Duino- Aurisina

Home , Aurisina, Barcola, Duino, Duino Castle, Giorgio Fano, Grotta Gigante

3 [ OLTRECASELLO] beyond the tollgate

Trieste lisert

GUIDES BY AUTOVIE VENETE Autovie Venete 0432 925111 - 040 3189235 www.autovie.it

Design and implementation: © Echo Comunicazione d’Impresa Milano [email protected] - www.echocom.it

Editorial coordination: Alessia Spigariol

Graphics design: Lorenzo Paolo Sdraffa

Interactive english version: Altrementi Adv

Illustrations: Enrico Gisana

Translations: Rossella Mainardis/RB

First issue: November 2014

In consideration of the particular characteristics of the Internet, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any changes of addresses and contents of the sites mentioned herein. Editors:

Mara Bon (Food, Wine and Typical produce, Lunches and dinners, Shopping) is a journalist, with a passion for art and food. She has published several articles on the culture of food and wine for daily, weekly, monthly and field guide magazines and has edited studies of social-economic surveys, tourist marketing and geographical analysis for various boards.

Christian Seu (The Land, Historical and artistic routes) is a freelance journalist, ANSA correspondent for Gorizia Province and collaborates with daily newspaper Messagero Veneto.

He has been Press officer in Gorizia and communications manager of nu- merous cultural events in the capital town of this area. In the past, he col- laborated with the daily newspaper Il Piccolo and Radio Gorizia 1 and is co- owner of the communications Studio Area12. We thank Turismo FVG and Autovie Venete Press Office for their collaboration.

All photos in this Guide are courtesy of Turismo FVG Archives, except those on pages 72-73, 87, 103, which are courtesy of Autovie Venete archives.

Information office Trieste Turismo FVG: Infopoint FVG Piazza Orologio 1, angolo Piazza Unità d’Italia 34121 Trieste Tel. +39 040 3478312 / Fax +39 040 3478320 [email protected] OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

[ index]

1.THE LAND CENTRAL EUROPE AND CULTURE SOME HISTORY WATER AND ROCKS

2. HISTORY AND ART ITINERARIES DUINO FALESIE NATURAL RESERVE DUINO CASTLE GRIGNANO MIRAMARE CASTLE TRIESTE FARO DELLA VITTORIA PIAZZA UNITÀ D’ITALIA and LE RIVE SAN GIUSTO CATHEDRAL THE SYNAGOGUE SAN SPIRIDIONE TEMPLE IL BORGO TERESIANO TRIESTE AND ITS Cafés OPICINA TRAMWAY VIALE XX SETTEMBRE RISIERA DI SAN SABBA FOIBA DI BASOVIZZA MUSEO REVOLTELLA MUSEO FERROVIARIO BARCOLA PROMENADE

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MUGGIA il borgo CASTELLO DI Muggia

3.FOOD, WINE AND TYPICAL PRODUCE COSMOPOLITAN CUISINE, PORT OF DIVERSE CULTURES WINES WITH LAND AND SEA BOUQUETS DISCOVERING TYPICAL PRODUCE

4.LUNCHES AND DINNERS SAVOGNA D’ISONZO TRATTORIA LOKANDA DEVETAK DOBERDÒ DEL LAGO Hotel RistOrantE Pahor DUINO-AURISINA Alla Dama Bianca Agriturismo Al Pescaturismo Gran Osteria Tre Noci Trattoria Sardoc Le Torri di Slivia SGONICO Ristorante Savron Enoteca Sgonico MONRUPINO Hotel Ristorante Krizman

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TRIESTE Buffet da Pepi Buffet l’Approdo Ristorante Bagutta Triestino Buffet Birreria da Rudy (Spaten) Buffet da Siora Rosa Vecio Buffet Marascutti 1914 Trattoria Nerodiseppia Antipastoteca di mare «Alla Voliga» Osteria da Marino Osteria Ai Maestri Bar Trattoria «Al Guanaco» Hostaria ai 3 Magnoni Antica Trattoria Suban Ristorante Scabar Agriturismo Grgic Igor muggia Trattoria Risorta Osteria de Toni

5.Shopping DUINO-AURISINA Cantina Zidarich Azienda Agricola Skerk Azienda agricola Kante Azienda agricola Radovic di Nevo e Flavia Radovic Azienda agricola Antonic

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SGONICO Art Hrovatin Kajzer Marmi fattoria carsica bajta di skerlj slavko e c. Azienda agrituristica Milic TRIESTE Salumeria Sartori Alimentazione BM salumare Qui gatta ci cova Caffè Vatta Vidali Erik Rosso di ferro Il Giulia Le Torri d’Europa MUGGIA Pasticceria Triestina Ulcigrai Birra artigianale Campagnolo Montedoro Free Time SEZANA Vinakras

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Dear Client, The motorway you are driving on crosses two Regions; their in- dustrious inhabitants have branded themselves with creativity, en- trepreneurship, dynamic spirit, and availability to trade with other markets and this route contributes towards reciprocal market ease of access.

In the past these lands lived through the emigration of thousands of people heading to other countries and continents but today our motorway sees men and women coming to search for work in our country. Road transport has become the most used means of transport since the post-war years and motorways are essential to ease the flow of people and goods. Analyses of these flows allow us to make interesting quantitative forecasts as well as important sociological evaluations. They show that travellers’ profiles, destinations and reasons for travelling have changed over the years.

In the same way, markets impose increasingly competitive demands on commercial carriers to deliver as many products as possible in the shortest possible time. Often, when we overtake trucks and glance at their number plates, it is hard to recognise their origins, proving that current travel scopes and distances inconceivable a few years ago are now totally possible. Southbound goods and people from Eastern and Central Europe travel along this motorway, thus significantly increasing flows. We have therefore allocated massive resources to technological improvements aimed at safe travel.

The safety of travellers on Autovie Venete motorways is a quality standard of utmost importance and the services offered to our clients are continuously being evaluated and improved. However,

/ 8 / foreword we have achieved this result also thanks to the collaboration of our clients. Rest is essential to safe travelling and even a short stop may often avoid the risk of fatigue or may simply break the tension after hours behind the steering wheel.

These breaks are an integral part of our journey and our wish is that you enjoy this aspect of your travelling. Our motorway, which starts in Mestre in the Veneto region, and after a few kilometres winds through Friuli right up to Trieste, on the eastern border of our country, crosses places of great interest.

We have compiled this Guide to highlight the history, culture, art and produce of our regions. It provides short itineraries near the tollgates where you can enjoy a break surrounded by beauties that can only be imagined or fleetingly glimpsed while driving along the motorway. I hope that you partake of short yet stimulating itineraries to rest and relax and then peacefully set off again taking with you the memories of having encountered hospitable people, tasted unique flavours and visited unforgettable places.

I hope that this Guide will become your indispensable travel companion and will remind you of our heritage, culture and the North Eastern corner of Italy.

Emilio Terpin President of Autovie Venete

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The editorial project Oltrecasello aris- es from a mere thought: we spend long hours on the motorway to reach work- places, people and places. Our trips may be long or short. In the past, these were often necessities rather than opportunities.

[ guidE To the guiDE]

Deep in our own thoughts, focussed on our driving and our objective or destination, plugged into earphones and Bluetooth, distracted by music and news broadcasts, talking to fellow pas- sengers, worried about the traffic and the delay that constantly persists, we drive on. We go on without being aware of what we are driving past, without the curiosity of understanding, admiring and getting to know more.

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The Guides Oltrecasello by Autovie Venete wish to char- acterise our trips in a different way by leading us, through brief stops, on the discovery of short yet stimulating nat- uralistic, historical, artistic, wine and food itineraries, all nearby the toll gates along the Venezia-Trieste motorway.

These Guides are not meant to interrupt the journey but to make our trip an experience, by allowing ourselves the pleasure of a break, open to the surrounding beauty and to reach our destinations enriched by new experiences and knowledge.

ALL DISTANCES AND TIMES ARE CALCULATED FROM MONFALCONE EST - TRIESTE LISERT TOLLGATES. EXITS DUINO AND SISTINA ARE AFTER THIS TOLLGATE.

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AUTOSTRADA a4 Toll Gate MONFALCONE EST TRIESTE LISERT

qrcode / Google maps

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[ duino] [ sistiana]

[ sgonico]

[ borgo grotta [ grignano] gigante]

[ miramare] [ seŽ ana]

[ basovizza]

[ trieste]

[ muggia]

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Frontline history flowed through Trieste, a city nestled between the Karst plateau and the Adriatic Sea, in the middle of Europe. From the Romans to the Serenissima, up to Empress Maria Theresa’s revolutionary changes, which contributed to making it a great Julian capital, devoting it to freedom of religion and residence. Then, the twentieth century disputes over Trieste and Tri- este being eventually declared Italian.

1 [ THE LAND]

Coincidences have favoured the creation of a cultural fabric that is unique in the world. A melting pot that has seen important poets such as Svevo, Saba and Joyce, meet and debate in the elegant cafés where it is still possible to taste a steaming hot cup of precious mixtures coming from the many coffee roasting plants in the city.

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CENTRAL EUROPE AND CULTURE

Trieste is the last northern stop in the Mediterranean and is thus a natural and privileged marine landing in the vast Central European area. The cosmopolitan vocation of Trieste lies perhaps in this unique geographical alchemy, crossway of cultures, people and worship. A city voted to integration, fertile ground for arts and science, literature and technology, protagonist of the events that characterised the early twentieth century. It is impossible not to be overwhelmed by the atmospheres of the cafés evoking Hapsburg splendour or by the enchanting walks along the Rive looking onto the Adriatic. Yet, history has frequently assigned Trieste the role of supporting actress, constrained between the Serenissima and the House of Hapsburg, between the Patriarchy of Aquileia and the County of Gorizia. A city with three thousand inhabitants « Cosmopolitan City, crossway for in the eighteenth cultures, people and worship » century when Maria Theresa of Austria, illuminated and beloved sovereign, contributed to revolutionising the urban and architectural layout by demolish- ing walls, enlarging the port and amalgamating an area in the place of the salt mines. She welcomed foreigners and granted them freedom of residence and, above all, of worship and this was a determining factor for the growth of the city that was to become the Julian capital during the twentieth century.

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Synagogues flourished in Trieste and the Hebrew community became one of the largest and most important in Europe. At the same time, the city welcomed orthodox worship following the schism between Greeks and Illyrians that would lead to the construction of the splendid Temple di San Spyridon, with its light blue domes characterising the city skyline. The city thus eventually and indisputably fascinated those living in the centre of the Empire, beckoning them to the shores of the Adriatic by cultural fervour and by unique landscape scenarios.

« Twentieth Century history swept through here »

At the onset of the last century, Trieste consisted of more than 250 thousand inhabitants: among these, Italo Svevo and Umberto Saba who were actually born in the city. James Joyce, who was enchanted by the inns, cafes and sea, spent almost ten years of his life between the Rive and San Giusto. Political events and two World Wars, which ultimately returned Trieste to Italy in 1954, have not mined its invincible cultural verve: if once it was Rilke, Joyce and Trubar, nowadays it is Claudio Magris, PaoloRumiz, SusannaTamarro and Boris Pahor who are the spokespeople for Trieste in the world. The city has also been a cradle for scientists like Margherita Hack, great sportsmen like Nereo Rocco, Cesare Maldini, Nino Benvenuti, Tiberio Mitri and, more recently, Margherita Granbassi and Tanja Romano.

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SOME HISTORY

The area around Trieste has been inhabited for at least 50 thousand years and settlements started to exploit the caves in the Karst hinterland as far back as the Neolithic era. The origins of the city of Tergeste are still controver- sial: the Greek historian Strabone attributes the foundation to the Carnic people, although the finding of some relics and artefacts would strengthen the hypothesis that it was paleo- Venetian pop- ulations who « Tergeste reaches its highest first settled on splendour under Trajan’s rule » the Adriatic shore, as wit- nessed by the Venetian roots of the name itself. Conquered by the Ro- mans after the battles between Istrians and Celts, it first becomes a Latin colony and then a municipality, a crucial intersection for trade with Pannonia: Tergeste reached its peak of splendour under Trajan, before the decline coin- ciding with the end of the Western Roman Empire. In the hands of mostly German bishops, Trieste sides with the Patriarchy of Aquileia and the County of Gorizia against the Serenissima in 1289. The treaty between the Doge and the Patriarch does not stop the lootings and attacks on the Julian capital, which eventually signs a deed of devotion to Austria in 1382.

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[ TRIESTE. PONTE ROSSO. JAMES JOYCE STATUE] PHOTO MAURIZIO VALDEMARIN / 19 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

« Part of the Empire up to the Great war »

The turning point for Trieste came in 1740, with Maria Theresa of Hapsburg, who significantly contributed to the urbanistic revolution and to the rise of the new city thanks to the establishment of the free port (it had been the wish of emperor Charles VI twenty one years before), thus significantly boosting the city’s economy. The French occupied Trieste three times between 1797 and 1813 before becoming, together with Ljubljana, capital of the Illyrian Provinces. This status was to last only a year with Austria taking the city into its own jurisdiction and denying municipal autonomy. Trieste remained part of the Empire until World War I and became Italian in 1918. In 1945, it was occupied by Yugoslavian troops for 40 days as well as by the Anglo-Americans and it was then divided into two zones. Two years later, the U.N. decided to establish the Free Territory of Trieste. In 1954, the city was split and shared between Yugoslavia and the Allied Forces, who handed the city over to the Italians for the second time.

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BETWEEN WATER AND ROCKS

The Karst eases into the Adriatic and Trieste elegantly lies between the plateau and the sea. Whipped by the bora wind and kissed by the breeze, the province of Trieste embraces stretches of Karstic rock and Mediterranean scrub, beaches with fine sand and shores of smooth peb- bles in just 212 square kilometres (making it the smallest Italian province), Trieste does not conceal its nature as a sea town. The Riviera, especially the seafront in Barcola, is frequented even in colder weather and it is not unusual to see some brave locals in the Adriatic waters in winter. Before reaching Trieste it is worth stopping to admire the Falesie Reserve in Duino, where pine and hornbeam woods wind their way from the plateau down to the coast. Sheer coastal panora- mas character- « Stretches of Karstic rock, ise the coastline from Sistiana to Mediterranean scrub, beaches Grignano and of fine sand » heading towards the hinterland it is not unusual to encounter Karstic phenomena such as doline sinkholes and caves like the most renowned Grotta Gi- gante (Giant Cave). It is one of the biggest caves open to tourism in Europe and certainly the cave with the largest natural hall in the world with a height of 98 metres, length 167.6 and width 76.3 metres.

