Maritime Alps Spring in Mercantour A Greentours Tour Report 18th to 25th May 2011 Led by Paul Cardy and Stefano Doglio Daily Accounts and Systematic Lists written by Paul Cardy This year’s May tour to the Maritime Alps was especially productive, with some very special finds. Initially we were based at a small pleasant family run hotel in the Valdeblore hamlet of La Bolline, a fine location, well situated for all excursions, and with a small grocery and a bakery just along the street where I could do the daily picnic shopping whilst the group enjoyed breakfast. Dinners at the two restaurants we used in the friendly village were very enjoyable. For the last three nights we moved to the other side of Mercantour National Park, and the hamlet of Casterino, which allowed easy access into the Italian Alpi Marittime, a superbly productive area. On the arrival day Stefano and I drove to Nice from my home in Italy, a few valleys to the north, across the Col de la Lombarde. At the airport, arrival was straightforward, with me driving the earlier arrivals, and Stefano waiting for the others. On this first journey to the hotel I made one of the discoveries of the tour, the endemic Lilium pomponium in superb flower, and later in the week we would see more of this beautiful species at another site. Our excursions during the week mixed lower Mediterranean influenced sites, through mid altitude meadows and subalpine forests, to alpine pastures above the tree line, producing a wealth of flora and fauna in these different habitats. A feature in this season is Saxifraga callosa in fine flower, locally abundant cascading from cliffs. On the first full day we travelled up to the alpine zone, driving down to the Tinee Valley, thence to Isola, and up to Isola 2000 and above to the Col de la Lombarde (or Lombarda). Remarkably for this time of year the melted snow allowed us to get all the way to the Col itself, at about 2,300m, with fine views of the surrounding peaks as a backdrop. Perhaps the best find here was Saxifraga retusa augustana in fine flower. This and various higher altitude stops yielded species such as Ranunculus kuepferi; the endemic Gentiana ligustica; both purple and yellow Elder-flowered Orchids just coming out; the near endemic Viola calcarata cavillieri; Pulmonaria picta; Crocus albiflorus; Gagea fragifera; and some fine examples of the tessellated yellow moggridgei variety of Fritillaria tubaeformis. The more prosaic Colt’s foot was numerous, and lower down Clematis alpina was in bloom, and there were two fine Lady Orchids. Back in the Tinee valley yet more plants of interest were found in a series of stops. Here were Saxifraga paniculata, Saxifraga cuneifolia, Alyssum ligusticum, Tree Heath, White Asphodel, and Rock 1 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563 Cinquefoil. Common on the roadsides here, and in much of the area generally were Rock Soapwort, Snapdragon, Red Valerian, and Blue Lettuce. Much more local was Senecio cineraria, with a few in flower. Another alpine day saw us driving a valley above St.Martin Vesubie, above the tree line, to Madone de Fenestre. Here the slopes had much Alpine Pasque Flower, and the only Primula hirsuta of the tour was found. In the village of Le Boreon, a stop to admire a waterfall had the bonus of Primula latifolia by the roadside. Below the view point was much more of the primula, but little else was in flower here. This was the case around the small hamlet itself, where the vegetation was just waking up after the long winter, with butterburs being just about all that was in flower. Above the village a short walk proved productive for Violas, with Viola biflora, Viola palustris and more Viola calcarata cavillieri all in bloom. Coal Tits and Blackcaps were active in the spruces, and we enjoyed fine views of snow-capped mountains against a pure blue sky. At Madone de Fenestre, as well as the aforementioned fine Pulsatilla alpina, in perfect fresh flower, Androsace adfinis was a pleasing find. Northern Wheatears were typical of the habitat. A little lower a Soldanella alpina stop produced many fine patches of this always special plant by the snowmelt, as well as many, mostly white, Crocus albiflorus and some great Scilla bifolia. A short stop was to admire a fine plant of Hairy Broom beside the road. A drive again along the Tinee Valley took us back to the village of Rimplas, perched impressively above the valley, its Maginot line fort dominating, a fine defensive vantage point. In the hot afternoon sun we walked up the winding road towards this fort, built following the First World War. The flora here shows a strong Mediterranean influence, but with montane species also a feature. Spiny Spurge was common, and the architectural umbellifer Molopospermum peloponnesiacum was as always