Chair of Urban Studies and Social Research Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism Bauhaus-University Weimar Fashion in the City and The City in Fashion: Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines Doctoral dissertation presented in fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor philosophiae (Dr. phil.) Maria Skivko 10.03.1986 Supervising committee: First Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Frank Eckardt, Bauhaus-University, Weimar Second Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Stephan Sonnenburg, Karlshochschule International University, Karlsruhe Thesis Defence: 22.01.2018 Contents Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................. 5 Thesis Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 6 Part I. Conceptual Approach for Studying Fashion and City: Theoretical Framework ........................ 16 Chapter 1. Fashion in the city ................................................................................................................ 16 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 16 1.1. Fashion concepts in the perspective ........................................................................................... 18 1.1.1. Imitation and differentiation ................................................................................................ 18 1.1.2. Identity ................................................................................................................................ 20 1.1.3. Fashion and taste ................................................................................................................. 26 1.1.4. Social status, social role, and social structure ..................................................................... 29 1.1.5. Fashion as a symbolic system .............................................................................................. 32 1.1.6. Age and gender .................................................................................................................... 35 1.1.7. Patterns and regulations ....................................................................................................... 37 1.1.8. Fashion and time ................................................................................................................. 40 1.1.9. Fashion and postmodernist research .................................................................................... 40 1.2. Urban context in the fashion research ........................................................................................ 43 1.3. Fashion as a multidimensional concept: theoretical considerations for the dissertation ............ 48 Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................... 49 Chapter 2. The city in fashion ............................................................................................................... 51 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 51 2.1. Urban concepts in the perspective .............................................................................................. 53 2.1.1. The city and social organism ............................................................................................... 53 2.1.2. The city and the city growth ................................................................................................ 54 2.1.3. The city and social organization .......................................................................................... 56 2.1.4. The city and spatial organization ......................................................................................... 59 2.1.5. Time and urban space .......................................................................................................... 61 2.1.6. The city in gender ................................................................................................................ 61 2.1.7. The city and symbolic system ............................................................................................. 63 2.1.8. The city and postmodern research ....................................................................................... 64 2.1.9. Culture and urban ................................................................................................................ 67 2.2. Fashion context in urban research .............................................................................................. 72 2.3. Cultural geography approach in researching cities: theoretical considerations for the dissertation ........................................................................................................................................................... 80 Conclusion ......................................................................................................................................... 82 2 Part II. Conceptual Approach to Representations: Methodological Framework ................................... 84 Chapter 3. Representation as a methodological tool in sociology ......................................................... 84 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 84 3.1. Sociological approach to representations ................................................................................... 86 3.2. Representation of cities and urban spaces through fashion and fashion trends .......................... 89 3.2.1. Branded city ........................................................................................................................ 89 3.2.2. City look .............................................................................................................................. 95 3.2.3. Urban garment ................................................................................................................... 101 3.3. Representation of fashion and fashion trends through cities and urban spaces ........................ 105 3.3.1. Fashion production ............................................................................................................ 105 3.3.2. Fashion place ..................................................................................................................... 110 3.3.3. Fashion event ..................................................................................................................... 118 Conclusion ....................................................................................................................................... 123 Chapter 4. Mass-media as a source for representations in contemporary society ............................... 126 Introduction ..................................................................................................................................... 126 4.1. Comprehension of media in sociology ..................................................................................... 127 4.1.1. Media as a source of standards and attitudes ..................................................................... 127 4.1.2. Media as an instrument of manipulation and control ........................................................ 131 4.1.3. Media as a source of representation .................................................................................. 133 4.2. Fashion magazines today .......................................................................................................... 140 4.3. Media consumption and fashion in the Internet ....................................................................... 144 Conclusion ....................................................................................................................................... 148 Chapter 5. Sociological opportunities of the research method: discourse analysis applied to fashion and city ....................................................................................................................................................... 150 Introduction ..................................................................................................................................... 150 5.1. The notion of discourse and methodological opportunities of discourse analysis ................... 151 5.2. Discourse components as a methodical tool for an investigation ............................................. 156 5.2.1. Language ........................................................................................................................... 157 5.2.2. Rhetorical figures .............................................................................................................. 157 5.2.3. Goals of discourse messages ............................................................................................. 158 5.2.4. Language context .............................................................................................................. 159 5.2.5. Construction of identity as group membership .................................................................. 160 5.2.6. Expected recipient audience .............................................................................................