INTO THE SALT 36 Spring 2014 BIMINI’S GIANT BONEFISH Affordable, close, amazing. Story & photographs by GREG THOMAS FlyRod&Reel 37 INTO THE SALT DON’T THINK HEMINGWAY REALLY CARED ABOUT A QUIET What was there were the biggest bonefi sh I’ve ever seen. I’m not Iplace to write when he spent consecutive years on Bimini, back a worldly bonefi sh traveler, but I have chased them in the Keys and in 1935 and 1936, although he did pen To Have and Have Not during Belize, and on other Bahamian islands, and these were an entirely that time. Instead, I think he moved to Bimini different fi sh. For instance, during our fi rst full day at the Sands, for the same reason the rest of us would— Santella and I climbed onto a flats skiff with local for an excuse to do nothing but fi sh. guide Eagle Eye Fred, while Deeter and Smock I formed that opinion over four short teamed up with another well known guide, days in February 2013, when I joined Bonefi sh Ebbie. Literally, in fi ve minutes we writer Chris Santella, and editors Kirk were poling across a giant, rectangular fl at Deeter (Trout Magazine) and Chuck that divides North Bimini Island from South Smock (Cabela’s O u t fi t t e r J o u r n a l ), and Bimini Island and it wasn’t long before we tested a lodging and fishing operation were throwing at bones. After Santella and called Bimini Sands Resort. I each landed four-pound bonefi sh Eagle Bimini Sands rests just 55 miles from Eye said, “Big bone, right there, back out Miami, but it might as well be 5,000 miles of the water, tailing.” away when comparing the laid-back and Santella stepped to the bow and modest island to blingsville. Bimini is not launched a half-dozen casts at that fi sh, luxe, that’s for sure, which is part of the which was practically beaching itself, its reason why I immediately fell in love with nose buried in the mud, the upper half of its it. Not that I should have been surprised. body completely out of the water. Unfortunately, one of Santel- Deeter arrived two days prior to my visit to scuba-dive. When I la’s casts nearly whacked the fi sh on the head and it departed quickly, shook his hand at the resort he looked me in the eyes and said, leaving a big wake and a broken dream behind. After a few seconds “You’re not going to believe what’s here.” of silence Santella chuckled and said, “Well, I messed that up.” 38 Spring 2014 No worries. After landing a couple more bones and blow- Next up was a flat on the southeast side of South Bimini, ing a couple more shots at six- to seven-pounders—yes, six- to where Santella, Deeter and I talked Smock into dropping us seven-pounders—we raced through a cut in the north island off for a two-mile wadefish. We didn’t find many fish on that and arrived on an outside flat swarming with bonefish. These flat, but the ones we saw were big. I continued pulling flies weren’t the giants we’d found on the inside flat, but school- away from good fish, but Deeter, who has plenty of bonefish boys running in a pack of 30 that seemed too nervous to give experience under his belt, put the metal into a good one and us any solid shots. We cast repeatedly at the fish but they just then hung on, hoping his fish wouldn’t peel all the backing weren’t in the taking mood, and they finally disappeared in from his reel. A few minutes later he and Santella were admir- the mangroves. ing a seven-pounder. Soon we headed back to the inside flat and as we were That evening we took in a couple of rum drinks at Mack- running I said, “Any permit around here?” Eagle Eye cut the ey’s Sand Bar before Deeter and Smock headed back to their engine and said, “Right here, on this deeper flat, on the right condo. Santella and I decided to take one more crack at South stage of the tide, they always here. Keep your eyes open.” Bimini’s bonefish. Shortly after, we found a place to access a The permit never showed, but more big tailing bones did. beach and had just started wading a flat when Santella spot- Unfortunately, Santella and I were still working out our kinks ted a half-dozen fish headed our way. I couldn’t pick them out, when the fishing ended and we hit the resort. so he cast and a moment later all his line was headed for the The following day we climbed aboard a larger