*TM 4-42.21 TM 4-42.21 (FM 10-16 ) General Fabric Repair July 2013 Publication of TM 4-42.21, 24 July 2013, supersedes FM 10-16, General Fabric Repair, 24 May 2000. This special conversion to the TM publishing medium/nomenclature has been accomplished to comply with TRADOC doctrine restructuring requirements. The title and content of TM 4-42.21 is identical to that of the superseded FM 10-16. This special conversion does not integrate any changes in Army doctrine since 24 May 2000 and does not alter the publication’s original references; therefore, some sources cited in this TM may no longer be current. For the status of official Department of the Army (DA) publications, consult DA Pam 25-30, Consolidated Index of Army Publications and Blank Forms, at http://armypubs.army.mil/2530.html. DA Pam 25-30 is updated as new and revised publications, as well as changes to publications are published. For the content/availability of specific subject matter, contact the appropriate proponent. DISTRIBUTION RESTRICTION. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited Headquarters Department of the Army This publication is available at Army Knowledge Online (https://armypubs.us.army.mil/doctrine/index.html). To receive publishing updates, please subscribe at http://www.apd.army.mil/AdminPubs/new_subscribe.asp. *TM 4-42.21 Technical Manual Headquarters No. 4-42.21 (FM 10-16) Department of the Army Washington, DC, 24 July 2013 General Fabric Repair Contents Page PREFACE............................................................................................................... x Chapter 1 INSPECTING AND MARKING CLOTHING AND TEXTILE ITEMS .................. 1-1 Section I – Initial Inspections .......................................................................... 1-1 Section Ii – Final Inspections .......................................................................... 1-2 Chapter 2 HAND SEWING ON CLOTHING AND TEXTILES ............................................ 2-1 Section I – Hand Sewing .................................................................................. 2-1 Section II – Tools .............................................................................................. 2-1 Shears or Craftman’s Knife ................................................................................ 2-1 Pins, Needles, and Thimbles .............................................................................. 2-1 Thread ................................................................................................................ 2-1 Ruler or Measuring Tape .................................................................................... 2-1 Tailor’s Clay Chalk .............................................................................................. 2-1 Iron ...................................................................................................................... 2-3 Buttonhole Cutter ................................................................................................ 2-3 Section III – Preparation of Needle and Thread ............................................. 2-3 Section IV – Hand Stitches .............................................................................. 2-4 Basting Stitch ...................................................................................................... 2-4 Felling Stitch (Vertical Hemming) or Overhand Stitch) ....................................... 2-5 Cross Stitch (Catch Stitch) ................................................................................. 2-6 Stoating Stitch .................................................................................................... 2-6 Whipstitch (Slant Hemming or Overcast Stitch) ................................................. 2-7 Buttonhole Stitch ................................................................................................ 2-8 Chapter 3 MACHINE SEWING ON CLOTHING AND TEXTILES ...................................... 3-1 Section I – Machine Sewing ............................................................................ 3-1 Section II – Sewing Machines ......................................................................... 3-1 Needles ............................................................................................................... 3-2 Thread ................................................................................................................ 3-2 Stitch Length ....................................................................................................... 3-3 Pressure ............................................................................................................. 3-4 Tension ............................................................................................................... 3-4 Distribution Restriction: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. *This publication supersedes FM 10-16, 24 May 2000. i Contents Section III – Tacking ......................................................................................... 3-5 Machine without a Reverse ................................................................................. 3-5 Machine with a Reverse ...................................................................................... 3-6 Section IV – Characteristics of Good Seams ................................................. 3-6 Section V – Types of Seams ............................................................................ 3-7 Plain or Simple .................................................................................................... 3-7 Seam Type 1 ....................................................................................................... 3-7 Seam Type 2 ....................................................................................................... 3-8 Seam Type 3 ....................................................................................................... 3-9 Seam Type 4 ..................................................................................................... 3-10 Seam Type 5 ..................................................................................................... 3-12 Seam Type 6 ..................................................................................................... 3-12 Chapter 4 REPAIRING CLOTHING AND TEXTILE ITEMS ............................................... 4-1 Section I – Preparing Supplies and Equipment ............................................. 4-1 Section II – Darning........................................................................................... 4-1 Circular Darn ....................................................................................................... 4-1 One-Way Darn .................................................................................................... 4-2 Zigzag Darn ......................................................................................................... 4-3 Reinforced Darn .................................................................................................. 4-4 Section III – Patching ........................................................................................ 4-5 Simple Clothing Patch ......................................................................................... 4-5 Set-In Patch ........................................................................................................ 4-6 T-Patch ................................................................................................................ 4-7 Iron-On Patch ...................................................................................................... 4-8 Iron-On Patches of Garments ............................................................................. 4-9 Section IV – Replacing Buttons ....................................................................... 4-9 General Directions ............................................................................................ 4-10 Directions for Attaching Sew-Through Buttons ................................................. 4-11 Directions for Attaching Shank Buttons ............................................................ 4-11 Section V – Remaking Buttonholes .............................................................. 4-12 Section VI – Replacing Zippers ..................................................................... 4-12 Replacing A Nonseparating Zipper in Trousers ................................................ 4-13 Replacing a Separating Zipper in Jacket .......................................................... 4-14 Section VII – Replacing Hook and Pile Fastener ......................................... 4-15 Section VIII – Replacing Drawstrings............................................................ 4-15 Section IX – Replacing Buckles ..................................................................... 4-16 Section X – Repairing or Replacing Eyelets ................................................ 4-17 Repairing Stitched Eyelets ................................................................................ 4-17 Replacing Metal Eyelets ................................................................................... 4-18 Section XI – Replacing Snap Fasteners........................................................ 4-19 Section XII – Stitching Bindings .................................................................... 4-21 Section XIII – Repairing Open Seams ..........................................................