...... 581 Buxton...... 488 Aldeburgh...... 395 Lancaster...... 583 Castleton & Around. . . . . 490 Southwold...... 396 Ribble Valley...... 583 Edale...... 492 Norfolk...... 397 Isle of Man...... 585 Bakewell & Around. . . . . 494 Norwich...... 397 Douglas...... 586 King’s Lynn & Around. . . . 405 Castletown & Around . . . . 587 YORKSHIRE. . . . . 497 BIRMINGHAM, THE North Yorkshire. . . . 501 THE LAKE DISTRICT MIDLANDS & THE York...... 502 & CUMBRIA. . . . . 588 Harrogate ...... 514 MARCHES...... 407 The Lake District. . . . 592 Scarborough...... 516 Birmingham...... 410 Windermere & Around . . . 592 Warwickshire...... 420 North York Moors Ambleside & Around. . . . 598 National Park ...... 522 Coventry ...... 421 Grasmere...... 602 ON THE ROAD

Hawkshead & Around. . . . 603 WALES. . . . . 655 Hay-on-Wye Coniston ...... 605 (Y Gelli Gandryll). . . . . 719 Elterwater & CARDIFF, ...... 721 Great Langdale...... 607 PEMBROKESHIRE & Rhayader Wasdale...... 608 SOUTH WALES. . . . 657 (Rhaeadr Gwy)...... 723 Cockermouth ...... 609 Cardiff (Caerdydd). . . . 659 Machynlleth ...... 726 Keswick...... 610 Southeast Wales. . . . . 675 Borrowdale...... 613 Chepstow SNOWDONIA & Buttermere...... 615 (Cas-gwent) ...... 677 NORTH WALES. . . . 728 Ullswater & Around. . . . 615 Blaenavon Snowdonia (Blaenafon)...... 679 Kendal ...... 617 National Park ...... 730 Swansea & the Gower. . . 680 Llanberis...... 731 Cumbrian Coast. . . . . 618 Swansea Betws-y-Coed...... 733 Northern & Eastern Abertawe)...... 680 Beddgelert...... 737 Cumbria...... 620 Gower Peninsula Carlisle...... 620 (Y Gŵyr)...... 685 ...... 739 Penrith...... 622 Carmarthenshire Dolgellau...... 742 (Sir Gaerfyrddin). . . . . 686 Harlech ...... 745 NEWCASTLE & Llandeilo & Around . . . . . 687 West of Snowdonia. . . . . 746 NORTHEAST Laugharne Caernarfon ...... 746 ENGLAND ...... 624 (Talacharn)...... 689 Llŷn Peninsula ...... 748 Pembrokeshire Porthmadog & Around. . . . 752 Newcastle-upon-Tyne. . . 628 (Sir Benfro)...... 690 Isle of Anglesey . . . . . 754 Tynemouth ...... 635 Tenby Hartlepool...... 635 (Dinbych-y-Pysgod). . . .. 692 Beaumaris (Biwmares). . . 754 County Durham . . . . . 636 Pembroke (Penfro) . . . . . 694 Holyhead (Caergybi). . . . 756 Durham ...... 636 St Davids (Tyddewi). . . .. 696 North Coast & Borders...... 758 Barnard Castle...... 639 Fishguard (Abergwaun). . .. 701 Llandudno...... 758 North Pennines...... 640 Newport (Trefdraeth) . . . . 702 Conwy ...... 761 Hadrian’s Wall...... 640 Llangollen ...... 764 Corbridge...... 644 HAY-ON-WYE & Bangor...... 767 Hexham...... 644 MID-WALES. . . . . 704 Haltwhistle & Around . . . . 645 Ceredigion...... 706 Northumberland Cardigan (Aberteifi). . . .. 706 National Park ...... 647 SCOTLAND. . . 769 Aberystwyth...... 707 Northumberland EDINBURGH...... 771 Coast ...... 648 Beacons National Park ...... 710 Alnwick...... 648 (Mynydd GLASGOW & Craster...... 650 Du) & Fforest Fawr. . . . . 710 SOUTHERN Embleton Bay...... 651 Brecon (Aberhonddu) SCOTLAND. . . . . 802 Farne Islands...... 651 & Around...... 713 Glasgow...... 803 Bamburgh...... 652 Crickhowell (Crughywel) ...... 715 Lanark & New Lanark. . . 821 Holy Island (Lindisfarne). . . 652 Abergavenny (Y Fenni). . . 717 Borders Region. . . . . 822 Berwick-upon-Tweed. . . . 653 Kelso...... 822 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Jedburgh...... 825 Loch Ness...... 900 Great Britain Today. . . 970 Ayrshire...... 828 Fort Augustus...... 903 History...... 972 Dumfries & Galloway. . . 830 The Cairngorms. . . . . 904 The British Table . . . . 988 Dumfries...... 830 Aviemore...... 904 Kirkcudbright...... 832 Kingussie & Architecture in Britain. . . 993 Stranraer...... 834 Newtonmore...... 907 The Arts in Britain. . . . 997 Royal Deeside...... 908 The British ARGYLL, CENTRAL Highland . . .. 909 Landscape...... 1008 Dunkeld & Birnam. . . . . 909 & NORTHEAST Sporting Britain. . . . . 1014 SCOTLAND. . . . . 836 Pitlochry ...... 910 Region...... 840 Central Western Highlands...... 913 Stirling...... 840 Glen Coe ...... 913 SURVIVAL The Trossachs...... 846 Fort William...... 915 GUIDE Argyll...... 850 Northeast Coast. . . . . 919 Loch Lomond & Around. . . 850 Tain...... 919 Kintyre...... 853 Directory A–Z. . . . . 1020 Dornoch...... 920 Isle of Arran...... 855 Transport...... 1029 Caithness...... 921 Isle of Islay ...... 857 Wick...... 922 Index...... 1038 Isle of Jura...... 860 John O’Groats...... 922 Map Legend...... 1054 Oban...... 861 Thurso & Scrabster. . . . . 923 ...... 863 North & Isle of ...... 867 Northwest Coast. . . 924 Fife...... 868 Durness...... 926 SPECIAL FEATURES St Andrews ...... 869 Ullapool...... 928 East Neuk ...... 874 ...... 933 Right Royal Britain . . . . 73 Lowland Perthshire. . . 877 Portree (Port Righ). . . . . 936 Tower of London 3D Illustration ...... 84 Perth...... 877 Outer Hebrides. . . . . 938 Victoria & Albert Dundee & Angus. . . . . 880 Lewis (Leodhais) ...... 940 Museum Dundee...... 880 Harris (Na Hearadh). . . . 942 3D Illustration ...... 96 Arbroath ...... 883 South Uist British Museum Aberdeenshire (Uibhist A Deas)...... 944 3D Illustration . . . . . 104 & Moray...... 884 Barra (Barraigh)...... 945 Literary Britain. . . .. 427 Aberdeen...... 884 Orkney...... 946 Hadrian’s Wall Moray...... 890 Kirkwall ...... 948 3D Illustration . . . . 642 Stromness...... 953 Breathtaking Britain...... 735 Hoy...... 955 CENTRAL & NORTHERN Royal Mile HIGHLANDS & Northern Islands ...... 956 3D Illustration . . . . . 774 ISLANDS...... 892 Shetland ...... 959 Rosslyn Chapel Inverness & Lerwick...... 961 3D Illustration . . . . . 790 the Great Glen . . . . . 893 The North Isles...... 966 Stirling Castle Inverness...... 893 3D Illustration . . . . 842 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 35

