University of Rhode Island DigitalCommons@URI Open Access Master's Theses 2005 The Abrasiveness of Sheer Overlay Fabrics Used in Textile Conservation Donna Fulkerson LaVallee University of Rhode Island Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.uri.edu/theses Recommended Citation Fulkerson LaVallee, Donna, "The Abrasiveness of Sheer Overlay Fabrics Used in Textile Conservation" (2005). Open Access Master's Theses. Paper 668. https://digitalcommons.uri.edu/theses/668 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by DigitalCommons@URI. It has been accepted for inclusion in Open Access Master's Theses by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@URI. For more information, please contact [email protected]. THE ABRASIVENESS OF SHEER OVERLAY FABRICS USED JN TEXTILE CONSERVATION BY DONNA FULKERSON LAV ALLEE \. A THESIS SUBMITIED IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF SCIENCE IN TEXTILES, FASHION MERCHANDISING, AND DESIGN UNIVERSITY OF RHODE ISLAND 2005 MASTERS OF SCIENCE THESIS \ OF DONNA F. LAV ALLEE APPROVED: Thesis Committee: Major Professor DEAN OF THE GRADUATE SCHOOL UNIVERSITY OF RHODE ISLAND 2005 ABSTRACT Fragile fabrics in textile collections are subject to deterioration due to use, exhibition, and improper storage conditions. Textile conservators often sew sheer fabrics as overlays directly over weakened fabrics to protect them from abrasion and to help maintain the integrity of the objects. Conservators rely on subjective opinions about fabric properties in choosing materials for their overlay treatments because '- objective data are not available. Textile properties, such as abrasiveness, of sheer overlay fabrics play a role in the success of conservation treatments over time. A survey of textile conservators provided data about the u,se of overlay fabrics including criteria for selection and type of objects being treated. Cross tabulation of the data revealed trends in the use of sheer overlay fabrics. Eleven fabrics were purchased from retailers. Properties, such as yarn type and woven or knit structure, were described, and eleven different textile performance tests were run. Nylon net was significantly more abrasive than polyester georgette and polyester English net. Three nylon nets were the sheerest fabrics. Other properties of sheer overlay fabrics measured in this research included cover, gloss, weight, thickness, surface roughness, coefficient of friction, elongation, electrostatic cling, and stiffness. Photomicrographs of fabrics and a summary table of specific fabric properties provide textile conservators with valuable information to use when selecting overlay fabrics. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank the entire staff of the Textiles, Fashion Merchandising, and Design Department at the University of Rhode Island. I would especially like to thank Dr. Margaret Ordonez for her passion for the topic and her support for my research. I would also like to thank her for providing the Oxford commas so liberally sprinkled throughout this manuscript. I truly appreciate Dr. Martin Bide's common \. sense and cheerfulness throughout this project. My gratitude to Valerie Morgan­ Addison who helped me keep ahead of the bureaucracy. Thanks to Dr. Catherine English for her assistance with the statistics and for her participation on the committee and to Dr. Alfred Ordonez for his advice on all matters statistical. I appreciate the efforts of Dr. Patricia Annis, University of Georgia, Dr. Barbara Scruggs, University of North Carolina and Sebastien Breugnot, Bossa Nova Tech who gave their expertise, time, staff, and equipment to this project. Many thanks to my good friend and editor, Marina O'Connor. Many, many thanks go to Courtland and Leslianne LaVallee for their support during my years at the University of Rhode Island and especially during the months of thesis writing. Financial assistance was provided through the Graduate Programs Fund of the University of Rhode Island College of Human Science and Services. lll TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE ABSTRACT ....................................................................................................... ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ................................................................................ iii TABLE OF CONTENTS ................................................................................... .iv LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................... viii \. LIST OF FIGURES .................. ~ .......................................................................... x CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION .................................................................................... l 2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE Sheer Fabric Overlays in Conservation and Restoration ...................... 5 Quilts ......................................................................................... 7 Flags .......................................................................................... 8 Costume ................................................................................... 11 Archeological Textiles ............................................................. 11 Household Furnishings ............................................................. 12 Objects with Missing Parts ....................................................... 14 Effect of Exhibition and Storage Conditions on Textiles ................... 15 Stretch due to Gravitational Forces ........................................... 15 Dimensional Change Due to Temperature and Humidity .......... 17 Airborne Pollutant Damage ...................................................... 19 Pressure Mount Framing .......................................................... 20 Studies of Abrasiveness of Textiles Used in Conservation ................ 21 IV CHAPTER PAGE Crockmeter Abrasion Tests ...................................................... 21 Abrasion Resistance Testing .................................................... 23 Analysis of Single Fiber Transfer ............................................ 25 Research on Physical and Mechanical Properties of Fabric ............... 26 Physical Properties of Fabrics .................................................. 26 Cover .............................................................................. 26 \. Reflectance, Including Luster and Gloss .......................... 27 Knitted Fabric Structures ................................................. 29 Fabric Finishes .................................................... :........... 31 Mechanical Properties ofFabrics .............................................. 32 Abrasion Resistance and Abrasiveness ............................ 32 Friction ........ ." ................................................................... 38 Fabric Hand, Including Stiffness and Surface Roughness.40 Elongation ....................................................................... 42 Electrostatic Cling ........................................................... 43 3. MATERIALS AND METHODS ........................................................... .45 Survey ............................................................................................. 45 Fabric ............................................................................................... 46 Yam Characteristics ......................................................................... 56 Fabric Structure ................................................................................ 58 Standard Testing ............................................................................... 60 v CHAPTER PAGE Non-Standard Testing ....................................................................... 62 Cover ...... ................................................................................ 62 Gloss ........................................................................................ 64 Coefficient of Friction and Surface Roughness ......................... 64 Abrasiveness ............................................................................ 66 \. Statistical Analysis ............................................................................ 69 4. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION ............................ ......... .. ...................... 71 Physical Properties of Fabrics ........................................................... 71 Weight ..................................................................................... 71 Thickness ................................................................................. 74 Fabric Count ............................................................................ 78 Cover ....................................................................................... 83 Gloss ........................................................................................ 86 Mechanical Properties of Fabrics ...................................................... 88 Abrasiveness ............................................................................ 88 Coefficient of Friction .............................................................. 97 Surface Roughness ................................................................. I 04 Elongation .............................................................................. 111 Electrostatic Cling .................................................................. 120 Stiffness ................................................................................. 125 Overall Performance