Copyright Undertaking This thesis is protected by copyright, with all rights reserved. By reading and using the thesis, the reader understands and agrees to the following terms: 1. The reader will abide by the rules and legal ordinances governing copyright regarding the use of the thesis. 2. The reader will use the thesis for the purpose of research or private study only and not for distribution or further reproduction or any other purpose. 3. The reader agrees to indemnify and hold the University harmless from and against any loss, damage, cost, liability or expenses arising from copyright infringement or unauthorized usage. IMPORTANT If you have reasons to believe that any materials in this thesis are deemed not suitable to be distributed in this form, or a copyright owner having difficulty with the material being included in our database, please contact [email protected] providing details. The Library will look into your claim and consider taking remedial action upon receipt of the written requests. Pao Yue-kong Library, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong http://www.lib.polyu.edu.hk BIOFUNCTIONAL ENGINEERING OF SEAMLESS SPORTSWEAR ZHOU JINYUN Ph.D The Hong Kong Polytechnic University 2013 THE HONG KONG POLYTECHNIC UNIVERSITY INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES AND CLOTHING BIOFUNCTIONAL ENGINEERING OF SEAMLESS SPORTSWEAR Zhou JinYun A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy January 2013 CERTIFICATE OF ORIGINALITY I hereby declare that this thesis is my own work and that, to the best of my knowledge and belief, it reproduces no material previously published or written, nor material that has been accepted for the award of any other degree or diploma, except where due acknowledgement has been made in the text. (Signed) Zhou JinYun (Name of student) I TO MY FAMILY For their constant love, support and encouragement II ABSTRACT This research aims to develop sound scientific understanding and engineering principles for designing and engineering novel seamless sportswear. Based on investigating the characteristics and mechanisms of heat and moisture transfer and tensile behavior of elastic knitted fabrics, innovative fabric structures have been developed to enhance thermal physiological performance and to satisfy the biomechanical requirements of sportswear. A systematic engineering methodology for sportswear design and fabrication has been established by integrating appropriate textile materials, innovative knitted structures and body mapping design concept through advanced seamless knitting technology. In stage of fabric engineering, biofunctional properties of elastic knitted fabric were investigated, including thermal and moisture transport properties, static and dynamic tensile behaviors together with the development of key engineering factors in manufacturing sports articles when incorporating various materials and structures. To achieve the thermal functional design of sportswear, heat and moisture transfer properties of elastic knitted fabric were investigated for different structures under different stretch levels. By the inspiration of garment stretch and recovery during activities, smart water pumping fabrics were invented with development of novel test method to measure their dynamic liquid water transfer behaviour that is critical for thermal physiological performance of sportswear. To achieve biomechanical functions, static and dynamic tensile behaviours of elastic knitted fabric were studied. Firstly, fabric elastic modulus and Poisson ratio were studied theoretically and experimentally by developing new testing method and investigating the influence of knitting engineering parameters such as loop length III and spandex yarn input tension. Based on the research of loop configuration and deformation mechanism, fabrics with sectional elastic modulus were developed for the compression or injury prevention. Secondly, viscoelastic behaviors of elastic knitted fabric were investigated experimentally and theoretically by cyclic loading tests and by developing new linear elastic model. Indexes of relaxation (R), inverse relaxation (IR), hysteresis (H) and work recovery efficient (RE) were defined based on obtained load/time and load/elongation curves. Influence of knitting engineering factors on abovementioned indexes was further studied by conducting full factorial experiments to optimize the engineering parameters. Phenomenon of inverse relaxation (IR) under cyclic load condition was discovered with development of theoretical model to explain the mechanisms involved. In the stage of garment engineering, a theoretical framework for the biofunctional engineering of seamless sportswear has been developed to guide the design and fabrication process with systematic