Current Research in Textile Archaeology along the Nile Nosch, Marie Louise Bech Published in: Archaeological Textiles Review Publication date: 2019 Document version Publisher's PDF, also known as Version of record Citation for published version (APA): Nosch, M. L. B. (2019). Current Research in Textile Archaeology along the Nile. Archaeological Textiles Review, 61, 26-28. Download date: 09. Apr. 2020 Contents Archaeological Textiles Review Editorial 2 ATR is published by the Society Friends of ATN, hosted by Centre for Textile Articles Research in Copenhagen. Editors: Spinning for the gods? Preliminary 3 Eva Andersson Strand observations on prehistoric textile production Karina Grömer at Hierakonpolis, Egypt Jane Malcolm-Davies Anne Drewsen Ulla Mannering Textiles from Zawaydah, Naqada, Upper Egypt 14 Margarita Gleba, Mathieu Boudin Scientifi c committ ee: and Grazia A. Di Pietro John Peter Wild, UK Lise Bender Jørgensen, Norway Late Antique textiles from Egypt in the 24 Elisabeth Wincott Heckett , Ireland Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen Johanna Banck-Burgess, Germany Cecilie Brøns, Ina Vanden Berghe and Irene Skals Tereza Štolcová, Slovakia Heidi Sherman, USA Blue dyed textiles in Early Iron Age Europe: 42 Claudia Merthen, Germany Accessible or exclusive? Christina Margariti, Greece Patricia Hopewell and Susanna Harris Layout: Karina Grömer The Textiles of Üzüür Gyalan: Towards the 56 Cover: Charlott e Rimstad identifi cation of a nomadic weaving tradition in (Image: NCG Collection ÆIN 956, the Mongolian Altai Copenhagen – Late Antique textile) Kristen Rye Pearson, Chuluunbat Mönkhbayar, Galbadrakh Enkhbat and Jamsranjav Bayarsaikhan Print: Grafi sk University of Copenhagen Time looms over us: Observations from an 71 experimental comparison of medieval English loom-types Subscription information: To purchase Gwendoline Pepper a copy of the latest Archaeological Textiles Review, please visit: Nets – Knots – Lace: Early 16th century www.webshophum-en.ku.dk/shop/ 88 archaeological-textiles-333c1.html. headdresses from East Tyrol Information about institutional Beatrix Nutz subscriptions is also available here. This will also provide membership of A mysterious litt le piece: A compound-weave 114 the Friends of ATN. textile incorporating sea silk from the Natural Visit www.atnfriends.com to learn more History Museum, London about the organisation. Felicitas Maeder, Penelope Walton Rogers and Margarita Gleba ISSN 2245-7135 Archaeological Textiles Review No. 61 Projects THEFBO. The cultural-historical importance of textile 122 production in the prehistoric wetland sett lements Johanna Banck-Burgess Project reassessment of iconic textiles at the Halle Museum: 128 Ditfurt, Latdorf and Unterteutschenthal Friederike Hertel and Karina Grömer Textile activity and its tools in the culturally mixed framework of 139 Sicily between the 13th and the fi fth centuries BCE Gabriella Longhitano Project TT-nhm: A record of textile tools in the archives 145 of the Natural History Museum Vienna Ingrid Schierer and Karina Grömer A new international project: The fabric of my life 150 Marie-Louise Nosch The Margrethe Hald archive: Digitisation and communication 152 Ulrikka Mokdad Obituary Christina Rinaldo 1944-2019 153 Conferences Current research in textile archaeology along the Nile 154 Marie-Louise Nosch FIBRES in early textiles from prehistory to 1600 CE 156 Emma Smith and Sarah Hudson Household textiles (and production) in and 159 beyond the Viking Age Eva Andersson Strand Ancient textile production from an interdisciplinary approach 160 Jennifer Beamer Silk in Ancient Greece and its resonance 162 Eva Andersson Strand Resources: New Books and News 164 Archaeological Textiles Review No. 61 1 Editorial Editorial Welcome to the world of textiles 2019. We hope at the Centre for Textile Research in Copenhagen that that everybody across the many diff erent textile there are many more projects which are not reported communities of Europe and beyond have had a here. We therefore encourage everybody to share their fruitful year with great events and huge successes! knowledge and experience about the many textile- related projects and conferences which take place The transformation of the Archaeological Textiles each year with their colleagues through ATR. Check Review (ATR) into a mainly internet-based journal the back of this issue for instructions on submitt ing is almost complete. It is still possible to purchase a articles and project reports, which are welcome before hard copy of the journal from the print-on-demand 1 May 2020. We encourage you to send them to us service at the University of Copenhagen’s webshop. as soon as they are ready, so that we can spread the However, we see a declining demand for this service editing work over the year and have appropriate time and it is a questionable how long it will be fi nancially for the peer review process. viable to continue it. But even if ATR is not available For the coming ATRs we would like to put more focus as a printed copy in the future, the editors have no on needle binding/nålebinding and