WALIA journal 35(1): 1-11, 2019 Available online at www.Waliaj.com ISSN 1026-3861 © 2019 WALIA The Persian influence on the traditional arts of Kashmir with special reference to textile industry Safina Latif 1, Zain Ul Wahab 1,*, S. Manzoor Shah 2, Muhammad Tehmash Khan 3 1Department of Conservation Studies, Hazara University, Mansehra, Pakistan 2Pro Vice Chancellor, Hazara University, Mansehra, Pakistan 3Department of Archaeology, Hazara University, Mansehra, Pakistan Abstract: In Kashmir, textile design forms a very important part of various traditional crafts such as wood carvings, paper mashie and carpet industry. Over the last few centuries, these crafts not only absorbed local tradition, but also are infused by the Persian cultural interaction with a clear visibility of its patterns and motifs of natural beauty. This impact was a result of constant political, cultural, and artistic exchange between the two regions. This research aims at tracing the origin of these motifs and patterns and examining the influences through an in-depth analysis. The study also highlights the impact of the rule of Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani and Sultan Zain ul Abidin in promoting the arts and crafts of Kashmir. Moreover, it focuses on the first Shawl industry established during the Sultanate period as the Shawls were decorated with Paisley patterns. Kashmir was well disposed to Persian arts and crafts that it was known as Iran-e-Sagheer. The designers, artists and craftsmen used a range of similar patterns which imply similitude to Persia. Through the comparative analysis, results show the ascendency of Persian design patterns and motifs in Kashmiri textile art. Different cultures has an impact on Kashmiri culture, but it is highly influenced by Persian culture especially in field of art and crafts and linguistic. The beautiful design patterns of Kashmir are results of immigrants and the craftsmen of Persia. One can tell the origin and the story of Kashmir by the cursorily glance on the textiles of Kashmir. Key words: Cultural heritage; Interpretation; Historic motifs; Comparative analysis; Textiles 1. Introduction cultures especially the Persian and Central Asian culture. The handicrafts of a culture or region is *Kashmir has superabundant glorious Art and developed by aesthetic sense of its art and craft. Craft, with cultural and architectural heritage which These expressions can be seen in the folk works of has a deep influence of Persia on it. The interaction craftsmen of textile and wood. The cultural history of of ancient Kashmir with Persia is clearly visible in its Kashmir can also be explained with its geographical arts and crafts, and the traditional clothing. The location. It will not be fallacious to say that the cultural imprint of Persia, which sustained great climate and the natural beauty of Kashmir are one of impact on Kashmir, emerged in 14th century with reasons of its robust traditions of arts and literature. the establishment of Sultanate rule. Henceforth, the Further, the long winter season may explain the skilled men, in the subject of arts and crafts, from Kashmiri tradition in textile art. Persia embarked on the route to Kashmir from their The textile of Kashmir is influenced by different native areas of Khurasan, Fars and Mawra-ul-Nahar. cultures but Persian culture has much influenced The history of Kashmir exists before thousands of this art of Kashmir but the literature does not years. Probably the “Aryans” were the first civilized provide much information relating to this impact on people who went Kashmir from West Pakistan, that this geographical region. Some of the studies is, 21 Hindu rajas (4000 B.C. - 1324 A.D.) ruled over conducted in past only shows the invasion of the Kashmir and 18 of these ruling dynasties were different rulers in Kashmir but no one studied the Kashmiri. During the reign of the most famous ruler textile designing and textile patterns of Kashmir. Raja Liltadat (762-715 A.D.), Kashmir was bordered This study will contribute in the literature by with Indian Ocean in south and towards north it was focusing only the textile designs and patterns of bordered with Bokhara, Samarkand and Dakkan Kashmir which will be the future guidance for the plateau whereas Afghanistan in the west. textile designers and artisans who purely wants to Culture is referred as the combination of human study the textile of Kashmir. developed strategies and the aesthetic sense of surviving effectively. Kashmir remained rich and Research objectives important trade route so it is influenced by different The key objectives of this research paper were to examine the influence of Persia on the textile designs of Kashmir and the formation of their design. * Corresponding Author. 