nº 57 septiember 2017 XVII year Francisco J. Mora Mas Rector of the Universitat Politècnica de València AITEX create a technical unit for the cosmetics sector AITEX Review INDEX Septiembre 2017 número 57 04 Technological News 08 AITEX creates a dedicated cosmetics technical unit 14 Interview with Fancisco J. Mora Mas, rector of the Valencia Polytechnic University 18 Institutional logic 22 A basic survival kit for the digital environment 24 New regulations (UE) 2016/425 relating to Personal Protection Equipment 26 LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX® - Certification for leather and leather goods at every stage of production 27 AITEX gains recognition as a FIFA testing centre 28 The digital transformation of a company and orientation towards the client and their needs 30 Textile solutions and sports materials that enhance physical activity 34 Research and Development of technical, functional and sustainable materials designed for use in Green Cities 36 Research and Development of pattern-making and garment-making for clothing adapted to special body morphology 38 Research and Development of innovative technical monofilaments for functional artificial turf for sports and residential use 40 Research and Development of functional finishes applied to technical fabrics and garments high in sustainable content 42 Encapsulation systems for applying mosquito repellent to textiles 44 Sound-absorbent designer furniture 46 LIFE PHOTOCITYTEX – Photocatalytic textiles for scrubbing contaminated air 48 The development and validation of detergents with antiperspirant properties 50 European projects 55 Publicly-financed projects 56 News Editorial We are heading into the last stretch of the year buoyed by hopeful This issue also includes a new section covering AITEX’s activities with signs coming from the economic situation of our sector recently pu- respect to reinforcing its institutional dimension and which are de- blished by CITYC which show inter-annual business growth rates of signed to have maximum impact on our Valencian associates. This 3.8% in textiles and 3.4% in garment-making, growth of nearly 10% initiative grew from the Institute’s response to its origins and creation in exports and a rallying in both employment and plant investment. within the Comunitat Valenciana. We still have a long way to go but these achievements are a direct Another topic we look at in this issue is the new European regulation result of the continuous efforts made by our industry to keep moving UE 2016/425 relating to PPE and which establishes all the require- forward and invest in knowledge, innovation and the adoption of new ments that an article must comply with from design and manufacture management systems, among other factors. to retail sale, to guarantee the user’s health and safety. The report In the last issue of the year we interview the Rector of the Polytechnic highlights the main differences with respect to previous legislation. University of Valencia (PUV), Francisco J. Mora, who unveils some The issue will also discuss a key topic: The digital transformation of of the challenges he faces during his second term as rector. The- a company and orientation towards the client and their needs. What se challenges include promoting open, global education and driving is digital transformation, how can it help a company and how should research projects which are closely tied to innovation and progress it be introduced? We will reveal all the answers here and offer an to place the PUV in a position to compete with the world’s leading interesting insight into the use of digital marketing in general and its education institutions. applications in the textile sector in particular. Mora underlines the close collaboration between the UPV and AI- Our R+D section will summarise the results of the ECOMATEX, IN- TEX with respect to the transfer of technology and innovation, work VESPAT, INNOTURF, FUN2GARMENT and MICOTECH R+D projects lines he considers essential to our country’s future. This includes joint and the Success Stories section will report on joint R+D projects ca- R+D projects, the AITEX Chair and the University Master’s Degree in rried out with Sancal Diseño and SPB Suavizantes and Plastificantes Textile Engineering. Bituminosos, S.L Another article talks about AITEX’s Cosmetic Technical Unit which the Institute has opened and which provides a complete new line of activities for us including technical consultancy on the development of new formulae, the characterisation of cosmetic products, consul- tancy services for packaging, legislation and regulations and environ- mental-impact studies. This new facility has enabled the Institute to broaden its resources to improve the competitiveness of the sector and increase business opportunities. AITEX, Instituto Tecnológico