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The Falesie Cliffs in Duino and the Karst cavities, the cafés downtown, the masterpieces in Revoltella, the Greek Temple of San Spyridon and the Synagogue: Trieste, a multicultural, multifaceted, multi-coloured city, a symbol of the mingling of cultures, landscapes and lifestyles, is the ideal location to spend some hours in a

2 [ HISTORY AND ART ITINIRARIES]

modern yesteryear setting: from the historical cinemas and theatres to the places of worship, past the Rive and superb Piazza Unità, the biggest sea- facing square in Europe. Walks along the shore in Barcola, a steaming cup in one of the downtown cafes, a ride on the Opicina tramway and a visit to Miramare Castle are all popular activities.

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[ DUINO] FALESIE NATURAL ReSERVe UNSPOILT NATURE BETWEEN THE ADRIATIC AND THE KARST

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 7 km / 9 min Information Comune di Duino-Aurisina Via Aurisina, 102 34011 Duino-Aurisina Tel. +39 040 2017111 www.comune.duino-aurisina.ts.it [email protected]

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One hundred and seven hectares, of which sixty-three on the sea, surrounded by the high and steep limestone coast, a strip of the characteristic Karst plateau and the Adriatic Sea. The Falesie Natural Reserve in Duino stretches along Trieste coast, where central European flora and fauna yield to the Mediterranean environment, with the Karst marking the landscape between Alpine and Illyrian mor- phology.

« Hiking lovers can go through woods of pine, hornbeam and holm trees »

The most appreciated sights offered to visitors are the very high cliffs, reaching a height of 90 metres: this is a highly fossiliferous limestone coast of the Cretaceous Age, characterised by the whiteness of the precipice walls overhanging the sea in the reserve, officially established by a Regional Law in 1996. The mingling of biological domains contributes decisively to the variety of fauna and flora: hiking lovers can enter into woods of black hornbeam, holm, canine cherry, ash, hop hornbeam and maple, whereas the upper part of the Reserve is characterised by black pine, planted by man many a century ago.

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A short distance from the overhanging cliffs is the only place in the world where we find the Karstic Centaurea or fleur-de-lis of the Karst, a herbaceous plant with a characteristic violet coloured flower. Fauna is also of remarkable interest: we can admire more than one hundred and fifty bird species in the park, including the peregrine falcon, short-listed as an endangered animal. In the wood, with a bit of luck, we may see squir- rels and small rodents. Prolif- erous rocks in close proxim- « Natural habitat of several ity to the cliffs bird species » create a natural habitat for several species of reptiles: the horned viper, the wall lizard, the green whip snake and even the blue-throated keeled lizard, a large dark brown lizard with black spots. The blue rock thrush, with its unmistakeable blue-grey feathers also nests here.

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[ FALESIE. AERIAL VIEW] PHOTO MARCO MILANI / 27 / BACK to INDEX / RILKE Trail

The superb setting of the Reserve inspired the Prague-born poet Rainer Maria Rilke, who has given the name to the trail that winds along the cliffs for 1700 metres, joining Duino to Sistiana. The trail, which is constantly on level ground, is easy for anyone to cover: opened in 1987, after years of neglect, it belongs to Alessandro della Torre e Tasso, descendant of the Thurn und Taxis princes, who had hosted Rilke. Here the poet lived for many months in 1912, and was influenced by that very enchanting scenario to compose his Duino Elegies. The trail unravels from State Road 14, near the United World College of the Adriatic and winds its way down to the Tourist office in Sistiana.

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DUINO CASTle NOBLE ABODE FOR RILKE, D’ANNUNZIO AND STRAUSS

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 5.7 km / 6 min Information Times Castello di Duino Closed Tuesdays Via Castello di Duino, 32 Autumn-winter: 9.30-16.00 34011 Duino-Aurisina Spring-summer: 9.30-17.30 Tel. +39 040 208120 Fax +39 040 208022 www.castellodiduino.it [email protected] [email protected]

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Many a distinguished guest including Mark Twain, Paul Valéry, and Rainer Maria Rilke have been guests in this castle. It has a breath-taking view from a sheer cliff overlooking the blue of the Adriatic Sea. Around the magnificent Castle, currently residence of the princes Torre and Tasso rises the town of Duino: a stra- tegic position, dominating the Gulf of Trieste. The manor was built in 1300, where a Roman military outpost had stood one thousand years earlier. From sixteen hundred – after having also played an important political role on the stage of communal communities of the time – it became a humanistic court, privileged destination for writers, thinkers and artists, who arrived here frequently from the end « Many a distinguished guest: of the eighteen hundreds, Twain, Valéry, Rilke when countess and D’Annunzio » Teresa von T h u r n - H o fe r und Valsassina and her daughter Maria von Thurn und Taxis welcomed into their home Twain, Valéry, Rilke, Johann Strauss, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Gabriele D’Annunzio, Princess Sissi of Austria, Archduke Francis Ferdinand and Franz Liszt. The period of the Great War was particularly harsh for the prestigious building in Duino as it was on the bombing lines and was practically shelled to the ground.

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[ DUINO CASTLe] PHOTO FABRICE GALLINA / 32 / BACK to INDEX / 2.HISTORY AND ART ITINIRARIES

The renovation of the Castle took place thanks to Prince Raimondo, who adamantly and stubbornly set his mind on reconstructing the castle, appraising the beautiful surrounding park, alternating well-landscaped gardens with wilder Mediterranean scrub areas.

« Severely ruined during the Great War, it was reconstructed by Prince Raimondo »

The Castle is inhabited, open to the public and available for ceremonies and banquets. Fine china and eighteenth century antique furniture adorn the splendid rooms. Part of the guesthouse hosts the United World College of the Adriatic, which allows students from all over Europe to attend the last two years of high school and then to pur- sue their studies in the best universities worldwide. It has recently become possible to visit the bunker constructed in 1943 to accommodate the German Navy. Set back from the manor, stands 11th century Castel Vecchio, first home of the Duino nobles. From here, you can enjoy a privileged view of the cliff called the White Lady. The legend says that a cruel feudal lord killed his wife by throwing her into the sea but fate carved her white body into the rock and immortalised her as a cliff.

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[ GRIGNANO] MIRAMARe CASTLE A TIMELESS RESIDENCE

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 20.3 km / 20 min Information Times Museo storico and Castle: every day of the year, 9.00-19.00 Parco del Castello di Miramare Park: from April to August, 8.00-19.00 Viale Miramare 34014 Grignano Tel.: +39 040 224143 www.castello-miramare.it [email protected]

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Maximilian of Hapsburg personally chose, the plot of land at the tip of the promontory of Grignano to build his home in 1855. He was inspired by the Spanish castles overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, hence mirar el mar, meaning gaz- ing at the sea in Spanish, therefore Miramare. The beautiful neo - medieval palace, located just six kilome- « The home of Maximilian of tres from Tri- Hapsburg and Charlotte of Belgium » este, is today one of the most visited State owned historic homes of its kind in Italy and very popular with tourists who arrive in the Regional capital. Miramare Castle designed by Viennese architect Carl Junker became the home of Archduke of Austria (and later Emperor of Mexico) and his wife Charlotte of Belgium in 1860. They lived in the small building called Castelletto situated inside the Park while their home was being built. That same small building set in the gardens was to become Charlotte’s prison when struck by mental insanity after her husband’s death (killed by Republicans in Querètero, Mexico in 1867) she was locked up there. Strongly influenced by romantic sensitivity, Junker designed a house that appears – now as then – an elegant retelling of a medieval fortress, with ‘white towers’ which had also inspired Carducci. The residence boasts over twenty rooms, nowadays lar-

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[ MIRAMARE CASTLe] PHOTO MARCO MILANI / 36 / BACK to INDEX / 2.HISTORY AND ART ITINIRARIES

« Attractive rooms, including the throne hall and the reconstruction of a ship » gely used as a museum: the rooms preserve the furnishing of the time, allowing visitors to move about in Maximi- lian’s, Charlotte’s and their guests’ rooms. One of the archduke’s rooms is the most evocative in the entire building, created and inspired by the stern of the frigate Novara, on which the noble Hapsburg had sailed when he served in the Navy as rear admiral. The recently restored Throne room can also be visited and is the largest room in the Castle: ten meters high with a wooden truss ceiling that was intended to praise Emperor Maximi- lian of Mexico. The Castle is surrounded by a breath-taking natural setting as well as by the sea and the wonderful park stretching in majestic protection of this uncontaminated spot. There are greenhouses, sculptures and rare botanic species in this garden that is one of the most characteristic in Cen- tral Europe. The landscaping of the park started at the same time as the building of the Castle and was supervised by Maximilian himself. He often brought plants from his journeys, especially from Mexico.

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[ trieste] faro della vittoria SHINE and REMEMBER THE DEAD AT SEA

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 23.8 km / 21 min Information Times Faro della Vittoria From April to second Sunday in October: Strada del Friuli, 141 Saturday and Sunday, 15.00-19.00 34136 Trieste Barcolana Regatta, i.e. second Saturday Tel./Fax +39 040 410461 and Sunday in October, 9.30-17.30

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Built to commemorate the sailors who died in the First World War, the Victory Lighthouse is 67.85 meters high and guides navigation in the Gulf of Trieste. The idea of the tower came from Trieste architect Arduino Berlam, who had started designing it in 1918, just as the war end- ed. Poggio Gretta was chosen for the construction of the lighthouse as it overlooks Trieste bay at 60 meters above sea level. The first stone was laid in « Built to commemorate sailors 1923 and the who died in the Great War » inauguration took place on May 24th four years later, in the presence of King Vittorio Emanuele III. The structure has an estimated weight of 8,000 tons and is built with over 1500 cubic meters of Istrian and Karst stone. On the top of the dome there is a copper statue representing the Winged Victory, which weighs more than seven tons. Below is the sculpture of the unknown sailor made by Giovanni Mayer and the anchor of the Au- dace destroyer ship, the first Italian ship to enter the Port of Trieste on 3rd November,1918. On a memorial stone, we read the evocative inscription: «Shine and remember the dead at sea».

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PIAZZA UNITÀ D’ITALIA And LE RIVE The beating heart of a central European city

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 45.9 km / 41 min

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Piazza Unità d’Italia is one of the most characteristic sights in Trieste, a must-see for visitors, tourists and locals who start or finish their evening walks in this square. You can perceive the history of our country and of Central Eu- rope in this square. First-time visitors are enchanted and define it as one of the most beautiful Squares in the world. It certainly is the largest Eu- ropean Square facing the sea. « Theatre of important This square historical events » is also an intersection of contemporary historical events. In July 1914, the reflect- ing waters opposite the Square saw the return of the bodies of Archduke Francis Ferdinand of Austria and his wife, victims of the attack in Sarajevo that triggered the Great War. In 1918, at the end of the war, the people of Trieste welcomed the first Italian troops off the destroyer “Au- dace” in this very square, which then took on the same name. The Square was the main venue for the occupation on 26th October 1954 that sanctioned the return of Tri- este to Italy, until then under administration of the allied forces. The layout of the Square, which spreads over an area of over 12,000 square meters, dates back to 1870 when a number of buildings converging on Piazza della Borsa (Stock Exchange Square) were demolished (such as San Pietro church, which was the original name of the square)

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[ TRIESTE. PIAZZA UNITÀ D’ITALIA] PHOTO MARCO MILANI / 42 / BACK to INDEX / 2.HISTORY AND ART ITINIRARIES or those that blocked the sea view (Teatro Vecchio and the Prisons). The Square, however, was not completely devoid of barriers till 1920, when the trees that grew near the shore were also removed. The final reconstruction took place in 2001 and included the removal of the as- phalt pavement, substituting it with the current sandstone pavement. Historical buildings, now headquarters of the governing bodies of the city and Region, surround the Square. In the background stands the Town Hall, designed in 1870 by architect Giuseppe Bruni: the result is a combination of different architectural styles, with clear German, French and Venetian influence. The people of Trieste have come to appreciate it through the years, affectionately calling the building, Cheba, meaning cage. Dominating the Square is the curious bell tower, topped by two statuesque Moors, called Michez and Jachez, who toll the passing of time every quarter-hour. A similar group, which adorned one of the entrances to the town between 1550 and 1770, inspired the two bronze statues. On the tower, we see copies of the originals, which have been on exhibition at Castello San Giusto since 2006. In front of the Town Hall stands the four continents Foun- tain, built in 1751: it was removed in 1938 to allow Musso- lini’s visit to take place in the city, repositioned in 1970 and only in 2001 moved in line with the clock tower.

« Michez and Jachez toll the hours from the bell tower »

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On the left we can see Palazzo Modello (designed in the same period and by Bruni himself) and Palazzo Stratti, refurbished in 1939 and later acquired by Assicurazioni Generali: the historical Caffè degli Specchi (Café of Mir- rors) is on the ground floor. Going towards the Rive, you can see the Government Pal- ace, the most recent building overlooking the Square. It was built in 1904 and designed as Palace of Lieutenancy by Emil Artmann, one of the greatest advocates of his- toricism and a long-time a professor at Vi- enna University « Palazzo Pitteri is perhaps the most of Technology. elegant in the square » On the side towards the sea, we read the plate bearing the 1918 Victory at Sea proc- lamation. The plaque contains a rather curious mistake. It actually states that the enemy ships were defeated ‘in Premuda, on the Piave, in Pola, in Trieste and in Trento’. It is understood that the last stated town is definitely not located on the Adriatic coastline… On the other side of the Square stands Palazzo Pitteri (perhaps the most elegant building overlooking Piazza Unità), the eclectic Palazzetto Vanoli and the Palazzo del Lloyd, built in 1880 by Heinrich von Ferstel, at the time one of the most famous architects in the Empire. It was restored in 2006 and is the seat of the Regional government.

