OFFICIAL FREE BCN GUIDE! FREE ISSUE_NOV 2014_N. 28 ISSUE_NOV 2014_N. FREE BcnGuide IN ENGLISH WE FOLLOW THE STEPS OF 20TH-CENTURY ART GENIUSES IN BARCELONA DOWNLOAD FREE TIME OUT BARCELONA APP! THE BEST OF BARCELONA ON YOUR Contents IPHONE! November 2014 08 Artists The great artists who have left their mark on the city of Barcelona. 08 Feature 20 Food & Drink The Barcelona of Picasso, Crum is nothing short of Dalí, Miró and Tàpies a temple to the humble potato 16 Around town An underground tour of the 22 Shopping city’s metro system Mood’s and Le Fortune: interesting men and lucky 18 Arts women The Voll-Damm International Jazz Festival is back 27 Listings TIME OUT BARCELONA TIME OUT BCN GUIDE ([email protected]), Via Laietana, 20 [email protected] Mercè Llubera 932955400 www.barcelonaturisme.com ([email protected]), Pere www.timeout.cat Editor Andreu Gomila Ribalta ([email protected]) Design Irisnegro Edited by 80 MES 4 Publicacions Publisher Eduard Voltas Producer Jan Fleischer & Turisme de Barcelona Finance Manager Judit Sans Designer Eduard Forroll Printed by Gràfica Impuls 45 Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila Writers Josep Lambies, DL B.21656-2012 Art director Diego Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, ISSN 2014-7546 Piccininno Eugènia Sendra Supported by Features and web editor Translations Nick Chapman Maria José Gómez Advertising Ex. Nuria Gómez November 2014 Time Out BCN Guide 3 Get out your diaries! We Monthly present just a handful of the cultural highlights of planner the month ahead. Saturday 01 Friday 03 Thursday 13 EUROPA 25: THE LADY GAGA CAT POWER FALL OF THE WALL The outrageous pop The American Looking back at the diva presents singer-songwriter events that led to a artRAVE: the performs as part of change of regime in ARTPOP Ball Tour, at the Millennium Hungary. the Palau Sant Jordi. Festival. See p.29 See p.41 See p.42 Sunday 16 Tuesday 18 SISTER ACT 21st Whoopi Goldberg L’ALTERNATIVA co-produces this The city’s festival of musical based on independent her nuntastic hit: at cinema returns to Teatre Tívoli. the CCCB. See p.32 See p.44 Sunday 23 Monday 24 91st JEAN BOUIN GRAN FLAMENC This is the oldest OF AUTUMN road race in Spain – El Tablao Cordobes and it’s also one of hosts the stars of the oldest in all of the contemporary Europe. flamenco scene. See p.46 See p.44 Tuesday 25 Thursday 27 ST. VINCENT SALMÔN FESTIVAL St. Vincent, aka The festival of Annie Clark, returns European talents in to Barcelona with movement always her latest album, brings big Digital Witness. surprises. See p.47 See p.34 4 Time Out BCN Guide November 2014 The Hotot Seat Tori Sparks This US singer and guitarist has now turned her hand to flamenco fusion. By Jordi Bianciotto Why is it that you’ve lived in so songs and some covers, one from many different places? North Roy Orbison and a Leonard Cohen Carolina, Georgia, Florida, one, ‘Everybody knows’, in a version Nashville, Paris... for tango. It was because of my parents’ Do you know Omega by Enrique works, for my studies. It’s Morente and Lagartija Nick? interesting. Here they say to me, Yes, it influenced me in the sense ‘For you Americans, if you haven’t that Morente did something totally left your home town, it’s because unexpected in making that record. things haven’t gone well for you, you Attitudes like that inspire me, like don’t have any ambition; in contrast, those of Tom Waits or Ry Cooder. if we have had to leave, it’s because Flamenco has certain technical we’ve done something badly.’ difficulties. Did you ever wish you’d Your music has a very American not started with it? basis to it. I’m not trying to be a flamenca; I On October 16, I released my new studied the guitar a bit in Granada, disc, El Mar (The Sea), where I mix my and what I’m doing is a mixture of original sounds with flamenco fusion, lots of different styles: blues, country, working with members of the group jazz, folk, rock. For me, flamenco is Calamento and the singer-songwriter the most complicated style – it’s got El Duende. This is my fifth album and so many nuances. What is strange it didn’t make any sense to make the to me is seeing someone who’s a fan record that I would have in Nashville. without understanding your lyrics. I kept asking the Calamento guys, I’m grateful, of course, but it’s a new ‘Does this sound stupid? If it does, perspective for me. It shows that the tell me now!’ It’s got some of my own music itself also transmits meaning. 