Itineraries

EDINBURGH #_ SCOTLAND

NORTHERN IRELAND

•# York North

Irish É Sea Sea É North

Sea IRELAND É

Stratford- upon-Avon ENGLAND Cambridge

•# •# WALES É Cotswolds

Chepstow É Oxford É •# •#

É LONDON CARDIFF É Avebury #_ •# #_

Bath•# •#StonehengeÉ •# •# BELGIUM Salisbury Winchester

FRANCE

2 WEEKS Best of Britain

Start with a full day in Britain’s greatest city, London, simply walking the streets to admire the world-famous sights: Buckingham Palace, Tower Bridge, Trafalgar Sq and more. Then head southwest to the grand cathedral cities of Winchester and Salisbury, across to the iconic of Stonehenge and its less well-known counterpart Ave- bury , then onwards to the beautiful historic city of Bath. Loop over to Chepstow for its impressive castle, and then continue to Cardiff, the Welsh capital. Retrace slightly, then cruise across the classic English countryside of the Cotswolds to reach the university city of Oxford. Not far away is Stratford-upon- Avon, for everything Shakespeare. Strike out north to Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh, for another great castle, before re- crossing the border to York for its glorious cathedral and historic city walls. Keep going south to reach Cambridge, another landmark university city. Then enjoy the last few days back in London, immersed in galleries, museums, luxury shops, street markets, West End shows, East End cafes – or whatever takes your fancy. 36 Isle of Skye É SCOTLAND

Fort William •#RBen

Nevis É Stirling •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Glasgow •# #_EDINBURGH Southern •#Melrose Uplands •#Jedburgh Hadrian's Wall É •# •# North NORTHERN Carlisle •#Durham Sea IRELAND

Lake District ÷# É •#York Irish Sea It Liverpool •# •#Manchester i nerar IRELAND Conwy•# Caernarfon •# •#Chester ÷# É Snowdonia Stratford- WALESupon-Avon ENGLAND

i es •#Warwick •# •#Cambridge NETHERLANDS Hay-on-Wye •# É •#Chipping Norton ÷# Cotswolds •#Oxford #_ Bath #_ LONDON CARDIFF •# •#Avebury •#

•# Canterbury Stonehenge É •# •# Winchester BELGIUM Salisbury ÷# •# FRANCE New Forest Brighton