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[ TRIESTE. LE RIVE] PHOTO ANJA COP / 45 / BACK to INDEX / IL MOLO AUDACE

Built between 1743 and 1751, at the time of Maria Theresa of Austria, Audace pier stretches for 246 meters onto the sea, separating San Giusto basin from San Giusto itself. It was built from an initial idea: in 1740, right in the spot where the pier stands, frigate San Carlo sank and the wreck was used as foundation for the new port, which at first was named after the sunken ship. Originally, the pier measured only 95 meters and was later extended by 19 meters (in 1778) and an extra 132 meters in 1861. It had become a docking site for merchant ships and then for the fast ships that plied between Trieste, Venice and Dalmatia. It was renamed in 1918 when the “Audace” destroyer landed Italian military troops of bersaglieri and carabinieri right there. At the top of the pier, now used only for fascinating walks, a wind rose commemorates the 1918 event.

/ 46 / BACK to INDEX / [TRIESTE. MOLO AUDACe] PHOTO FABRICE GALLINA OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

SAN GIUSTO MARTIRE CATHEDRAL HEART OF TRIESTE’S CATHOLICISM

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 37.3 km / 29 min Information Times Cattedrale di San Giusto Martire Week days: 7.30-12.00, 15.00-19.00 Piazza della Cattedrale, 2 Sunday: 8.00-13.00, 15.00-20.00 Tel +39 040 309666 34143 Trieste

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Built on the hill that gives it its name, San Giusto Cathe- dral is the result of the union of two pre-existing religious buildings, one dedicated to St. Mary of the Assumption (11th century) and the other to Saint Giusto, which were in turn built on the ruins of an early Christian chapel. Ac- cording to tradition, the basilica is located on the ancient cemetery, where martyr Giusto was buried, after his body was recovered from the waters of the Adriatic where he had been sentenced to death by drowning.

« Built on the churches of St. Mary of the Assumption and San Giusto »

The cathedral, which is one of the symbols of the Regional Capital, has a gable facade, embellished by a gothic rose window in Karst stone dating back to the fourteenth century and over the portal, there is a plaque to commemorate the damage to the church during the Austro-British shelling in 1813. A few cannonballs dating back to the conflict are still embedded in the wall of the bell tower that looks like a defence tower and has five bells tolling the hours daily in a G minor key.

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The interior has five asymmetric naves, having semi-circular arches: the right and central naves of the Roman- esque church of San Giusto have endured, whilst the apse is more recent and was frescoed in 1423 by the Friulian artists Dominic Lu and Domine Antonio Bitetto. There are only a few fragments of the original « Beautiful mosaics decorate frescoes includ- the side apses » ing the five- element San Giusto Cycle of the thirteenth century in the side Chapel. Splendid mosaics decorate the lateral apses: 11-12th century works depicting Theotokos (Mother of God) and Pantocra- tor, flanked by Saints Giusto and Servolo.

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[ TRIESTE. Cathedral of San Giusto martyr] PHOTO ANJA COP / 51 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

THE SYNAGOGUE A CENTURYOLD LANDMARK FOR THE JEWISH COMMUNITY IN TRIESTE

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 28.9 km / 27 min Information Times The Synagogue Sunday: 10.00-12.00 Via San Francesco, 19 From Monday to Thursday: 10.00-11.00 Tel. + 39 040 363952 (bookings accepted for groups of at least 34133 Trieste 25 people) For guided or group tours, contact: Key Tre Viaggi Via Santa Caterina, 7 34133 Trieste Tel. + 39 040 6726736/26 Fax +39 040 672673 [email protected]

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The Jewish community in Trieste has always been particularly large including entrepreneurs but also writers like Svevo, Saba and Voghera, intellectuals like Giorgio Fano and Teo- doro Meyer, founder of the daily newspaper Il Piccolo and doctors like Edoardo Weiss. Synagogues were set up in ancient buildings, hosted in the ghetto that stretched out between Piazza Unità and Piazza della Borsa. It was there that the Jewish people of Trieste met for prayers before the monumental synagogue was built in via San Francesco, opened in 1912 and designed by architects Ruggeri and Arduino Berlam. The Temple is one of the largest in Europe and does not conceal its Oriental features starting from the facade with its characteristic rose windows forming the Star of David. The main prayer room has a rectangular shaped floor and has three aisles ending with the apse vault, covered by a gilded mosaic: the entire space is orientated towards a monumental Aròn, embellished by gilded copper doors, supporting a niche that holds the Tables of the Law. The structure is framed by a seven-branch bronze candela- bra resting on a marble balustrade representing the sheaves, symbol of the Jewish community in the Julian capital. The majestic chandeliers highlight the solemn atmosphere of the Temple: a copper one stands out in the atrium hanging from the stucco ceiling. Nazi troops destroyed the Syna- gogue during World War II and used the building to deposit books and works of art. The community’s belongings were saved from the German fury and hidden secretly inside the building itself.

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TEMPIO DI SAN SPIRIDIONE PLACE OF WORSHIP OF THE SERBIAN ORTHODOX COMMUNITY

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 28.1 km / 26 min Information Times Tempio di San Spiridione Closed Sunday afternoon and Monday. Via San Spiridione, 9 Autumn-winter: 34121 Trieste 9.00-12.00, 16.00-19.00 Spring-summer: Serbian-Orthodox community 9.00-12.00, 17.00-20.00 Via Genova, 12 34121 Trieste Tel. +39 040 631 328 Fax +39 040 347 6296 [email protected]

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White sandstone and mosaics are the elements that charac- terise the facade of St. Spyridon Temple (actually Holy Trin- ity and St. Spyridon Thaumaturge), place of worship for the many Serbian Orthodox in Trieste. The right to celebrate the orthodox ritual dates back to Maria Theresa’s edicts, in 1750. The Greek and Illyrian communities shared a church at first but co e x i s t e n c e became more and more difficult over the decades. There- fore, the Greek community built their own place « Designed by Lombard of worship on architect Carlo Maciachini » the Rive and the Illyrian community decided to commission a new and more magnificent church. Carlo Maciachini, an architect from Lombardy, won a public tender, where seven architects presented their de- signs. Construction started in 1861 and finished eight years later, when the new temple opened.

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[ TRIESTE. SAN SPIRIDIONE] PHOTO MAURIZIO VALDEMARIN / 56 / BACK to INDEX / 2.HISTORY AND ART ITINIRARIES

« Magnificent intense blue domes »

The characteristic intense blue colour of the domes attracts the viewer from outside the Temple of St. Spyridon. The inside walls of the church host oil paintings and a wall iconostasis covered in gilded stucco, with icons decorated in gold, silver and precious stones, representing mostly the Virgin, Jesus, the Annunciation and St. Spyridon. A gold and silver gemmed cross dominates the altar. One of the treasures worthy of mention is the silver votive lamp in the entrance hall which was donated in 1722 by Paolo Ro- manov (future czar Paul I) on his visit to the community in Trieste. Strangely, a local metropolitan legend claims that rubbing your back against one of the walls brings good luck.

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IL BORGO TERESIANO THE NEW CITY BY MARIA THERESA OF AUSTRIA

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 28.7 km / 26 min

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Ponte Rosso and piazza della Borsa, the Tergesteo gallery and Teatro Verdi all portray Hapsburg rigour and geomet- rical order with the buildings all level. And it is not just by chance. The most enchanting part of the new city, started in eighteen hundred, is called after the sovereign who made projects come true: it was Maria Theresa who started the urban revolution which was to last over fifty years and gave Trieste its current look. The borough with its central Grand Canal was called the Theresian Borough, Borgo Teresiano, in remembrance of their beloved Empress. The splendid Ponte Rosso square with the eighteenth century fountain adorned by a little statue of Giovanin (perhaps from San Giusto aqueduct where the fountain draws its water) and the Ponte Rosso Bridge with the statue of James Joyce, deserve a visit. A walk- « From Canal Grande to Piazza way was built in 2012, between della Borsa, the new Hapsburg via della Cassa imprinted Trieste » di Risparmio and via Trento and dedicated to Joyce, it was called the Dubliners. Due to an incorrect measurement, the Joyce passage was initially built too short, triggering the comical wittiness of the triestini people who called it «Ponte curto» that is “short bridge”. The Canal Grande was actually only one of four water- ways envisaged in the urban revolution wanted by Maria Theresa. The canal was navigable and was the main dock

/ 59 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT for goods heading to the old city for a long time; it once stretched up to church Sant’Antonio Nuovo but in the thir- ties, the last part was buried with debris from a series of demolitions. On the right bank of the canal, in via Rossini, stands Palazzo Gopcevich, seat of the Museo Teatrale Car- lo Schmidl (theatre museum), which documents the history of art and theatre of the last two hundred years. The building is highly recognisable thanks to the small white and red tile decorations. The Stock Exchange Square, east of piazza Unità, is the centre of business and economy in the city and Palazzo del Tergesteo, with the characteristic gallery, has hosted the

« Palazzo del Tergesteo, Stock Exchange since 1842 »

Stock Exchange since 1842. Through the glass tunnel, you then reach piazza Verdi, where the municipal theatre has been standing since 1801.

/ 60 / BACK to INDEX / WRITERS AND TRIESTE

The twentieth century cultural passion made Trieste one of the liter- ary beating hearts of the short century. Italo Svevo, James Joyce, Umberto Saba have inextricably tied their works to the Julian city, certainly favoured by a diverse and lively cultural environment. Joyce lived in Trieste from 1904 to 1915 and then again in 1920, teach- ing English to local businessmen and drawing inspiration from osterie (taverns), cafés, cinemas and places of perdition for his Ulysses, written, not by chance, after his return from his experience on the shores of the Adriatic. A life-sized bronze statue of the Dublin writer was placed on the bridge in via Roma a few years ago. Therefore, the city’s famous people are Joyce, Trieste born Aron Hec- tor Schmitz alias Italo Svevo, Umberto Saba, whose real surname was Poli, and Scipio Slataper, an irredentist dissident who died in Gorizia on the Podgora.

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TRIESTE And Its CAFéS MEETING PLACES For INTELLECTUALS AND THINKERS

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Trieste is a city of culture, of different religions, of literature, but also of coffee and cafés. If the Julian capital’s important roasting and trading of the perfumed drink is renowned, less known is Trieste of historical places frequented in the past by nobles, intellectuals and dames and nowadays a wise tourist destination. We can easily state that without its cafés, the cultural life

« Without its cafes, the city’s cultural life would probably have been less fervent » in times gone by would have been less fervent. Joyce, Saba and Svevo frequented these places regularly, often drawing inspiration for their works. The most ancient café in Trieste is the Tommaseo, opened in 1830 and renovated in 1997: the original furnishings were imported directly from Belgium. The café is renowned also for having introduced ice cream at the beginning of the1900s. Caffè San Marco was the meeting place of intellectuals like Svevo, Saba and Giotti but was never officially opened as it was considered a hideout of irredentist dissidents and thus destroyed by the World War I bombs in 1914. Then, there is Caffè degli Specchi, opened in 1839 and situated in Palazzo Stratti, in the heart of Piazza Unità d’Italia, irresistible refreshment point for millions of tourists every year, and Caffè Terg- esteo, inside the gallery bearing the same name.

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The OPICINA TRAMWAY A JOURNEY BACK IN TIME, FROM THE CITY TO THE KARST

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 28.8 km / 27 min Information Times Departure station Departures every 20 minutes, Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan from 7.00 to 20.00 34133 Trieste www.tramdeopcina.it

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Opened in 1902, Opicina tramway, named after the town, is now mainly a tourist attraction that allows you to reach Trieste city centre from the Karst upland and in particular from Villa Opicina. The railway, just over five kilometres from the centre of Trieste and, with gradients reaching 26 percent, reaches an altitude of 329 meters above sea level. The departure station is located in Piazza Oberdan and the tram leaves every twenty minutes for Villa Opicina. After an initial flat land section, a cableway that is unique in Eu- rope hooks, pulls and lowers the wagons at a steady rate. The tramway was built in late nineteenth century to connect Trieste to Opicina: it opened in 1902 and was upgraded four years later during the construction of the Transalpine railway, while in 1928 the drive system rack was replaced by a cableway, still in service today. Current- « The tramway built at the end ly managed by Trieste Trans- of XIX century to connect port Board, the Trieste to Opicina » tramway line was consider- ably renovated in 2012.

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VIALE XX SETTEMBRE THEATRES, ICE-CREAM SHOPS, WALKS TO THE «AQUEDUCT»

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 27.9 km / 26 min

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The people of Trieste call it the «aqueduct» as before the place name review because the city water supply still runs under the light coloured paving stone. Viale XX Settembre is today mostly a pedestrian area. It is lined by trees, which in the heat of summers grant shade to the people of Trieste for the famous Italian « It includes Teatro Eden “passeggiata” and Politeama Rossetti » or walk. This avenue has countless ice- cream shops, cultural and entertainment places including the Eden and Politeama Rossetti theatres. The Politeama, opened in 1878 and refurbished several times in the last century, is one of the largest prose theatres in Europe, it includes the Teatro Stabile del Friuli Venezia Giulia and can seat up to 1500 people. A short distance away is Eden Theatre, one of the most illuminating examples of Liberty Trieste: built between 1906 and 1908 it was largely used both as a theatre and as a cinema: the cinema has been open since that time. Aron Hector Schmitz, alias Italo Svevo was born in a sta- ble in today’s Viale XX Settembre, 16 on 19th December 1861.

