Aluminium – a much-discussed element published in Beauty Forum 2015 (12), 56-58 (Original title: Nimm's leicht – Aluminium) For some time past there has been much discussion on aluminium containing anti- perspirants and deodorants. Many of us are not aware that aluminium also is a com- ponent of hygiene products and many other cosmetic preparations and that it is ubi- quitous in our environment – literally wherever we go. luminium is associated with lightweight scale they can be used as water softening constructions such as airplanes, cars or agent. A bicycles, with conductor elements, alu- Alumina, unlike clay, consists of aqueous alu- minium wrap, food packaging or aluminium minium oxide; the natural mineral bauxite tubes. Just to mention some examples for the serves for the manufacturing of aluminium. versatile use of aluminium. The silvery and Alumina is soluble in acids and bases. It reacts matte light metal seems to be indestructible as with acetic acid to form basic aluminium ace- it protects itself by a thin oxide layer and it tate (aluminium diacetate) that, in analogy to doesn’t corrode like iron. The non-metallic aluminium chloride, has antiseptic and astrin- compounds of aluminium in the form of oxides gent characteristics or in other words, it elimi- and salts determine the shape of our earth nates pathogenic germs and has dehydrating, unlike any other element. Aluminium is the hemostatic and anti-inflammatory features. It is most frequent element in the Earth’s crust. well-known in the traditional folk medicine. In combination with tartaric acid, basic alu- Attributes range from rock-hard to healing minium acetate forms an aqueous solution which in the official German pharmaceutical Aluminosilicates are the silicic acid salts of catalogue (Rote Liste) still is mentioned as aluminium. They are the base substance for aluminium acetate tartrate solution 2; it has feldspar and mica and both together with soothing effects in the case of hyperhidrosis, quartz form huge mountain ranges such as the sun burns, swellings and insect bites. By the Central Alps where they constitute the primary way, corundum, sapphire and ruby are the rocks as for instance granite and gneiss. compact forms of aluminium oxide. These Weathering through water and carbon dioxide minerals are used for jewellery or also as leads to the formation of clay of which the main abrasive materials due to their hardness. components also are aqueous aluminosili- Speaking of mica: The powder gained from cates. Kaolin is a very pure variant and used mica schist (INCI: Mica, CI 77019) has partic- for the manufacturing of porcelain and pottery ular optical features and adds an extra gloss (earthenware) by means of shaping and firing. effect to powders or other decorative cosmetic The most part of the mined kaolin is used as a products that still can be intensified by coating. bulking agent in the paper production and in paints and plastics. A smaller part is used in Aluminium chloride white pigments for make-up preparations. Clay is an essential component of marl and silt Similar to sodium chloride in the kitchen, alu- whereas the latter one is a key feature in fertile minium chloride (INCI: Aluminium Chlorohy- loess soils and used either as a breathable drate) is a salt of the hydrochloric acid. As a building material (mud brick) or in its fired form hydrate, it contains water and is water-soluble as conventional brick. Another important con- similar to the aluminium acetate tartrate for struction material, cement, consists of a mix- medical purposes. ture of clay and lime (chalk). Silt in very pure quality is sold on the market as Aluminium absorption so-called terra sana (healing earth). Healing earth in cosmetic packs and masks absorbs Publications and media primarily discuss the the natural substances of the body and pene- aluminium content in particular products be- trates the integrated active agent components cause it is associated with health risks. It has into the skin in a controlled manner. The spe- to be mentioned though that there are scientific cific feature of clay as an ion exchanger is studies – above all those concerned with sta- particularly marked in zeolites, i.e. crystalline tistics – which do not comply with the required aluminosilicates; they occur naturally but they standards. The media-informed public however also are chemically produced. On a limited often experiences difficulties in distinguishing Kosmetik Konzept KOKO GmbH & Co.KG • D-42799 Leichlingen • Moltkestr. 