The Jizera Mountains are situated in the north of the Czech Republic, between the Lužice Mountains and the Ještěd Ridge in the west, and the Krkonoše Mountains in the east. They have always formed a border line of Bohemia. Their rounded tops are mostly of granite, however, sometimes basalt volcanic rock may be found. The best known of the basalt places is named Bukovec (1005 m): it is considered a European natural wonder. Due to impermeable granite bedrock and abundant precipitation, the plateaus in the central part of the Jizera Mountains are characteristic with peat bogs and rare marsh flora. The highest peak is called Wysoka Kopa (Tall Heap, 1127 m, in Poland). The highest peak in Bohemia is Smrk (Spruce, 1124 m). Since many areas are natural preserves, in 1967 the Protected Area of Jizera Mountains was declared. The status means that the residual virgin forest, extensive peat bogs, rare vegetation and wildlife might be saved for future generations. However, the original leaved trees can be found at several locations only, and the prevailing woody plant is spruce. The forest richness became the foundation for the fame of glass industry. The glassworks in Sklenařice is first men- tioned in 1376 already. Farming has always been a hard job in the mountainous region, so people used to earn their bread from cutting trees, working hard to have fuel and raw materials; later glass manufacture and textile pro- duction were developed, becoming the main activities then. Thus, the first manufactories, workshops and first factories were established in the border region much ear- lier than in inland areas. Although the settlement in the valleys along the rivers and streams was rather dense, most of the region stayed uninhabited and quiet, with incredibly clean air and wa- ter. However, air pollution in the 1970s, originating from emissions produced by thermal plants in (former) Demo- cratic Germany and Poland, heavily damaged the forests. JIZERA MOUNTAINS If they had died, the water system would have been de- Dear Friends, stroyed as well. Fortunately, at the beginning of 90s, thanks We would like to invite you to see and enjoy the beauty to the decision by the German government the obsolete of the Area of Tanvald. You will find the town of Tanvald plants were closed, and the Polish thermal plants were re- surrounded with 11 villages and little towns at the foot of constructed, so the disaster was stopped. Adaptable trees the Jizera Mountains, mostly located some 500 m above were planted throughout the region instead of the spruce the sea level. The local tourist areas are attractive at any time of the year. In winter, there are tens of kilometres of cross-country skiing trails, many ski slopes and ski lifts, while in spring, summer and autumn hikers and bikers love to come. Today’s Jizera Mountains, this is a real symbiosis of si- lence and mystery supported by modern tourist business. There are choices of sports challenge, relaxation and dis- covery. Let us explore interesting places – but... do not rush: just relax and observe. Petr Polák Mayor of Tanvald and Area of Tanvald monoculture previously damaged by the emissions and insects, and the Jizera Mountains are slowly getting the previous natural appearance. Due to the tree cutting and removal from the plateaus, roads were built, now used by tourists and bikers. Thanks to not very steep slopes, hundreds of kilometres of tour- ist trails, dams, rock viewpoints, and lookout towers, the Jizera Mountains have become a popular recreational des- tination. The terrain and climatic conditions are favour- able, so people come to see the mountains even in winter. There are well-equipped sports centres not only under the top of Ještěd and in Bedřichov, but Severák, Špičák of Tanvald and Harrachov are popular as well. In addi- The name of the Jizera Mountains is derived from the Jizera River. Its most important branch, called the Ka- menice, takes most of the water throughout the Area of Tanvald. This is why the River Kamenice was chosen to be our guide to the towns and villages located along its banks. Let us lead you, following the stream, to have a break here and there or turn aside for a while, and get to know the natural, historical or cultural places – they are really worth seeing! When the Kamenice brings us along the Palacký Trail to tion, there are tens of ski jumps and plenty of ski lifts, and the southern border of the Area of Tanvald, we will turn cross-country trails as well. The towns situated in the Jizera back to the town of Tanvald and set out northeast by Mountains are not industrial centres focused on traditional train, a unique cog railway. Wading the water, wiping glass, textile or jewel production anymore. Thanks to the dew off the rails, crossing on the bike or by car – wel- developing