6 Time Out BCN Guide November 2014 BARCELONA’S ARTISTS We follow the steps of 20th-century art geniuses in Barcelona DALÍ Barcelona was one of the most important stages in the spectacle that was Salvador Dalí’s life. To coincide with the 25th anniversary of his death, we look at places where the surrealist genius left his mark. By Ricard Mas The first stop on the Dalí trail is the In March 1930, anointed by the Ateneu Barcelonès (Canuda, 6). In founder of surrealism, André Breton, the 1920s it was the heart of the city’s he spoke there on ‘The moral position intellectual life. Dalí’s uncle was a of surrealism’. member, as was his art dealer, Josep Dalí had become an atheist, a Dalmau, and the most distinguished communist and a surrealist. He spent Catalan literary figures of the era, the Civil War in France, and, at the including Josep M. de Sagarra, start of WWII, emigrated to the USA, Francesc Pujols and Josep Pla. Dalí to return in 1948 with an enourmous was a fequent visitor and a rising star. moustache, a bestselling biography 8 Time Out BCN Guide November 2014 and a restored Catholic faith. On October 19, 1950, Dalí returned to the Ateneu and gave the no less startling lecture, ‘Why I was sacrilegious. Why I am a mystic’. But despite appearances, he hadn’t changed much. And he still loved the work of Antoni Gaudí. He’d been one of the first to defend it to the surrealists, saying that ‘beauty will be edible, or it will cease to be’. He translated Francesc Pujols’ The artistic and Religious Vision of Gaudí (1927), into French. He was photographed by Català Roca on the roof terrace of La Pedrera – he had already sent Man Ray to shoot the building in 1933, to illustrate an article in the surrealist journal Minotaure – and at Park Tarantos; more than the music, he Güell. In Gaudí’s park, in September liked the flamenco party atmosphere. 1956, Dalí held a celebrated lecture/ To round off our Dalian tour of performance: while painting on a huge Barcelona, what could be better than a canvas with tar, and with the castellers night at the Palace Barcelona hotel Xiquets de Valls raising human towers – formerly the Ritz – in the Dalí suite, in the background, Dalí held forth on where he entertained all kinds of Gaudí, the gothic, Fortuny, Pujols, his visitors, including a horse, first alive wife Gala and the Sagrada Família. and then stuffed, and the Czech From spirituality to the world of contortionists The Elver Sisters. animals, in 1967 Dalí designed an Dalí was his own greatest artwork. ashtray for Air India, and asked to be But if you’re more traditionally paid one elephant. The authorities minded, it’s paintings you want to see. delivered the young elephant to Start at the Palauet Albéniz, with the Portlligat: Dalí named it Surus and commission Dalí painted for Mayor donated it to the Barcelona Zoo. It Josep Maria de Porcioles: in 1969 it cost was a year since the zoologist Sabater 3 million pesetas. A mural in oils, it Pi had brought back Snowflake, the shows the traditional Catalan dance, albino gorilla that would capture Dalí’s the sardana, and simultaneously imagination. Accompanied by the commemorates the first manned moon artist Amanda Lear, he was landing and the naming of future king photographed with the gorilla, Juan Carlos as Franco’s heir. Also on rivalling Duchamp and his Bride Montjuïc, at the MNAC, you’ll find Stripped Bare by Her Bachelors, Even. three oil paintings, including a 1925 But ultimately Dalí preferred dead portrait of the artist’s father, his hand animals, like those served at Via resting indiscreetly on his fly. End the Veneto (Ganduxer, 10-12) where he tour on the ground floor of theReial always sat at table 8. Or stuffed ones, Cercle Artístic, where you can view like the rhino he was lent by the much- art collector Joan Bofill’s controversial missed taxidermist’s on Plaça Reial – exhibition of sculptures. Why the no a seafood restaurant – on which he controversy? That’s another story. posed for a famous photo session. Dalí was a regular visitor to nearby bar Los November 2014 Time Out BCN Guide 9 BARCELONA’S ARTISTS TÀPIES We’ll never unravel the meaning of Antoni Tàpies’s labyrinth. We have to forget what we’ve learned to comprehend the wide-open universe of his spirituality. By Ricard Mas 01. Zoom, 1946. 02. Metallic door and violin, 1956. Fundació Antoni Tàpies Fundació Antoni Tàpies In 1946 Antoni Tàpies quit law school In the midst of his revolutionary and set up his first studio. In Zoom this discovery of pintura matèrica (matter self-taught artist hones a naïve vision painting), Tàpies retained the musical similar to the art of the mentally ill.