Overberg Spatial Development Framework March 2004 9 HUMAN SETTLEMENT PATTERN 9.1 DESCRIPTION OF SETTLEMENTS Caledon is the capital town of the region with Bredasdorp being the seat of the ODM. This is, however, only of academic importance as none of the two towns has developed fully to its allocated status. Four magisterial districts lend independent status to Caledon, Hermanus, Bredasdorp and Swellendam. The sections below provide a brief description (in alphabetical order) of the main towns and villages in the ODM (refer to Figure 8). It is important to note that all of the following information regarding the description and history of the various towns is quoted from one source, namely the website of Overberg Tourism (www.capeoverberg.co.za). Figure 8: Settlements of the Overberg District Municipality. a) Arniston / Waenhuiskrans The fishing village of Arniston is situated near the southernmost tip of Africa, approximately 24 km south-east of Bredasdorp. The bay in which Waenhuiskrans/Arniston is situated was occupied before 1820 by fishermen, who called it Kassiesbaai. The name of the village was derived from a British ship, the Arniston, which was wrecked here in 1815. Waenhuiskrans refers to a large cavern that can only be reached at low tide. Older inhabitants claim that a wagon and a span of oxen could turn in the cave. Overberg District Municipality 31 Dennis Moss Partnership Inc. Overberg Spatial Development Framework March 2004 Kassiesbaai, a well-known and attractively restored fishing village and a national monument in its entirety, is situated at Arniston/Waenhuiskrans. The rugged coastline of the continental shelf dominates the fishing hamlet with its population of 600. Three archaeological areas of importance occur near Struispunt in the Waenhuiskrans Nature Reserve. There is a caravan park, a post office-cum- restaurant and a number of seaside chalets for lease. The Arniston hotel, built in 1935, has been expanded, renovated and Photo 3: Waenhuiskrans/Arniston (DMP). refurbished over the past 14 years. b) Barrydale Barrydale lies at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains approximately 250 km from Cape Town on route through Montuga to Oudtshoorn past Ladismith and Calitzdorp. The contrasts of the Klein Karoo surrounded by a fertile valley and the Tradouw Pass contributes to the fact that Barrydale is quite different from other towns and villages in the ODM. Produce of the area include apples, pears, plums and apricots which are dried locally and are all for the export market. Prize winning grapes are pressed at the local winery. New cultivars have been introduced and the Barrydale cellars have recently attracted attention, having produced an exceptional Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot. Major attractions include the Warmwaterberg Spa, about 27 km out on the road to Ladismith, the Kannaland Nature Reserve, Tradouw Pass and various hikes and walks through the natural vegetation. c) Betty’s Bay Betty’s Bay is situated adjacent the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve along the Clarence Drive Route (R44). This small village of holiday cottages dates from the 1930’s and was named after the daughter of a property developer. Major attractions include the Penguin Reserve at Stoney Point, which is the first penguin reserve on the South African mainland, and the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens. At Stony Point the remains of the Old Whaling Station, which was in operation from 1912 to 1930, can still be seen today. South Africa signed the treaty to ban whaling in 1976 and the mammals are starting to return. Overberg District Municipality 32 Dennis Moss Partnership Inc. Overberg Spatial Development Framework March 2004 d) Botriver The village of Botriver lies at the foothills of the Houw Hoek Mountains, next to the N2, on route to Hermanus and Caledon. Botriver is situated in one of the most fertile regions in the Southern Cape. The Khoi-Khoi tribes, who pastured their cattle here, called the river the 'Couga', which can be translated as 'rich in fat', or 'lots of butter'. Early European setters journeyed here to barter for barrels of butter and they adopted the Khoi name for the river, calling it first the Botter, then later the Botriver. The river rises south of the Theewaterskloof Dam and flows into a large lagoon, forming a marsh near its mouth, known as the Bot River Lagoon. The Bot River wetlands is home to thousands of waterfowl and South Africa's only herd of wild horses. e) Bredasdorp Bredasdorp is located in the southernmost region of the continent of Africa at the intersection of the R316, running from Caledon to Arniston, and the R319, running from Agulhas/Stuisbaai to Swellendam. Bredasdorp, South Africa's first "dorp", was established in 1838 by Michiel van Breda, the first mayor of Cape Town. Van Breda and another leading personality, Pieter Voltelyn