impressive, not least for its name. Plantago sempervirens was an interesting species, and there was much Meadow Saxifrage and St.Lucie’s Cherry. A Humming-bird Hawk-moth nectared on the Red Valerian. The Lizard Orchids were in bud, and in fact were in fine flower this year when I returned in July. Short-toed Eagle and Golden Eagle were seen very well. A road took us to just below a village where we enjoyed a remarkably productive stop. The highlight was a cliff cascading with Saxifraga callosa, the white sprays being in just perfect form at this time. Otherwise there was a distinct Mediterranean influence with Prickly and Phoenicean Junipers, Mediterranean Buckthorn, and Terebinth among the shrubs. The attractive pink Common Rockrose was subspecies berteroanum, and there were Spiny Spurge, Jasminum fruticans, Argyrolobium zanonii and Tassel Hyacinth. The viviparous Poa bulbosa was much in evidence. Lower down the same road were a number of Sword-leaved Helleborines on the verges, and a few Monkey Orchids, and St. Bernard’s Lily was in bloom. Many other good plants followed including Bastard Balm, Purple Gromwell, Alpine Calamint, Stachys recta, Linaria simplex and Carex halleriana. A highlight was a patch of Aristolochia pistolochia. A feature of the roadsides here was the impressively large flowered Biscutella cichoriifolia. A number of Chamois were seen during the week, closely below the Col de Lombarde, several at Madone de Fenestre, and one at Limone 1400. Alpine Marmots were active on the alpine slopes, and Red Squirrel was seen well along the Casterino road. A good trip for reptiles began with a Western Whip Snake on the highway just north of Nice, with another seen later in the week at La Bolline. Montpellier Snake was recorded, and a species of Elaphe appeared too briefly to be positively 2 © Greentours Limited. Visit www.greentours.co.uk for further details. Telephone 01298 83563 identified. Common Wall Lizards were widespread and a bonus was two Slow Worms found near Tende. Back in the Vesubie valley a longer drive took us down past the impressive village of Lantosque, through a gorge, then up the western slope of the valley to the village of Utelle, through olive groves and fine roadsides of Mediterranean flora. The interesting Mediterranean shrub Coriaria myrtifolia, one of very few members of its family, was locally common. A lone Greater Butterfly Orchid was in bloom on the verge, where were also some St. Bernard’s Lilies. More fine weather saw us heading south for more Mediterranean climes. Having got through the coastal sprawl after about an hour and a half we were back in fine limestone upland. On the way the roadsides were colourful with species such as Rosy Garlic, Galactites, and Urospermum, the Cote d’Azur stretching below us. Already the Fritillaria involucrata was mostly over this year. Aristolochia pallida was a pleasing find. Both Swallowtail and Scarce Swallowtail were on the wing. At lower altitudes Common Rockrose, Lathyrus cicera, and Helichrysum stoechas were among the many typical Mediterranean plants, whilst species such as Globularia bisnagarica showed the alpine influence. Toothed Orchid, Pyramidal Orchid, and a lone Ophrys drumana were here. Nightingale sang continuously and both Cirl and Ortolan Buntings perched atop bushes. A drive up towards a ski station, of course deserted at this time of year, produced slopes with much Valeriana tuberosa, Ornithogalum umbellatum, and Anthyllis montana. The attractive Potentilla cinerea was in flower, and became commoner the higher up we went, the diminutive Hornungia petraea was found, and Ranunculus monspeliacus was in flower. We enjoyed a rather cool picnic in a productive site near the ski village. There were many of the diminutive Tulipa australis here, albeit rather closed up in the dull weather. Viola rupestris and Iberia saxatilis were here too. Later a stop was made for Elder-flowered Orchids in both colour forms. Two interesting composites discovered in the area this year were Leucanthemum burnatii and Serratula nudicaulis. Next we visited a site at which I had been delighted to discover a superb colony of Paeonia officinalis huthii, an endemic subspecies, the previous year. Colouring the hillside red were literally hundreds of blooms. Excitedly we had clambered up through the trees, and hundreds became thousands, stretching all along the slope. Sadly this year nearly all were gone over, but finally a few good flowers were located at the top of the slope. This was also a good site for butterflies, with several of the species mentioned below being seen here. There followed another highlight, a series of wet meadows full of many thousands of Poet’s-eye Narcissus. Here too were Broad-leaved Marsh Orchids, Greater Spearwort, and Marsh Cinquefoil in bud.