COWBRIDGE

Tuesday Tipplers from southern Not !

Anna & John Andrew June 2018

Prompted by a visit to the Seville area in November 2017.

Visited Jerez where is made.

Visited the Osborne Bodegas where sherry is made and tasted a variety of .

Imagined that we could do a sherry plus 3 wines from Jerez but only sherry made there.

So we have expanded to Southern Spain.

But even that was a problem. Spanish dominated by Rioja. Show on map.

Wines chosen from Jerez, La Mancha, Yecla and . Show on map.

We have not tasted any of them so we are going on the same journey as you!

To go with the wines we have some bread, Spanish cheese and chorizo.

Let’s start with sherry.

Much more complex and interesting than I thought.

So before we give you anything to taste you will have to bear with me for a few minutes while I tell you something about sherry.

Hopefully it will be as new and interesting to many of you as it was to me.

What many people think of when sherry is mentioned. Types of sherry

Dry (less than 5 g/l residual sugar) Fino (Biological ageing. 15-18% normally 15%) Amontillado (Biological then oxidative ageing. 16-22% ) Oloroso (Oxidative ageing. 17-22% )

Sweet (more than 5 g/l residual sugar) Pale cream (Fino blended with sweet wine 15-22% 45-115g/l sugar) Medium dry (Dry blended with sweet 15-22% 5-45g/l sugar) Medium sweet (Dry blended with sweet 15-22% 45-115g/l sugar) Cream (Oloroso blended with sweet wine 15-22% 115-140g/l sugar)

Granny sales of sweet sherries falling. Hipster sales of dry sherries increasing. How is sherry produced? Grape Varieties The Regulations of the Consejo Regulador indicate the following varieties of vine as being suitable for the production of Sherry: Pedro Ximénez Moscatel All three are white-grape varieties.

Rootstocks The three varieties mentioned above, traditionally used throughout the Jerez Region, belong to the vinifera species, which gives grapes of the quality required to produce Sherry. The most widely favoured variety is that of the Palomino grape, together with others such as Pedro Ximénez, Mantuo, Albillo, Cañocazo, Perruno, Moscatel, etc... all of which were grown on their won rootstock. In the years 1894, however, destructive insect known as phylloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifolii) made its first appearance in Jerez and in many other parts of the world, the worst scourge in the history of which destroyed the vast majority of European by attacking the roots of the vine. The only possible solution was to plant American varieties of rootstock with phylloxera-resistant roots and then graft onto them the vines traditionally grown in the area. In such a way that the plant, from that period onwards, is always made up of a subterranean section (American rootstock) and an above- ground section, or vine stock, which produces the fruit. Both parts are joined at what is known as the graft union point.

Palomino Palomino is the most traditional of all varieties and has been used here for centuries. Nowadays it is the undisputable leader within the Jerez Region and, given its compatibility with the albariza soil, local climate and the techniques developed by vine growers; it may rightly be considered a key element in the production of our unique sherry wines. The Palomino grape is known by several names, the most common being "Listán". It has an open apex and large, orbicular, dark-green leaves with a closed V-shaped petiolar sinus. The underside of the leaf is downy in texture. The shoots are semi-trailing. Grape bunches are generally long and cylindrical in shape with a medium to high density of spherical, medium sized, thin-skinned berries which are yellowish green in colour. The grapes are juicy, fragile, sweet and flavourful with colourless juice. The buds of the sub-variety Palomino Fino - the most commonly used throughout the region - sprout during the last fortnight in March and ripen in early September. Yields are in the order of 80 hectolitres per hectare, registering around 11 degrees Baumé and low acidity. It is well adapted to the region, being highly resistant to a wide variety of parasites when cultivated correctly. The excellent quality of its grapes and its responsiveness in the make it the favourite among wine-makers and vine- growers alike. Of much lesser importance is the sub-variety "Palomino de Jerez" which generally produces smaller yields with slightly higher levels of sugar and acidity.

The Base Wine

Dry from the Palomino grape.

Pale, delicate, slightly fruity

Low in acidity

Alcoholic content 11 to 12%

The Base Wine Towards the end of the Autumn the new wine of the year - known as "base wine" - is ready for the lees which have settled at the bottom of the tank to be separated and removed. In this way a completely dry white wine is obtained which is pale, delicate, slightly fruity and low in acidity which will constitute the base for the later production of Sherry Wines.

This is a young wine which during the months of January through to March is consumed in large quantities in the country inns and bars all over the Jerez Region and which is referred to simply as "must", or grape juice, despite the fact that its alcoholic content is of between 11 and 12% depending upon the conditions of the .

Once the lees have been removed one can observe a very special characteristic of the base wine: during the decanting process a film of yeast begins to form on the surface of the wine, a type of cream which gradually expands until it completely covers the whole surface: this is known as the flor.

