THREE VISITS TO Al\IERICA Edinburg/,: I'rinted by Thomas and Archibald Constable FOR DA V!D DOUGLAt\. LONJJON • HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. CAMBRIDGR. )JAC'MlLLAN AND BOWES. GT.ASGOW. ,TAMF.~ MACLF.HOSE AND SONS. Three Visits to America BY EMILY FAITHFULL vVhere'er a human heart dotli wear Joy's myrtle-wreat!, or sorrow's ,,")'ves, Where'er a human spirit strives After a life more true and fair, Tlure is the true man's birthplace grand, His is a world-widefatlurland. ]AMES RUSSELL LOWEI.L. EDINBURGH DAVID DOUGLAS, CASTLE STREET I.All rights rese,·ved.J ·([ bi S3 Vllo l um r IS AFFECT!Oi\'.\TELY INSCRIBED TO MY FRIEND RICHARD PEACOCK, ESQ. OF GORTON HALL, LANCASHIRE IN RE!IIE~IBRAi\'CE OF THE UNVARYING KINDNESS RECEIVED FROM HIM AND HIS ~~AMIL\" PREFACE. IN compliance with the wishe:,; of many kind friends on both sides of the Atlantic, I have collected in this form various articles, contributed during my American tours, to the Victoria Jfogc1zine, Lady's Pictorial, Pall .Jfall Oa::ettc, and other English ,md American newspapers; and I have taken the oppor­ tunity of adding many fresh records not hitherto published. I do not pretend to offer any new in­ formation about a country respecting which so much has been already written by abler pens than mine, but this addition to the international literature of the day may still perhaps prove acceptable, as " the point of view" taken differs from that of the ordinary traveller. Throughout my three visits I had one object Hpecially before me, namely, to supplement the ex­ perience gained during twenty years of practical work in England, in regard to the changed position of women in the nineteenth century, by ascertain­ ing how America is trying to solve the most delicate and difficult problem presented by modern civili­ sation. In the hope that the information thus viii PREFACE. obtained may prove useful, I venture to ofter this volume to the English and American public, and I sincerely trust that no comments in these pages upon political matters or social customs will prove offensive to a country which extended to me such generous hospitality, and for which I entertain a profound and affectionate respect. EMILY F AITHFULL. 19 LEARMONTH TERRACE, EDINBURGH, October 1st, 1884. (' 0 NT ENT N. CHAPTEP. I. P,\O'K First arrival in America-Welcome at i\Irs. Laura Uurtis Bullar<l's -A Pi·esidential campaign-Personal recollections of Horace Greeley-General politics-Disinclination of the best people to take part in them-Cincinnati riots in 1884, · l ( 'HAPTER 11. Reception at Steinway Hall-The Sorosis Club-1\lrs. Uroly-:\Iis8 Mary L . .Booth-Louise Chandler Moulton-Clergywomen-, Dr. :\lary Putnam-Jacobi-Harper's printing-office-River­ side Press at Cambridge, Mass. - ,v omen printers and the • Victoria Press-Queen Yictoria's views _on women'H spheres­ l\lr. ( Hadstone on monopolies-Messrs. Young, Ladd, & Coffin's manufactory of Lundborg's perfumes-Mrs. Stanton and Susan B. Anthony-Hon. Gerrit Smith at Peterboro-Winter travelling in America-Mrs. Parke Godwin aml an Art reception, CHAPTER III. The President at the White House-,v ashington etit1uette-Caste in America-Women Lobbyists~Women employed in the• Civil Sen•ice-Y erdict of General Si,inner on the female clerks -Lady John Manners and the English notion of thei_r social position-Draughtswomen in English Engineer offices-Con­ versation with Senator Sumner on Republicanism and English loyalty to Queen Victoria-Grace Greenwood, 31 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. PAGE Railroads, drawing-room cars, sleepers, and hotel cars-Cookery in restaurants, hotels, and private houses-Chicago-Mrs. Kate Doggett, Mrs. Fernando Jones, General Osborne-The Sol- diers' Home at Milwaukee-American affection for England, --l}i CHAPTER V. A visit to the University of Michigan-President Angel-Andrew White of Cornell-Professor Coit Tyler-Kansas State Uni­ versity-Chancellor Lippincott-Discussion about co-ednca­ tion-Columbia College-Rev. Dr. Dix and Professor Drisler -Consequences of higher education on health-Views of Frances Power Cob be, George MacDonald, Mrs.Joseph Choate, President Barnard-Rise and progress of the movement in Englan(l-Miss Dawes, the first Master of Arts in the London University-:\frs. Lucy Mitchell, ii() CHAPTER VI. Vassar College-Professor Maria Mitchell-President Caldwell­ Life of the students-Effect of study upon health-Improve­ ments in the direction of OLlt--door amusements between visits in 1873 and 1883-Riding, lawn-tennis, and boating-Wel­ lesley College and its fire-brigade manned by girls-Mill's Seminary, the Vassar of the Pacific coast-Miss Haskell at Godfrey-Payment of female teachers in public schools­ English Governesses-Colonel Higginson on the gross injus­ tice of the inequalities existing between the salaries of men and women teachers in the United States-Kate Field on the difficulties surrounding journalism-Anna Dickinson-The growing taste for 11lays vei-sus lectures, tiS CHAPTER VII. The Quaktr city-Changes in society-School of Young Lady Potters-New CentL1ry Club-The Mint, and women em­ ployed in it-Theatres and English artists-Silk culture­ Mr. George W. Childs, the Ledgn·, and his work-people­ Wootton-Original manuscripts and autographs-Walt Whit- CONTENTS. xi PACIIC man: his views on N,,w York, Boston, Washington, and tho West-Mrs. Hannah Smith and the Temperance ll 11i1J11- Coffee-houses, . 