The costumers QWtrterly vol. 10, No. 3 1u1! AUg! se1 1997 In Thts lSiUe chinese women's costume tn the ch'tng Dywty The Museum of Vintage Fashton Researching JRJ'anese Formal Dress what's New for 1932 A vtstt to chawton cottage Kyrsten Comoglio performs at the Arabian Nights Evening presented by the Greater Boy Area Costumel's Guild on July 13, 1996 In Son Francisco. Costume College '97 offers several classes for those interested in Middle Eastem costume and donee. Kim Wistos teaches Beginning Belly Donee and Mary Kuo teaches Belly Donee Jewelry. Both classes will be held on satu·doy afternoon. July 26. Belly Donee Bra and Belt taught by Azizol WJII be offered on Saturday morning. To help you put the finishing touch on your Middle Eastern costume, attend Janet Wilson Anderson's doss GlitZ and Glamour on Sundoyottemoon. July 27. April/May/June l997 Costumer's Quarterly The Costumer's Guild West, a Cllapter·of the International Costumer's Guild Invites You to At12nd Costume College 1997 ~ · Conference on Costuming Topics and Techniques Friday- Sunday, July 25- 27, 1997 /!~( Plaza Hotel, 7277 Valjean Avenue, Van Nuys, CA 91406 "-"\> ~ ... ,,.Topic: Costuming for the Performer: Theatre, Mardi Gras, Science Fiction and Fantasy Masquerade costuming Two full days of lectures, workshops and • demonstrations on costuming techniques and topics, taught by experienced costumers on the focus area, Medieval and Renaissance Clothing, Regency and Victorian Clothing, General Techniqu-:s, and more. Specific Classes include: "Costuming the Cirque de Solei!"; "Quick Changes and Shortcuts for the Stage"; "Carnival in Venice: The Costume is the Performer"; "Costumes, from Script to Stage"; "The T-Tunic, not just Medieval"; "The Modem Victorian Ball"; "Shapes of Underneath"; "Why We Wore What We Wore"; "Costuming ...,d the !ntc:met" ar.d rr.any, many more!! + Costume Merchandise Room- Patterns, books, trim, beads, jewelry, fabric, notions and more • Opens Friday evening for Early Bird shoppers • Membership in Costume College is not required to shop + Friday and Monday tours of the garment district and other places of interest + Friday Night Social and Dance Practice • Photos and videos from past Costume Cons, Costume Colleges, and Worldcons • Light refreshments • Meet the instructors And, Saturday Night The Time Traveler's Gala Dinner and Dance A sit-down dinner and a very special dance, featuring: + Four sets of dances through history • Each Set may include Medieval/Renaissance, Regency, Victorian, and/or 20th Century • Many of the dances reviewed and taught by our Dancing Masters + Formal Dress of any period, past, present, or future, requested Costumer's Quarterly April/May/June 1997 The Costumu's Quart.,rly cloGBACG 5214-F Diamond Heighrs Slvd./1320 San Francisco, CA 94131 Sally Norton, Editor Email: [email protected] Tel. 510.793.5895 The CoStumer's Quarterly is the official publication of The International Cos­ tumer's Guilcl a 50 1(cX3) non-profit organization. The Cosrumer's QUarterly is copyright 1997 by The International Costumer's Guild. All nghrs revert to he authors. photographers and anisrs upon publication. Copyrighted and ndemarked names, symbols or designs used herein are pro­ vided solely for til" fwtherance of costuming interestS and are not meant to infringe on tile copyright or !!'adem ark of the person. persons or company own­ ing the !l'ademark. The CQ acceptS unsolicited submissions. You may submit your article in any of these formars: typewritten, printed or disk (PC). No handwritten manuscriptS. All media will be returned if the submission includes a SASE. The CQ staff will not pay rerum postage. Articles and images may be submitted electronically to [email protected]. Images must be in.jpg format. When sending photographs. please include tile name(s) ofeveryone in the photo­ graph. if known_ and the name of the photographer. Chapter information and listings of Upcoming Events are due to the Editor on the following dates: Dec. 1. Mar. l. June l. Sept. l. Cover: Heather AAhuletta at the Lloyd Lake Temple. Golden Gate Park. San Francisco. Hea.ther is wearing a silk kimono with silk embroidery. Photo: Sally Norton. Advertising Rates: Full page S75, half page S40, one quarter page S20. Contact the Editor for more information. International Costumer's Guild Officers Joy Day, President PO Box 272, Dundee. OR 97115 Tel. 503.538.1617 (Even) Email: [email protected] Janet Wilson Anderson, Vice-President 3216 Villa Knolls Dr .. Pasadena. CA 91107 Tel. 8181.791.9195 Email: [email protected] Jana Keel.,r, Treasurer c/oGBACG 5214-F Diamond Heighrs Blvd. il 320, San Francisco. CA 94131 Tel. 415.469.7602. Email: [email protected] Zelda Gilbert, Corresponding Se<;r.,tary PO Box 94538, Pasadena. CA 91 I09 Tel. 818.907.5281 Email: [email protected] Katherine Jepson, Recording Se<:retary 19 Taraglen Court NE. Calgary, Alberta. CAN T3J2M6 Tel. 403.280.2874 Email: 73622.2716@compuserv~e:.c:o:m~:::;~~~~~~.:.i~~~~~~~~~~~: Table oif Contents Upcoming Activitites ........................................................................................................ 