The Veil of Flor The flor del vino is unquestionably the most extraordinary natural element of all those which combine to produce the uniquely characteristic Sherry Wines. If fermentative yeasts disappear as sugars are transformed into alcohol, then in the Jerez Region there is another strain of indigenous yeasts which carry on their activity even when all the fermentable sugars present in the must have been exhausted. Over the centuries, and undoubtedly as a consequence of natural selection, several strains of yeast have appeared which have learnt to feed off the alcohol created during fermentation in order to stay alive.

As levels of alcohol in the new wine each their limit, these unusual yeasts form upon the free surface of the wine inside the butt where, with the help of oxygen from the air, they survive by metabolising part of the alcohol and other components contained in the wine.

The gradual reproduction of these micro-organisms produces a film-like culture of yeasts which covers the whole surface of the wine, in such a way as to prevent direct contact the air. The wine is thus totally protected from oxidation, totally covered by a natural layer of yeast.

This film is not inert, but is in constant interaction with the wine. The living organisms which make up the flor, the yeasts, permanently consume specific components found in the wine, especially alcohol but also any remains of non-transformed sugar, glycerine, oxygen dissolved in the wine, etc... They also give rise to another series of components, most prominent amongst which are the acetaldehydes. In general terms, by their metabolic action they bring about significant changes in the components contained in the wine and therefore in its final organoleptic characteristics. As with all living organisms, the yeasts responsible for the formation of the film of flor require a series of environmental conditions for their development. Temperature and humidity levels are of special importance: so much so that the very name of flor (flower) makes reference to the fact that the film of yeast appears to flourish, acquiring a particularly vigorous aspect in Spring and Autumn, times of the year which coincide with ideal environmental conditions of temperature and humidity. The flor also requires access to oxygen in order to live. For this reason neither the tanks in which it first appears, nor the butts in which it develops, can be hermetically sealed as adequate air circulation must be ensured in the bodega at all times. Finally, the existence of flor in the wine is only possible within a particular range of alcoholic strengths, which has very interesting consequences when the moment arrives for the cellar- master to decide which type of sherry wine he wishes to produce.

The veil of flor, a key indication of biologically-aged Sherry Wines. The layer of flor covers the surface of the wine, preventing oxidation. The Vinification of Sweet Sherry Wines The vinification of those varieties destined for the production of sweet sherries is quite different from what we have seen so far regarding dry sherries. Pedro Ximénez wines are produced exclusively from over-ripe grapes of the same name which are picked once they have attained a high concentration of sugar on the vine, in excess of 16 degrees Baumé (around 300 grams of sugar per litre of must). Once harvested the grapes are spread out on paseras, special sites set aside for drying out the fruit in the sun, a process known as "soleo", or sunning. The grapes lose a great deal of water during the sunning process, also known as pasificación (from the Spanish word for raisin: pasa), and consequently increase their sugar content (450-500 grams per litre of must). In parallel to this increase in sugar, other changes take place in the chemical, physical and sensory features of the dried, "raisined" grape: heightened colour, density, viscosity, stickiness and the emergence of aromas and flavours characteristic of Pedro Ximénez grapes and wines.

The practice of soleo consists in exposing the harvested bunches of grapes to the sun on mats of various shapes and materials, the most traditional being round redores, esparto grass mats. The grapes are carefully spread out by hand and turned over once a day to ensure that all the berries receive an equal amount of sunlight. During this operation, workers also remove unhealthy bunches - a practice known as espurgado (literally, purging or sanitising). In areas relatively close to the sea, the grapes are covered at night to prevent their being dampened by the typically heavy September dews. After several days, normally 7 to 15 depending on weather conditions (temperature and relative humidity), once the grapes are judged to have reached the optimal condition, they are collected and transported to the wine press for the next stage in the process, the extraction of must. Given that the grapes are now dehydrated, is rather more difficult than for newly picked grapes. As a rule, vertical presses are used and, to help in extracting the must - which is very dense and viscous owing to the high content of sugars and other substances in it - the grapes tend to be piled up in layers separated by the mats on which they were sunned. The texture of the esparto grass matting facilitates the drainage of must from the presses.

Once they reach the collection tanks, the musts are then submitted to a series of different processes according to their particular characteristics. Their high concentration of sugar affects spontaneous fermentation, which gets underway slowly. In order to stabilise fermentative microbiological activity in the musts, wine spirit is added to levels not far short of 10 degrees of alcohol. Thus stabilised the wine is left to settle during the autumn and winter months, after which the new wine is racked to remove any lees and further fortified up to 15 to 17 degrees of alcohol. The wine is then left to age in American casks, using the traditional añada and systems. Moscatel wines are made exclusively from grapes of the Moscatel de Alejandría variety, which are harvested when very ripe. Moscatel grapes can also be sunned to obtain moscateles pasas. This is done in much the same way as for Pedro Ximénez though, mainly because Moscatel de Alejandría grapes are bigger, sunning dries them out less. Furthermore, since most Moscatel vines are found in sandy soil near the sea, the sunning process often takes place on paseras of sand.

