The Disko Bay Area on the Diskobugten på Grønlands vest- Qeqertarsuup Tunua Kalaallit west coast of Greenland is at kyst er midtpunkt for en enestå- Nunaata Kitaani tassaavoq the heart of a unique and spec- ende og storslået arktisk natur. Issittumi pinngortitaq naleqan- tacular Arctic environment. Den rejsende vil blandt andet ngitsoq, tupinnarluinnartoq. The traveller will experience opleve knejsende fjelde, bru- Angalasup naammattuugassa- rising mountains, rushing sende elve, frodige kratheder og rai qaqqat kingittut, kuuit kuup- streams, lush shrublands, and kælvende gletsjere, der skubber palaartut, orpigaqarf it naggo- calving glaciers, pushing giant gigantiske stykker indlandsis ud rissut iigartartullu iluliarsuarnik chunks of ice into the sea. i havet. Sermersuarmeersunik imaanut aniatitsisut. In this photo book, the pho- I dette fotoværk tager fotografen tographer and writer Bo og forfatteren Bo Normander Uani atuakkami assilisanik tun- Normander invites the reader læseren med på opdagelse i den- ngaveqartumi assiliisup atu- to explore the diversity of na- ne unikke del af Arktis. Omtrent akkiortullu Bo Normanderip ture and climate in this unique en fjerdedel af Grønlands be- atuartoq Issittup ilaanut immik- part of the Arctic. Roughly folkning bor ved Diskobugten, kooruteqarluartumut takornar- one fourth of Greenland's og området er ikke alene kendt niartippaa. Kalaallit Nunaata population lives in the Disko for naturens skønhed og de inuisa sisamararterutingajaat KO BAY IS AR D EA Bay Area. The area is known mange isfjelde men også som et Qeqertarsuup Tunuani najuga- E N H AT not only for its natural beau- omdrejningspunkt for den glo- qarput, tamannalu pinngortitap T UR N O ty and the many icebergs, but bale klimadebat. Det skyldes, at pinnissusia piinnarnagu kisianni I G E K also as a hub for the glob- klimaforandringerne er særligt nunarssuatsinni silaannaap allan- L T I al climate debate, as climate synlige her med stigende tem- ngulernera pillugu oqallinnermi A M M A change is particularly visible peraturer og øget afsmeltning af qitiulluni. Tamatumunnga si- I L I here with rising temperatures indlandsisen. laannaap allanngulernerata maa- C D IS and increased melting of the ni malunnarluarnera, silaannaap D K Greenland ice sheet. Med denne bog i hånden får læ- kissatsilernera, Sermersuullu N O A B seren et unikt indblik i Grønlands U aakkiartornerulernera pissutaal- E GT With this book in hand, the natur og klima på tværs af de R EN lutik. U T reader gets an exclusive insight skiftende årstider og med blik for A A A into Greenland's nature and de forandringer, der er i vente. Atuagaq una tigummiarlugu N S climate across the changing atuartup periarf ssaqarf gillu- U S seasons and with a look into alerpaa Kalaallit Nunaata pin- S I P the changes likely to happen ngortitaassutaa klimaalu ukiup in the near future. ingerlanerani allanngorartuartoq U L paasisaqarf gissallugu, aammalu L A allannguutissat siunissami pisus- GREENLANDIC SEASONS L I sat takorloorsinnaalerlugit. S BO NORMANDER AQ TIT OR Q NG E I PIN QER AN TA NU FORLAGET NATUR & MILJØ, 2016 RS U ISBN: 978-87-999180-0-3 U T WWW.NORMANDER.DK U P 190 191 PROLOGUE 7 PROLOG / SIULEQQIUT MAP 8 KORT / NUNAP