5 WEEKS The Full Monty

After a day or two in London, head southeast to Canterbury, then along the coast to hip and happening Brighton. For a change of pace, divert to the New Forest, then up to historic Winchester and Salisbury with their awe-inspiring cathedrals. Next, reli- gion of a different kind: the ancient stone circles at Stonehenge and Avebury. Go west to Bath, with its grand Georgian architecture, Roman remains and famous spas, and then over the border to reach Wales. Stop off at the energetic little city of Cardiff, then head north through to the whaleback hills of the Brecon Beacons to reach the quirky book-mad town of Hay-on-Wye. Then it’s back to England, and east into the Cotswolds, with its rolling hills, quintes- sential rural scenery and chocolate-box towns like Chipping Norton. Not far away is the famous university town of Oxford, as well as the ancient town of Warwick, with its spectacular castle, and Shakespeare’s birthplace Stratford-upon-Avon. Continue north to Chester, for its famous city walls, diverting into North Wales for the grand castles at Conwy and Caernarfon, and the stunning mountains of Snowdonia. If time allows and the weather’s good, you can take a train to the top of the highest peak. Then ferry across the Mersey to Liverpool, with its famous musical heritage and revital- ised waterfront, or to Manchester for a taste of big-city life, followed by a total change of scenery in the tranquil mountains of the Lake District. To the north is the sturdy border town of Carlisle, and one of Britain’s most impressive Roman remains, Hadrian’s Wall. Hop across the border to Scotland, via the tranquil Southern Uplands, to reach good- time Glasgow. Then trek to Fort William (and maybe up , Britain’s highest mountain), from where it’s easy to reach the beautiful Isle of Skye. Then it’s time to head south again, via Stirling Castle to Edinburgh, and on through the historic abbey towns of Melrose and Jedburgh. Back in England, you can marvel at the castle and cathedral of Durham and the an- cient Viking capital of York, before taking in the old university city of Cambridge and enjoying the last few days of your trip in London. 37 Northwest Scotland

Isle of •#Torridon SkyeÉ Ben ÷# Cairngorms

É Nevis R SCOTLAND Isle of Mull É ÷#Loch Lomond North TRIP YOUR PLAN

Sea Glasgow•# É

Southern Uplands É Hadrian's Wall•# •#Newcastle-upon-Tyne NORTHERN •#Gateshead IRELAND ÷# Lake District ÷#

Yorkshire DaleÉ s Irish •#Leeds

Sea Manchester It Liverpool•# •# Isle of É ÷#Peak District i nerar Anglesey ÷# IRELAND Snowdonia É WALES •#Birmingham NETHERLANDS

É Brecon Beacons i es ÷# É Pembrokeshire É ENGLAND #_ •#Bristol Exmoor # CARDIFF ÷ BELGIUM Britain’s Wild Side Devon ÷# New Forest

Cornwall Jurassic Urban Odyssey É ÷# Coast Dartmoor FRANCE Land's End

4 3 WEEKS Britain’s Wild Side WEEKS Urban Odyssey

Start in the New Forest, then go west via Kick off in Bristol, a city with fierce pride Dorset’s fossil-ridden Jurassic Coast to and a rich historic legacy, then cross over to reach granite-topped Dartmoor. Stop off Cardiff, once a provincial backwater but at Land’s End, then traverse the stunning now the lively Welsh capital. Cornwall coast and rich farmland of Dev- Next stop is Birmingham, oozing to reach the gorse-clad hills of . on Exmoor transformation, with a renovated water- Cross into Wales to hike the Brecon Bea- side, energised museums and a space-age cons or stroll the beaches of Pembrokesh- shopping centre. Onwards to Leeds, where ire, then head north to explore Snowdonia rundown factories and warehouses have and the nearby Isle of Anglesey. Then been turned into loft apartments, ritzy it’s back to England, through the hills and boutiques and stylish department stores. moors of the Peak District and Yorkshire Shopping not your thing? No problem. Head Dales to reach the peaks and grand scenery for Newcastle-upon-Tyne and twin-city of the Lake District. Gateshead; both have given up on heavy industries in favour of art and architecture – Head north again, across (or along) the and are famous for to-the-hilt partying. Roman remains of Hadrian’s Wall, and over the border into Scotland. Saunter Still want more? It’s got to be Glasgow, through the delightful Southern Uplands, Scotland’s other great city, boasting fabu- then continue via Loch Lomond to the lous galleries and welcoming pubs. Then mountain wilderness of the Cairngorms. it’s south to Liverpool, which has rein- vented itself as a cultural hot spot, with The top of Britain is crowned by the a famous musical heritage and very lively famous highlands and islands of northwest current music scene. Finish your tour in Scotland, where jewels include peaks like Manchester, a long-time stage for artistic Ben Nevis and remote mountain ranges endeavour, with dramatic new architecture such as Torridon, while out to sea the and a rather well-known football club. lovely isles of Skye and Mull bask in the afternoon sun.

