WeaveTech Archive 0105 From [email protected] Tue May 1 07:22:01 2001 Return-Path: [email protected] Received: from localhost (ralph@localhost [127.0.0.1]) by saturn.CS.Arizona.EDU (8.8.7/ 8.7.3) with ESMTP id HAA25762 for <ralph@localhost>; Tue, 1 May 2001 07:22:00 -0700 From: [email protected] Received: from bas by fetchmail-4.5.8 IMAP for <ralph/localhost> (single-drop); Tue, 01 May 2001 07:22:00 MST Received: from optima.CS.Arizona.EDU (optima.CS.Arizona.EDU [192.12.69.5]) by baskerville.CS.Arizona.EDU (8.11.1/8.11.1) with ESMTP id f41AWd309117 for <[email protected]>; Tue, 1 May 2001 03:32:39 -0700 (MST) Received: from outmta016.topica.com (outmta016.topica.com [206.132.75.233]) by optima.CS.Arizona.EDU (8.11.1/8.11.1) with SMTP id f41ASmc11483 for <[email protected]>; Tue, 1 May 2001 03:28:49 -0700 (MST) To: [email protected] Subject: Digest for [email protected], issue 775 Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 03:32:07 -0700 Message-ID: <[email protected]> X-Topica-Loop: 700002588 List-Help: <http://topica.com/lists/weavetech/> List-Unsubscribe: <mailto:[email protected]> List-Subscribe: <mailto:[email protected]> List-Archive: <http://topica.com/lists/weavetech/read> Status: R -- Topica Digest -- apologies By [email protected] Re:denting By [email protected] double width double weave auto advance problem By [email protected] Re: linen sett By [email protected] Re: double width double weave auto advance problem By [email protected] Re: linen sett By [email protected] Pattern and Loom By [email protected] ------------------------------------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:29:58 -0400 From: Ruth Blau <[email protected]> Subject: apologies I have been informed that the message I sent reposting Martha Hubbard's info on creating a cross on an AVL warping wheel came through to the list in html. I have to assume that this was the result of copying Martha's msg from the Topica website and pasting into my message. My mail reader is definitely set so that it doesn't send in html. My apologies to all for whom this created a bunch of garbage. Ruth - 1 - WeaveTech Archive 0105 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:31:48 -0400 From: Barbara Nathans <[email protected]> Subject: Re:denting In relation to Amanda's question about linen, I wonder if there are some specific experiences with denting and reed marks. I've discovered that I ordered my fine reeds too long to fit my beater ( trying to get every last centimeter out of loom width), and wound up denting 10/2 mercerized cotton 4/ in a 6 dent reed, with much scepticism before I ordered another reed.. I'm copying Alice Schlein' s gorgeous turned twill tea towels, and the pattern falls nicely into the denting. The reed marks washed out of the twill part of my sample : the plain weave, I'm not so sure, so I won't use any plain on these. I much prefer to use larger spaced reeds--it's easier to see, and puts less wear on some yarns. Any advice on this general topic? I've read Fannin's general comments. Barbara Nathans Bellport, Long Island, New York ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:03:12 -0700 From: Rosemarie Dion <[email protected]> Subject: double width double weave auto advance problem Hello fellow weavers, Once again I come to you for an answer to my dwdw problems. I believe I have mastered the fold problem, now I am ready to do a larger piece and can't get my auto advance to work properly. Because I am doing the double width the advance leaves a streak, I have tried various wheels, different settings etc. following all the rules for normal auto advance procedures (I never had this problem with regular weaving). Have any of you had this problem when you wove dwdw? What did you do to solve it? Must I forgo using the auto advance? Blankets are such large projects I would like the security of a steady automated beat. 60 in AVL production compu-dobby loom, 16 shafts (all in use for this twill double width double weave design). 20 epi (10 epi per layer), 4/2 cotton warp, same thickness wool weft. Thank you, Rosemarie in San Diego ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:14:42 -0700 From: Alcorn <[email protected]> Subject: Re: linen sett >Any suggestions from those of you who have woven with this size linen? I have woven with 60/2 and 80/2 linen and had no reed marks. No matter what the size of any warp you should ALWAYS do a wrap around a ruler to determine the grist and then the sett. {Even yarns of the same size can wrap differently.