©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand Vietnam p48 Laos p288 Northern Thailand p401 Cambodia p178 Phillip Tang Tim Bewer, Greg Bloom, Austin Bush, Nick Ray, Richard Waters, China Williams PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to the VIETNAM . 48 Vinh Long . 154 Mekong Region . 4 Hanoi . 49 Can Tho . 154 Vietnam, Cambodia, Chau Doc . 156 Laos & Northern Ninh Binh . .. 69 Thailand Map . 6 Tam Coc . 70 Ha Tien . 156 Vietnam , Cambodia, Cuc Phuong Rach Gia . 157 Laos & Northern National Park . 70 Phu Quoc Island . 157 Thailand Top 20 . 8 Halong Bay . 71 Understand Vietnam . 162 Need to Know . 18 Halong City . 72 Survival Guide . 168 If You Like… . 20 Cat Ba Island . 73 Month by Month . 23 Haiphong . 77 CAMBODIA . 178 Itineraries . 26 Ba Be National Park . 78 Phnom Penh . 179 Outdoor Adventures . 34 Mai Chau . 79 Kirirom National Park . 201 Travel with Children . 43 Lao Cai . 79 Phnom Chisor . 203 Countries at a Glance . 45 Bac Ha . 80 Phnom Tamao Sapa . 81 Wildlife Rescue Centre . .203 Dien Bien Phu . 85 Tonlé Bati . 204 Phong Nha-Ke Udong . .. 204 Bang National Park . 87 NAIHEI / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / NAIHEI Siem Reap . 204 Hue . 89 Ang Trapeng Around Hue . 100 Thmor Reserve . 216 Danang . 102 Floating Village Hoi An . 106 of Chong Kneas . 216 Around Hoi An . 114 Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary . 217 Cham Islands . 114 Temples of Angkor . 218 Quy Nhon . 115 Angkor Wat . 218 Nha Trang . 116 Angkor Thom . 219 Mui Ne . 123 Further Afield . 226 RICE FIELDS, Con Dao Islands . 126 Banteay Chhmar . 227 NORTHERN VIETNAM P71 Dalat . 128 Battambang . 228 Cat Tien National Park . 133 Around Battambang . 235 TRAVELSTOCK44 - JUERGEN HELD / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / HELD JUERGEN - TRAVELSTOCK44 Ho Chi Minh Prasat Preah City (Saigon) . 134 Vihear Province . 236 Dai Nam Theme Park . 151 Kompong Thom . 237 Beaches . 152 Kompong Cham Cu Chi . 152 & Around . 239 Mekong Delta . 152 Kratie . 241 Bac Lieu . 152 Stung Treng . 243 My Tho . 152 Mondulkiri Province . .. 245 Ben Tre . 153 Ratanakiri Province . 247 BANTEAY SREI (P226), ANGKOR, CAMBODIA Contents UNDERSTAND Koh Kong City . 251 NORTHERN The Mekong Koh Kong Conservation THAILAND . 401 Region Today . 510 Corridor . 254 Bangkok . 404 History . 512 Sihanoukville . .. 255 Ko Samet . 436 People & Culture . 527 The Southern Islands . 263 Trat . 439 Kampot . 266 Ko Chang . 442 Around Kampot . 270 Nakhon Ratchasima Kep . 271 (Khorat) . 447 Understand Cambodia . 275 Around Nakhon Survival Guide . 280 Ratchasima . 450 SURVIVAL Khao Yai National Park . .. 450 GUIDE LAOS . 288 Phanom Rung & Around . 451 Vientiane . 289 Ubon Ratchathani . 452 Border Crossings . 536 Phu Khao Khuay National Protected Area (NPA) . 304 Mukdahan . 455 Directory A–Z . 539 Ang Nam Ngum . 308 Nakhon Phanom . 456 Transport . 548 Vang Vieng . .. 309 Nong Khai . 458 Health . 552 Luang Prabang . 315 Nong Khai to Loei . 461 Language . 557 Loei . 462 Pak Ou Caves . 327 Index . 567 Chiang Khan . 463 Tat Kuang Si . 327 Map Legend . 575 Tat Sae . 328 Chiang Mai . 465 Xieng Khuang Chiang Dao . 477 & Hua Phan Provinces . .328 Tha Ton . 478 Muang Ngoi District . 336 Pai . 479 Northwestern Laos . 340 Sukhothai . 482 Phongsali Province . 347 Chiang Rai . 486 Middle Mekong . 350 Golden Triangle . 490 Bolikhamsai & Chiang Khong . 493 Khammuan Provinces . 355 Nan . 494 SPECIAL FEATURES Savannakhet Province . .. 363 Understand Thailand . 497 Champasak Province . 368 Survival Guide . 502 Hue’s Imperial Enclosure Pakse Region . 378 3D Illustration . 92 Si Phan Don (Four Temples of Angkor Thousand Islands) . 379 3D Illustration . 220 Bolaven Plateau Region . 385 Wat Phra Kaew & Understand Laos . 388 Grand Palace Survival Guide . 393 3D Illustration . 406 Wat Pho 3D Illustration . 408 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 LENA SERDITOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / SERDITOVA LENA Plan Your Trip Itineraries HANOI #_ É MYANMAR f# (BURMA) Halong Bay CHINA LAOS Hainan É É •# Hue É •# Hoi An THAILAND #– S O U T H C H I N A S E A É É VIETNAM Temples É Siem BANGKOK #_ of Angkor •#•# Reap CAMBODIA Battambang •# f# •# PHNOM Nha Trang É PENH #_ É É •# f# É Mui Ne Gulf of •# •# Thailand Chau Doc Ho Chi f# É Mekong •# Minh City Delta (Saigon) 2 WEEKS The Classic the boat trip from Siem Reap to colonial- Traverse the fertile belly of the region, flavoured Battambang is not to be taking in the Mekong’s metropolises and missed. From Battambang continue south its most iconic sight, Angkor Wat. by bus to experience the contrasts of Phnom Penh, then make your way Like many Southeast Asian journeys, yours to Ho Chi Minh City by bus or boat via begins in Bangkok. Acclimatise with the Chau Doc and the Mekong Delta. sights, sounds, smells and divine culinary flavours of the City of Angels before flying Now you’re ready for some beach time. Take a bus to or on or taking a bus to Siem Reap, gateway to Mui Ne Nha Trang the incredible temples of Angkor. the South China Sea, then fly north to Hanoi – or meander overland via the See the mother of all temples, Angkor historical hubs of Hoi An and Hue if Wat, the world’s largest religious building; you have time. Wind up with some sea- the Bayon, with its enigmatic faces; and kayaking or a boat cruise among the jungle-clad Ta Prohm. In the wet season, karsts in Halong Bay. 