John Moore, President 2010-2012 THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL Edited by MARTIN COOPER and ANDREW PAUL VOLUME XXVIII(3) No. 83 Published by THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 2012 © Fell & Rock Climbing Club of the English Lake District 2012 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced ortransmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechani- cal, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copy- right holder. Produced by the Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the English Lake District Limited. Industrial and Provident Societies Registration no: 30506R Typeset by Andrew Paul ISBN: 978-0-85028-053-1 Printed by Scotprint, Montgomery Litho Group, Edinburgh Bound by Hunter & Foulis, Montgomery Litho Group, Edinbugh Contents Editors’ Note LAKE DISTRICT /NORTHERN ENGLAND Making of a Photo Al Phizacklea 9 Letters to George Seatree Rev James Jackson 14 Gaps in the Curtain Stephen Reid 23 The Needle Climbed Rod Smith 37 You need a wine cork Ian Dobson 43 Centaur Ron Kenyon 46 They gave their lives Peter Smith 50 Crossing an arctic plateau Maureen Linton 54 Bob Graham Round Robert Cooper 58 Wendy Dodds Tony Peacock Phil Elliot Andrew Paul High tops of the English Counties Alan Hinks 75 SCOTLAND Grandad Knows Best Doug Elliott 80 Ice Age Ian Arnold 85 Point Five Gully John Hitch 90 Sea Kayaking from Waters Cottage Robin Ashcroft 94 Lure of Lists Karl Nelson 103 OVERSEAS Sail and Ski in Arctic Norway Bernard Smith 113 Ecuador Dan Hamer 119 The Frost Report Jim Gregson 137 Peru Jamie Goodheart 145 Stauning Alps Ron Kenyon 153 Terror Peak Tony Burnell 165 MOUNTAIN WRITING Le Cavalier Fou John Lagoe 171 Norman Nicholson Stuart Pickford 181 The Colder You Are Ellis Lader 187 Prelude William Wordsworth 191 New Climbs 195 In Memoriam 223 Book Reviews 257 Officers and Club Meets 281 Editors’ Note Two years have passed, and here again is a record of what some of our members have been up to over the intervening period. We have tried to reflect the truth that the club is a broad church, encompass- ing both fell walking on the one hand, and hard rock and ice climbing on the other, as well sub groups such as fell runners and, for the first time, kayakers. Also we have tried to balance articles which look back to our history with accounts of current activities. The winter of 2011-12 has been disappointing in comparison to the previous two, however the winter of 2010 to 2011 has extended its icy reach into the Journal and has contributed some wild looking routes. Also there have been an amazing number of new rock routes uncovered, not only in the upper grades, but also some quality routes which are within the reach of mere mortals. Our thanks in particu- lar to those who contributed the excellent photographs of these activities. Exploits abroad (if we include Scotland here!) cover earth (New Zealand), water (Scottish sea kayaking), ice (Greenland) and fire (Ecuador). The fire of the imagination is also catered for with words from the Lake District’s best known poet and an article about the poet who has claim to be considered the Lakes’ best poet of the twen- tieth century. We (well at least one of us!) would encourage the submission of poetry by our own members. The 2012 Journal contains a series of articles on the Bob Graham Round, prompted both by it being the 80th anniversary, in 2012, of the first round, and also by the death of Fred Rogerson, who for many years was an inspiration and support for many who attempted the round. Alternatively the articles included here may cause auto- matic rubbing and flexing of joints, and confirm to those who have decided that their time has gone by that the decision not to attempt the round was a wise one. As usual we offer our thanks to all those who have contributed, and our extend our invitation to contribute to the next one. We hope you find it a good read. Martin Cooper Andrew Paul 7 Wasdale Rainbow, 9th May 2011(Andrew Paul) Mickledore Moon Al Phizacklea n the course of writing the book about Scafell, I had the dream of Ifilling it with some unique photographs, shots of familiar routes taken from a new perspective; shots that demand attention. One photo I have admired for years, since it was published in the last Scafell guidebook, was Andy Rowell’s frontispiece, a shot of the sun slanting across the great face of Scafell, with minuscule climbers giving it a scale of grandiose proportions, complete with the moon rising in the pale blue sky behind. I remember it was a shot of oppor- tunity, taken on the way down after a long tiring day which consisted of one new route, one hard fall and an epic retrieval of gear at the crux. We had to remove the gear because it was on an unclimbed line, and we didn’t want this fact to be highlighted to any interested rival teams by a nut and a krab hanging in the middle of nowhere. This cautious covering of our tracks obviously worked, because the line is still unclimbed twenty years later! I love the stunning vertical aspect of Scafell crag as viewed from Mickledore. It is one of the most impressive features of an already impressive crag and one which is not apparent from the usual view- point from Hollowstones. Wouldn’t it be good to get a photograph of the moon rising above Mickledore with this vertical wall of rock in the foreground? The obvious place to get this photograph is from the top of the Shamrock, but this presents one particular problem. If you take a picture of the moon with an ordinary camera, actually I mean one with the regular wide angle lens, it always looks disap- pointingly small and insignificant. That result wouldn’t suffice – I wanted to see a big moon filling the gap of Mickledore; big, round and full. To get a ‘big’ moon on a photograph you have to zoom right into it with a large focal length lens - great for the moon, but you wouldn’t see anything of the crag from the top of the Shamrock, because you are too close to it from there. You have to step back a way to get the correct perspective between the moon and the surrounding crags, and when I say ‘a way’, I mean by a few kilome- tres. Shamrock lies directly west of Scafell Crag, it’s not something you notice or care to know unless you look at a large scale map. So 9 10 MICKLEDORE MOON I needed to move west from Mickledore, and a study of the map extends this line above the top of Black Crag, and beyond Wastwa- ter towards Middle Fell and Seatallan. A check of the trusty Wainwright confirmed that from the summit of Seatallan the crag of Scafell is indeed seen in vertical profile. This then is the sort of area I was looking for as a base to take my photograph. However, things are never as simple as that, because you have to ensure that the moon is rising directly over Mickledore, and that became the nub of my problem. I had observed over the years that the sun rises at mid-summer from a north easterly direction, and sets in the north west. In mid-winter, the sun rises in the south east direc- tion, and sets in the south west direction. Hence in mid-summer, the north facing Scafell Crag gets both the morning and evening sun on its face, and contrarily the reverse happens in winter, and the crag never gets any sun. The moon, however, rises and sets in the oppo- site phase to the sun. In winter, the moon rises in a north easterly direction and sets in the north west, so consequently it is higher and thus brighter in the sky in winter than it is in the summer. So there must be a middle ground somewhere when both the sun and moon rise in the east and set in the west. This is the equinox, when the daylight is equally divided into 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness, and this occurs each year on the 21st March and the 21st of September. So, by reasoning, to get a photograph of a full moon rising over Mickledore, I had to select the full moon nearest the equi- nox; and the next one was scheduled for the 19th March 2011. There is no alteration to this date; the moon completes one full orbit of the earth every 29.53 days, as it has done for millions of years. My plan was beginning to form. I didn’t want to take a photograph exactly on the full moon, because as the moon rises, the sun sets; and I would loose the lighting on the crags, making it a dull picture. So it had to be the 18th March for the photograph, which suited me perfectly, as that fell on a Friday and if I planned my flexitime correctly I could leave work at noon. I had months to wait, but I had marked this day in my diary to ensure that it wasn’t forgotten and over the preceding days the weather forecast looked favourable. Rain and cloud would obscure everything, and hazy conditions would result in a poor, flat picture.