In soleo, or sunning, bunches of Pedro Ximénez grapes are carefully spread out on esparto gras mats for 'raising'. Classification

Fortification

Biological ageing

Oxidative ageing

Wine Classification Towards the end of December the new wines have already undergone the off process, that is to say that they have been separated from solids after fermentation and are ready for the first classification. Depending upon a variety of different factors, such as the particular conditions of the harvest, the origin of the grape, the pressure applied at the time of obtaining the juice from the grape, the different batches of base wine exhibit different organoleptic and even analytic characteristics. The tasters will sample each batch of new wine and classify it into two groups: Those wines with a particular paleness and finesse, generally from must obtained without applying any pressure, or very light pressure, which will later be aged as finos or manzanillas, their tanks are marked with a single vertical slash (/) known as a palo. Those batches which present signs of greater structure, or gordura, are earmarked from the very start for the production of oloroso sherry, and their tanks marked with the corresponding circle symbol. The decisions made by the tasters are often based upon laboratory analyses and, to a great extent, are conditioned by the way in which the harvest, must extraction and fermentation have been performed.

Why fortify the wines Perhaps one of the best known characteristics of Sherry is that it is a , one to which a certain amount of wine alcohol has been added in order to slightly raise its final alcoholic content.

This practice originated centuries ago in the need to stabilise wines which were to be consumed in distant markets and thus needed to be "protected" during their long overseas voyages. Nowadays the practice has been maintained but for very different reasons.

The level of alcohol in the base wines is increased by mixing wine and alcohol ("half and half") until the correct alcoholic strength is acquired. After fermentation base wine naturally reaches an alcoholic strength of between 11 and 12.5 percent by volume.

Those wines classified for ageing as finos are fortified until they reach a total alcoholic content of 15 per cent by volume. Those wines classified to undergo ageing as olorosos are fortified in such a way as to reach an alcoholic content of at least 17%.

What is the aim of fortification? Fortification is a technique used by the bodeguero in order to decide upon the type of ageing to which each wine will be submitted. Depending upon its final alcoholic strength, the wine will develop inside the cask according to one of the two ageing systems used to produce sherry. By bringing the alcoholic strength of the wine up to 15% per cent by volume we are providing an alcoholic strength sufficient to allow the yeast cells to form the flor, but at the same time intolerable for other micro-organisms to develop in the wine. In short, we are selecting the type of biological activity which we wish the wine to undergo, which is that developed by the yeast responsible for the film of flor. The flor will then cover the surface of the wine and thus prevent its oxidation, facilitating a whole series of changes to its composition: a process known as BIOLOGICAL AGEING

With an alcoholic strength of over 17 per cent by volume, biological activity becomes impossible to sustain. Not even the yeast cells in the flor, which are especially resistant to alcohol, are able to survive under such conditions. The wine is therefore destined to lose its film of flor and along with it the protection which it provided against contact with oxygen. Once in direct contact with air the wine begins to undergo a slow but inexorable process of oxidation, easily appreciated by the gradual darkening in the colour of the wine: this is OXIDATIVE AGEING

Both types of ageing produce different types of sherry wine, this therefore being one of the key factors when it comes to understanding the immense diversity of Sherry Wine.

Sobretablas and the Second Classification After fortification, the young wines are ready to leave the tanks and carry on their way to the wooden butts which will be their only home until the time for bottling arrives. If the wines are classified for oxidative ageing then the future olorosos are clearly identified as such from the very first day, this not being the case with those wines classified for ageing under the film of flor. The olorosos, which in the first classification were considered by the tasters to possess a defined structure and suitable organoleptic characteristics, once fortified then take their place in the ageing systems. Nevertheless, it is not unusual for wines from the same harvest which have been classified as olorosos to then all be stored together in what is known as an añada, from where quantities will be transferred to the oloroso criaderas during the year in an operation known as a trasiego. This intermediate stage between the first classification and final entrance into the ageing system is absolutely essential in the case wines fortified to 15 per cent by volume - those in which the film of flor is to be preserved - and at this stage of the process receives the name of sobretablas. The sobretablas stage is of enormous importance given that during the first few months of life the wine will gradually develop and acquire the distinguishing features that will earmark it as suitable for a specific final wine type. It must be remembered that the first classification was carried out by the tasters when the wine was but a few weeks old. After a period which can oscillate between six months and a year, the tasters once again analyse each of the butts in order to carry out the second classification. In this case not only is the job a much more time- consuming process (the wine is now contained in 500 litre butts instead of 50,000 litre tanks), but the range of options open to the tasters is also a much wider one.