25 • www.dermaviduals.com • page 1 of 3 Aluminium – a much-discussed element page 2 of 3 between valuable and non-viable studies. It is oxide slowly dissolve either through the expo- not a problem though as faulty results and sure to the acids contained in the products as hypotheses will be invalidated later on by other for instance fruit acids, through a low pH level scientists. This also applies for all the reports or through bases with a high pH level with the on the health risks of aluminium chloride. The effect that the aluminium then is released into different hypotheses on Alzheimer disease or the products. The corrosion process still is breast cancer (women) causing effects of alu- accelerated by chelating agents. This is the minium in antiperspirants and deodorants had reason why the interior surfaces of the con- all been disproved later on. Moreover, the tainers have to be coated and must be com- studies have neglected other components of pletely intact. Coating materials are epoxy or the deodorants such as the chlorophenol polyester resins. triclosan which is a bacteriostatic active agent. Aluminium fluoride which is used in tooth pastes for the caries prevention for instance EFSA (European Food Safety Authority), WHO also belongs to the soluble aluminium com- (World Health Organization) and FAO (Food pounds. Since tooth paste remainders are and Agriculture Organization of the United rinsed out, the aluminium absorption is low. Nations) have different concepts on the Apart from that, aluminium fluorides can be threshold value for the daily oral intake of alu- replaced by other fluorides in this case. minium. The most unfavorable value is defined Other aluminium compounds that mostly are with 1 mg/kg bodyweight per week. Converted used as cosmetic additives are non-soluble: to a bodyweight of about 60 kg for women it The following substances belong to this group: corresponds to 60 mg aluminium per week. The resorption of soluble aluminium however is • Bentonite, an aluminosilicate, forms in- extremely low since the ion forms insoluble organic gels with water which then are compounds with the proteins and acids of the the base material for the mixture of li- body such as for instance with the palmitic acid quid make-ups to which pigments, gly- of the skin barrier. This also applies for the cols and oils are added. mechanism of action in deodorants and the • Aluminium hydroxide serves for the astringent (dehydrating, hemostatic and anti- coating of titanium dioxide in sun pro- inflammatory) effects. The body releases alu- tection and make-up products. Coating minium via kidneys. In order to keep the re- impedes the radical formation in tita- sorption at a low level, the German Federal nium dioxide after radiation. There is a Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR (Bundesin- fluent passage between aqueous alu- stitut für Risikobewertung) advises the public to minium oxide (alumina) and aluminium refrain from applying deodorants on a clean- hydroxide. The chemical features are shaven skin. nearly identical though. • Aluminium stearate is a component of Alum – the substitute material powders and stabilizes W/O emulsions similar to magnesium stearate. Alu- The negative media reports have led to the fact minium stearate improves the viscosity that some of the manufacturers developed and of fatty and non-aqueous preparations. advertised aluminium chloride free antiperspi- Other salts as for instance Aluminium rants. So far, so good. Nevertheless, in cases Starch Octenyl Succinate (INCI; E where the preparations with the substitute 1452) have similar properties. alum (INCI: Potassium Aluminium Sulphate or • Argilla (INCI) is the Italian term for clay Potassium Alum) are advertised with the term which has already been described “0% aluminium chlorohdrate”, the customers above. might think that the products are aluminium • Kaolin is a component of pigment-con- free. A wrong conclusion though. Alum and the taining products such as lip sticks and therein contained aluminium sulphate have concealers as well as powders and been used in hemostatics, alum sticks and foundations. shaving pencils for a long time, particularly to • The sulphurous aluminosilicate ultra- treat minor lesions caused by wet shaving. marine is a blue pigment. • Sodium Potassium Aluminium Silicate Cosmetic applications (INCI) is a component of powders, eye shadows and concealer creams. Its In this context let’s focus on the multitude of composition is equivalent to the com- other products that contain aluminium. Not only position of natural Mica (INCI). Conse- beverage cans, but also aluminium tubes, alu- quently the optical features are similar minium dispensers or aluminium fingertip dis- too. pensers in the cosmetic field belong to this group for instance. Aluminium and aluminium Kosmetik Konzept KOKO GmbH & Co.KG • D-42799 Leichlingen • Moltkestr. 25 • www.dermaviduals.com • page 2 of 3 Aluminium – a much-discussed element page 3 of 3 • Zeolite and similar porous aluminosili- 523) and sodium aluminium phosphate cate particles serve for the incorpora- (E 541). tion of amorphous active agents and • Antacids 2, i.e. drugs that neutralise their use in nanodispersions. Particle stomach acid (medical drugs) may diameters of less than 100 nm have to contain aluminium magnesium silicate. be declared as nanomaterial. They are Antiseptic gargle solutions to treat in- non-biodegradable. fections in the mouth cavity – also medical drugs – contain diluted alu- …and thinking outside the box minium chloride solutions 2.