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RISIERA DI SAN SABBA THE DRAMATIC NAZI DEPORTATIONS

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 42.3 km / 29 min Information Times Civico Museo della Risiera di San Sabba Every day, 9.00-19.00 - Monumento Nazionale For bookings: Via Giovanni Palatucci, 5 Tel. +39 040 6754480 34148 Trieste Fax +39 040 6754727 Tel. +39 040 826202 [email protected] Fax +39 040 825673 www.risierasansabba.it [email protected]

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Lest we forget, a metal plate and a memorial stone remind us of the presence of a smokestack that spiralled out smoke and ashes. There was a crematorium at Risiera di San Sabba where the oven once was used to dry rice. It is estimated that it contributed to eliminating at least three thousand corpses of men, women and children interned in the only concentration camp in southern Europe. The Risiera is today a National Museum, to remember how the tragedy of the Holocaust involved Italy and specifically Trieste in the cruellest and most direct manner. When the Germans turned it into a concentration camp for the Italian soldiers captured after 8th September 1943, the Risi- «The only Nazi lager era – built in in southern Europe » 1913 – was already no longer in use. Stalag 339 (as it was called) was placed under the jurisdiction of Odilo Globocnik, one of the founders of the organisation that supervised the management of Pol- ish lagers. He was sent to the Julian capital to enforce the anti-partisan and racist policies of the Reich. The Risiera was first a temporary detention camp for detainees heading to concentration camps in Poland and Germany and later became a place of detention, torture and elimination of political opponents and partisans. April 4th 1944 saw the first cremations in the oven, built a few days earlier and the bodies of about seventy people

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« The crematorium was blown up by the Germans in 1945 » who had been shot the day before near Villa Opicina were made to disappear. A year later, on April 30th 1945, the Germans who, before fleeing, decided to delete some of the proof of their crimes blew up crematorium and stack. Eye-accounts of survivors later documented the presence of the oven. In 1966, there was call to tender for the restoration of the Risiera into a National Museum. Architect Romano Boico designed the renovation of the “death cell” for short-stay prisoners, the seventeen tiny cells cramming up to eight people awaiting execution and the four-storey building with the dormitories for prisoners waiting deportation to other concentration camps. The main building, once used as barracks, is now a Mu- seum with a documentary exhibition of the history of the Risiera displaying documents, photographs, uniforms and personal belongings. The Sala delle Croci exhibits personal belongings seized from the Jews by the Nazis and returned to the Jewish community after their recovery in Carinthia in 2000.

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[ TRIESTE. RISIERA DI SAN SABBA] PHOTO archivio museo civico della risiera di san sabba / 71 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

FOIBA DI BASOVIZZA IN REMEMBRANCE OF THE MAY 1945 DEAD

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 33.5 km / 24 min

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In Basovizza on the Karst plateau, a national monument commemorates the people who were captured, killed and thrown into the foibe sinkholes in May 1945 by Tito’s militias and supporters. According to estimates by some historians, in May and June 1945 (during the forty-day Yugoslavian occupation of Trieste) the Yugoslav partisans killed and threw into the Foibe four to five thousand people involved in fascism, but also democratic and simple citizens. The Foiba di Basovizza became a National monument in 1992 and has recently been renovated. It was originally a 260 meters deep mineshaft, abandoned because of a lack of pro- ductivity. « Yugoslavian partisans killed from four to five thousand people »

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MUSEO REVOLTELLA THE BEST OF ITALIAN MODERN ART

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 28.8 km / 27 min Information Times Museo Revoltella 10.00-19.00 Via Diaz, 27 Closed Tuesdays 34123 Trieste Tel. +39 040 6754350 Fax +39 040 6754137 www.museorevoltella.it [email protected] / 74 / BACK to INDEX / 2.HISTORY AND ART ITINIRARIES

An elegant building at a short walk from the Rive, Museo Revoltella exhibits one of the most important modern art collections in the country. the German architect Friedrich Hitzig designed the building overlooking the once called piazza Giuseppina (today piazza Venezia) as residence for Baron Pasquale Revoltella. Built in Renaissance style on three floors and completed in 1858, it was donated to the city of Trieste by the Baron, together with all the works of art and collection of books it contained.

« The palace was donated to the city by Baron Revoltella »

Palazzo Revoltella became a landmark for young artists and for artisans, who could practise their passion for arts and crafts in the former noble residence. Meanwhile, thanks also to Revoltella’s financial bequest, the institution started the acquisition of important works of art, and in such large quantities that the exhibition centre needed to be expanded. In the early years of the twentieth century, the Municipal authority purchased the nearby Palaz- zo Brunner, but expansion works actually started only in 1963, and were completed only in the nineties.

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Palazzo Basevi and Palazzo Brunner were also purchased together with the palace designed by Hitzig. It is adjacent to the other two buildings and the acquisition thus enabled a 4000 square metre exhibition area, with installa- « Works by De Nittis, Carrà, tions that dis- de Chirico, Zigaina and Basaldella » play over three hundred and fifty works of art and sculptures. Palazzo Revoltella has its original furnishings following the principles of the Baron’s time, whereas Palazzo Brun- ner hosts works purchased from 1972 onwards. On the third floor we find the mid-nineteenth century Italian artists (Fattori, Induno, Palizzi, Morelli); on the fourth floor works coming from international Exhibitions (De Nittis, Nono, Ciardi, Trentacoste, Canonica, Bistolfi, Carena, von Stuck, Zuloaga); the fifth floor has the collections of Trieste and Italy’s early twentieth century (Marussig, Bolaffio, Timmel, Dudovich, Casorati, Sironi, Carrà, de Chirico, Martini) and in a smaller gallery, the artists of the last fifty years in Friuli Venezia Giulia (Zigaina, Afro, Dino and Mirko Basaldella, Spacal, Perizi). The sixth floor is dedicated to the national protagonists of the second half of the twentieth century.

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[ MUSEO REVOLTELLA] PETRUSSI PHOTO PRESS - UDINE / 77 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

MUSEO FERROVIARIO BACK TO THE PAST ON LOCOMOTIVES AND TRAMS

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 29.4 km / 26 min Information Times Museo Ferroviario di Trieste Wednesday, Saturday, Sunday, Via Giulio Cesare, 1 9.00-13.00 Stazione Campo Marzio 34100 Trieste Tel. +39 040 3794185 Fax +39 040 312756 www.museoferroviariotrieste.it / 78 / BACK to INDEX / 2.HISTORY AND ART ITINIRARIES

Situated in the ancient station in Campo Marzio, closed since1960, the Museo Ferroviario (railway museum) in Trieste was opened in 1984 thanks to the perseverance of a group of railway enthusiasts, who had joined together in 1975 to form the Sat (Sezione Appassionati Trasporti – Transport lovers association). The exhibition allows the visitor a hands-on experience of fifteen locomotives, some even dating back to nineteenth century, but also carriag- es, trams and a German armoured train used in World War II. Inside, models, photographs and documents, uniforms of the train op- erators and the reconstruction of the station- « Managed by volunteers, it is one of master’s office. the few museums of its kind in Italy » The Museum is one of the few Italian museums dedicated to the railways and is still run by volunteers of the Dopolavoro Ferroviario association in Trieste. Since 2004, both the station building in Campo Marzio (once called stazione di Sant’Andrea) and the collections inside the Museum have been placed under the supervision of the Friuli Venezia Giulia Heritage Office.

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BARCOLA PROMENADE Where the locals walk and swim

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 21.8 km / 19 min

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Leaving Miramare Castle behind and heading towards Tri- este, we find the promenade in Barcola, favourite destination of the locals for their walks, jogging and sun tan- ning. The Barcola borough has its origins in Roman times (Vallicula was the ancient name), when the Riviera was characterised by spas and wealthy patrician villas. In the fifties, the view changed radically with the construction of the complex known as Albergo Americano that buried a large stretch of the seafront. The main features of the Riviera are the magnificent pine- woods stretching over 25 thousand square meters and the legendary Bagni – called «Topolini»: twelve elevated semi-circular terraces built above cloakrooms, toilets and showers.

« Barcola dates back to Roman times »

/ 81 / BACK to INDEX / The BARCOLANA REGATTA

Over two hundred thousand spectators, almost two thousand sail ships, over twenty thousand crews. These are the figures of the Bar- colana, the historical international sailing regatta which has been attracting thousands of enthusiasts to Trieste, every second Sunday in October since 1969. An event that is not only sport but also culture and tradition, attracting large numbers of tourists to the city on the days of the event. The Regatta sails its way around 15 miles, generally starting between Miramare Castle and the offices of the Società Velica di Barcola e Grignano (Sailing association) and finishes in front of piazza Unità. Professionals and amateurs race in the Regatta.

Società Velica di Barcola e Grignano Viale Miramare, 32 34136 Trieste Tel. +39 040 411664 Fax +39 040 413838 www.svbg.it [email protected]

/ 82 / BACK to INDEX / [TRIESTE. The BARCOLANa RegattA] PHOTO FABRICE GALLINA OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

[ Muggia] il borgo LAST STRIP OF ISTRIA IN ITALY

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 45 km / 31 min

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The last strip of Istria left in Italy after the London Me- morandum and the Osimo Treaty, Muggia is also the southernmost city in Friuli Venezia Giulia. Overlooking the sea, it is characterised by a strong Venetian architectural and urban imprint, with typical small buildings and quaint narrow alleys. It is one of the most beautiful boroughs in Italy and is dated seventh and sixth century B.C. Traces of these early settlements and specifically remains dating back to the Middle Ages are preserved in the Archaeological Park in Muggia Vecchia (Castrum Mugiae).

« Strong Venetian architectural and urban imprint »

Here it is possible to visit and admire the church of Mary of the Assumption (the only building still standing), a portion of the city walls, and a stretch of the road run- ning among the ancient dwellings and, in particular, a two-storey house which was probably a blacksmith’s shop.

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MUGGIA CASTLE DEFENSIVE PROTECTION AROUND THE BOROUGH

Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert 46 km / 33 min Information Times Muggia Castle Muggia Castle may be visited on Calle dei Lauri, 7 - 34015 Muggia appointment at the Ufficio Visite of the Tel. +39 040 272772 Consorzio

Consorzio per la Salvaguardia dei Castelli Storici del Friuli Venezia Giulia (Castle protection agency) Tel. +39 0432 288588 Fax +39 0432 229790 www.consorziocastelli.it [email protected]

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The first settlement dates back to 1374, when Marquar- do Patriarch of Aquileia had a fortified watchtower built overlooking the sea. A superb residence, Muggia Castle belongs to sculptor Villi Bossi, who has to be credited with having restored it. He started in the nineties, whereas for the previous two centuries, it had been stripped of its stone materials used to build local housing. The current layout with the walls making a quadrangle around the central building dates back to 1399, when for- tifications were built to protect the borough below. There is also proof of restoration works carried out by the Se- renissima government in 1701. Muggia Castle may be visited on appointment or twice a « The current plan year during the dates back to 1399 » event «Castelli aperti (Open Castles)».

/ 87 / BACK to INDEX / THE SYNCHROTRON LIGHT IN BASOVIZZA

On the Karst plateau, on the AREA Science Park campus, there is an international research centre for science and industry: Elettra Sincrotrone in Trieste. Every day, physicists, biologists, chemists, engineers and experts in other fields work to provide replies to the most diverse queries on the properties of materials and the sciences of life. And they do it with rays of light! Their tools, which make of Elettra a unique centre worldwide, exploit the power and versatility of the synchrotron light. An electromag- netic radiation of exceptional properties which reveals the structure and behaviour of atoms and molecules, the properties of materials and their most effective treatment methods to solve the most urgent challenges in multiple fields,: pharmacology, medicine, engineering, nanotechnologies, conservation of cultural heritage. The synchrotron light is produced from two sources: Elettra, a stor- age ring that has been functioning since 1995 that gives the research centre its name (hosted in a large easily recognisable circular building) and FERMI, a “ free electron” laser (or FEL) with characteristics that are unique in the world and which started operating at the end of 2010. Together with the other three FEL operational sources (in Germany, United States and Japan), FERMI is the latest generation probe available to scientists. It analyses both high-speed (millionth billion a second) and microscopic (billionth of a metre) phenomena at the same time, recording in rapid sequence a series of snapshots or photograms to then make a film of the real ongoing process: from the propagation of a heat wave to a biological membrane or the action of a catalyser.

/ 88 / BACK to INDEX / [BASOVIZZA. ELETTRA SINCROTrONE trieste] PHOTO ARCHIVIO ELETTRA SINCROTRONE trieste OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

Multi-ethnic and varied, the cuisine in Trieste mirrors a cosmopolitan city in a peculiar geopolitical position with centuries-old history. Trieste, a seaport set in the Karst highlands, offers Adriatic dishes together with typical Karst dishes, fish dishes and meat dishes.

3 [ TYPICAL FOOD AND WINE PRODUCE]

The Latin, Venetian, Dalmatian, Istrian and above all Hapsburg influences reflect on Julian food and wine, together with Slovene, Friulian and Italian flavours and tastes. Jewish, Greek and Balkan influences enrich the menu. The result? A real and proper melting pot of tastes, aromas and traditions, inherited from the different communities that have been living side by side in the city for centuries.

/ 90 / BACK to INDEX / [ REFOSCO GRAPES] PHOTO adriano del fabbro - udine / 91 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

A COSMOPOLITAN CUISINE, PORT OF DIFFERENT CULTURES

The cuisine in Trieste overflows with tastes and flavours coming from Vienna and the Balkans, crossing Hungary and Serbia, from faraway seaside countries like Turkey or Greece, or nearer places like Istria. They reveal the trading and mercantile vocation of this city, which became a free port in 1719. Then, the eighteenth century Hapsburg domination blended the different cultural and gastronomic souls of Central Europe and the Mediterranean. Spiced and rustic tastes blend with refined tastes to em- body an elegant and refined city, characterised by Art Nouveau architecture overlooking the sea. Starting mostly in the fifties, the cuisine in Trieste began adding typical Italian dishes (like pasta, rice and pizza) and international dishes (like kebab and sushi) before anywhere else in the Region right from its annexation to Italy (1918), From breakfast to dinner, Trieste offers a range of ritu- als and typical products all to be discovered, making it a unique and original city.

