Andrews University From the SelectedWorks of Keith Clouten 2002 South American Safari 2002.pdf Keith Clouten, Andrews University Available at: https://works.bepress.com/keith-clouten/27/ South American Safari June 24 – July 11, 2002 1 When the Association of Seventh-day Adventist Librarians (ASDAL) decided to hold their 22nd annual confer- ence in Argentina in June of 2002, they asked me to organize a tour of some South American countries following the conference. Since the touring librarians numbered less than twenty, we opened the tour to other participants. These “extras” would visit interesting places in central Argentina while librarians were attending the five- day conference at Universidad Adventista del Plata, 200 miles in- land from Buenos Aires. The total group numbered 36. Ngaire took charge of the non-librarians while I attended the conference. Time pressure prevented me from composing a diary-style report of the 17-day trip, so I’m much indebted to Darlene Puymon of Ber- rien Springs, Michigan, who participated on the trip with her hus- band, Roy, in the full tour and prepared an excellent and detailed write-up of each day’s events. The text that follows this introduc- tion is to a large extent an adaptation of Darlene’s story, and I use it with her kind permission. Travel to developing parts of the world can be a wonderful and illu- minating cultural experience. It does, however, sometimes come with unanticipated conditions that disrupt plans or create discom- fort. This is even more so if you are leading a group of people on a tour. We’ve learned to prepare for unexpected and sometimes un- comfortable circumstances. In the case of this South American Sa- fari, the unexpected began with economic and political problems at our first stop, Argentina. Keith Clouten April 2019 2 Argentina in Crisis We began the intensive planning for the tour during the summer of 2001 and circulated advertising. By De- cember, though, riots in Buenos Aires brought a U.S. State Department advisory against travel to Argentina. Fortunately, the travel advisory was lifted in January. The years 2000 through 2002 were not good times for the people of Argentina. The country had been hit by a severe financial depression which resulted in bankrupt corporations, high unemployment, bank closures, widespread riots, and the fall of the national government. At least half the country’s population was experi- encing poverty. The freeze on bank deposits enraged Argentinians, so frequent riots were taking place in the large Plaza de Mayo in central Buenos Aires. Argentina’s peso dropped quickly from parity with the United States dollar to a value of around 25 cents. All this raised doubts and added complexity to our tour planning. Fortunately, we were able to work with Top Dest, a long-established and respected in-bound operator for groups coming to Argentina. Arrival Our group arrived at Buenos Aires international air- port with Delta Airlines on Tuesday, June 24. The capital of Argentina is located on Rio de la Plata, a huge river estuary more than 30 miles wide, with Uruguay on the opposite, northern side. With a population of 14 million, Buenos Aires is South America’s third largest city. At the international air- port, we met our enthusiastic guide, Ignacio, and a comfortable charter bus. We enjoyed a brief city tour en route to our hotel. We did not miss the sight of prized pedigree dogs “baby sat” during the day by hired walkers in the park. They earn a living by watching up to ten at a time without tangling their leashes. The dogs are also allowed to run free since they are well trained. Hotel Nogaro is located in city center, less than ten minutes’ walk from the large and beautiful Plaza de Mayo with its pink palace. During a little free time in the afternoon, several explored the famous Flori- da pedestrian mall. I took advantage of the deflated peso by acquiring a nicely designed winter jacket for just $25. Tonight’s “Welcome Dinner” was the opportunity for everyone—librarians and tourists— to meet before each group went separate ways on The Pink Palace is the highlight of the Plaza de Mayo. Wednesday morning. Dog minders are a feature of Buenos Aires. 