38 É

Ullapool •# Isle of cGlen Torridon Skye É •# Inverness •#Plockton Highland Fling North Mallaig •# Fort William Sea Edge of England Glenfinnan•# •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN RBen Nevis

Glen Coe c É Callander Loch Lomond & ÷# •# Stirling

the Trossachs •# EDINBURGH Glasgow É #_ •# •#Lindisfarne •#Bamburgh Castle SCOTLAND •#Dunstanburgh Castle

Northumberland NORTHERN É IRELAND It North

i nerar York ÷# Moors Irish Sea ENGLAND

i es É Wells-next- IRELAND the-Sea •# The Fens •# Norfolk The ÷# Broads •#Southwold Lavenham •# É •#Aldeburgh Sudbury •# •# Suffolk Colchester •#

2 2 WEEKS Highland Fling WEEKS Edge of England

Start in Edinburgh, where highlights Start in Colchester, then head out into include the renowned castle, as well as the the sleepy county of Suffolk, where quaint Royal Mile, the new parliament and the villages and market towns such as Sud- haunts of the Old Town. For a change of bury and Lavenham dot the landscape, pace, hop over to Glasgow for a day or two while along the coast are wildlife reserves, as well. Then head northeast to see Scot- shingly beaches, fishing ports such as land’s other great castle at Stirling. Next Aldeburgh, and the delightfully retro stop is Callander, a good base for exploring seaside resort of Southwold. the hills and lochs of the , part of Trossachs Things get even quieter in Norfolk, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National especially around the misty lakes and Park, for a first taste of Highland scenery. windmill-lined rivers of the Broads. For Continue north and the landscape be- beach strolls or historic country pubs, comes ever more impressive, culminating head for the coastal villages near Wells- in the grandeur of Glen Coe. Keen hill- next-the-Sea. walkers will pause for a day at Fort Wil- Across the border in Lincolnshire lies liam to trek to the top of Ben Nevis (plus the eerie, pan-flat landscape of the Fens, another day to recover!) before taking the now a haven for otters and bird life. ‘Road to the Isles’ past glorious Glenfin- nan to the fishing harbour of Mallaig. Continue into the heather-clad North York Moors where humpbacked hills roll Take the ferry to the , then Isle of Skye all the way to the coast to drop dramatical- head back to the mainland via the Skye ly into the choppy waters of the North Sea. Bridge to reach pretty Plockton and magnificent Glen Torridon. Onwards, Enjoy a blustery stroll on the wild coast via the outpost of Ullapool, takes you of Northumberland near the landmark into the British mainland’s furthest ­castles of Bamburgh and Dunstan- reaches, the remote mountain landscape burgh, then end your tour at the historic of Scotland’s far northwest, before looping island of Lindisfarne. south to finish your tour at Inverness. 39

Irish Sea Isle of Anglesey Llandudno •# •# Beaumaris Castle •# Conwy

É Llangollen IRELAND •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Harlech •# ÷# Snowdonia

É Machynlleth •# Aberystwyth •# ENGLAND WALES

É •#Hay-on-Wye Brecon St Davids •# •# Abergavenny Pembrokeshire •#

•#Wye Valley É •# •# Chepstow It Gower Peninsula

#_ i nerar •#Bristol

CARDIFF É Exmoor ÷# É Glastonbury •# É •# Shaftesbury Dorset i es Tintagel Devon

•# É ÷# Jurassic

Newquay •# Dartmoor Coast É •# St Ives •# Eden Welsh Wander Project Land's •# Cornwall Southwest Meander End

Southwest 1 Welsh Wander 2 WEEK WEEKS Meander

Start in Cardiff, with its fantastical ­castle, Start in Bristol, the capital of the West- gigantic rugby stadium, revitalised water- country, then saunter south to reach Glas- front and stunning Millennium Centre. tonbury – famous for its annual music Head west via the beautiful Gower Pen- festival and the best place to stock up on insula to reach the clear waters and sandy candles or crystals at any time of year. beaches of Pembrokeshire. Don’t miss West leads to heathery Exmoor. South the ancient cathedral at St Davids – Brit- leads to Dorset, where highlights include ain’s smallest city. Continue up the coast to picturesque Shaftesbury and the fossil- , then through ‘alternative’ Aberystwyth strewn Jurassic Coast. Machynlleth to reach Harlech and its ancient castle. Divert to the tranquil Isle Onwards into Devon, and there’s a of Anglesey and historic Beaumaris choice of coasts, as well as Dartmoor, Castle, then strike through the mountains the highest and wildest hills in southern of Snowdonia to reach Conwy (another Britain. stunning castle) and the seaside resort of Cross into Cornwall to explore the . Llandudno space-age biodomes of the Eden Project. Southwards takes you through Llan­ Nearby, but in another era entirely, is Tin- gollen, with its jolly steam trains and tagel Castle, the legendary birthplace of vertiginous aqueduct, then along the King Arthur. Depending on your tastes, England–Wales borderlands to book-mad you can hang-ten in surf-flavoured party- Hay-on-Wye. Loop inland to peaceful town Newquay, or browse the galleries at Brecon and foodie Abergavenny, then St Ives. saunter down the Wye Valley to finish at The natural finish to this wild-west tour the frontier town of and yet Chepstow – is Land’s End, where the British main- another amazing castle. land comes to a final full stop. Sink a drink in the First and Last Inn in Sennen, and promise yourself a return trip some day… ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

