Conference Proceedings Published by Bunka Gakuen University 3-22-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan 151-8521 Conference Proceedings 2014 The Power of Fashion © International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes 2014 Individual contributors will also retain ownership of separate copyrights in their own contributions. All rights reserved. Except for the quotation of short passages for the purposes of criticism and review, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior permission of the publisher. The Power of Fashion ISBN: 978-4-579-90613-6 Printed by Bunka Color Printing Co., Tokyo, Japan CONTENTS 5 Preface 7 Introduction 1 9 The Power of Fashion for Happiness 9 Exploratory Research on the Image of Fashion Psychology and its Relation to Health among Female University Students in Japan Shujiro Sugita 16 Nirvana through Fashion Kavita Saluja 24 Health Socks: Market Awareness and Promotion Shazia Amanat 34 A Study of Color Psyche as a Happiness Quotient in Fashion Nithya Venkataraman & Vibhavari Kumar 51 The Social and Economic Power of Fashion 51 Are the Western Fashion Brands Exploiting the “Ethnic” Trend? A Discussion on the Global Circulation and Consumption of African Fashion in the Western Market and Africa Edwin Phiri & Josette Matomby 60 The Fashion Industry in India and its Social Responsibility Rebecca Philip 70 The Social and Economic Impacts of ‘Cool Biz’ and ‘Super Cool Biz’ Fashion in Japan Katsue Edo & Haruko Kitakata 78 Making the Cut: the Power of Fashion Literacy Patricia Hart 84 Clothes in the Family: the Apron Generates Family Life Akiko Yamamura 91 Neighbourmoods: the Happy Future of Retail Judith ter Haar & Martine Bovee 99 The Power of Fashion in Business, Industry, Marketing and Merchandising 99 The Visual Language of Louis Vuitton Cassandra Ng 110 Relationships and Power: Changing Routes to Market for SME Designers 2 Anthony Kent & Wendy Malem 119 The Cultural Aspects of the Power of Fashion 119 Identification of Contemporary Fashion Trends, Social and Cultural Influences on Domestic Fashion, and Contribution to the Global Fashion Industry in Peru Shelley Cernel 131 The Power of Fashion: Negotiating Tradition and Modernity in Contemporary Moroccan Society M. Angela Jansen 137 The Space between Body and Dress Sayaka Kamakura 143 The Powerlessness of Fashion Sean Ryan 149 The Power of Fiction in the Fashioning of Walter Van Beirendonck Winnie Ha 156 Ethnographic Clothing: Mapping Personal and Wider Interest from Fashion Perspective Rekha Rana Shailaj 165 Analysing the History of the Narratives of Fashion Design in India: The Perspectives on Power of Representation and Paradigm Shifts in Pre-Modern Kerala State of India Uthaman Mangalathu Kochuraman 174 Three Social Powers of Japanese Traditional Fashion Sheila Cliffe 183 Kawaii: Cute Fashions and the Pleasures of Irony in Japan Toby Slade 189 The Power of Technology and Innovation in Fashion 189 Turning Figure Drawing on its Head Ruth Sanderson & Simeon Gill 195 Disrupting Fashion through Innovation: How Crowd-Sourcing is Changing the Business Model for Fashion Brands and Prompting Engagement with 3 Communities Ana Roncha, Matteo Montecchi & Karinna Nobbs 206 Smart Textiles & Garments: an Innovative Approach in Fashion Sandip Mukherjee 217 Fashioning Knitwear: Case Studies in 3D Conceptualisation Kathryn Brownbridge 225 The Power of Fahion Education 225 New Dimensions in Knit Design Frances Joseph, Amanda Smith & Jyoti Kalyanji 235 An EMBEDDING Approach towards Highly Employable, Industry-Ready Students Julie Hodson & Shuyu Lin 242 East Meets West: Cultural Empowerment through Fashion Photography Margo Barton & Emily Hlavac-Green PREFACE Professor Frances Corner OBE 5 CHAIRPERSON OF IFFTI HEAD OF LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION PRO VICE-CHANCELLOR, UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS LONDON The 16th Annual Conference of the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI) was hosted by Bunka Gakuen, Japan from 27th - 31st January 2014 and was based around the theme of ‘The Power of Fashion’, which is of particular relevance in a Japanese context. Fashion is a powerful communicative tool; a timeless and universal instrument of cultural transmission. As a visual language that we use to communicate and transmit our ideas about ourselves as individuals, as well as our culture and our society, fashion has the power to influence and helps to inform and create the institutions around which our lives are based. Nothing is untouched by fashion; the global economy, our cultural identities and our very notions of self. As such fashion, as a creative discipline, has the power to innovate and transform everything with it comes into contact with. At the conference we debated