People and Nature on the Mountaintop A Resource and Impact Study of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park A Project funded by the Rocky Mountain Cooperative Ecosystems Study Unit, Rocky Mountain National Park, and Colorado State University. Ruth M. Alexander, Principal Investigator and Author, Professor of History, Colorado State University Catherine Moore, Graduate Research Assistant, Center for Public History and Archaeology, Colorado State University 2010 “Longs Peak is a citadel. I mean it’s a castle with defenses. And the Keyhole Route just so intricately snakes its way 270 degrees around the mountain, sneaking through the mountain’s defenses to get to the top.” – Mike Caldwell, 2009.1 0EOPLE AND .ATURE ON THE -OUNTAINTOP s A Resource and Impact Study of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park INTRODUCTION his study examines the history of Longs Peak from Longs may be formidable, but it is also a stunningly the 1920s to the present, providing a narrative beautiful peak widely visible to residents and visitors all Tthat traces over time the values and practices of along the northern Front Range. It captures the eye and the individuals who climbed the peak, their impact on its natural imagination. Rangers throughout the park’s history have and cultural resources, and the efforts of park rangers both recognized its powerful allure to those wishing to experience to facilitate climbing and protect the peak from harm.2 Longs simultaneously its aesthetic splendors and the challenges Peak is an icon of the Rocky Mountain West. It is one of of its granite fortifications. In the first years after Rocky Colorado’s tallest mountains, the only fourteener in Rocky Mountain National Park was founded in 1915, hundreds of Mountain National Park, and a peak that has for more than mountain enthusiasts annually climbed Longs Peak via non- a century inspired adventuresome men and women to test technical routes and, by the 1920s, the peak was attracting a themselves against its bouldered slopes, sheer rock faces, and growing number of ambitious rock climbers to its daunting severe alpine weather. Longs Peak is “a castle with defenses” East Face. During the Depression decade of the 1930s, nearly that does not readily open itself to intruders. Even the 2000 people climbed to the summit of Longs annually. The non-technical routes to its summit involve long stretches of popularity of the peak continued to grow such that, by the scrambling over unstable rock and along exposed ledges; the late 1960s, nearly 4000 climbers ascended to the summit via technical routes up its East Face and nearly vertical Diamond non-technical routes each year while hundreds of technical wall present expert rock climbers with some of the most climbers made their way up the East Face and onto the challenging alpine ascents in North America.3 Diamond, a nine-hundred foot wall of vertical cracks, chimneys, waterfalls, and overhanging rock. During the 1 Mike Caldwell, interview with Ruth M. Alexander, August, 12, 2009, 1970s approximately 7500 people summited the mountain transcript, ROMO Archives. each year and in recent decades the typical number of View of the East Face and Diamond on Longs Peak from 2 The author wishes to acknowledge the generous assistance of Cheri climbers making it to summit of Longs – via technical and Yost, Tim Burchett, Mark Magnuson, Jeff Connor, Mark Pita, and Ron Chasm Junction. This iconic view of the East Face has Thomas, all of Rocky Mountain National Park, in the preparation of this non-technical routes – has exceeded 10,000 annually. Many been encountered by the hundreds of thousands of visitors report. Thanks are also due to Maren Bzdek, Josh Weinberg, and Leslie thousands more climb part way up the peak each year, who have hiked the East Longs Peak trail to the mountain McCutchen , Center for Public History and Archaeology, Colorado over the past century. Image courtesy of Rocky Mountain State University, Fort Collins, Colorado. Cori Knudten, also with the National Park. CPHA, generously shared documents and insight from her own research Longs Peak has been spelled in two ways: Longs, and Long’s. In this on automobile tourism and Longs Peak. Jason Sibold, Department of study, I generally use Longs, the spelling that became most common Anthropology, Colorado State University, offered timely assistance in the over the course of the twentieth century. I use the peak’s alternative preparation of ArcGIS mapping. spelling when it appears that way in titles I reference or in passages 3 For those readers with orthographic interests, I wish to note that that I quote directly. 