England TONY EVELING / GETTY IMAGES ©

M

°W l 3 # ^ \ # # ^ # ] \ # at l \ # s 3 # \ ÷ # # k o mere _ # ll y h oo niston f ic Moff l rlisle Ba yt r we # ] rtmouth Co # \ idgwater Gras

N Peeble y rdif

° hy Ca Da tw ackp Br Kesw rpoo Liverpoo # ^ S eter her # ] dfil # \ Ba

55 Bl ys Ca rk LE Ty Ex ÷ # Llandudn rk Live

moor tional es ck

Mert Pa Mot

# ] W 4° W ri 4° Ex WA Na oor rthmadog # no ] Lake District Aber l # ^ ÷ # ernarfon mf l Po rtm a # ^ to \ # LAND \ # tional Pa Ca Du # ^ lmar is Da # ^ # ] w r Na Br OT Ki n # ] an Channe lyhead anse y # ] le # ] Ay SC Ma ombe Is Ho s Ba # ] Plymouth rmarthen Sw of #\ # ] Cardig frac

Ca Glasgo

Il ugla 5°W k Bude # ] Do # \ a r l n ke # ] rth ow ro y \ # No 's Irish Se l wnpatric Channe °N °N ds # ] Stranrae e

55 54 N pbelt Pemb Do

° °N 53°N

52°N # ]

m 0

51 astl \

# 5 # ]

Channe

t

Newqua da °W e 6 St George Ca yc St Davi k #_ ll as ance he d Ba

Larn

nz

\ # og

ndal

W ° Belf 6 Pe Dr xfor Du _ # # ] C # ] We Armagh N # ] # ] blin of

D D

RN

d Du C y s W 7° ny le rr O C E A HE Scilly N T L A N T I Is en A RT De lk terfor IRELAN

IRELAN # ^

Ki NO W # 7° ^ O C E A O C E A # ] T L A N T I T L Wa

°N A

55

Bath

(p149) (p425) (p200) Oxford Stratford- (p62) Cambridge Lake District Lake eeing wild (p502) pending Spending S

etting some some Getting Exploring Exploring Catching a Catching Punting along the Punting Being a Jane Jane a Being Marvelling at Marvelling Falling in love in love Falling Wandering lonely Wandering

Canterbury a Europe’s one of in cathedrals greatest grave in grave upon-Avon hakespeare play or play Shakespeare visiting the Bard’s (p640) 9 engineering at Wall Hadrian’s 8 and ancient scenery 7 in river (p371) spires of of spires (p186) higher education higher education among the dreaming Cotswolds 6 with the impossibly with the impossibly the of villages quaint York 5 Viking sights and sights Viking Gothic the soaring in historic minster 4 walls, medieval idyllic (p592) 3 as a cloud in the a day in elegant in elegant a day (p320) 2 for character Austen entertaining capital, capital, entertaining London you’d planned in you’d (and England’s endlessly Britain’s) 1 time than more England Highlights Highlights

 60 #\ Berwick- 0100 km 0 e# upon-Tweed ° 050miles

( Kelso 3 \# G #\ °E 2

r 1°

°

e

Melrose E

E

1° e

n

Northumberland W National #] w

i Park c Alnwick h D ÷# ) Bergen (Norway), Gothenburg (Sweden) & Hadrian's Wall Ijmuiden (Netherlands) #æ #] Tynemouth #8 Newcastle- ^# upon-Tyne ]# Durham #\ Penrith NORTH Darlington #] \# Whitby North SEA York Moors National Park ÷# ÷# ]# Scarborough Yorkshire Dales National Park Lancaster #\ Forest of York Bowland #^#4

^# Leeds

Grimsby]# Manchester ^# ÷# Peak District ^# Sheffield National Park #\ Chester Buxton #] ]# Lincoln #] Chesterfield \#Skegness Boston #] #\ Derby ^# The Stoke- #] Nottingham Wash Holkam on-Trent The 4444 Fens ]# Norwich ]# Leicester ]# Shrewsbury \# Stamford King's ^# Lynn 44÷# 4 Hamburg ^# Birmingham The (Germany) Broads #\ Ludlow D #^#7 Cambridge 4 Worcester ]# #9\# Stratford-upon-Avon

]#Hereford ENGLAND Cheltenham The Cotswolds #] #] 5 Colchester Gloucester ]# # Forest of #] Dean #^#6 Oxford St Albans er Th Southend- Riv am #] e ##_1 on-Sea Bristol \# s London ^# Isle of ]# Windsor Thanet Ostend ##]2 \# Newbury Canterbury #10^# Bath South Downs \# Dover #]Veurne National ]# ^# Salisbury Winchester ÷#Park #\ Calais \# Rye Strait of New Forest Worthing Brighton Dover National Park ^# ^# \# St-Omer Bournemouth ÷# ^# ^# Eastbourne #\

^# Portsmouth 0 Boulogne-

°

( sur-Mer

Lyme Greenwich #] English Bay FRANCE Lens \# Weymouth 1°

1° Channel

E

W

W Arras #\ 2°

)