ASSINGI INTRODUCTION 10 INTRODUKTION / AALLAQQAASIUT ARCTIC NATURE 18 DEN ARKTISKE NATUR / ISSITTUMI PINNGORTITAQ A CHANGING CLIMATE 38 ET KLIMA I FORANDRING / KLIMA ALLANNGORIARTORTOQ GREENLANDIC SEASONS WORLD HERITAGE IN ILULISSAT 56 – NATURE AND CLIMATE IN THE DISKO BAY AREA VERDENSARVEN I ILULISSAT / ILULISSANI NUNARSUARMIUNUT ERIAGISASSAQ – NATUR OG KLIMA I DISKOBUGTEN – QEQERTARSUUP TUNUANI PINNGORTITAQ SILALLU PISSUSAA DISKO – THE VOLCANIC ISLAND 76 VULKANØEN DISKO / QEQERTARSUAQ INNERMIK ANITSISARFIUSIMASOQ SEA, SUN, AND SAND – THE ARCTIC SUMMER 98 COPYRIGHT © BO NORMANDER 2016 SOL, SAND OG VAND – ARKTISK SOMMER / SEQINEQ, SIOQQAT IMARLU – ISSITTUMI AASAQ ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS BOOK MAY BE REPRODUCED OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC OR MECHANICAL, INCLUDING PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR BY ANY INFORMATION STORAGE OR COLD, SNOW, AND ICE – THE ARCTIC WINTER 116 RETRIEVAL SYSTEM NOW KNOWN OR HEREAFTER INVENTED WITHOUT THE PRIOR PERMISSION IN WRITING OF THE PUBLISHER. KULDE, SNE OG IS – ARKTISK VINTER / ISSI, APUT SERMERLU – ISSITTUMI UKIUUNERANI ISBN: 978-87-999180-0-3 HUMAN AND NATURE 132 TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS: BO NORMANDER MENNESKET OG NATUREN / INUK PINNGORTITARLU EDITORIAL BOARD: JACOB SØRENSEN, METTE FROST, MARTIN BO HANSEN, TORKEL GISSEL NIELSEN, ULLA SKOVSBØL, MARTIN EMIL BLICHER AND GUSTAV BECH SETTLEMENT LIFE 150 DESIGN: JOHAN ROSENMUNTHE BYGDELIV / NUNAQARFIMMI INUUNEQ TRANSLATION FROM DANISH TO GREENLANDIC: NIELS-HENRIK LYNGE TRANSLATION FROM DANISH TO ENGLISH: BO NORMANDER AND DANIEL YEOW THE FUTURE OF DISKO 164 PRINTED IN LITHUANIA BY DESIGN AND PUBLISHING JSC KOPA DISKOBUGTEN I FREMTIDEN / QEQERTARSUAQ SIUNISSAMI THE PRODUCTION OF THIS BOOK WAS SUPPORTED BY HOTEL ARCTIC, WORLD OF GREENLAND, BANK OF GREENLAND, BANKNORDIK, HOTEL ICEFIORD, AND ICECAP TOURS. THANK YOU 183 TAK TIL / QUJAFFIGAAVUT NOTE ON PHOTOGRAPHS: COLOUR FILTERS, FLASHES, DRONES, AND SIMILAR AIDS HAVE NOT BEEN USED AND POST-PROCESSING OF IMAGES HAS BEEN MINIMISED TO MAINTAIN AN AS-CLOSE-TO-NATURE IMPRESSION AS POSSIBLE. ALL PHOTOS BY SOURCES AND RECOMMENDED LITERATURE 188 BO NORMANDER EXCEPT FOR PHOTOS ON P. 36 (LOWER) AND P. 37 BY WORLD OF GREENLAND’S BOAT KILDER OG ANBEFALET LITTERATUR / NAJOQQUTARISAT ATUAGASSATULLU INNERSUUSSAT CAMERA AND PORTRAIT ON THE INSIDE BACK COVER BY VIBEKE SKOUSEN. FIRST PUBLISHED IN DENMARK AND GREENLAND IN 2016 BY NATURE & ENVIRONMENT PUBLISHERS / FORLAGET NATUR & MILJØ HØJLANDSVANGEN 82, DK-2700 BRØNSHØJ, DENMARK WWW.NORMANDER.DK 2 3 Ukkusissat Niaqomat Qaarsut Uummannaq Saattut 1933 m NUUSSUAQ Ikerasak 1550 m 1877 m Qullissat SERMERSUAQ GREENLAND ICE SHEET VAIGAT Qeqertag QEQERTARSUAQ DISKO ISLAND ALLUTTOQ EQIP SERMIA GLACIER SERMERSUAQ GLACIER Kangerluk 1220 m LYNGMARK GLACIER Qeqertarsuaq 669 m Oqaatsut QEQERTAARSUUP TUNUA DISKO BAY Ilulissat KANGIA SERMEQ KUJALLEQ GLACIER Ilimanaq Kitsissuarsuit Qasigiannguit Akunnaaq Aasiaat Ikamiut 8 9 16 17 AQ TUMI PINNGORTIT SIT IS ARCTIC NATURE R U AT E N DEN ARKTISK 19 18 Characterized by its location in a tran- Naturen omkring Diskobugten er både Qeqertarsuup Tunuani pinngortitaq peqqarniiutiga- sition