INTERVIEW WITH he says of the Restaurant Nathan Outlaw property, which overlooks the charming and NATHAN tiny bay of Port Gaverne. “I'll never leave this place. And that's the first time I've ever felt like that.” OUTLAW Positively effervescent when it comes to Cornish produce, Nathan eschews trends and continues to write his set tasting menu at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw everyday depending on the catch that comes in. Sea to Shore For Nathan, who has made his home in Cornwall, West Country traditions and its bewitching landscape are all part of the county’s rich allure. An esteemed culinary career ignited by the sea, Michelin “If you arrive on a Friday evening, head star wizard Nathan Outlaw takes food columnist Chantal to the pub. I like the St Kew Inn – it’s a real Cornish hostelry that dates back to the 15th Borciani on a gourmand’s tour of the Cornish coastline! century. You might be lucky and hear some shanty songs being sung there. “There are so many beautiful beaches both on the north and south shores but I tend to visit Trevone most. I like it there MASTER OF SEAFOOD and the and Rick’s Seafood Restaurant was the place. seasonal, Nathan Outlaw has I just knew I had to do it. I told myself, if you're wowed food critics, trained under going to work somewhere, work in the best the tutelage of top chefs, earned place in the world for seafood’, and that was Ahis Michelin stars and stripes and is now Rick's,” Nathan says. “It was a brilliant time synonymous with the finest Cornish dining. to be working there. It was manically busy but Widely regarded as Cornwall’s greatest good fun.” chef in residence, Nathan’s eponymous Port Today, Nathan owns his two Michelin star Isaac fish restaurant holds two Michelin stars Restaurant Nathan Outlaw near Port Isaac and has also been crowned the UK’s top and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, located literally restaurant in the 2019 Food & Drink Guide – metres down the road, which boasts another for the second year running. Not bad for a boy coveted star. He usually spends a couple of who grew up hundreds of miles away in Kent. days a week in London, where he is slated to because there are two beaches; one day of the week. “For a Saturday lunch The son of a chef, aged eight Nathan open a new restaurant at The Goring hotel, sandy and one rocky so you get the head to somewhere like Appletons at was buttering toast during breakfast service where Kate Middleton famously spent the best of both worlds. I also like the little Trevibban Mill vineyard and winery in his dad’s kitchen. He worked in kitchens night before her wedding to Prince William. beach just below my restaurant at Port where you can enjoy relaxed food food on evenings and weekends and his first job “I'd be lying if I said I was ever not ready to Gaverne. It’s tiny, but when the tide is in a beautiful setting. out of Thanet’s catering college was at the come back to Cornwall after a couple of days low you can explore all the rock pools The Lost Gardens of Heligan are Intercontinental, followed by stints with in London. I mean, just look at it.” Nathan is with the kids. I love walking along the spectacular for a Saturday afternoon renowned chefs including Gary Rhodes and sitting by the kitchen pass in Port Isaac, and Camel Trail and the walk from Port stroll or the Eden Project has loads of Eric Chavot. gestures to the window where barrelling surf Isaac along to Port Quinn has amazing activities – you can zip line across the Passionate about seafood, Nathan soon races towards the Cornish shore and a winter’s views and will really blow away the entire place!” landed on Rick Stein’s doorstep in Padstow. sunset floods the sky with crimson and mauve cobwebs." If you’re a keen home cook, Nathan “It was 1996, and at the time there were only spindles. A foodie through and through, recommends heading to the Port really a handful of excellent fish restaurants “I'd always had my eye on this building,” Nathan has recommendations for every Isaac Seafood School down by the à 30 BritishTravelJournal.com BritishTravelJournal.com 31 With unmissable sights including nearby Marazion’s tidal island and ancient castle of St Michael’s Mount, plus the outlying microclimatic Isles of Scilly just a ferry hop away, Penzance has never been short of reasons to visit. “Down in the Penzance area, The Shore is run by Bruce Rennie and impressively he does it all himself. It’s just him in the kitchen and he cooks fantastic seafood. Ben's Cornish Kitchen is another Penzance gem, where diners can enjoy Cornish food cooked to a very high standard.” With unmissable sights including nearby Marazion’s tidal