1 Latif et al. / WALIA, 35(1) 2019, Pages: 1-11 Further, the research will aim to understand the authorities in this area, to analyze the importance of revolution that was brought by Syed Mir Ali patterns in religious perspective. Moreover, a brief Hamadani when he entered in Kashmir. The research study of miniature paintings of Mughal Period will be also focuses on the investigation of motifs, patterns analyzed to understand the importance of Persian and designs like Lotus, Paisley, Graphs, motifs in Mughal era. This will enhance the value of Pomegranates etc., that were added in textile art and Kashmiri art and craft in literature as well as in craft of Kashmir after the entrance of different foreign market. Fig. 1: Map of Kashmir in 14th century 2. Methodology the social order of Kashmir. Consequently, the Sultans and the nobles of Kashmir engaged in The study is conducted using the Descriptive matrimonial relationship with each other. They also Qualitative research method. The design related married at the places of Jammu, Kashtiwar, Sindh, etc information is collected using semi-structured to disperse their social activities. (Bamzai, 1994) The interviews, observations and visual data. The Kashmiri claim the existence of their national dress participants of research are art and craft instructors, in Kashtiwar which resembles the Kashmiri dress authors and skilled persons in the field of textile art and this affirms their journey to this place in the region of Kashmir. (Lawrence, 1895) Muslim rulers and nobles also married with 3. Literature Review Hindu women (Hashmatullah Khan, 1992) permitting them to retain their faith and names. Persian Influence on Culture and Language They used to take part in each of their festivals During early days of Islam, Iranians entered making a composite society. The women of elite Kashmir and left with traces and marks of their families used to cover themselves with veil to avoid culture and language. In the 8th Hijri, the first saint public gaze (Lawrence, 1895) who came Kashmir was Hazrat Mir Syed Ali Many ulemas (Islamic scholars) from outside of Hamadani along with Iranian Sadat families. He Kashmir came their while Islam was spreading in brought in Kashmir the revolutionary and epoch- Kashmir. The local ulemas learned from pious men making changes in the civilization, culture and residing in Srinagar and then proceeded Herat and religious aspects. Mir Syed Ali Hamadani came with Samarkand to undergo training. (Hasan, 1959) In highly skilled Irani men and introduced the art of Kashmir many castes like Dars, Magres, Rainas etc carving, mosaic work, Samawar making, carpet were residing there. Therefore, Sufis tried to bridge designing and cloth making. He also brought with the gap between different castes and classes (Hasan, him different seeds of fruits and trees from Iran and 1959). The towns and cities became the hub of Afghanistan including Lilly Hyacinth, Saffron etc. socio-cultural activities because besides Jagirdars, Moreover, he introduced some changes in dresses of the provincial officials lived in these centers. These Kashmiri including Iranian shirt. actions resulted the assimilation of social and The Iranians brought new customs with them cultural diversity. (Mattoo, 1988) and mixed with locals of valley and got influenced by 2 Latif et al. / WALIA, 35(1) 2019, Pages: 1-11 During the reign of Sultan Sikandar, Persian Bilal Shah or Bulbul Shah language flourished and Kashmir was considered as The real name of Bulbul Shah was Sharaf-ud-Din the center of Persian language and literature. Ghani Sayyid Abdur Rahman Turkistani. He was a spiritual Kashmiri, Kamal and Sheikh Yaqoob Surfi were some disciple of a Khalifa of Suhrawardi tariq, Nimatullah of the famous Persian poets. Moreover, few great Wali Farsi. Bulbul Shah was the first Muslim who Persian poets also travelled to Kashmir from Iran. visited Kashmir in the reign of Raja Suhadeva, the Thus, making an addition of Persian words in the predecessor of Rinchan. He was one of the Muslim language of Kashmiris. scholars and preachers who inspired many people specifically Sultans (Bamzai, 1962). As a result of his Persian Influence in Ghaznavid Period efforts, he was succeeded in converting King Amir Nasiruddin Sabuktakin and then Sultan Rinchina to a Muslim and acquired state patronage Mahmud Ghaznavi entered in India accompanied by for the faith of Islam. The simplicity and the faith of thousands of Iranian scholars, writers, poets and Bulbul Shah led him to embrace Islam at his hands. physicians who brought with them Persian language, After accepting Islam, he named him Sultan Sadr-ud- customs and usages this led to serious and all-out Din and happened to be the first Muslim ruler of the impact of the Iranian cultural traditions on the Valley of Kashmir. After that many people embraced Indian culture. So, Iranian culture was effectively Islam and the place of congressional for the new grafted on the Indian soil which was enhanced more converts was built on Vitasta’ bank and named as and more with the passage of time (Javādī, 1991). Bulbul Lankar, which was the first Masjid in Kashmir.