} I use the formula towards the back of Zetterstrom's, "Manual of Swedish Handweaving." Seeing as huck should be sett towards the looser side of plain weave, I would say that 48 epi is much too tight. - 2 - WeaveTech Archive 0105 Use some of your warp yarn to determine the proper sett and then resley. It won't matter that much if the width in the reed doesn't match the width on the warp beam. When I am weaving linen I try to have just two ends per dent and have never fretted about splitting a huck motif. You probably dont have an 18 dent reed to give the two ends per dent, so try to sley evenly at say 3 epi in a 12 dent reed. Francie Alcorn ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:16:21 -0400 From: "55wmt" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: double width double weave auto advance problem Rosemarie, Try this: tie a string to the upper hook of the auto advance; beat one layer using the auto adv. then throw the other pick and before you beat pull the string to lift the hook so that the auto adv. won't advance. This comes in handy for overshot, too. Angie Rockett, Manchester, CT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rosemarie Dion" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 11:03 AM Subject: double width double weave auto advance problem > Hello fellow weavers, > Once again I come to you for an answer to my dwdw problems. I believe I > have mastered the fold problem, now I am ready to do a larger piece and > can't get my auto advance to work properly. Because I am doing the > double width the advance leaves a streak, I have tried various wheels, > different settings etc. following all the rules for normal auto advance > procedures (I never had this problem with regular weaving). Have any of > you had this problem when you wove dwdw? What did you do to solve it? > Must I forgo using the auto advance? Blankets are such large projects I > would like the security of a steady automated beat. > > 60 in AVL production compu-dobby loom, 16 shafts (all in use for this > twill double width double weave design). 20 epi (10 epi per layer), 4/2 > cotton warp, same thickness wool weft. > > Thank you, > Rosemarie in San Diego > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 11:34:06 -0700 From: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: linen sett > But the master spreadsheet indicates that good setts for this > yarn are 36/40/48 I checked and yes indeed it does! Then I checked using Ashenhurst which resulted in 29, 38, 49--reasonably consistent. (Sigh of relief--I was fearing that I'd mistyped something in the MOA spreadsheet.) - 3 - WeaveTech Archive 0105 So let's review the process. First we determine a yarn diameter . This can be done with reasonable accuracy by a calculation method (Ashenhurst is included in MOA spreadsheet--but there are others and ones more accurate(btw, 70/2 linen at 10,500 ypp provides a density of 94)). You can determine a less accurate (consistent) yarn diameter by wrapping. As the yarn flattens while wrapping, the number of threads in a given inch are fewer and this discrepancy needs to be taken into account when making further calculations such as sett (next paragraph), twist angle, etc. Sett is estimated by dividing the number of warp ends in a repeat of weave by the number of warp ends plus the number of weft intersections, then multiplying this by the yarn diameters in one inch. E.g., plain weave where Ashenhurst has determined 16 threads in an inch: 2/4 = 1/2 x 16 = 8 The number of warp ends in a repeat is 2, the number warp ends plus the number of weft intersections is 4 (2 + 2). Therefore the sett is 1/2 times the yarn diameter resulting in 8. Now the waffling comes in--if the yarn diameter is calculated using Ashenhurst, the formula provides a *maximum* sett, in other words stiff as a board. With Ashenhurst we must multiply the result (8 above) by a factor depending on the end purpose of the fabric (60-80% for clothing; 50-60% for scarves . .). If you use wrapping you'll have to do a more sampling as wrapping is subject to human vagaries. So back to your problem. The suggested setts of 36/40/48 (or are for loose, plain weave, twill (in that order). As I'd want huck in a loose structure I'd go for 36-38. Margaret ------------------------------------------------------------------- [email protected] Tucson, AZ USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:32:59 -0500 From: "Aaron and Carolyn Gritzmaker" <[email protected]> Subject: Pattern and Loom For anyone interested, there are two copies of Pattern and Loom by John Becker for sale on www.Bookfinder.com .