Those butts in which the flor is still present and flourishing after these first few months, actively protecting the enclosed wine from oxidation and subtly transforming its initial characteristics, are marked with the classic palma symbol chalked on the cask to indicate the degree of fineness which the wine has acquired. These are wines clearly destined for ageing below the film of flor, in which the initial paleness of the wine has been maintained or even enhanced and which are now beginning to exhibit the characteristic sharpness endowed by the flor. On certain occasions some of the butts in which the flor still remains are marked with the classic "palo cortado" symbol by which the cellar-master indicates that they are wines which, despite their fineness and apparent suitability for biological ageing, are going to be "re-directed" by means of oxidative ageing. These are very special wines, classified as such according to the particular criteria of each sherry firm and which, after a period of sobretablas under the film of flor, are then further fortified to bring their alcoholic strength up to 17 per cent by volume in order to initiate the second stage of what will be their definitive ageing process, oxidative in character.

In other cases once the sobretablas stage has been completed, and despite having been initially classified as apt for biological ageing, the condition of the flor on the surface of the wine the wine may be observed to be less vigorous than it should. In some cases large gaps may be observed in the film of yeast, or it may even have disappeared altogether, in which case there is no option but to surrender before the true vocation of the wine itself and fortify it to 17 per cent by volume so that a process of oxidative ageing may give rise to oloroso sherries. Finally this is also the time to identify those wines which, for different reasons, do not exhibit the qualities required by the different types of sherry wine. Either due to high levels of volatile acidity (in which case they are used to refresh criaderas used to produce Sherry Vinegar) or for any other reason which may cause the tasters to classify them as "unsuitable". After the exhaustive selection process of the second classification, the wines are now ready to feed the criaderas of the different ageing systems.

The evolution of Sherry A fundamental differentiating factor is the ageing system by which Sherry wines evolve within their wooden casks. Those wines which are subjected exclusively to biological ageing, protected from direct contact with the air by a natural film of yeast forming upon their surface, will conserve their initial pale colour and light, ethereal structure, as well as acquiring a series of aromatic notes and particular flavours, fruit of the yeast from which the film is formed. On the other hand, those wines subjected to an oxidative or physico- chemical ageing process in direct contact with the air take on progressively darker tones, incorporating more complex aromas and tastes which linger on the palate thanks to a structure which becomes gradually more and more intense. It is the decision of the bodeguero, to fortify the wine with wine- distillate to bring its alcoholic content up to either 15% volume or to over 17%, which will determine whether the film of yeast resting upon the surface will survive or not, and consequently determine the type of ageing the wine will undergo and the organoleptic characteristics it will acquire with the passage of time. Types of Ageing Ageing is without a doubt the decisive stage in the Sherry production process: the most prolonged in terms of its duration and a stage which witnesses the appearance of organoleptic characteristics which give rise to a whole range of different types of Sherry wines. Two types of crianza are carried out in the Jerez region: one that consists of storing and developing wine in wooden butts, where it undergoes slow, physico-chemical development influenced by surrounding conditions, known as envejecimiento (maturing) or oxidative ageing; and another known as biological ageing, a process that takes place under a film of yeasts known as velo de flor, during which the wine develops in a more dynamic way, driven by what goes on within the biological layer formed on its surface by specific indigenous ambient yeasts. In the case of biological ageing the influence of the flor is decisive: not only does it protect the wine from oxidation by preventing direct contact between the liquid and the air contained within the butt, but also the interaction of the yeast and the liquid brings about significant changes in the same: to the already mentioned consumption of alcohol as a consequence of its being metabolised by part of the flor must be added the consumption and consequent reduction of another series of elements initially present in the wine, such as glycerine or volatile acidity. Biological ageing, on the other hand, brings about a substantial increase in the content of acetaldehydes which are responsible for the sharp sensation in the nose which wines aged by this process gradually acquire. Oxidative ageing, however, facilitates the appearance of radically different characteristics in the wine: with a greater degree of alcoholic strength and in direct contact with oxygen in the air, the wine becomes gradually darker and is more clearly affected by the phenomenon of concentration produced as a consequence of the transpiration of specific elements in the wine through the walls of the butt. In accordance with the Pliego de Condiciones the ageing of sherry wines must be prolonged for a minimum period of two years. Frequently, the ageing time is much longer so that the wines may develop the distinctive characteristics of each type. Although in the case of oxidative ageing it is in fact possible to carry out static ageing without blending wines of differing ages, the traditional system in the region (and the only viable method with which to successfully carry out biological ageing) is the dynamic ageing system known as "criaderas y ".