Textil, es una asociación privada sin ánimo de lucro, que nace en 1985 por iniciativa de los empresarios textiles y de la Genera- litat Valenciana a través del IVACE, Instituto Valenciano de Competitividad Empresarial (antes IMPIVA), y forma parte de la red de institutos REDIT. Edita: AITEX, Instituto Tecnológico Textil Plaza Emilio Sala, 1 E-03801 Alcoy • Tel. 96 554 22 00 • Fax 96 554 34 94 • [email protected] • www.aitex.es Diseño y maquetación: weaddyou, S.L. Depósito Legal: V-2170-2001 • ISSN: 2173-1012 Memoria Anual de AITEX La responsabilidad por las opiniones emitidas en los artículos publicados corresponden exclusivamente a sus autores. accesible desde Se autoriza la publicación de los artículos de esta Revista indicando su procedencia. www.aitex.es _ technology news There follows a selection of some of the innovations and advances with applications in the textile industry, compiled from a range of scientific and technical sources (articles in the scientific press, patents, conference publications, etc.) which may prove of use to manufacturers in the context of their processes of detection of opportunities and innovation Experimental study on basalt textile reinforced concrete under uniaxial tensile loa- ding This study focuses on 24 experimental cases to investigate the influences of textile layers, prestress levels and short steel fibers on the tensile behavior of basalt textile reinforced con- crete (TRC). The tensile behavior of basalt TRC is considerably influenced by the number of textile layers. The TRC specimens with three to five textile layers exhibit pronounced stra- Constru-textiles in-hardening behavior and consequently, prominent enhancement of tensile behavior and optimized cracking patterns. For the prestressed TRC specimens, evident increases in first- crack stress are observed with increasing prestress levels. Furthermore, the TRC specimens with an appropriate prestress level exhibit increasingly favorable tensile response with the rising volume fraction of short steel fibers. Author: Yunxing Du, , Mengmeng Zhang, Fen Zhou, Deju Zhu Reference: Construction and Building Materials, Volume 138, 1 May 2017, Pages 88–100 doi: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.conbuildmat.2017.01.083 All-fabric interconnection and one-stop production process for electronic textile sensors This study developed and tested an all-fabric interconnection and one-stop production pro- cess for electronic textiles that are combined with electronic technologies on textiles. This is a one-stop production method for electronic textiles consisting of multilayer structured fa- Smart and functional brics for implementation of electronic functions in which precise circuit patterns are formed, textiles conductive materials or conductive circuits on each fabric layer are electrically connected and individual fabric layers are fixed to the base layer through embroidery, while fabric layers are layered one by one using a commercial computer numeric control embroidery machine. The electrically connected parts are not likely to be broken by external forces, all parts to be connected to external devices are formed on one piece of fabric and workability and productivity are improved so that manufacturing costs can be reduced and the textiles can be mass produced. Author: Jung-Sim Roh Reference: Volume: 87 issue: 12, page(s): 1445-1456, July 1, 2017 doi: https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517516654108 Macro-structured carbon clusters for developing waterproof, breathable conductive cotton fabric Unique macro-structured carbon clusters are used to develop cost effective con- ductive cotton fabric. Nanoscale carbon particles are stabilized into macro-structu- red carbon black/polymer composite with the help of an aqueous solution of natu- ral rubber latex, polyvinyl alcohol and other auxiliary additives. The ‘knife-over-roll’ technique is used to apply structured carbon black composite on the plain woven co- tton fabric. The lowest resistivity level achieved by this process is less than 60 ± 5.4 Spinning and fibers Ohm/cm2, which is very much promising for developing cost-effective, waterproof, and breathable conductive fabric. Waterproofness up to 95 cm water head column and breathability up to 4400 g/m2/24 h is achieved simultaneously. The two-dimensional topography reveals that single as well as aggregates of 2–9 carbon black particles are bounded by the blended matrix to form the macro-structured carbon compo- site. The lowest impedance of 0.5 Ohm is observed to remain stable up to the frequency of 105 Hz of AC supply voltage. Author: K. Sarkara, D. Dasb, T.K. Chakia, S. Chattopadhyaya Reference: Carbon Volume 116, May 2017, Pages 1–14 doi: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.carbon.2017.01.065 4 aitexaitex september enero 20172010__