« A Blend of Central European and Mediterranean flavours »

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Let us start with coffee, emblem of the Trieste culture. At any time of the day, coffee is a must. Here it is not a hasty morning routine, nor an occasional daily break, but a deeply rooted cultural and economic ritual. From the Hapsburgs docking the first ships laden with green coffee beans to present times, Trieste has rightly won the title as the capital city for coffee, with its coffee importing en- terprises, trading compa- « Trieste has won the title of nies, roasting coffee capital » and processing mills, coffee shops and the elegant and prestigious ambiences in the splendid historical cafés decorated in style with high ceilings and period furniture. In the past, breakfast was with a long or “Turkish” coffee sipped together with the Kaiserschmarren (Emperor’s sweet frittata, a dainty delicacy widespread all over the old Austrian-Hungarian Empire).

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[ CAFFÈ] PHOTO FABRICE GALLINA / 94 / BACK to INDEX / 3.FOOD, WINE AND TYPICAL PRODUCE

Another typical break in the city life is the mid-morning snack, rebechin, still served in the countless buffets around the port and the Stock Exchange. Places that are eateries somewhere between bars, trattoria (diners) and tavola calda (snack bars), these buffets are a typical kind of catering in Trieste. The particular climate, the cold, the bora wind and the dawn-breaking working hours have favoured the habit of having a snack before lunchtime, often a boiled pork meat snack, sausages, ribs, pork trot- ters, testina or tongue, cooked in the big pots under the counter. A bread roll with porcina (shoulder), a typical crostino with hand carved ham served with grated kren (horseradish sauce) and mustard or the rodoleti de persuto (pickled cucumbers wrapped in ham) are all delicious. Some traditional pork-based snacks are the luganeghe de « The rebechin ritual is Viena (Trieste’s a typical moment in city life » version of the Frankfurter) or Cragno (a homemade Karst sausage, slightly smoked and eaten cooked) and the Kaiserfleisch (smoked pork loin).

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An absolute must-try delicacy is Liptauer, cheese of Slo- vakian origins, on a bread crouton. Also known as cheese mousse from Hungary, it has been one of the tastiest starters since the times of the Hapsburg Empire. It is a soft goat-milk ricotta cheese cream and butter or sour cream blend, mostly served with a generous sprinkle of paprika. Some versions mix capers, mustard and silver skin onions. With aperitifs and walks through the city streets, time

« Jota, an ancient soup quintessentially from Trieste » hurries by. At lunchtime, the local cuisine offers different first dishes mostly soups and broths. Hot, highly nutri- tional and tasty, the soups fight back the whipping gusts of bora wind with their rich taste. The jota is quintessentially from Trieste; it has ancient origins and simple and humble ingredients like beans (the ancient recipe had the beans with the ocio, the black spot, later replaced by borlotti beans), potatoes and bacon, but above all the capuzi garbi (sliced cabbage, fermented and sour pickled). This cabbage gives the soup its strong and slightly acid taste.

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To bind the ingredients of this soup, they used aiprem, Hungarian name for a kind of oil sautéed flour. Jota (from Celtic jutta. i.e. soup, liquid) was probably first made as a leftovers dish to feed the whole family. Over time, home- makers worked out different variants: co’ l’osso de persuto (with ham bone to flavour the soup), co’ l’orzo (with barley), co’ le luganeghe (with fresh sausages). Another typical dish served at the Julian table is the minestra de ‘bobici, with wheat grains (bobici), « The minestra de’ bobici borlotti beans, (soup with wheat grains) » smoked cured ham and a pinch of pepper. This soup is originally from Istria. Of Austrian origins is the minestra de bisi spacai, a cream soup made with split dry peas, also known as Bunkersuppe (because of its easy recipe, it was prepared for both prisoners and soldiers during the wars). Very popular and widespread soups in Trieste are the poorer broth soup brustolà (toasted bread) and, like in the whole Region, the bean and barley soup.

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First courses on the menus in Trieste offer a wide choice of gnocchi, rice, risottos and pasta that join Slav, Austrian and Istrian-Venetian influences. Some examples? Gnochi de’ susini (of Austrian origin, made with plums, potatoes and eggs), liver gnocchi (of Istrian origin), gnocchi de pan (made with sta- le bread), risi e bisi (risotto « From the Slavic-Balkan world with fresh peas, come the cevapcici » beans, lard or pancetta bacon, or celery and laurel). Main course dishes also offer a taste of cultural harmony. From the Slav-Balkan world come the renowned cevapcici, small mixed meat sausages (pork, beef and lamb depending on the area of origin) very spicy and slightly hot, of a reddish colour given by the paprika. The cevapcici are generally served with raw sliced onions and Ajvar sauce, a bell pepper, aubergine and chili pepper sauce (sweet, hot or very hot). Of Slav origin is also the lubianska, a kind of breaded Milanese steak filled with ham and cheese.

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[ GRILLED MEAT] PHOTO Alessandro Castiglioni / 99 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

Goulash is originally a Hungarian beef stew with potatoes, chunks of ham and plenty paprika to enrich the dish. From the Greek community we taste the calandraca, stewed meat, similar to goulash, served with potatoes. It seems that the name comes from «calandra», a kind of medieval boat. If you add a glass of white wine, you get calandraca co’l vin, whereas the version without tomatoes is called calandraca in bianco. Of Bohemian origin, the Bohemian hare dish and Bohemian black pudding, a pork blood sausage with grated bread, marjoram and garlic. The Karst farming tradition offers the carsolina fillet (cooked with Terrano wine) or the kren lamb. Also very popular is the porzina con capuzi, boiled pork neck fillet served with krauts, mustard and horseradish. A traditional side dish in the Julian cuisine is patate in tecia usually served with goulash and meats or as an al- ternative chifeletti salati (similar to potato croquettes). Very popular also fagioli alla smolz, that is borlotti beans dressed with butter, lard and onion sauté as well as the rocket and borlotti bean salad called matavilz, rucola e fasoi commonly found on menus.

« From the Greek community comes the calandraca »

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The mid-afternoon break is a must-do sweet stop at a café and a taste of some delicacy. We can find all the traditions of Friuli Venezia Giulia in the Julian patisse- ries, often in the Trieste variant, together with specialties from across the border. Central European pastries propose Koch (a kind of sweet semolina flan, in the de gries version, and rice and raisins, in the version de risi) and Kuguluf (a highly leavened ring-shaped cake) with almonds, raisins and lemon peel. Strudel, called strucolo, with apple filling (de «Strudel is strucolo pomi), but also in Trieste » other season fruit like cher- ries or nut and ricotta stuffing is also of Austrian origin. When wrapped in a cloth and boiled, we have the strucolo in straza (strudel in the cloth). The elderly cooks in Trieste still make the Schnitte, bread slices soaked in milk and sugar, dipped into an egg bat- ter and fried. Some families also make povezen, a dessert originally from Bohemia (made with dry bread, wine and sugar).

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For chocolate lovers, a must-try is a slice of Pischinger cake (made with various layers of wafers and chocolate cream), the renowned Viennese Sacher cake, or Rigojanci cake (made with two layers of chocolate sponge cake with cacao cream, cream and sugar) of Hungarian origin like the Dobos cake (five layers of sponge cake and caramel topping). The carsoline creams are also delicious, made with puff pastry or cream pastry, served in sumptuous portions.

« Favette, fritole and pinza to celebrate festivities »

In Trieste, celebrations throughout the year call for different desserts. In autumn, on All Saints Day, the favette triestine, small pastries the size of a cherry made with almonds, eggs and maraschino are very popular, traditionally in three colours, white, brown and pink. At Carnival time the fritole, small fritters made with raisins, pinenuts, cinnamon and rum, whereas Easter is pinza time, sweet leavened dough made with flour, eggs, sugar and butter. The mixture is lengthily prepared and leavened and then we add rum, grated orange and lemon peels and vanilla.

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Of Slavic origin, putizza is Trieste’s version of the Friulian gubana, with a richer and more elaborate filling, enriched with cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Presnitz, is another Austri- an-Hungarian « Brodeto and granzevole typical cake alla triestina » made with a rich dry fruit filling, aromas and spices wrapped in the shape of a tortiglione in the puff pastry. It was apparently made for the first time in Tri- este during Princess Sissi’s visit to the city. As dinnertime moves in, we continue with other typical dishes but this time predominantly Mediterranean fish dishes, of Vene- tian origin and Dalmatian-Istrian derivation. The brodeto, a delicious soup made with different types of fish, is very popular and widespread all along the Adriatic coast and traditionally made with small fish and seafood in Trieste. Of many fish starters, we suggest granzevole alla triestina, seared shellfish served with lemon juice, pepper and parsley.

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[ SARDONI IN SAOR] PHOTO LAURA TESSARO / 104 / BACK to INDEX / 3.FOOD, WINE AND TYPICAL PRODUCE

« Sardoni in saor of Venetian origins »

Sardoni in saor (anchovies marinated in vinegar) boast ancient Venetian origins. It is the most renowned dish in Trieste, made with layers of fried anchovies and onions (adding vinegar, laurel and garlic). Other popular dishes are tomato cod fish (baked with anchovies and parsley), garnished seabass, baked with a mixture of shrimps, mussels, clams and scallops, risotto with pedoci (risotto with mussels) or pedoci allo scotadeo (mussels with parsley and grated bread). Canocie alla busara echo mercantile origins, prepared with unwanted fish placed in the «busara» - the earthenware pot used on ships. Today canocie (mantis shrimps) are served with a mixture of grated bread, tomatoes, pepper and wine. A day in Trieste can finish only with a walk on the Audace Pier, to admire the magic of this city, a jewel set between the Karst and the sea.

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WINES with LAND AND SEA BOUQUETS

The plateau behind the Regional capital has developed an interesting viticulture. It covers a small yet still pristine area. It definitely is not an easy land. This harsh and in- accessible land is characterised by rock soil originated in deep limestone cracks. The soil is highly permeable and the unceasing ef- fect of the rain has created caves, rivers « Karst wines are strong and sinkholes. and excel in character » This is why Karst wines are strong and excellent in character. They stem from grapes that grow clinging to the rock exposed to the Adriatic, so acidity is transmitted from the mountain, flavour from the sea and minerals from the stone and its strength comes from bora wind blowing day in and day out. This merging between strongly diverse natural elements enhances the original quality of these wines. This land has always lived on agriculture, albeit plagued by the dramatic historical events of the past century.

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However, where once there were trenches today there are famous wineries producing excellent wines. They can be found in small villages with the typical double name, the Italian and Slovenian version written on road signs along the tiny lanes lined with stonewalls. The most representative producers are Cotar (www. co-tar.si), Marko Fon (www.vinogradifon.com), Kante (www. kante.it), Lu- pinc (www.lupinc.it), Skerk (www.skerk.com), Vodopivec (www.vodopivec.it) and Zidarich (www.zidarich.it).

« The three most important autochthonous vines are Terrano, Istrian Malvasia and Vitovska »

There are three important grape varieties: Terrano, a red berry grape originated from Refosco, Is- trian Malvasia, less aromatic than other Malvasia wines, and Vitovska, the refined result of a fine blend of Malva- sia and Gleria grapes.

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[ OSMIZa] PHOTO MASSIMO CRIVELLARI / 108 / BACK to INDEX / GOING AROUND OSMIZE

Typical places in the Trieste interior, osmize are spread all over the Karst territory in the Valleg of Vipacco and on the Slovenian coast. Be pleasantly led through the municipalities of Duino-Aurisina, Sgonico, Monrupino, San Dorligo della Valle, Trieste, Muggia, and then into Slovenia, following the characteristic red boards portraying ivy branches. You will find these osmize inside rural houses and farm yards, with benches and tables outdoors or in the cellars. In their casual ambience you can eat genuine products such as homemade cold meats, eggs, cheese, olive oil and pickles. Served with wine of the house and quattro ciacole (a friendly chat). They represent an institution and are very frequented, mostly in spring and autumn. Their origin is ancient. The name comes from the Slovenian osem, meaning eight. In fact eight were the days granted to the farmers by the Hapsburg civic Magistrate to sell their products in the farmyards, with the advantage that everything sold during these days was not taxed. Opening dates vary during the year and are decided by the farmers depending on the availability of wine and other products.

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MONRUPINO - SISTIANA [ KM 18.5 ]

A great way to get to know the Karst hinterland is along Strada del vino Terrano - wine route. It is a gourmet journey in the heart of the Karst, created in 1986 by Tri- este Province, which includes twenty typical trattorie and restaurants. Following the signs with a stylised bunch of grapes, visitors and gourmets can discover various local products like Karst oil, wine, Tabor and Monte Re cheese and taste Karst cuisine in a very interesting natural, scenic, historical and ethnographic area. Starting from Zolla (in Slovenian Col) in Monrupino Municipality (where you find Trattoria Al Castelliere, Kres restaurant, restaurant Krizman) continue towards Villa Opicina, hamlet town of Trieste (Daneu Restau- rant) where you can see the obelisk that commemorates the construction of the Vienna – Trieste railway.

/ 110 / BACK to INDEX / Moving to the upper part of the Karst we cross some small towns: Repen, Borgo Grotta Gigante (Ristorante Milic), Rupinpiccolo (Trattoria Batic), Sgonico (Trattoria Gustin), Gabrovizza (Trattoria Sociale), Sales (Trattoria Maurica Peric), Samatorza (Trattoria Franc Fabec), Ternovca, Prepotto, San Pelagio, Precenico, Slivia, Malchina, Visogliano, and Sis- tiana. There are other eating-places in Duino municipality: Trattoria Marko- vic, Trattoria Sardoc, Trattoria Tence, Trattoria Tre noci, Restaurant Urdith. The route offers many interesting sites, such as Grotta Gigante (Gi- ant Cave), Speleology Museum, Karst Botanical Garden. From a nature point of view the Natural Regional Reserve of Mount Orsario deserves a special mention and we recommend a stop at Casa Carsica di Repen (Monrupino) for fascinating information on local ethnography.