zone between the low Arctic and streng og gavmild, præget af beliggen- luni tukkusuuvoq, Issittup Avannaarsuata (højarktis) high Arctic, the biotope in the Disko Bay heden i overgangszonen mellem høj- Issittullu (lavarktis) ikaarsaariarfanni inissisimanini Area is both harsh and generous. The arktis og lavarktis. Den lange vinter pissutigalugu. Ukiuunerini sivisuuni aput, sermeq long winter with snow, ice, and extreme med sne, is og kulde gør det svært for issilu nunami uumasunut timmissanullu neriniarf- cold makes it difcult for mammals and pattedyr og fugle at fnde føde, mens luttitsisarput, aasaanerinili sivikitsuni seqinnerluar- birds to feed, while the short bright sum- den korte solrige sommer byder på en tartuni naasut naagasuartarput, taamalu sullinernut mer ofers an intense growing season for intens vækstsæson for planterne, der uumasunullu allanut nerisassaqartitsisarlutik. plants, which in turn provide food for igen udgør fødegrundlaget for mange many insects and animals. insekter og dyr. Tamaani naafusartut tassaanerupput qaqqat akornini narsaamanerni orpigannguaqarfit, paarnaquteqar- The natural vegetation in the Disko Bay Den naturlige vegetation i området be- fusut Issittullu naasuinit naafgineqartut. Naasut Area consists mainly of mountain heath står især af fjeldhede med dværgbuske, nalinginnaanerusut tassaapput avaalaqissat, paarna- with dwarf shrubs, heather, and low-Arc- lyng og lavarktiske urter. Typiske plan- qutit (paarnat), pilut (kigutaarnat), issutit paarnaqu- tic herbs. Typical plants are dwarf birch, ter er dværgbirk, fjeld-revling (”sorte- tikuluullu. Naasut assigiinngitsut Kalaallit Nunaanni black crowberry, bog bilberry, bell-heath- bær”), mosebølle, kantlyng og blålyng. namminermi naasartut 510-upput, taakkulu afaat er and blue heath. Greenland's fora in- Den grønlandske fora omfatter 510 sinneqalugit Qeqertarssuarmi eqqaanilu naasarput. cludes 510 native species and more than hjemmehørende arter, og langt over Pisuttuatsiaraanni qalipaatit assigiinngitsorpassuit, half of these are found in the Disko Bay halvdelen fndes i området omkring tunguusat, tungujortut, aappalaartut, aappalaartut Area. On a single short hike, it is possi- Diskobugten. Man kan på en enkelt qaquartut, sungaartut aappaluaartut, sungaartut qa- ble to experience a true palette of col- kort vandretur opleve et sandt farvespil qortullu takusassaapput – soorlu niviarsiaq tungu- ours in purple, blue, red, pink, orange, i lilla, blå, rød, lyserød, orange, gul og ngasumik aappalaartoq, Kalaallit Nunaanni inuiaa- yellow, and white – for example, the hvid – fx den rødviolette storblomstret sutsitsinni naasoq ilisarnaaterput, imaluunniit naasoq purple-fowered broad-leafed willow- gederams, Grønlands nationalblomst, tipigeqisoq qaqortunik sikkernilik, qajaasaq. herb, Greenland's national fower, or the eller den stærkt duftende hvidblomstre- highly fragrant white-fowered marsh de mose-post. labrador-tea. Snow gentian. Sne-ensian. Tungujortunnguit. 20 21 The snow bunting arrives from North Snespurven ankommer fra Nord- Qupaloraarsuk upernalaaginnartoq Ameri- The glaucous gull is very elegant with Gråmågen er elegant med den ly- Naajarujussuaq pinnersuuvoq, tunua qaser- America