82 CHAPTER VIII. Boston : its east wind, culture, and English look-False accusa­ tion of "decadence," but gaps in the aristocracy of ldti,rs between first and second visits-Longfellow, James Fields, Professor Agassiz-Asthma and its remedies-John Greenleaf Whittier-Oliver Wendell Holmes-:\lr8. Julia Ward Howe and the New England ('lub-Victoria Discussion Society­ Evacuation Day in New York and Forefathers' Day in Boston -Re,·. Edward Everett Hale-Visit to the Bo8ton Univer­ sity with the DP.an and Mrs. Talbot-:\Iiss Peabody aud the Kindergarten-The Papyrus Club-Dr. Harriet Hunt-Tlw Bible and the Woman question, !Iii ( )HAPTER IX. English and American receptions contrasted-St. Louis- A 1,sence of gentlemen at afternoon receptions-Innovation at St. Lonie -:\Irs. Bigelow's "At home "-Dr. Sarah Hackett Stevenson of Chicago-lliinois women-Judge Bradwell and his lawyer wife-Dr. and :\Ire. Hoggan of Loudon-Incident during a railway journey-Charlotte Cushman on and off the stage­ Compared as a reader with Fanny Kemble-:\[r. Sothern an,l :\Iiss Cushman at a steamer banq nt,t--Tbe ruse t,, avoid speech-making-The model town of Pullman--<~ahoose tra­ velling in Wisconsin and Minnesota-Cincinnati during the flood of 1883-Governor XoyPs-:\fnrat Hal1<tead and Mr. Probasco, lO!J CHAPTEH X. Xew Y~ar·s Day [l>i84] in Colorado-The J{.o,,ky )JountaiDJJ­ Denver-Mrs. Olive Wrigbt-Greeley-.lialph Meeker­ Dynamit:,;, Agita~r&-Colorado Rprings-G,,n<:ral J'almcr'K enterpriae-Dr. 8olly-l'r1::1Jilleut Tenny'• picnic in January -Journey over the Rocky M(JllntaiDJ1, thmugh th,, Grau,} Cany,m of the Arkau.:.. , -- Salilla.- -:'>I ar,di all l'.u,, <; rm r, i >!(Ill -Aer,,..., i,be d-rt to Salt Lake ("it·:. I '.!I, xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XL PAGE Brigham Young and the "true inwardness of Mormonism "-In­ ducements to converts to emigrate to the "promised land" -Polygamy kept out of sight-Zion's poet-laureate, Eliza Snow-Mrs. Emmeline Wells, etc.-Mormon women and wives-The effects of polygamy-Sermons in the Tabernacle and Sunday evening ward meetings-Brigham Young and others on the "women's discontent "-Exclusion of unmarrierl women from the kingdom of heaven-Introduction of second wives-The effect of any lengthened visit to Salt Lake City -War between Mormons and Gentiles-Endowment House, with its religious dramas, baptisms, and sealings, 150 CHAPTER XII. The President's Secretary, Mr. George Reynolds-Mr. George Q. Cannon-A religious argument after the President's luncheon -The ox-team wagon journey across the plains-Mormon amusements, tlieatres, and dances-The effect of stage-plays on the plural wives-Captain Boyd on the Latter Day Saints -The Mormon Bible-The Doctrines and Covenants­ " Joseph the Seer's" revelations from the Lord to his wife Emma-The women's right to the franchise and their depri­ vation of dower-Accusations against the Gentiles-Mormon criminal statistics-The Salt Lake Tribune on "Gulled Eng­ lish travellers "-Celestial marriages and divorces-Governor Murray-Mrs. Paddick-The duty of Congress, 1i9 CHAPTER XIII. American hotel despotism: Hours for meals-The journey across the desert from Ogden-The disappearance of the Indians and buffaloes from the railroad tracks-The :flight of antelopes­ The Sierra-Nevada mountains-San Francisco-Palace Hotel -Bell-boys and hotel servants generally-Chinatown in its New-Year garb-Cable-cars-Drives to the Cliff House through the park and to the Presidio-Wooden houses-Fit-es and the Fit-e Brigade-Dr. Hardy's Foundling Hospital on Golden Gate A venue, . 200 CONTENTS. xiii CHAPTER XIV. PAOR Strange contrasts afforded-Drinking and total abstinence­ Divorces-Fast sets and earnest reform workers-Mrs. Sarah B. Cooper-Free Kindergartens-Mr. Tabor's Art Gallery­ Lotta Crabtree's fountain-The Baldwin Hotel-Mr. Highton -Silk culture-Efforts of Mrs. Hittell and the State Board -Prizes won at the Philadelphia Exhibition by Californian l::ulies for the best silk cocoons raised in the United States­ Commercial opportunities of San Francisco-The Immigration Association-Chinese labour question, 216 CHAPTER XV. Strawberries in February; roses and geraniums growing in the open air-New Orleans and Colorado and California contrasted -Oakland and the Ebell Society-Fresno-An exciting drive through the colonies-Miss Austin's vineyard-Mr. Miller of the Fresno Republican-Mr. A. B. Butler-Raisin-making­ The Eisen vineyard- Sampling Californian wines-Family Emigration and the kind of people wanted-Bee culture-An ostrich ranche, '.!34 CHAPTER XVI.