3 [ OLTRECASELLO] beyond the tollgate TRIESTE LISERT GUIDES BY AUTOVIE VENETE Autovie Venete 0432 925111 - 040 3189235 www.autovie.it Design and implementation: © Echo Comunicazione d’Impresa Milano [email protected] - www.echocom.it Editorial coordination: Alessia Spigariol Graphics design: Lorenzo Paolo Sdraffa Interactive english version: Altrementi Adv Illustrations: Enrico Gisana Translations: Rossella Mainardis/RB First issue: November 2014 In consideration of the particular characteristics of the Internet, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any changes of addresses and contents of the sites mentioned herein. Editors: Mara Bon (Food, Wine and Typical produce, Lunches and dinners, Shopping) is a journalist, with a passion for art and food. She has published several articles on the culture of food and wine for daily, weekly, monthly and field guide magazines and has edited studies of social-economic surveys, tour- ist marketing and geographical analysis for various boards. Christian Seu (The Land, Historical and artistic routes) is a freelance jour- nalist, ANSA correspondent for Gorizia Province and collaborates with daily newspaper Messagero Veneto. He has been Press officer in Gorizia and communications manager of nu- merous cultural events in the capital town of this area. In the past, he col- laborated with the daily newspaper Il Piccolo and Radio Gorizia 1 and is co- owner of the communications Studio Area12. We thank Turismo FVG and Autovie Venete Press Office for their collabora- tion. All photos in this Guide are courtesy of Turismo FVG Archives, except those on pages 72-73, 87, 103, which are courtesy of Autovie Venete archives. Information office Trieste Turismo FVG: Infopoint FVG Piazza Orologio 1, angolo Piazza Unità d’Italia 34121 Trieste Tel. +39 040 3478312 / Fax +39 040 3478320 [email protected] OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT [ INDEX] 1.THE LAND CENTRAL EUROPE AND CULTURE SOME HISTORY WATER AND ROCKS 2. HISTORY AND ART ITINERARIES DUINO FALESIE NATURAL RESERVE DUINO CASTLE GRIGNANO MIRAMARE CASTLE TRIESTE FARO DELLA VITTORIA PIAZZA UNITÀ D’ITALIA AND LE RIVE SAN GIUSTO CATHEDRAL THE SYNAGOGUE SAN SPIRIDIONE TEMPLE IL BORGO TERESIANO TRIESTE AND ITS CAFÉS OPICINA TRAMWAY VIALE XX SETTEMBRE RISIERA DI SAN SABBA FOIBA DI BASOVIZZA MUSEO REVOLTELLA MUSEO FERROVIARIO BARCOLA PROMENADE / 4 / INDEX MUGGIA IL BORGO CASTELLO DI MUGGIA 3.FOOD, WINE AND TYPICAL PRODUCE COSMOPOLITAN CUISINE, PORT OF DIVERSE CULTURES WINES WITH LAND AND SEA BOUQUETS DISCOVERING TYPICAL PRODUCE 4.LUNCHES AND DINNERS SAVOGNA D’ISONZO TRATTORIA LOKANDA DEVETAK DOBERDÒ DEL LAGO HOTEL RISTORANTE PAHOR DUINO-AURISINA Alla DAMA BIANCA AGRITURISMO AL Pescaturismo GRAN OSTERIA TRE NOCI Trattoria SARDOC LE TORRI DI SLIVIA SGONICO RISTORANTE Savron ENOTECA SGONICO MONRUPINO HOTEL RISTORANTE KRIZMAN / 5 / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT TRIESTE BUFFET DA PEPI BUFFET L’APPRODO RISTORANTE Bagutta TRIESTINO BUFFET BIRRERIA DA RUDY (Spaten) BUFFET DA SIORA ROSA VECIO BUFFET Marascutti 1914 Trattoria NERODISEPPIA ANTIPASTOTECA DI MARE «Alla VOLIGA» OSTERIA DA MARINO OSTERIA AI MAESTRI BAR Trattoria «AL GUANACO» Hostaria AI 3 MAGNONI ANTICA Trattoria SUBAN RISTORANTE SCABAR AGRITURISMO GRGIC IGOR MUGGIA Trattoria Risorta OSTERIA DE TONI 5.SHOPPING DUINO-AURISINA CANTINA ZIDARICH AZIENDA Agricola SKERK AZIENDA agricola KANTE AZIENDA agricola RADOVIC DI NEVO E Flavia RADOVIC AZIENDA agricola ANTONIC / 6 / INDEX SGONICO ART Hrovatin KAJZER MARMI fattoria CARSICA BAJta DI SKERLJ slavko E C. AZIENDA AGRITURISTICA MILIC TRIESTE SALUMERIA SARTORI Alimentazione BM SALUMARE QUI gatta CI cova CAFFÈ Vatta VIDALI ERIK ROSSO DI FERRO IL GIULIA LE TORRI D’EUROPA MUGGIA PASTICCERIA TRIESTINA ULCIGRAI BIRRA ARTIGIANALE CAMPAGNOLO MONTEDORO FREE TIME SEZANA VINAKRAS / 7 / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT Dear Client, The motorway you are driving on crosses two Regions; their in- dustrious inhabitants have branded themselves with creativity, en- trepreneurship, dynamic spirit, and availability to trade with other markets and this route contributes towards reciprocal market ease of access. In the past these lands lived through the emigration of thousands of people heading to other countries and continents but today our motorway sees men and women coming to search for work in our country. Road transport has become the most used means of transport since the post-war years and motorways are essential to ease the flow of people and goods. Analyses of these flows allow us to make interesting quantitative forecasts as well as important sociological evaluations. They show that travellers’ profiles, des- tinations and reasons for travelling have changed over the years. In the same way, markets impose increasingly competitive demands on commercial carriers