Mers-les- \# Abbeville Bains #\

Dieppe #] #\ Amiens ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Wales JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES © r

ry #\ 3 ) h D th # l #\ ow te y #] t y m n #] 710 or #\ ha nmou (p venn Hay- ford Ches wp erleon GLAN ex y Skenfrit Abbe Chepst ga #] re Tinter Mo rn Ca s Shrewsbu Ne er Wr

EN

Liverpoo ve #\

tuar

e He n W #] 3° #] Se Ab Knighton #\ l # ^

De Es y Well #\ vo

h #\ Pat s ymbo

ke a

y #\

t D ), a book-lover’s a book-lover’s ), a's na f

lywell f

f y W k Br

O owel #\ 8 in y #\ #\ lly tain #\ #\ #] # l #\ s ae rr Caernarfon Castle Caernarfon #\

Fl ' e Ho k kh 719

r 1 Bl h #_ Blac # #\ n ye ic y w tuar #\ De Ba (p ool ig angollen d s Moun ttoc Cr Cardif n th Es Ba Ll #] -W Brecon Beacons Beacons Brecon er ow

verpoo y #\ il nb l most the maybe ), hp thin eeing #]

G ga Caerphi Llandrindod Li #\ ad wt on Wandering through Wandering S Walking in the mountains, in the mountains, Walking Bu Well De S #\ Ru #\ an #] s #\ 746 #\ ntypridd y-on r #\ Ll Ne Wels Corwen Montgomery WY 8 on-Wye heaven 9 in the gastropubs then eating the of 7 (p fortresses Wales’ of impressive #\ Rhay #\ Po #\ Brec hy dfil Ha la ed banu #\ Rhyl 58 rt PO d Ty #] Li Ba ot Co h A4 /· ty A5 s Bridgend #\ st #\ s y- /· lb erdare Me u

wr #\ s- Llanidloes rw 4 94 on y on Ta Ab 0 Well h s o A4 A4 a /· 9 an /· an #\ # ec A4 d ge M4 u /· Colwyn Ba s #] l Ll /· Ll vil' id Betw Br #\ ss Beac Port R #\ aw Neat s on #\ doni nfor De Machynllet #\ Br 5 6 tain #] Dolgella # #\ # #] Pa ) #\ le ar l #\ y ) g St Davids ow #] ma Blaena Ffestiniog rthc ri #\ eg

pe GION very

#\ l

nw E n-y- Cambrian W Llandudn 4°

o 730 Moun ntarddulais Tr 87 Sn 758 Po Cu Black Mountain Am DI

Ca d do # ^

Co 5

i #\ A4 Pe #\ #\ /· #\ (p W e l 4° Mumb Po a n #] l (p an A5 RE #\ a

/· h #\ #\ 5

#\

rthmadog

Ll #\ ro #

#\ R deilo

r #\ #\

# h ^ h #\ t nne ) #\

a CE

s #\

n #\

n P #] Po ae h rt

h t an

er ENSHIR ch

s anse Bristo ), with its beautiful beautiful with its ), 2 a er Cha Ll #] do ec #

wy

or Bo lw yt

o TH rl

085m h #\ bourne

gelert C Buying fish and chips Buying fish and chips Enjoying tiny tiny Enjoying Climbing Wales’ highest highest Wales’ Climbing rmouth Gowe beris e Ab Ty 7

Sw

ir (1 ow ng #] e # n 696 #\ et tl tw

Peninsul Am

Ha

AR dd

an o Ba en Kidwelly ci i #\

Fa

#\

y Lampet 5 or enjoying Snowdon, peak, in exercise gentle more Snowdonia 6 along the pier in and strolling Llandudno 4 (p and idyllic setting cathedral

g #] #\ Sn Ba Ll n ys i

soch ic

Beaumari Be th d #\ RM

New Quay ly

y Llanelli er e

Cr #\ r

87

A5 e li

en Ba Ba an CA a Newcas Em /· C Ab ) rfon A4 /· y #\ Aber Laugharn #\ th #\ ), he Rhossili Cardigan ll th ar Ba nsul Carmar 685 y ro Llŷn Caernarfon ni E 659 y Pw #] y r (p Caerna Cardig t head 0 Pe (p Am nd Carm #] ly Ba A4 or /· Tenb #\ i la rbie s #\ - m Ho Bardse Is ll no #\ Tintern Abbey Tintern esel t iles KESHIR lyhead 0k Hi Pwll w Newp

aich

Pr #\ es

erth Ma Cardiff

l #\ #\ y- re

e 0m RO Ho

Br rb

nn

a d

Ca h ke

#\ MB C Na

ordw

0 s

'

e ro

e #\

#\ g

r A4

PE

o C

/· e

°W 5 Wye ) in the beautiful

G

e t verf I S mb H a N Exploring Exploring Gower Peninsula Peninsula Gower Angl T Catching some breaks or breaks some Catching Marvelling at the picture- Marvelling

Ha er #\ Pe 678 Fishguar #\ N ) e ) 01 02 Solv (p Valley 3 ruins of perfect just enjoying the views along views the enjoying just the shopping arcades and nightlife shopping arcades 2 1 castle, with its capital, Welsh the Wales Highlights Wales ; S E A West