fabric created plans to close the journal. There is defi nitely a need by looping techniques in general. We see a need to for a specialist journal in our fi eld and in the wider propose appropriate terminology and protocols for academic community because we cannot be sure that recording it, and if anyone would like to contribute all the articles published here would have found their to this topic, please do contact the editors (our email way into other journals. As long as we maintain high addresses are at the back of the issue). standards for our work, ATR will survive. To that end, Please also remember to send us news of PhDs, we would like to thank the many excellent and hard- publications and conferences at any time so that we working peer reviewers who have helped the authors can be continue to be a hub for the archaeological improve their contributions this year. textile community. We also welcome ideas for This year’s issue contains an interesting mix of articles contributions for forthcoming issues – send us your from a range of time periods and geographical areas, as ideas and proposals so we can discuss how best to well as textile-related projects and experimental works, accommodate them. The deadline is 1 May each year. which we hope readers will appreciate. Altogether, The next annual general meeting (AGM) of the Friends there are eight articles and six project descriptions of ATR will be held during NESAT XIV in Oulu in which very well illustrate the many aspects of textile Finland in May 2020 - we hope to see you there. More research currently underway. It is truly inspirational information is on our homepage at www.atnfriends. to see how many excellent researchers working in com. this fi eld are capable of creating new and innovative projects with exciting results. We know from our work The Editors 2 Archaeological Textiles Review No. 61 Conferences Current research in textile archaeology along the Nile 21-22 January 2019, Copenhagen, Denmark The TAES Network (Textile Archaeology in Egypt conservation issues stemming from inadequate and Sudan) was launched in 2018 and this new TAES storage in the past. Her paper was called Reappraisal of initiative, the Current Research in Textile Archaeology the Late Antique Textile Collection from the Department of along the Nile conference, was inspired by the growing Antiquity, Hungarian Museum of Fine Arts. international research community of scholars working Ulrikka Mokdad (CTR) reported on progress on the with textile cultures along the Nile. It took place on project Spiral Textiles. Ancient Techniques – Modern 21 January 2019 at the University of Copenhagen, hands. A papyrus fragment, dated to the third and and was followed on 22 January by a presentation by fourth centuries CE and kept in the Kelsey Museum of Egyptologist and curator of the Egyptian textiles in the Archaeology at Michigan University (United States), National Museum of Denmark, Anne Haslund, and by was the origin of the project. It contains no text but is a visit to the Egyptian collection in the Ny Carlsberg covered with painted spiral patt erns. In 2016, textile Glyptotek. The event was hosted by Egyptologist scholars Ines Bogensberger and Julia Galliker invited Anne Drewsen, art historian and handweaver Ulrikka textile craftspeople worldwide to experiment with Mokdad, and archaeologist Elsa Yvanez at the Center this patt ern (see ATR 58/2016, 102-104). The intention for Textile Research (CTR). The conference day was was that skilled craftspeople would recreate the particularly intended to showcase new research spiral patt ern and test whether it could have been projects currently undertaken in the fi eld of textile made for the purpose of textile design. The scholarly archaeology along the Nile valley, many of which are papyrological studies and relevant bibliography were led by young researchers. The papers were divided shared through a website and Facebook page. At the into two sessions: Methods and Techniques. Renewed deadline in May 2017, more than 50 textile artists and Interest in Ancient Textiles from Egypt and Sudan and craftspeople from 27 countries had contributed to the Interdisciplinary Approaches and From the Field: Current project, using a wide range of textile techniques. The Research on Ancient Textiles. works have subsequently been exhibited in several Valentina Turina and Mathilde Borla (Turin countries. Museo Egizio, Soprintendenza Archeologia Citt à Cary Karp (Uppsala University) gave a paper Metropolitana di Torino) gave a paper on The Study of entitled The Museological Value of Misatt ribution, which Textiles of the Museo Egizio: A Work in Progress, which explored the gaps and pitfalls between museological presented their ongoing multidisciplinary work on att ributions, terminology, technical features translated the museum’s collection of shrouds, nets, tunics and from one language to another, and charts and technical bedcovers. This includes, in particular, entire Old drawings. Examples included ‘nålebinding’, ‘slipstitch Kingdom tunics, knott ed pile furnishing textiles, crochet’, and ‘vansöm’.