this stimulating theme in detail, looking at how the influence of ‘fashion’ has evolved over time and how, by gaining a better understanding of its power, we can use it to enhance the quality of our lives and the improve the world we live in. We explored sub- themes such as fashion and happiness, interrogating the psychology of fashion, its effects on our individual cognition and interpersonal relations, as well as fashion as a force for technological advancement, education and transformation. The conference attracted over 110 delegates from fashion technology institutes around the world as well as a number of representatives from the fashion industry. The distinguished key note speakers included: Takeshi Hirouchi (Chairman, Japan Apparel Fashion, Industry Council; Chairman, Council of Industry-Academia Collaboration on Textiles and Fashion; Representative Director, Chairman and President, Onward Holdings Co., Ltd.), Susumu Kataoka (Director of Textile and Clothing Industries, Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry), Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi (Designers of matohu) and Prof. Zeshu Takamura (Professor of Advanced Fashion Design and Head of the Fashion Illustration Laboratory, Faculty of Fashion Science, Bunka Gakuen University Graduate School; Lecturer, Tokyo Institute of Technology). All of the keynote speakers gave insightful presentations and I would like to thank them for their valuable contributions. Other highlights included the presentation of over 28 academic papers by faculty from member institutions, a tour of the Bunka Gakuen campus, Bunka Fashion Textile Research Laboratory and the Digital Human Research Centre. Delegates were also invited to hear from eminent guest speaker, Yohji Yamamoto, as part of the Bunka Fashion Graduate University Fashion Week Seminar. Finally, I would like to take this opportunity to thank the organising committee and staff at Bunka Gakuen for all their hard work and for making us feel so welcome. My particular thanks also go to Tina Guglielmino (Deputy Head of Vocational Education & Training at RMIT Australia and former Chair of IFFTI) for her insight and guidance and to Commodore Vijay Chaturvedi (Retd.) for his untiring hard work and support as Secretary-General of IFFTI. One of the aims of IFFTI when it was founded in 1999 was to serve as an international forum for the exchange of ideas and collaborative research and development in fashion design, technology and business and related industries. I am confident that the 2014 IFFTI conference at Bunka Gakuen has successfully met this aim. And I look forward to attending many more successful conferences in the years to come as IFFTI continues to fulfil an important role in global fashion education. INTRODUCTION Sunao Onuma 7 CHAIRMAN, BUNKA GAKUEN EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION, JAPAN Following on from Los Angeles in 2013, it was a great honor to host the 16th Annual Conference for the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI), which was held at Bunka Gakuen Educational Foundation in Tokyo, from January 27 until 31, 2014. This year’s set theme – “The Power of Fashion” – was chosen to inspire all delegates to think about how the power of fashion has evolved over time and the contribution it has made to build a better world for future generations. The conference proposed contributions from experts, academics and professionals all passionate about addressing the conference theme in its full entirety. Takeshi Hirouchi, Chairman of the Japan Apparel Fashion Industry Council, the Council of Industry-Academia Collaboration on Textiles and Fashion opened the official proceedings by outlining the prosperous outlook of the fashion business in Japan. Japan’s future role to play in the global fashion and apparel industry was then addressed by Susumu Kataoka, Director of Textile and Clothing Division Manufacturing Industries Bureau Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry. The following day, Japanese Designer duo Matohu, Bunka Fashion College alumni, Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi spoke about our current age of globalization and the importance of designers to search for a real originality within the aesthetics of one’s local culture. They were followed by Professor Zeshu Takamura of Bunka Gakuen University who spotlighted the current Japanese fashion which derived from ‘Japanese pop culture’. During the course of the conference a broad range of social; economic; business; industry; technology; culture; and educational subjects were focused upon with many academic paper presentations addressing the theme and the subsequent sub-themes which resulted in stimulating discussions and exchanging of ideas. Throughout the course of the conference