3 ASDAL Conference at Libertador San Martin The conference opened on Wednesday morning with a 30-minute session in a meeting room at our hotel. This permitted welcome speeches by guests representing the government of Argentina and the National Library. The bus ride to Libertador San Martin began with morning stops at a unique bookshop and the Na- tional Library, then a buffet-style lunch at the Adventist-run Granix Restaurant on Florida Street. Then a long five-hour ride to the very rural location of Argentina’s Adventist university in the western part of Entre Rios province. Librarians were accommodated there in several small hotels. Thursday, Friday, and Sunday were taken up with conference presentations and business sessions. Ngaire’s group arrived there on Friday evening and joined everyone for the morning Sabbath services and an after- noon tour to places associated with the beginnings of Seventh-day Adventism in South America. A banquet on Sunday evening brought conclusion to an excellent and well-attended library conference. Early depar- ture on Monday brought the librarians to Buenos Aires domestic airport for a noon flight with Aero Argentinas to Iguazu Falls at the Brazil border. Touring the Pampas with Ngaire On Wednesday this group experienced a sampling of life on the great fertile plains that roll westward to the foothills of the Andes. This was Argentina’s “wild west frontier”, reminiscent of colonial days in America. En route, the bus travelled a short section of the world’s longest highway—the Pan American Highway extends from southern Argentina all the way north to Fair- banks, Alaska. At Santa Susana Estancia near the town of Los Car- dales, the visitors watched gauchos (cowboys) per- form some amazing tricks on horseback. They ex- plored the historic ranch grounds, were served lunch, and watched a folkloric show that included demon- strations of the Tango. Upon return to Buenos Aires the bus driver was barricaded from the hotel’s en- trance because of demonstrations near the Presiden- tial Palace in Plaza de Mayo, so everyone was dropped around the corner. They learned next morning that a bridge on the Pan American Highway which they trav- elled that morning was blocked by protesters in the afternoon. Two men were killed, tear gas dispersed the crowds, thirty were arrested, and several injured. Thursday’s journey took the group into the large prov- ince of Entre Rios—literally, “between the rivers”. The Parana and Uruguay Rivers flow into the wide Rio de Santa Susana Estancia near Los Cardales, inland la Plata estuary. A tributary of the Parana plunges from Buenos Aires. over the famous Iguazu Falls which we will see. 4 Argentina Localities Bolivia N Itaipu Dam Parana River Atlantic Ocean Above Left: Parana River at Diamante, southwest of Crespo Campo. Right: Puiggari Hotel where Ngaire’s group stayed at Libertador San Martin. 5 The mighty Parana River is crossed by a long bridge. Until it was constructed in 1970, the land between the rivers was an isolated and under-developed part of Argentina. Evidence of slow development was seen ear- ly in the afternoon when the bus arrived at Colon on the Uruguay River—a quaint, colonial-style village with dusty, unpaved streets, and most shops closed for a long siesta from 1:30 to 4:30. However, after checking into Nueva Hotel Plaza, folks explored the village and the riverfront. Some took taxi rides over the river to Paysandu, Uruguay—just for the experience—before dinner at a Colon restaurant. Friday’s sightseeing began with a stop at nearby El Palmar National Park, where one of the few remaining stands of the tall Yatay Palms is preserved. A few miles southward, at the town of Concepcion del Uruguay, the group toured the grounds of the lavish Palacio San Jose, built as the residence of one of the early presi- dents of Argentina, General Justo Jose Urquiza. The town has a university founded in his honor. A long afternoon drive brought the group to the village of Libertador San Martin, where the Adventist uni- versity is located. Keith met the bus at the Puiggari Hotel, where rooms were reserved for Ngaire’s group. Keith acquired an apple and pastry for each person to supplement the dry toast provided for breakfast. Left: Uruguay River at Colon Right: Yatay Palms in El Palmar, Colon Left: Palacio San Jose Right: Main street, Libertador San Martin Sabbath at Libertador San Martin In 1900 the Colegio Adventista del Plata was opened on 40 acres of donated land at what was then known as Puiggari in Entre Rios. The school has since developed into the Universidad Adventista del Plata that we see today. Few towns can boast of a beginning like this place had. It was not a railroad, a house, or a plaza, but a college; the school was the village’s source of water, postal service, and electricity. Presently 2,500 meals are served daily at the cafeteria. There is a small Granix food factory making cereals and vegetable proteins, but the larger one has moved to Buenos Aires. The campus includes a two-hundred bed hospital, which was the second institution established here in 1908. 6 Everyone attended the student-led English speaking Sabbath school. Julian Melgosa, one of our group, led the class discussion. Following lunch, Luis Shulz, university president, led a tour of the campus.