boat and headed Bonefish Packages at Bimini Sands to the bluewater fishing grounds, which begin In 2013, Bimini Sands started a fly-fishing program that provides just a couple hundred anglers lodging, fully guided fly-fishing (plus all the gear and flies), three yards in front of the full meals a day, plus free drinks (yes, that means cocktails) at the resort Sands, and trolled for and at Mackey’s Sand Bar, all for as little as $430 a day, with a minimum wahoo and whatever three-night stay. Anglers can fly to Bimini from a variety of locations, else might bite. We also including Miami and Fort Lauderdale. From Fort Lauderdale, Bimini is a dropped lighter lines to the bottom and caught short 20- to 25-minute flight. a variety of snapper and For reservations contact Bimini Sands at [email protected]; other reef fish. When call 800-737-1007; visit their Web site at www.biminisands.com we hit the dock late that { } afternoon we offloaded three big wahoo, all in the 25- to 35-pound range. They were deep Atlantic. A few minutes later he brought a nice four- or delivered quickly to the Bimini Twist restaurant and sushi five-pound bonefish to hand and then gently released it over bar, which rests just a couple miles away from the Sands, the white sand. reachable over dirt road by the island’s preferred vehicle, Santella said, “It’s pretty amazing to have a drink and then the golf cart. We enjoyed a great meal of wahoo, octopus just wade out on a flat, at some random spot, and find bonefish and conch, and then returned to the resort and turned in, right there.” I agreed, but was becoming less surprised each ready for our final day on the water. time we did so—on the first night of our trip I’d jumped in at an access, spotted a tailing bone in the mangroves, and five HE FOLLOWING MORNING WE MANNED A SMALL minutes later had that five-pounder at my feet. Tskiff and headed to the flats on our own, where we wade- Probably there are other places that offer this style of fished and stalked numerous tailing bones, just across the bonefishing, with equally large fish wound into the equa- channel from Alice Town, the north island’s only settlement tion, but maybe I’m wrong. I can say this: Bimini is a special and, again, just five minutes from the Sands. Santella hooked place for the bonefisherman, even 80 years after Hemingway and landed a solid bone, but I failed miserably, blowing one “discovered” it, and it changed me a little. Now, whenever great opportunity after the next, including a shot at a fish that I hear the phrase, “When I die I want to go to heaven,” my might have weighed eight pounds. An hour later, when a big train of thought stops and I say to myself, “I don’t want to lemon shark slowly swam across the flat, its dorsal carving the die and go anywhere. I want to keep living for a long time surface, I turned to Santella and said, “We should probably go.” and move to Bimini.” FlyRod&Reel 39 INTO THE SALT 40 Spring 2014 WE WERE VERY LUCKY Life lessons learned off Glover’s Reef, Belize. Story & photographs by BRIAN IRWIN LOYD NUNEZ IS A QUIET GUIDE . THE 46-YEAR-OLD Garifuna man directs mostly by discreet hand Lgestures and forced whispers. He’s never been to New York, but wears a shirt that declares, “Brooklyn: Only the Strong Survive.” He has an enigmatic smile and rough, work-hardened hands. He’s guided for bonefish, tarpon and permit off the coast of central Belize for 22 years, and knows the coral isles that make up the Great Barrier and Glover’s reefs well. Because he was raised on them. FlyRod&Reel 41 INTO THE SALT Nunez spent most of his youth on South Water Cay, 15 of coral that surrounds more than 160 square miles of shallow acres of coral with no running water or power (even today). turquoise water. The water thins to skinny as it approaches South Water Cay is part of Belize’s Great Barrier Reef, the the eastern edge of the reef, where a fi n of jagged coral runs second largest in the world. The cay and its surrounding isles the length of the reef. It’s only exposed above water for a few are skirted with shallow fl ats, often carpeted with turtle grass. miles, allowing it to generate four idyllic, remote islands that Some have deep coves that hold pods of resident tarpon.