Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 10, No. 6, pp.38~51(2006) A Study on the Scythian Buckle Kim, Moon-Ja Professor, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Suwon University Abstract In Scythian art the multitude of animal representations well illustrates the preoccupation of this nomadic people with animals in their environment. Usually only wildanimalsare represented. The purpose and meaning of the animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many timesthe motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Following earlier Scythian migrations, Sarmatian animal-style art is distinguished by complex compositions in which stylized animals are depicted twisted or turned back upon themselves or in combat with other animals. Without copying nature, they accurately conveyed the essence of every beast depicted. Scythian bound the leather belts that was hanged a hook that shaped of different kinds at the end on the upper garment. Through the antique records and tombs bequests the styles of Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. In Korea, through the antique records and tombs bequests the styles of Buckles was horse-shaped and tiger-shaped Buckles that were influenced by scythe style. Key Words : Scythian, animal fight-shaped buckle, rectangle-shaped buckle, horse-shaped buckle, tiger-shaped buckle I. Introduction -were described by the Greek historian Herodotus in his Histories. But we also know During the first millennium B. C., many about them from their burial mounds, which horse-riding nomadic tribes controlled the contained sumptuous golden objects made in vast Eurasian steppes to the north of the a variety of styles that reflect contacts with Black and Caspian seas. Some of the Greece, Persia, and China. Scythian bound nomadic groups— particularly Scythian tribes the leather belts that was hanged a hook that that lived in the plains north of the Black Sea shaped of different kinds at the end on the 38 Kim, Moon-Ja / A Study on the Scythian Buckle upper garment. Buckles from the burial mounds of Scythian In a nomadic society where wealth must be chiefs. easily portable the craftsman's efforts were The method of this research is through the put into small items such as gold jewelry, belt antique records and tombs bequests hereby buckle. With a magnificent understanding of deals with the characteristics of Scythian composition and the essential nature of the Buckles was divided into the types according material, craftsmen fashioned utilitarian objects to the shapes. in animal form: weaponry, horse trappings, clothes, ornaments and jewellery and other everyday objects were all decorated with II. Buried Treasures of zoomorphic motifs. In Scythian art the Scythian Buckles multitude of animal representations well illustrates the preoccupation of this nomadic The Scythians and their elaborately people with animals in their environment. ornamented gold objects also reveal a tale of Usually only wild animals are represented. The interaction with the Greek world, which occasional exception to the wild animal rule is purchased grain, fur, and amber from the domesticated horses - important because the ferocious warriors. Profits from this trade Scythians were horse breeders and their brought the Scythians the wealth to indulge whole culture revolved around their dependence their taste for elaborate objects ranging from on the horse. Animal-shaped style reflected exquisite jewelry for themselves to elaborate the mythology, the ethical and aesthetic ideals ornamentation for their horses. of the warrior-nomad. Animals were considered This prosperity may well have been what to have magical power and to provide caused the Scythians to abandon their protection against evil or disaster and nomadic existence and to allow another representations of them thus occupied an hardier, nomadic tribe known as the important place in life. Samatians to take control of the vast territory Following earlier Scythian migrations, that the Scythians had dominated. The Sarmatian animal-style art is distinguished by exhibition will also include several superb complex compositions in which stylized Sarmatian gold objects. animals are depicted twisted or turned back Modern knowledge of the Scythians is upon themselves or in combat with other based on archaeological excavations of their animals. Without copying nature, they accurately elaborately equipped burial mounds known as conveyed the essence of every beast kurhans. Ongoing explorations continue to depicted. The highly stylized modelling uses recover an astonishing wealth of gold and bold accentuated planes, while distinctive silver objects, including horse trappings, features associated with particular species are armor, weaponry, jewelry, and ceremonial emphasized and exaggerated. adornment with which powerful members of The purpose of this study is reviewing and these ancient peoples were entombed, along researching the symbolic meaning and with