The Butt The nature and capacity of the containers used in sherry-making have evolved over the course of its long history. The earliest vessels were earthenware amphorae and jars, and these continued to be used for over two thousand years. From the Middle Ages on, when the significant advantages of using wooden casks for transporting sherry became apparent, these also came to be used as storage or ageing containers. Changing the nature of the receptacle was to prove a milestone in the career of the region's wines in that it was instrumental in effecting major changes in their composition and sensory properties, effectively creating the prototype of the sherry we know today. The wooden casks used for ageing have varied widely in size, capacity and type depending on conditions and storage space. Toneles, toneletes, bocoyes, botas gordas, botas largas, botas cortas, medias botas, cuarterones and barriles, ranging in capacity from the 900 litre tonel to the 16.66 litre one-arroba barril, have all been used for ageing wine and their presence has configured winery spaces. Various woods - chestnut, local oak, American oak, and so on - have likewise been used. Nowadays, although casks of various types are still in use in many bodegas, the preferred and most widely employed type is the American oak 600 litre (equivalent to 36 arroba) butt, also known as a bodega butt. This type of wood is preferred to any other because of the specific contribution it makes to sherry, and it is furthermore traditional: it has been used since the first trading exchanges with the Americas, from which Spain imported wood and to which it exported wine.

The butts are not usually filled to the top: in the case of butts used for ageing wine under flor they are filled up to 30 arrobas (500 litres), leaving a space equivalent to that of "two fists" of air. This permits the creation of a surface area upon which the flor may develop and provides a sufficient surface/volume ratio for the influence of this upon the wine to be ideal. The wooden butt is neither a completely air-tight nor an inert receptacle since the wood is permeable to oxygen and also absorbs water from the wine it contains and then releases it into the winery's atmosphere. This transpiration causes the volume of wine in the butt to drop, the rate of loss increasing the drier the winery atmosphere becomes. This evaporation effect is known as merma and accounts for losses of 3 percent to 5 percent per year of the total wine stored. However, as the loss is essentially accounted for by water in the wine, this means that its other components are continually being concentrated. After long years of crianza, this is discernible in the increased alcoholic strength of wines aged without the protection afforded by a film of flor. This concentrating effect is not the only modification that will take place in the wine: it will also be enriched by subtle, specific contributions from the wood of the butt, which will have been thoroughly wine-seasoned before being put into service as an ageing receptacle. Meanwhile, the wine will have been developing gradually in this special environment by virtue either of the gradual but continuous impetus provided by the dose of oxygen that the wood allows to penetrate into its interior, or, in a different - more dynamic and substantial - way, of biological ageing beneath a film of flor.

The Solera Criadera System The traditional, genuine system used for ageing sherry wines is known as the Criaderas and Solera System. This is a dynamic system by which wines from different stages of the ageing process are blended together in order to perpetuate specific characteristics in the wine which is finally sold on the market, which is a result of combining all the different . The successful development of this ageing method requires a very precise arrangement of the sherry casks in the bodega according to the different levels of age, a process which takes place in what is known as the criaderas. Each solera is made up of various 'scales' or tiers, each in turn composed of a particular number of butts. The tier that contains the oldest wine is at floor level (the term 'solera' derives from the Spanish word for floor - suelo). The tiers placed on top of this, containing progressively younger wine the further away from the floor they are, are called criaderas (nurseries) and numbered according to their closeness in age to the solera tier (the closest being the 1st criadera; the next one, the 2nd criadera, and so on). The solera, or tier pertaining to the oldest level of the ageing process, produces sherry ready for bottling. Periodically, a specific proportion of the wine in each of the butts making up the solera system is extracted, leaving them partially empty. This operation is known as saca (taking out). The space thus created in the solera (floor-level) casks is topped up with wine taken from the next oldest scale, namely the saca from the 1st criader which sits in the tier above. The space thus created in the 1st criadera is then in turn topped up with wine similarly removed from the 2nd criadera, and so on up to the youngest scale, which is then topped up with wine obtained from the añada system. The operation of topping up, or refreshing, the space created in a scale is known as rocío (sprinkling), and the whole process of effecting the sacas and rocíos in a solera is called correr escalas (running the scales).

These movements of wine within the solera are known as trasiegos, and the bodega workers who specialise in the tasks involved are called trasegadores. They have to work with extreme care using special equipment and painstaking, traditional methods. Their skill resides in being able to homogenise all the wine contained in a butt after the rocío without disturbing the film of flor covering the surface of the biologically ageing wine or churning up the cabezuelas, or fine lees, that accumulate gradually at the bottom of the butt over the years. How often these operations take place and what proportion of wine is extracted are rigidly dictated by the wine's characteristics, since these factors influence the duration of the ageing process. The average ageing period in the solera system assigned to a wine is calculated by dividing the total volume of wine contained in the system by the volume of wine extracted from the solera annually. In accordance with the norms established by the Consejo Regulador, and with the aim of not putting sherry wines onto the market with less than two years of ageing, the said proportion must be greater than two. The solera system imprints a very special dynamic on the ageing process, and influences the nature of the wine in a singular way. It maintains the characteristics of the wine in the solera while eliminating the variations that occur between one and another.

