UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — Stitch Setting Chart Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. Utility stitches Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement Stitching Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot 1 Basic stitching, sewing gathers or 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes J Reverse No pintucks, etc. (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Left 2 Straight Basic stitching and sewing 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes J Reinforcement Yes stitch gathers or pintucks (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) 3 Attaching zippers, basic 3.5 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes J/I stitching, sewing gathers or Reverse No (1/8) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Center pintucks, etc. 4 Attaching sleeves, sewing 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes Triple stretch stitch J inseams, sewing stretch fabrics Reinforcement No (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) and decorative stitching 5 Sewing stretch fabrics and 1.0 1.0–3.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes Stretch stitch J Reinforcement No decorative stitching (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) 6 0.0 0.0–7.0 Basting stitch J Temporarily securing – – No Reinforcement No (0) (0–1/4) 7 Overcasting and attaching 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 Yes J Reverse No appliqués (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) (J) Zigzag Center stitch 8 Beginning sewing from the right 3.5 2.5–5.0 1.4 0.3–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement Yes needle position (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Right 9 Overcasting on mediumweight 2-point 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes J or stretch fabrics, attaching Reinforcement Yes zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) elastic, darning, etc. 10 Overcasting on mediumweight 3-point 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes J or stretch fabrics, attaching Reinforcement No zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) elastic, darning, etc. 11 Overcasting on thin or 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 G No Reinforcement No mediumweight fabrics (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) 12 5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 G Overcasting on thick fabrics No Reinforcement No (3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) 13 Overcasting on thick fabrics and 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 G No Reinforcement No decorative stitching (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Overcasting stitch 14 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes J Overcasting on stretch fabrics Reinforcement No (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J) 15 Overcasting on thick or stretch 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J) 16 Overcasting on stretch fabrics 4.0 0.0–7.0 4.0 1.0–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No and decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16) (J) 70 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement Stitching Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot 17 Blind hem stitching on 2.0 1.0–3.5 R 00 3← – →3 No Reinforcement No mediumweight fabrics (1/16) (1/16–1/8) Blind hem stitch 18 Blind hem stitching on stretch 2.0 1.0–3.5 R 00 3← – →3 No Reinforcement No fabrics (1/16) (1/16–1/8) 19 3.5 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Yes Appliqué stitch J Appliqué stitching Reinforcement No (1/8) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) 20 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0 Yes Shell tuck stitch J Shell tuck stitching Reinforcement No (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Piecing straight stitching (with a 21 seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 5.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0 J No Reinforcement No inch) from the right edge of the (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) presser foot) Piecing straight stitch Piecing straight stitching (with a 3 22 seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 1.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0 J No Reinforcement Yes inch) from the left edge of the (1/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) presser foot) Straight stitch that 23 Straight stitch quilting that looks 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 looks hand-sewn J No Reinforcement No hand-sewn (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (for quilting) 24 Zigzag stitch Appliqué quilting, free-motion 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 J No Reinforcement Yes (for quilting) quilting, satin stitching (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) Appliqué stitch 25 1.5 0.5–3.5 1.8 1.0–4.0 J Attaching appliqués and binding No Reinforcement No (for quilting) (1/16) (1/32–1/8) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) Quilting stitch 26 Quilting background stitching 7.0 1.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 J No Reinforcement No (for stippling) (stippling) (1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) 27 5.0 2.5–7.0 0.5 0.1–1.0 Yes Satin scallop stitch N Scallop stitching Reinforcement No (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) (J) 28 Patchwork stitching and 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Patchwork stitching, decorative 29 stitching and sewing overcasting 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes Joining stitch J Reinforcement No on both pieces of fabric, such as (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) with tricot 30 Patchwork stitching and 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) 31 Smocking stitching and 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes Smocking stitch J Reinforcement No decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J) 32 Fagoting and decorative 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Fagoting stitch 33 Fagoting and decorative 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No stitching (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) 34 Elastic-attaching Attaching elastic to stretch 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes J Reinforcement No stitch fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Stitch Setting Chart 71 UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — Stitch Width Stitch Length Reverse/ Stitch Name Pattern Application [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reinforcement Stitching Presser Foot Presser Twin Needle Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot 35 4.0 0.0–7.0 3.0 2.0–4.0 J Decorative stitching No Reinforcement No (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) 36 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes J Decorative stitching Reinforcement No (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) 37 5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes J Decorative stitching Reinforcement No (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J) 38 Decorative stitching and 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes N Reinforcement No elastic-attaching (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Lace sewing, decorative 39 3.5 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 N hemming, heirloom stitching, No Reinforcement No (1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) etc. 40 Decorative hemming, heirloom 6.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0 N No Reinforcement No stitching, etc. (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) 41 Decorative hemming on thin, 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.5 1.5–4.0 Decorative stitch N mediumweight and plain weave No Reinforcement No (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.