ONCE WERE VIKINGS The ancient Norse warrior stamping ground of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s old town, is now all about architecture, eclectic shopping and good coffee. WorDS LEE TUllOCH PHOTogrAPHY SIMON BAJADA OCTOBEr 2013 QANTAS 65 BROWSING Left: enjoying fika in Gamla Stan Opposite, clockwise from top left: Under Kastanjen (and previous page); Den Gyldene Freden; Edblad; cobbled streets in Gamla Stan; Georg Sörman; Den Gyldene Freden; Edblad; coffee and cake at Under Kastanjen; Sticka (centre) THE REGION AROUND STOCKHOLM bakeries and restaurants with outdoor terraces, best enjoyed was Viking heartland during the Dark Ages, but the Vikings during the brief summer, and the Nobel Museum, with its would not have found much use for the plastic breastplates pleasant cafe, in the Stock Exchange building. and moose-shaped toilet-roll holders that fill the souvenir In the early part of last century, this residential neighbour- shops on the western side of the city’s old town, Gamla Stan. hood was a slum and, happily, it was overlooked for any Gamla Stan occupies the small island of Stadsholmen, significant new development. Architecture buffs will get which links the city centre to Södermalm, the bohemian serious thrills from wandering the narrow lanes. While most neighbourhood where Stieg Larsson’s Millennium trilogy is of the mansion-roofed, German-style houses, painted rich set (the Stockholm Visitors Board runs a Millennium Tour). ochres and reds, date back to the 17th century, some are The island’s cobbled streets are well-trodden by tourists who thought to be much older. come to see the imposing 18th-century Royal Palace and The mediaeval city and fortress walls lie less than a metre the changing of the guard. But Gamla Stan also has quiet beneath the newer buildings, and mediaeval details such pockets and pedestrian streets full of intriguing shops that as water pipes and iron reinforcements can be found on seem to exist outside the souvenir-buyer’s orbit. Even the many facades. Carved Viking stones are set into the walls city’s oldest and most famous restaurant, Den Gyldene in various locations. The only sign of modernity is the Freden, at 51 Österlånggatan, which dates from 1722, feels extraordinary number of cigarette butts in the gutters of an local and authentic. No wonder – it’s the oldest restaurant in otherwise tidy neighbourhood. Swedes are heavy smokers. the world with an unaltered interior lit by candles. They’re also the world’s number-one coffee drinkers; fika Gamla Stan is ringed by Österlånggatan (East Long (socialising over coffee) is a national pastime. The pretty Street) and Våsterlanggatan (West Long Street). In the hilly cafe and bakery Under Kastanjen (Under the Chestnut centre, alleys with names such as Slope of the Ramshackle Tree) at 1 Kindstugatan, sits in a beautiful pocket with out- House and Shoemaker’s Street radiate from a former market door tables under, yes, a spreading chestnut tree. Cafe Rosen square, Stortorget, lined with old merchant houses, new at 9 Österlånggatan serves up home-made Swedish fika photography: john laurie/bauersyndication.com.au 66 QANTAS OCTOBER 2013 Stortorget (left); Riddarhuset (House of Nobility, above), Gamla Stan specialties and cakes, and, if you’re adventurous, descend to the oldest vaulted cellar in the city for coffee STAY and truffles at Brautigams (at 49 Våsterlanggatan). If the old world gets too much, launch yourself into Grand Hotel the Belle Époque with a drink at the opulent Le Bar Rouge at 17 Österlånggatan. 8 Södra Blasieholmshamnen. While Våsterlanggatan is the most touristy street, it’s still marked by some beautiful architecture and (0)8 679 3500. grandhotel.se passageways. There are lots of Viking garden gnomes, clogs and reindeer pelts, but also interesting it’s only a few minutes’ walk along boutiques, including Ewa iWalla at 35, for romantic flounced dresses designed for grown-up Pippi the harbour from gamla stan to Longstockings, and Georg Sörman at 57, a traditional knitwear shop (established in 1917) where you this venerable five-star hotel, once might snaffle a trendy patterned sweater like that favoured by The Killing’s Sarah Lund. favoured by greta garbo and now Among the chocolate shops and wine bars (stop at Lisa’s sweet shop, 65, for a gooey moccabollar) most visiting celebrities. rooms there are glove shops (Handskbutiken at 71) and shoe shops such as the charming Roberta Settels at have been recently renovated, the 54, which sells simple handmade leather sandals. At 36, the flagship store of jeweller Edblad from harbourfront Veranda cafe has Sweden’s northern archipelago has some very stylish stainless-steel pieces at good prices. Head for Iris been transformed and the new Hantverk, at 24, for the best of Swedish rustic interior design – thick blankets, clogs, feltwork and brushes. nordic spa & health club is truly At the other end of the scale, there’s a fascinatingly chaotic junk shop at number 39. superb. mathias dahlgren, one of Eventually, you will find yourself on Österlånggatan. The tourists thin out and there are some wonder- sweden’s most revered chefs, ful little shops. Sticka, at 41, sells unique hand-loomed yarns in an extraordinary range of textures and operates two restaurants in the colours, and ready-made garments, some with elaborate fur collars, and vests made from reindeer pelts. hotel – the two michelin-starred At 37, Johannes showcases a gorgeous collection of homewares, antiques and bric-a-brac, including matsalen and the marvellous vintage costumes from the Swedish National Theatre. The amusingly named Fartygsmagasinet, at 33, one-starred bistro, matbaren. is a treasure trove of nautical memorabilia, including old menus and crockery from cruise ships. from SEK1573 ($269). Walking around Gamla Stan, water is never far away. Stadsholmen is one of 14 islands scattered like breadcrumbs between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea, which make up greater Stockholm. But even in For airfares to Sweden the blustery winter months, this little island is inviting with its yellow-painted buildings and candlelit call Qantas on 13 13 13 interiors. And there is no shortage of warm cinnamon buns and hot chocolate for inner fortitude. c or visit qantas.com stortorget photography: getty images; riddarhuset: corbis 68 QANTAS OCTOBER 2013.