island and ancient castle of St Michael’s Mount, the Jubilee Pool, an Art Deco lido harbour where George Cleave and on Penzance's Promenade, plus the his team will show you the day’s catch outlying microclimatic Isles of Scilly and give advice on how to prepare and cook it. “On Saturday night, head to one of the really nice restaurants, my one's pretty good!” Nathan laughs. “And down the road at the Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen of course. Paul Ainsworth in Padstow is really good, a lovely restaurant right in the centre of the harbour town. “There are some superb restaurants © VisitBritain/ Jason Hawkes if you want to head further afield, too. I recently visited The Driftwood on the just a ferry hop away, Penzance has Roseland peninsula – Chris Eden is never been short of reasons to visit, but head chef there and is the only Michelin thanks to an influx of inventive chefs, its star Cornish chef ever so that’s a bit food scene is now really coming of age. special.” Another food haven not to miss is the town’s first smokehouse at The Cornish Barn where hip cocktails are served alongside home-smoked Cornish meat and fish. And with local vineyards, breweries, bountiful fish markets and farms across both shores, it’s little surprise Cornwall is a magnet for gourmands and top chefs alike. Round off your visit trying local ales in the seafaring inns that dot both magical coasts, Nathan says, and you’ll soon see why this eminent chef would never live anywhere else. à 32 BritishTravelJournal.com BritishTravelJournal.com 33 TASTE OF CORNWALL Marazion: Godolphin Arms Samuel Hood Linzee of HMS Temeraire, the Experience the time and tides of Cornwall guesthouse has been painstakingly restored like never before; guests can watch the and today mixes the old with contemporary shifting sands around Mounts Bay as the flashes of genius. A baby grand sits tide sweeps across the causeway eventually alongside abstract art, beamed bedrooms lapping at the hotel brickwork. Fall to sleep boast sumptuous open-plan polished to the sound of the sea and wake to the concrete bathrooms, and crackling in-room ever-changing vistas and sunrise above log burners contrast with vibrant Ercol St Michael’s Mount. For beach walks, furniture – staying here is an adventure. sensational sunsets and extraordinary Flooded with natural light, the property’s access to St Michael’s Mount, this plethora of picture windows make the most commanding position is second to none. of the jaw-dropping sea views. ABOVE: RESTAURANT NATHAN For the best views in the house, book the The stylish top loft bedroom is a OUTLAW remarkably well priced family apartment particular favourite and features an en Raw Mackerel, roast onion, parsnip, chilli oil in Room 11, where sea views abound and a suite bathroom glass ceiling that retracts so picture window captures the endless beauty guests can bathe under the stars with the of Mounts Bay and the iconic castle. view of the chapel spires. The graceful décor godolphinarms.co.uk extends to two apartments that adjoin the main house, which provide guests with even Penzance: Chapel House more privacy and living space. Apartment One of the most exquisitely designed 1 has no less than three balconies and boutique hotels in Cornwall, Chapel House panoramic views of Penzance harbour. An occupies a captivating Georgian townhouse exceptional find, with Bruce Rennie’s The in the old quarter. Dating back to 1790, Shore just footsteps away. with former inhabitants including Admiral chapelhousepz.co.uk WHERE TO STAY: North Cornwall: The Scarlet For the ultimate Cornish beach escape, this eco hotel set on the spectacular north coast is simply unbeatable and is an easy drive from Padstow and Port Isaac. With a reed- fringed outdoor pool, two clifftop hot tubs, an award-winning spa and a sea-view sauna, The Scarlet offers five-star relaxation rooted ABOVE: DRIFTWOOD in the heart and soul of its Cornish location. 40 Day Old Fillet of Ruby Red Beef Local art adorns the walls, the whole hotel Cooked Over Coals, Smoked Bone Marrow, smells incredible thanks to the Cornish Oula Garlic & Spinach followed by Lemon Verbena, toiletires and around every corner guests Shortbread, White Chocolate & Macadamia Nut are greeted with soul-soothing views of the sea. The adult-only retreat blends into BELOW: AINSWORTH the hillside overlooking the creamy surf of Paul Ainsworth at No. 6, Mawgan Porth and the marigold beach lies Padstow Trifle just footsteps through the wild grass meadow garden. Settle into a sea-view couples pod, enjoy fine dining with one of the best sunsets in Cornwall and then doze off to the sound of waves hitting the shore.