Furthermore, the solera system provides significant benefits for biological ageing under velo de flor since, during this type of ageing, wines are subjected to continuous, intense metabolic action from the film-forming yeast. Maintaining this culture requires essential micro-nutrients, and these are provided by adding small quantities of wines from young añadas; in the course of successive 'refreshments', small quantities of young wines reach the oldest scales. This tops up the contents with the compounds necessary to support vigorous biological ageing under a film of flor yeast which might decline but for this nutritional input. The continuous transferral of wines within the solera system also has the effect of dissolving a certain amount of oxygen in it, thereby stimulating regeneration and growth in the film of flor which will have deteriorated slightly in the process. This input of oxygen is rapidly consumed by the yeasts' breathing, however, and the wine remains protected beneath the inert atmosphere that the velo de flor provides for it. In solera wines aged non-biologically, or simply aged, the oxygen introduced during decanting operations accelerates the oxidative processes of wine maturation.

Sobretablas: Term applied to must that has just been fortified for various purposes, and which from then on is referred to as wine. Andana: Arrangement of a row of butts placed contiguously, one-deep, and with their long axis horizontal, with other superimposed rows whose butts rest in the angles between the butts in the layer below.

Ageing under a film of flor and the criadera & solera system are genuinely exceptional in wine-making worldwide. The way the solera and criadera system works means that the oldest wines benefit both from being refreshed with young wines and from characteristic acquired over years of crianza. The secret of biological ageing (which produces fino, and amontillado sherries) is the velo de flor - a layer of years that covers the wine's surface and endows it with unique, characteristic qualities Functional architecture The complex processes which make possible the ageing and maturing of sherry wines require the existence of very precise environmental conditions, ones that are not always available given the climate of the Jerez Region. Warm and southern in nature, but with the strong influence of the Atlantic Ocean, the climate of the region produces strong oscillations in temperature, changes in levels of humidity according to the dominant winds, etc... This has forced the sherry firms in the Jerez Region to adapt the architectural design of their bodegas in order to diminish the negative factors of the climate and take advantage of the more positive aspects. If we take a look at the sherry bodegas in the Jerez Region we may conclude at a first sight, from an aesthetic point of view, that they are very beautiful buildings and are frequently an impressive sight due to their dimensions. But if in addition we analyse them according to the requirements of the sherry ageing systems we discover that they are also extremely functional in their design. In a bodega, both the orientation of the ground plan and the structural characteristics of the façade and roof behave as filters that slough off those elements of the weather that are harmful to the ageing wine and allow in the beneficial ones. Fluctuations in temperature inside the building are prevented by the walls' thermal inertia and permeability to moisture, so that day and night hygrothermal conditions are kept constant. Bodegas are built in strategic places where the gentle southerly and westerly winds blowing in from the Atlantic can circulate easily. These breezes are laden with the moisture needed for the development of flor.

The rectangular shape of the bodega floor-plan adapts to a northeast-southeast axis so that moisture can get into the interior of the bodega unimpeded, yet blocking the harmful, strong, dry levante winds blowing in from the east and north-east. The way that the winery is oriented also minimises the effects on its walls of the hours of strongest sunshine. Bodegas in Jerez are unusually tall buildings, sometimes as tall as 15 metres at their central arch. The interior space of a bodega consists of a large volume of air whose function it is to provide flor yeast with the oxygen it needs to develop inside a butt. Additionally, this huge space acts as an insulating chamber that regulates temperature and humidity. Its height is conducive to induced ventilation - a stack effect caused by the difference in temperature when the wind is not blowing from the Atlantic. The heat tends to rise and accumulate in the bodega's upper spaces; by means of vents placed high up in the east and west walls, a dynamic vertical and horizontal draught is created that pushes the accumulated hot air out. In summer, the south façade of a bodega is shielded from the sun by screens of vegetation in the form of trees or pergolas in the streets that run alongside it. These serve as natural sunshades, absorbing the sun's radiation and providing perforated canopies that let through the gentle breezes that make their way into the winery and keep hygrometric conditions at the proper levels. In winter, when the leaves of these deciduous canopies fall and leave the walls exposed, the big expanses of whitewashed façade attract the sun's rays, storing the heat and transmitting it to the bodega's interior during the night.