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Discovering local products

COFFEE

As already mentioned, one cannot speak of typical products of Trieste without mentioning coffee. The Julian capital city began its outstanding journey in coffee trading in the mid-nineteenth century, with its as- cent to a major trading port in the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Since then, the coffee activity has steadily grown to the point of setting itself up as an institution called Trieste Coffee District Cluster (www.triestecoffeecluster. com). There are many import Companies and renowned whole- salers in Trieste: Illy Caffè (www.illy.it), Caffè Excelsior (www.caffeexcelsior.it), Primo Aroma (www.primoaroma. com), In Punto (www.inpuntocaffe.it) and PlanetCoffee (www.planetcoffee.it). Moreover, the coffee supply chain includes ten shipping companies and twenty businesses specialised in coffee roasting. It is significant that one of the few decaffeina- tion plants in Italy is also present. (www.demus.it). Statistical reports confirm that coffee has become part of the city culture in Trieste, because per capita coffee con- sumption is almost double the Italian average.

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Coffee culture in Trieste is so ingrained that a lexicon has been created, used only in the Regional capital, a kind of code that allows customers to communicate with bartenders. It consists of a termi- nology that applies only here and varies depending on the type of coffee required, the addition of milk, the type of cup or glass used (abbreviated to ‘b’). To order an expresso in Trieste it is good to know that you should order a ‘nero’. When you say ‘goccia’ you refer to coffee with a touch of milk froth in a cup, if it is in a glass ‘goccia in b’. Espresso coffee with hot milk served in the traditional cup is called ‘capo’. There are also codified variants: with a lot of milk froth it is called ‘capo in b tanta’, with a lot of milk froth and cocoa sprinkle it would be «capo in b tanta special» and without milk froth it is abbreviated into ‘cbs’. With «caffelatte» or «capo in tazza grande» we order a ‘cappuccino’. Decaffeinated coffee is simply ‘decaf’. You just have to try!

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Cheese

Excellent fresh and seasoned cheese from cow, sheep and goat milk are produced on the Karst highlands. Tabor cheese is the most popular and has a yellow colour with small and diffused holes. It has a special flavour thanks to milk from pasture fed cows in the Karst area. The maturing process varies from six to twelve months. Jamar, another cheese that is widely appreciated in this area, has a more intense flavour and piquant taste. It has a hard crust and tends to be white. It is matured for at least four months in a cave. Karst dairy products also include fresh caciotte and ricotta flavoured with Karst fennel or Satureja (Zepek).

Honey

The Karst encompasses both the Isonzo and Trieste Karst. In recent years, beekeeping has become increasingly specialised, both technically and professionally. There are about a hundred bee- keepers in the Trieste Karst and nearly a thousand hives. Conti- nental and Mediterranean scrub flora coexist and this peculiarity has created extremely exquisite honey. Particularly worthy of mention is the marasca cherry honey, a rare variety coming from a shrub species (Prunus mahaleb) that grows wild only on the Karst plain. It is a liquid amber honey, with a strong almond taste. Excellent acacia, honeydew, lime and mixed blossom honey are produced in the Karst Region, too.

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Tergeste Dop (Protected designation of Origin - PDO) extra-virgin olive oil

The Province of Trieste can boast an excellent product; Terg- este Dop Oil (www.tergestedop.it). Olive growing has been practised since ancient times, especially in the geographically warmer and protected areas of Muggia and San Dorligo della Valle, where we can still see the old olive trees. The main autochthonous variety, Bianchera Belica, has found an ideal microclimate in these lands. Bi- anchera oil contains excellent organoleptic properties: intense fruity smell, bitter and spicy taste. The local variety Carbona- Cernica is also widespread around Muggia. In addition to autochthonous types, there is Leccino, Pendoli- no, Maurino, Frantoio and Leccio del Corno.

Karst processed meats

We can taste typical sausages in the Karst upland. The area is actually ideal for the processing of meat following Italian and Slovenian rural traditions. A special mention goes to Karst prosciutto (cured ham), which is slightly more tender than other cold meats. It is hand sliced to best appreciate its taste and flavour.

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Wines

The most popular wine in the Trieste area is Terrano (teran in local dialect). It is deep ruby colour wine with a strong taste and full-bodied structure. The colour and texture have given it its nickname, «sangue di Cristo» meaning blood of Christ. It is certainly related to Refosco wine and apparently descends from Pucino, known since ancient Roman times. It has a strong berry bouquet. Vitovska is the most common white grape variety in Trieste Province. The name shows etymological connection with neigh- bouring Slovenia and probably derives from a town called Vi- tolje. A dry fragrant white wine is obtained from these grapes. It is greatly appreciated as aperitif and suitable for light starters and fish dishes. Istrian Malvasia is an ancient vine, widespread in the Adriatic area mostly in the Venetian Republic. Slightly aromatic and low in alcohol, it pairs well with fish based dishes.

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[ HONEYCOMB] PHOTO laura tessaro / 117 / BACK to INDEX / Recipes for a traditional lunch JOTA

- Serves four people 750 g sauerkraut, 500 g di kidney beans, 4 potatoes, salt, garlic, oil, parsley, pepper, 2 sausages, smoked pork - Preparation After having thoroughly washed potatoes and beans, let them soak, without added salt, for twelve hours. Then, wash the cabbage and boil it in one litre water for about an hour and a half. Add the sausages and pork to the soup. Prepare an oil and flour sauté, add potatoes and half the amount of boiled beans. Blend all the ingredients and add salt and pepper. Let stand. CAPUZI [sauerkraut]

- Serves four people 1 kg sauerkraut, 2 bay leaves, 2 garlic cloves, 2 tablespoons flour, salt and pepper, 1 teaspoon cumin, extra virgin olive oil - Preparation Put three tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a pan and brown the garlic. Then remove the garlic, add the flour and let it brown too. Add sauerkraut (Garbi is cabbage cut into thin slices previously fermented in salty water with laurel), season with salt and pepper and plenty of cumin. Half way through the cooking, sausage or smoked pork ribs can be added to make the dish tastier.

/ 118 / BACK to INDEX / CALANDRACA [Goulash with potatoes]

- Serves four people 800 g boiled beef or leftover beef (meat cuts for boiled purposes), 500 g di potatoes, 1 carrot, 1 celery stick, 1 onion, 0.5 lt. of broth, 1 glass of white wine, 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, 1 level tablespoon of tomato paste, 2 cloves, black pepper, salt, 1 teaspoon of mixed spices (paprika) - Preparation Fry the onion and chopped carrot in a pan and simmer for a few minutes. Add the meat previously cut into pieces and cook for five minutes to flavour it. Add the wine and let it evaporate. Then add the herbs, salt pepper and tomato paste. Diluite with water, cover the pan and simmer for two hours. Cut the potatoes into small cubes before adding them to the meat and cook over medium heat for another half hour. Season with salt and serve.

SWEET KIPFEL [Potato Chifeletti]

- Serves 4 people 500 g floury potatoes, 150 g flour, 30 g di butter, 1 egg, salt and pepper as needed, frying oil, 60 g di sugar - Preparation Peel the potatoes, boil and then mash. Let them cool on a work surface and then blend in the butter, flour, sugar, egg and salt. Make long rolls and cut them into 8 – 10 cm pieces. Bend the two ends into to shape of a horseshoe and then fry in oil. Serve hot with a sprinkle of castor sugar.

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The gourmet tradition of the city is truly rich. Austrian, Hungarian, Slavic, Balkan and Adriatic flavours merge into a complex menu.

4 [ LUNCHES AND DINNERS]

The common Hapsburg heritage, the influences of the various ethnic communities, the history of the border, multilingua- lism and cultural coexistence have evolved into a multicultural cuisine that is found in many inns, wineries, pubs, economical places as well as in the fine restaurants in Trieste and the surrounding Karst.

/ 120 / BACK to INDEX / [ GRILLED MEAT] PHOTO ALESSANDRO CASTIGLIONI / 121 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

The food and wine specialities of the Trieste Province dif- fer and range in flavour and in places from elegant and pleasant restaurants to Karst gostilne. Tasty and nutri- tious to fight off bora wind and cold weather. Both light and tasty made with fresh fish according to the Mediter- ranean tradition. Trieste is in fact also a harmonious combination of tradition. Below you will find a selection of places in the Karst area and in the capital. The list is not complete, but aims at offering an introductory guide to this multicultural cuisine. Many rural bars offer a pano- ramic view from the Karst plateau. There are other more fashionable restaurants along the waterfront, which are well worth visiting while wandering the town. It starts with some suggestions from the Gorizia Karst, across the Trieste Karst then follows down towards the coast. The city centre offers many opportunities for all budgets and tastes. Prices for complete meals are stated next to summary information: € less than 25€, €€ from 25 to 30€, €€€ over 50€.

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[ SAVOGNA D’ISONZO] TRATTORIA LOKANDA DEVETAK

Established in 1870, this Trattoria Gostilna has refleced bordering land characteristics, where menus adapt to the seasons: selinka (minestrone), mlinci (crusty baked pasta) or supeta (chicken stew), skutna juha (cottage cheese cream with porcino mushrooms), snidjeno testo (leavened dough gnocchi with rabbit stew), goulash and game meat. The extensive wine list offers typical Karst and Regional wines, as well as renowned Italian and foreign wines. An eight room Lokanda furnished in old Karst style has also been available since 2007.

Trattoria Lokanda Devetak Via Brežici, 22 - San Michele del Carso 34070 Savogna d’Isonzo Tel. +39 0481 882488 www.devetak.com [email protected] Price: €€ Times: 12.00-15.00; 19.00-22.30 Closed: Monday, Tuesday all day, Wednesday and Thursday at lunchtime Seats: 70 Booking advised

How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 22.5 km / 24 min

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[ DOBERDÒ [ DUINO- DEL LAGO] AURISINA] Albergo ALLA DAMA RiSToRANTe BIANCA PAHOR This waterfront restaurant Located just a few kilometres is situated in Duino bay. It is from Duino, half way between beautifully located, with a Trieste and Gorizia it is an large roof terrace, ideal for excellent starting point romantic dinners. for hiking the surrounding Good quality fish only is countryside. The restaurant used in the kitchen. Fish serves traditional Karst dishes. soup, gratin canolicchi and Gnocchi with cheese and boar canestrelli are just some sauces are some first course examples. Try the delicious dishes. Game prevails in the desserts Torta sette veli. main course dishes, but there are also Mediterranean dishes Alla Dama Bianca Località Duino Porto, 61/c paired with wines from the 34013 Duino-Aurisina well-stocked cellar. Tel. +39 040 208137 www.alladamabianca.com [email protected] Hotel & Restaurant Pahor Price: €€€ Via 1° maggio 14 - Frazione Jamiano Times: lunch and dinner 34070 Doberdò del Lago Closed: Wednesday Tel. +39 0481 410121 Seats: 200 (+300 outdoor) www.hotelpahor.com Booking advised [email protected] Price: €€ How to arrive Times: 12.00-15.00; 18.30-23.00, from Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Thursday to Sunday (Wednesday only dinner) 25.7 km / 19 min Closed: Monday and Tuesday Seats: 80 Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 17.6 km / 18 min / 124 / BACK to INDEX / 4.LUNCHES AND DINNERS

AGRITURISMO AL GRAN OSTERIA PESCATURISMO TRE NOCI Enjoy the sea views and a This cosy and quaint picturesque location in this restaurant offers meat, fish place where fish is the main and Karst flavours, fine and dish. The place is cosy and tasty traditional dishes with a simple. The outdoor parking touch of creativity, based on is inside an old quarry. Some strictly fresh ingredients. first course dishes are “sea Try the nettle gnocchi or fantasy tagliolini” or tagliolini tagliatelle with cheese as first with prawns. A must-try courses. Grilled meat excels main course are the mussels. in the main courses, but even Cooked in various ways, the fish satisfies the most such as au gratin with tartare demanding palates. White sauce. Turbot, sea bass and peach parfait is delicious. grilled sea bream are also just The extensive wine list caters as delicious. for all.

Agriturismo Al Pescaturismo Gran Osteria Tre Noci Località Villaggio del Pescatore - Zona Frazione Sistiana, 33 Cava 34019 Duino-Aurisina 34013 Duino-Aurisina Tel. +39 040 299222 Tel. +39 040 209846 www.trenoci.it www.alpescaturismo.it [email protected] Price: €€ Price: €€ Times: lunch and dinner Times: 11.00-14.00; 19.00-22.30 Closed: from Monday to Wednesday Closed: open everyday Seats: 80 Seats: 80 Booking advised Booking advised How to arrive How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 27.3 km / 21 min 28.6 km / 21 min

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TRATTORIA LE TORRI SARDOC DI SLIVIA Just a short walk away from Underground this Osmiza, the Slovenian border and only discover one of the most a few kilometres from Sistiana impressive Karst caves, Bay, lies this charming Karst the Torri di Slivia where Trattoria run by the Sardoc the stalagmites are the family. In summer, it is very Torri (towers) and Slivia pleasant to eat in the garden. the borough. The farm is It offers typical local dishes equipped with a ticket office such as plum gnocchi. Main for guided tours and an courses are mainly game and agribus taking visitors to the meat, tasty grills, wild boar and entrance of the cave. The shin. Try potatoes in tecia (pan restaurant serves typical cooked ) and spinach roll. Apple Karst cuisine, local cold strudel, sfoglia (puff pastry) with meats and cheese. typical pasticcera cream and nut strucolo are just some of the Le Torri Di Slivia Aurisina Cave, 62/A desserts. Wines are from the 34011 Duino-Aurisina estate cellar. Tel. +39 3383515876 www.grottatorridislivia.it [email protected] Trattoria Sardoc Price: € Frazione Precenico, 1/b Times: 10.00-23.00 34011 Duino-Aurisina Closed: variable Tel. +39 040 200871 Seats: 80 www.sardoc.eu Booking advised [email protected] Price: €€ How to arrive Times: 9.00-23.00 Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Closed: Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday 30.1 km / 23 min Seats: 80 Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 33.7 km / 29 min

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[ SGONICo] ENOTECA SGONICO RISTORANTE This wine bar and restaurant SAVRON offers fish based dishes in This restaurant serves mainly a friendly and comfortable Central European cuisine. The ambience. It is ideal for ambience is a bit retro, recalls raw fish (delicious shrimps Hapsburg history, with Austro- with lime, tuna carpaccio Hungarian photos and images. with black pepper, sea bass The rustic and simple country tartare with truffles and style restaurant is divided into Adriatic tuna). Those who two rooms. It serves excellent love cooked fish will also meat and vegetable starters. be satisfied. We particularly First course highlights are recommend calamari fagottini di ricotta affumicata with pancetta (bacon) and (smoked ricotta cheese mackerel with roast potatoes. bundles), plum and jota gnocchi Top it all with warm Terrano (dumplings). The specialty main wine chocolate cake. course is sweet and sour pork loin, pork shank, wild berry Enoteca Sgonico Via Sgonico, 15 sauced venison. 34010 Sgonico Tel. +39 040 2296623 Ristorante Savron Price: €€€ Frazione Devincina, 25 Times: 12.00-14.30; 19.00-24.00 34010 Sgonico Closed: Monday Tel. +39 040 225592 Seats: 130 Price: €€ Booking advised Times: 12.00-15.00 (Thursday-Monday); 18.00-22.00 How to arrive Closed: Tuesday and Wednesday Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Seats: 110 38.9 km / 26 min Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 37.7 km / 25 min

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[ MONRUPINO] [ trieste] HOTEL BUFFET DA PEPI RISTORANTE The most popular buffet place KRIZMAN in Trieste, also known as This restaurant surrounded Bepi S’ciavo, has become an by lush countryside has a institution for mid-morning long-standing tradition and snacks. Eating takes place offers typical Karst cuisine. seated at tables, but often Typical regional dishes are standing at the counter. the delicious brustolà soup Eat what? Boiled meat, and strucolo boiled with prosciutto, sausages. How? ricotta and spinach, and Cooked and prepared in the main course dishes such as traditional counter built-in beef fillet cooked with hay or pot, in a simple bread bun or lamb chops with Karst herbs. on dishes, with plenty of Kren The atmosphere is pleasantly (horseradish), paprika and friendly and country style. sauerkraut. Not to be missed.