van der Byl, could not agree where the Church should be built. As a result, two churches were built, and two towns, Bredasdorp and Napier, were established in 1838 (Cape Agulhas Tourism Bureau, 2001). Photo 4: Bredasdorp (DMP). All essential services are available in Bredasdorp. The establishment of Denel's Missile Test Range and the SA Air Force's Test Flight and Development Centre (TFDC) in the mid-eighties near Waenhuiskrans/Arniston, and the movement of the Overberg District Municipality's Head Office to Bredasdorp, accelerated the development of the town. The temperate mediterranean climate and limestone soil is favourable for stock-raising. Some of the best merino studs are to be found in the area. Wheat, barley, oats and dry- land lucerne are grown. Many Strandveld farmers have a substantial income from the export of wild flowers and provide employment to many people. A number of historic sites have been identified in Bredasdorp, amongst others, the Anglican Rectory and Hall, Rhenosterkop Farm, Mountain View (Kreupelhout Drive), and Springfield Farm. The old white milkwood tree, situated on the farm Rhenosterfontein, is reputed to be between 600 and 1 000 years old, and is regarded as being the largest identified example of the species (Ritchardson, 2001). The Heuningberg Nature Reserve is situated south of Bredasdorp. More than 270 plant species are protected in the reserve. At least 6 species are only found on the Overberg District Municipality 33 Dennis Moss Partnership Inc. Overberg Spatial Development Framework March 2004 Heuningberg range, e.g. the Bredasdorp Lily (Cytanthus guthriei) and the pincushin Leucospermum heterophylum. f) Caledon Caledon is the main local town of the ODM and is the seventh oldest town in South Africa. The town is located at the foot of the Klein Swartberg, next to the N2. Caledon owes it location to the presence of the hot water spring, which rise on the southern side of the mountain and which were used by the local Khoi Khoi long before they were discovered by white settlers early in the 18th century. Actual development started in 1710 when Ferdinand Appel secured a grant of the area on condition that he built a house to accommodate the sick. Seven springs of iron rich water originally bubbled to the surface, one of which was cold and the other six thermal. The thermal springs of Caledon are not related to volcanic activitiy. A unique feature of the water, besides its warm temperature, is that it's free of any organic matter and has a large amount of iron in solution. Samples of Caledon's mineral spring water were submitted in 1893 to the greatest exhibition of the time, the Chicago World Fair. The water was awarded first prize as one of the world's top quality mineral waters. Caledon is situated in a stable agricultural area, which produces barley, wheat and wool. Between 1817 and 1840 Caledon witnessed a rural revolution with the conversion of the local Afrikaner sheep to the wool-bearing Merino. The fine wool produced by the new breed brought unprecedented wealth to what had been almost entirely a subsistence farming area. Although sheep continue to play an important role in the farming economy, grain crops, and particularly barley, which is used in the production of malt for the beer industry, now contribute significantly to the wealth of the area. Southern Associated Maltsters have the largest malt-producing plant in the Southern Hemisphere. Due to its long history various national monuments can be found in Caledon, such as the Anglican Church (Holy Trinity Church, 1855), Georgian Cottage, Bad River Bridge (1866) and Mill Street, which is, declared a Conservation Area. g) Elim The Elim mission station was founded in 1824 and is only inhabited by members of the Moravian Church. On 12 May 1824 Bishop Hallbeck of the Moravian Church acquired the 2 570 ha farm Vogelfontein (bird fountain) from Johannes Schonken. On Ascension Thursday, 12 May 1825, the name was changed to Elim, meaning palm trees. The mission station was established around the original farmhouse built in 1796 by a Huguenot named Louis du Toit. A substantial church became the pivot of the settlement and is the only monument to commemorate the freeing of the slaves in 1834. The entire town has been declared a National Monument and has also been identified as a historic site (Ritchardson, 2001). The church has the oldest working clock in South Africa (more than 200 years old). Elim also features a Slave Monument, dedicated to the emancipation of slaves on 1 December 1938. Overberg District Municipality 34 Dennis Moss Partnership Inc. Overberg Spatial Development Framework March 2004 The Geelkop Nature Reserve near Elim is renowned for the rare dwarf Elim Fynbos and is home to more than 200 plant species of which more than 13 are on the Red Data List. The vegetation of Geelkop comprises mainly of Elim Fynbos together with Acid Sand Fynbos.