178 Art, 72 Bruno Acampora store in churches and cathe- (Naples), 72 Index drals, 18, 19, 33–34, Buses, 24, 57, 120, 136, 147, Index See also Accommoda- 38–41 166, 168 tions and Restaurant Museo Archeologico Business hours, 169 (Naples), 29–31 indexes, below. Museobottega della C Tarsialignea (Sor- Cacace Chapel (Naples), 35 A rento), 98, 127 Café Pansa (Amalfi), 102 Abbazia di San Michele Museo del Corallo (Rav- Cala del Pozzo Vecchio (Procida), 160 ello), 141 (Procida), 161 Air travel, 166 Museo di Capodimonte Campania Art Card, 15 Albergo dei Poveri (Naples), 21, 42–45 Campi Flegrei, 24–26 (Naples), 69 Stazioni dell’Arte Capodichino airport, 166 Al San Domingo (Ravello), (Naples), 53–54 Capo Miseno, 27 140 Associazione Alessandro Cappella del Crocifisso Amalfi, 102–103, 106, Scarlatti (Naples), 85 (Amalfi), 135 134–136 ATMs, 169 Cappella della Pietà dei Amalfi Coast, 4, 96–106, Atrani, 106, 136 Turchini (Naples), 84, 85 124–162 Cappella Piccolomini Capri, 144–149 B (Naples), 37 cities and islands, Bacoli, 27 Cappella Sansevero (Naples), 124–162 Baia, 25–26, 87 19–20, 39 favorite moments in, Baia di San Montano (Ischia), Capri, 99, 102, 106, 144–149 2, 4 153 Capri Town, 145 full-day tours, 96–106 Baptistery of San Giovanni in Caracciolo del Sole chapel history of, 173–175 Fonte (Naples), 34 (Naples), 33, 47 Ischia, 150–157 Bar Anna (Paestum), 120 Car hire, 169 Procida, 158–162 Bar Carlisle (Ischia), 151 Car rentals, 167–168 Ravello, 140–143 Bar Grottino (Procida), 161 Casa dei Cervi (Hercula- Sorrento, 124–129 Bar Risacca (Atrani), 136 neum), 115–116 between Sorrento and Bars, 21, 85, 86, 103, 119 Casa dei Vettii (Pompeii), 111 Salerno, 130–139 Bar Solfatara (Pozzuoli), 23 Casa del Atrio a Mosaico strategies for seeing, Basilica (Paestum), 121 (Herculaneum), 116 6–8 Basilica di San Paolo Mag- Casa del Bel Cortile (Hercula- Amusement park, 59 giore (Naples), 34 neum), 117 Anacapri, 99, 148 Basilica di Sant’Antonino Casa del Fauno (Pompeii), Anfiteatro (Paestum), 122 (Sorrento), 127 30, 111 Anfiteatro (Pompeii), Basilica di Santa Restituta Casa del Minandro (Pom- 112, 113 (Naples), 34, 49 peii), 112 Anfiteatro Flavio (Pozzuoli), Baths Casa del Poeta Tragico 24–25, 26 ancient, 110–112, (Pompeii), 111 Antiche Terme Comunali 116–117 Casa del Tremezzo di Legno (Ischia), 151 thermal, 4, 151, 152, 155 (Herculaneum), 116 Antiques, 72 Battistero di San Giovanni in Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite Apartment rentals, 169 Fonte (Naples), 48 (Herculaneum), 117 Aphrodite Apollon B&Bs, 91, 92, 94, 129 Casamicciola Terme (Ischia), (Sant’Angelo), 155 Belvedere Tragara (Capri), 152 Aquarium (Naples), 58, 59, 65 99, 146 Casa Rossa (Anacapri), 148 Archaeological Museum Berevino bar (Naples), 36, 85 Castel dell’Ovo (Naples), (Naples), 110 Bicycle rental, 159 65–66 Arco Naturale Walk (Capri), Blue Grotto (Anacapri), 99, Castello Aragonese (Ischia), COPYRIGHTED4, 102, 147, 149 148 MATERIAL25, 151–152, 154, 156 Area Archeologico di Santa Blue Ribbon road, 4, 128 Castello d’Avalos (Procida), Restituta (Ischia), 153 Boats, 7, 98, 133, 145, 155, 105, 159, 160 Area codes, 169 166, 167, 169 Castel Nuovo (Naples), 12 Around Midnight club Borgo Marinari (Naples), 66 Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples), (Naples), 86 Bosco di Capodimonte 14, 18 (Naples), 45 Catacombe di San Gaudioso Botanical gardens, 47, 68–69 (Naples), 54 