Hotel Ristorante Krizman Buffet da Pepi Località Repen, 76 Via della Cassa di Risparmio, 3 34016 Monrupino 34122 Trieste Tel. +39 040 327115 Tel. +39 040 366858 www.hotelkrizman.eu Price: € [email protected] Times: 7.00-21.00 Price: €€ Closed: Sunday Times: 12.00-15.00; 19.00-22.00 Seats: 40 Closed: Monday lunch-time and Tuesdays Booking advised Seats: 150 (+50 outdoor) Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, How to arrive 14 km / 28 min Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 49.2 km / 34 min

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BUFFET RISTORANTE L’APPRODO BAGUTTA For those that would like TRIESTINO an original Trieste buffet, This is a typical, simple, and this is where you will find tasty Trieste food restaurant. a wide selection of quality Quality cuisine served in a cosy food, also ideal for quick setting, with colourful paintings informal lunches. Taste the on the walls. The menu offers starters, sandwiches, meat a wide selection of gnocchi or vegetable quiche, breaded (dumplings), first course dishes vegetables, several kinds of and soups, such as Jota, bobici fish-based snacks, such as soup or the typical pasta with carpaccio or stock fish. The beans. Karst fried chicken, typical prosciutto sandwich lubianska, goulash and boiled is a must. All paired with a meat are some traditional main varied range of sparkling and course dishes. still wines or famous beers. It also has a wide selection of fish including tasty cold starters Buffet L’approdo with shrimps, octopus and Viale Giosuè Carducci, 34 34122 Trieste potatoes, sarde in saor. Tel. +39 040 633466 Price: € Times: 8.00-21.00 Ristorante Bagutta Triestino Closed: Saturday and Sunday Via Giosuè Carducci, 33 Seats: 25 34122 Trieste Booking advised Tel. +39 040 3490074 www.baguttatriestino.it How to arrive [email protected] Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Price: €€ 14 km / 28 min Times: 9.00-24.00 Closed: Monday and Sunday evening Seats: 40 Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 14 km / 28 min

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BUFFET BUFFET DA BIRRERIA DA SIORA ROSA RUDY (SPATEN) A typical restaurant that Country style pub, half serves traditional Trieste way between Bavarian- cuisine right in the centre style beer bar and Trieste of town, just few steps buffet bar. Pork and beer from Piazza Unità. From are protagonists on the the dishes on the menu, try menu. Kaiserfleisch with the cooked ham in bread goulash, boiled meat with crust with mustard and sauerkraut or potatoes in kren (horseradish). A tasty tecia recall Bavarian and selection of pasta dishes Trieste specialities. There is as well, including potato also Jota which is the most gnocchi. The buffet also has a typical and traditional soup. vast selection of meat dishes. The restaurant is located in a Try the sweet cinnamon secluded and quiet spot. gnocchi to end with a treat.

Buffet Birreria da Rudy (Spaten) Buffet da Siora Rosa Via Valdirivo, 32 Piazza Attilio Hortis, 3 34122 Trieste 34122 Trieste Tel. +39 040 639428 Tel. +39 040 301460 Price: € Price: €€ Times: 9.00-24.00 (Monday-Saturday); Times: 8.00-20.00 (Saturday, 8.00-15.00) 12.00-16.00 (Sunday) Closed: Sunday Closed: Sunday dinner time Seats: 60 Seats: 60 Booking advised Booking advised How to arrive How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 15 km / 35 min 14 km / 28 min

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VECIO BUFFET TRATTORIA MARASCUTTI NERODISEPPIA 1914 In the centre of Trieste, just This historical buffet a short walk from Stazione restaurant in via Battisti Marittima, there is this small has recently celebrated its restaurant furnished in a simple centennial. Once a liquor and carefully selected style, store, today it is a classical opened in 2010. Dishes offer reference to the city’s an attractive combination of tradition. The buffet menu scents and flavours, often very offers dishes inspired by the original and creative. Some first multi-ethnic traditions of this courses are the tasty bottarga Julian capital city. and pistachio spaghetti, exotic Bread and ham gnocchi curried rice with shrimps. Main (elimina dumplings), jota and course dishes are sea bream boiled mixed meat are among fillet, fried sardines and fried fish. the most requested. Strudel Excellent desserts, such as cream and strucoli will worthily and small crushed pistachio cake round off your meal. or ice-cream on ricotta muffin. And to top it all, raisin sherbet Vecio Buffet Marascutti 1914 with ground pistachios. Via Cesare Battisti, 2/b 34125 Trieste Tel. +39 040 633719 Trattoria Nerodiseppia www.buffetmarascutti.it Via Luigi Cadorna, 23 [email protected] 34122 Trieste Price: €€ Tel. +39 339153903 Times: 9.00-15.30; 17.30-22.30 www.trattorianerodiseppia.com Closed: Tuesday [email protected] Seats: 40 Price: €€ Booking advised Times: 12.00-14.30; 19.00-22.30 Closed: Sunday and Monday How to arrive Seats: 20 (+20 outdoor) Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Booking advised 9 km / 27 min How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 9.5 km / 29 min / 131 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

ANTIPASTOTECA OSTERIA DI MARE DA MARINO «ALLA VOLIGA» A meeting place for the Close to San Giusto Castle, young, right behind the this small seaside place is main square in Trieste. The suitable for feasting with restaurant, maintaining friends. The décor recalls an past architecture, offers a ancient fishing boat, with vast selection of cold cuts, fishing nets and knots. The goose salami, lard, Karst menu offers only traditionally cheese, honey and preserved prepared fish from the gulf delicacies. The wine cellar of Trieste. The starters are is well stocked with Italian particularly tasty, followed by and foreign wines. Potato fish lasagne and the soups. dumplings with green cheese Mackerel, monkfish or grilled cream, walnuts and red fish are your ideal main radicchio is one of the first course. course dishes to try and for your main course, Muscat Antipastoteca di mare «Alla Voliga» grape sauce veal or beef fillet Via della Fornace, 1 34131 Trieste cooked with Terrano wine. Tel. +39 040 309606 www.antipastotecadimare.it Osteria da Marino Price: € Via del Ponte, 5 Times: 12.00-14.15; 19.00-22.30 34122 Trieste Closed: Sunday evening and Monday Tel. +39 040 366596 Seats: 50 www.osteriadamarino.com Booking advised [email protected] Price: €€ How to arrive Times: 11.00-15.00;18.00-01.00 Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Closed: Saturday and Sunday lunchtime 13 km / 28 min Seats: 30 Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 15 km / 34 min

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OSTERIA AI BAR TRATTORIA MAESTRI «AL GUANACO» A nice little restaurant in This is a small family-run the centre of Trieste, near restaurant for those who Piazza Goldoni with a warm enjoy generous portions. and informal setting. This Main courses are mainly fish delightful osteria is nicely and the seafood pasta is a furnished with wooden tables must together with fried fish, and a visible open space mixed grilled fish and mussel kitchen. The presentation of scotadeo. It is suitable for dishes is very accurate which good slow eaters. corresponds to accuracy also in the combination of Bar Trattoria «Al Guanaco» Via Foscolo, 16 flavours. A must-try is raw 34100 Trieste lobster or the typical sarde Tel. +39 327 9150032 Price: € in saor. It is ideal for a drink, Times: 6.30-23.00 a quick lunch and for wine Closed: Sunday Seats: 30 tasting with sandwiches, Booking advised frittata or other snacks. How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Osteria Ai Maestri 13 km / 27 min Via della Sorgente, 6, 34125 Trieste Tel. +39 040 636801 Price: €€ Times: 9.00-23.00 Closed: Sunday Seats: 20 Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 13 km / 27 min

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HOSTARIA AI 3 ANTICA MAGNONI TRATTORIA Refined and welcoming SUBAN ambience, having a big wood One of the most ancient and furnished dining room and historical trattorie of Trieste, a garden. Especially popular located in the busy San Giovanni for fresh fish, accurate neighbourhood between presentation of dishes the town centre and the and a pinch of creativity highland. Four generations of combining flavours from the restaurateurs have been offering territory. Try the aubergine their typically local food: karst and anchovy parmigiana jota, small speck and cheese with crispy lard and Karst dumplings, Servola recipe caciotta cheese. Starters of sausage and spinach fagottino the day are real specialties and (stuffed dumplings), Istrian fusi Istrian calamari as well as the with stew, Dalmatian pastizzada. chef’s fantasies are some the Karst herb sauces enhance meat delicious main courses. dishes such as prosciutto stuffed loin. A must-have dessert is the Hostaria ai 3 Magnoni typical millefoglie (puff pastry Via dell’Eremo, 243 34123 Trieste with cream). www.ai3magnoni.com [email protected] Antica Trattoria Suban Tel. +39 040 910979 Via E. Comici, 2/d Price: €€ 34128 Trieste Times: 9.30-15.00; 18.30-23.30 Tel. +30 040 54368 Closed: Monday and Tuesday www.suban.it Seats: 70 (+80 outdoor) [email protected] Booking advised Price: €€ Times: 12.30-22.30 How to arrive Closed: Tuesday Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Seats: 100 (+100 outdoor) 10 km / 21 min Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 9.5 km / 15 min / 134 / BACK to INDEX / 4.LUNCHES AND DINNERS

RISTORANTE AGRITURISMO SCABAR GRGIC IGOR Fish has a main role in this This beautiful restaurant is restaurant’s cuisine. You can not far from the small church start with a pesce azzurro in Patriciano. Taste typical trio followed by fish ravioli local products in a friendly with scallops and for your country atmosphere. The main course the pleasant and menu offers homemade Karst balanced flavours of sautéed food such as jota, pasticcio shrimps. Swordfish and (lasagne), gnocchi de pan snapper steak with porcini (bread dumplings) or surprise mushrooms is also a must. gnocchi (sage, spinach and The atmosphere is cosy, cheese dumplings) and sober and pleasant. From zucchini rolls. Try the first the terrace, enjoy a beautiful course trio. The main course view over the bay. You may to try is goulash with polenta encounter noir author Veit and pan-cooked potatoes. Heinichen. Own wines available for tasting and purchasing. Ristorante Scabar 34128 Trieste Tel. +39 040 810368 Agriturismo Grgic Igor www.scabar.it Località Padriciano, 193 Price: €€ 34149 Trieste Times: 12.00-15.00; 19.00-23.00 Tel. +39 040 226445 Closed: Monday www.grgic.it Seats: 50 [email protected] Booking advised Price: € Times: 10.00-23.00 How to arrive Closed: from Monday to Thursday Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Seats: 50 11 km / 19 min Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 5.5 km / 6 min

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[ Muggia] OSTERIA DE TONI This osteria is located in TRATTORIA Plavie on the Slovenian RISORTA border and offers tasty grilled This trattoria overlooks meat in a country style the inner harbour, called ambience. It is a countryside mandracchio. During oasis of tranquillity summer, you can dine characterised by a friendly on a large open terrace atmosphere and a garden for overlooking the sea. summer dining. Grilled meat Specialities are creatively specialities with side dishes prepared seafood dishes such including potatoes and grilled as scallops with red and black vegetables are the highlights truffle. Other dishes worthy of this place. of mention are lobster spaghetti or mixed grill. To Osteria de Toni Località Belpoggio, 5 make your choice easier, the 34015 Muggia menu suggests seven dishes Tel. +39 040 231061 Price: € including dessert of the day. Times: lunch and dinner Closed: Monday and Tuesday Booking advised Trattoria Risorta Riva De Amicis, 1/a How to arrive 34015 Muggia Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Tel. +39 040 271219 20 km / 18 min www.trattoriarisorta.it [email protected] Price: €€ Times: 12.00-15.00; 19.00-22.00 Closed: Monday and Sunday evening Seats: 58 Booking advised How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 21 km / 22 min

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[ CATCH OF THE DAY] PHOTO maurizio valdemarin / 137 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

Shopping is for everyone in the Julian capital city. Historically an emporium city, it still has plenty of shops, artisan stores and shopping malls located within a few kilometres. Just a walk through via Carducci and Corso Italia, along Via San Nicolò and Via Dante is all you need to find main fashion brands but also interesting quality item shops.

5 [ shopping]

There are plenty of opportunities to make good purchases between Piazza della Borsa and Piazza Unità d’Italia and in the old city called città vecia. The city’s antique shops and small artisan stores are in the Canava area. The two shopping malls just outside the city centre in Trieste are on public transport routes, too.