1 going to Chasm Junction, Chasm Lake, or the Boulderfield. While Longs offers exhilarating physical challenges Throughout the past century most people have climbed and stunning vistas to climbers, its alpine environment during the months of July and August when all routes to is fragile: rocks, plants, and wildlife are vulnerable to the peak’s summit are reasonably free of snow and ice. June damage wrought by the presence and action of humans. and September can also be busy months on Longs Peak, And in their own way, the spirited humans who climb depending on weather conditions. During the harsh winter Longs Peak are also fragile: they’re vulnerable to accidents months a smaller number of skilled ice climbers, skiers, and and lightning strikes, to high winds, rain and snow, to snowshoers have sought exhilaration on the peak’s ice walls unwelcome or unpleasant encounters with other climbers, and snowy slopes.4 and to the results of their own poor judgment and inadequate preparation. 4 The non-technical routes to the summit of Longs are classed as Because Longs Peak has been a destination of technical routes when snow and ice are present. Park rangers monitor enormous popularity but is also a site of extraordinary the peak to determine when to open these routes to non-technical climbers. The number of climbers on Longs Peak in any given year can grandeur and vulnerability – human and non-human – it never be determined with precision. Climbers who reach the top of offers an unusually important opportunity to study the Longs Peak may sign the summit register, but it’s likely that many don’t see the register, don’t bother to sign it, or find that no space remains on history of park managers’ efforts to balance the twofold its pages for more names to be added. Moreover, the summit registers, mission of the national parks. According to the National dating from about 1915 and maintained by the Colorado Mountain Club, Park Service Organic Act of 1916, the parks must “conserve offer only the names of those who reach the top of Longs, not the names of those who go only part way up the mountain. Many climbers don’t the scenery and the natural and historical objects and intend to go all the way to the summit; others hope to make it to the top the wild life therein”; but they must also “provide for the but turn back because of fatigue, bad weather, fear of heights, altitude sickness or injury. All non-technical climbers have long been encouraged enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means to sign registers at the various trailheads leading to Longs, but many do as will leave them unimpaired for future generations.”5 The not bother to do so, and park rangers have never tried to capture the National Park Service’s mandate “to protect and preserve” numbers of total climbers on Longs from the trailhead registers. extends simultaneously to the parks and to the people who Dr. George Wallace’s 2002-2004 study of the number of hikers using the East Longs Peak Trail to reach the summit of the peak revealed that visit them. from May 30 to October 14, 2002 an estimated 35,000 people hiked the The Organic Act imagined and sought to encourage East Longs Peak Trail, and approximately 9600 of those hikers reached the summit via the Keyhole route. See “Climbing the Longs Peak through wise management a mutually beneficial relationship Keyhole Route,” a one-page summary of Dr. Wallace’s project available between the undeveloped natural world and human society. at http://www.nps.gov/romo/parkmgmt/research_publications. It was signed into law at a time of growing concern among htm#CP_JUMP_366914. men such as Teddy Roosevelt, John Muir, Frederick Law The summit registers for the years up to 1945 are in the ROMO archives. Summit registers since 1945 are held in the Colorado Olmstead and others that urban industrial society was Mountain Club archives at the American Mountaineering Center, harmful to humans’ moral and physical well-being. Cities Golden, Colorado. Park staff (or Colorado Mountain Club volunteers) have not consistently tallied the figures in the summit registers, though and factories provided compelling evidence of human totals are available for some years in the park’s superintendent reports, energy, ambition, and ingenuity, but their filth, disorder, in the CMC Peak Register files, and in Paul W. Nesbit, Longs Peak: and suffering also offered proof of human imperfection. Its Story and a Climbing Guide, first published in 1946 and now in its eleventh edition. For this report, I have consulted both the eight edition of Nesbit’s book (Boulder, CO: Norman L. Nesbit, 1972) and the eleventh edition, revised and updated by Stan Adamson (Boulder, 5 The National Park Service Organic Act, 16. U.S. C.1. http://www.nps. CO: Grey Wolf Books, 2005). gov/legacy/organic-act.htm 0EOPLE AND .ATURE ON THE -OUNTAINTOP s A Resource and Impact Study of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park Americans assumed that European “high culture” offered a the promotion of human enjoyment.