The Genesis of the Textile Industry from Adorned Nudity to Ritual Regalia The changing role of fibre crafts and their evolving techniques of manufacture in the Ancient Near East from the Natufian to the Ghassulian Janet Levy Archaeopress Archaeology Archaeopress Publishing Ltd Summertown Pavilion 18-24 Middle Way Summertown Oxford OX2 7LG www.archaeopress.com ISBN 978-1-78969-448-2 ISBN 978-1-78969-449-9 (e-Pdf) © Janet Levy and Archaeopress 2020 Cover photos: Male/left figurine:Bir Safadi, Beer-Sheva, photograph by Clara Amit, courtesy of Jean Perrot and the Israel Antiquities Authority; Female/right figurine: Tell Halif, northeast Negev, Lahav Project; courtesy of Oded Borowski, Joe Seger and the Israel Antiquities Authority All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Printed in England by Severn, Gloucester This book is available direct from Archaeopress or from our website www.archaeopress.com Contents List of Figures.................................................................................................................................................................................v Acknowledgements ..................................................................................................................................................................... ix Abstract ........................................................................................................................................................................................ xi Chapter 1 Objective, methodology, environment and the Natufian to Ghassulian archaeological background 1.1 Objective ...................................................................................................................................................................................1 1.2 Methodology ............................................................................................................................................................................2 1.2.1 Experimentation ............................................................................................................................................................2 1.2.2 Database: spindle whorls ..............................................................................................................................................2 1.2.3 Iconography....................................................................................................................................................................3 1.2.4 Textual sources ..............................................................................................................................................................3 1.2.5 Ethnography ...................................................................................................................................................................3 1.3 Geography, topography and climate ....................................................................................................................................4 1.4 Overview of local, archaeologically attested, fibre manufacturing techniques ...........................................................5 1.5 Pre-Natufian fibre traditions of the southern Levant .......................................................................................................6 1.6 History of Research .................................................................................................................................................................8 1.6.1 Technological change ....................................................................................................................................................8 1.6.2 The Egyptian sphere......................................................................................................................................................8 1.6.3 The Mesopotamian sphere ...........................................................................................................................................8 1.6.4 Ethnography and ethnoarchaeology ..........................................................................................................................9 1.6.5 Raw materials ...............................................................................................................................................................10 1.6.6 Tools of production .....................................................................................................................................................10 1.6.7 Cordage ..........................................................................................................................................................................11 1.6.8 Netting ...........................................................................................................................................................................12 1.6.9 Basketry .........................................................................................................................................................................12 1.6.10 Matting ........................................................................................................................................................................13 1.6.11 Yarn directionality and technological changes in production ...........................................................................13 1.6.12 Clothing and footwear ..............................................................................................................................................13 1.6.13 Fabrics and textiles ....................................................................................................................................................13 1.6.14 Southern Levant, attire, fabrics, textiles and representations ...........................................................................14 Chapter 2 Natufian 2.1 Cultural overview: settlement pattern, economy, technology and symbolic world ..................................................15 2.2 Cordage ...................................................................................................................................................................................17 2.2.1 Cordage in subsistence ...............................................................................................................................................17 2.2.2 Cordage in ideology .....................................................................................................................................................19 2.3 Netting ....................................................................................................................................................................................19 2.3.1 Fish nets ........................................................................................................................................................................19 2.3.2 Fowling ..........................................................................................................................................................................20 2.3.3 Netting mammals ........................................................................................................................................................21 2.3.4 Carrying nets ................................................................................................................................................................21 2.4 Basketry ..................................................................................................................................................................................21 2.4.1 Basketry in the economy ............................................................................................................................................21 2.5 Ornamentation and wear .....................................................................................................................................................24 2.5.1 Beads and pendants .....................................................................................................................................................25 2.5.2 Apparel ..........................................................................................................................................................................26 2.6 Bone tool repertoire .............................................................................................................................................................28 2.6.1 Craft tools ......................................................................................................................................................................29 2.7 Discussion and conclusions .................................................................................................................................................31 i Chapter 3 The Pre-pottery Neolithic A (PPNA) 3.1 Cultural overview: settlement pattern, economy, technology and symbolic world ..................................................33 3.2 Cordage ...................................................................................................................................................................................35