Factors fnfluencing Current Fabric Hood Production in Eskimo Point, Northwest Territories. By @ Sheri McBride A thesis presented to the University of Manitoba in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Master of Science in the Department of Clothing and Textiles lfinnipeg, l"lanitoba 1988 Pernissíon Ïras been granted L'autorieation a êté accordée to the National Library of å la Bibliothèque nationale Canada to microfiln this du Canada de nicrofilner thesis and to lend or sell cette thèse et de prêter ou copÍes of the film. de vendre des exemplaires du tI.Im. The author (copyright owner) r,'auteur ( titulaire du droit has reaerved other do auteur) ae rêserve les publication ríghtsu and autres droits de publicationt nei ther the thes i s nor nl Ia thèse ni de longs extensive extracts from ít extraits de cell-e-ci ne may be printed or otherwise doivent être inprimêe ou reproduced without his/her autrement reprodults sana aon writ.ten permieeion. autorlsatlon êcriteo rsBN 0-315- 4798L-7 FACTORS INFLUENCING CURRENT FABRIC HOOD PRODUCTION IN ESKTMO POrNT, NWT BY SHERI I'IcBRIDE A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Craduate Studies of the University of Manitoba in partial fulfillment of the requirenrents of the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE o 1988 Pernrission has been grarrted ro the LIBRARY OF THE UNIVER- SITY OF MANITOBA to lend or sell copies of this thesis. to the NATIONAL LIBRARY OF CANADA to microfilnr this thesis and to lend or sell copies of the film, and UNIVERSITY IvIICROFILMS to publish an abstract of this thesis. The author reseryes other publicatiolr rights, a¡ld neither the thesis nor extensive extracts from it may be printed or other- wise reproduced without the author's writteu pernrissiou. FACTORS INFLUENCTNG CURRENT FABRIC HOOD PRODUCTION rN ESKTMO POTNT, NORTIIhIEST TERRTTORTES. ABSTRACT The purpose of this study was to analyze the current fabric hood production in Eskimo Point, Northwest Territories. This analysis provided a comprehènsive data base to determine if designs historically associated with other Arctic regions were currently being worn in Eskimo Point. Explanations for adoption of these designs were made. Data were collected from archival and museum sourcest and two months field research in Eskimo Point' in the spring of 1987. The field research procedures used were participation,/observation in hood and beadwork constructiont and unstructured interviews with residents. Quantitative and qualitative analysis of data revealed traditionally styled Caribou Inuit male and female hoods characteristic to the Eskimo Point area were v¡ornr âS well as two amautik hoods conmon to the Eastern Arcticr and two contemporary designed parka hoods. The designs historically associated with Eskimo Point were not as popular with the residents as were the design introduced from other areas. Conversations with the Eskimo Point residents suggested physical and social reasons for the diversity in designs. Significant factors were; the ease of transportation and communication of ideas and people; adoption of fabric to traditional skin designsi personal motivation to be fashion- able, the increased practicality of new designs and selective adoption of non-Inuit culture. These factors were aLso found to influence the adoption of other design features. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This thesis was writÈen for the people of Eskino Point. Their enthusiasm and support for my study made my stay in the community enjoyable and productive. f would like to thank the residents of Eskimo Pointr âDd in particular Mayor Mark Kalluak and the Hamlet Council, for all their heIp. Many vromen were gracious enough to share their knowledge and skills with me. f am grateful to the following women of Eskino Point; Angie Eetak, Ùlary Kalluak, Agnes Mamgark, Elizabee lt{uckpah, Annie Napayok, Annie Seewoe. I would also like to thank the Aulajuts for weLcoming me into their family and the Kaviork family for their help and friendship. I wish to thank Dr. J. Oakes for developing ny interest in fnuit clothing and am appreciative of her enthusiastic sup- port of my research. f am grateful to ny friends and colleagues cecile clayton-Guthro, Lisa Patterson and rain Lunn for their listening ears and moral support. In particular, f would like to thank my parents for their continuous guidance, support and encouragement throughout my studies. Financial assistance received from the Northern Studies Cornmittee, University of lÍanitoba and the province of Manitoba Career Start Program are gratefully acknowledged. CONTENTS PAGE ABSTRACT 2 ACKNOWLEGEI,lENTS 1. INTRODUCTION 1 1.1 Objectives 3 I.2 Justifications 3 1.3 Operational Definitions 6 2. LTTERATURE REVTElV 9 2.1 Historical Overview 9 2.2 Physical Geography t4 2.3 Caribou Inuit Culture T7 2.4 Paallirniut Clothing 24 