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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Abigail Blasi Thanks to all the people who helped me in Delhi, Many thanks to the travellers who used the last including my Delhi family Jyoti and Niranjan Desai, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful to Danish Abbas, Nicholas Thompson, Sarah Foth- advice and interesting anecdotes: eringham, Toby Sinclair and the Delhi Walla himself, Barbara Illingworth, Bhuvnesh Gupta, Chuck Burton, Mayank Austen Soofi. Special gratitude to Joe Dom Rudd, Frank Clarke, George Barrow, Helen Bindloss and to all the other India authors for their Scurfield, Kerry Nicholls, Lucy Graubart, Magda Bed- help and knowledge. Huge thanks to my Mum, Ant & kowska, Michael Beer, Renée Keulers, Sutej Sharma, Luca for looking after everyone at home. Suzanne Hopwood, Terri Drage, Vincenzo Coppola ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS WRITER THANKS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Lindsay Brown BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the I am very grateful for the help and encouragement Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and provided by Satinder, Karan & Ritu and Dicky & Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Kavita in Jaipur, Anoop in Pushkhar, Usha in Ranth- Cover photograph: Rajasthani woman passing street ambhore, Harsh in Bikaner, Siddharth in Jaisalmer, mural in Bundi, Ian Trower/AWL © Ramesh Jangid in Nawalgarh, Laxmi Kant Jangid in Jhunjhunu and many many others who helped out Illustrations pp36–7 and pp82–3 by Javier Zarracina; along the road. Last but not least, thanks to Jenny. pp98–9 by Michael Weldon. THIS BOOK Kevin Raub. This guidebook Book Designer Michael Buick was produced by the following: Assisting Editors Imogen This 5th edition of Lonely Plan- Destination Editor Joe Bannister, Anne Mulvaney, et’s Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra Bindloss Gabrielle Stefanos guidebook was researched Product Editors Alison Cover Researcher Naomi Parker and written by Lindsay Brown Ridgway, Kathryn Rowan Thanks to Joel Cotterell, and Abigail Blasi. The previous Cartographers Lonely Planet Daniel Fahey, Gemma Graham, edition was written by Paul Cartography Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Clammer, Abigail Blasi and Tom Stainer ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281 Index A antelopes 237 Rao Jodha Desert Rock City Palace (Alwar) 131-2 Abhaneri 127 archaeological sites Park 178-9 City Palace (Jaipur) 107, accessible travel 254-5 Mehrauli Archaeological Sultanpur National 110-11, 105 Park 76 accommodation 246-7, see Park 75 City Palace (Kota) 150 also individual locations Qutb Minar Complex 75 Bishnoi people 222 City Palace (Udaipur) 155, 12 children, travel with 26 architecture 234-5 block printing 103, 105, 105 climate 14, 19-21, see also language 274 area codes 15, 254 boat trips individual regions palaces 16 art galleries, see museums Kota 150 climate change 257 activities 19-21, see also & galleries Udaipur 156 coffee 230 individual activities arts 102-3, 232-3, see also books 204 consulates 248 individual arts Agra 9, 28, 78-97, 79, 86, border crossings to Pakistan cooking courses 88, 2-3, 8-9, 17 ATMs 250 185, 258 Delhi 54 accommodation 78, 88-91 autorickshaws 262 Brahma 224 Jaipur 115 activities 87 avian flu 269 Brahman 224 Pushkar 140 climate 78 ayurveda British East India Company Udaipur 158 213 drinking & nightlife 93 Delhi 53 costs 15 British empire 213-15 emergencies 94 Jaipur 115 courses, see also individual festivals & events 91 Pushkar 139-40 budgeting 15 locations food 78, 91-3 Udaipur 158 Bundi 13, 145-50, 146, 13 cooking 54, 115, 140, 158 highlights 79 bus travel language 54 local transport 262 medical services 94 B meditation 54, 115 within Rajasthan 259 scams 94 baoris 235 yoga 54, 115, 140, 158 business hours 15, 251 shopping 93-4 bathrooms 254 crafts 103, 233-4, 102, 103, sights 79-87 bazaars, see markets & 104, 105 tourist information 95 bazaars C credit cards 242, 251 tours 87-8 bears 97, 239 camel safaris 13, 17-18, 13 cricket 222 travel seasons 78 beer 231 Bikaner 197 culture 204-5, 219-22 travel to/from 95-6 begging 219 Jaisalmer 192-3 currency 250 travel within 96 Bhagavad Gita 225 Osian 186 customs regulations 247-8 Agra Fort 84-6, 17 Bharatpur 128-31, 129 Sam Sand Dunes 195 