226 Friesland (Fryslân) At first Friesland seems typically Dutch: it’s flat, it’s green and there are plenty of cows (the namesake Frisian black-and-white jobbies here). But explore a bit and you’ll find differences. Around the aquatic sports town of Sneek, you’ll wonder what’s this ‘Snit’ all about? Well, Snit is Frisian for Sneek. The province has its own language, and while you won’t encounter it widely, you will find it on road signs and other signage. Language is just one thing that sets Frisians apart. Even by Dutch standards, they’re a very self-reliant bunch. Here they didn’t just have to build dykes to protect their land, they had to build the land as well. North Friesland segues into the Waddenzee in such a subtle way that in the old days you could never be sure when you were on watery mud or muddy water. A mix of holiday homes, farms, mud and beaches, the islands and sea were recognised by Unesco in 2009. Self-reliant and stoic, the Frisians were integrated further into Dutch society in 1932 when the Afsluitdijk opened, closing the Zuiderzee. This provided better transport links to Amsterdam and the south but it also proved devastating for small fishing villages, which the found themselves living on a lake. Only now are places like Hindeloopen finding sure footing as tourist destinations. At the centre is Leeuwarden, the provincial capital and the sort of beguiling old Dutch town where you soon have a favourite cafe and you’ve lost track of the days. HIGHLIGHTS Explore the excellent museums and shady Schiermonnikoog back streets of Leeuwarden (p228) Ameland Terschelling Take to the water around Sneek ( p231 – whether it be fresh, salty, in it, or on it Kick back in Hindeloopen (p233 ), a coastal Vlieland town almost forgotten by time Leeuwarden Combine a cycling trip through sand dunes and farmland on Terschelling ( p236 ) and Sneek Ameland ( p237 ) Find your little piece of island solitude on Hindeloopen Vlieland ( p235 ) and Schiermonnikoog ( p237 ), which has a fine national park FRIESLAND (FRYSLÂN) lonelyplanet.com FRIESLAND (FRYSLÂN) •• History 227 0 20 km FRIESLAND 0 12 miles N O R T H S E A Schiermonnikoog Schiermonnikoog Schiermonnikoog Ameland National Park Nes Terschelling Hollum Lauwersoog Hoorn Oosterend HolwerdὈὈὈN358 West Terschelling Hogebeintum GRONINGEN Ferwerd Dokkum Oost Vlieland N357 N393 N356 Vlieland N355 Buitenpost N361 To Groningen Leeuwarden N355 (4km) etkanaal A31 gri Mar Franeker N358 Harlingen N31 FRIESLAND N359 N384 Drachten W a d d e n z e e A7 Bolsward N354 Grou E22 Texel Makkum N392 E22 Sneek A7 Afsluitdijk IJlst N380 A7 Workum N354 Heerenveen E22 N381 To Den Hindeloopen Helder (10km) Stavoren Sloten Wolvega To Groningen A32 (40km) NOORD N371 I J s s e l m e e r HOLLAND A6 Steenwijk Weerribben National Park N375 To Hoorn (8km); Giethoorn Amsterdam To Amsterdam To Zwolle (48km) Enkhuizen (80km) Ὀ(18km) Meppel A28 History themselves sitting beside a lake. Fortunately Having dredged their home out of the adversity brought a solution: rebrand the re- Waddenzee armload by armload, the Frisians gion as a holiday sailing mecca, which brings are no strangers to struggling with their natu- more and more people each summer. ral environment. Farming, fishing and nautical know-how Language (the building, repair and maintenance of Frisians speak Frisian, which is actually closer ships) have been the area’s principal activities (in some ways) to German and Old English FRIESLAND (FRYSLÂN) for centuries, and in the prerepublic era made than Dutch; there’s an old saying that goes ‘As Friesland one of the wealthiest regions in the milk is to cheese, are English and Frise’. The Netherlands. The Frisians became integrated majority of Frisians are, however, perfectly further into Dutch society – not entirely will- conversant in mainstream Dutch. ingly – in 1932 when the Afsluitdijk (Barrier Most people who have lived in the region Dyke; see boxed text, p169 ) opened, closing for a significant time will speak some Frisian, the Zuiderzee. This provided better links to although you’re more likely to hear Frisian Amsterdam and the south but was devastating coming from the mouths of older residents for small fishing villages, who suddenly found than younger people’s. Don’t worry if you .