AN ETYMOLOGICAL EXPLORATION OF FOODSTUFFS AND UTENSILS: THE SOCIOLINGUISTIC FORTUNE OF CULINARY TERMS OF APICIUS’ DE RE COQUINARIA Chuck Johnson A dissertation submitted to the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of Romance Languages. Chapel Hill 2006 Approved by: Advisor: Dr. Lucia Binotti Reader: Dr. Frank Dominguez Reader: Dr. Monica Rector Reader: Dr. Hassan Melehy Reader: Dr. Adriano Duque 2006 Chuck Johnson ii ABSTRACT CHUCK JOHNSON: An Etymological Exploration to Foodstuffs and Utensils: The Sociolinguistic Fortune of Culinary Terms of Apicius’ De re coquinaria. (Under the direction of Lucia Binotti) This study will trace the sociolinguistic fortune of the culinary terms from Apicius’ De re coquinaria into the major medieval romance dialects. As the only cookbook from antiquity, the culinary context of De re coquinaria offers a social context in which we may observe sociolinguistic change and variation from Latin to the major medieval romance dialects. We may observe dialectal phonological and morphological change and variation of the culinary terms, their sociolinguistic stratification based on socially determined variables including class, internal and foreign linguistic borrowing based on prestige and culinary innovation, and diachronic dialectal semantic change. This study will demonstrate ultimately linguistic conservatism or innovation of the culinary terms in the major medieval romance dialects. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Chapter I INTRODUCTION . 1 Author . 1 Manuscripts and Early Imprints . .5 Printed Editions of DRC . .7 Structure of DRC . 9 The Present Study . .11 II CORPUS . .16 Introduction . 16 Greens . 19 Root Vegetables . 29 Gourds . .38 Fruits . .48 Preparation . 62 Utensils . 89 Condiments . 114 Simple Dishes . 124 Sumptuous Dishes . .126 Fowl . .174 iv Seafood . 191 Quadrupeds . 199 III HISTORICAL DIALECTOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT . .207 Introduction . 207 Phonological Development . 208 Popular versus Learned Terms . 214 Accentuation . 219 Morphological Development . 222 Gender . .224 Diminutive and Derivational Morphology . 231 Conclusion . 242 IV THE INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL SOCIOLINGUISTIC VARIABLES OF NEED AND PRESTIGE: GREEK CULINARY TERMS, THE THEORY OF VULGAR LATIN, MEDIEVAL LINGUISTIC BORROWING, AND ONOMATOPOEIA . .. .245 Introduction . .245 Greek Culinary Terms of the DRC . .246 Vulgar Latin . 252 New derivations for culinary innovation . 260 Inter-dialectal Linguistic Borrowing . 264 Gallicisms . 265 Occitanisms . .266 Italianisms and Iberianisms . .266 Non-Romance Loan Words . 269 Germanicisms . 270 v Arabisms . 273 Onomatopeic Culinary Terms . 276 Conclusion . 280 V SEMANTIC CHANGE . 282 Introduction . 282 Polysemy . 283 Semantic Specialization . .285 Semantic Markedness . .290 Wild versus Domestic . .291 Masculine versus Feminine . .294 Raw versus Cooked . .295 Semantic Extension . 297 Metonymy . .300 Synecdoche . 307 Antonomasia . 313 Metaphor . .315 Amelioration and Pejoration . 322 Conclusion . 325 VI CONCLUSION . 327 VII BIBLIOGRAPHY . .336 vi LIST OF ABBREVATIONS abruzz. = Abruzzi anglon. = Anglo-Norman arag. = Aragonese arb. = Arabic bergam. = Bergamese blon. = Blonay bologn. = Bolonese bourb. = Bourbonnais bourg. = Bourgignon breton = Britanny calabr. = Calabrese cast. = Castilian (Spanish) cat. = Catalan cors.= Corsican DRC = Giarratano, C., and F. Vollmer. Apicii librorum X qui dicuntur de re coquinaria, Lipzig: B.G. Tevbneri, 1922. ferra. = Ferrara FEW = Wartburg, Walther. Französisches etymologisches Wörterburg, 25 vols. Bonn: Klopp, 1928 flor. = Florentine fr. = French (modern) vii galic. = Galician gcoincy = Coincy gen. = Genovese judfr. = Judeo French napol. = Napolitan leon = Leonese log. = Logudorian (Sardinian) lomb. = Lombardian lucc. = Lucca mazed. = Macedonian mfr. = Middle Francien (French - 14th-15th centuries) milan. = Milanese mirand. = Miranda (Portugal) montbel. = Montbéliard neap. = Naples nb = New Burgish ofr. = Old Francien (French - 11th – 13th centuries) orm. = Ormea (Piedmontese) port. = Portuguese reat. = Rieti venet. = Venetian pad. = Padova ped. = Piedmontese ii pistoj = Pistoia prov. = Provenzal (langue d’oc) regg. = Reggio REW = Meyer-Lübke. Romanisches etymologisches Wörterbuch. Heidelberg: Carl Winters Universitätsbuchhandlung, 1935 sic. = Sicilian tarent. = Tarentinian tergest. Tergestin TLF = Institut National de la Langue Française Nancy. Trésor de la langue française. 16 vols. Nancy: Gallimard, 1971-94. http://atilf.atilf.fr/tlfv3.htm tusc = Tuscan (Italian) venet. = Venetian vicent = Vicentin wall. = Wallon iii Introduction De re coquinaria (DRC) is the only surviving collection of recipes from antiquity. Most scholars disagree on a precise date of authorship of DRC because they believe that the DRC is really a large compilation of recipes from different Roman cooks. However, it seems plausible that the collection was gathered in its present form in the 3rd or late 4th century A.D. (Lindsey 144). However,.