tourism, they have been recognised valuable come and enjoy. starting points to enjoy the areas of peace, silence and HAVE A NICE JOURNEY! original natural character. JIZERA MOUNTAINS AREA OF TANVALD JOSEFŮV DŮL Josefův Důl (Joseph’s Hollow) was founded in 1701 and Jedlový důl named after Josef, the son of the owner, Karel Josef Des- fourse. The place can boast a glass-making tradition. The natural preserve Jedlový Důl (Fir Hollow) is From the 17th century until 1910, there was a famous crossed by an educational trail, explaining the im- Zenkner´s Glass Factory. Later the Kamenická Factory portance of the fauna and vegetation of this area. was built (still existing today), and in 1904 the company The Jedlová Rivulet brings water from peat bogs up of Karl Riedel built the Maxovská Glass Factory. there at Čihadlo. In the middle of a romantic gorge, a three-cascade waterfall named Jedlové was crea- ted. Along the waterbed, a trail is led from Hujerův Kout (Hujer Corner), under the Pekelné Skály (Hell Rock) and past Pekelná Tůně (Hell Pool). The Jedlová Rivulet was originally called Tann (Tann- wasser in German). Once it was called Kamenná Voda (Stony Water – maybe for the boulder and rocky bottom). Today, the village is rather a recreational centre. The big- gest attraction is a single-aisle pseudo-Gothic Church of Transformation (built 1862-1865). Nearby, you can find a commemorative stone dedicated to a countryman named Gustav Leutelt (1869-1947), a writer and a headmaster of local school. His writings about the Jizera Mountains are full of love and understanding. There are eleven oaks along the road and – considering the local climate – they are really valuable. If you climb up to the Attached to Josefův Důl are (formerly separated) villages: Antonínov Originally a glass-industry centre on the left bank, to- day fully integrated to Josefův Důl. First mentioned in 1697, it was named after another son of Count Desfourse (Anthony). Karlov The village was founded in the valley of Tichá Rivulet (1701-1703). It was named after the same son of Count Desfourse as the village of Josefův Důl. One of the four ”true forest glassworks” named Karlovská used to be here. Near the road, you will find a famous pilgrimage point, highest part of the village called Peklo (Hell, founded in the Chapel of Visitation with a well, believed to contain 1780), you pass the Nebe Hotel. Above the little road, miraculous healing water. you will hit a cave named Kamenná Komora (Stone Dolní Maxov Chamber), which is a wonderful place indeed. The (nowadays recreational) village (1670) was named after Albrecht Maxmillian Desfourse. Visitors usually admire lo- The rock on the top of Jusl Hill in Peklo was given railings cal wooden cottages. Early in the 18th century, there was and became a frequently visited lookout point. Looking a blacksmith Andreas Kuntze, nicknamed Brechsmied, down, you will see a huge dam of Josefův Důl, built from whose entrepreneurial spirit was considered a result of 1976 to 1982 as a protection against floods by the water his alliance with devil. At the place where he allegedly of the Kamenice River. Provided with special technology, signed the devilish contract, the Brechsmied Chapel was it is used as a potable water reservoir as well. built (19th century). WHERE THE KAMENICE RIVER FLOWS WHERE THE KAMENICE WHERE THE HELL IS HIGHER THAN SKY JIŘETÍN POD BUKOVOU The most frequent rock formation in the Jizera Moun- tains is granite. Its weathering influenced the shapes of First mentioned in 1654, the rock formations. On tops of many granite rocks, you the village is situated at can notice deep bowls, once mistakenly called sacrificial the foot of Buková Moun- altars. Rarely, you may hit volcanic rock heaped on the tain. It was named after surface – basalt, for example. the first settler George Jiřetín is connected to the name of Daniel Swarowski, Krezczinger (Georgthal, the founder of the glass factory known worldwide (the Jiřetín in Czech). In 1850, company now operating in Austria). Jiřetín was associated to town of Smržovka, de- clared a self-governing village in 1992. The first Buková Mountain (836 m) inhabitants lived on cut- ting trees, work in the Buková Mountain is one of rare volcanic rock (basalt) fields and cattle breed- in the Jizera Mountains. The basalt magma penetrat- ing; later the glass-ma- ed through cracked granite body during the Tertiary nufacture developed. period, creating alkaline rock outcrop in the middle According to some historical documents, there was a glass of acid granite, thus conditions for richer vegeta - factory between Jiřetín and Antonínov in the 17th cen- tion – beech wood with flowerbed underneath. To- tury already. day, spruce wood is prevailing, and the geological Unfortunately, we have no details about it.