Bourbon Street club Catacombe di San Gennaro (Naples), 84, 86 (Naples), 47, 54, 55 179 Cattedrale dell’Assunta Climate, 164, 165 Forio, 153–154 Index (Ischia), 152, 154 Collana pool (Naples), 84, 87 Forum (Paestum), 121 Cava Scura (Ischia), 155 Conca dei Marini, 102, 134 Frette (Naples), 73, 74 Cave of the Sibyl (Cuma), 27 Consulates, 170 Full-day tours Caves, 27, 133, 134, 148, 155 Corricella, 105, 160 one day in Naples, Centro Sub Campi Flegrei Corso Umberto (Forio), 153 10–15 (Naples), 84, 87 Cruise ships, 167 seven days on Amalfi Ceramics, 73, 74, 137 Cuisine, Italian, 8, 162 Coast, 100–103 Certosa di San Giacomo ten days on Amalfi (Capri), 99, 146 D Coast, 104–106 Certosa di San Martino Dance, 85, 86 three days in Naples, (Naples), 14, 18, 41, 59 Day trips, 108–122 22–27 Cetara, 103, 106, 136, 137 Herculaneum, 114–117 three days on Amalfi Chairlifts, 148 Paestum, 120–122 Coast, 96–99 Chapel of San Gennaro Pompeii, 108–113 two days in Naples, (Naples), 14 Vesuvius, 118–119 16–21 Chapel to St. Bruno and Decumani (Naples), 14, 60–63 Funicular rail, 18, 99, 145, 168 Giuseppe Sammartino Dining, 8, 76, 77. See also (Naples), 37 Restaurant Index G Chiaia, 84, 86, 160 Disney Store (Naples), 57, 58 Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos Children, activities for, Diving, 87 Stigliano (Naples), 49 56–59 Doll’s Hospital (Naples), Gardens, 47, 68–69, 128, in Amalfi, 102–103 57, 62 132, 142, 153 in Cetara, 136, 137 Driving, 7, 24, 98, 136, 147, Gay clubs, 84 in Chiaia, 160 166–167 Gelaterias, 12, 34, 54, 76, in Ciracciello, 161 Drugstores, 170 125, 128, 161 at Emerald Grotto, Duomo (Naples), 14, 34, 49 General Rentals (Procida), 133, 134 Duomo (Ravello), 103, 159 at Herculaneum, 97–98 140–141 Gesù Nuovo (Naples), 12–13, in Ischia, 105, 151–152 Duomo dei Santi Filippo e Gia- 36–37, 61 in Naples, 13–15, como (Sorrento), 98, 125 Giardini di Augusto (Capri), 18–20, 23–27, 47, Duomo di Sant’Andrea 146 52–54, 65–66 (Amalfi), 102, 135 GM Bar (Procida), 159 in Paestum, 106 Gran Caffè Aragonese in Pompeii, 101 E (Naples), 21 in Positano, 98–99, Edenlandia funfair Gran Caffè Gambrinus 102, 131 (Naples), 59 (Naples), 11, 67, 84 in Procida, 105 Ekklesiasterion (Paestum), Grotta Azzurra (Anacapri), in Sant’Angelo, 154, 155 121 99, 148 in Sorrento, 98, 101, Electricity, 170 Grotta dello Smeraldo, 102, 125, 128 Embassies, 170 133, 134 at Vesuvius, 97 Emerald Grotto, 133, 134 Grotta di Matermania (Capri), Chiostro del Paradiso Emergencies, 170 147 (Amalfi), 135 Enoteca delle Belledonne Guesthouses, 93 Chiostro del Paradiso bar (Naples), 84, 85 (Sorrento), 128 Erchie, 137 H Chiostro di San Gregorio Ercolano, 97. See also Herculaneum, 31, 105, Armeno (Naples), 48–49 Herculaneum 114–117 Christmas cribs, 3, 20, 57, Eruptions, of Vesuvius, 119 Hidden Naples, 46–49 62, 74 Holidays, 170 Churches, 32–37. See also Homewares, 73, 74 specific churches, e.g.: F Hospitals, 170 San Domenico Maggiore Faraglioni (Capri), 99, 146 Hotel-hopping, 8 (Naples) Fashion, 73 Hotels. See Lodging Church of Santo Stefano Fattoria del Casaro (Paestum), Hot springs, 4, 151, 152, 155 (Capri), 146 4, 122 House of the Deer (Hercula- Cimitero delle Fontanelle Ferries, 4, 23, 125, 159, 166, neum), 115–116 (Naples), 55 169 House of the Tragic Poet Ciracciello (Procida), 161, 162 Festival di Ravello, 134, 141 (Pompeii), 111 Città delle Scienze Festivals, 164–165 Hydrofoils, 99, 145, 