#\

D y D #\

I R I S

hwat land

land N

# le O C E A

°N e

Ba T L A

es #\ 4

2° St Davids Rosslar (Ire # Highlights (Ire Dun Laoghair Dublin Da 

5 A

53 St Brides

Fr 656 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Scotland JORDANPHOTO /GETTYIMAGES © y nd #] h

y N

ra N inset)

am

D ° tt #\ a rg

Ba

° 56 Shetla

d 57 se

Ra (see

#\ 2°

W #\ er ro #\ o Hexh D k- # ^ ed rth Se erbu ls nt rd GLAN oath ews #] 2 A1 No as Orkney Orkney y we Ke en /· rwic Highland A9 Mo Bo Abbeys oats /· #\ -T ay EN ee h Fr ll #\ Peterhea y av Arbr 4 Andr Be #\ lisle ay # #\ ld wa gh 6 8 O'Gr St Sand #\ Ed

e 58°N und upon rk A9 ca A9 /· #\ /· Ben Nevis Nevis Ben Car South Ronaldsa r D ck os Ki

Aberdeen

inburg dbur land (p909)

e # ^ #\ W ° John 3 Stoneh # ^ s Wi lk Kirk Je al Ed #\ d #\ y Melr Fa y #] aema el land y #\ n 1 #\ #_ # s h #\ in stra #\ gi Br m nk mfries lmsd s Ho #\ Peeble El Admiring the magnificent the magnificent Admiring Discovering 5000-year- Discovering Climbing # ^ #\ h #\ e Ma e A9 We #\ tain s Du tlochr s Du He #\ /· y #\ Pert at dbright r h #\ Pi 9 h 6 #] A9 8 and lochs of forests Perthshire 9 on old neolithic sites (p946) 7 in point the highest (p917), Britain 4

# h mnes therwell t tain /· #\ A9 cu /· M7

M8 Ni #\ Cairngor

Moun #\ ro /· Firt /·

#\ Golspi Thurso Firt ermlin

ampian Mora rk bste Moff W 4° Dornoc Mo Solway Lanark re #\ St # ^ ff ling nf #\ A9 A9 e Gr Ki ra #\ pe #] Moun #\ 8 /· /· kney ie ir Invernes # #\ #\ ghland in Du Sc re Ho rk Cr s #] Or iemo St en ty 2 Ta Hi #\ # ^ # vi Perthshire Pa a r Av

ev ngussi #\ r an Ben oway ss 2 ch ge 5 w st ll g ll Glen Coe Glen Coe Ki n Ne 6 Bl R rrick R Cuillin A8 #] id Ay A8 ch /· Ne Lo #] /· A8 wa #\ /· Ga #\ Bona mond Assynt

#]

Br 2 n Lo Me Fore

s

Bein Dear Irish Se

W 5° asgo R

ng Lo A8 Ben W r 5° /· Kinlochl Fort stus R k Di Gl 7 #\ ic ae # R gu rnes 3 t t s # Border Abbeys Abbeys Border #\ 5 l #\ #\ #] #] # n GYLL nr 90 er an Au Du #\ mbarto Lochalsh ol m e A8 ay /· st ra akin ntai AR h R rtpatr

°N Kilmarnock Ob T po of ar Arra Du Si le Ki St llia Co #\ 16

le y

59 Po rthwes #] (p935) e Ky A8 AS of /· e Ulla #\ Wi Capturing the brooding the brooding Capturing Experiencing the romantic the romantic Experiencing Uncovering scenic beauty beauty scenic Uncovering g en Ky Five ad #\ wa Inver #\ No

#] #\

e le LF

ntyr N Gl he #\ C °W 6 e n no The Minc 5 at history and tragic (p913) 6 Skye’s splendour of Hills 4 the ruins of (p822) st #\ d Larn

5° Ki I ll Fort of of ghlands Coas BE ra rtre

5 #\ ca Mallai or N ow le le km Ju #\ Hi of Mu ye - lly #_ Is Po Stor Is Gairloch 6 #\ y t # le of aignur Sk lay oadf #] 00 E A s Ba of m Is s le Lochgilp Is Cr #\ #\ iles le e Is Br C wi D Ru L A N T L A N T rber Is #\ O T 0m Ta AN HERN

an #\

Campbelt

A

of Le eòdhais) °W 7 Tobermor (p771), one (p771), is le eg EL northwest northwest of RT (L (p924) Bowmor rr (p803) Is le ) nv IR Cuillin Hill cotland’s cotland’s Lochmaddy y Is Ha #\ as NO k Du

N N m rr st tlar iles ic

9° a 0° 0k st

5 Fe 6

De uth)

rw

0m st na 1° W Glasgow Un Ulst Ta # ^

Edinburgh Edinburgh a

Le Ui

ra #] #\

#\ W Yell 8° #] South Ui h ibhist A De s e Toft nc D Exploring S Exploring Barr rt

etting permanent Getting Enjoying Victorian architec Victorian Enjoying

R (U

Th s W ll 8° arraigh)

