ASSETS

TRAVEL THE INDIAN EXPRESS DUNCAN MADDEN found himself in with just 24 hours to drink it all in. Here, he finds a hectic city of astonishing diversity

NE OF THE few pleasures of flying long- and pristine bouquets of flowers. Here they haul is the potential to experience a new practise the ancient Indian tradition of atithi Ocity for the first time – albeit fleetingly. devo bhava – guest is god. And so it was on a trip to Bhutan, which I Our room is no less indulgent. A hybrid of wrote about recently in this magazine, that warm, soft refinery complemented by the latest I found myself on a 24-hour stopover in New gadgetry, all dressed in a sea of soft reds and Delhi. In a fit of excitement – India’s a bucket- golds. It feels like a Maharajah’s boudoir. We list destination – I checked into one of the lounge, scoff the free fruit and chocolates and country’s top hotels, the Leela Palace. then head to India’s only heated rooftop pool. Fuelled by friends’ stories of India’s unique The views are breathtaking but so is the air, mania, of its overwhelming sights and sounds, thick with smog from the traffic below. and the stark differences of its major cities to On the recommendation of the concierge anywhere else on earth, my wife and I landed and in search of ‘real India’, we head to the fresh with excitement for the wonders ahead. Dilli Haat Market. Open air and overflowing Even the journey from the airport to the with traditional crafts, spices and colours, Leela’s plush hallways was an eye-opener. it’s a fun introduction if a little touristy. We We navigate the insanity of eight-lane city beg our driver (provided by Leela) to take us traffic, weaving between flying rubbish, cars somewhere a little more authentic and end up reversing the wrong way down the motorway in the less salubrious Khan Market. and roadsides peppered with men of every ilk A seemingly ramshackle collection of pissing like racehorses against the barriers. electrical stores, boutiques, curios and bars, We’d heard about this before, of course, but it immediately feels more ‘real’, and more still cackle at the shock of experiencing it. welcoming. New Delhi life bustles all around Things soon change as we approach the us – women shop in bright colourful saris, Leela. Here, New Delhi’s avenues are wide and men hurry to and from the office sweltering colonial. Huge embassies fronted by security in grey and black suits. The soundtrack is car guards and immaculate lawns pass by as we horns and the sizzle of food stalls serving up head into the neighbourhood all manner of sweet and savoury treats. – a curated vision of order and power. We wander the shops and sights, drinking We waft under vast sculpted elephants, in as much as we can, and as the light fades through glass doors and into the Leela. find our driver waiting patiently. The journey Luxurious barely describes the chandelier- back to the hotel and its amazing spa delivers lit, gold-detailed and absolutely immense one more treat as we pass the awesome lobby-come-lounge-come-palace. Staff glide Presidential Palace. Decorated to celebrate around us as we’re quietly but warmly greeted. , it’s contoured with uniform Escorted straight to our room, we pass endless strings of fairy lights. The effect is show rows of gold statues, near-priceless artworks stopping – even the fountains glow. If I’m honest, the unabashed finery of New Delhi took me by surprise, and the contrast to the poverty all around it even more so. The Leela is as sumptuous a hotel as I’ve stayed in, Here, they practise but I felt undiluted guilt when children in rags the ancient Indian begged for coins as soon as we left. I’d been in India 24 hours and left tantalised, desperate tradition of ‘atithi devo to know more. How often do you get to say that about a long-haul stopover? ■ bhava’ – guest is god For more info: 0800 026 1111; theleela.com

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