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES ), Vietnam 71 Halong Bay (p 28 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES CHINA Sapa É #• Bac Ha #• É Dien Bien É VIETNAM MYANMAR #• (BURMA) Luang Phu Namtha É Cat Ba #• #_ HANOI Bokeo Nong #•Mai Island Nature ÷# Nam #• É Chau #• Khiaw É Reserve ÷#Ha #• É É #f Lan Ha É Gibbon NPA #• Tha Ton Experience Vieng Bay #• É #• Xai H A L O N G #• Chiang B AY Pai É Luang #• Rai Prabang LAOS É #• Chiang Mai THAILAND 29 TPM13THX / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / TPM13THX 4 WEEKS Highland Adventure This itinerary takes you from northern Thailand to Halong Bay, Vietnam, via PLAN YOUR TRIP the rugged and thrilling northern route. Traversing the Mekong’s highest mountains, you’ll get up close and personal with colourful hill tribes and have a range of outdoor adventures at your disposal. Start in Chiang Mai, where every activity IT I known to athletes – mountain biking, kayaking, NERAR abseiling, trekking, ziplining – has a following. Take the winding road to Pai, a mountain retreat I that proves the hippie trail is alive and well. Then ES head on to Tha Ton, the entry point for boat trips down to Chiang Rai, itself a good base for responsible trekking. Cross into Laos and check out the Gibbon Experience at Bokeo Nature Reserve before continuing east to Luang Nam- tha for trekking, cycling, or rafting in and around the Nam Ha National Protected Area (NPA). Head south to beautiful Luang Prabang on the banks of the Mekong to soak up the culture, before boomeranging north once more to explore the karst-laden wonderland of the Nam Ou (Ou River) on a boat ride or kayak trip out of Nong Khiaw. From here an adventurous overland trail runs east to Vietnam via Vieng Xai and the Pathet Lao caves, a sort of Cu Chi Tunnels cast GIL.K / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / GIL.K in stone. Once over the border in Mai Chau, try the northwest loop through Dien Bien Phu to experience incredible scenery and some of the country’s most dramatic mountain passes. Sapa, an old French hill station, is the gate- way to the minority communities of this region. Consider a side trip to Bac Ha, home to the colourful Flower Hmong folk and great walking country. Head south to Hanoi, where you’ll ap- preciate that you bought your ethnic souvenirs directly from the minority people and not in the designer boutiques of the Old Quarter. Still haven’t had your fill of adventure? Set off for Halong Bay. Take to the waters of Lan Ha Bay by local boat to see the ‘new’ Halong Bay without the tourists. Boating, kayaking and Robinson Crusoe–style camping are pos- sible here, and there are some beautiful hidden coves. Then leave the water behind and head to the spectacular limestone outcrops of Cat Ba . Experienced craggers will find challeng- Top: Rafting, Chiang Mai (p465), Thailand Island Bottom: Hmong woman and child, Bac Ha (p80), Vietnam ing routes here, and there’s instruction avail- able for novice climbers as well. 30 INTREKERS / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / INTREKERS 6 Mekong River WEEKS Meander This trip follows the famous river downstream from northern Laos all the way to its terminus in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta. En route you’ll encounter a wide range of landscapes, cultures and adventures as you slice through all four countries of the Mekong region. Leave behind the bustle of Bangkok and make a beeline for Chiang Rai near the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand converge. Crossing the Mekong into Laos at Huay Xai is like stepping back in time. Take a slowboat down the Me- kong to Luang Prabang, stopping overnight in Pak Beng. Soak up the magic before leaving the river for some relaxation in Vang Vieng. Continue to Vientiane and reunite with the mighty waterway. The Lao capital is a sleepy place with some great cafes, restaurants and bars – which you won’t be encountering for a while after here. Board a bus and follow the river southeast, stopping off in Tha Khaek and Savannakhet before arriving in Pakse. Visit the imposing Khmer sanctuary of Wat Phu Champasak, in the shadow of Linga- parvata Mountain; explore the waterfalls and villages of the Bolaven Plateau; or enjoy the laid-back islands of Si Phan Don.