4 A Visit to Chawton by Catalina Hannan ........................................................................... 7 Whafs New for 1932 by May Piper Spear.:·····································································1 0 Women's Clothing in the Ch'ing Dynasty by Alison Kondo ....... ....................................... 16 Costumes from Turandot............................................................................................... 23 Researching Japanese Formal Wear by Susan Fatemi ................................................. 24 Shopping in Manhattan ................................................................................................. 28 The Museum of Vintage Fashion by Jana Keeler ........................................................... 30 CC>01 Report .................................................................................................................32 Summary of the ICG Annual Meeting......................... ................................................... 34 Come to St. Louis for CC16 ........................................................................................... 36 ICG Chapters ................................................................................................................38 Editor's Note: The interview with Susan Hum. Costumer for the Dave Letterman Show was announced to appear in this issue. Due to space limitations in this issue, the interview will appear in the next issue ot The Costumer's Quarterly. Costumer's Quarterly April/May/June 1997 limitations. $5 donation requested to defray room rental. Call Danine at 510.528.1153 before 9 pro. • The Lady of the Camellias July27 Bucconeer- Worldcon Hyatt Regency Alicante, Anaheim, CA. A August 5-9 collector's auction of rare antique and collectible Baltimore, Maryland. For more information write dolls featuring more than 300 dolls. Included in this to PO Box 314, Annapolis Junction, MD2070l. auction are French fashion dolls in extraordinary Web site http://www.access.digex.net/-balt98 costumes that the Divine Sarah herself might have worn. Presented by Theriault's. For a 112-page • LoneStarCon colour catalogue, call 1-800-638-0422. August 28-September 1 San Antonio, TX. For information, send email to • Arms and Armor [email protected] or call512.435.7446. August 25-26 Butterfield and Butterfield, 220 San Bruno Ave., MasqueS San Francisco. Catalogue available at the end of September 26-28 July. Call Jennifer Katanic for more informtion The fifth British Costume Convention. 1.415.861.7500 ext. 251. Sherringham Youth Hostel, Sherringham, Norfolk. For more information email Stratford Vintage Clothing & Jewelry Shoe [email protected] Sept. 27-28 Stratford, Ct. Produced by the Maven Co. Call 203.758.3880 for more information. Henley Royal Regatta July 2-6 Need someplace to wear a great hat? This is it ... • Southwest Costumers Guild Meeting an international rowing event that has July 20,10 am metamorphosed into an old-school occasion par Working meeting to build velvet cloaks for the excellence. Call 011-44-149-157-2153. annual fundraiser. Meet at the home of Randall Whitlock. Email for directions and more CGUK Mid Year Bash information to [email protected]. July 11-12 Held at the home of Mike and Maggie Percival. Costume College Saturday outing to Little Moreton Hall built July25-27 between 1450 and 1580. Either costume from this Airtel Plaza Hotel, Van Nuys, CA period or mundane clothing is acceptable. Cost Main Topic "Costuming for the Perf!Jrmer", Stage, includes dinner Friday and Saturday and breakfast Dance, Theatre, Mardi Gras, Science Fiction and Saturday and Sunday. Write to Mike Percival for Fantasy Masquerade Costuming. Visit the web site more information 4 Ednaston Court, Ednaston, at: http://members .aol.com/ZBLGilbert/cgw .html Ashboume, Derbyshire, DE6 3BA. Email or send email to: [email protected]. For [email protected] more information, call Kate Morgenstern at 310.941.5669. • PDQ Bach Festival July 12 The Bodice Rippers Masonic Lodge of San Mateo, CA. Celebrate the July 27, 1-5 pm glorious achievements of the Master of Broke er Mountain View, CA. First meeting of this new Baroque Music at this slightly twisted acadeU:ic ' sewing circle organized by Danine Cozzens festival hosted by the "Univ. of Southern North (GBACG member). RSVP required due to space Dakota at Hoople, Southern Northern California 4 Costumer's Quarterly