Bu No

a

ibhist A AN Deep 2° W along the jawdrop Highlands coast locals in locals 3 2 and friendly nightlife great ture, of the world’s most fascinating fascinating most world’s the of cities 1 capital, Scotland Highlights land (B Hi

04 02 01 05

°N (U

EL

Rona

Shet 59 #

St Kild e Highlights IR

 770 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Belinda Dixon Bath & Southwest England; Cambridge & East Anglia Belinda made a gleeful bolt for the sunny southwest for her post-grad, having been drawn there by the palm trees on campus. Like the best Westcountry limpets, she’s proved hard to shift since and now writes and broadcasts in the region. Research highlights for this latest adventure included fossil hunting on the Jurassic Coast, white-water kay- aking on Dartmoor, pony spotting on Exmoor, ‘researching’ cider in Dorset and sampling afternoon tea in Lyme. Read more about Belinda at: lonelyplanet.com/members/belindadixon Peter Dragicevich Oxford, Cotswolds & Around; Cardiff, Pembrokeshire & South Wales Wales has held a fascination for Peter ever since he was sent to write about Welsh castles for one of his first ever newspaper travel features. Since then he’s co-authored dozens of Lonely Planet titles, including the Wales guidebook. And while his name may not be very Welsh, it does at least have over half a dragon in it.

Damian Harper London Born off the Strand within earshot of Bow Bells (favourable wind permit- ting), Damian grew up in Notting Hill way before it was discovered by Hollywood. A onetime Shakespeare and Company bookseller and radio presenter, Damian has been authoring guidebooks for Lonely Planet since the late 1990s. He lives in South London with his wife and two kids, frequently returning to China (his second home).

Anna Kaminski Hay-on-Wye & Mid-Wales; Snowdonia & North Wales No stranger to Wales, Anna spent this research trip gleefully rediscovering childhood highlights: castles, narrow-gauge railways, the beaches of North Wales and the many hiking paths of Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons. In spite of (or perhaps because of) nearly bringing a rockslide down on herself on Mt Snowdon and her car breaking down for the first time ever, it has been Anna’s most memorable venture into Cymru’s remotest parts. Anna has contributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet titles.

Catherine Le Nevez Birmingham, the Midlands & the Marches; Newcastle & Northeast England Cath- erine first roadtripped around Great Britain aged four and she’s been roadtrip- ping here at every opportunity since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in editing and publishing along the way. She’s also written dozens of Lonely Planet guide- books and newspaper, magazine and online articles covering the UK, Europe and beyond. Roaming castle ruins and corridors of stately homes were highlights of researching this book, as was discovering idyllic countryside pubs.

Andy Symington Glasgow & Southern Scotland; Central & Northern Highlands & Islands Andy’s Scottish forebears make their presence felt in a love of malt, a debatable ginger colour to his facial hair and a love of wild places. From childhood treks up the M1 he graduated to making dubious roadtrips around the firths in a disintegrating Mini Metro and thence to peddling whisky in darkest Leith. While living there, he travelled widely around the country in search of the perfect dram, and, now resi- dent in Spain, continues to visit very regularly. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Neil Wilson Coordinating Author; Yorkshire; Edinburgh; Argyll, Central & Northeast Scotland Neil was born in Scotland and, save for a few years spent abroad, has lived there most of his life. A lifelong enthusiasm for the great outdoors has inspired hiking, biking and sailing expeditions to every corner of Britain. Researching this edition took him from the country’s most westerly point at Ardnamurchan Lighthouse to its most easterly at Fraserburgh, and to every corner of Yorkshire. Neil has been a full-time author since 1988 and has written around 65 guidebooks for various publishers, including Lonely Planet’s Scotland and Scotland’s Highlands & Islands.

Oliver Berry Bath & Southwest England; The Lake District & Cumbria A professional writer and photographer based in Cornwall and Bristol, Oliver likes nothing better than exploring his local beaches and clifftops in the name of research. For this book he covered his home county, and also ventured across the Tamar to write the sections on Somerset, Bristol, Bath and Cumbria. Research highlights included kayaking down the Helford River and watching the sunset from the top of . You can see his latest work at www.oliverberry.com.

Fionn Davenport Manchester, Liverpool & Northwest England As a Dubliner, Fionn feels an affinity with the Northwest. Maybe it’s his lifelong support of Liverpool Football Club, or his longtime love of The Smiths, but a visit to Liverpool or Manchester is always that little bit special. Over the years and various editions of this guide he’s had plenty of occasion to visit and get to know the region better, exploring Chester and the Wirral, and tramping through Lancaster and into the north Lancashire hills.

Marc Di Duca Canterbury & Southeast England Originally from Darlington, County Durham, Marc has been a northerner-gone-south since 2000 and has covered his adopted corner of weald and down for the past three editions of Lonely Planet’s England and Great Britain. A full-time travel author for a decade, Marc has updated and written Lonely Planet guides to Ukraine, Russia, the Trans-Siberian Railway, Poland, Austria and Germany, though he can usually be found in Sandwich, Kent, where he lives with wife Tanya and their two sons. Read more about Marc at: lonelyplanet.com/members/madidu

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 11th edition – April 2015 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 472 5 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’