integration of functional and aesthetic design with seamless knitting technology. To fulfill the multi-functional requirements and avoid the distributed bulk seams on sportswear which were resulted in by cut and sewn approach of traditional garment making process, seamless knitting technology was applied to overcome such limitations. Based on the comprehensive understanding of seamless knitting technique, various fabric structures were developed by overcoming the difficulties and limitation of combining different stitches onto one piece of garment with utilization of CAD and CAM systems. A number of prototypes of sportswear were fabricated and used to support Hong Kong Elite athletes from 2008 to 2012 with excellent feedbacks. IV List of Publications Arising from the Thesis Refereed Journal Article: JinYun Zhou, Yi Li, Jimmy Lam, Xu-Yong Cao. The Poisson Ratio and Modulus of Elastic Knitted Fabrics Textile Research Journal, November 2010; vol. 80, 18: pp. 1965-1969. Conference Presentations and Publications： 1. Jinyun Zhou, Jimmy K.C. Lam. Principle and Development on 3-D Knitted Fabrics, A Knitter‘s Perspective. The 1st World Conference on 3D Fabrics and its Application, 10-11 April, 2008 Manchester, U.K. 2. Jimmy K.C. Lam, Jinyun Zhou. Digital Knitting, a New Perspective for Knitting Industry. Autex World Conference, 2009, May 26-28, 2009 Izmir, Turkey. 3. Jinyun Zhou, Yi Li, Xu-Yong Cao, Measurement of Poisson‘s Ratio of Elastic Knitted Fabric. Textile Bioengineering and Informatics Symposium 2009. July 26-29, 2009, Hong Kong, P. R. China. Patents: 1. Y. Li, L. Yao; S. Sun, J.Y Zhou, J. Y Hu, Y. J. Wang, X. Y Cao, J. Jiao, K. W Lau, High Performance Running Wear, China Patent Office, Filing date: 14 Oct 2010, RIP-25A, Filing number 201010507140.X. 2. Y. Li; L. Yao; J. Luo, Y.P Guo, J.Y Zhou, J. Y Hu; H. Cao; Y. J. Wang; X. Y Cao; High Performance Cycling Wear, China Patent Office, Filing date: 22 Oct 2010, RIP-31A，Filing number 201010255317.1. V 3. Y. Li; Zhou jinyun, Cao Xuyong, Hu Junyan, Yao Lei. 具有分段变形模量及强 力的柔性材料设计原理及其制作方法，Filing Number: 201210378062.7, Filing Date: 2012-10-08 4. Y. Li; Zhou jinyun, Cao Xuyong, Hu Junyan, Yao Lei. 具有吸附及转移功能的 多孔材料的设计原理及其制作方法，Filing Number: 201210378024.1, Filing Date: 2012-10-08 Honours and Awards: Li Yi, Yao Lei, Sun Su, Zhou jinyun, Hu junyan, Wang Yongjing, Cao Xuyong, Jiao Jiao, Lau Kawai. China‘s Most Successful Design Awards, 2011. VI ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The completion of this thesis would not have been possible without the support and assistance of many others. I would like to take this opportunity to express my gratitude. First and foremost, I would like to express my sincere thanks and profound gratitude to my Chief-Supervisor Prof. Yi Li, Co-Supervisor Dr. Lam Kwok Cheong and Co- Supervisor Dr. GOHEL Mayur Danny Indulal for their patience and guidance throughout my research studies. My Ph.D. studies would have never been completed without their supervision. Their immense enthusiasm for research is greatly appreciated. Their professional advice and plentiful experience helped me to further improve myself. Last but not least, I give my most particular thanks and affection to my wife for her constant and continuous support and understanding. VII TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT ........................................................................................................................... III TABLE OF CONTENTS .................................................................................................... VIII LIST OF FIGURES ............................................................................................................ XIII LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................................... XVIII CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................. 1 1.1 Research Scope .............................................................................................................. 1 1.2 Research Aim and Objectives ........................................................................................ 2 1.3 Research Methodology .................................................................................................. 3 1.3.1 Stage 1 — General consideration of BSS design .................................................... 3 1.3.2 Stage 2 — Thermal physiological function engineering ......................................... 4 1.3.3 Stage 3 — Biomechanical function engineering ..................................................... 5 1.3.4 Stage 4 — Realization of biofunctional seamless sportswear................................. 6 1.3.5 Stage 5 — Summary ..............................................................................................