retinues of attendants.1) classifying the types of the art style of the The tombs of the Scythian kings and chiefs 39 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.10, No.6 have long been famous in archaeology. In and paste locket but even the less important construction they have much in common with burials provide an abundance of jewellery and the far older barrows of the Kuban, while in precious materials.5) contents they show an analogous mixture of If we disregard the elements and motifs in northern and Near Eastern objects and styles. Scythian art that are obvious borrowings from This continuity in idea cannot be traced on West Asia and in part from Greek art, the steppes, and should probably be sought adapted to scythian tradition, we shall still in Western Asia, which now provides a new see a huge number of other elements peculiar impulse. In Kelermes barrow 4, there was a to that people alone, and the product of their gold buckle runner shaped as cylindrical rod own creativity. Despite differences in local with depressions for inlay of light blue enamel features, the existence of which was natural and amber.2) in view of the extensive area inhabited by the The most notable groups of tombs are in Scythians, the common features were the Kuban basin, often in the same places as obviously predominant. These stemmed from the first great barrows, in the Taman thefactthattheirartwasadaptedtothe Peninsula, in the Crimea, and on the Dnieper ornamentation of various articles of everyday where they extend to the neighbourhood of use, and was stylized in a way all its own.6) Kiev. Other burials occur in the Danubian A large complex of gold ornaments was plain, and outlying single graves even in North unearthed by S. Chernikov while excavating Germany; there are more on the Don and wealthy kurgans of the seventh-sixth centuries Donetz and farther east by the Volga to the B.C. in the Chiliktinskaya Valley (Eastern Urals.3) Kazakhstan). The complex consists, in the Following earlier Scythian migrations, main of clothing and weapon ornaments'. The Sarmatian tribes moved in the fourth century Chilikta finds are mostly gold applique work B.C. from the area north of the Caspian Sea skillfully cut out of foil (boars "on points" and into the Caucasus and Europe. Sarmatian diamond-shaped buckles). They had been animal-style art is distinguished by complex glued on to cloth or wood. The boars are of compositions in which stylized animals are different sizes but treated in the same depicted twisted or turned back upon manner. The outlines are extremely austere. themselves or in combat with other animals. These designs resemble certain speci- mens Plaques, clasps, and weapons were frequently of rock drawings and even Palaeolithic made of precious metals and embellished with paintings. The drop-shaped eye and triangular polychrome inlays of stone and glass, many tusk have been cut out. The Chilikta finds of which find stylistic parallels in the East.4) prove the existance of established and highly The most magnificent pieces naturally come expressive images and ornamental motifs in from the Scythian royal tombs, where the that early period. The buckles in the form of skeletons were invariably bedecked with a recumbent stag are most remarkable. They golden diadems, head-dresses, necklaces, were also glued on to cloth or leather, as belts, bracelets, ear and finger-rings, torques, they are not pierced for sewing. It should be pendants,amulets,beads,buttons,buckles noted that the stags' ears were made 40 Kim, Moon-Ja / A Study on the Scythian Buckle separately and filled in with stones and paste ritual attire. He wore a thin, evidently silk encrustation. A tendency to use different shirt, a short coat (kamzol), narrow breeches colours is already evident in the Chilikta of red suede and high boots without heels. artefacts. In the treatment of antlers, the His heavy belt was composed of cast plaques stags are reminiscent of "rein- deer stones". in the shape of a fantastic stag and elks' The image of the noble stag is known from heads. On his head, the chieftain wore a high Neolithic remains of the peoples of conical three-sided hat (kulakh). It is exactly Kazakhstan, Siberia, Central and Near Asia in such hats that the noble Saks-tigrakhaudy (since the 2nd mil- lennium B.C.). (literally-"in hats with pointed tops") are In this connection it can be said that in the depicted in relief on the staircase in Saks art the local tradition has been Persepolis. Round his neck he had a gold organically combined with Near-Eastern tofque with three loops, its ends fashioned in borrowings in the treatment of the stag. On the form of tigers' heads. On the right, the whole, in the Scytho-Saks world the gold fastened to a belt, in the red wooden sheath stag was the symbol of the sun, of the birth was a sword of the type used by warriors and death cycle in nature, and its antlers fighting on horseback; on the left, was an were shoots of the Tree of Life.