2.4.I Design 24 2.4.2 Clothing Function 33 2.4.3 Contemporary Clothing 35 2.4.4 Ornamentation 39 3. RESEARCH METHODOTOGY 44 3.1 Research Objectives 44 3.2 Research Postulates 44 3.3 Research Design 44 3.4 Library, l,luseum and Archival Research 45 3.5 Field Research 46 3.5.1 Sample 47 3.5.2 Data Collection 47 3.5.3 Data Recording 48 3.6 Data Sheet Development 49 3.7 Remuneration 51 4. RESEARCH FINDINGS 52 4 .1 llood Design 53 4.2 Hood Identification 6s 4.3 Hood Function 69 4.4 Hood Materials 70 4.5 Hood Formation 74 4.6 Hood Decoration 77 4.6.r Beadwork 77 4.6.2 Tape and fabric 80 4.6.3 Miscellaneous materials 82 5. DISCUSSION OF POSTULATES 84 5.1 Postulate One 84 5.2 Postulate Two 84 5.3 Postulate Three 87 5.4 Postulate Four 88 6. CONCLUSIONS 93 APPENDIX 1. 96 APPENDTX 2. 98 APPENDIX 3. 99 APPENDIX 4. 100 REFERENCES 101 ILLUSTRATIONS Paqe Figures 1. Parts of Hood 2. l'lap of Canada showing location of Barren Groundsr Caribou Inuit and Eskimo Point. 15 3. Caribou fnuit Territories, 1890 19 4. Paallirmiut Amautik 26 tr Paallirmiut Amautik Hood 28 6. llluseum Sample of Paallirmiut Anautik Hood 30 7. Paallirniut Beaded Parka 32 8. Paallirmiut Parka Hood 34 o Pullover Parka 37 10. Peaked Parka Hood 38 11. Beaded Paallirmiut tunautik 41 12. Beaded Paallirniut Parka 42 13. Eood Styles Common to Eskino Point 50 14. Hood Type A 55 15. Hood Type B 56 16. Hood Type C 58 17. Jackets Attached to Hood Type C (a&b) 59 18. Hood Type D 60 19. Hood Type E 62 20. Hood Type F 63 2L. Jackets Attached to Hood Types F&G 64 22. Hood Type G 66 23. Beadwork on Paallirmiut Amautik Hood 79 TABLES Paqe I. Number of Eood Designs Used By 22 Seamstresses in Eskino Point 53 2. Number of Parka Hood Designs According to Age & Sex. 67 3. Type of Fabrics Documented in Garmentrs Outer Layer 72 4. Type of Fabrics Documented in Garmentrs Inner Layer 72 5. Number of Fur Types Document,ed on Hood Designs 82 10 Chapter 1 Introduction The Arctic is one of the harshest environments in the world. To survive the severe conditionsr the Canadian Inuit utilized available resources and developed distinctivê forms of fur clothing. All traditional Inuit clothing consisÈed of several conmon components: bootsr slippers, pants, hooded jacket and miÈtens. The clothing designs varied in each Arctic region due to available resources, environmental conditions, and locaI sewing preferences. Variations in cut and decoration of key design features, such as the hood, hemline and shoulders, enabled one to identify the region and cultural group from which the garment came. The hood was one design feature which helped identify a distinct society of Inuit at Eskimo Point (Birket-Smith 1929 | 118). The community was established in the early 1900s on the west coast of Hudson Bay by an Inuit group caIIed Paallirmiut- a subgroup of the Caribou Inuit. The female parka had a long voluminous hood that feIl to below her but- tocks when down and fell onto her shoulders when pulled up over her head. The male parka was round with a sharp peak at the back and was fitted closely to the head. Traditionally, the hood design, in conjunction with other clothing design and decoration variations helped identify the paaLrirmiut from other Caribou Inuit societies and other Inuit groups in ge.neraI. Today' changes can be found in the paallirniut cloth- ing. New technologies, social organizations and values introduced to the community have artered their material and social cuLture. The effects of these changes are reflected through variat,ions in the paallirmiut clothing and clothing needs One significant change is the adoption of fabric to traditional clothing designs. originallyr the paallirniut used caribou skins which in conjunction with the design, provided ptotection from the harsh Arctic erements. Hudson Bay sroop Journals document the introduction of fabric to the Arctic region as a trade iten in the early 1700s in exchange for furs and sea mammal products. Early photographs taken in the area indicate fabric was being used to construct an entire garment by the early 1900s (public Archives of Canada, Donald B. Marsh Collection, *I978-39). Another significant change to paallirmiut clothing is the adoption of design features characteristic to other Arctic regions and rnuit communities. Although regional variations have persisted in skin clothing, traditional clothing designs of fabric have been strongly influenced by the diffusion of regionally specific clothing design features. According to Driscoll (1981, 148) design features such as the hood, historically associated with other Arctic regions, have been introduced and adopted by the paallirmiut of Eskimo Point due to increased transportation and communication of people and ideas. By observing these changes through an analysis of current fabric hood production in Eskimo Pointr a better understanding of changes to Inuit culture can be made.