to deliver as many products as possible in the shortest possible time. Often, when we overtake trucks and glance at their number plates, it is hard to recognise their origins, proving that current travel scopes and distances inconceivable a few years ago are now totally possible. Southbound goods and people from Eastern and Central Europe travel along this motorway, thus significantly increasing flows. We have therefore allocated massive resources to technological improvements aimed at safe travel. The safety of travellers on Autovie Venete motorways is a qual- ity standard of utmost importance and the services offered to our clients are continuously being evaluated and improved. However, / 8 / FOREWORD we have achieved this result also thanks to the collaboration of our clients. Rest is essential to safe travelling and even a short stop may often avoid the risk of fatigue or may simply break the tension after hours behind the steering wheel. These breaks are an integral part of our journey and our wish is that you enjoy this aspect of your travelling. Our motorway, which starts in Mestre in the Veneto region, and after a few kilometres winds through Friuli right up to Trieste, on the eastern border of our country, crosses places of great interest. We have compiled this Guide to highlight the history, culture, art and produce of our regions. It provides short itineraries near the tollgates where you can enjoy a break surrounded by beauties that can only be imagined or fleetingly glimpsed while driving along the motorway. I hope that you partake of short yet stimulating itiner- aries to rest and relax and then peacefully set off again taking with you the memories of having encountered hospitable people, tasted unique flavours and visited unforgettable places. I hope that this Guide will become your indispensable travel com- panion and will remind you of our heritage, culture and the North Eastern corner of Italy. EMILIO TERPIN PRESIDENT OF AUTOVIE VENETE / 9 / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT The editorial project Oltrecasello aris- es from a mere thought: we spend long hours on the motorway to reach work- places, people and places. Our trips may be long or short. In the past, these were often necessities rather than op- portunities. [ GUIDE TO THE GUIDE] Deep in our own thoughts, focussed on our driving and our objective or des- tination, plugged into earphones and Bluetooth, distracted by music and news broadcasts, talking to fellow pas- sengers, worried about the traffic and the delay that constantly persists, we drive on. We go on without being aware of what we are driving past, without the curiosity of understanding, admiring and getting to know more. / 10 / GUIDE TO THE GUIDE The Guides Oltrecasello by Autovie Venete wish to char- acterise our trips in a different way by leading us, through brief stops, on the discovery of short yet stimulating nat- uralistic, historical, artistic, wine and food itineraries, all nearby the toll gates along the Venezia-Trieste motorway. These Guides are not meant to interrupt the journey but to make our trip an experience, by allowing ourselves the pleasure of a break, open to the surrounding beauty and to reach our destinations enriched by new experiences and knowledge. ALL DISTANCES AND TIMES ARE CALCULATED FROM MONFALCONE EST - TRIESTE LISERT TOLLGATES. EXITS DUINO AND SISTINA ARE AFTER THIS TOLLGATE. / 11 / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT AUTOSTRADA A4 TOLL Gate MONFALCONE EST TRIESTE LISERT QRCODE / GOOGLE MAPS / 12 / [ Tollgate MONFALCONE EST TRIESTE LISERT] [ DUINO] [ SISTIANA] [ SGONICO] [ BORGO grotta [ GRIGNANO] GIGANTE] [ MIRAMARE] [ SEŽ ANA] [ BASOVIzza] [ TRIESTE] [ MUGGIA] © AUTOVIE VENETE / 13 / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT Frontline history flowed through Trieste, a city nestled between the Karst plateau and the Adriatic Sea, in the middle of Europe. From the Romans to the Serenissima, up to Empress Maria Theresa’s revolutionary changes, which contributed to making it a great Julian capital, devoting it to freedom of religion and residence. Then, the twen- tieth century disputes over Trieste and Tri- este being eventually declared Italian. 1 [ THE LAND] Coincidences have favoured the creation of a cultural fabric that is unique in the world. A melting pot that has seen impor- tant poets such as Svevo, Saba and Joyce, meet and debate in the elegant cafés where it is still possible to taste a steam- ing hot cup of precious mixtures coming from the many coffee roasting plants in the city. / 14 / BACK to INDEX / [ THE KARST IN AUTUMN] PHOTO ANJA COP / 15 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT CENTRAL EUROPE AND CULTURE Trieste is the last northern stop in the Mediterranean and is thus a natural and privileged marine landing in the vast Central European