The windows are generally set high in the upper third of the walls. They are small, rectangular or square in shape, and arranged in symmetrical, repeated rhythms. The arches that support the roof structure are designed to let the breezes in and allow the air that comes in perpendicular to the nave's longitudinal axis to circulate. The height at which the windows are placed, and the esparto-grass blinds with which they are covered during the day, create a diffuse, diagonal light that remains consistent despite the changing position of the sun in relation to the walls of the building. In addition to controlling the quality of light, the blinds and lattices sometimes placed in the vent openings filter the air, preventing dust or undesirable insects from getting in. The uniformly subdued light inside the bodega also serves as a temperature regulating instrument, and is essential to preventing any disturbance in the butts. Bodega walls are usually single-skin and at least 60 centimetres thick, so that the wall mass, which is thermally very inert, compensates for the absence of any specific thermal insulation. The walls are built of very porous material which also contributes to producing high levels of humidity. The bodega floor is covered with albero earth which, according to the season, can be sprinkled with water to regulate the temperature and humidity inside the building. Albero is a very porous material that, when saturated, lowers the temperature and keeps it cool by gradually releasing water into the atmosphere. In short, a whole range of building techniques which provide the wine with the ideal habitat in which ageing process is allowed to develop under optimal conditions.

The cathedral-bodegas are unchallenged as the Jerez region´s most impressive contribution to wine architecture. Architectural elements of the bodegas contribute to the optimum microclimate for aging wine. The Final Preparation Once the saca has been obtained from the solera, then the wine is ready to be bottled or, where applicable, for fortifying other wines with the aim of producing specific types of sherry wine. It is frequently the case that the blends thus obtained are then returned once more to the wooden casks for a time in order to complete the blending process. Those wines which are to be directly bottled firstly undergo a process of clarification using bentonite and egg white or gelatine, substances which provoke decantation by dragging down any solid substances in suspension. The clarification process is followed by filtration and, in most cases, cooling treatment. It involves provoking the formation bitartrate crystals which would otherwise form once the wine is in the bottle by submitting it to sharp changes in temperature. Depending upon the alcoholic strength of the wine it is subject for a period of days to temperatures of between -7º and -11º Centigrade. Once cleared of any crystals which have formed and been decanted during the cold treatment the wine is filtered once again and at this point, now totally transparent and gleaming, is ready for bottling. Bottling techniques employing inert gas are frequently used by sherry firms in order to preserve the organoleptic conditions of the wine for as long as possible and to avoid the effect which the presence of any air within the bottle might have. The process involves the injection of a small quantity of nitrogen into the bottle after filling and before the top is fitted. Any air is displaced by the Nitrogen, which is a totally inert gas heavier than air, thus allowing the bottle to close without the presence of any oxygen in the interior. The wine is now ready to begin its journey to the consumer.

Master of Wine Richard Ballantyne 18 High Street, Cowbridge Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino En Rama 2018 Release

Grape: Palomino

15%

£14.99

Bottled 9th April 2018

Unfiltered and unclarified

Drink now

Aged for an average of 4 years in American oak casks

Serve chilled 6-8 °C

Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino En Rama 2018 Release

Spring is an exciting time for Sherry lovers, as this is when we see the new release of Fino En Rama. This is a style of Sherry that was created by Gonzalez Byass 9 years ago, drawing 4 year old Fino Sherry from the cask, and bottling it with no filtration or any clarification whatsoever. The resulting wine is slightly hazy, but it is richer in aromatics and body, and has the strong flavour of 'flor' which makes Fino lovers go weak at knees. We have secured a small allocation of this very limited release of Tio Pepe En Rama which will be arriving next week. Keep a bottle in the fridge all summer long and discover the amazing experience Fino Sherry, pure and authentic, straight from the barrel. Each year, the label changes, but always inspired by labels from Tio Pepe's very long history.

£14.99 15% Bottled 9th April 2018 Label : “2018 marks the ninth limited release of Tio Pepe Fino En Rama. Each annual bottling is distinguished by a unique label, each one based on an artwork uncovered in the Gonzalez Byass archives in Jerez. Tio Pepe Fino En Rama is an unfiltered, unclarified Tio Pepe, bottled during spring when the flor growth is at its thickest. “En Rama” is the term used in the bodega in its raw, most delicate state, as if drinking directly from the cask itself. Always serve chilled and refrigerate after opening.”

The 2018 saca (draw off) marks the ninth release of En Rama from Tio Pepe, the first Sherry house to producer this style. En Rama is a very particular style of Fino, made from wine drawn from solera butts during the spring when the flor (the veil of yeast which forms a layer on top of the wine) is at its strongest and most aromatic, and bottled with no filtration nor clarification - in effect this is Fino Sherry in its most authentic form. The resulting wine is very slightly hazy, but it makes up for that with its amazing aromatics, richness of body and flavour. It is best drunk upon release and soon after (up to 6 months is best) so it is delightfully fresh, keeping its 'En Rama' characteristics. The wine has been aged for an average of 4 years in American oak casks, and is completely bone dry with strong salty and flor notes on the nose and a delicate, but remarkably complex palate.