/ 138 / BACK to INDEX / [ TRIESTE. caffè degli specchi] PHOTO MAURIZIO VALDEMARIN / 139 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

[ DUINO- AZIENDA AURISINA] AGRICOLA SKERK In Prepotto, on the Karst CANTINA highland, on small plots ZIDARICH located between the rocks On the Karst highland, amidst and the sea, the Skerk family the vineyards that overlook practises precise intensive the gulf, is where in 2009 viticulture to enhance the this company opened a new varieties of autochthonous wine cellar carved into the grapes such as Istrian rock at a depth of 20 meters. Malvasia, Vitovska, and This is where we find the Terrano. After ageing in barrel room, the wine aging cellars dug out of the typical area, characterised by arched Karst calcareous rock, wines rock ceilings, wine tasting acquire unique characteristics and wine processing areas. and become expressions of Vitovska, Istrian Malvasia and the surrounding territory. Terrano are some of the wines They are for sale on the produced and sold here. premises.

Cantina Zidarich Azienda agricola Skerk Località Prepotto, 23 Località Prepotto, 20 34011 Duino-Aurisina 34011 Duino-Aurisina Tel. +39 040 201223 Tel. +39 040 200156 www.zidarich.it www.skerk.com [email protected] [email protected] How to arrive How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 33 km / 29 min 33 km / 29 min

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AZIENDA AZIENDA AGRICOLA AGRICOLA KANTE RADOVIČ DI NEVO Edi Kante’s rows of vines E FLAVIA RADOVIČ stand out on the Karst Radovic farm, on the Karst, is a halfway between the Adriatic certified organic food producer coast and the mountains. and wine, olive oil, fruit and The environmental sensitivity vegetables follow Green is a determining element for standards. It has an ecological the produce of this farm, fuel heating plant, solar and giving importance to vineyard photovoltaic panels for hot hand-processed treatments. water as well as generation Grapes complete their of its own electricity. It sells ripening in the cellar thus pleasant white wines (such resulting in perfectly balanced as Vitovska and Malvasia), wines. Here we encounter red wines with a strong all the flavours, fragrances character (such as Terrano and aromas of this territory and Refosco) as well as spicy together with all the passion and intense flavoured olive oil of the winemaker. from autochthonous olives (Bianchera Belica) pressed in Azienda agricola Kante the family mill. Taste and enjoy Località Prepotto, 1/a 34011 Duino-Aurisina these products in the adjacent Te. +39 040 200255 farmhouse restaurant. www.kante.it [email protected] Azienda agricola Radovic di Nevo e How to arrive Flavia Radovic Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, Località Aurisina, 138/a 33 km / 29 min 34013 Duino-Aurisina Tel. +39 040 200173 www.agriturismoradovic.it [email protected] How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 33 km / 29 min

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AZIENDA [ SGONICo] AGRICOLA ANTONIČ ART HROVATIN Products can be purchased Not far from Grotta Gigante directly here in Ceroglie, cave, in the village of the this Karst hamlet at the foot same name, is sculptor Paolo of Mount Hermada. At the Hrovatin’s workshop. His farm shop near the barns, we hands shape works of art, can buy cheese (fresh and sculptures and everyday seasoned pecorino from goat objects. Basic materials of his milk, fresh, salted or with works are Karst stones, such Karst herbs Ricotta), cold as Aurisina stone, stalactite cuts (salami, Karst prosciutto and calcareous alabaster, crudo - cured ham, ossocollo, shaped according to versatile porchetta) and wines styles ranging from classic to (Terrano and Vitovska). The modern. shop is open from 5 pm to 7 pm on Mondays, Wednesdays Art Hrovatin Borgo Grotta Gigante, 9/a and Fridays. The farm also 34010 Sgonico sells unrefined wool as raw Tel. +39 040 327077 [email protected] material to manufacturers of insulating products. How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 38.9 km / 26 min Azienda agricola Antonic Località Ceroglie, 44 34019 Duino-Aurisina Tel. +39 340 5847185 www.kmetijaantonic.it How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 33 km / 29 min

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KAJZER MARMI FATTORIA CARSICA Peter Škabar is a marble artist, BAJTA DI SKERLJ who set up his company in SLAVKO E C. 2001. He very soon began In the town of Sales in ranking amongst the best the middle of the Karst representatives in artisan a genuine Zero km farm creations, becoming popular exists. The whole supply first for his stone artefacts chain is represented here. then for his marble works. Farm animals, surrounding fields, vineyards, a food Kajzer Marmi store and farm snack bar Zona Artigianale Sgonico, 29/c 34010 Sgonico co-exist in harmony. Pork Tel. +39 040 2529343 meat, cold meats in general, www.kajzermarmi.com [email protected] local sausages, own wines, preserves, oil and different How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, kinds of honey from Trieste 38.9 km / 26 min Province are on sale in the food store. The store times are from 9 am to 1 pm, Tuesday to Sunday, in the afternoon from 4 pm to 7 pm from Wednesday to Saturday.

Fattoria Carsica Bajta di Skerlj Slavko e C. Località Sales, 108 34010 Sgonico Tel. +39 040 2296090 www.bajta.it [email protected] How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 38.9 km / 26 min

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AZIENDA [ trieste] AGRITURISTICA MILIČ (ZAGRSKI) Salumeria In an isolated location Sartori surrounded by the green There is a wide selection of countryside, Zagrski Farm cold cuts in this city centre run by the Milic family, is delicatessen, not far from dedicated to agriculture, Piazza Unità d'Italia. It looks animal breeding and farm like a typical village store and produce. Genuine and many people of Trieste shop typical products are made in here. It offers typical products this rural setting with farm from the surrounding animals including horses. The territory, such as hand-cut farm offers excellent meat ham and Karst prosciutto. such as bacon and pepper You can buy typical Montasio prosciutto, seasoned in the and Tabor cheese, mozzarella, Karst rock cellar, as well as gorgonzola , ricotta and excellent wines obtained from Karst pickles and olives. meticulous processing. Opening time: 7.45 am - 1.15 pm and 3.30 pm - 7.30 pm, Azienda agrituristica Milic (Zagrski) from Mondays to Saturdays, Località Sagrado, 2 34010 Sgonico Mondays only in the morning. Tel. +39 040 229383 www.agriturismomilic.it Salumeria Sartori How to arrive Via di Cavana, 15/a Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 34122 Trieste 38.9 km / 26 min Tel. +39 040 300721 How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 15 km / 33 min

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ALIMENTAZIONE SALUMARE BM As per tradition, you will see This delicatessen, daily salmon and cod hanging from shopping spot for local the ceiling. You find yourself gourmets, is located close to in a fish laboratory where city centre, just a short walk the fresh catch of the day is from the station. A wide expertly processed, prepared range of products, especially and served in delicious salami and local cheese. You quiches, snacks, simple can also choose chocolate courses and sauces. Enjoy products or traditional SaluMare delicacies at the pastries for a sweet gift idea. counter, at the tables placed outside or you can have it Alimentazione BM packed and enjoy it at home. Via Roma, 3 34122 Trieste Opening time: 11 am - 2 pm, Tel. +39 040 630217 Tuesday to Saturday. How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, SaluMare 14 km / 28 min Via di Cavana, 13 34124 Trieste Tel. +39 040 3229743 www.salumare.com [email protected] How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 15 km / 33 min

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QUI GATTA CAFFÈ VATTA CI COVA Caffè Vatta, recently Creatively bespoke vases, renovated, is located in lamps, cups, plates and historical town Opicina. It is décor are some of ceramic open daily as a café, patisserie potter Paul Vecchiet’s artistic and homemade ice-cream creations. He creates Italian shop. An absolute must majolica as well as clay oven are the mignon chocolate dishes and crockery, all with pastries, Karst bakery creams skilled artisanship. He himself in different variations and carries out all the processing, Chantilly cream maltagliati baking and decorating in his (irregular pastry squares).This laboratory, located between café is also recommended for Via Crispi and via Rossetti, a quick lunch (sandwiches, next to the showroom. savoury croissants and salads) for those arriving by Opicina Qui gatta ci cova tram way. Via dell’Eremo, 243 Via Rossetti, 13/b 34124 Trieste Caffè Vatta Tel. +39 040 7600343 Via Nazionale, 38 - Opicina 34016 Trieste How to arrive Tel. +39 040 215313 Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 12 km / 26 min How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 4.5 km / 6 min

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VIDALI ERIK ROSSO DI FERRO Bespoke handmade stone Rosso di Ferro is the name of craft, customised on request. artist Francesco Fragiacomo’s Artistic creations ranging studio. Through constant from fountains, tables, artistic research, he has vases made out of Karst developed a skill to shape marble. Artist Erik Vidali’s the essence of creations in a hands create this artisanal variety of colours, starting craft. Everyday objects both with the processing of functional and artistic are ceramics. Materials used are produced by traditional stoneware and porcelain, methods using stone decorated with enamels and exclusively. The art of stone baked at high temperatures. masonry and sculpture is Decor items, mirrors, vases, passed down from generation bowls, cups, glasses and lamps to generation keeping the are thus created. He also culture alive both historically holds pottery courses in his and economically. workshop.

Vidali Erik Rosso di ferro Opicina, 905 Via Crosada, 3 34016 Trieste 34122 Trieste Tel. +39 040 212548 Tel. +39 040 304398 www.rossodiferro.it How to arrive [email protected] Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 4.5 km / 6 min How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 15 km / 33 min

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IL GIULIA LE TORRI Shopping mall D’EUROPA A shopping mall located Shopping mall in Via Giulia, in the centre ‘Le due Torri’ shopping mall of Trieste. It is on public is located in Via Svevo. It is transport routes (line 9 also on public bus route n.29. and line 6). Besides shops The mall comprises of one selling electronics, optics, hundred and twenty shops jewellery, clothing, shoes and (including shops that sell accessories there are also a shoes, clothing, electronics few eating spots, cafés and a and a range of other large supermarket. products), a big supermarket, Opening hours: multiplex cinema, a leisure 9.30 am to 7.30 pm area, a playground and an From Monday to Saturday; information point for shows 10.00 am to 7.30 pm on and events. Shops are open Sundays daily at the following times: 12.00 to 9.00 pm (Monday), Il Giulia 9.00 am to 9.00 pm (Tuesday Via Giulia, 75/3 34126 Trieste to Saturday) and 10.00 am to Tel. +39 040 578471 9.00 pm on Sundays. www.ilgiulia.it [email protected] The dining area is open until late at night. How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 11 km / 21 min Le Torri d’Europa Via Svevo, 14 34100 Trieste Tel. +39 040 637448 www.torrideuropa.com [email protected] How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 13 km / 30 min

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[ muggia] BIRRA ARTIGIANALE PASTICCERIA CAMPAGNOLO TRIESTINA ULCIGRAI The winds that blow in Trieste Founded as a family run city inspired the names of patisserie, it is now a well these artisan beers and they established business. It are crafted with this precise specialises in producing fresh environmental association in cakes, typical Trieste products mind: Bora Ciara (Weizen), (such as putizza, presnitz, Borin (Pils), dark Bora (special pinza, Linzer cakes) and red) and Neverin (stout). traditional bakery (Panettoni Two brothers, Angelo and and Colombe, Christmas Michele Campagnolo, started and Easter cakes). Some to produce their beers in of their own original and 2007. Campagnolo beers most popular pastries are are actually served in several Favette Triestine, Marzapane good restaurants and can be triestino (in various flavours) bought at the brewery outlet. and Veneziana, a widely Open from Monday to Friday appreciated popular snack. (8.00 am to 5.00 pm). Opening hours: 8.00 am - 1.00 pm and 3.00 pm - 6.00 pm, Birra artigianale Campagnolo Zenit snc di A. e M. Campagnolo from Monday to Saturday. Strada delle Saline, 30 34015 Muggia Pasticceria Triestina Ulcigrai Tel. +39 040 9234329 Via Petronio, 1/a www.birracampagnolo.it 34015 Muggia [email protected] Tel. +39 040 232335 www.pasticceriatriestina.it How to arrive [email protected] Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 18 km / 16 min How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 19 km / 17 min / 149 / BACK to INDEX / OLTRECASELLO / TRIESTE LISERT

MONTEDORO [ SEZANA] FREE TIME Montedoro Free Time VINAKRAS shopping centre is located in Karst viticulture on the border Muggia but easily accessible is well represented by the Kras from Trieste by city bus winery, one of the largest in number 20 from Central this area. It uses grapes from Station. Here you can find different Karst vineyards as many shopping opportunities, well as its own produce. Upon events, games and request, you can arrange entertainment. The building tastings and tours. Terrano was constructed with a excels as a red wine and there futuristic design and has huge is a varied choice of white glass windows with bright and wines: Malvasia, Chardonnay, luminous areas. Sauvignon, Vitovska Griganja. Opening hours: Wines can be purchased in 9.00 am - 8.30 pm the winery store. from Monday to Saturday, 10.00 am - 8.00 pm Sundays. Vinakras Sejmiska pot, 1/a 6210 Sezana Montedoro Free Time Tel. +386 (0)5 7313444 Via Flavia di Stramare, 119 www.vinakras.si 34015 Muggia [email protected] Tel. +39 040 232320 www.montedorofreetime.it How to arrive [email protected] Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 49.7 km / 35 min How to arrive Exit Monfalcone Est - Trieste Lisert, 19 km / 17 min

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[ TRIESTE. pIazza unità d'italia] PHOTO Gabriele Crozzoli / 151 / BACK to INDEX / “ Make voyages. Attempt them. There is nothing else. ” Tennessee Williams

In the past, wayfarers who walked across the Medieval contrade in Friuli would often come across a Glisiut (cesiol in Venetian dialect). A small votive chapel situated at the main crossroads that offered shelter. The inscriptions that can still be read, invited travellers to rest, meditate and pray. A way to recover strength and thoughts and then continue the journey with renewed spirit. Today our journeys are characterised by speed: technology is our unavoidable companion. This guide aims to recover a forgotten sense and invites modern travellers to slow down, observe and learn. Even for you, as it was for the ancient traveller, the journey will be easier after these rests.

Autovie Venete 0432 925111 - 040 3189235 www.autovie.it

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