166, 169 (Naples), 59 Food and drink, shopping Classical music, 85, 86 for, 73 180 I Marina Grande (Capri), 145, full-day tours, 10–27 Il Castello (Naples), 69 148 history of, 173–175 Il Fornillo beach (Positano), Marina Grande (Positano), 98 lodging in, 88–94. See Index 132 Marina Grande (Procida), also Accommoda- Il Foro (Pompeii), 110 105, 159 tions Index Il Torrione (Forio), 154 Marina Grande (Sorrento), nightlife, 82–87 Insurance, 170 98, 128 performing arts, 82–87 Intarsia, 37, 126, 127 Marina Piccolo (Capri), 147 shopping, 70–75 Internet, 170–171 Marina Piccolo (Sorrento), 125 special interest tours, Intra Moenia bar (Naples), Marinella (Naples), 70, 73 28–69 15, 84, 85 Maritime Museums strategies for seeing, Ischia, 4, 105, 150–157 (Naples), 59 6–8 Ischia Porto, 151 Markets, 19, 75 Napoli Sotteranea, 52–53, 63 Italian cuisine, 8, 162 Maxi Ho Spa Café (Naples), Nastro Azzurro, 4, 128 Italian language, 171, 84, 85 Nativity scenes, 18, 57, 59, 176–177 Mercatino di Antignano 74, 165 (Naples), 75 Nature reserve, 161 J Mercato Pignasecca Negombo (Ischia), 155 (Naples), 19, 70, 75 Newspapers, 171 Jazz, 86, 165 Metro del Mare, 136 Nightclubs, 86–87 Jewelry, 31, 74–75 Metronapoli, 168 Nightlife, 21, 82–87, 103, 119 Minori, 136, 165 K Money, 171 O Kinky club (Naples), 86–87 Monte di Pietà chapel Opera, 67, 85, 86 (Naples), 20–21, 62 Orto Botanico (Naples), L Monte Echia, 66 47, 68–69 La Caffettiera bar (Naples), 49 Monte Solaro, 99, 148, 154 Ospedale delle Bambole La Cantina di Triunfo bar Mozzarella di bufala, 4 (Naples), 57, 62 (Naples), 79–80 Museo Archeologico Osservatorio Vesuviano, 119 Lacco Ameno (Ischia), (Naples), 3, 15, 28–31, 117 152–153 Museo Archeologico dei P Lago di Averno, 26 Campi Flegrei (Baia), 25–26 Paestum, 4, 7, 106, 120–122 La Mortella (Ischia), 153 Museo Archeologico di Palatine Chapel (Naples), 11 Large Theater (Pompeii), 112 Pithecusae (Ischia), 153 Palazzo Correale (Sorrento), Largo Corpo di Napoli, 62 Museo Archeologico Nazio- 125 La Sfogliatella Mary nale di Paestum, 122 Palazzo dello Spanuolo (Naples), 39 Museobottega della Tar- (Naples), 47 Laundromats, 171 sialignea (Sorrento), Palazzo Filomarino La Zagra (Positano), 132 98, 127 (Naples), 61 Leather, 75 Museo Correale di Terranova Palazzo Murat (Positano), 132 Lodging, 88–90. See also (Sorrento), 98, 125 Palazzo Pomarici Santomasi Accommodations Index Museo d’Arte Contempora- (Sorrento), 127 Lost property, 171 nea Donna Regina Napoli Palazzo Reale (Naples), Lupanare (Pompeii), 112 (MADRe), 33, 40, 48 11, 66, 67 Museo del Corallo (Ravello), Palazzo Sangro (Naples), 62 141 M Palazzo Spinelli (Naples), 63 Museo della Carta (Amalfi), Madonna del Soccorso Palazzo Tufarelli (Naples), 61 102, 135 (Forio), 154 Palestra (Herculaneum), 116 Museo dell’Opera (Naples), 41 MADRe. See Museo d’Arte Pansa (Amalfi), 136 Museo dell’Osservatorio Contemporanea Donna Parco Archeologico Baia, 25 (Vesuvius), 118 Regina Napoli Parco Archeologico di Cuma, Museo di Capodimonte Magazines, 171 26–27 (Naples), 21, 41, 42–45 Maggio dei Monumenti, Parking, 172 Music, 72, 85, 86, 164–165 49, 164 Parks, 4, 45, 58, 65, 101, Mail, 171 102, 147, 149 Maiori, 103, 136 N Pastisseira Capriccio di Marechiaro, 78 Nabilah club (Naples), 84, 87 Salvatore Capparelli Marina di Equa, 101, 128 Naples (Naples), 34 Marina di Furore, 102, 133 dining in, 76–81.
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