Montañar 2016

Grape: Verdejo

12.5%

£8.99

Organic and biodynamic

Montañar 2016 Verdejo Verdejo is normally found in the western region of Rueda where it makes some of Spain’s best whites. Here the variety was grown in La Mancha. Montañar is an organic estate and maskers some very good £/£ wines

Verdejo is rich in green fruits notes, combined with fresh herbs and a salty tang. Not dissimilar to , but this variety is more acclimatised to the warmth of Southern Spain

Montañar means 'mountainous', and the winery takes its name from the Serrania de Cuenca mountain range in Castilla-La Mancha. Produced in the biodynamic and family run winery of the Parra brothers this verdejo is bursting with exotic, tropical fruits and citrus zest. It has well-balanced acidity and alcohol. A wonderful addition to the wine rack.

£8.99 12.5% Montañar means 'mountainous', and is named for the Serrania de Cuenca in Castilla-La-Mancha. The wines come from the family run winery established by the three Parra brothers (Francisco, Javier and Luis) in 1993. The brothers had the foresight, in the beginning to move to organic and then biodynamic viticulture. All of Montañar's vineyards have been certified organic since 1997 and biodynamic since 2012 because they feel they get the best fruits this way. Tasting Notes: Pale straw yellow. The Verdejo has an exotic nose that verges on tropical fruit but retains a citrus zest on the palate. Intense fruit aromas and apple blossom are reflected on the palate with an additional hint of bitter almond. Light in body, with well balanced acidity and alcohol. Bodegas Castaño Hecula Monastrell 2015

Grape: Monastrell (known in as Mourvèdre)

14%

£9.99

Oak aged

Bodegas Castaño Hecula Monastrell 2015

Label : “The Castano family is today one of the most respected wine producers in South- Eastern Spain. Their roots can be traced many generations back in Yecla. A small wine region in the North of Murcia. Hecula implies the change from a classical winemaking style to a more modern view. Its fruitiness and brief ageing play the essential role in this untreated and unfiltered wine.” This is made from Monastrell and grown in Yecla which is between Alicante and Murcia. Very much a mediterranean wine. Spicy.

This oak-aged Monastrell (a grape known in France as Mourvèdre) was produced by Bodegas Castaño on two high altitude older vineyards averaging 750m above sea level. There's a specific microclimate in these areas that differentiate it from the rest of the estate's holdings, with very cold winters and hot summers, leading to greater depth and concentration in the wines. You'll find an aromatic glassful, with raspberry and liquorice notes and a floral hint. To taste (or rather to drink), it's ripe and rich, with smooth black fruit laced with vanilla spice from the oak.

£9.99 14% Viña Elena 2015 Portazgo Jumilla Monastrell

Grape: Monastrell + a little Syrah (Shiraz)

14.5%

£9.99

Organic

Viña Elena 2015 Portazgo Jumilla Monastrell Syrah An organic producer in Jumilla. Monastrell, again, but this time with a little Syrah added.

Jumilla is deep in southern Spain, and makes robust reds, rich in body and spicy. Monastrell is king here, but this is blended with some Syrah giving it blackberry and peppercorn notes.

Label : “The flavours of Monastrell (fruity and smooth) combine perfectly with Syrah (elegance, deep colour and aroma). The resulting wine is clean, round and easy to drink. Ideal with tapas, grilled meat and cheeses.”

£9.99 14.5% Founded in 1948 by Francisco Pacheco, the grandfather of the three sisters who run the winery today, the total estate comprises 260 hectares of vineyards, olive and almond groves. Monastrell is the predominant variety of the Viña Elena portfolio and flourishes in the nutrient poor, limestone soils in this semi-arid DO of Jumilla. Still trained using the traditional Sapnish method "en vaso", the wines produced by Viña Elena are certified organic, demonstrating both a modern outlook with a regard for tradition and a total respect for nature.

Famous for the robust and earthy, black-fruit dominated, Monastrell (known as Mourvedre in France), Jumilla is an arid and hot region in southeast Spain. Its vine yields tend to be torturously low but this can create wines of exceptional intensity and flavor. Quality combined with accessible price points give the region great recognition on international markets far and wide. The reds from Jumilla are heady and spicy, packed with fruit and show aromas of dried licorice and herbs.

Syrah/shiraz Its homeland is the northern Rhône in France, where it is known as syrah, but Australia calls it shiraz and has made it its own So syrah and shiraz are genetically the same grape - but the wines they produce can be very different in style, depending on origin. The typical old-world syrah is lighter and leaner than the intense shiraz wines of the new world, which tend to be richer, riper and more full-bodied. In certain areas, the name you get on the bottle - syrah or shiraz - will be an indication of style rather than where it is from.

Sources: http://winefolly.com/review/map-of-spain-wine-regions/ https://www.sherry.wine/ https://noblegrape.co.uk/ https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2015/07/graphs-detail-plummeting-sherry-sales/