cycle-rickshaws 262 cycling 258-9 air pollution 270 Bhil people 222 camels 11, 13, 17-18, 11, 13 air travel bicycle travel, see cycling car travel 259-60 Delhi 53 to/from India 257 Bikaner 196-202, 198-9 carbon-monoxide Jaipur 115 within India 258 bird flu 269 poisoning 270 Udaipur 158-9 Ajmer 135-8, 136 birdwatching 16, 21, 239-40, 17 carpets 103, 234, 102, 103 altitude sickness 271 Desert National Park caste system 223 D Alwar 131-3 196 cell phones 14, 253-4 dance 232 Amber 127-8 Guda Bishnoi 185 cenotaphs 235 dangers, see safety Amber Fort 9, 127-8, 9 Keoladeo National Park chai 230-1 Deeg 132 amoebic dysentery 270 129-30, 17 Chand Baori 127 dehydration 270 Kota 150 animals 237-40, see also chhatris 235 Delhi 10, 27, 30-77, 32-3, 10 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife individual species children, travel with 25-6 accommodation 30, 54-9 Sanctuary 165 chinkaras 237 activities 53 Mt Abu 169 Chittorgarh (Chittor) 12, climate 30 Map Pages Ranthambhore National 000 151-4, 152, 5, 12 Connaught Place 42-3, 57, Photo Pages Park 11, 143-5, 11 000 cholera 269 61-2, 69, 42-3 282 Delhi continued F Ganesh 224 Hinduism 223-5 courses 54 Fatehpur 174 gardens, see parks & history 206-18 drinking & nightlife Fatehpur Sikri 97-101, gardens HIV 269 65-6 98-9, 373-4 gay travellers 249 Holi 19, 2, 18 entertainment 67 festivals & events 17, gazelles 237 holidays 253 food 30, 59-65 19-21, 28 gems 233, 242-3 horse riding 158 INDEX highlights 32-3 Delhi 31 geography 236-7 internet access 71 Dussehra Mela 114 giardiasis 270 medical services 71 Gangaur 114 golf 53 I immigration 257 D- New Delhi 43-9, 58, 62-4, Jodhpur Flamenco & Guda Bishnoi 185 independence 214-16 J 69-70, 46-7 Gypsy Festival 180 Gurgaon (Gurugram) 76-7 indigenous peoples 222 Old Delhi 34-42, 54-5, Kailash Fair 91 Guru Shikhar 169 59-60, 68-9, 38-9 Marwar Festival 180 influenza 269 insect bites & stings Paharganj 55-7, 60-1, 56 Mewar Festival 159 271-2 safety 70-1 Pushkar Camel Fair 140 H Hanuman 224 insurance shopping 67-70 Rajasthan 114 havelis 235, 247, 12 health 266 sights 31-53 Rajasthan International Bhagton ki Choti Haveli motorcycle 261 South Delhi 50-2, 58-9, Folk Festival 180 171 travel 249 64-5, 70, 50-1 Ram Barat 91 Binsidhar Newatia internet access 249 tourist information 71 Taj Mahotsav 91 Haveli 175 tours 53-4 Teej 114 internet resources 15 Le Prince Haveli 174 Islam 225 travel seasons 30 film 204, 233 Modi Havelis 173 travel to/from 71-2 food 27, 227-31, 248-9, see Iswari Minar Swarga Sal Mohanlal Ishwardas 113 travel within 72-5 also individual locations Modi Haveli 173 itineraries 22-4, 22, 23, 24 West Delhi 57-8, 60-1 children, travel with 25-6 Murmuria Haveli 175 dengue fever 269 cooking courses 54, 115, Nathmal-ki-Haveli 189 140, 158 Desert National Park 196 Patwa-ki-Haveli 188-9 J language 274-6 deserts 17-18, 204, 237 Shekhawati 175 jackals 238 safety 242, 270 diarrhoea 269-70 Hawa Mahal 113 Jagmandir Island 156-7 vegetarian travellers 228 disabilities, travellers with health 266-72 Jain temples 254-5 forts 16, 28, 235, see also Bhandasar Temple 197 palaces books 268 divorce 220 Delwara Temples 167 accommodation 247 checklist 266-7 Diwali 21 children, travel with 26 Digambara Jain Agra Fort 84-6, 17 Temple 35 drinking water 271 environmental hazards Amber Fort 9, 127-8, drinks 230-1 9 270-2 Jaisalmer 187 Bala Quila 132-3 driving 259-60 insurance 266 Mahavira Temple 185 Chittorgarh Fort 12, droughts 204 services 268 Nasiyan (Red) Temple 151-3, 5, 12 136-7 drugs 242, 250 vaccinations 266, 267 Jaigarh 128 Ranakpur 166 dysentery, amoebic 270 websites 268 Jaisalmer Fort 11, 186, 11 Jainism 226 heatstroke 271 Junagarh 196-7 Jaipur 9, 107-27, , hepatitis 269 110-11 9 E Kankwari Fort 134 accommodation 117-19 economy 204-5 hijras 221 Kumbhalgarh 165 activities 115 electricity 248 hiking 169 Lohagarh 129 courses 115 embassies 248 Hindu temples Mehrangarh 10, 177, 10 drinking & nightlife 122 embroidery 234 Akshardham Temple 52 Nahargarh 113-14 entertainment 122-3 emergencies 15, 276 Brahma Temple 138-9 Purana Qila 47-8 food 120-1 enamelwork 233 Chhatarpur Mandir 51-2 Red Fort 34-5, 36-7, internet access 124 encephalitis, Japanese B Galta 114-15 36-7 medical services 124 269 Jagdish Temple 157 Taragarh 147 shopping 123-7 endangered species 239 Jhandewalan Hanuman Tughlaqabad 75 sights 107-15 environmental issues 204 Temple 42 frescoes 233, 102-3 tourist